Category: Italian Cooking Techniques

PUNTARELLE Cooked with Tomatoes, Garlic and Anchovies

I ate Puntarelle cooked with tomatoes, garlic and anchovies as a side dish several years ago in Venice. This is the photo below:

Cooked puntarelle as presented in a restaurant in Venice

A Venetian inspiration for a simple pasta sauce or contorno

Venice Cannaregio, a view from our accomodation

Puntarelle are one of my favourite Italian vegetables, and because I now can find them in a stall at Queen Victoria Market I buy them. Although they are best known in the classic Roman salad of finely sliced shoots dressed with anchovy, garlic and olive oil, puntarelle can also be cooked to make an excellent contorno or a delicious pasta sauce.

One of a number of puntarelle salads I have made recently

A memory from Cannaregio, Venice

This dish is inspired by a meal I enjoyed in Cannaregio, one of Venice’s most authentic neighbourhoods, during my visit to the Venice Biennale in 2019. Away from the busiest tourist routes, Cannaregio still retains the atmosphere of a lived-in Venetian district, with local markets, small trattorie and canals that invite leisurely wandering.

 

‎⁨Guglie⁩/ Cannaregio ⁨Venezia⁩, ⁨Venice⁩

One of the dishes I ordered  at a restaurant was a simple plate of cooked puntarelle that was tossed with tomatoes and I remembered tasting, garlic and anchovies. It was uncomplicated cooking, but memorable because puntarelle were impossible to find in Melbourne or in Adwhere I have found many vegetables that I have had difficulties finding in Melbourne.

Another person ordered the salad. This had red radicchio in it as well as tomatoes and the usual anchovy and garlic dressing.

The puntarelle salad in Venice

The results were a simple recipe with remarkable flavour. Italian cooking often demonstrates that excellent dishes require very few ingredients. In this recipe, the slight bitterness of puntarelle, the sweetness of tomatoes and the savoury richness of anchovies create a balance that is both elegant and deeply satisfying. It is a reminder that some of the most memorable meals are also the simplest.

Puntarelle in Melbourne

Recently I have been making the most of the puntarelle available from Sophia’s stall at the Queen Victoria Market. Most often I prepare the traditional salad with an anchovy and garlic dressing and have made a few of these now.

The bunches sold in Melbourne, however, usually contain fewer leaves than those I have purchased in Italy. To prepare them as a cooked vegetable, I often combine the leaves with other bitter greens such as chicory, endive or cime di rapa, which have similar flavours and cooking qualities.

One of the bunches of puntarelle I have bought in Melbourne
This bunch of puntarelle bought in Melbourne has slightly more leaves

When I was staying in an Airbnb in Venice, I also bought a bunch of puntarelle and cooked both the spears and leaves together simply in extra virgin olive oil and garlic. The Venetian bunch was much leafier than those I generally find in Melbourne, making it particularly suitable for cooking.

This is the bunch of puntarelle I bought in Venice…. very leafy.

And recently I cooked puntarelle in much the same way that I cook cime di rapa for pasta or cicoria ripassata.

A simple contorno or pasta sauce

The version I remembered from Venice included tomatoes, so I decided to recreate it at home. Because good fresh baby tomatoes taste bland during winter, I used quality tinned baby tomatoes drained of their juice instead. Their sweetness balances the gentle bitterness of the puntarelle beautifully.

Drained tinned baby tomatoes

 As with all of the green leafy vegetables as I braise with garlic and anchovies and sometimes chilli, the anchovies melt into the olive oil, creating depth while the garlic provides the familiar flavour combination found throughout Italian regional cooking.

Braised/sauteed puntarelle are equally enjoyable served as a vegetable side dish or tossed through pasta. I prefer short pasta. Because the bunches I buy at the Queen Victoria Market  don’t contain many leaves and chicory, endive or cime di rapa are in season, I add more green leaves as well.

In this version I added cooked cime di rapa
RECIPE: PUNTARELLE Cooked with Tomatoes, Garlic and Anchovies
Ingredients
  • 1 bunch puntarelle, including shoots and leaves
  • Extra leaves of chicory, endive or cime di rapa if needed
  • 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 2-3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
  • 6 anchovy fillets (or more) in oil cut into smaller pieces
  • 250-300 g baby tomatoes (fresh when in season or good-quality tinned baby tomatoes)
  • ground black pepper or pinch of chilli flakes (optional)
  • salt if you need it.
For serving: 3-4 people
  • 350g pasta
  • Grated pecorino or toasted breadcrumbs toasted in extra virgin olive oil if desired. (Pecorino is stronger tasting than parmesan cheese and probably better suited)
Method
  • Prepare the puntarelle

Wash the puntarelle thoroughly. Separate the shoots and leaves and cut into bite-sized pieces. If the quantity of leaves is limited, add some chopped chicory, endive or cime di rapa. (*On this occasion I added some alredy cooked cime did rapa that I had in my fridge.)

Traditionally, pasta cooked with greens is blanched in salted boiling water for 2-3 minutes, then drained. If using the mixture as a sauce, reserve some of the cooking water. However, I prefer a modern method: sauté the greens directly without parboiling.

  • Make the sauce

Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan.

Add the anchovies and stir until they dissolve into the oil. Add the garlic until fragrant but not coloured.

Stir in the green leaves, toss around in the pan and when they wilt, add about a tablespoon of water, put on the lid and soften further.

Add the puntarelle spears and cook for a few minutes until softened but still vibrant.

(**I added the cooked left over cime di rapa after I cooked the puntarelle and tomatoes).

Add the tomatoes and cook for several minutes until they soften and release their juices. Season with black pepper and chilli flakes if using.

(**I added the cooked left over cime di rapa after I cooked the puntarelle and tomatoes).

Serve as a contorno – grilled fish or meat, roasted meats (nothing juicy).

To serve with pasta
  • Cook the pasta until al dente.
  • Transfer it directly to the pan with the puntarelle mixture, adding a little reserved pasta cooking water if necessary to create a silky sauce. Toss well and serve  plain or with grated pecorino or toasted breadcrumbs, according to your preference.

Puntarelle alla Romana and Cicoria Ripassata

CICORIA and Puntarelle (Chicory)

Puntarelle alla Romana and Cicoria Ripassata

Puntarelle alla Romana and Cicoria Ripassata are two classic Roman dishes that celebrate Italy’s fondness for bitter greens. Both are types of chicory.

Puntarelle

Puntarelle are a distinctive type of Italian chicory (cicoria catalogna), especially associated with Rome and the Lazio region, where they appear in markets during the cooler months.

Punterrelle, a type of chicory

I have always loved Italy’s bitter greens — cicoria, radicchio, indivia, cime did rape, dandelion  — flavours that many people initially find challenging, but which Italians value for their slight bitterness. Puntarelle belong firmly within this tradition.

The plant has long serrated leaves, but the prized part is the pale green central shoots that are tender, crunchy and slightly bitter.

The shoots of the Puntarelle

Their texture and flavour make them especially refreshing when eaten raw.

Puntarelle – vegetable with some of the outer leaves removed

Puntarelle, even more so than chicory, are not a common vegetable. I have only purchased Puntarelle twice in Australia, once from Carmel and Gus’s stall at the Queen Victoria Market and now I was delighted to find it at Daniel’s stall in the B Shed Shop 23-26. The stall is called Sophia’s.

The classic Roman preparation is Puntarelle alla Romana. The shoots are sliced finely into thin strips and soaked in iced water until they curl and become wonderfully crisp – a bit like curling celery.

Curled puntarelle after being soaked in iced water

They are then dressed simply with olive oil, garlic, anchovy and vinegar or lemon juice. The flavour is sharp, savoury and refreshing at the same time. Sometimes hard boiled eggs are added to the dressed salad and this makes this dish extra suitable as a starter.

The ingredients for the dressing

Like many Italian vegetables, very little is wasted. The outer leaves are often boiled or sautéed with olive oil, garlic and chilli in the style of cicoria ripassata, much like other bitter greens prepared throughout Italy.  I have added this recipe because I have mentioned that the course outer leaves are cooked and not wasted.

A mixture of  leafy greens can be added with the outer leaves of the Punterelle as there are likely insufficient greens to cook in this manner.

I particularly appreciate puntarelle because they reflect something essential about Italian cooking: the ability to transform a simple seasonal vegetable into something elegant through restraint and balance rather than complexity.

For those who enjoy vegetables such as dandelion greens, chicory or radicchio, puntarelle offer a similar bitterness but with a particularly crisp texture and elegant appearance. They pair beautifully with anchovies, citrus, capers, olives and robust olive oil — flavours that appear frequently in Roman and southern Italian cooking.

ROME’S BITTER GREENS

Puntarelle alla Romana

This is one of Rome’s most characteristic salads — crisp, bitter and refreshing, with the salty sharpness of anchovy balancing the chicory beautifully.

Ingredients
  • 1 bunch puntarelle (mine was one plant)
  • 4 -8 anchovy fillets
  • 1-2 garlic clove
  • 2–3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 1-2  tablespoon white wine vinegar or lemon juice
  • Freshly ground black pepper
Preparing the Puntarelle

Separate the pale inner shoots from the outer leaves. Save the small leaves to add to the salad.

Slice the shoots finely into thin strips. Traditionally they are cut very thinly so they curl easily.

Place the strips into a bowl of iced water for about 30 minutes. This helps them curl and become crisp.

Preparing the Dressing

Traditionally, anchovies and garlic are crushed together to form a paste. Add olive oil and vinegar or lemon juice and mix well.

Alternatively, the garlic can be crushed and placed in a jar with the oil and lemon juice. The anchovies are then cut into small pieces and mixed together just before dressing the salad. I prefer to do this as it allows for a more visual presentation. 

The dressing: Chopped anchovies and a mixture of extra virgin olive oil, squeezed garlic, and lemon juice
Assembling the Salad

Drain the puntarelle thoroughly and dress just before serving.

Taste and adjust seasoning carefully — the anchovies are already salty.

Punterelle alla Romana – salad

The salad is excellent with grilled fish, roasted meats or simply with bread especially when there are boiled eggs in the salad.

 We had it as an accompaniment to a seafood Paella.

Cicoria Ripassata

This is one of the simplest and most satisfying ways Italians cook bitter greens. The word ripassata refers to the greens being “passed again” through the pan after boiling.

Cicoria – Chicory
Ingredients
  • 1 large bunch cicoria or other bitter greens including the outer leaves of the Puntarelle
  • 2–3 garlic cloves, sliced
  • Chilli flakes or fresh chilli to taste
  • Extra virgin olive oil
  • Salt
Cooking the Greens
  1. Wash the greens thoroughly and trim any tough stems.
  2. Boil in salted water until tender — usually about 10–15 minutes depending on the maturity of the greens.
  3. Drain well and gently squeeze out excess water. Chop roughly if the leaves are large.
  4. Heat generous olive oil in a frying pan.
  5. Add the garlic and chilli and cook briefly until fragrant, but do not allow the garlic to burn.
  6. Add the greens and sauté for several minutes so they absorb the flavours of the oil.
  7. Taste for salt and serve warm or at room temperature.

In Rome this dish is often served alongside grilled sausages or roasted meats, especially pork – the bitterness counteracts the fatty nature of the meat.

CICORIA and Puntarelle (Chicory)

CICORETTA CON SALSICCIA (Chicory with fresh pork sausage)

ITALIAN BITTER LEAF SALAD

WANT NOT WASTE NOT- Chicken livers and chicory, twice

CASSATA SICILIANA: SBS ITALIAN EASTER RECIPE

When I was asked to share an Easter recipe for SBS Italian Radio, I immediately chose cassata Siciliana — a dessert that truly represents Sicily, its history, flavours, and identity.

For the occasion, I prepared the recipe along with some notes in Italian to accompany the radio discussion, aiming to convey not just the steps, but also the cultural meaning behind this traditional dessert.

In this post, I have also included some photos of the cassata being made. These are not on the SBS website, but they help to show the process more clearly.

The remainder of the post is in Italian and I was interviewed by Massimiliano Gugole from SBS Radio Italian.

IN ITALIAN

Quando mi è stato chiesto di condividere una ricetta di Pasqua per SBS Italian Radio, ho scelto subito la cassata siciliana — un dolce che rappresenta bene la Sicilia sapori — la sua storia, i suoi sapori e la sua identità.

Per l’occasione ho preparato la ricetta e alcune note in italiano per accompagnare la conversazione in radio, cercando di trasmettere non solo i passaggi, ma anche il significato culturale di questo dolce tradizionale

In questo post ho aggiunto anche alcune foto della preparazione della cassata. Non sono presenti sul sito di SBS, ma aiutano a vedere meglio i passaggi.

****If you would like to listen to the interview and discussion in Italian on SBS Radio, here is the link:
90.avif

La cassata siciliana, nella ricetta di Marisa Raniolo Wilkins

https://www.sbs.com.au/language/italian/it/podcast-episode/la-cassata-siciliana-nella-ricetta-di-marisa-raniolo-wilkins/szz86479i 

Notes – Per parlare sulla radio

Cassata Siciliana — Tradizione e Gusto
  • La cassata siciliana è uno dei dolci più rappresentativi della Sicilia, soprattutto nel periodo di Pasqua. È un dolce ricco, scenografico, che racchiude storia, cultura e tradizione.
  • La cassata è un’opera culinaria che testimonia secoli di storia.  Dalle influenze fenicie, che introdussero le mandorle, all’apporto arabo, che portò zucchero, frutta secca, marzapane e agrumi, e al contributo spagnolo, che portò il pan di Spagna. I monsù, cuochi francesi al servizio delle famiglie aristocratiche siciliane, ne perfezionarono la presentazione, mentre le suore nei conventi custodirono e tramandarono le ricette tradizionali.
  • Alla base troviamo il pan di Spagna, soffice e leggermente inumidito con un liquore.
  • Il cuore della cassata è la ricotta, preferibilmente di pecora, lavorata con zucchero fino a diventare una crema liscia e delicata.’è un gesto semplice, ma molto significativo, che appartiene alla tradizione della cassata: la ricotta non si mescola soltanto — si passa al setaccio.
  • Alla ricotta si aggiungono piccoli pezzi di cioccolato fondente, pistacchi e scorze di agrumi canditi.
  • Il dolce viene poi assemblato in uno stampo: il pan di Spagna riveste base e lati, si riempie con la crema di ricotta, si chiude e si lascia riposare in frigorifero per una notte.
  • Il giorno dopo si sforma e si ricopre con la pasta reale/il marzapane, spesso di colore verde chiaro, e si decora con frutta candita.
  • La cassata, in tutte le sue varianti, `e un emblema di celebrazione. Le pasticcerie siciliane sono rinomate per la loro maestria nella preparazione e decorazione delle cassate. 
Cassata Siciliana — Ricetta Tradizionale
Consigli:

La cassata si prepara al meglio in due giorni. Si assembla il dolce il giorno prima e si lascia riposare in frigorifero per tutta la notte affinché si compatti. Anche il pan di Spagna beneficia di essere preparato in anticipo.

Note sugli Ingredienti

Ricotta

Usare ricotta soda e ben scolata, preferibilmente di pecora, naturalmente più dolce e saporita.

Spesso viene venduta in forme intere e tagliata al momento — questa è la migliore.

Evitare la ricotta confezionata in vaschetta, generalmente troppo acquosa e poco saporita. Se non avete alternative, è consigliabile scolarla per tutta la notte.

Per un ripieno più ricco, si può aggiungere un po’ di panna densa durante la lavorazione.

Frutta Candita

La frutta candita è conservata in uno sciroppo zuccherino che ne mantiene la morbidezza e ne intensifica il sapore. (Si chiama anche glacé)

Se possibile, utilizzare scorze di agrumi canditi di buona qualità oppure fette intere di arancia candita, invece della comune frutta candita mista.

Il cedro ha un ruolo importante nella pasticceria siciliana. Coltivato in Sicilia e in Calabria, si riconosce per la buccia spessa, dal verde al giallo.

Liquore

Usare secondo il proprio gusto. Alcune opzioni:

  • Liquori all’arancia: Cointreau, Grand Marnier
  • Liquore al mandarino: Mandarine Napoléon
  • Altri: Marsala dolce, Amaretto, Strega, Maraschino
Le foto: Come preparare la cassata

Ci sono tre parti da preparare:

  • Il pan di Spagna
  • Il marzapane
  • Il ripeno

 

Il pan di Spagna
Il ripieno – ricotta,  zucchero, cioccolato , pistacchi, scorze d’agrumi candite
Il pan di Spagna tagliato in quattro strati. Il marzapane steso tra due pellicole
Il marzapane, di due colori – naturale e verde. La confettura per attaccare il pan di Spagna

PREPARAZIONE DELLO STAMPO

Lo stampo foderato, il pan di Spagna -uno stato di sotto, e due strati per rivestire i lati. L’ultimo strato di sopra per coprire il ripieno.
L’ultimo strato di pan di Spagna per coprire il ripieno
Con un peso di sopra
La cassata sformata è ricoperta da una glassa di marzapane. La confettura viene utilizzata per facilitare l’adesione del marzapane al pan di Spagna
Quadretti del marzapane verde per l’applicazione sui lati
Quasi!
Eccola!

**Sul blog All Things Sicilian And More ci sono parecchi post della Cassata con altre foto, ma scritte in Inglese.

EASTER IN SICILY: Faith, Spring, History and Cassata

CASSATA ( Post no. 2) Calls for a celebration!!!

SICILIAN CASSATA and MARZIPAN AT EASTER (Food and Culture in Sicily, La Trobe University)

SICILIAN CASSATA and some Background (perfect for an Australian Christmas)

RICETTA PER LA CASSATA SICILIANA ( SBS )

Ingredienti

Come la maggior parte delle ricette italiane, le quantità degli ingredienti non contano davvero. I cuochi si affidano al gusto, all’occhio e al tatto.

Ripieno di Ricotta

  • 700 g – 800g ricotta fresca (preferibilmente di pecora)
  • 120 g zucchero semolato
  • 60–100 g cioccolato fondente, tritato
  • 100 g pistacchi, tritati
  • 60–100 g scorze di agrumi canditi (arancia, limone, cedro)
  • ¼ cucchiaino vaniglia (o pasta di vaniglia)
  • ¼ cucchiaino cannella

Per Assemblare

  • Circa 450 g pan di Spagna, fatto in casa (questo il peso quando acquistato nei negozi commerciali
  • Pasta reale (marzapane) per copertura
  • Frutta candita per decorare
  • ½ tazza (o più) di confettura di albicocche
  • ½–¾ tazza di liquore (o più, a piacere)

Pan di Spagna

Preparare 1–3 giorni prima.

Ingredienti

  • 5 uova
  • 120 g zucchero
  • 100 g farina setacciata
  • Scorza di limone e/o vaniglia
  • Burro per lo stampo

Procedimento

  1. Montare i tuorli con lo zucchero fino a ottenere un composto chiaro e cremoso.
  2. Montare gli albumi a neve ferma.
  3. Incorporare delicatamente gli albumi al composto di tuorli.
  4. Unire la farina setacciata e gli aromi.
  5. Versare in uno stampo imburrato e cuocere a forno moderato per circa 40 minuti, fino a doratura.
  6. Lasciare raffreddare completamente prima di tagliare.

Ripieno di Ricotta

  1. Lavorare la ricotta con lo zucchero fino a ottenere una crema liscia. (In alternativa, sciogliere lo zucchero in poca acqua per ottenere uno sciroppo, lasciarlo raffreddare e poi unirlo alla ricotta
  2. Aggiungere:
    • vaniglia
    • cannella
    • un goccio di liquore (facoltativo)
  3. Incorporare:
    • cioccolato
    • pistacchi
    • frutta candita

Mescolare delicatamente.

Pasta Reale (Marzapane)

Ingredienti

  • 500 g mandorle pelate e macinate finemente
  • 300 g zucchero a velo
  • 1 albume
  • Vaniglia q.b.
  • Un pizzico di sale
  • Qualche goccia di colorante verde

Procedimento

  1. Montare leggermente l’albume con il sale fino a renderlo spumoso.
  2. Aggiungere la vaniglia.
  3. Incorporare gradualmente mandorle e zucchero, impastando fino a ottenere un composto liscio ed elastico.
  4. Regolare la consistenza:
    • aggiungere mandorle o zucchero se troppo morbido
    • aggiungere poca acqua se troppo duro
  5. Avvolgere nella pellicola e conservare in frigorifero.

Quando sarete pronti per coprire la cassata:

Facoltativo:

Dividere in due parti e colorarne una di verde, oppure è decorato a larghe strisce verdi e del colore naturale del marzapane.

Stendere il marzapane tra due fogli di carta da forno.

Preparazione dello Stampo

  • Foderare uno stampo rotondo (da 25–30 cm) con pellicola o alluminio.
  • Tagliare il pan di Spagna in 4 strati.
  • Rivestire anche i lati dello stampo con le fette di pan di Spagna, utilizzando confettura se necessario per fissarle.

Assemblaggio della Cassata

  1. Disporre uno strato sul fondo e spennellare leggermente con confettura di albicocche.
  2. Inumidire con un po’ di liquore.
  3. Riempire lo stampo con il composto di ricotta e livellare.
  4. Coprire con l’ultimo strato di pan di Spagna.
  5. Inumidire leggermente con liquore.
  6. Coprire e porre un leggero peso sopra.

Mettere in frigorifero per tutta la notte.

Copertura e Decorazione

(Da fare il giorno del servizio)

  1. Sformare la cassata.
  2. Spalmare uno strato sottile di confettura di albicocche.
  3. Coprire con la pasta reale stesa.
  4. Decorare con frutta candita.

Mantenere in frigorifero fino al momento dell’uso.

THE SUBTLE POWER OF VINEGAR: HOW ITALIANS BALANCE FLAVOUR

The subtle power of vinegar and how Italians balance flavour is something I appreciate in my own kitchen. Beyond acidity and preservation, vinegar brings balance, gives structure to a dish, and harmony in everyday cooking.Italian cuisine has always been attentive to relationships on the palate: fat is balanced with acidity, sweetness is moderated by bitterness and warm dishes are often refreshed with a sharp element. I often deglaze pans with vinegar. A small splash in a warm pan releases an aroma and sharpness that immediately awakens the senses. And it smells fantastic!

Lemon brightens flavours and highlights bitterness, but vinegar behaves differently. It softens and steadies strong tastes, preventing them from becoming overpowering. Consequently, selecting the appropriate vinegar is a deliberate decision that is part of the cooking process.

In my pantry you will find several types of vinegar —  commercial red wine vinegar, white wine vinegar, champagne vinegar, sherry vinegar and often homemade red wine vinegar. Over time I have learned to select each based on the dish’s requirements rather than habit. Understanding these differences is one of those small shifts that moves cooking from a mechanical to a thoughtful. process.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT VINEGAR

Red wine vinegar

Red wine vinegar is my preferred choice. Its consistent sharpness makes it a reliable ingredient for vinaigrettes, cooked vegetables, legume salads and the sweet-and-sour notes of agrodolce.

Its bold flavour is precisely its strength, allowing it to stand alongside robust ingredients without overpowering them.

White Wine Vinegar

White wine vinegar is lighter and less tannic than red wine vinegar, offering acidity without weight or colour. The acidity is expressed subtly.

I use it when working with tender leaves, fresh herbs, cucumber or zucchini and occasionally for deglazing fish or seafood when I prefer not to use wine. It is also suitable for some ceviche-style preparations, particularly for stronger-tasting fish, making it more suitable for lemon.

It also blends well into emulsified sauces such as mayonnaise or aioli, where lemon might otherwise dominate.

Sherry Vinegar

Sherry vinegar adds complexity rather than sharpness. A few drops are often sufficient.

I frequently drizzle it over simply roasted vegetables such as mushrooms, pumpkin, eggplant and beetroot, allowing their natural sweetness to complement its savoury depth. It is equally suitable for pan sauces for more strongly flavoured poultry such as duck or quail.

Sherry vinegar is the one I use when I want warmth rather than brightness.

Champagne Vinegar 

Champagne vinegar possesses a restrained acidity. It is a subtle taste that supports rather than dominates.

I use it for soft tasting ingredients like lettuces, dishes with delicate herbs such as tarragon or chervil and salads that include fruit, like oranges, peaches and pears, where excessive sharpness would disrupt the balance. Champagne vinegar preserves elegance rather than overwhelming it.

Understanding Balsamic Vinegar

 I am very careful with Balsamic vinegar and use it very sparingly because most varieties that are available are overly sweet and synthetic. Having tasted different batches of Balsamic Vinegar in Modena some years ago I  know what I should be tasting!

Proper Balsamic Vinegar is aged. As with much of Italian cooking, its depth is shaped more by time than by intervention. No additives.

The most revered style is traditional balsamic, produced in Modena or Reggio Emilia from slowly cooked grape must and aged in a succession of wooden barrels for at least twelve years, often far longer. As the seasons pass and the liquid gently concentrates, it becomes darker, denser, and quietly complex. Only a few drops are needed — on Parmigiano Reggiano, ripe strawberries, or a finished risotto — where it deepens rather than dominates. And it is very expensive so one is frugal.

Most bottles encountered today are Aceto Balsamico di Modena IGP, is made from a blend of wine vinegar and grape must and matured for a shorter time. When well made, it is excellent to use in everyday cooking — vinaigrettes, used in agrodolce, or stirred through pan juices.

At the lower end, the type that is sold in supermarkets and labelled as Balsamic … and made in Italy…maturity is sometimes suggested rather than earned. Caramel for colour, thickeners for viscosity, and added sweetness offers quick roundness. Do the ingredients  listed mention grape must? Not likely. And how many additives are listed, and is the information correct?

For this reason, many Italian cooks keep two bottles — one for daily cooking, the other patiently aged, reserved for the final moment when a dish calls for depth and quiet resonance. And they are willing to pay for it .

Homemade Red Wine Vinegar 

Making homemade vinegar is a lesson in patience.

Its production is always slightly unpredictable, influenced by time, temperature and the vitality of its mother. When I am successful, in making it, the vinegar is softer and more layered than most commercial versions.

I treat it with the same respect as a high-quality extra virgin olive oil, often saving it for special salads or using it as a finishing touch, particularly with bitter leaves such as radicchio, chicory and endive.

When I have excess red wine left over, I begin another batch. Fermentation has its own schedule, and some jars take longer than anticipated. The waiting period becomes an integral part of the process.

For those who prefer not to make their own vinegar, a reputable delicatessen will often stock beautifully aged vinegars that are well worth purchasing.

RECIPE: A Traditional Method for Homemade Red Wine Vinegar

Rustic, reliable, and close to how vinegar is still produced in many homes across Italy and France.

Ingredients

  • 750 ml–1 litre red wine (avoid heavily sulphated wines)
  • 250–500 ml unpasteurised vinegar containing a live mother
  • 1 small piece of rustic bread

Equipment

  • Wide-mouth glass jar or crock
  • Breathable cloth or cheesecloth
  • Rubber band or string
  • Wooden spoon

Method

  1. Prepare the wine: Aim for an alcohol level of roughly 6–10%.
  1. Add the starter culture: Pour the wine into the container, add the live vinegar, and drop in the bread — traditionally used to provide nutrients and encourage microbial activity.
  1. Aerate and cover: Stir gently. Cover with cloth — oxygen is essential. Never seal airtight. When I have  used a crockpot I have also used a smaller lid to keep the mother down and then covered it with gauze. I have never had problems with vinegar flies, but maybe I am just lucky!

  1. Ferment: Store somewhere warm (18–27°C), dark, and undisturbed. Within 1–3 weeks, a gelatinous film — the mother — should form, and the aroma will shift from wine to tangy vinegar.
  1. Taste and monitor: Begin tasting after four weeks. Most batches take 4–8 weeks, sometimes longer.
  1. Finish: Remove the bread and bottle, or age further for deeper flavour. Always reserve some mother to start the next batch.

Practical Tips

  • Avoid metal lids touching the liquid.
  • Do not disturb the mother once formed.
  • Top up gradually with wine to create a continuous culture.
  • Discard if fuzzy mould appears; a smooth, jelly-like mother is normal.

Bitterness, Balance, and the Italian Table

Italian cuisine embraces bitterness — radicchio, chicory, scarola, and Belgian endive (witlof) are favourites in my kitchen.

Whether served raw or braised, vinegar is the quiet mediator that softens bitterness and creates equilibrium.

The following recipes reflect northern Italian traditions, where radicchio is celebrated.

A head of Firm Radicchio.

Here are a couple of recipes for radicchio.

Radicchio Agrodolce (Sweet–Sour Radicchio)

A classic example of bitterness balanced with acid and sweetness, widely associated with the Veneto region.

Firm Radicchio cut into wedges.

Ingredients

  • 2 heads radicchio, quartered
  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 small red or white sliced onion or spring onion
  • 2 tbsp red wine vinegar
  • 1 tsp sugar or honey (I often use 1 tbsp balsamic and 1 tbsp red wine vinegar instead)
  • Salt and black pepper

Optional: toasted or candied walnuts, pine nuts, raisins, or currants.

Method

  1. Heat olive oil in a wide pan.
  2. Sauté onion until soft and lightly sweet. If using spring onion sauté less (I overcooked mine)
  3. Add radicchio cut-side down and cook until lightly charred.
  4. Add vinegar and sweetener; toss gently.
  5. Cook for 2–3 minutes until slightly wilted but still structured.
  6. Season and serve warm.
Alternative Charred Version of Radicchio Agrodolce 

For a deeper flavour:

  1. Sear the wedges vigorously without moving them.
  2. Turn once.

  1. Deglaze with vinegar or a vinegar-balsamic mixture.
  2. Add a touch of honey and butter, basting the radicchio  on both sides in the pan until glossy or removing it before making the glaze.
Glaze for Cooked Radicchio.

Plating Tip: Serve wedges whole, slightly overlapped, with glaze spooned toward the core for visual structure.

Candied Walnuts (Perfect for Salads with bitter leaves)

Crisp, lightly glossy, and balanced — never overly sweet.

Ingredients

  • 1 cup walnut halves
  • 1 tbsp sugar
  • 1 tbsp butter or olive oil
  • Pinch of salt
  • About a small teaspoon of wine vinegar

Method

  1. Toast walnuts lightly in a dry pan until fragrant.
  2. Add fat, sugar, and salt. Once the begin to melt add the vinegar.
  3. Stir continuously until caramelised.
  4. Spread on baking paper and cool completely.
Radicchio Salad with Balsamic and Parmigiano

Another northern Italian classic — simple, structured, and refined.

Ingredients

  • Radicchio leaves, torn
  • Parmigiano Reggiano shavings
  • Toasted walnuts (optional)
  • Extra virgin olive oil
  • Good-quality red wine vinegar, balsamic, or both
  • Salt and black pepper

Method

  1. Toss radicchio with olive oil, salt, and pepper.
  2. Add vinegar gradually, tasting until the balance feels right — acidity should support, not dominate.

Plating Suggestions

  • Use a large plate and leave some negative space.
  • Build height rather than spreading the salad flat.
  • Add contrasting textures such as shaved fennel, citrus segments, firm pears sliced, nuts and fried capers. I also use firm peaches or vanilla persimmons, although these are not traditional ingredients. However, cuisine evolves and even traditional cuisine changes.
  • Finish with a final gloss of olive oil and intentionally placed shaved Parmigiano.

These small decisions/ finishing touches elevate salads from rustic home cooking to quietly sophisticated.

Other Radicchio recipes:

LASAGNA /LASAGNE. RECIPE FOR LASAGNA AL RADICCHIO

RISOTTO made with Radicchio

RISOTTO AL RADICCHIO ROSSO

COOKED RADICCHIO

Pan fried radicchio with pickled pears, walnuts, beetroot and gorgonzola

BIGOLI NOBILI (Bigoli pasta with red radicchio, borlotti and pork sausages)

Agro Dolce:

TONNO AL AGRO DOLCE; Sweet and sour tuna, Sicilian; ALBACORE TUNA

PEPERONATA(SICILIAN SWEET AND SOUR PEPPERS)

Sweet and Sour Peppers.

THE MANY VERSIONS OF CAPONATE and grilled food

Eggplant caponata.
Sweet and Sour Pumpkin.

Sicilian Pumpkin with vinegar, mint, sugar and cinnamon

ACETO DI VINO FATTO IN CASA (Home Made Wine Vinegar)

CHICKPEAS and simple food

Let’s make the most of simple, healthy food — chickpeas.

We do not need perfectly stocked pantries to cook satisfying meals. Some of the best dishes come from using what we already have on hand and allowing simple ingredients to shine.

I always keep chickpeas and other pulses in my pantry and freezer. I soak dried pulses overnight, change the water, add bay leaves, or rosemary, or sage, or thyme and then cook them slowly over low heat.THe different herbs will impart a different taste.

Once cooked, I transfer the surplus into glass jars, cover them with their cooking liquid and store them in the freezer. They are nutritious, economical and always ready to use.

Chickpeas have long been central to Mediterranean cooking, especially in Italy, where they appear in soups, pasta dishes and rustic contorni. They are humble ingredients, but deeply satisfying.

Here are  some very different dishes using chickpeas — both simple, improvised and full of flavour.

Would these dishes belong to particular Italian regions? Perhaps not directly. But the ingredients and cooking methods certainly sit comfortably within Italian and Mediterranean traditions. The cauliflower pasta especially feels connected to the type of food my mother would have cooked — practical, seasonal and deeply nourishing.

Pasta with Cauliflower and Chickpeas

This pasta dish came together with ingredients I already had at home: chickpeas, cauliflower, passata, herbs and chilli.

The herb I used was nepitella, which grows abundantly on my balcony at this time of year. Oregano, basil, thyme, marjoram or parsley would all work beautifully.

The cauliflower was the common white variety — inexpensive, easy to find and a vegetable that keeps well in the fridge. I prefer spring onions to regular onions for their gentler flavour, but either can be used. There was also garlic and homemade stock involved, because there are always jars of broth in my freezer.

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The method was straightforward and very Italian in spirit. I began with extra virgin olive oil, garlic and spring onion gently sautéed. The cauliflower followed, then stock, herbs, seasoning and just enough passata to lightly colour the dish. Everything simmered slowly until tender and fragrant.

I cooked the short pasta separately, though I could easily have added extra stock and cooked the pasta directly in the sauce. I wanted this to be a softer, slightly brothy pasta dish — comforting and rustic.

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Chickpeas with pasta.

Chickpeas with Saffron, Mushrooms and Eggplant

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Chickpeas, saffron, mushrooms and eggplants.

The second dish was more improvised.There is no traditional name because it simply evolved from what I had in the fridge at the time. That is often how good home cooking begins.

I sautéed spring onion in olive oil, added whole mushrooms, then chickpeas and strips of eggplant. Saffron went in for warmth and colour, along with marjoram from the balcony garden. The liquid was the chickpea cooking broth itself — rich, earthy and too good to waste.

Before serving, I added fresh mint for brightness.

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Cooking with What We Have

Being creative in my kitchen gives me much pleasure. One of the reasons I enjoy camping or cooking in Airbnbs while travelling is that I cannot rely on having every ingredient or every kitchen tool available. There is creativity in limitation.

You adapt. You improvise. You cook with what is there.

And often those meals become the most memorable.

I MUST LIKE CHICKPEAS – RECIPES:

CECI (CHICKPEAS) IN SICILIA: Cucina Povera

PASTA con cavolofiore, salsicce di maiale e ceci (pasta with cauliflower, pork sausages and chickpeas)

MUSSELS WITH CHICKPEAS

VESPERS and a celebration of chickpeas in BACCALÀ CON CECI alla fiorentina (Salt Cod with Chickpeas as cooked in Florence)

CHICKPEAS SOUP WITH WILD FENNEL (Minestra di ceci con finocchio, erba selvatica)

TORTELLINI, how made in Bologna

Tortellini, and how they are made in Bologna. This post will need very  little explanation – the photos tell it all!

Tortellini are everywhere in Bologna. The small tortellini (made with chicken and veal) are eaten in broth or with a cream dressing and grated Parmesan on top.

This woman worked quickly and drew much attention. Observe the size of the squares of pasta. Imagine the dexterity of stuffing and folding the pasta and shaping them into the shape of bellybuttons.

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This woman worked quickly and drew much attention.

Observe the size for the tortellini for broth.

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The egg pasta is rolled ultra thin and cut into small rectangular shapes. it took so much concentration even in the hands of a professional.

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cutting the pasta into small squares.

The filling is close by; the most common fillings are the roast chicken and veal or a mixture of mortadella, roast meats and parmigiano. Nutmeg and marjoram are also favourite flavourings in Bologna.

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So amazing, such small tortellini!

MARINETTI Filippo Tommaso, futurist, frequented a bar in Bologna

DELVING INTO EGG PASTA

EMIGLIA ROMAGNA and their love of stuffed pasta

SICILIAN SUMMER SOUP – made with tendrils of a Sicilian squash

This information provides instructions for making a summer Sicilian soup using a Sicilian squash, the tendrils and leaves of the vine.

The tendrils of the Sicilian squash are called tenerumi and this soup is particularly easy to make if you have a Sicilian friend who grows this vegetable in her garden. I have bought some of this squash at a farmers’ market but it is only available for a short time in the season.

The squash is a long, light green trumpet-shaped squash. It is called a zucca lunga (long squash) or zucca trombetta (trumpet squash) or zucca serpente (serpent squash). she had no squash available  but she knew I had some zucchini to replace the squash, and the soup tasted delicious.

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simple ingredient_ tendrils with leaves, zucchini, basil leaves, garlic and tomatoes.

It is a summer dish, and red tomatoes, a little garlic (optional) and basil are also added ingredients. Broken spaghetti are used to thicken the soup…when in Sicily you are unlikely to eat soup without pasta.

PROCESS

Strip and use the soft tendrils and soft leaves off the long, hard curly stems.

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the tendrils and leaves stopped from the hard stalk.

Place the leaves and tendrils ( and some squash or sliced zucchini)  in some boiling water with a little salt.

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When they are nearly cooked add some broken spaghetti.

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These vegetables are cooked separately.

The tomatoes are left cut in half. Soften the tomatoes in a little extra virgin olive oil with some garlic and basil. It is just a tomato salsa!

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The half tomatoes- cut made into a summer salsa.

Add the tomato mixture on top of the pasta. Drizzle on some good extra virgin olive oil, more basil leaves and some chilli flakes if this is your want.

You will find more photos (including the zucca lunga) and information about this recipe and ingredients on previous posts:

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The Sicilian summer soup called Minestra di Tenerumi.

ZUCCA LUNGA SICILIANA – long, green variety of squash

MINESTRA ESTIVA CON ZUCCA LUNGA SICILIANA, Sicilian Summer soup made with the long, green variety of squash

TENERUMI (and I did not have to go to SICILY to buy it). The Melbourne Showgrounds Farmers Market

KOHLRABI and TENERUMI, shared between cultures of Sicily and Vietnam

MINESTRA DI TENERUMI (Summer soup made with the tendrils of a Sicilian squash)

 

HAPUKA(fish)WITH SICILIAN FLAVOURS

I used Hapuka cutlets to cook with Sicilian Flavours, but any fish can be cooked in the same way.

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Hapuka fish cutlets.

The Sicilian flavours are simple – grated lemon peel, lemon juice, anchovies, fresh mint and parsley.

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Flavours – Anchovies, parsley and lemon.Roasted peppers as a side plate.

Procedure

Cut anchovies into small pieces.

Grate some lemon peel and squeeze some lemon juice.

Chop parsley and mint. Use greater amount of parsley. You will need a double small pile of the herbs: one for pan-frying and the other mixed with the lemon peel for decoration and flavour.

Fry one side of the fish, then flip it and top with chopped parsley and mint and anchovies. Cook the other side until desired, as it’ll be flipped again briefly.

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Slices of pan fried fish with Sicilian flavours. Notice the vibrant fresh colour of the herbs.

The anchovies should have softened. Turn the fish over and season the other side with salt and lemon juice. Evaporate the lemon juice and the fish is ready.

Scatter with more chopped parsley and mint mixed with the grated lemon peel for colour and flavour.

So Simple and so Tasty!

FISH STUDDED WITH FLAVOURS

COOKING CLASS, SMALL FISHY BITES, MERCATO

FILETTI DI SARDINE CON VINO E LIMONE (Sardines with wine)

These two recipes for Filetti Di Sardine Con Vino E Limone  –  Sardines With Wine And Lemon  – use the same ingredients but differ in preparation. One recipe involves sautéing the sardines while the other bakes them. I prefer to use cleaned whole sardines when baking.

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I love sardines. Being a small fish they cook quickly and are still considered by some as being exotic.

In both recipes whole fish or fillets can be used. The sardines as fillets (no bones) can be eaten on fresh or toasted bread and makes a good starter. I like to top them with a little harissa when I do this (mixing of cultures here). However, the first time I tried Harissa was in Augusta, Sicily.

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INGREDIENTS
500 g of fresh sardines (whole or fillets), ½ cup extra virgin olive oil, 1 teaspoon of fresh parsley and ½ tsp of dry oregano, 1-2 cloves of garlic chopped finely, salt and pepper to taste, juice of ½ lemon, ¼ cup white wine.
Instead of using white wine try cooking them with red wine and use red wine vinegar. It alters the taste and colour.

PROCESSES
Sauté sardines in hot extra virgin olive oil, add a sprinkle of salt and pepper to taste, garlic and the herbs. Turn once only. Remove from pan and set aside.
Add lemon and wine and de-glaze the pan. Evaporate a little to form a sauce. Return the sardines to the pan to coat them in the sauce and to reheat.

INGREDIENTS (as above)
I prefer to use whole sardines for the baked version of this recipe. Fillets can also be cooked the same way but will cook more quickly.

PROCESSES
Bake whole sardines 200°C for 25-30.  Bake fillets for 20mins.
Arrange the sardines in a round baking tin that you have coated with the oil. These look very attractive if arranged in a pattern with their heads in the centre and tails radiating out to the edges (like spokes).
Add a sprinkle of salt and pepper to taste, wine and lemon juice,  garlic and the herbs.
Bake and eat when ready.

These too can be accompanied with bread and harissa.

Harissa made with fresh Chillies

HARISSA (A hot chilli condiment)

ZUPPA INGLESE, Italian dessert and Alchermes

I use a Florentine ancient Liquer called Alchermes (or Alkermes) to make the famous Italian dessert called Zuppa Inglese.

Zuppa Inglese — Italy’s Interpretation of Trifle

Zuppa Inglese is the Italian version of the English trifle that is generally made with sponge cake, moistened with fruit syrup or/and sweet sherry, layered with cream/and or custard, jam, and most times red coloured jelly made with jelly crystals.

Trifle is still being made in UK and countries like Australia (that initially inherited much of the British cuisine) especially at Christmas. Over time there have been some little variations to the recipe, for example I have often eaten trifle in Australian homes that included preserved fruit – particularly canned peaches. Recently fresh fruit has become a popular edition, particularly strawberries.

The Origins of Zuppa Inglese

The roots of Zuppa Inglese are shrouded in mystery, with several theories about how the dessert came to Italy. Some suggest it was introduced by Italian diplomats who tasted trifle during visits to London. Others believe it emerged in the kitchens of English expatriates living in Florence in the late 1800s and early 1900s, many of whom employed Italian kitchen staff. These Italian cooks would have adapted the traditional English trifle recipe using local ingredients: , savoiardi, crema pasticcera and perhaps some signori inglesi missed some of their cooking from home and this was what their Italian kitchen maids prepared as trifle Alchermes, the ancient Florentine, red liqueur commonly used to moisten and flavour cakes.

From Trifle to “English Soup”

And thus, Zuppa Inglese was born, earning its nickname “English soup” due to its layered, somewhat “messy” appearance, which some say resembles a soup more than a neatly arranged dessert.

There are many stories about how this English dessert came to be part of Italian cuisine. Some say that perhaps Italian diplomats tasted trifle on a visit to London and this may have been their interpretation of this dessert. Others say that it probably eventuated in the kitchens of the well-off English; there were many living in Florence in the late 1800’s till the lead up of the Second World War.  Most of them employed Italian staff; . They had to use Italian ingredients – savoiardi (sponge fingers – mostly used in layered Italian desserts) and Alchermes the ancient Florentine, red liqueur commonly used to moisten and flavour cakes. Fresh cream was (and is) rarely used in cakes in Italy, but pastry cream called crema pasticcera (also crema inglese – crème anglaise) is very common. And it is easy to see how this sloppy mess could be called “soup”(zuppa).

Modern versions

I have seen modern Italian versions of recipes for Zuppa Inglese, which include red fruit (like berries) and many include chocolate. My mother’s version sometimes included grated dark chocolate on the top; I think that this was partly for decoration; I sometimes top it with cherries and torrone. Other modern versions I have seen have a sprinkling of coffee beans and I wonder if the makers are getting confused with Tiramisu, which because it contains coffee is often decorated with coffee beans.

In the Zuppa Inglese below I have placed a sprinkling of crushed pistacchio nuts and choccolate on top .

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I often make Zuppa Inglese especially when I am stuck for ideas, or have little time to prepare a dessert; it is so easy to prepare and never fails to impress.

I still use the traditional way to make it. I always assemble it in layers: sponge fingers moistened with Alchermes (either homemade or purchased at a good wine shop), cover these with crema pasticcera, repeat x 2-3 layers finishing with a layer of sponge fingers.

I use a large glass bowl to assemble the layers of ingredients (it is a pretty dessert) and keep the zuppa inglese, in the fridge for at least four hours or overnight before I intend to present it – it gives the dessert time to settle and the flavours to develop.  I finally cover it with a layer or tuffs of panna montata (literally meaning cream made into mountains – isn’t the Italian language marvellous!). it is also known as Chantilly cream, whipped cream with a little caster sugar flavoured with vanilla bean –Italians would never think about using plain cream in cakes.

Alchermes LiquEUR

At some stage during my research about Alchermes I found out that the name is likely to have been derived from the Arabic “al” (a) and “qirmiz” (worm). This is because it contains cochineal, which gives the liqueur its red colour. Cochineal used to be made with a particular insect which was crushed and dried, this produced a rich, red dye.

In the photo I have included a bottle of purchased Alchermes (32% volume). I also make my own , see link below.

Recipe for Crema Pasticcera

Crema Pasticcera can be a litttle scary to make. This is the easier way to make the egg custard.

For a more authentic recipes see link below.

INGREDIENTS

3 egg yolks, 3 tablespoons caster sugar infused with a vanilla bean, a pinch of salt 3 tablespoons of cornflour, 1 litre of milk, rind of 1 lemon, and a cinnamon stick, a lump of unsalted butter.

 

PROCESSES

In a saucepan, mix the egg yolks with the sugar and slowly add the flour, salt and a little milk to make a smooth paste – a whisk could be useful. If you do not have sugar that has been infused with a vanilla bean, use a little vanilla essence (not artificial).
Add the rest of the milk and incorporate to dilute the mixture evenly.
Using a vegetable peeler remove the rind in one piece from ½ lemon. Add this to the milk mixture. Add the cinnamon stick.
Use low – medium heat, stir it constantly with a whisk or a wooden spoon and slowly bring it to the boil – the custard should have thickened. if it thickens too much, add a little more milk. Add a lunp of butter and stir it in: this will enrich the custard. Cool before using. To prevent a skin from forming, I place a piece of baking paper or butter paper on its surface until you are cready to use it.
This Zuppa Inglese looks quite impressive in a round glass bowl.
This one is topped with preserved cherries (link below), and bits of torrone.
Zuppa Inglese – decorated.
Zuppa Inglese in progress.
zuppa inglese ready for filling.
Zuppa Inglese, nearly ready for final layer.

Zuppa Inglese is the kind of dessert that’s perfect for any occasion. It’s versatile enough for a family dinner, but elegant enough to serve at a special gathering. While modern variations with berries or chocolate are delicious in their own right, there’s something about sticking with tradition that feels just right.

SEE:
 In Australia I make my Alchermes with Vodka. How to make Alchermes Alkermes the liqueur to make Zuppa Inglese: ALCHERMES/ALKERMES (The liqueur used to make Zuppa Inglese)

MILLEFOGLIE or Millefeuille and CREMA PASTICCIERA or crème pâtissière

Marmellata di cigliege (Cherry jam) and Zuppa Inglese