Category: Pasta, Soups and Rice

SOUTHERN ITALY: Caciocavallo and ’Nduja

I’ve long been familiar with caciocavallo cheese and ’nduja, but I always enjoy discovering new things about food and produce.

Being Italian I enjoy the endless journey through traditions, family stories, unique regions and small producers who put their heart into every ingredient. Researching Italian food is discovering a world inside every dish.

Recently, I visited a small restaurant that focuses on Southern Italian cuisine and had two dishes that sparked my curiosity.

The first was a caciocavallo that came from Puglia and not Sicily, as I was expecting. (Below is  a photo of the classic shape of caciocavallo)

The second was ’nduja, Calabria’s famously spicy, spreadable salume (small good). It was served warm in a small terracotta warmer, ready for dipping with some house-made warm focaccia. I’d never seen it served this way. At home, I tend to slice it like salame and serve it with some quality bread, in a much more rustic manner.

I find it fascinating how produce reflects the unique identity of each region. It’s all thanks to the geography, animal husbandry, and traditional techniques that shape what we grow and eat. A cheese is the flavour of the land, the animals that graze there, and the those that made it. The caciocavallo, from Southern Italy, has maintained its authenticity despite being mass-produced. Its Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) classification safeguards its unique characteristics.

The ‘nduja, which was traditionally made by hand after a pig was slaughtered, is now mass-produced, but traditional recipes remain largely unchanged.

Naturally, I had questions to ask at the restaurant. Fortunately, a passionate, food-loving waiter from Messina was happy to share his knowledge. What I love most about Italians is how even the simplest ingredients and recipes carry the weight of local pride. Thanks to his enthusiasm, I left with a deeper appreciation for these two iconic Southern Italian specialties and a strong urge to verify everything he told me.

Sometimes all it takes is a chatty, informative waiter to turn a good meal into an even better culinary experience. The list of Italian wines was also very good and again this waiter was happy to share his knowledge.

Caciocavallo

Caciocavallo is produced across several Southern Italian regions: Sicily, Basilicata, Calabria, Campania, Molise, and Puglia. However, I’ve always associated this cheese with Sicily, especially as it is made in Ragusa.

My paternal family roots are in Ragusa (photo above), so over the years I have visited Sicily many times. I developed a strong sense of pride around Caciocavallo Ragusano . This is made from the milk of Modica cows (Modica is a city close to Ragusa) that graze the wild pastures of the Iblei plateau. The cheese is rich and earthy, due to the wild herbs in the cows’ diet. My relatives led me to believe that this was the best caciocavallo, with all others being somewhat inferior. And I believed them.

I have eaten cheese produced by families in the region of Ragusa and, like my relatives, I appreciate caciocavallo very much. The caciocavallo cheeses The cheeses are the classic gourd or teardrop shape and are hung in pairs over a wooden beam (“cacio a cavallo” means “cheese on horseback”). It is appreciated as an aged cheese, but also when relatively fresh.

At the restaurant, I was offered Caciocavallo Podolico from Puglia. This local cheese is made from the milk of Podolica cows, a breed raised in southern Italy. Unlike cheese from Ragusa, Caciocavallo Podolico is aged for up to 36 months in natural caves. The cows feed on wild, aromatic herbs in a different terroir, giving the cheese a bold, intense flavour.

The restaurant served it pan-fried, warm, with a drizzle of honey and chilli flakes. The honey reminded me of how I’ve eaten pecorino in Liguria, not warmed.

Eating the caciocavallo from Puglia broadened my horizons beyond the exclusive patriotism for Ragusa-produced caciocavallo.

’Nduja

 ’Nduja is a soft, fermented, pork Calabrian salume made with about 30% chili peppers. Cured in natural casings, it remains spreadable because of the high fat content and fermentation.

Over the years, I have incorporated ‘nduja into various dishes and sauces, and have also enjoyed it sliced and served with bread, but I had never encountered it served warm. At the restaurant, it was presented in a unique warmer equipped with a small flame, ensuring a molten state and an opportunity to be scooped up with bread. This presentation is known as ‘scalda ‘nduja‘.

Here are a couple of ideas for enjoying these ingredients at home:

Pan-fried Caciocavallo: pan fry  in very little oil thick slices until golden, then drizzle with some quality honey and a sprinkle of chilli flakes. Look for DOP or regional varieties at specialty Italian shops.

Warm ’Nduja: Gently heat a slice in a ramekin in the microwave or small pan and serve with warm bread for dipping.. The restaurant served it with focaccia.

I’ve written other posts, especially about ‘nduja that may stimulate more adventures in the kitchen:

Squid with ‘nduja

‘NDUJA

NDUJA, a spreadable and spicy pork salame from Calabria

NDUJA, was considered peasant food in Calabria

PASTA with ‘NDUJA, CIME DI RAPA and PORK SAUSAGES

NDUJA with SQUID, very simple

NDUJA and CALAMARI as a pasta sauce

NDUJA, SQUID, VONGOLE AND PAN GRATTATO with Spaghetti

CACIOCAVALLO and similar cheese

SICILIAN CHEESE MAKING. A VISIT TO A MASSARO (farmer-cheese maker) IN RAGUSA. Formaggio argentiera

There are many recipes that include Caciocavallo as an ingredient  –  use the search button on my blog.

Below, photo of Ragusa.

ZUCCHINI FLOWERS and Preserved Artichokes

My generous friend who has space in her garden for zucchini plants and is able to collect their flowers has been lavishing me with kindness once again. She surprised me with a small brown paper bag with some of her zucchini blooms.

Unfortunately, the colder temperatures and rain aren’t friends of these delicate blossoms, and I think that this last gift could be my last.

Zucchini flowers can be prepared in various interesting culinary methods. However, due to their short shelf life, I prefer to cook them the same day I receive them, regardless of my schedule.

Sometimes, the best meals come together quickly with what you have on hand. With a few fresh ingredients and a bit of creativity, you can easily make a delicious dish that’s both satisfying and flavourful.

I therefore select the easiest and quickest option taking the ingredients I have at hand to achieve a satisfactory outcome.

I had pale-skinned zucchini, spring onions, fresh basil, saffron, and a jar of preserved artichokes. Since fresh artichokes aren’t in season right now, the preserved ones in oil added just the right touch, bringing a rich and tangy flavour to the dish and transforming it into something memorable. A little stock and a generous knob of butter rounded everything off, making for a simple yet delicious pasta sauce dressing.

The photos below should explain the cooking method.

Cut zucchini in half (I used 3), then quarters, and toss in hot pan with extra virgin olive oil. Cook for about 5 minutes. I like to cook these separately and not overcook them to preserve their unique flavour and their shape. Remove them from the pan and set aside. 

Slice 3 spring onions and sauté in extra virgin olive oil.

Add the flowers and basil, then sauté briefly. At this stage I also added a bit of saffron that I had been soaking in about 1/2 cup of stock.

I added the drained artichokes (I cut them in halves), warmed them, then added the cooked zucchini.

I finished with a generous lump of butter.

The type of pasta was rigatoni.

This dish tasted and smelled like Spring, brightening our dull Melbourne day. A friend came to dinner that evening and it was her first time for zucchini flowers.

She left very content.  

ZUCCHINI FLOWERS, A Simple, Sweet Delight

STUFFED ZUCCHINI FLOWERS

EGG PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI FLOWERS, ZUCCHINI, PINE NUTS and STRACCIATELLA (egg drop)

 

A TASTE OF PALERMO: Pasta con le Sarde

When I cook Pasta Con Le Sarde (pasta with sardines), an iconic dish from Palermo, I can always count on my guests falling in love with Sicilian food.

This dish is a beautiful celebration of Sicily’s history, combining pasta with the deep flavours of sardines, spring onions (I especially like the green leaves), wild fennel, saffron, currants, fennel bulbs, toasted pine nuts and/or almonds. The crowning touch is a topping of crispy, golden breadcrumbs, sautéed in olive oil. The combination of ingredients is both unexpected and fascinating. But how can a dish so rich with these unique flavours be Italian? Where are the ingredients that one associates with Italian food?

The answer lies in the island’s fascinating history.

Sicily, and especially Palermo, has long been a crossroads of cultures, where various peoples and flavours were absorbed and blended. One of the most influential groups were the Arabs who settled in Sicily and ruled the island from the 9th to the 11th centuries. The Arabs brought with them an array of ingredients and culinary techniques, many of which still permeate Sicilian cooking today. The use of fennel, saffron, almonds, pine nuts, and currants, as well as the habit of combining sweet and savoury elements in one dish, are hallmarks of Arabic influence.

The photos are of Palermo.

A critical ingredient in pasta con le sarde is wild fennel, which contributes a fresh, slightly aniseed flavour to the dish. However, wild fennel has a short growing season and can be difficult to forage, and if you’re making this dish outside of the growing season you may only find stalky, yellowing plants, as I did recently, but I managed to find some fresh shoots. While you can’t replace the wild fennel entirely, you can substitute it with fennel bulbs (preferably with their fronds still attached), which will lend the dish a similar flavour profile. This too is seasonal.

Sometimes, if I am short of fennel, I add some fennel seeds to the pasta water or to the fennel and onions when I am cooking them.

Ingredients:

For Cooking the Pasta: Wild fennel stalks and fronds (if available) to infuse the cooking water.

Recommended Pasta Shape: Bucatini is the traditional choice, but spaghetti or casarecce will also work well.

extra virgin olive oil

500g fresh sardine fillets

4 spring onions, finely chopped

a handful of fennel fronds, finely chopped

1-2 fennel bulb, finely diced

a pinch of saffron (soaked in a little warm water)

50g currants (soaked in water for 10 minutes)

50g – 100g toasted pine nuts and or toasted almonds, roughly chopped

salt and pepper to taste (or a pinch of ground chili for heat)

For the Breadcrumb Topping:

1 cup breadcrumbs made from good quality day-old bread

a pinch of sugar

a sprinkle of ground cinnamon (optional, but adds a nice touch)

grated lemon zest

Instructions:

Prepare the Ingredients:

  • Make sure that the sardine fillets are free of bones.
  • Chop the spring onions and fennel fronds. Dice the fennel bulbs.
  • Soak in a little water the saffron and currants in separate bowls.

Make the Breadcrumb Topping:

  • Heat a little olive oil in a pan and add the breadcrumbs.
  • Stir in the sugar, cinnamon, and lemon zest.
  • Toast the breadcrumbs until golden and fragrant. Set aside.

Prepare the Pasta Water:

  • Add fennel stalks and some of the tough fronds in a pot of water, add a little salt and bring the salted water to a boil. Let them simmer for about 30 minutes to infuse the water with flavour.

Cook the Sardine Sauce:

  • Heat olive oil in a pan. Sauté the spring onions until soft and fragrant.
  • Add the fennel bulb and fronds and cook until softened. You may need to add a splash of water or white wine to help soften the fennel, depending on its texture.

  • Stir in the saffron, currants, pine nuts, and almonds. Season with salt and pepper (or chili if you prefer a little heat). Blend the flavours and cook for a few minutes and leave it to rest while you cook the pasta and fry the sardines.
  • Drain the solids out of the fennel infused water.  Cook the bucatini (or your choice of pasta) according to the package instructions, using the fennel-infused water for a subtle flavour boost. Once the pasta is ready, drain it, reserving a little of the cooking water in case you need it.

  • In a separate pan, fry the sardine fillets in a little olive oil. I sometimes add a few greens from a spring onion or a few fennel seeds but it isn’t optional).  They will cook quickly, and some may begin to break apart. Break about ¾ of them up slightly and add them to the fennel mixture. Reserve the whole fillets to place on top of the dressed pasta.

Assemble the Dish:

  • Toss the cooked pasta into the sardine and fennel mixture, ensuring the flavours are well incorporated. If the sauce seems a little dry, add some reserved pasta cooking water to bring it all together. At this stage I will probably add a splash of extra virgin olive oil.
  • Transfer the pasta to a serving dish, top it with the sardines and generously sprinkle with the nuts.
  • At this stage you have a choice. You could also top the pasta with some toasted breadcrumbs and place the extra crumbs in a bowl so that eaters can help themselves as they would with grated cheese, or to gently fold the nuts and fillets through the pasta before topping the whole bowl with toasted breadcrumbs.

Pasta Con Le Sarde – Pasta with sardines, Sicilian from my book Sicilian Seafood Cooking

You can never have enough posts for Pasta Con Le Sarde:

PASTA CON LE SARDE (SARDINES)

PASTA CON LE SARDE, an iconic Sicilian recipe from Palermo. Cooked at Slow Food Festival Melbourne

PASTA CON SARDE; the baked version, Palermo, Sicily

ZUCCHINI FLOWERS, A Simple, Sweet Delight

When a friend generously shares some of her freshly picked zucchini flowers from her garden, don’t you simply hug her?

As an ingredient, zucchini flowers are treasured in various cuisines for their subtle flavour and unique texture. Of course, this is the case in Italy. 

I wanted to cook them very simply to preserve the delicate, sweet taste of the flowers. Basil is a soft herb and plentiful at the moment growing on my balcony. I made a frittata and a pasta sauce – both delicate and sweet tasting.

What Are Zucchini Flowers? 

Zucchini flowers (courgette flowers in some parts of the world) are the edible blooms from the zucchini plant. Typically, the male flowers are harvested for culinary purposes, as they do not develop into zucchini. Male flowers feature a long, thin stalk, whereas female flowers sit at the end of the budding fruit. Their yellow-orange petals are visually appealing, and they have a mild, slightly sweet flavour that complements a variety of dishes. 

Due to their delicate nature, zucchini flowers are tricky to purchase. They wilt quickly after being picked, which makes them a rare find in supermarkets and even at farmers’ markets. Occasionally, they might be sold still attached to the zucchini, which helps preserve their freshness. And this is why I am so grateful when a friend takes time to collect them and bring them fresh. 

I stored them in a glass bowl, sealed them and put them in the fridge. The first day I used them to make a frittata. She bought me some more the next day and I cooked a pasta dish (recipe below).

Culinary Uses  

Zucchini flowers are a versatile ingredient and can be prepared in numerous ways. A popular method is to stuff them, dipping them in batter before gently frying them to create a crispy, savoury treat. When preparing zucchini flowers, it’s important to handle them with care so gently wash them under cold water. The stamen from inside the flower can be removed if you wish.  

To stuff zucchini flowers, carefully open the petals and place a small spoonful of filling inside. Gently twist the petals to close them around the stuffing. Dip the stuffed flowers in a light batter and fry them in hot oil until golden brown. They are delicious starter dish.  

They can also be used for frittata, soups, and pasta dishes.

PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI, BASIL AND ZUCCHINI FLOWERS

This fresh, simple yet elegant pasta dish uses sautéed zucchini, with quite a bit of fresh basil leaves and stock. I used spirally and once dressed in this buttery, aromatic sauce, I topped the pasta with lightly sautéed zucchini flowers and more basil. There was plenty of grated Parmesan cheese for a perfect finishing touch. I also grated some fresh nutmeg on to the pasta to complement its’ fresh taste. I used Parmesan because it is more delicate than Pecorino and as an alternative, I would have been happy with fresh ricotta.

 

For 2-4 people, depending if it is an entrée or main

Ingredients:

6 zucchini, (or more) sliced or cut into cubes

4 tbsp butter (divided)

20+fresh basil leaves

stock – vegetable or chicken (about 1cup)

200g (or more) short pasta

12 zucchini flowers, gently cleaned

freshly grated Parmesan cheese, to serve

salt and pepper to taste

freshly ground nutmeg

Instructions:

Cook Zucchini:  In a large pan, melt 2 tablespoon of butter over medium heat. Add the zucchini, season with salt and pepper, and sauté for about 10 -15 minutes until it softens and begins to caramelize. Add splashes stock if it starts to stick. Pour in the rest of the stock and cook to your liking Add about half of the basil leaves during the last couple minutes of cooking so they infuse the zucchini with their fragrance. Once done, set aside and keep warm.

Cook the Pasta: While the veggies cook, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and cook the pasta according to the package instructions. Reserve a little pasta cooking water before draining, in case you need to thin out your sauce. My pasta had sufficient stock and I did not need to do this.

Sauté the Zucchini Flowers: While the pasta cooks, heat the remaining butter in a small pan over medium heat. Add the zucchini flowers and sauté quickly for a couple of minutes until they wilt slightly. Add the fresh basil leaves sauté until they slightly soften. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Assemble the Dish: Once the pasta is drained, toss it into the pan with the cooked zucchini mixture. If the sauce looks too thick, add a little of the reserved pasta cooking water to help coat the pasta. Stir everything together to ensure the pasta is well-coated

Serve: Plate the pasta, and top with the sautéed zucchini flowers. Grate some fresh nutmeg on top

Present it with freshly grated Parmesan cheese (and a few extra basil leaves for garnish, if you wish).

Below: photo of Ravioloni (large ravioli) with zucchini flowers pan fried in some butter and sage as a dressing.

The frittata was extremely simple. I had some Brie in the fridge (cut into large slices) and used the flowers, fresh basil leaves, eggs and Brie. Once again I used butter.

EGG PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI FLOWERS, ZUCCHINI, PINE NUTS and STRACCIATELLA (egg drop) 

STUFFED ZUCCHINI FLOWERS

MAKING FRITTATA Podcast with Maria Liberati

 

 

ZUCCHINI WITH CURRANTS, PINE NUTS and SAFFRON

The vibrant combination of currants, pine nuts, fennel seeds and saffron brings out the best in zucchini, turning them into something truly special and unusual for most people who may not be familiar with some of these Sicilian flavours.   The combination of these ingredients create rich, complex flavours, both sweet and savory. The result is perfect for any gathering or as a meal at home.

This dish can be enjoyed served cold as a salad, warm or hot as a side or with pasta. It also makes a good strater.

Sometimes I get caught up in thinking that my everyday recipes aren’t worth sharing, but whenever I serve the different versions of this zucchini dish, I always receive compliments from friends, so it’s time to share the recipe.

If you have ever grown zucchini (or zucchine, is the plural form in Italian!), you know that they quickly multiply, leaving you with an abundance, or as some say – a zucchini glut. I remind growers that zucchini flowers are delicious stuffed, in a frittata or in pasta and I am surprised that many people are not aware of  cooking the flowers. They are also delicious incorporated into this pasta dish.

Those fast-growing squashes turn into rather monstrous vegetables if not harvested quickly (called zucche in Italian once they get to a certain size). These are OK in soups, some people stuff them.

Sautéing onions in olive oil forms the base of this zucchini dish, and you gradually add the other ingredients, each enhancing the others. Depending on your preferences, you can keep the zucchini slightly al dente for a salad and cook them down further for a warm side dish or as a pasta dressing.

A Familiar Flavour in Sicilian cooking 

Those familiar with the Sicilian recipe Pasta con le sarde (pasta with sardines)  , or my recipe for pasta with cauliflower, sultanas, currants and anchovies, both on my blog will notice that the ingredients for this zucchini dish closely mirrors those same combination of flavours in those Sicilian pasta dishes. They also bring out the best in zucchini.

I sometimes add anchovies, a common ingredient in Sicilian cooking; it is a simple way to get amazing depth of flavour. On occasions I don’t use saffron and may use a few cherry tomatoes instead. In the photo below, in the jar, are the anchovies.

A splash of white wine and a little vegetable or chicken stock when braising the zucchini  are ingredients that are common in most of my cooking.

Ingredients

For this dish, I usually estimate two small zucchini per person. If they are very small increase the quantities. Here’s what you’ll need:

8 small zucchini (around 2 per person)

4 tablespoons currants (soaked in a cup of warm water)

1 large onion, chopped

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

4 anchovies, finely chopped (optional, but they bring an incredible depth of flavour, use more or less)

2 bay leaves

1 handful fresh parsley, finely chopped

1 tablespoon fennel seeds

3-4 tablespoons pine nuts (toast them beforehand for an extra flavour boost)

1 small teaspoon saffron, soaked in warm water (let it infuse for at least 30 minutes)

salt, to taste, crushed dried chilies (optional, for a bit of heat) or black pepper

Preparation

Cut the zucchini into small batons or thin rings, depending on your preference. I prefer batons for a more unusual cut, but rings work beautifully too.

 

 In a large frying pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the chopped onion and sauté until it becomes soft and translucent. The aroma will already start to fill your kitchen!

Add the anchovies (optional): If using anchovies, add them now, allowing them to melt into the oil. Stir gently with a wooden spoon, and let the anchovies dissolve, infusing the oil with their savory richness.

Add the zucchini pieces to the pan, along with the bay leaves and fennel seeds. Stir gently, letting the zucchini absorb the oil and spices, and allow them to colour lightly. The goal is to get them nicely coated without overcooking. Add salt at this stage but if you have used anchovies check for salt. Add chiliies if you wish.

Drain the currants and add them, the pine nuts, the chopped parsley, and the saffron (along with its soaking liquid). Season with salt and a pinch of crushed dried chilies, if using. Stir everything gently.

Cover the pan and let everything cook on low heat for about 10 -20 minutes, or until the zucchini are tender, but not mushy. You want them to maintain a slight bite, but if you prefer them softer, cook them a bit longer.

For a Pasta Dish

If you’d like to turn this into a pasta dish  here’s how to do it:

Pasta: Use 300g of dry, short pasta for 4-5 people (or more if it’s your main course).

talians often recommend about 100g of pasta per person, but in our household, 500g of pasta is just right for a first course for 6-8 people. For extra flavour, finish the pasta with some freshly grated Pecorino cheese or toasted breadcrumbs

As a topping: Grated Pecorino (is preferred for Sicilian dishes) or Toasted Breadcrumbs

Breadcrumbs: To make the breadcrumbs, lightly fry 100g of day-old, quality bread (such as sourdough or pasta dura) in a little extra virgin olive oil. Add a pinch of grated lemon peel, a dash of cinnamon, and even a bit of sugar while frying for a fragrant, slightly sweet topping. Serve the breadcrumbs separately, so guests can sprinkle them on as they like.

Cook the pasta according to package instructions, then drain it and toss it into the pan with the zucchini mixture. Let the pasta absorb the flavours for about 5 minutes before serving.

PASTA CON LE SARDE (SARDINES)

PASTA CON LE SARDE, Iconic Sicilian made easy

PASTA RIMESTATA COI CAVOFIORI; Pasta with cauliflower, sultanas, pine nuts and anchovies

EGG PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI FLOWERS, ZUCCHINI, PINE NUTS and STRACCIATELLA (egg drop)

STUFFED ZUCCHINI FLOWERS

PASTA CON ZUCCHINE FRITTE (Pasta and fried zucchini)

EGG PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI FLOWERS, ZUCCHINI, PINE NUTS and STRACCIATELLA (egg drop)

TRAVELLING, Melbourne to Darwin

This post contains photos of the cooking that can be achieved with a simple stove in an extremely basic van while travelling in country Australia. Experiencing nature and being part of the stunningly beautiful scenery stimulates the appetite.

I left Melbourne six weeks ago and although I have been cooking every night, I have had very little time or phone coverage to write posts. At the same time it has also been very difficult to take photographs in the semi dark of the food I am cooking or eating. Our VW carrier is a simple van and the cooking facilities have to be done outside, but we have continued to eat healthy fresh food. This has never been difficult because when we travel we are picking up a vegetable or two in the bigger communities and storing them in our little icebox, so we have had fresh produce all the way. A few tins of pulses help but I have also carried a selection of pulses, the small shaped ones, and once soaked they cook quickly.

Zucchini, cabbage, sweet potatoes, carrots, pumpkin and cauliflower seem to be available everywhere and wherever we could we bought spinach (the blede type) and silver beet. We always do well with fresh vegetables, wherever we are!

I brought fresh herbs from home and after 6 weeks I still have thyme and bay leaves. These last for ever! Spices are also a must and there are many of those.

Here are some photos of some of the things I cooked or was in the process of cooking. The stunningly beautiful scenery and surprisingly vivid colours of the Northern Territory certainly are beautiful!

Food

And now for some Northern Territory scenery:

And all of this, performed in a very simple van!

These links have more photos and ideas for what can be achieved:

CAMPING AND COOKING IN W.A.

GLAM COOKING ON THE ROAD; Camping

BEING ELDERLY, TRAVELLING and COFFEE

CAMPING and COOKING

NORTHERN ITALY, rye and buckwheat pasta and PIZZOCCHERI, REVISITED

I first wrote this post many years ago. It has a recipe for making buckwheat and rye pasta. Buckwheat spiralli are commercially available and are obviously a very easy choice. The post also contains information about some of the mountainous regions of northern Italy.
Potatoes cabbage and buckwheat pasta when cooked by themselves are not particularly flavourful. The distinctive flavour of this dish is enhanced by butter, garlic and sage and the alpine cheeses that the region is renowned for producing such as Bitto and Valtellina Casera (DOP cheeses – Protected Designation of Origin). Alternatively use Fontina or Gruyère, Emmental, Edam, or Gouda.
### Tap the link above for recipe
 

CIME DI RAPA and pasta

This is the season for Cime di rapa and I can’t get enough of them.

Unfortunately this green leafy vegetable that is in season now (winter) can be hard to find, even at the Queen Victoria Market (Melbourne). Gus and Carmel who have a stall at the QVM called Il Fruttivendelo (Frutti+ vendelo= fruit+ seller) have bunches of Cime di rapa. A fruttivendolo doesn’t only sell fruit, and as this well stocked stall attests, they have a wide range of seasonal fruit and vegetables; some that you will have trouble to find anywhere else, for example, I buy prickly pears, chicory, endives and much more.

The only other person who sometimes has Cime di rapa is John from Tomato City.

And by the way, another vegetable that is difficult to source is artichoke and both of these stalls sell them, in season of course.

I have seen bunches of Cime di rapa in greengrocers in the suburbs, at least those that have Italian proprietors. You won’t have any trouble finding them in Adelaide as most greengrocers are owned by Italians.

Italians mostly refer to them as Cime (tops or tips). A rapa is a turnip, Cime di rapa are turnip tips or tops, perhaps they are called this because this green leafy vegetable is a mustard tasting green, like turnips. As you see they look a bit like broccoli and they have a yellow flower.

As for my recent jaunt to the Dandenong Market, while Cime may have eluded me, the diversity of fresh produce on display was nothing short of mesmerizing The quality was superb, and the prices were amazingly cheap. Not surprisingly, there were very good looking, high quality, fresh zucchini, eggplants and okra at all the stalls.

Amidst the chatter of countless languages, the market’s vibrancy was enormous. I say not surprisingly, as the produce vendors and shoppers reflected the rich tapestry of cultures that live in Dandenong.

The City of Greater Dandenong is the most culturally diverse community in Australia, with residents from 157 birth places and 64 per cent of its population born overseas.

Among the more than 130 different languages spoken are Vietnamese, Khmer, Chinese, Greek, Albanian, a large Indian population especially Punjabi, Pakistani, Afghan, Sri Lankan and Sinhalese.

When it comes to sourcing ingredients, I’m no stranger to the busy streets of Melbourne’s CBD and I have no problems finding Vietnamese, Korean, Japanese and Chinese ingredients, but I go to Dandenong mainly for the array of Indian hard to source treasures. That recent excursion yielded spices, dhal, and pickles;each ingredient an undertaking of culinary endeavours to come.

I was really keen to cook Cime that night and came home via a greengrocer that would have them, and they did.

Cime di rapa

Most cooks who are familiar with this green leafy vegetable are also familiar with the most popular and common ways of cooking them to dress short pasta, especially orecchiette – (little ears shaped pasta, photo above). The greens are usually softened/cooked first and then tossed in extra virgin olive oil, garlic and chilli. It is a Southern Italian dish (made popular in Puglia, Bari is the capital city). Cows are widespread in the North, sheep in the South and therefore it is fitting that the grated cheese to top the pasta is Pecorino, made from sheep’s milk. Parmigiano is made from cow’s milk, leave that for Northern pasta dishes.

My relatives in Sicily (and most likely in other Italian regions) boil the greens in quite a bit of salted water and once the greens are drained they reserve the water to cook the pasta.

The drained greens are sautéed in extra virgin olive oil, chilli and garlic. The vegetable water flavours the pasta and sometimes tinges that pasta green. It is a nice touch, but I prefer to sauté the cleaned greens without cooking them first. I like to concentrate the flavour of the vegetables and keep a little bit of crunch – not Italian at all.

Most of the time I add anchovies to the hot oil before adding the chilli and garlic. The anchovies dissolve easily in the hot oil before I add and sauté the chilli and garlic, and finally. Omit the salt if you are adding anchovies.

Cime cooked the same way are great as a side vegetable, so forget the cavolo nero, silverbeet, kale and spinach, try Cime instead.

There are other ways to cook Cime as an accompaniment to pasta. Popular is the addition of good pork and fennel Italian sausages, but most of the time I like to cook the Cime (with or without the pork sausages) with pulses – particularly chickpeas, cannellini or borlotti beans. With the pork sausages I tend to favour borlotti, they taste more meaty.

Sometimes I use feta instead of grated cheese. It is much creamier and definitely not Italian. One of the highlights of residing in a multicultural country is that one can mix and match without having a Italian looking over your shoulder.

I keep the feta in extra virgin olive oil and herbs in my fridge. Use tough herbs like Bay leaves and Thyme. Dried Oregano, fennel seeds, peppercorn or chilli flakes ate good but not soft herbs or fresh garlic… these oxidise and  rot.

Red tomatoes are also a good addition. In winter tomatoes are out of season, so if you are not able to use fresh tomatoes one tin is sufficient – toss chopped tomatoes and their juice in a saucepan, add a glug of extra virgin olive oil, 1-2 garlic cloves some fresh basil (seems to be for sale all year round) or some oregano (fresh or dried), a little salt and reduce it as you would to make a tomato salsa to dress pasta. Add the tomato salsa to the sautéed Cime cooked with or without anchovy. If you are using pomodorini as I am in the photos below , you may prefer to just sauté the tomatoes. I rather like the explosion of flavour that pomodorini provide.

Leave the above sauce as it is or add a cup or so of chickpeas, cannellini or borlotti.

 

There is very little waste (if any) because the larger stems that can be tough can be stripped of their outer peel.

Whether served as a comforting pasta dish or as a humble side, Cime di rapa with their depth of flavour do it for me every time.

Other information and recipes about Cime di Rapa (also referred to in the plural as Cime di rape).

CIME DI RAPE (or Rapa) with pasta, anchovies and lemon peel

ONE OF MY FAVOURITE VEGETABLES Cime di Rape

PASTA with ‘NDUJA, CIME DI RAPA and PORK SAUSAGES

EDIBLE WEEDS: Orecchiette e Broccoletti Selvatici (and cime di rape)

CIME DI RAPE (A winter green)

DELVING INTO EGG PASTA

The diversity of Italian regional cuisine, continues to inspire me and in this post I am unraveling some of the intricacies of Italian egg pasta, from tagliatelle to tortelli.

I really like the texture and taste of pasta made with eggs; the number of eggs in the dough can significantly influence the texture, with a higher egg count often resulting in a firmer bite.

When we think of egg pasta, what may immediately come to mind are the classics: tagliatelle, pappardelle, fettucine, and lasagne. These are all variations on the theme of ribbons or squares or rectangular sheets of pasta, each with its own story and preferred accompaniments.

 

Pappardelle, slightly broader than tagliatelle, and are widely used in Tuscan kitchens. They’re frequently paired with strong meaty sauces – usually tomatoes and herbs slow cooked with beef, pork or lamb. Celebrated across the region of Tuscany is the classic dish of pappardelle with cinghiale (wild boar) and in season, pappardelle with porcini mushrooms.

Fettucine are more narrow than tagliatelle. Both tagliatelle and fettucine are usually sold as nidi (nests). These delicate ribbons are more fragile than their broader counterparts and the strands are coiled in the shape of small nests and nestled snugly in their packaging.

Tagliatelle are from the cuisines of somewhere from Bologna or Modena (Emilia Romagna), or in the Marche region. The dough is generally made with less eggs. Ragú alla Bolognese is the renowned dressing for tagliatelle but once again traditionally there were meat based sauces but this is now changing.

Small shapes or thin strips of egg pasta are also excellent in broth – take the very fine egg noodles called fillini (fili means threads) and tagliolini are fine strips of pasta (or tajerin in Piedmontese). Quadretti/quadrini are little squares and this shape is popular all over Italy. It is usually made with the bits of fresh pasta that are left over from making pasta ribbons and lasagna rectangles. Oddly cut pasta is also popular.

Cannelloni, like lasagne, are made with rectangular shaped cuts of pasta, with the pasta folded over the filling.

But egg pasta isn’t only cut into ribbons and sheets; it’s also about the crafting of the varieties of pasta ripiena (filled/stuffed pasta) usually filled with a combination of meat, cheese and/or vegetables. Each variety, with its distinct shape, character and sauce, tells a story of the region where it is made.

There are many shapes of filled pasta mainly from the regions of Emilia Romagna, Lombardy, Liguria and Piedmont. The most widely known type of filled pasta are the ravioli, mainly from Liguria. Ravioli come in various sizes and are made with various fillings and are common all over Italy.

Depending on how familiar you are with eating in various parts of Italy or eateries in your home country that have regional Italian, stuffed pasta specialties, you may be familiar with tortellini, tortelli, (larger version), cappelletti cappellacci (larger version) anolini/agnolini and agnolotti (larger version).

And as you would expect, there are regional variations in the shapes, size and fillings.  For example, the classic filling for tortelli in Parma and Piacenza (Emiglia Romagna) includes ricotta and herbs, but you can also find them filled with meat. In Mantua (Lombardy) it is pumpkin, with amaretti and mustard. Most of these tortelli are the usually formed by cutting a circle of pasta,  placing the stuffing on one side and folding the other half of pasta over the stuffing. I call this moon shaped. But in Maremma (Tuscany) the tortello is square shaped and larger than ravioli, and stuffed with ricotta, spinach, nutmeg and cheese. In Mugello and Casentino (Tuscany) the usual filling is potato, parmesan and nutmeg and is dressed with a strong meat sauce.

In the very norther region of Val D’Aosta the tortelli are square or rectangular and stuffed with spinach or minced veal, but in the Marche region the filling is a combination of mountain herbs.

The one tortello that sticks in my mind is the very unusual Cremasco tortello:(Republic of Venice) filled with amaretti (almond biscuits) and mostaccini (spiced biscuits) egg yolk, raisins, candied fruit and grated cheese. This makes so much sense to me because Venezia was the centre of the spice trade. These Venetian tortelli are dressed with brown butter and sage dressing.

In South Tyrol, schlutzkrapfen are traditionally made with a mix of barley or rye flour and stuffed with a mixture of spinach and ricotta or with turnips and potatoes, depending on availability. Sometimes smoked pork is added.  It is not a big surprise that the region has an Austrian culinary influence.

Although most of these stuffed pasta types I have mentioned are found in Northern Italy, I will include the ricotta ravioli as made in the southern east corner of Sicily. My zia Niluzza who lived in Ragusa made the best traditional, large ravioli filled with ricotta and served with a strong tomato and a pork based sugo. The ravioli are also exquisite dressed with black ink sauce.

Culurgiones are from Sardinia and their filling consists of boiled potatoes, onions and mint, some also add pecorino others ricotta.

Except for the small tortellini that are cooked in broth (capon, beef, chicken), all of the filled pasta shapes are cooked like pasta in boiling water and dressed with various sauces typical of the region where they originate.

The possibilities for sauces are many, for example there are various combinations that could be based on cheese, cream, butter, ham/prosciutto,  peas, mushroom, brown sage butter, walnut or simple tomato/ tomato and meat sugo, including pork sausages.

There are stuffings made with fish, fish and vegetables: crab is popular. And of course there are light fish sauces to dress the fish stuffed pasta, these are usually butter and fish fumet based. Black ink sauce is marvellous.

And what is still interesting that in Italy, a local would respect and mostly protect the tradition, even though in recent years, there’s been a shift towards lighter vegetable-based sauces that are so popular now in modern cuisine.

One very simple sauce that is  very common in dressing egg pasta of all shapes and packages is the brown butter and sage sauce.

Some of you may know brown butter sauce as the traditional beurre noisette (hazelnut butter), a French sauce made simply by heating unsalted butter (salted butter tends to foam more and has more sediment).

Brown butter has a rich, nutty flavour and with the addition of fresh sage, it is used to dress egg pasta in northern Italy. It is a popular autumnal dressing that complements ingredients such as mushroom, pumpkin and potato.

Brownt butter and sage dressing for egg pasta (4 people):

50 g of butter

15-20 sage leaves

Melt the butter over low heat in a pan. Add the sage leaves letting them sizzle gently for a few minutes. Ensure to constantly stir the butter being careful not to burn it.  When you have done this, take the pan off the heat and transfer the butter to a separate bowl. This will ensure that it doesn’t burn due to residual heat.

Once the pasta is cooked, drain the pasta, empty the pot and put the pasta back inside. Remove some of the leaves from the butter (optional) before dressing the pasta.

Stir gently to coat the pasta. At this stage I also like to add black pepper.

Grated Parmesan is a must.

One of my aunts was Piedmontese and was an excellent cook. Her daughter (my cousin Rosadele) and my Sicilian uncle lived in Genova (Liguria). The two women were champions for making Piemontese and Ligurian specialties especially stuffed pasta – agnolotti in soft fresh cheese sauces and pansoti in walnut and marjoram pesto were two favourites.

My parents and I visited the relatives in Genova every year on our habitual yearly summer trip from Trieste to Sicily. We ate very well.

Having lived in Trieste and with relatives spanning from Piedmont to Sicily (Ragusa and Augusta, quite different cooking), I count myself lucky to have this culinary heritage that I enjoy exploring  .

PESTO DI NOCI (Walnut pesto/ sauce for pasta)

SWEET MARJORAM AND WALNUT PESTO

RICOTTA RAVIOLI and STONE GROUND FLOUR

TORTELLI DI ZUCCA (Large tortellini stuffed with pumpkin) Ristorante Cartoccia in Mantova

PAPPARDELLE (Pasta with Hare or game ragù)

PAPPARDELLE Continued…..

SQUID BLACK INK sauce: Montalbano’s pasta with black ink sauce

QUADRUCCI IN BRODO, Squares of home-made Pasta in Broth

TORTELLINI, how made in Bologna

EMIGLIA ROMAGNA and their love of stuffed pasta

LASAGNA OR LASAGNE? RECIPE FOR LASAGNA AL RADICCHIO

This post contains details about the use of the term Lasagna and Lasagne. In this post there is also a recipe for a Lasagna al Radicchio.

In Italian, baked pasta can be Pasta al forno, Pasta imbottita (stuffed pasta), Lasagna/ Lasagne or Pasticcio, (as it was called where we lived in Trieste, in the Friuli Venezia Giulia region.)

When my parents and I came to Australia we used to invite guests for Sunday lunch. Often on the menu, the finished baked dish was a Lasagna Bolognese. It consisted of layers of cooked green or white sheets of pasta (lasagne), interspersed with a slow-cooked ragù, béchamel, and Parmigiano.

But the Emilian Romanian people where the Bolognese version of this baked pasta dish originates, refer to the finished dish as Lasagne Bolognese.

A single, wide sheet of pasta is called a lasagna, the plural is lasagne. When we speak about the type and shape of pasta, it is always in the plural – spaghetti, penne, rigatoni, fettuccine etc. so lasagne is no different.

So, when we refer to the cooked dish, is it Lasagna or Lasagne?

 Recently I made a Lasagna from the Veneto region (stuffed with red radicchio, béchamel, ricotta and parmesan) and I intended to use the correct grammar. I have completed quite a bit of reading to research this issue.

It appears that over the centuries, the two usages have always alternated, but the plural (Lasagne) was more common. There are many theories about where the term comes from. There are various theories about the word lasagna and how it originated, one common and simple explanation is that it could have derived from the course Latin lasanum for cooking pot, or the ancient Greek and Roman laganum, the name for their flat pieces of dough.

Dictionaries are more likely to use Lasagne and because of this, recipes on the web also use Lasagne. Modern publishers because of the dictionary use of the term also prefer Lasagne, unless they are publishing traditional regional recipes from menus of local restaurants that have called their dish Lasagna. There appear not to be any set rules about the lexicon. This is confirmed in my three comprehensive Slow Food Editions of traditional, regional dishes that in total has 2,260 recipes from the Italian Osterie (local eateries).

Pellegrino Artusi has no references of Lasagna or Lasagne. His book is about home cooking and this baked form of pasta was rather lavish and not considered an everyday cooking dish. His book L’Artusi was first published in 1910, my edition is from 1978.

When I looked at the numerous books I have about Italian cuisine both in the Italian and English language I did not find many recipes for either Lasagne or Lasagna, but then I realized that when we are discussing traditional recipes of baked pasta from different regions (either layered or not) they use a variety of shapes of pasta and not sheets of lasagne and therefore cannot be called Lasana/Lasagne.

For example, some traditional Sicilian recipes for baked pasta are (language -Sicilian/ Italian / English):

Maccarona di zitu astufati/ Maccheroni di zite stufate/Baked pasta made with the zite shaped pasta.

Maccheruna au furnu amuricana /Maccheroni al forno alla modicana/ Baked pasta from Modica made with short shaped pasta.

‘Ncasciata/Pasta incassata/Pasta that has been encased.  This is a favourite dish of Montalbano. There are different versions of this dish, as the most popular versions are as made in Messina, Ragusa and in Palermo. In Messina and Ragusa the maccheroni could be short pasta such as rigatoni, ditali, zite or penne, while in Palermo the pasta are anelli or anellini (ring shapes). Montalbano would be eating the one fro Modica.

In my Sicilian texts there are also recipes for:

Timbale/Timballo that is also made with maccheroni but encased in slices of fried eggplant (derived from the word drum, encased/shaped like a drum).

Gattó, derived from the French word gâteau, (food baked or served in the form of a cake) and used by the Sicilian monsu (derived from the French word monsieur –chefs who embraced the French cuisine in the homes of the well to do).

All of these Sicilian recipes of baked pasta mentioned above use short pasta shapes, a strong sugo and a variety of extras, for example – meatballs, salame, boiled eggs, eggplant and cheese. These combinations of various ingredients could also just as likely be called a Pasticcio (Greek Pastitsio) from pastiche – mixed styles, a mess. The names and combinations of ingredients are explicable as they fit with the cultural and culinary history of Sicily that was settled by various cultures – Greeks, Arabs, French, Spaniards.

In the more comprehensive collection of regional Italian recipe texts there are a couple of recipes that are referred to as Lasagne but they are made with lasagnette – narrow strips of pasta larger than fettucine; some types of lasagnette have curly edges.

And then there are recipes for Lagane/Laine, the traditional wide pasta strips  in Basilicata, Campania, Calabria and Puglia. It is traditionally served with legumes, mainly chick peas.

In my more modern Italian texts there are very few Lasagne recipes, but there are a few that are the Open Lasagne/ Lasagne deconstructed, i.e. the layers are constructed on the plate and and are not baked. Obviously the traditional Lasagna was out of favour.

My research tells me that in America, Lasagna is the more common usage, but in the UK the preferred usage is Lasagne. Once again I checked my books/web resources and this appeared to be true.

I also found it interesting that some references indicated that In Northern Italy the most common lexicon is Lasagne and in Southern Italy the preferred usage is Lasagna, but not so, the books/web resources I used did not reflect this. Although, every time I found the baked pasta from Napoli (in southern Italy), it was always called Lasagna, but one reference/example cannot apply to all of southern Italy.

After all of this (I am a sucker for punishment, it took me several days to research it), I can assume that the two forms are both still used and are equally correct. The terminology, whether in speech or in writing refers equivalently to the same thing:

Lasagna or Lasagne are both acceptable alternatives.

Lasagna al radicchio

*Cooked radicchio is much more intensely bitter than fresh radicchio. If you do not like bitter tastes don’t make this Lasagna.

The béchamel sweetens the taste and this is why I also used Ricotta. Nutmeg, for me, always adds a delicate sweetness to the taste, especially when used with milk.

I can only buy the round Radicchio at the Queen Victoria Market (Chioggia) and this is what I have used. Trevisano or Tardivo radicchio is used in Italy, both have narrow long leaves. All three are red radicchi (plural of radicchio).

I used a commercial pasta this time.

250 g lasagne. (9oz) fresh or dried

1 onion, chopped

2 -3 heads of radicchio,  cut into quarters and then sliced thickly

150g grated Parmesan and 350g of ricotta

Salt and black pepper to taste

4 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil and 3 tbs butter

100ml white wine

a few fresh bay leaves

For the béchamel:

110g butter

80 g corn flour

1litre whole milk milk, approx. 4 full cups (have some more on hand just in case the béchamel becomes too thick

 a little nutmeg, grated

Cook the radicchio

In a large frying pan, heat the extra virgin olive oil and butter, sauté the onion until it begins to soften. Add the radicchio and bay leaves and cook for about 10 minutes over gentle heat. Add salt and pepper and wine and evaporate the liquid. If there is too much liquid in the pan use tongs to pull out the radicchio and evaporate the wine further. (I like the taste of wine and therefore am prepared to use this process). Remove from heat and allow to cool.

Make the béchamel (white sauce)

Heat the milk but do not boil. Put the butter in a pan over a low heat, melt it, add the flour and mix until it forms a thick paste (roux). Remove it from the heat and slowly add the milk stirring continuously. Try to prevent lumps. Place the pan on heat and keep stirring constantly until it starts to thicken. It will take about 5 mins. If it is too thick add more milk (cold is fine as you won’t need much). Add grated nutmeg, add some salt. You may wish to taste it especially if you have used salted butter.

Pasta

Cook the pasta in plenty of boiling salted water. You may wish to cook half of the sheets per time to keep them from sticking together. Cook them till just before they are at the al dente stage as you will be baking them. Drain them and plunge them into cold water so that they do not stick together.

To Assemble

Begin the layering process in a baking tray.

Select a baking pan that will accomodate the contents. I played around with the baking trys i have and decided on one that was:  35x 25x 7 cm. Aim for 3 layers:  a little béchamel, a layer of pasta, radicchio, distribute some grated cheese, ricotta in small pieces. Begin again with the pasta, radicchio etc. Finish with a pasta layer and top with a little bechamel, some grated cheese and ricotta in small pieces. Grate more nutmeg on top.

Bake at 200°c degrees.

Cook for the first 20-25 mins covered with foil. Remove the foil and continue cooking for another 10 mins uncovered until the top is crisp, bubbly and golden on top). Remove from the oven, allow to rest for about 10 mins and serve.

COOKED RADICCHIO

RISOTTO AL RADICCHIO ROSSO

EMIGLIA ROMAGNA and their love of stuffed pasta

MONTALBANO’S FAVOURITE DISHES