Category: Recipes

CICORIA: Chicory – Bitter Green

Cicoria (chicory) is of one of my favourite winter greens. This bitter, leafy vegetable is found in markets and greengrocers all over Italy, but is not as commonly here in Australia.

I especially love the open-air markets, where the bunches seem to have a life of their own and carts of wild-foraged cicoria are plentiful.

Cicoria is cultivated and sold in bunches, it is a green vegetable, but sometimes the stalks are tinted red.  The cicoria family includes catalogna and puntarelle (also called Cicoria cimata). These are usually  used in salads.

To the uninitiated, cicoria may seem like just another bitter leafy green. But in Italy, it holds a much more significant role.

What Is Cicoria?

Cicoria is a catch-all term Italians use for a variety of bitter greens: wild dandelion, catalogna, and puntarelle (which look like cicoria that has started to sprout). In English, it’s loosely translated as chicory, though it includes more varieties than you’d typically find at a greengrocer’s, especially in Australia.

In many parts of the world, chicory is seen more as a medicinal herb or a coffee substitute (in fact, chicory essence was widely consumed as “coffee” when I first arrived in Australia). But in Italy, it’s cherished—an essential vegetable in cucina povera, the humble, healthful peasant cooking that defines much of the country’s food culture.

Italians will tell you that bitter greens are “good for the liver”—and they’re right. Cicoria’s natural bitterness stimulates bile production, supports digestion, and nourishes the gut. Like artichokes, another bitter Italian favourite, it’s as healing as it is flavourful.

How I Cook Cicoria

There are endless ways to prepare cicoria, and most Italian recipes begin with boiling or blanching to soften it. That said, I don’t always do this—I often sauté the greens first, then add a bit of liquid, cover with a lid, and let them cook gently.

Cicoria Ripassata

The most traditional—and simplest—method is to boil or blanch the greens, then sauté with aromatics. This is known as cicoria ripassata: after boiling, the greens are “repassed” in olive oil with garlic and chili. Though often credited as a Roman dish, it’s made this way all over Italy. (The chili is optional.)

Boiled Cicoria with Lemon and Olive Oil

Surprisingly refreshing: just boiled cicoria with a drizzle of good olive oil and a squeeze of lemon. Sometimes served with a bit of its poaching liquid, this method is known as rinfrescante—cleansing and hydrating for the digestive system.

Cicoria with Legumes

Bitter greens pair beautifully with creamy beans. Mix cicoria with lentils, borlotti, or cannellini for a hearty side dish—or turn it into pasta e fagioli. I also like spooning cicoria and borlotti over polenta or cooking it with fresh Italian pork sausages and pasta.

Frittate

Leftover sautéed cicoria makes a fantastic frittata. I use all sorts of vegetables as a contorno (side dish) the day before, then reuse the leftovers in a frittata or add them to soups.

Salads

The tender inner leaves of the long leaf cicoria can also be eaten raw. I like mixing the young central leaves into salads with lettuce, rocket, radicchio, fennel, and endive.

Varieties like puntarelle and catalogna are also very popular salad ingredients. Romans traditionally dress puntarelle with anchovy vinaigrette.

Cicoria Ripassata

I often serve this as a contorno (side dish).

Ingredients:

1 large bunch of cicoria (chicory or dandelion greens)

2–3 cloves garlic, smashed

1 dried or fresh chili (or chili flakes)

Extra virgin olive oil

Salt, to taste

Instructions:

Clean the cicoria thoroughly, removing any tough stems and soaking well to remove grit.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Blanch the cicoria for 5–10 minutes, until tender. Drain well and gently squeeze out excess water.

In a wide skillet, heat a generous glug of olive oil. Add garlic and chili, and let them infuse the oil for a minute or two.

Add the cicoria, season with salt, and sauté for another 5 minutes, tossing to coat in the flavours.

Purea di Fave e Cicoria

(Broad Bean Purée with Chicory)

A Southern Italian winter favourite, this dish is both comforting and nutrient-rich. I sometimes swap fava beans for butter beans for convenience—they’re creamy, mild, and velvety. I often serve the purée with slivers of fresh or toasted bread, much like hummus. Try it as an antipasto with a Southern Italian wine such as Malvasia Bianca, Verdeca, or Fiano.

Ingredients:

1 cup dried split broad beans (or whole beans, peeled after soaking)

1 bunch of cicoria

2 cloves garlic

Extra virgin olive oil

Salt, to taste

Instructions:

Soak the broad beans  overnight. Drain and peel if needed.

In a pot, cover the beans with fresh water and simmer over low heat until very soft (about 1 hour). Add water as needed. Once cooked, mash or purée with olive oil and salt until smooth and creamy.

Meanwhile, clean and boil the cicoria until tender. Drain and sauté with garlic and olive oil.

To serve, spoon the broad beann purée onto a plate, top with the cicoria, and finish with a generous drizzle of olive oil.

The fragrance is incredible.

Other Cicoria recipes:

CICORETTA CON SALSICCIA (Chicory with fresh pork sausage)

CICORIA and Puntarelle (Chicory)

A RAVE ABOUT BORLOTTI BEANS

SEASONAL WINTER VEGETABLES in Melbourne, Australia

BITTER GREENS and AMARI (Aperitivi and Digestivi)

Below, wild greens seller in Sicily.

EASTER IN SICILY: Faith, Spring, History and Cassata

Easter in Sicily is more than a religious celebration; it’s a mix of faith, spring and history. It is a time when the sacred rituals and the everyday come together. It reminds people of the past, celebrates the present, and looks forward to the future with hope.

Religion, especially Catholicism, is at the heart of life in Sicily, and this is most visible during Holy Week and the Easter Celebrations. From Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday, towns and cities across the island are filled with devotion and tradition.

On Good Friday, processions move slowly through the old streets. During the week churches are filled with music, the smell of incense, and quiet prayers; these rituals passed down through generations.

Easter Sunday marks the resurrection of Christ and brings a sense of festivity after the solemn days leading up to it. But Easter also connects with something older and more natural: the arrival of spring. As winter fades, nature comes back to life—trees bud, flowers bloom, and the days grow longer. It’s a time of new beginnings and hope.

Some Easter traditions in Sicily have roots that go back even further than Christianity. In Enna, for example, a priest blesses the fields, praying for good crops and weather. This ceremony likely comes from ancient agricultural customs.

One of the most striking events is the procession of fifteen local confraternities, each with its own unique clothing and customs. This tradition dates back to the 15th to 17th centuries and shows the influence of Spanish rule on Sicilian religious life. I was in Enna during easter time a while back.

With any festivity in Sicily, food plays an essential role—and Easter is no exception.

Alongside the religious rituals and springtime renewal, special dishes take centre stage.

One of the most iconic Easter desserts is the elaborate Sicilian cassata

While there are several versions of cassata – including a frozen ricotta and sponge cake version known as cassata gelata, and a baked pastry version filled with sweetened ricotta, known as cassata in forno, the most famous is the traditional highly decorated cassata.

Cassata al forno

This eye-catching, baroque-style cake is usually topped with colourful glacé fruits and candied citrus peel. It’s a dessert that isn’t typically made at home but is crafted by skilled pasticceri (pastry makers) in Sicily’s many historic pastry shops (pasticcerie).  Some that have been in operation for generations.

In this is the case with most Italians, they leave the pastry making to the experts.

The classic Sicilian cassata is made of three main parts. First, there’s a soft sponge cake, often moistened with a splash of liqueur and used to line the mould. Inside is a rich, sweetened ricotta filling, made with sheep’s milk (sweeter than cow’s milk) and mixed with small pieces of candied citrus and dark chocolate. Finally, the entire cake is covered with a layer of green marzipan or a smooth glaze of sugar icing, then decorated with intricate patterns and colourful candied fruits.

But cassata is more than just a dessert – it’s a layered representation of Sicily’s complex cultural and historical past and its origins are believed to reflect the many cultures that have shaped the island. The name cassata may come from the Arabic qas’ah, meaning “bowl,” referring to the traditional mould used to shape the cake. The Arabs introduced sugar to Sicily, along with candied fruits, which are key ingredients in the cake. The sponge cake, called Pan di Spagna in Italian, likely came from the Spanish, while the elaborate icing and presentation were influenced by the Monsù – French-trained chefs who worked in aristocratic Sicilian households in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Some of these chefs were French, while others came from Piedmont, a region in northern Italy that was under French control during that time. These Monsù added a touch of French elegance and flair to traditional Sicilian cooking, turning simple ingredients into refined and artistic dishes. Cassata, with its rich mix of flavours, textures, and cultural layers, is a perfect example.

While the traditional cassata is a showstopper, not everyone has the time, or the team of expert pasticceri to make such an elaborate creation.

I have made many cassate (plural) at home, the last one was probably approximately three years ago.

Tastes change, people’s diets do as well and I now have a more enjoyable method of utilising the same delectable flavours in a simpler manner. By employing the classic ingredients, I have crafted various versions of a deconstructed cassata-inspired dessert, such as the deconstructed cassata below where I added strawberries. I have made a few of these and they have always been a success.

the next time, I intend to serve the deconstructed cassata in a large wine glass. This presentation will be both easy to prepare and visually appealing. Furthermore, my previous deconstructed cassata retains the essence of the original, while eliminating the complexities associated with traditional preparation.

Deconstructed Cassata in a Glass

Ingredients (4 – 6 people)

* 500 g fresh ricotta, combined with a splash of thick cream (adjust the quantity to achieve a creamy consistency)

* 100 g caster sugar (or honey or Monk Fruit, as a sugar substitute)

* A few drops of vanilla concentrate

* Orange and citron (cedro) peel, soaked in Cointreau for at least a couple of hours. I use this French Liqueur because it is very orange flavoured.

* Small pieces of exceptionally dark chocolate

* Savoiardi (sponge fingers or Pan di Spagna/sponge cake) for use as a base or topping. Please refer to the “To Serve” section below for an estimate of the required quantities.

Marzipan leaves

* 100 g blanched almond meal

* 100 g icing sugar

* 1 egg white

* 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

* 1 drop of green food dye

Method:

Combine the marzipan ingredients in a bowl and knead until smooth. If the mixture is excessively wet, add more almond meal or sugar. I frequently a greater ratio to sugar.  Roll the marzipan thinly between two sheets of baking paper and cut into leaf shapes. These marzipan leaves serve as a delightful garnish and a playful tribute to the traditional decoration.

To Serve:

Experiment with the composition of the dessert. Here are a couple of suggestions:

* Place 1-2 Savoiardi (sponge fingers) or some sponge cake on the bottom of the glass and lightly brush it with the reserved Cointreau.

* Spread the creamy ricotta mixture over the sponge layer.

* Top the ricotta layer with another layer of sponge or savoiardi moistened with the reserved Cointreau. Top with some Marzipan leaves.

Alternatively, you can create a layered dessert by alternating between the ricotta mixture and the sponge layer, with each layer lightly brushed with Cointreau.

I prefer this one:

*Spoon generous layers of the ricotta mixture into large wine glasses.

*Garnish with marzipan leaves and 1-2 dry Savoiardi biscuits (not soaked in Cointreau) nestled into the glass, allowing you to scoop up the ricotta with the biscuits. Top with Marzipan leaves. Drink Cointreau on the side.

These are versions of reimagined cassata – less formal, enjoyable and may be more sympathetic of people’s tastes and diet, but still embodying Sicilian character. Ideal for when you desire to serve something visually appealing and steeped in tradition, without dedicating hours to the kitchen.

CASSATA DECONSTRUCTED; a postmodernist take on Sicilian Cassata

EASTER (Pasqua) in Sicily

CASSATA Explained with photos

CASSATA ( Post no. 2) Calls for a celebration!!!

EASTER SICILIAN SPECIALTIES …. Cuddura cù ova, Pecorelle Pasquali

SCACCE and PIZZA and SICILIAN EASTER

EASTER IN SICILY – A SICILIAN FEAST IN RAGUSA – Recipes and Giuggiulena

EASTER (Pasqua) in Sicily

 

MANNA IN SICILY(ORTIGIA)

This is how I found Manna in Sicily: In 2009, I stumbled upon something unexpected while wandering through the bustling market of Ortigia in Syracuse.

Concealed behind the stalls of local produce, including fruits, vegetables, meats, and fish, I discovered a diverse array of unfamiliar and curious ingredients. within a diminutive and captivating shop.

The shop was filled with sacks, boxes, unusual jars, and tins, each containing a treasure trove of smells and visual delights.

Among them was the most intriguing substance – Manna – the Manna I had only encountered mentioned in the Bible.

How entrancing to find that Manna is a crystalline resin, extracted from the bark of ash trees and it doesn’t rain down from heaven.

The shop, aptly named Il Mago Delle Spezie (The Wizard of Spices), was owned by Antonio Drago, a master of culinary alchemy (especially Sicilian) who was more than willing to chat about his aromatic collection. Drago’s offerings showcased an array of local, ancient produce and exotic spices, many originating from distant lands.

My encounter with Antonio Drago left a lasting impression; he was full of stories about the origins of local food and ancient methods.

So, after all this time why am I writing about manna?

A friend recently shared an article from the BBC discussing the revival of manna harvesting in Sicily, and suddenly, memories of that magical shop in Ortigia came flooding back. I remembered discovering this ancient “superfood” and the curious wizard who introduced me to it. As I read about how Manna is now being harvested again in the Madonie mountains, I reflected on my first encounter with this biblical ingredient in that small, mysterious shop that sparked a deeper curiosity about its place in Sicily’s rich, culinary heritage.

There are a number of recipes on the web written in Italian that utilise this ingredient in the place of sugar in cakes, biscuits, beverages, creams and ice cream. it is also a product that is beneficial for the skin.

I looked up Antonio Drago and found a reference on the net, written in Italian about his business and how with the help of his two sons it evolved into bigger premises. Here is what I found:

Antonio Drago’s Journey: From Spice Shop to Culinary Haven

This is a summary and translation of the text. In some places, I have purposely retained some of the illustrative, fanciful language.

In the heart of Syracuse, nestled near the historic market of Ortigia, you’ll find “Drogheria Drago con cucina” at Via Benedictis 20. This charming establishment has evolved since its founding in October 1972, under the rising moon and the alignment of Mercury, Mars, and Jupiter. It was born under the protection of Mercury, the patron of merchants, and the success driven by the combative spirit of Mars.

Originally, the small shop was focused on selling “colonial” goods – ancient, traditional local home-made produce as well as imported spices, herbs, and aromas. Over time, the store expanded to include a variety of local agricultural and fishing products: sun-dried Pachino tomato paste, Trapani salt-cured capers, Avola almonds, Etna pistachios, tuna and swordfish bottarga, and red tuna and mackerel fillets preserved in oil or salted.

Antonio’s two sons – Luciano and Francesco – grew up and eagerly joined the venture. They decided to renovate the space and add a kitchen for preparing and serving local dishes. Thus, “Drogheria Drago con cucina” where customers can enjoy traditional dishes alongside a wide selection of spices, local products, and specialties from the region.

Manna: A Biblical Superfood Revived in Sicily. A summary of the BBC article

Manna is mentioned 17 times in the Bible. It turns out to be an ancient resin harvested from ash trees, traditionally found in the Mediterranean. Once a key part of the local economy, manna harvesting almost vanished with urbanisation and industrialisation over the past 80 years. But today, a revival is underway.

Manna is collected from the bark of Fraxinus ornus trees, where thick lines of the white, mineral-rich resin ooze. It has a honey-like sweetness with almond undertones, and it was once used as a natural sweetener, medicinal aid, and even a form of currency. Despite its decline, Sicilian farmer Giulio Gelardi has been at the forefront of its revival, dedicating himself to bringing this ancient “superfood” back to tables around the world.

In the Madonie mountains, Gelardi has spent decades perfecting the art of manna harvesting, a process that involves precise observation and intuition. Manna is not only a sweet treat but also a powerful medicinal substance, used for a variety of ailments like constipation and sore throats, and it has become an important ingredient in modern Sicilian cuisine.

Today, manna is gaining recognition globally, used by chefs in innovative dishes and even in high-end skincare products. Thanks to the efforts of people like Gelardi, this once-forgotten food is now a prized ingredient, celebrated for its taste, health benefits, and cultural significance.

https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20250328-the-return-of-sicilys-ancient-white-gold

PRICKLY PEARS Fichi d’India and a paste called Mostarda

A SIMPLE RECIPE

Here is a simple recipe to make a Ricotta Ice Cream using Manna as the sweetener. Obviously,  I have not found Manna to make this.

Beat 5 egg yolks till creamy. Add 300 g of ricotta sifted with a fork, a dash of brandy or rum and half a glass of milk in which you will have dissolved about 60g of manna. Finally pour the mixture into the ice cream maker.

Rather than brandy or rum, I would probably add an orange based liqueur (or one of your choice). This would add flavour, but also sugar and make it sweeter.

 

 

 

ZUCCHINI FLOWERS and Preserved Artichokes

My generous friend who has space in her garden for zucchini plants and is able to collect their flowers has been lavishing me with kindness once again. She surprised me with a small brown paper bag with some of her zucchini blooms.

Unfortunately, the colder temperatures and rain aren’t friends of these delicate blossoms, and I think that this last gift could be my last.

Zucchini flowers can be prepared in various interesting culinary methods. However, due to their short shelf life, I prefer to cook them the same day I receive them, regardless of my schedule.

Sometimes, the best meals come together quickly with what you have on hand. With a few fresh ingredients and a bit of creativity, you can easily make a delicious dish that’s both satisfying and flavourful.

I therefore select the easiest and quickest option taking the ingredients I have at hand to achieve a satisfactory outcome.

I had pale-skinned zucchini, spring onions, fresh basil, saffron, and a jar of preserved artichokes. Since fresh artichokes aren’t in season right now, the preserved ones in oil added just the right touch, bringing a rich and tangy flavour to the dish and transforming it into something memorable. A little stock and a generous knob of butter rounded everything off, making for a simple yet delicious pasta sauce dressing.

The photos below should explain the cooking method.

Cut zucchini in half (I used 3), then quarters, and toss in hot pan with extra virgin olive oil. Cook for about 5 minutes. I like to cook these separately and not overcook them to preserve their unique flavour and their shape. Remove them from the pan and set aside. 

Slice 3 spring onions and sauté in extra virgin olive oil.

Add the flowers and basil, then sauté briefly. At this stage I also added a bit of saffron that I had been soaking in about 1/2 cup of stock.

I added the drained artichokes (I cut them in halves), warmed them, then added the cooked zucchini.

I finished with a generous lump of butter.

The type of pasta was rigatoni.

This dish tasted and smelled like Spring, brightening our dull Melbourne day. A friend came to dinner that evening and it was her first time for zucchini flowers.

She left very content.  

ZUCCHINI FLOWERS, A Simple, Sweet Delight

STUFFED ZUCCHINI FLOWERS

EGG PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI FLOWERS, ZUCCHINI, PINE NUTS and STRACCIATELLA (egg drop)

 

ZUCCHINI FLOWERS, A Simple, Sweet Delight

When a friend generously shares some of her freshly picked zucchini flowers from her garden, don’t you simply hug her?

As an ingredient, zucchini flowers are treasured in various cuisines for their subtle flavour and unique texture. Of course, this is the case in Italy. 

I wanted to cook them very simply to preserve the delicate, sweet taste of the flowers. Basil is a soft herb and plentiful at the moment growing on my balcony. I made a frittata and a pasta sauce – both delicate and sweet tasting.

What Are Zucchini Flowers? 

Zucchini flowers (courgette flowers in some parts of the world) are the edible blooms from the zucchini plant. Typically, the male flowers are harvested for culinary purposes, as they do not develop into zucchini. Male flowers feature a long, thin stalk, whereas female flowers sit at the end of the budding fruit. Their yellow-orange petals are visually appealing, and they have a mild, slightly sweet flavour that complements a variety of dishes. 

Due to their delicate nature, zucchini flowers are tricky to purchase. They wilt quickly after being picked, which makes them a rare find in supermarkets and even at farmers’ markets. Occasionally, they might be sold still attached to the zucchini, which helps preserve their freshness. And this is why I am so grateful when a friend takes time to collect them and bring them fresh. 

I stored them in a glass bowl, sealed them and put them in the fridge. The first day I used them to make a frittata. She bought me some more the next day and I cooked a pasta dish (recipe below).

Culinary Uses  

Zucchini flowers are a versatile ingredient and can be prepared in numerous ways. A popular method is to stuff them, dipping them in batter before gently frying them to create a crispy, savoury treat. When preparing zucchini flowers, it’s important to handle them with care so gently wash them under cold water. The stamen from inside the flower can be removed if you wish.  

To stuff zucchini flowers, carefully open the petals and place a small spoonful of filling inside. Gently twist the petals to close them around the stuffing. Dip the stuffed flowers in a light batter and fry them in hot oil until golden brown. They are delicious starter dish.  

They can also be used for frittata, soups, and pasta dishes.

PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI, BASIL AND ZUCCHINI FLOWERS

This fresh, simple yet elegant pasta dish uses sautéed zucchini, with quite a bit of fresh basil leaves and stock. I used spirally and once dressed in this buttery, aromatic sauce, I topped the pasta with lightly sautéed zucchini flowers and more basil. There was plenty of grated Parmesan cheese for a perfect finishing touch. I also grated some fresh nutmeg on to the pasta to complement its’ fresh taste. I used Parmesan because it is more delicate than Pecorino and as an alternative, I would have been happy with fresh ricotta.

 

For 2-4 people, depending if it is an entrée or main

Ingredients:

6 zucchini, (or more) sliced or cut into cubes

4 tbsp butter (divided)

20+fresh basil leaves

stock – vegetable or chicken (about 1cup)

200g (or more) short pasta

12 zucchini flowers, gently cleaned

freshly grated Parmesan cheese, to serve

salt and pepper to taste

freshly ground nutmeg

Instructions:

Cook Zucchini:  In a large pan, melt 2 tablespoon of butter over medium heat. Add the zucchini, season with salt and pepper, and sauté for about 10 -15 minutes until it softens and begins to caramelize. Add splashes stock if it starts to stick. Pour in the rest of the stock and cook to your liking Add about half of the basil leaves during the last couple minutes of cooking so they infuse the zucchini with their fragrance. Once done, set aside and keep warm.

Cook the Pasta: While the veggies cook, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and cook the pasta according to the package instructions. Reserve a little pasta cooking water before draining, in case you need to thin out your sauce. My pasta had sufficient stock and I did not need to do this.

Sauté the Zucchini Flowers: While the pasta cooks, heat the remaining butter in a small pan over medium heat. Add the zucchini flowers and sauté quickly for a couple of minutes until they wilt slightly. Add the fresh basil leaves sauté until they slightly soften. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Assemble the Dish: Once the pasta is drained, toss it into the pan with the cooked zucchini mixture. If the sauce looks too thick, add a little of the reserved pasta cooking water to help coat the pasta. Stir everything together to ensure the pasta is well-coated

Serve: Plate the pasta, and top with the sautéed zucchini flowers. Grate some fresh nutmeg on top

Present it with freshly grated Parmesan cheese (and a few extra basil leaves for garnish, if you wish).

Below: photo of Ravioloni (large ravioli) with zucchini flowers pan fried in some butter and sage as a dressing.

The frittata was extremely simple. I had some Brie in the fridge (cut into large slices) and used the flowers, fresh basil leaves, eggs and Brie. Once again I used butter.

EGG PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI FLOWERS, ZUCCHINI, PINE NUTS and STRACCIATELLA (egg drop) 

STUFFED ZUCCHINI FLOWERS

MAKING FRITTATA Podcast with Maria Liberati

 

 

FISH STUDDED WITH FLAVOURS

Fish cutlets (or portions) studded with flavours (herbs and spices) is something that I make quite often and is a versatile dish that keeps on evolving. I began this recipe by inserting Sicilian flavours – cinnamon, cloves, lemon peel, garlic, fennel, oregano, parsley, and degalzing the fish with dry Marsala and then the recipe evolved from there.

The beauty of this dish is its adaptability—I can’t recall ever making it the same way twice! Each time I prepare it, I change the flavours I use to insert into the fish and it becomes a new taste sensation each time. Whether it’s herbs, different spices, or different types of liquids to deglaze, the possibilities are endless.

For instance, I love using herbs, which vary depending on the season. And when it comes to deglazing the pan, I  use anything from a splash of wine (or other alcohol), to stock . And the result is a dish that feels new with every iteration.

There is a recipe for this style of cooking in my book Sicilian Seafood Cooking –  Tunnu Ammuttunatu (Sicilian) or Pesce Staccato e con Marsala (Italian) and in English, it translates to Tuna Studded with Flavours and Braised in Marsala.

Over the years, I’ve made subtle adjustments to the recipe, fine-tuning it to match my evolving tastes, the people I am feeding and the ingredients available.

I also have another related recipe in this blog where I used Trevally as the fish: it is a perfect example of how adaptable this method can be.

Recently, I experimented with mackerel, adding capers to deglaze the pan (some of my guests do not drink alcohol), but the capers added an extra layer of briny taste. Pretty good and different again.

Here’s the original recipe from my book, Sicilian Seafood Cooking:

Tunnu ammuttunatu
Pesce steccato e con marsala
Fish, studded with flavours and braised in marsala

I like to use a whole fillet of fish, which I estimate will feed no more than
four people when cut into portions. For more people, I buy two fillets.

I like to serve this very pink in the centre, but it will not suffer if it is cooked longer, as done in Sicily. Long whole fillets will not cook evenly and can be adventageous as it provides well cooked and rare tuna eaters a choice.

Individual portions of large fish or tuna can also be studded and cooked in this manner.

Stud the flesh with one or more flavours – garlic (halved), cloves, a
cinnamon stick (broken into small pieces) – and a herb, (mint, rosemary
or oregano).

Below, various cuts of tuna in an open Sicilian market in Acireale, north of Catania.

Ingredients

1-1.2kg tuna fillet
1 cup dry marsala

flavourings (see intro)
1/2 to1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
3 fresh bay leaves
mint leaves for serving

Processes

Use a knife with a long thin blade and make a number of deep, regularly
spaced slits in the fillet. Insert flavourings (see above) into each slit. When
you cut the fillet into portions, each portion should have four slits.

Heat oil in a pan and seal the fish on all sides. Add marsala and bay
leaves and reduce slightly, cover and braise over low heat. Add more
marsala (or water) if the dish is drying out.

A fillet of four portions cooks in about 15–20 minutes. To test, insert a metal skewer into the centre – if it is done the skewer will be just warm to the touch. If it feels cool, cook
for a little longer.

Place the fish on a large platter, pour over the sauce and scatter with mint.

And if you’re interested in exploring the Trevally version, here’s the link to the full recipe on my blog:

FISH STUDDED WITH SICILIAN FLAVOURS

ZUCCHINI WITH CURRANTS, PINE NUTS and SAFFRON

The vibrant combination of currants, pine nuts, fennel seeds and saffron brings out the best in zucchini, turning them into something truly special and unusual for most people who may not be familiar with some of these Sicilian flavours.   The combination of these ingredients create rich, complex flavours, both sweet and savory. The result is perfect for any gathering or as a meal at home.

This dish can be enjoyed served cold as a salad, warm or hot as a side or with pasta. It also makes a good strater.

Sometimes I get caught up in thinking that my everyday recipes aren’t worth sharing, but whenever I serve the different versions of this zucchini dish, I always receive compliments from friends, so it’s time to share the recipe.

If you have ever grown zucchini (or zucchine, is the plural form in Italian!), you know that they quickly multiply, leaving you with an abundance, or as some say – a zucchini glut. I remind growers that zucchini flowers are delicious stuffed, in a frittata or in pasta and I am surprised that many people are not aware of  cooking the flowers. They are also delicious incorporated into this pasta dish.

Those fast-growing squashes turn into rather monstrous vegetables if not harvested quickly (called zucche in Italian once they get to a certain size). These are OK in soups, some people stuff them.

Sautéing onions in olive oil forms the base of this zucchini dish, and you gradually add the other ingredients, each enhancing the others. Depending on your preferences, you can keep the zucchini slightly al dente for a salad and cook them down further for a warm side dish or as a pasta dressing.

A Familiar Flavour in Sicilian cooking 

Those familiar with the Sicilian recipe Pasta con le sarde (pasta with sardines)  , or my recipe for pasta with cauliflower, sultanas, currants and anchovies, both on my blog will notice that the ingredients for this zucchini dish closely mirrors those same combination of flavours in those Sicilian pasta dishes. They also bring out the best in zucchini.

I sometimes add anchovies, a common ingredient in Sicilian cooking; it is a simple way to get amazing depth of flavour. On occasions I don’t use saffron and may use a few cherry tomatoes instead. In the photo below, in the jar, are the anchovies.

A splash of white wine and a little vegetable or chicken stock when braising the zucchini  are ingredients that are common in most of my cooking.

Ingredients

For this dish, I usually estimate two small zucchini per person. If they are very small increase the quantities. Here’s what you’ll need:

8 small zucchini (around 2 per person)

4 tablespoons currants (soaked in a cup of warm water)

1 large onion, chopped

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

4 anchovies, finely chopped (optional, but they bring an incredible depth of flavour, use more or less)

2 bay leaves

1 handful fresh parsley, finely chopped

1 tablespoon fennel seeds

3-4 tablespoons pine nuts (toast them beforehand for an extra flavour boost)

1 small teaspoon saffron, soaked in warm water (let it infuse for at least 30 minutes)

salt, to taste, crushed dried chilies (optional, for a bit of heat) or black pepper

Preparation

Cut the zucchini into small batons or thin rings, depending on your preference. I prefer batons for a more unusual cut, but rings work beautifully too.

 

 In a large frying pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the chopped onion and sauté until it becomes soft and translucent. The aroma will already start to fill your kitchen!

Add the anchovies (optional): If using anchovies, add them now, allowing them to melt into the oil. Stir gently with a wooden spoon, and let the anchovies dissolve, infusing the oil with their savory richness.

Add the zucchini pieces to the pan, along with the bay leaves and fennel seeds. Stir gently, letting the zucchini absorb the oil and spices, and allow them to colour lightly. The goal is to get them nicely coated without overcooking. Add salt at this stage but if you have used anchovies check for salt. Add chiliies if you wish.

Drain the currants and add them, the pine nuts, the chopped parsley, and the saffron (along with its soaking liquid). Season with salt and a pinch of crushed dried chilies, if using. Stir everything gently.

Cover the pan and let everything cook on low heat for about 10 -20 minutes, or until the zucchini are tender, but not mushy. You want them to maintain a slight bite, but if you prefer them softer, cook them a bit longer.

For a Pasta Dish

If you’d like to turn this into a pasta dish  here’s how to do it:

Pasta: Use 300g of dry, short pasta for 4-5 people (or more if it’s your main course).

talians often recommend about 100g of pasta per person, but in our household, 500g of pasta is just right for a first course for 6-8 people. For extra flavour, finish the pasta with some freshly grated Pecorino cheese or toasted breadcrumbs

As a topping: Grated Pecorino (is preferred for Sicilian dishes) or Toasted Breadcrumbs

Breadcrumbs: To make the breadcrumbs, lightly fry 100g of day-old, quality bread (such as sourdough or pasta dura) in a little extra virgin olive oil. Add a pinch of grated lemon peel, a dash of cinnamon, and even a bit of sugar while frying for a fragrant, slightly sweet topping. Serve the breadcrumbs separately, so guests can sprinkle them on as they like.

Cook the pasta according to package instructions, then drain it and toss it into the pan with the zucchini mixture. Let the pasta absorb the flavours for about 5 minutes before serving.

PASTA CON LE SARDE (SARDINES)

PASTA CON LE SARDE, Iconic Sicilian made easy

PASTA RIMESTATA COI CAVOFIORI; Pasta with cauliflower, sultanas, pine nuts and anchovies

EGG PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI FLOWERS, ZUCCHINI, PINE NUTS and STRACCIATELLA (egg drop)

STUFFED ZUCCHINI FLOWERS

PASTA CON ZUCCHINE FRITTE (Pasta and fried zucchini)

EGG PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI FLOWERS, ZUCCHINI, PINE NUTS and STRACCIATELLA (egg drop)

COOKING DUCK: Not Just for Special Occasions

Duck is often seen as a luxury dish reserved for special occasions, but it doesn’t have to be – whether minced, whole or breasts.

On my blog, I have some recipes that show how versatile and accessible cooking duck can be.

Sicilian Duck with Olives and Anchovies: Anatra a Papparedda cu Ulivi

In Sicilian cuisine, ducks are somewhat rare, but the flavours of Anatra a Papparedda cu Ulivi, are bold and unexpected combinations. The word ulivi means olives in Sicilian, and in this dish, green olives and anchovies in the sauce make this dish truly distinctive. The whole duck is roasted first.

Sicilian Duck with green olives and anchovies; Anatra a Papparedda cu ulivi

Duck Ragù

For a  very special pasta dish a Duck Ragù (Ragout) is a recipe that is made with minced duck, the method and ingredients are like the recipe for a traditional bolognese. A Duck and Mushroom Ragù  gives the opportunity to enjoy portions of the duck (with bones if you wish) and/or use the ragù to dress the pasta.

Egg pasta is usually the choice of pasta for game meats, but any shape of pasta will be elevated to a supreme level with duck.

RIGATONI CON RAGU: ANATRA (Duck Ragout)

DUCK AND MUSHROOM RAGÙ

Duck Breast: Simple 

Duck breasts are one of the most affordable and versatile cuts of duck. Easy to prepare, they cook quickly and, with just a few ingredients, can be transformed into an impressive dish.

The beauty of duck breast lies in its simplicity – crispy skin and tender meat, with minimal effort.

DUCK BREAST, ALCOHOL and EMBELLISHMENTS

Leftovers: Transforming Duck into New Creations

I don’t let leftovers go to waste! they either get eaten as they are or get used in other recipies to enrich the taste of the new. In the post below, I share how to take leftover pan-fried duck breasts and turn them into a completely new dish. With other added ingredients to the cooked duck breast and a drizzle of parsley oil (or even labneh), you can create a refreshing duck salad that’s as delicious as it is resourceful.

LEFTOVERS: from Duck and Dried Sour Cherries to New Dishes

Camping, easy cooking

Duck breasts cooked very quickly and very enjoyable…. even when camping.

GLAM COOKING ON THE ROAD; Camping

Cooking Potatoes with duck fat

Below, duck breasts with cumquats and roast potatoes.

Patate in teccia, hail from Trieste. The potatoes are precooked and then smashed and recooked in olive oil, but of course cooking them in duck fat makes them very special.

PATATE as a contorno (Two recipes for ‘squashed’ potatoes, Patate in tecia)

Other links:

DELVING INTO EGG PASTA

 

SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD, current information and recipes

Sustainable Seafood Choices: Making the Right Decisions, Christmas 2024.

For many people who live in Australia seafood is a staple during the Christmas  and New Year period. This may come as a suprise but, with over 6 million kilograms of prawns consumed each year during this time, it’s important to be mindful of the environmental impact of our choices.

It also a good idea to check labels for fish, for example I only buy Australian seafood and there are many reasons to buy Australian seafood – sustainability, environmental impact and quality. Australian seafood producers often have  sustainability certifications from the Marine Stewardship Council and Aquaculture Stewardship Council. 

Whether it’s prawns, oysters, or a beautiful whole fish, for most Australians it appears that the Christmas and New Year’s festive season wouldn’t feel the same without some seafood.

Not only Italians, but people of different cultures who have a Catholic background abstain from eating meat on Christmas Eve, and fish is a preferred choice.

In recent years, it has been beneficial to see information via the media guiding shoppers to make more informed, sustainable seafood choices. This is crucial not only to protect marine species, but also to ensure that we’re supporting seafood industries that are committed to the health of our oceans.

Here’s a summary of some important information and guidance from what i have read and heard on sustainable seafood in the last few weeks. Hopefully it  may help us make the right choices this holiday season. I have also included some seafood recipes at the end of this post.

The Environmental Impact of Seafood Consumption

As the demand for seafood grows, so do the pressures on our oceans and marine life, with issues like bycatch, pollution, and unsustainable farming practices becoming more widespread.

Australia’s appetite for seafood during the Christmas season has a significant environmental cost. For instance, the production of prawns can lead to habitat destruction, pollution, and unsustainable fishing practices, all of which harm marine ecosystems. Bycatch – the capture of non-target species – is a major concern, and certain farming practices, particularly for prawns, have been linked to sea bed deforestation and high pollution levels.

One of the most reliable resources for navigating the complexities of sustainable seafood is the Australian Marine Conservation Society’s GoodFish Guide, which provides helpful advice on what to buy, and what to avoid, based on the sustainability of fishing methods and farm practices.

Just like the tureen above making the right choice can be confusing, What may be sustainable in one country, state or location, will not be sustainable in another. And also, what was sustainable last year may not be on the good choice list this year. And while we are discussing changes, I have been promoting wild caught fish for many years but now, I am not so sure about making generalisations! It all depends on the fishery. (Unfortunately, I cannot remember what Art Gallery in NY this photo was from.)

Unsustainable Choices to Avoid

Some popular seafood items are unfortunately not as environmentally friendly as  promoted. This year I have been hearing strong criticism about Tasmanian salmon. Mind you, many of us already knew this, but lately the views expressed in the media have been particularly damming.

The GoodFish Guide advises against purchasing farm-raised Tasmanian salmon that has been linked to high pollution levels in the waters where it’s farmed depriving other fish of oxygen.Tasmania’s salmon farming industry has been controversial due to environmental damage, animal welfare concerns, and a lack of regulation. Salmon farming has led to dead zones in Macquarie Harbour due to low oxygen levels, and has impacted the Macquarie Harbour Wilderness World Heritage Area.

There are warnings about the potential extinction of the Maugean skate, a rare species found only in Tasmania,

There are between 40 and 120 adult Maugean skate left on the planet, and the federal government’s threatened species committee said in August 2024 the best way to save the endangered fish was to eliminate or at least dramatically cut back on salmon farming in its habitat.
The committee said there was a ‘significant correlation’ between low oxygen levels and an increase in salmon farming. Farmed fish suck up a lot of the oxygen in the water, while fish food and faeces that enter the water via the salmon pens feed oxygen-consuming bacteria causing extreme degradation of marine ecosystems surrounding these farms.
Another seafood to avoid is imported vannamei prawns (also known as white leg shrimp), commonly sourced from countries like Vietnam. These prawns are often farmed in ways that cause significant environmental damage, including water pollution and the destruction of mangroves. Furthermore, prawn farming in these regions is notorious for its high use of antibiotics and chemicals, which can harm local biodiversity and contaminate waterways.

Sustainable Alternatives for Christmas Seafood

But there are plenty of sustainable seafood options available that won’t compromise the environmental values or budget.

One great alternative offered is Australian salmon, which is native to the region and is typically caught using low-impact, sustainable methods. Unlike farmed Tasmanian salmon, wild-caught Australian salmon has a much smaller environmental footprint and provides a local, sustainable option for your Christmas feast. I have included some notes and a recipe about this fish towards the end of this post.

Farm-raised Australian prawns – especially varieties like black tiger and banana prawns – are an excellent sustainable option. These prawns are farmed in environmentally controlled systems with a much lower impact than their imported counterparts. They are often cheaper than wild-caught prawns because of lower labor costs and can be just as tasty. Additionally, some of Australia’s Spencer Gulf prawns are both affordable and sustainable, making them an excellent choice for a Christmas seafood platter.

Another more sustainable option is farm-raised barramundi. While wild-caught barramundi, particularly those caught using destructive gillnets, is often considered harmful to marine life, farmed barramundi has a far less damaging environmental impact. The Australian barramundi farming industry is highly regulated, ensuring that practices meet high environmental and animal welfare standards.

Wild-Caught vs. Farmed: Navigating the Choices

In the face of these sustainability challenges, it’s also important to consider the difference between wild-caught and farmed seafood. Both have their pros and cons. Wild-caught fish can suffer from overfishing and bycatch, especially when fisheries are poorly managed. However, Australian fisheries are typically subject to strict regulations, which means that wild-caught Australian species like prawns, barramundi, and rock lobster are generally more sustainable than wild-caught seafood from other regions.

Farmed seafood, on the other hand, can be more environmentally friendly if the farming practices are responsible. In fact, well-managed fish farms can actually have a smaller carbon footprint and less environmental impact than some forms of wild-caught fishing. It’s key to check where and how the seafood is farmed. Sustainable farms use environmentally responsible practices such as efficient feed management, waste control, and low-impact farming systems.

Sustainable Seafood: Affordable Options for Every Budget

Sustainable seafood can sometimes be more expensive, but there are affordable options available. For example, Australian salmon and farmed prawns are not only eco-friendly choices but are also budget-friendly compared to some of their imported or wild-caught alternatives. By opting for these, we can support local industries and make a real difference in the health of our oceans.

This Christmas, consider making a conscious decision to choose sustainable options. Not only will you be making a positive impact on the environment, but you’ll also be supporting Australia’s local fishing and farming communities, ensuring that these industries remain viable for future generations.

In summary, being an informed seafood consumer doesn’t have to be difficult. By using resources like the GoodFish guide and prioritising sustainable Australian seafood, we can all enjoy delicious meals that are kind to the planet.

From Australian salmon and farmed prawns to sustainably farmed barramundi, there are plenty of options that are both eco-friendly and affordable. It’s about making smarter choices, so that we can continue to enjoy the bounty of the ocean – without compromising its future.

Recipes

Not all sustainable seafood is mentioned in what I have read or listened to. For example squid, mussels and sardines have always been on the better choice list. Explore the options:

GoodFish Guide

There are many recipes for Mussels, Squid and Sardines on my blog, far too many to list here. Here are just a few.

MUSSELS, three ways: in brodetto, with spaghetti and in a risotto with saffron

NDUJA, SQUID, VONGOLE AND PAN GRATTATO with Spaghetti

GRILLED CALAMARI (CALAMARI ‘NTA BRACI (Sicilian) – CALAMARI ALLA BRACE (Italian)

SARDINES, grilled or barbecued with Sicilian dressings

There are far too many recipes for seafood on my blog (pasta, rice, raw, cooked in various ways), but this link could be helpful:

LA VIGILIA (Christmas Eve revisited)

This year, Australian salmon seems to feature strongly as a sustainable choice. This fish was abundant in South Australia where I lived for many years and I am used to cooking it. But because it is a strong tasting fish, I would recommend baking it  whole or filleted and using strong flavours like anchovies, garlic and onion.  The flavour of this fish also responds to strong tasting herbs. I would never cook it by steaming or enveloping with foil to bake; it is far too fishy, even for me.

BAKED FISH WITH POTATOES, VINEGAR and ANCHOVIES

Cooking Autralian salmon on a grill on the BBQ will also suit this fish. The charred flavour will mask the fishy taste of the fish and enhance the flavour. Think of sardines on the BBQ and how delicious they are when cooked this way.

Strong tasting sauces will complement the taste of the fish.
And consider using strong tasting herbs and plenty of them, either when cooking  strong tasting fish or for the sauces.

SARDINES, grilled or barbecued with Sicilian dressings

PASTA CON LE SARDE (SARDINES)  (strong flavours – fennel, saffron, currants)

SAUCES for meat, fish and vegetables to brighten up your Christmas

Enjoy cooking, eating, sharing and talking about food!

ROASTED CHARRED PEPPERS

The charred elegance of roasted peppers -—simple, bold, and unforgettable!

Peppers (capsicums) charred on a grill capture the essence of Sicilian cuisine. Simple, colourful, fragrant and full of  flavour, this dish transforms humble ingredients into a culinary triumph.

Fresh basil, garlic and good extra virgin olive oil is all that is needed for a tasty salad, but I often keep more in the fridge to add to other dishes.

The Peperoni (peppers) are known as Pipi Arrustuti in Sicilian and Peperoni Arrostiti in Italian. Although they are grilled Arrostiti means roasted.

Especially perfect for summer and autumn when peppers are at their best.

Grilled peppers are versatile and can enhance a variety of dishes with their smoky, sweet flavor and are a fantastic way to add colour, flavour, and nutrition to almost any dish!

My preferred way is to present the Peperoni Arrostiti as an antipasto alongside crusty bread, as a topping for grilled meats, or even as a side dish. Its vibrant colours and robust flavors make it a show-stopping addition to any meal.

Peeling the peppers without rinsing preserves their intense smoky depth.

Peperoni Arrostiti, Roast Peppers

Below some serving suggestions:

Below, roast peppers surrownding some ricotta.

I usually add left over peppers to other salads, either made with uncooked vegetables or cooked, for example :

  • Toss grilled peppers with cucumbers, cherry tomatoes, herbs, black olives, red onion, a drizzle of good olive oil and lemon juice.
  • Combine grilled peppers with grains like quinoa, farro etc, along with rocket, pulses like chickpeas or  any type of beans, roasted pumpkin or grilled zucchini or eggplant and perhaps a tahini dressing.

Ingredients

Peppers: 6, any color (a mix is ideal, with red peppers offering a sweeter note).
extra virgin olive Oil: 1/2 cup
garlic: 3 cloves, chopped
tomatoes: 2 whole, firm and red
basil leaves: About 3/4 cup, torn
salt and black pepper: To taste

Optional Variations:

Mint: replace basil for a fresh twist, a favourite among some parts of Sicily.

Lemon Juice: add a squeeze before serving, a common touch in southern Sicily, especially in Ragusa.

Toasted breadcrumbs (tossed in a hot frypan with a little extra virgin olive oil):  some Sicilians sprinkle toasted breadcrumbs on the grilled peppers before serving. This is also a favourite topping for caponata.

Below, a photo of street food assold from the streets of Palermo.

Process

1. Roast the Peppers

Place the peppers on a BBQ grill over intense heat. Turn them frequently until the skin is blistered and puffy. Once charred, remove them from the grill and place them in a bowl, covering it with a plate or lid. This step allows the peppers to steam, making the skins easier to peel. Alternatively, wrap them in paper or place them in a plastic bag as my mother and relatives often do. Let them sit for at least 10 minutes.

2. Prepare the Tomatoes

Grill the tomatoes briefly until their skins split and char. This process takes only 1-2 minutes. Remove and set aside to cool.

3. Peel and Clean

Using your fingers, peel away the skins of both the peppers and tomatoes, scraping off as much charred skin as possible. Avoid rinsing to preserve the flavor. Split the peppers and remove the seeds, then tear both the peppers and tomatoes into rough strips.

4. Assemble the Dish

Place the torn peppers and tomatoes into a bowl. Add the slivered garlic and torn basil leaves. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil, season with salt and black pepper, and gently toss to combine.

5. Marinate

Let the mixture marinate for at least 30 minutes before serving. The flavors deepen beautifully if allowed to rest overnight.

You can also roast hot peppers/chillies to add to this salad or store them in extra virgin olive oil in the fridge to use elewhere,for example for making Harissa..

See recipe for Harissa.

Harissa made with fresh Chillies

SALSA ROMESCO (Romesco sauce, this recipe is made with roasted peppers, tomatoes and almonds)

ANTIPASTO – GRILLED SUMMER VEGETABLES AND A SCOOP OF SALADS