Category: Events, Christmas and Easter

Pasta con le Sarde: A Simple recipe for a Sicilian Classic

Pasta con le Sarde is one of Sicily’s most iconic dishes, a simple yet deeply expressive recipe that brings together sardines, fennel, and ingredients that reflect the island’s long and layered history.

**On my blog, there are numerous recipes for Pasta con le Sarde written over many years with many photographs and va. However, I have created a simpler recipe for those who prefer a quicker cooking method during the often busy Christmas season. I had also prepared this recipe for the SBS Italian radio session but there was no time to discuss it. (I always over prepare!) The Italian link to the recipe:PASTA CON LE SARDE, RICETTA SEMPLICE

Sardines are plentiful in Sicilian waters, wild fennel grows freely when in season, and flavours such as pine nuts, currants, and saffron speak clearly of the Arab influence that shaped so much of Sicilian cooking. The finishing touch, muddica atturrata — toasted breadcrumbs — replaces cheese and is unmistakably Sicilian.

I will most likely consider Pasta con le Sarde for the Festive Christmas period.

A Dish Rooted in Sicilian Tradition

This is a dish born of necessity and ingenuity. In Sicily, pasta is eaten almost daily, and pasta con le sarde has long been a way to transform humble, accessible ingredients into something memorable.

When wild fennel is unavailable, cultivated fennel works well. I use the bulb, the fronds, and sometimes a small amount of fennel seed to echo the aroma of the wild plant. Wild fennel is seasonal and in Sicily it is sold in bunches in markets. Sicilians would respect the seasonality of wild fennel and probably cook Pasta con le Sarde  in the right seasons.

Bucatini is my preferred pasta shape, but spaghetti is equally suitable.

Bucatini con Sarde
Ingredients

  • 500 g bucatini, preferred traditional pasta

  • 700 g fresh sardines, cleaned and filleted

  • 200 g wild fennel
    (or 2 large fennel bulb with fronds + 1 tsp fennel seeds)

  • Approximately 3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

  • 2 onions, finely sliced

  • 4 anchovy fillets

  • 1 cup pine nuts

  • 1 cup toasted almonds, roughly chopped (optional)

  • ¾ cup currants

  • ½–1 tsp saffron

  • Salt and black pepper

  • ***4–5 tbsp breadcrumbs, toasted in a frypan with little extra virgin oil. I like to add a pinch of sugar and cinnamon while it is toasting and some finely grated lemon peel.

Method (Simple)
1. Cook the fennel

Boil the wild fennel in salted water for 10–15 minutes.
Reserve the fragrant green cooking water for the pasta.
Drain, squeeze well, and finely chop.

If using cultivated fennel:
Cut the bulb into quarters and boil with the fennel seeds. Save the fronds for later. If there are fennel stalks boil them as well to flavour the water.  Remove the stalks and seeds (drain), chop the fennel, and reserve the water to cook the pasta.

2. Prepare the sauce

In a wide pan, gently cook the onions in the olive oil until soft and golden.

Add the anchovy fillets and stir until they dissolve,
then the pine nuts, currants, and almonds (if using).

Add two-thirds of the sardines, roughly chopped, along with salt, pepper, and some fennel fronds (or a little of the chopped fennel).
Cook gently for 5–10 minutes.

Stir in the cooked fennel and saffron dissolved in a little warm water.

3. Cook the pasta

Cook the bucatini in the reserved fennel water until al dente.
Drain well.

4. Cook the remaining sardines

In a separate pan, lightly fry the remaining sardine fillets.
Set aside for finishing the dish.

5. Assemble

Add the pasta to the sardine sauce and toss gently.
Allow it to rest for 5–10 minutes so the flavours can meld.

Carefully fold in the whole sardine fillets.
Serve topped generously with muddica atturrata.

I did not blanch the almonds in this version of Pasta con Le Sarde. I do not always blanch nuts or toast them to remove their skins.
6. IF YOU WISH TO MAKE THE BAKED VERSION

Grease an oven dish and dust with toasted breadcrumbs.
Layer pasta and sauce, adding a few whole sardines between layers.
Finish with breadcrumbs, a drizzle of olive oil, and optionally a pinch of sugar and cinnamon.

Bake at 200°C for about 10 minutes, until a light crust forms.

SOME OF THE NUMEROUS RECIPES ON MY BLOG

A TASTE OF PALERMO: Pasta con le Sarde

PASTA CON LE SARDE (SARDINES)

PASTA CON LE SARDE, Iconic Sicilian made easy

WILD FENNEL and photos

Recipe in my book, Sicilian Seafood Cooking

PASTA CON LE SARDE, an iconic Sicilian recipe from Palermo. Cooked at Slow Food Festival Melbourne

PASTA CON LE SARDE (Pasta with sardines, from Palermo, made with fennel, pine nuts and currants)

PASTA CON SARDE : the baked version, Palermo, Sicily

MY FAMILY FEAST SBS ONE, my recipes have been selected

WILD FENNEL and photos

PASTA CON LE SARDE, RICETTA SEMPLICE

La Pasta con le Sarde è uno dei piatti più iconici della Sicilia: una ricetta semplice ma profondamente espressiva, che unisce le sarde al finocchio e a ingredienti che raccontano la storia lunga e stratificata dell’isola.

****Sul mio blog ci sono numerose versioni della Pasta con le Sarde, scritte nel corso di molti anni, accompagnate da tante fotografie e varianti. Tuttavia, ho creato questa versione più semplice per chi preferisce un metodo di preparazione più rapido, (forse preferito in Australia e altri in diverse parti nel mondo), soprattutto nel periodo natalizio, spesso molto intenso. Avevo preparato questa ricetta anche per una sessione radiofonica su SBS Italian, ma non c’è stato tempo per parlarne (come sempre, preparo troppo!).

Le sarde sono abbondanti nei mari siciliani, il finocchietto selvatico cresce spontaneamente quando è di stagione, e sapori come pinoli, uvetta e zafferano parlano chiaramente dell’influenza araba che ha segnato profondamente la cucina siciliana. Il tocco finale, la muddica atturrata – pangrattato tostato – sostituisce il formaggio ed è inconfondibilmente siciliano.

Molto probabilmente prenderò in considerazione la Pasta con le Sarde anche per il periodo delle feste natalizie.

Un piatto radicato nella tradizione siciliana

Questo è un piatto nato dalla necessità e dall’ingegno. In Sicilia la pasta si consuma quasi ogni giorno, e la pasta con le sarde è da sempre un modo per trasformare ingredienti umili e facilmente reperibili in qualcosa di memorabile.

Quando il finocchietto selvatico non è disponibile, quello coltivato funziona molto bene. Io utilizzo il bulbo, le barbe e talvolta una piccola quantità di semi di finocchio per richiamare l’aroma della pianta selvatica. Il finocchietto selvatico è stagionale e in Sicilia viene venduto a mazzi nei mercati. I siciliani rispettano la

Pasta con le Sarde,

stagionalità del finocchietto e tradizionalmente cucinano la Pasta con le Sarde solo nel periodo giusto.

Il bucatino è il formato di pasta che preferisco, ma anche gli spaghetti sono perfettamente adatti.

Pasta con Sarde

Bucatini con le Sarde

INGREDIENTI

  • 500 g di bucatini (formato tradizionale preferito)
  • 700 g di sarde fresche, pulite e sfilettate
  • 200 g di finocchietto selvatico
    (oppure 2 grossi finocchi con le barbe + 1 cucchiaino di semi di finocchio)
  • Circa ¾ di tazza di olio extravergine d’oliva
  • 2 cipolle, affettate finemente
  • 4 filetti di acciuga
  • 1 tazza di pinoli
  • 1 tazza di mandorle tostate, grossolanamente tritate (facoltative)
  • ¾ di tazza di uvetta
  • ½–1 cucchiaino di zafferano
  • Sale e pepe nero

Muddica atturrata:

  • 4–5 cucchiai di pangrattato, tostato in padella con poco olio extravergine.
    Mi piace aggiungere un pizzico di zucchero e cannella durante la tostatura, e un po’ di scorza di limone finemente grattugiata.

METODO (VERSIONE SEMPLICE)

  1. CUOCERE IL FINOCCHIO

Lessare il finocchietto selvatico in acqua salata per 10–15 minuti.
Conservare l’acqua di cottura, profumata e verde, per cuocere la pasta.
Scolare, strizzare bene e tritare finemente.

Se si usa il finocchio coltivato:
Tagliare il bulbo in quarti e lessarlo insieme ai semi di finocchio. Tenere da parte le barbe per dopo. Se presenti, bollire anche i gambi per aromatizzare l’acqua. Eliminare gambi e semi, scolare, tritare il finocchio e conservare l’acqua per la pasta.

  1. PREPARARE IL CONDIMENTO

In una padella capiente, cuocere dolcemente le cipolle nell’olio fino a renderle morbide e dorate.

Aggiungere i filetti di acciuga e mescolare finché si sciolgono, quindi unire pinoli, uvetta e mandorle (se utilizzate).

Aggiungere circa due terzi delle sarde, tritate grossolanamente, salare e pepare, e incorporare alcune barbe di finocchio (o un po’ del finocchio tritato).
Cuocere dolcemente per 5–10 minuti.

Unire il finocchio cotto e lo zafferano sciolto in poca acqua tiepida.

  1. CUOCERE LA PASTA

Cuocere i bucatini nell’acqua di cottura del finocchio fino a quando sono al dente.
Scolare bene.

  1. CUOCERE LE SARDE RIMANENTI

In una padella a parte, friggere leggermente i filetti di sarda rimasti.
Tenere da parte per la fase finale.

  1. ASSEMBLARE IL PIATTO

Unire la pasta al condimento di sarde e mescolare delicatamente.
Lasciare riposare per 5–10 minuti affinché i sapori si amalgamino.

Incorporare con delicatezza i filetti di sarda interi.
Servire con abbondante muddica atturrata.

In questa versione della Pasta con le Sarde non ho sbollentato le mandorle. Non sempre elimino la pellicina della frutta secca né la tosto.

  1. VERSIONE AL FORNO (FACOLTATIVA)

Ungere una pirofila e spolverarla con pangrattato tostato.
Disporre a strati la pasta e il condimento, inserendo qualche filetto di sarda intero tra uno strato e l’altro.

Completare con pangrattato, un filo d’olio e, a piacere, un pizzico di zucchero e cannella.

Cuocere in forno a 200°C per circa 10 minuti, fino a ottenere una leggera crosticina.

A TASTE OF PALERMO: Pasta con le Sarde

PASTA CON LE SARDE (SARDINES)

PASTA CON LE SARDE, Iconic Sicilian made easy

WILD FENNEL and photos

Recipe in my book, Sicilian Seafood Cooking

PASTA CON LE SARDE, an iconic Sicilian recipe from Palermo. Cooked at Slow Food Festival Melbourne

PASTA CON LE SARDE (Pasta with sardines, from Palermo, made with fennel, pine nuts and currants)

PASTA CON SARDE : the baked version, Palermo, Sicily

MY FAMILY FEAST SBS ONE, my recipes have been selected

WILD FENNEL and photos

QUADRUCCI IN BRODO – QUADRETTI DI PASTA FATTA IN CASA NEL BRODO

Quadrucci in Brodo sono uno di quei piatti di pasta fatta in casa nel brodo che per me raccontano il Natale meglio di qualsiasi menu elaborato.

Spesso mi viene chiesto cosa cucinerò per la Vigilia o per il Giorno di Natale. La verità è che non lo so sempre in anticipo. Quello che so è che, seguendo la tradizione italiana, la Vigilia è dedicata al pesce, mentre il pranzo di Natale è l’occasione per preparare qualcosa di speciale — spesso un piatto che non cucino molto spesso.

Quadrucci in Brodo is a light, yet elegant Italian Puglise dish of handmade pasta squares cooked in clear broth. A timeless first course rooted in tradition and simplicity that could be suitable during the Christmas celebration.

I had prepared this recipe in Italian case I was asked about Christmas dinner on SBS Italian radio, but we ran out of time.*** SEE RECIPE IN ENGLISH: QUADRUCCI IN BRODO, Squares of home-made Pasta in Broth

Negli anni passati ho preparato pasta con i ricci di mare, pasta con la bottarga o con le seppie al nero, oppure piatti a base di astice o granchio. (Trovate i link di queste ricette in fondo al post.)

Nella mia famiglia, però, una cosa era costante: il brodo. Dopo una Vigilia abbondante, il pranzo di Natale era più leggero, e un brodo chiaro e nutriente era l’inizio ideale.

COME HO SCOPERTO I QUADRUCCI IN BRODO

Ho scoperto i Quadrucci in Brodo nel 1984, con la pubblicazione del libro The Taste of Italy di Giuliano Bugialli. Bugialli chiama questa pasta quadrucci — piccoli quadrati. Quadro, in italiano, significa semplicemente quadrato.

Nella sua ricetta, Bugialli suggerisce di preparare il brodo con carne e ossa di tacchino. In questa occasione, però, avevo in freezer un brodo di anatra molto saporito, preparato con la carcassa dopo aver utilizzato petto e cosce per un altro piatto. È stato perfetto — ma qualsiasi buon brodo intenso va benissimo.

Bugialli definisce questo piatto come rappresentativo della Puglia, anche se lui era fiorentino. Come spesso accade nella cucina italiana, piatti semplici come questo superano i confini regionali.

PREPARARE I QUADRUCCI IN CASA

Eravamo solo in tre a mangiare i quadrucci, quindi ho preparato una piccola quantità di pasta. Ho usato il mattarello invece della macchina per la pasta — avevo fretta e non volevo altro da lavare.

La sfoglia è stata tirata molto sottile, poi ho disposto sopra foglie intere di prezzemolo. La pasta è stata piegata, stesa di nuovo e infine tagliata in piccoli quadrati.

Una volta cotti nel brodo, i quadrucci sono molto decorativi: i quadratini di pasta con il prezzemolo visibile all’interno ricordano un ricamo. Un piatto semplice, ma di grande eleganza.

UN TOCCO DI NATALE AUSTRALIANO

Dato che gli asparagi erano di stagione, ne ho aggiunti alcuni al brodo per dare al piatto una sensazione più leggera e estiva — perfetta per un Natale australiano. Il risultato è stato equilibrato, senza togliere importanza al brodo e alla pasta fatta in casa.

In questo post ho incluso sia la mia versione sia l’approccio originale di Bugialli, così potrete adattare il piatto alla vostra cucina, alla stagione e alla vostra tavola natalizia.

Asparagi nel brodo

A volte, i piatti di Natale più memorabili non sono i più elaborati, ma quelli che raccontano tradizione, semplicità e cura.

COSA HO FATTO

Un buon brodo di carne, sgrassato in superficie e filtrato eliminando i solidi con un colino a maglia fine.

Rametti di prezzemolo italiano (ho provato anche alcune foglie di basilico).

Pasta fatta in casa
1 uovo grande ogni 100 g di farina di grano duro o farina forte (non sbiancata, adatta al pane, ad alto contenuto proteico) è sufficiente per 3 persone. Raddoppiare o triplicare le dosi secondo necessità.

I Quadrucci prima della cucitura della pasta performare il bordo

Setacciare la farina e disporla in una ciotola capiente o direttamente sul piano di lavoro, a seconda delle abitudini.

Formare una fontana al centro e aggiungere l’uovo e un pizzico di sale.

Iniziare a impastare con le dita, incorporando gradualmente la farina dai bordi verso il centro. Lavorare bene l’impasto; a questo punto potrebbe essere necessario aggiungere un po’ di farina se l’impasto è troppo umido, oppure pochissima acqua se è troppo asciutto. Questo dipende dalla dimensione delle uova e dall’assorbimento della farina. Continuare a lavorare fino a ottenere un impasto elastico.

Formare una palla, coprirla (con un canovaccio o pellicola) e lasciarla riposare per circa un’ora.

Con il mattarello (oppure con la macchina per la pasta, soprattutto se si preparano quantità maggiori), stendere la pasta molto sottile.

Disporre foglie intere di prezzemolo su metà della sfoglia. Ripiegare l’altra metà sopra il prezzemolo e premere bene per sigillare gli strati.

Stendere nuovamente la pasta fino a renderla molto sottile: le foglie di prezzemolo saranno visibili attraverso la sfoglia, “incastonate” al centro come un ricamo. Per alcuni quadrati ho utilizzato anche foglie di basilico.

Con un poco di pazienza i quadrucci risultano belli

Tagliare la pasta in quadrati (come dei ravioli). Non è necessario che siano tutti uguali; rifilare le parti irregolari.

Portare il brodo a ebollizione e aggiungere i quadrati di pasta. Cuocere per 1–3 minuti: saliranno in superficie quando saranno pronti.

Dopo aver aggiunto la pasta al brodo, ho unito anche gli asparagi. Gli ingredienti cuociono in pochissimo tempo.

Questa è la mia versione del piatto.

LA RICETTA DEI QUADRUCCI IN BRODO DI BUGIALLI

PER IL BRODO

900 g di carne di tacchino scura, con le ossa
1 cipolla rossa media, sbucciata
1 costa di sedano
1 carota media, raschiata
1 spicchio d’aglio medio, sbucciato ma lasciato intero
1 pomodorino
4 rametti di prezzemolo italiano
3 albumi d’uovo grandi
sale grosso

PER LA PASTA

40 g di Parmigiano grattugiato fresco
5 uova
un pizzico di sale
6 macinate di pepe nero
450 g di farina 00 (farina comune)
30 rametti di prezzemolo a foglia piatta, solo le foglie

PREPARAZIONE DEL BRODO

Mettere in una pentola capiente il tacchino, il sale grosso a piacere, la cipolla intera, il sedano, la carota, l’aglio, il pomodorino e il prezzemolo. Coprire con acqua fredda e portare sul fuoco medio, senza coperchio. Lasciar sobbollire per 2 ore, eliminando la schiuma che si forma in superficie.

Togliere la carne dalla pentola e conservarla per un altro utilizzo. Filtrare il brodo attraverso un colino fine in una ciotola capiente, eliminando verdure e impurità. Lasciar raffreddare, quindi riporre in frigorifero per tutta la notte, in modo che il grasso affiori e solidifichi.

Rimuovere il grasso solidificato con una spatola di metallo, quindi chiarificare il brodo. Versare 4 cucchiai di brodo in una ciotolina e mescolarli con gli albumi. Unire il composto al resto del brodo freddo e mescolare energicamente con una frusta. Trasferire il brodo in una pentola e portarlo lentamente al limite dell’ebollizione, semi coperto. Lasciar sobbollire per circa 10 minuti, finché gli albumi salgono in superficie insieme alle impurità e il brodo diventa limpido.

Nel frattempo, mettere un canovaccio di cotone pulito e bagnato nel freezer per 5 minuti. Stenderlo poi su un colapasta e filtrare il brodo attraverso il panno per una chiarificazione finale. Il brodo deve risultare assolutamente limpido.

PREPARAZIONE DELLA PASTA

Preparare la pasta con gli ingredienti indicati, mettendo il Parmigiano grattugiato, il sale, il pepe e le uova nella fontana di farina. Con molta pazienza, incorporare gradualmente le uova nella farina fino a ottenere un impasto compatto. Formare una palla e lasciarla riposare coperta da un canovaccio o avvolta nella pellicola.

Stendere la pasta il più sottile possibile, a mano o con la macchina per la pasta. Disporre le foglie intere di prezzemolo su metà della sfoglia, ripiegare l’altra metà sopra e premere bene. Continuare a stendere fino a ottenere una sfoglia sottilissima. Con una rotella dentellata, tagliare la pasta in quadrati di circa 5 cm.

Portare il brodo a ebollizione e aggiungere i quadrati di pasta. Cuocere per 1–3 minuti, a seconda di quanto la pasta sia asciutta. Servire ben caldo, senza aggiungere formaggio, che ne rovinerebbe la purezza.

Questa è la versione dei quadrucci di Bugialli. Con un po’ più di tempo e usando la macchina per la pasta, la prossima volta anche i miei assomiglieranno a questi.

Altri Piatti per un Primo:

SPAGHETTI CON RICCI DI MARE

PASTA CON BOTTARGA

SPAGHETTI WITH CRAYFISH OR CRAB

 

PESCE CRUDO ALLA SICILIANA WITH CITRUS AND AROMATICS

Pesce Crudo alla Siciliana is one of the purest expressions of Sicilian seafood and it is: thinly sliced fish, lightly marinated in citrus, and finished with the fresh, aromatic flavours of the island.

In Sicily, raw fish is treated with great respect. A good dish of pesce crudo always begins with fish of extraordinary quality — impeccably fresh, carefully cleaned, and sliced as finely as a carpaccio. The preparation is simple, but the result is vibrant, elegant, and deeply connected to place.

I will definitely Make a Pesce Crudo over the upcoming Festive season.

What Is Pesce Crudo alla Siciliana?

Today, pesce crudo can be prepared with many types of fish and seafood. Delicate white fish fillets, sea urchins, calamari, octopus, prawns (especially red prawns), and scampi are all common. Sardines and anchovies, usually filleted rather than served whole, are also much loved.

What makes the dish unmistakably Sicilian is the choice of garnishes. These echo the island’s landscape and aromas: citrus juice and zest (especially blood orange), capers, olives, salted anchovies, fresh herbs such as mint, oregano, basil, or wild fennel, and often a touch of chilli. Almonds or pistachios add texture, while paper-thin slices of fruit or vegetables — strawberry, peach, vanilla persimmon, cucumber, fennel — Be inventive, bring colour and freshness to the plate.

Choosing the Right Fish in Melbourne

When preparing pesce crudo outside Sicily, freshness and sustainability are essential.

Below is some fish that is better than others when it comes to respect sustainability. Tips for Choosing Sustainable Seafood in Australia

  •  Check the species and fishery region — sustainability can differ significantly by area and stock. GoodFish

  • Look for independent certification labels like the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) for wild seafood. Australia & New Zealand

  • Ask how the fish was caught — line and pole methods generally have lower bycatch and habitat impact than longlines or trawls.

  • Use the GoodFish guide/app for real-time traffic-light ratings of local species

If using tuna, choose yellowfin tuna, ideally line-caught.
some fish that is better than others  –  options for raw preparations in Australia include:

  • Snapper

  • Flathead tails

  • Barramundi

  • Farmed kingfish from South Australia

  • Salmon (sourced from New Zealand)

Always buy from a trusted fishmonger and explain that the fish will be eaten raw.

Thinly Sliced Fish Marinated in Lemon with Sicilian Flavours
Ingredients (serves 2–4)

  • 250–300 g very fresh fish fillets, sliced paper-thin

  • Juice of 2 lemons

  • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

  • Extra virgin olive oil

  • A handful of capers, rinsed

  • Green or black olives, chopped

  • Finely grated zest of blood orange or lemon

  • Fresh herbs: mint, oregano, basil, or wild fennel

  • Fresh chilli, finely sliced (optional)

  • Roughly chopped almonds or pistachios

  • Very thin slices of fruit or vegetables (fennel, cucumber, strawberry, or prickly pear)

Method

Prepare the fish

Arrange the fish slices in a single layer on a serving plate. Lightly season with salt.

Marinate with lemon

Pour over enough lemon juice to just cover the fish. Cover and refrigerate for 10–15 minutes — just long enough for the citrus to lightly “cook” the surface.

Drain and season

Remove and discard the marinade. Dress the fish with extra virgin olive oil, black pepper, and citrus zest.

Add Sicilian flavours

Scatter over the capers, olives, chopped herbs, chilli (if using), and almonds or pistachios.

Finish with fruit or vegetables

Decorate with wafer-thin slices of fennel, cucumber, strawberry, or prickly pear for a fresh, colourful touch.

Serve immediately

This dish should remain bright, light, and impeccably fresh.

Pesce crudo as in a Trattoria in Mondello

GREAT BRITISH CHEFS GREAT ITALIAN CHEFS WEBSITE

** Some time ago I was asked to write three articles about Sicily for Great British Chefs/ Great Italian Chefs Website, one was about PESCE CRUDO

Read the complete article: Pesce crudo: Sicily’s love for raw fish

Photo that accompanies article in Great Italian Chef’s website
The other two articles:

Read the complete article: Culture clash: how North Africa changed Sicily forever

Read the complete article: Sicilian arancini: a complete guide

GREAT BRITISH CHEFS, GREAT ITALIAN CHEFS, Feature articles by Marisa Raniolo Wilkins

Other recipes on my blog about sustainable fish :

Raw fish:

PESCE CRUDO, raw fish dishes in Sicily

SARDINE, CRUDE E CONDITE (Sardines; raw and marinaded)

Photo from Sicilian Seafood Cooking. Food stylist Fiona Rigg, photogapher Graeme Gilles.

Sustainability

PASTA CON LE SARDE, an iconic Sicilian recipe from Palermo. Cooked at Slow Food Festival Melbourne

SUSTAINABLE SHELLFISH: Choices Shape the Sea’s Future

THE HUMBLE SARDINE, A SUSTAINABLE CHOICE

SHARKS IN PERIL. Recipe: Pesce in Pastella; fish in batter

ADELAIDE CENTRAL MARKET AT FAIR SEAFOOD

FAIR SEAFOOD, Adelaide Central Market

Soused fish:

PISCI ALL’ AGGHIATA – PESCE ALL’AGLIATA (Soused fish with vinegar, garlic and bay)

MARINADED FISH and a recipe for PESCE IN SAOR

CHEAT FOOD FOR LAUNCH OF SICILIAN SEAFOOD COOKING AT COASIT AND READINGS: Marinaded white anchovies AND Olive Schacciate made with commercially prepared olives

PRODOTTI DI NATALE IN AUSTRALIA E IN ITALIA

Prodotti di Natale in Australia e in Italia: confronto stagionale tra Melbourne e i mercati italiani

I prodotti di Natale in Australia e in Italia raccontano due storie stagionali completamente diverse, determinate dal clima, dalla geografia e dalle tradizioni culinarie.

A Melbourne, dicembre coincide con l’estate. Al Queen Victoria Market, dove faccio regolarmente la spesa, i banchi sono ricchi di frutta estiva, frutti di bosco, frutta a nocciolo, erbe fresche e verdure dai colori intensi.
In Italia, invece, il Natale cade in pieno inverno e porta con sé una straordinaria varietà di verdure a foglia, radicchi, agrumi, frutta secca ed erbe spontanee, con forti differenze tra Nord e Sud.

Vivendo vicino al Queen Victoria Market e intervenendo spesso come ospite a SBS Italian Radio, ho preparato una selezione di prodotti che sceglierei per una tavola natalizia australiana, insieme a ciò che mi manca di più dei mercati italiani di dicembre.

Prodotti di Natale in Australia: cosa ho osservato al Queen Victoria Market

Frutti di bosco estivi

Quest’anno i frutti di bosco sono particolarmente belli, soprattutto le fragole: grandi, lucide e costose. Le dimensioni fanno inevitabilmente riflettere sul sapore.

  • More

  • Mirtilli

  • Lamponi

  • Fragole

Frutta a nocciolo di inizio dicembre

Sorprendentemente abbondante già all’inizio di dicembre. Molto attraente alla vista, ma spesso raccolta leggermente acerba.

  • Albicocche

  • Ciliegie

  • Nettarine

  • Pesche

Altra frutta estiva

I fichi sono stati una piacevole sorpresa, così precoci nella stagione.

  • Fichi

  • Melone giallo (Honeydew)

  • Melone retato / Cantalupo

  • Anguria

  • Arance Valencia

Verdure estive al Queen Victoria Market

Verdure a foglia

Si tratta di verdure presenti anche nei mesi invernali, quindi meno legate alla stagionalità natalizia australiana.

  • Cavolo nero / kale

  • Spinaci in mazzi

  • Bietola / coste

Insalate

Sono stata felice di trovare cicoria ed indivia, anche se essendo verdure invernali potrebbero non essere disponibili fino a Natale. Utilizzo soprattutto le foglie interne più tenere.

  • Lattuga

  • Rucola

  • Cetrioli

  • Finocchi

  • Radicchio

  • Ravanelli

  • Cicoria

  • Indivia

Altre verdure

La scoperta migliore è stato l’aglio fresco australiano: profumato, intenso e ottimo sia crudo che cotto.

  • Carciofi

  • Asparagi (verdi e bianchi, di media grandezza)

  • Fagiolini

  • Peperoni

  • Melanzane

  • Finocchi

  • Aglio (fresco e secco)

  • Porri

  • Funghi

  • Pomodori

  • Zucchine

Erbe aromatiche fresche

  • Basilico

  • Erba cipollina

  • Aneto

  • Menta

  • Origano

  • Prezzemolo

  • Timo

Prodotti di Natale in Italia: mercati di dicembre e ciò che mi manca di più

Quando penso ai prodotti di Natale in Italia, penso subito alla grande varietà di insalate invernali, ai radicchi e alle erbe spontanee, elementi centrali della cucina regionale.

Di seguito, una panoramica dei prodotti di dicembre in Italia, divisi tra Nord e Sud.

Nord Italia: prodotti di dicembre per il Natale

Brassicacee e verdure invernali

  • Cavolo nero

  • Cavoletti di Bruxelles

  • Cime di rapa (meno comuni ma presenti)

Verdure a foglia e insalate invernali

La grande assenza in Australia è la varietà delle insalate tipiche dell’inverno italiano.

  • Radicchio

  • Indivia

  • Cicoria

  • Lattughe invernali

  • Songino / Matovilc / Mâche

Principali varietà di radicchio

  • Radicchio di Chioggia

  • Radicchio Rosso di Treviso Precoce

  • Radicchio Rosso di Treviso Tardivo

  • Radicchio di Verona

  • Radicchio di Castelfranco

  • Rosa del Veneto

  • Spadone

  • Bianco di Chioggia

  • Radicchio Triestino

Il radicchio varia per amaro, consistenza e colore, influenzando profondamente i piatti invernali regionali.

Frutta di dicembre nel Nord Italia

  • Castagne

  • Noci

  • Cachi

  • Agrumi (prodotti al Sud ma consumati ovunque)

Sud Italia: prodotti di Natale e tradizioni invernali

Verdure a foglia e brassicacee

  • Cime di rapa (Puglia)

  • Bietole

  • Cicoria selvatica

  • Spinaci

  • Scarola (tipica della Campania)

Agrumi invernali

  • Limoni

  • Arance bionde

  • Arance rosse (Tarocco, Moro, Sanguinello)

  • Mandarini

  • Clementine IGP Calabria

  • Cedro

Frutta, frutta secca ed erbe spontanee

  • Fichi d’India

  • Cachi

  • Mandorle

  • Noci

  • Nocciole

  • Pistacchi di Bronte

Le erbe spontanee sono parte integrante della cucina rurale e meridionale:

  • Asparagi selvatici

    • Cicoria selvatica

    • Tarassaco

    • Ortiche

    • Finocchietto selvatico

Conclusione

Confrontare i prodotti di Natale in Australia e in Italia mostra quanto la stagionalità influenzi la cucina festiva: una tavola estiva a Melbourne e una tavola invernale in Italia raccontano due Natali profondamente diversi.

GELO DI MELONE, a simple summer, Sicilian dessert

GELO DI LIMONE (Sicilian Jellied Lemon)

RISOTTO AL RADICCHIO ROSSO

SEASONAL WINTER VEGETABLES in Melbourne, Australia

LASAGNA OR LASAGNE? RECIPE FOR LASAGNA AL RADICCHIO

RADICCHIO (Treviso) with polenta and tomato salsa

CHRISTMAS PRODUCE IN AUSTRALIA AND ITALY

Christmas produce in Australia and Italy presents distinct seasonal narratives.

In Melbourne, December is characterised by summer fruit, berries, stone fruit, fresh herbs and vibrant vegetables at the Queen Victoria Market where I shop. In Italy, Christmas occurs in winter, offering an extraordinary range of leafy greens, radicchio varieties, citrus, nuts and wild herbs—particularly in the North and South’s distinct regional traditions.

Residing near Queen Victoria Market and regularly speaking on SBS Italian Radio, I prepared a list of items I would consider purchasing and cooking for an Australian Christmas table and what I miss most from Italian December markets. However, time constraints prevented a comprehensive discussion.

Here are my lists.

Part 1: What I observed at Queen Victoria Market and I would consider buying for an Australian Christmas.

Part 2: Italian December Produce for Christmas and What I Miss Most.

PART 1. WHAT I OBSERVED AT THE QUEEN VICTORIA MARKET and I would consider buying for an Australian Christmas

Berries (Frutti di Bosco)

Beautiful specimens this year—especially strawberries—large, glossy, and expensive. Their size made me wonder about flavour.

  • Blackberries
  • Blueberries
  • Raspberries
  • Strawberries

Stone Fruit (Frutta a Nocciolo)

Surprisingly abundant for early December. Attractive but often picked slightly unripe.

  • Apricots
  • Cherries
  • Nectarines
  • Peaches

Other Fruit (Altre Verdure)

Figs were a surprise—very early in the season.

  • Honeydew melon
  • Rockmelon / Cantaloupe
  • Watermelon
  • Valencia oranges

Vegetables (Verdure)

Leafy Greens (Verdure a Foglia)

These also appear in winter, so their presence felt familiar.

  • Cavolo nero / kale
  • Spinach (bunches)
  • Silverbeet / Chard

Salad Greens (Insalate)

I was pleased to find chicory and endive though being winter vegetables, they may not last until Christmas.I use the soft, inner leaves for salads.

  • Lettuce
  • Rocket
  • Cucumber
  • Fennel
  • Radicchio
  • Radishes
  • Chicory
  • Endive

Other Vegetables 

The best discovery was fresh Australian garlic: aromatic, vibrant, and perfect for raw or cooked salads.

The thick white and green Asparagus looked good, as did mixed-colour cherry tomatoes—though flavour can be variable.

  • Artichokes
  • Asparagus (green and white, medium size)

  • Green beans
  • Capsicum
  • Eggplants
  • Fennel
  • Garlic (fresh and dried)
  • Leeks
  • Mushrooms
  • Tomatoes
  • Zucchini

Herbs 

  • Basil
  • Chives
  • Dill
  • Mint
  • Oregano
  • Parsley
  • Thyme

Part 2. Italian December Produce for Christmas and What I Miss Most

When I think of Christmas in Italy, I immediately think of the incredible range of salad greens and radicchio varieties unavailable in Australia. The wild herbs

Below, a breakdown of North vs South Italy.

 

Northern Italy – December Vegetables and Fruit

Brassicas / Crucifers

Although these  vegetables are found in Australia in December they are winter vegetables and their quality is variable.

  • Cavolo nero
  • Brussels sprouts
  • Cime di rapa (less common, but present)

Leafy Greens

The greatest absence in Australia is the variety of winter salads:

  • Radicchio (a true northern treasure)
  • Endive
  • Chicory
  • Winter lettuces
  • Matovilc / Lamb’s lettuce / Mâche – so popular in Trieste

Key Radicchio Varieties

  • Radicchio di Chioggia
  • Radicchio Rosso di Treviso Precoce
  • Radicchio Rosso di Treviso Tardivo
  • Radicchio di Verona
  • Radicchio di Castelfranco
  • Rosa del Veneto (Pink Radicchio)
  • Spadone
  • Bianco di Chioggia
  • Radicchio Triestino (soft, pale green, cut like grass)

Radicchio varies in bitterness, texture, and colour, and these distinctions shape regional winter dishes.

Other Vegetables

  • Celeriac

Northern December Fruits

  • Chestnuts
  • Walnuts
  • Persimmons
  • Citrus (grown in the South but eaten everywhere)

Southern Italy – December Vegetables and Fruit

Brassicas

  • Cime di rapa (especially in Puglia)

Leafy Greens

  • Chard
  • Wild chicory
  • Seasonal lettuces
  • Spinach
  • Scarola , also called Indivia (typical of Campania)

Citrus (used like vegetables in salads)

  • Lemons
  • Blonde oranges
  • Blood oranges (Tarocco, Moro, Sanguinello)
  • Mandarins
  • Clementine IGP Calabria
  • Lemons
  • Cedro  -its aroma, thick pith, and traditional uses in salads, candied in desserts and liqueurs,

Other December Fruits

Prickly pears in Siracusa
  • Late prickly pears
  • Persimmons

Nuts

  • Almonds
  • Walnuts
  • Hazelnuts (Campania)
  • Pistachios (Bronte, Sicily)

Mediterranean Aromatic Herbs & Wild Herbs

Erbe spontanee or erbe selvatiche are deeply rooted in southern and rural food traditions.

Common types include:

  • Dandelion
  • Wild chicory
  • Nettles
  • Wild asparagus
  • Wild fennel

Used for: sautéed greens, frittate, broths, risotti. They are collected in the wild or simply sold in bunches at markets.

LEMON and CEDRO; SICILIAN LEMON SALAD

PRICKLY PEARS Fichi d’India and a paste called Mostarda

WILD ASPARAGUS IN SICILY AND TUNIS (ASPARAGI SELVATICI)    

RADICCHIO (Treviso) with polenta and tomato salsa

RISOTTO AL RADICCHIO ROSSO

SICILIAN MARKETS; use of every part of the animal

When planning a trip to Sicily, I always recommend visiting the island’s ancient open-air markets. The merchandise, the sellers who enthusiastically promote their produce in vibrant Sicilian, and the shoppers create a captivating experience.

I have seen Guttoso’s painting of the Vucciria Market hanging in the Palazzo Chiaramonte Steri, but it is also on the cover of one of my books: Il Libro D’Oro Della Cucina e Dei Vini Di Sicilia, by Pino Correnti.

Wandering through the open air  markets feels like stepping into a living museum of food culture. But when you reach the meat section, don’t be surprised to see all parts of the animal on display—intestines, organs, heads, and feet.

Everything is used to the fullest and there is always something to discuss with the sellers.

While reading about offal, I came across the term il quinto quarto—the “fifth quarter.” It comes from Roman butchering traditions, where an animal is divided into four quarters: two forequarters and two hindquarters. What remains—the head, organs, feet, blood, skin, and scraps—is known as the fifth quarter. In English, we call it “offal,” though that word doesn’t quite carry the same cultural meaning.

This is the tripe vendor in Palermo who was delighted to share information about the various types of tripe he offered: washed and unwashed tripe. He also explained how the type of pasture the animal grazed influences the tripe’s flavour, with the most favoured variety being the one that originated from the most preferred pasture.

Historically, prime cuts were sold to the wealthy, while the so-called undesirable parts were left to poorer families. For those who raised and slaughtered their own animals, selling the meat was a necessity—they cooked with what was left. But this kind of cooking, known as cucina povera, led to a rich tradition of creative and nourishing dishes. Across Italy, these parts became integral to local Italian cuisine, cooked in traditional ways. Examples include: fegato di vitello (calf’s liver), fegatini di pollo (chicken livers), trippa (tripe), piedini (trotters), coda alla vaccinara (oxtail stew from Rome), animelle (sweetbreads), lampredotto (cow’s fourth stomach, loved in Florence), and milza (spleen), especially famous in Palermo.

Nowhere is this tradition is more alive than in Sicily, where nothing from the animal is wasted. Every bite carries a story, a memory, and a deep respect for what the land and sea provide. In the markets—especially around Palermo’s Ballarò and Vucciria—you see how Sicilian cuisine reflects centuries of conquest, hardship, and resilience. But above all, it reflects respect. For ingredients, for animals, and for tradition.

In Palermo, one of the most iconic Sicilian street foods is pani ca meusa—veal spleen and lung simmered in lard, served in a sesame roll.

Another vendor might be ladling out hot frittola, a traditional Sicilian street food made from leftover bits of meat such as cartilage and other offal. These are boiled, pressed, often fried in lard, and then served hot in paper cones.

You’ll also find stigghiola—lamb intestines wrapped around spring onions, grilled and seasoned with olive oil, lemon, and parsley.

In rural areas, especially around Easter, families prepare minestra di agnello, a rich soup made with lamb heart, liver, and lungs, simmered with wild herbs and foraged greens. This is similar to the Greek Easter soup magiritsa, and both reflect the themes of rebirth, sacrifice, and renewal tied to the Easter tradition.

Another favourite is budelline—lamb intestines sometimes stuffed with breadcrumbs, mint, and garlic, or simply grilled. Crisp on the outside, juicy inside.

 Then there’s trippa alla siciliana, tender strips of cow stomach stewed in tomato sauce with mint and a bit of cheese.

In the southeast, around Catania and Ragusa, you might come across zuzzu, (and gelatina) a cold meat jelly. I presented the recipe for Zuzzu as a podcast on SBS.

Below is a photo of the  hot stock rich with collagen being poured over the meat.

But the finished product can look like this:

Zuzzu is made from the pig’s head, ears, and skin—similar to coppa di testa.

From land to sea, the same Sicilian resourceful approach applies.

On the Egadi Islands, especially in Favignana, every part of the tuna is used—a tradition dating back to the Arab influence and the ritual mattanza, or tuna harvest.

The most famous and better known delicacy of tuna is bottarga—salt-cured tuna roe, shaved over pasta or served in thin slices with lemon.

But there’s more from the tuna. These can be found in Trapani and Milazzo:

  • Mascione – The tuna’s cheek, tender and rich, grilled or preserved in oil.
  • Ficazza – A cured tuna salami made from trimmings, bold and spicy.
  • Curubedda – A coarser version of ficazza, cured and sliced.
  • Tarantello – A prized cut between the belly and back, usually preserved.
  • Busunagghia – Gelatin-rich meat from near the spine, slow-cooked or cured.

Sicilian cuisine embodies the historical and cultural heritage of the island. Whether sourced from the land or the sea, every component of an animal plays a vital role, contributing to its unique flavour profile that deserves recognition.

Zuzzu/ gelatina:

SBS The Ugly Ducklings of Italian Cuisine (Scarrafoni in Cucina)

PESCE SALATO (Salted Fish in Sicily)and BOTTARGA revisited

PASTA CON BOTTARGA (Pasta with Grated Bottarga)

PANELLE, PALERMO STREET FOOD-Chick pea fritters and the Antica Focacceria San Francesco

Palermo and Sicily … peeling the onion

EASTER IN SICILY: Faith, Spring, History and Cassata

Easter in Sicily is more than a religious celebration, it’s a mix of faith, spring, history and cassata.

It is a time when the sacred rituals and the everyday come together. It reminds people of the past, celebrates the present, and looks forward to the future with hope.

EASTER HOLY WEEK CELEBRATIONS IN SICILY

Religion, especially Catholicism, is at the heart of life in Sicily, and this is most visible during Holy Week and the Easter Celebrations. From Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday, towns and cities across the island are filled with devotion and tradition.

Sicilian religious cart used for Religious processions.

On Good Friday, processions move slowly through the old streets. During the week churches are filled with music, the smell of incense, and quiet prayers; these rituals passed down through generations.

Catania, Santa Agata.

Easter Sunday marks the resurrection of Christ and brings a sense of festivity after the solemn days leading up to it. But Easter also connects with something older and more natural: the arrival of spring. As winter fades, nature comes back to life—trees bud, flowers bloom, and the days grow longer. It’s a time of new beginnings and hope.

Easter procession in Enna,confraternities.

EASTER CEREMONIES IN ENNA

Some Easter traditions in Sicily have roots that go back even further than Christianity. In Enna, for example, a priest blesses the fields, praying for good crops and weather. This ceremony likely comes from ancient agricultural customs.

Enna, Easter Holy Week confraternities.

One of the most striking events is the procession of fifteen local confraternities, each with its own unique clothing and customs. This tradition dates back to the 15th to 17th centuries and shows the influence of Spanish rule on Sicilian religious life. I was in Enna during easter time a while back.

Enna,confraternities.

EASTER CELEBRATORY FOOD – CASSATA

With any festivity in Sicily, food plays an essential role—and Easter is no exception.

Alongside the religious rituals and springtime renewal, special dishes take centre stage.

Classic Cassata

One of the most iconic Easter desserts is the elaborate Sicilian cassata

While there are several versions of cassata – including a frozen ricotta and sponge cake version known as cassata gelata, and a baked pastry version filled with sweetened ricotta, known as cassata in forno, the most famous is the highly decorated traditional classic cassata.

Cassata al forno

Traditional classic cassata

This eye-catching, baroque-style cake is usually topped with colourful glacé fruits and candied citrus peel. It’s a dessert that isn’t typically made at home but is crafted by skilled pasticceri (pastry makers) in Sicily’s many historic pastry shops (pasticcerie).  Some that have been in operation for generations.

In this is the case with most Italians, they leave the pastry making to the experts.

Classic Cassata

The classic Sicilian cassata is made of three main parts. First, there’s a soft sponge cake, often moistened with a splash of liqueur and used to line the mould. Inside is a rich, sweetened ricotta filling, made with sheep’s milk (sweeter than cow’s milk) and mixed with small pieces of candied citrus and dark chocolate. Finally, the entire cake is covered with a layer of green marzipan or a smooth glaze of sugar icing, then decorated with intricate patterns and colourful candied fruits.

Classic Cassata

HISTORICAL NOTES

But cassata is more than just a dessert – it’s a layered representation of Sicily’s complex cultural and historical past and its origins are believed to reflect the many cultures that have shaped the island. The name cassata may come from the Arabic qas’ah, meaning “bowl,” referring to the traditional mould used to shape the cake. The Arabs introduced sugar to Sicily, along with candied fruits, which are key ingredients in the cake. The sponge cake, called Pan di Spagna in Italian, likely came from the Spanish, while the elaborate icing and presentation were influenced by the Monsù – French-trained chefs who worked in aristocratic Sicilian households in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Some of these chefs were French, while others came from Piedmont, a region in northern Italy that was under French control during that time. These Monsù added a touch of French elegance and flair to traditional Sicilian cooking, turning simple ingredients into refined and artistic dishes. Cassata, with its rich mix of flavours, textures, and cultural layers, is a perfect example.

While the traditional cassata is a showstopper, not everyone has the time, or the team of expert pasticceri to make such an elaborate creation.

MY HOMEMADE CASSATA

Homemade Cassata with green marzipan.

I have made many cassate (plural) at home, the last one was probably approximately three years ago.

Homemade Cassata with almond marzipan and green pistachio marzipan.

DECONSTRUCTED CASSATA RECIPE

Tastes change, people’s diets do as well and I now have a more enjoyable method of utilising the same delectable flavours in a simpler manner. By employing the classic ingredients, I have crafted various versions of a deconstructed cassata-inspired dessert, such as the deconstructed cassata below where I added strawberries. I have made a few of these and they have always been a success.

Deconstructed Cassata.

the next time, I intend to serve the deconstructed cassata in a large wine glass. This presentation will be both easy to prepare and visually appealing. Furthermore, my previous deconstructed cassata retains the essence of the original, while eliminating the complexities associated with traditional preparation.

Deconstructed Cassata in a Glass

Ingredients (4 – 6 people)

* 500 g fresh ricotta, combined with a splash of thick cream (adjust the quantity to achieve a creamy consistency)

* 100 g caster sugar (or honey or Monk Fruit, as a sugar substitute)

* A few drops of vanilla concentrate

* Orange and citron (cedro) peel, soaked in Cointreau for at least a couple of hours. I use this French Liqueur because it is very orange flavoured.

* Small pieces of exceptionally dark chocolate

* Savoiardi (sponge fingers or Pan di Spagna/sponge cake) for use as a base or topping. Please refer to the “To Serve” section below for an estimate of the required quantities.

Marzipan leaves

* 100 g blanched almond meal

* 100 g icing sugar

* 1 egg white

* 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

* 1 drop of green food dye

Method:

Combine the marzipan ingredients in a bowl and knead until smooth. If the mixture is excessively wet, add more almond meal or sugar. I frequently a greater ratio to sugar.  Roll the marzipan thinly between two sheets of baking paper and cut into leaf shapes. These marzipan leaves serve as a delightful garnish and a playful tribute to the traditional decoration.

To Serve:

Experiment with the composition of the dessert. Here are a couple of suggestions:

* Place 1-2 Savoiardi (sponge fingers) or some sponge cake on the bottom of the glass and lightly brush it with the reserved Cointreau.

* Spread the creamy ricotta mixture over the sponge layer.

* Top the ricotta layer with another layer of sponge or savoiardi moistened with the reserved Cointreau. Top with some Marzipan leaves.

Alternatively, you can create a layered dessert by alternating between the ricotta mixture and the sponge layer, with each layer lightly brushed with Cointreau.

I prefer this one:

*Spoon generous layers of the ricotta mixture into large wine glasses.

*Garnish with marzipan leaves and 1-2 dry Savoiardi biscuits (not soaked in Cointreau) nestled into the glass, allowing you to scoop up the ricotta with the biscuits. Top with Marzipan leaves. Drink Cointreau on the side.

These are versions of reimagined cassata – less formal, enjoyable and may be more sympathetic of people’s tastes and diet, but still embodying Sicilian character. Ideal for when you desire to serve something visually appealing and steeped in tradition, without dedicating hours to the kitchen.

CASSATA DECONSTRUCTED; a postmodernist take on Sicilian Cassata

EASTER (Pasqua) in Sicily

CASSATA Explained with photos

CASSATA ( Post no. 2) Calls for a celebration!!!

EASTER SICILIAN SPECIALTIES …. Cuddura cù ova, Pecorelle Pasquali

SCACCE and PIZZA and SICILIAN EASTER

EASTER IN SICILY – A SICILIAN FEAST IN RAGUSA – Recipes and Giuggiulena

EASTER (Pasqua) in Sicily

 

SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD, current information and recipes

Sustainable Seafood Choices: Making the Right Decisions, Christmas 2024.

For many people who live in Australia seafood is a staple during the Christmas  and New Year period. This may come as a suprise but, with over 6 million kilograms of prawns consumed each year during this time, it’s important to be mindful of the environmental impact of our choices.

It also a good idea to check labels for fish, for example I only buy Australian seafood and there are many reasons to buy Australian seafood – sustainability, environmental impact and quality. Australian seafood producers often have  sustainability certifications from the Marine Stewardship Council and Aquaculture Stewardship Council. 

Whether it’s prawns, oysters, or a beautiful whole fish, for most Australians it appears that the Christmas and New Year’s festive season wouldn’t feel the same without some seafood.

Not only Italians, but people of different cultures who have a Catholic background abstain from eating meat on Christmas Eve, and fish is a preferred choice.

In recent years, it has been beneficial to see information via the media guiding shoppers to make more informed, sustainable seafood choices. This is crucial not only to protect marine species, but also to ensure that we’re supporting seafood industries that are committed to the health of our oceans.

Here’s a summary of some important information and guidance from what i have read and heard on sustainable seafood in the last few weeks. Hopefully it  may help us make the right choices this holiday season. I have also included some seafood recipes at the end of this post.

The Environmental Impact of Seafood Consumption

As the demand for seafood grows, so do the pressures on our oceans and marine life, with issues like bycatch, pollution, and unsustainable farming practices becoming more widespread.

Australia’s appetite for seafood during the Christmas season has a significant environmental cost. For instance, the production of prawns can lead to habitat destruction, pollution, and unsustainable fishing practices, all of which harm marine ecosystems. Bycatch – the capture of non-target species – is a major concern, and certain farming practices, particularly for prawns, have been linked to sea bed deforestation and high pollution levels.

One of the most reliable resources for navigating the complexities of sustainable seafood is the Australian Marine Conservation Society’s GoodFish Guide, which provides helpful advice on what to buy, and what to avoid, based on the sustainability of fishing methods and farm practices.

Just like the tureen above making the right choice can be confusing, What may be sustainable in one country, state or location, will not be sustainable in another. And also, what was sustainable last year may not be on the good choice list this year. And while we are discussing changes, I have been promoting wild caught fish for many years but now, I am not so sure about making generalisations! It all depends on the fishery. (Unfortunately, I cannot remember what Art Gallery in NY this photo was from.)

Unsustainable Choices to Avoid

Some popular seafood items are unfortunately not as environmentally friendly as  promoted. This year I have been hearing strong criticism about Tasmanian salmon. Mind you, many of us already knew this, but lately the views expressed in the media have been particularly damming.

The GoodFish Guide advises against purchasing farm-raised Tasmanian salmon that has been linked to high pollution levels in the waters where it’s farmed depriving other fish of oxygen.Tasmania’s salmon farming industry has been controversial due to environmental damage, animal welfare concerns, and a lack of regulation. Salmon farming has led to dead zones in Macquarie Harbour due to low oxygen levels, and has impacted the Macquarie Harbour Wilderness World Heritage Area.

There are warnings about the potential extinction of the Maugean skate, a rare species found only in Tasmania,

There are between 40 and 120 adult Maugean skate left on the planet, and the federal government’s threatened species committee said in August 2024 the best way to save the endangered fish was to eliminate or at least dramatically cut back on salmon farming in its habitat.
The committee said there was a ‘significant correlation’ between low oxygen levels and an increase in salmon farming. Farmed fish suck up a lot of the oxygen in the water, while fish food and faeces that enter the water via the salmon pens feed oxygen-consuming bacteria causing extreme degradation of marine ecosystems surrounding these farms.
Another seafood to avoid is imported vannamei prawns (also known as white leg shrimp), commonly sourced from countries like Vietnam. These prawns are often farmed in ways that cause significant environmental damage, including water pollution and the destruction of mangroves. Furthermore, prawn farming in these regions is notorious for its high use of antibiotics and chemicals, which can harm local biodiversity and contaminate waterways.

Sustainable Alternatives for Christmas Seafood

But there are plenty of sustainable seafood options available that won’t compromise the environmental values or budget.

One great alternative offered is Australian salmon, which is native to the region and is typically caught using low-impact, sustainable methods. Unlike farmed Tasmanian salmon, wild-caught Australian salmon has a much smaller environmental footprint and provides a local, sustainable option for your Christmas feast. I have included some notes and a recipe about this fish towards the end of this post.

Farm-raised Australian prawns – especially varieties like black tiger and banana prawns – are an excellent sustainable option. These prawns are farmed in environmentally controlled systems with a much lower impact than their imported counterparts. They are often cheaper than wild-caught prawns because of lower labor costs and can be just as tasty. Additionally, some of Australia’s Spencer Gulf prawns are both affordable and sustainable, making them an excellent choice for a Christmas seafood platter.

Another more sustainable option is farm-raised barramundi. While wild-caught barramundi, particularly those caught using destructive gillnets, is often considered harmful to marine life, farmed barramundi has a far less damaging environmental impact. The Australian barramundi farming industry is highly regulated, ensuring that practices meet high environmental and animal welfare standards.

Wild-Caught vs. Farmed: Navigating the Choices

In the face of these sustainability challenges, it’s also important to consider the difference between wild-caught and farmed seafood. Both have their pros and cons. Wild-caught fish can suffer from overfishing and bycatch, especially when fisheries are poorly managed. However, Australian fisheries are typically subject to strict regulations, which means that wild-caught Australian species like prawns, barramundi, and rock lobster are generally more sustainable than wild-caught seafood from other regions.

Farmed seafood, on the other hand, can be more environmentally friendly if the farming practices are responsible. In fact, well-managed fish farms can actually have a smaller carbon footprint and less environmental impact than some forms of wild-caught fishing. It’s key to check where and how the seafood is farmed. Sustainable farms use environmentally responsible practices such as efficient feed management, waste control, and low-impact farming systems.

Sustainable Seafood: Affordable Options for Every Budget

Sustainable seafood can sometimes be more expensive, but there are affordable options available. For example, Australian salmon and farmed prawns are not only eco-friendly choices but are also budget-friendly compared to some of their imported or wild-caught alternatives. By opting for these, we can support local industries and make a real difference in the health of our oceans.

This Christmas, consider making a conscious decision to choose sustainable options. Not only will you be making a positive impact on the environment, but you’ll also be supporting Australia’s local fishing and farming communities, ensuring that these industries remain viable for future generations.

In summary, being an informed seafood consumer doesn’t have to be difficult. By using resources like the GoodFish guide and prioritising sustainable Australian seafood, we can all enjoy delicious meals that are kind to the planet.

From Australian salmon and farmed prawns to sustainably farmed barramundi, there are plenty of options that are both eco-friendly and affordable. It’s about making smarter choices, so that we can continue to enjoy the bounty of the ocean – without compromising its future.

Recipes

Not all sustainable seafood is mentioned in what I have read or listened to. For example squid, mussels and sardines have always been on the better choice list. Explore the options:

GoodFish Guide

There are many recipes for Mussels, Squid and Sardines on my blog, far too many to list here. Here are just a few.

MUSSELS, three ways: in brodetto, with spaghetti and in a risotto with saffron

NDUJA, SQUID, VONGOLE AND PAN GRATTATO with Spaghetti

GRILLED CALAMARI (CALAMARI ‘NTA BRACI (Sicilian) – CALAMARI ALLA BRACE (Italian)

SARDINES, grilled or barbecued with Sicilian dressings

There are far too many recipes for seafood on my blog (pasta, rice, raw, cooked in various ways), but this link could be helpful:

LA VIGILIA (Christmas Eve revisited)

This year, Australian salmon seems to feature strongly as a sustainable choice. This fish was abundant in South Australia where I lived for many years and I am used to cooking it. But because it is a strong tasting fish, I would recommend baking it  whole or filleted and using strong flavours like anchovies, garlic and onion.  The flavour of this fish also responds to strong tasting herbs. I would never cook it by steaming or enveloping with foil to bake; it is far too fishy, even for me.

BAKED FISH WITH POTATOES, VINEGAR and ANCHOVIES

Cooking Autralian salmon on a grill on the BBQ will also suit this fish. The charred flavour will mask the fishy taste of the fish and enhance the flavour. Think of sardines on the BBQ and how delicious they are when cooked this way.

Strong tasting sauces will complement the taste of the fish.
And consider using strong tasting herbs and plenty of them, either when cooking  strong tasting fish or for the sauces.

SARDINES, grilled or barbecued with Sicilian dressings

PASTA CON LE SARDE (SARDINES)  (strong flavours – fennel, saffron, currants)

SAUCES for meat, fish and vegetables to brighten up your Christmas

Enjoy cooking, eating, sharing and talking about food!

(TUNA BALLS ) and other tuna recipes

Tuna balls —known as Polpette di Tonno in Italy and Purpetti di Tunnu in Sicily—are a delightful twist on the classic meatball, shaped in a variety of sizes and infused with an array of irresistible flavors of tradition and creativity as with their meaty counterparts. In this case Sicilian flavours.

Below is a photo of tuna and sword fish (on the left) as sold in a fish market in Sicily. Notice the different cuts.

Tuna is widely eaten and appreciated in Sicily and in this post I have aslo included other recipes for Tuna.

They can be fried and eaten plain with a squeeze of lemon juice, poached in a tomato salsa or in an agro dolce sauce.

The photo below was taken by the photographer Graeme Gillies and styled by Fiona Rigg from my cookbook Sicilian Seafood Cooking.

You may think that using tuna for mincing and making into balls is far too extravagant, but Albocore tuna is more sustainable and economical. It is usually sold cut into vertical slices.

Below is another photo of Albacore tuna,  a recipe for tuna studded with various flavours. I often use Mackerel or Hapuka for this recipe.

The photo below was taken by the photographer Graeme Gillies and styled by Fiona Rigg from my cookbook Sicilian Seafood Cooking.

I have often bought Albacore tuna in Adelaide filleted and cut into cutlets. Unfortunately I have never found these excellent cuts of Albacore tuna in Melbourne.

The following recipe is for 6 people

Fish balls in tomato salsa

INGREDIENTS

tuna, 600gr, all skin and sinews removed
breadcrumbs, made from fresh bread, 1 cup
milk, ¼ cup
eggs, 2 lightly beaten
currants, 2 tablespoons
pine nuts, 2 tablespoons
salt and freshly ground black pepper
flour or fine toasted breadcrumbs to coat the fish balls
extra virgin olive oil, 1¼ cup or more
tomatoes, 500g, peeled and chopped (or a can)
parsley, 2 tablespoons
rosemary, ½ teaspoon finely cut
basil, fresh, loose leaves
white wine, 1 cup
garlic cloves, 2
extra virgin olive oil, 1 cup

PROCESSES

Cut tuna into chunks and remove any dark bits of the flesh.
Mince the tuna – pass through meat grinder or use food processor.
Soak fresh breadcrumbs in milk and squeeze dry.

Make fishballs:

Combine, tuna, fresh breadcrumbs, eggs, parsley, seasoning and 1 tablespoon of each of the currants and pine nuts.

Form into fish balls and roll each one lightly in flour and shake off any excess.

Heat ¾ cup of extra virgin olive oil in a fry pan and using a slotted spoon, carefully lower the balls into the hot oil and cook until they are a light golden brown (about 2 minutes). Do not overcrowd them, it is better to cook them in batches and give them room to fry.

Remove with a slotted spoon and leave to drain on paper towels.

For the tomato salsa:

Heat, ¼ cup of extra virgin olive oil in a separate pan. It needs to be large enough to accommodate the polpette as well as the salsa.

Add the garlic and cook until it is lightly golden.

Place the tomatoes, rosemary, the rest of the currants and pine nuts and seasoning into the pan.

Include the polpette and braise for about 8 to 10 minutes.

Add the white wine and fresh basil leaves (if in season) and leave uncovered till the sauce is thick and the polpette are cooked.

Serve hot.

Fish balls in agro dolce

Instead of using pine nuts and currants in the mixture, you could select to add some grated lemon peel, a little cinnamon and some chopped spring onions or mint.

Fry the fish balls I some oil, drain the access oil and return the purpetti to the fry pan. Add  a couple of fresh bay leaves, two tablespoons of sugar, ½ cup of vinegar and ½ cup of white wine. Heat, allow the liquid to evaporate.  Add ½ cup of water, swirl around it in the pan to deglaze all of those good flavours and serve.

I have made many fishballs of various sized and many times using different types of fish.

FISH BALLS IN SALSA – POLPETTE DI PESCE (PURPETTI in Sicilian)

FISH BALLS with Sicilian flavours

FISH STUDDED WITH SICILIAN FLAVOURS

TONNO AL AGRO DOLCE; Sweet and sour tuna, Sicilian; ALBACORE TUNA

HAPUKA(fish)WITH SICILIAN FLAVOURS

TUNNU `A STIMPIRATA; TONNO ALLA STEMPERATA (Tuna with onions, vinegar, capers and green olives)

TONNO E PISELLI (Tuna and peas)

TONNO (Tuna, albacore)