ITALIAN NEW YEAR’S LENTILS (Lenticchie di Capodanno)

In Italy, lentils (lenticchie) are particularly eaten on New Year’s Eve (Capodanno) as they are one of the most enduring symbols of good luck, prosperity and abundance. As the old year concludes and the new one begins, bowls of lentils are placed on tables across the country, consumed with the hopeful belief that they will bring financial security and good fortune in the months ahead.

If you believe in tradition, eat them before midnight and make a wish for the year ahead.

Brown lentils (also known as green lentils) are followed by Puy (also known as French lentils) and a smaller variety of brown lentils.
The Symbolism of Lentils

The symbolism is ancient. Lentils’ small, round, coin-like shape has long been associated with money and wealth. This idea dates back to Roman times, when lentils were exchanged at the turn of the year in the hope they would transform into coins. Over centuries, this belief became embedded in Italian food culture, turning lentils into an essential New Year ritual rather than an everyday superstition. Some traditions even claim that the more lentils you eat, the greater your prosperity will be.

Traditional Pairings

Lentils are commonly paired with rich pork dishes such as cotechino or zampone but are equally satisfying when prepared on their own or with vegetables, herbs and olive oil. They can be served warm and garnished as a salad. These gently braised lentils are rich, comforting and symbolic, a dish to welcome prosperity in the coming year without being heavy. I have included a traditional and cultural recipe for lentils with cotechino on my blog.

 I also enjoy braising good quality pork sausages with lentils. I am particularly fond of both of these dishes but it is also suitable for a warm Australian evening or as a salad for a barbecue. It can be eaten warm at room temperature or even the following day. In fact, like most lentil dishes, it improves with time.

This dish is more commonly associated with the north of Italy, but as we know, food habits change. Recipes travel. Traditions adapt. Just as panettone has become a Christmas fixture in Australia, lentils have found their way onto many New Year tables well beyond Italy. Lentils are traditionally eaten at the turn of the year because their coin-like shape symbolises wealth and abundance. This simple preparation allows their meaning — and flavour — to shine, making it a perfect dish to usher in the New Year with intention, restraint, and hope.

Lentils as an accompaniment to stuffed artichokes.
Customising and Enjoying Your Lenticchie di Capodanno

I have always prepared lentils in this manner, so I have never considered writing a recipe. For those who prefer Indian or Middle Eastern flavours, it is simple to omit the bay, rosemary and thyme and add Indian or Middle Eastern spices.

The cooking method will look familiar. Onion, carrot, and celery make their inevitable appearance — the Italian usual suspects. This soffritto forms the base of countless soups, braises, and stews, and it works just as well here.

You can easily adjust quantities. Add more lentils if you like leftovers (and you should). They reheat beautifully, and with a little extra liquid can even be turned into soup the next day — particularly welcome if you are living somewhere cooler than I am.

Serve warm or at room temperature or as a salad with a few additional simple ingredients.

And do appreciate the leftovers. The flavours deepen over the next few days. Very good eating indeed.

Italian New Year’s Lentils with Olive Oil, Garlic & Herbs

(Lenticchie di Capodanno all’Olio d’Oliva)

INGREDIENTS

4–6 as a side or light main

  • 250 g dried lentils (Green lentils or Puy lentils)
  • 1 small onion, finely chopped
  • 1 carrot, finely diced
  • 1 celery stalk, finely diced
  • 2 cloves garlic, lightly crushed
  • 2–3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to finish
  • 1 bay leaf
  • A small sprig of rosemary or thyme
  • Vegetable stock or water (as needed)
  • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

METHOD

Rinse the lentils thoroughly. If using high-quality small lentils, soaking is not necessary.

In a wide saucepan, warm the olive oil over gentle heat. Add the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic. Cook slowly until soft and fragrant, without browning.

Stir in the lentils, bay leaf, and herbs. Coat well in the aromatic base.

Add enough stock or water to cover the lentils by about 3 cm. Bring to a gentle simmer.

Cook uncovered for 25–35 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the lentils are tender but still hold their shape. Add more liquid if needed.

Season with salt and pepper towards the end of cooking. Remove the bay leaf and herb sprigs.

Serving Suggestions and Tips

Serve warm in a shallow bowl, make it glistening with a generous drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

For a salad add a little lemon zest, lemon juice or wine vinegar and for brightness finely chopped parsley.

Pair with sautéed greens, roasted vegetables, or crusty bread.

Roasted vegetables such as pumpkin, carrots and potatoes can be added to lentils for a hot or cold dish.

Store leftovers in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Flavours improve overnight.

Add left over vegetables to lentil salads.

COTECHINO AND LENTILS; NEW YEAR’s EVE and CHRISTMAS

Lentils with Cotechino

QUADRUCCI IN BRODO – QUADRETTI DI PASTA FATTA IN CASA NEL BRODO

Quadrucci in Brodo sono uno di quei piatti di pasta fatta in casa nel brodo che per me raccontano il Natale meglio di qualsiasi menu elaborato.

Spesso mi viene chiesto cosa cucinerò per la Vigilia o per il Giorno di Natale. La verità è che non lo so sempre in anticipo. Quello che so è che, seguendo la tradizione italiana, la Vigilia è dedicata al pesce, mentre il pranzo di Natale è l’occasione per preparare qualcosa di speciale — spesso un piatto che non cucino molto spesso.

Quadrucci in Brodo is a light, yet elegant Italian Puglise dish of handmade pasta squares cooked in clear broth. A timeless first course rooted in tradition and simplicity that could be suitable during the Christmas celebration.

I had prepared this recipe in Italian case I was asked about Christmas dinner on SBS Italian radio, but we ran out of time.*** SEE RECIPE IN ENGLISH: QUADRUCCI IN BRODO, Squares of home-made Pasta in Broth

Negli anni passati ho preparato pasta con i ricci di mare, pasta con la bottarga o con le seppie al nero, oppure piatti a base di astice o granchio. (Trovate i link di queste ricette in fondo al post.)

Nella mia famiglia, però, una cosa era costante: il brodo. Dopo una Vigilia abbondante, il pranzo di Natale era più leggero, e un brodo chiaro e nutriente era l’inizio ideale.

COME HO SCOPERTO I QUADRUCCI IN BRODO

Ho scoperto i Quadrucci in Brodo nel 1984, con la pubblicazione del libro The Taste of Italy di Giuliano Bugialli. Bugialli chiama questa pasta quadrucci — piccoli quadrati. Quadro, in italiano, significa semplicemente quadrato.

Nella sua ricetta, Bugialli suggerisce di preparare il brodo con carne e ossa di tacchino. In questa occasione, però, avevo in freezer un brodo di anatra molto saporito, preparato con la carcassa dopo aver utilizzato petto e cosce per un altro piatto. È stato perfetto — ma qualsiasi buon brodo intenso va benissimo.

Bugialli definisce questo piatto come rappresentativo della Puglia, anche se lui era fiorentino. Come spesso accade nella cucina italiana, piatti semplici come questo superano i confini regionali.

PREPARARE I QUADRUCCI IN CASA

Eravamo solo in tre a mangiare i quadrucci, quindi ho preparato una piccola quantità di pasta. Ho usato il mattarello invece della macchina per la pasta — avevo fretta e non volevo altro da lavare.

La sfoglia è stata tirata molto sottile, poi ho disposto sopra foglie intere di prezzemolo. La pasta è stata piegata, stesa di nuovo e infine tagliata in piccoli quadrati.

Una volta cotti nel brodo, i quadrucci sono molto decorativi: i quadratini di pasta con il prezzemolo visibile all’interno ricordano un ricamo. Un piatto semplice, ma di grande eleganza.

UN TOCCO DI NATALE AUSTRALIANO

Dato che gli asparagi erano di stagione, ne ho aggiunti alcuni al brodo per dare al piatto una sensazione più leggera e estiva — perfetta per un Natale australiano. Il risultato è stato equilibrato, senza togliere importanza al brodo e alla pasta fatta in casa.

In questo post ho incluso sia la mia versione sia l’approccio originale di Bugialli, così potrete adattare il piatto alla vostra cucina, alla stagione e alla vostra tavola natalizia.

Asparagi nel brodo

A volte, i piatti di Natale più memorabili non sono i più elaborati, ma quelli che raccontano tradizione, semplicità e cura.

COSA HO FATTO

Un buon brodo di carne, sgrassato in superficie e filtrato eliminando i solidi con un colino a maglia fine.

Rametti di prezzemolo italiano (ho provato anche alcune foglie di basilico).

Pasta fatta in casa
1 uovo grande ogni 100 g di farina di grano duro o farina forte (non sbiancata, adatta al pane, ad alto contenuto proteico) è sufficiente per 3 persone. Raddoppiare o triplicare le dosi secondo necessità.

I Quadrucci prima della cucitura della pasta performare il bordo

Setacciare la farina e disporla in una ciotola capiente o direttamente sul piano di lavoro, a seconda delle abitudini.

Formare una fontana al centro e aggiungere l’uovo e un pizzico di sale.

Iniziare a impastare con le dita, incorporando gradualmente la farina dai bordi verso il centro. Lavorare bene l’impasto; a questo punto potrebbe essere necessario aggiungere un po’ di farina se l’impasto è troppo umido, oppure pochissima acqua se è troppo asciutto. Questo dipende dalla dimensione delle uova e dall’assorbimento della farina. Continuare a lavorare fino a ottenere un impasto elastico.

Formare una palla, coprirla (con un canovaccio o pellicola) e lasciarla riposare per circa un’ora.

Con il mattarello (oppure con la macchina per la pasta, soprattutto se si preparano quantità maggiori), stendere la pasta molto sottile.

Disporre foglie intere di prezzemolo su metà della sfoglia. Ripiegare l’altra metà sopra il prezzemolo e premere bene per sigillare gli strati.

Stendere nuovamente la pasta fino a renderla molto sottile: le foglie di prezzemolo saranno visibili attraverso la sfoglia, “incastonate” al centro come un ricamo. Per alcuni quadrati ho utilizzato anche foglie di basilico.

Con un poco di pazienza i quadrucci risultano belli

Tagliare la pasta in quadrati (come dei ravioli). Non è necessario che siano tutti uguali; rifilare le parti irregolari.

Portare il brodo a ebollizione e aggiungere i quadrati di pasta. Cuocere per 1–3 minuti: saliranno in superficie quando saranno pronti.

Dopo aver aggiunto la pasta al brodo, ho unito anche gli asparagi. Gli ingredienti cuociono in pochissimo tempo.

Questa è la mia versione del piatto.

LA RICETTA DEI QUADRUCCI IN BRODO DI BUGIALLI

PER IL BRODO

900 g di carne di tacchino scura, con le ossa
1 cipolla rossa media, sbucciata
1 costa di sedano
1 carota media, raschiata
1 spicchio d’aglio medio, sbucciato ma lasciato intero
1 pomodorino
4 rametti di prezzemolo italiano
3 albumi d’uovo grandi
sale grosso

PER LA PASTA

40 g di Parmigiano grattugiato fresco
5 uova
un pizzico di sale
6 macinate di pepe nero
450 g di farina 00 (farina comune)
30 rametti di prezzemolo a foglia piatta, solo le foglie

PREPARAZIONE DEL BRODO

Mettere in una pentola capiente il tacchino, il sale grosso a piacere, la cipolla intera, il sedano, la carota, l’aglio, il pomodorino e il prezzemolo. Coprire con acqua fredda e portare sul fuoco medio, senza coperchio. Lasciar sobbollire per 2 ore, eliminando la schiuma che si forma in superficie.

Togliere la carne dalla pentola e conservarla per un altro utilizzo. Filtrare il brodo attraverso un colino fine in una ciotola capiente, eliminando verdure e impurità. Lasciar raffreddare, quindi riporre in frigorifero per tutta la notte, in modo che il grasso affiori e solidifichi.

Rimuovere il grasso solidificato con una spatola di metallo, quindi chiarificare il brodo. Versare 4 cucchiai di brodo in una ciotolina e mescolarli con gli albumi. Unire il composto al resto del brodo freddo e mescolare energicamente con una frusta. Trasferire il brodo in una pentola e portarlo lentamente al limite dell’ebollizione, semi coperto. Lasciar sobbollire per circa 10 minuti, finché gli albumi salgono in superficie insieme alle impurità e il brodo diventa limpido.

Nel frattempo, mettere un canovaccio di cotone pulito e bagnato nel freezer per 5 minuti. Stenderlo poi su un colapasta e filtrare il brodo attraverso il panno per una chiarificazione finale. Il brodo deve risultare assolutamente limpido.

PREPARAZIONE DELLA PASTA

Preparare la pasta con gli ingredienti indicati, mettendo il Parmigiano grattugiato, il sale, il pepe e le uova nella fontana di farina. Con molta pazienza, incorporare gradualmente le uova nella farina fino a ottenere un impasto compatto. Formare una palla e lasciarla riposare coperta da un canovaccio o avvolta nella pellicola.

Stendere la pasta il più sottile possibile, a mano o con la macchina per la pasta. Disporre le foglie intere di prezzemolo su metà della sfoglia, ripiegare l’altra metà sopra e premere bene. Continuare a stendere fino a ottenere una sfoglia sottilissima. Con una rotella dentellata, tagliare la pasta in quadrati di circa 5 cm.

Portare il brodo a ebollizione e aggiungere i quadrati di pasta. Cuocere per 1–3 minuti, a seconda di quanto la pasta sia asciutta. Servire ben caldo, senza aggiungere formaggio, che ne rovinerebbe la purezza.

Questa è la versione dei quadrucci di Bugialli. Con un po’ più di tempo e usando la macchina per la pasta, la prossima volta anche i miei assomiglieranno a questi.

Altri Piatti per un Primo:

SPAGHETTI CON RICCI DI MARE

PASTA CON BOTTARGA

SPAGHETTI WITH CRAYFISH OR CRAB

 

PESCE CRUDO ALLA SICILIANA WITH CITRUS AND AROMATICS

Pesce Crudo alla Siciliana is one of the purest expressions of Sicilian seafood and it is: thinly sliced fish, lightly marinated in citrus, and finished with the fresh, aromatic flavours of the island.

In Sicily, raw fish is treated with great respect. A good dish of pesce crudo always begins with fish of extraordinary quality — impeccably fresh, carefully cleaned, and sliced as finely as a carpaccio. The preparation is simple, but the result is vibrant, elegant, and deeply connected to place.

I will definitely Make a Pesce Crudo over the upcoming Festive season.

What Is Pesce Crudo alla Siciliana?

Today, pesce crudo can be prepared with many types of fish and seafood. Delicate white fish fillets, sea urchins, calamari, octopus, prawns (especially red prawns), and scampi are all common. Sardines and anchovies, usually filleted rather than served whole, are also much loved.

What makes the dish unmistakably Sicilian is the choice of garnishes. These echo the island’s landscape and aromas: citrus juice and zest (especially blood orange), capers, olives, salted anchovies, fresh herbs such as mint, oregano, basil, or wild fennel, and often a touch of chilli. Almonds or pistachios add texture, while paper-thin slices of fruit or vegetables — strawberry, peach, vanilla persimmon, cucumber, fennel — Be inventive, bring colour and freshness to the plate.

Choosing the Right Fish in Melbourne

When preparing pesce crudo outside Sicily, freshness and sustainability are essential.

Below is some fish that is better than others when it comes to respect sustainability. Tips for Choosing Sustainable Seafood in Australia

  •  Check the species and fishery region — sustainability can differ significantly by area and stock. GoodFish

  • Look for independent certification labels like the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) for wild seafood. Australia & New Zealand

  • Ask how the fish was caught — line and pole methods generally have lower bycatch and habitat impact than longlines or trawls.

  • Use the GoodFish guide/app for real-time traffic-light ratings of local species

If using tuna, choose yellowfin tuna, ideally line-caught.
some fish that is better than others  –  options for raw preparations in Australia include:

  • Snapper

  • Flathead tails

  • Barramundi

  • Farmed kingfish from South Australia

  • Salmon (sourced from New Zealand)

Always buy from a trusted fishmonger and explain that the fish will be eaten raw.

Thinly Sliced Fish Marinated in Lemon with Sicilian Flavours
Ingredients (serves 2–4)
  • 250–300 g very fresh fish fillets, sliced paper-thin

  • Juice of 2 lemons

  • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

  • Extra virgin olive oil

  • A handful of capers, rinsed

  • Green or black olives, chopped

  • Finely grated zest of blood orange or lemon

  • Fresh herbs: mint, oregano, basil, or wild fennel

  • Fresh chilli, finely sliced (optional)

  • Roughly chopped almonds or pistachios

  • Very thin slices of fruit or vegetables (fennel, cucumber, strawberry, or prickly pear)

Method

Prepare the fish

Arrange the fish slices in a single layer on a serving plate. Lightly season with salt.

Marinate with lemon

Pour over enough lemon juice to just cover the fish. Cover and refrigerate for 10–15 minutes — just long enough for the citrus to lightly “cook” the surface.

Drain and season

Remove and discard the marinade. Dress the fish with extra virgin olive oil, black pepper, and citrus zest.

Add Sicilian flavours

Scatter over the capers, olives, chopped herbs, chilli (if using), and almonds or pistachios.

Finish with fruit or vegetables

Decorate with wafer-thin slices of fennel, cucumber, strawberry, or prickly pear for a fresh, colourful touch.

Serve immediately

This dish should remain bright, light, and impeccably fresh.

Pesce crudo as in a Trattoria in Mondello

GREAT BRITISH CHEFS GREAT ITALIAN CHEFS WEBSITE

** Some time ago I was asked to write three articles about Sicily for Great British Chefs/ Great Italian Chefs Website, one was about PESCE CRUDO

Read the complete article: Pesce crudo: Sicily’s love for raw fish

Photo that accompanies article in Great Italian Chef’s website
The other two articles:

Read the complete article: Culture clash: how North Africa changed Sicily forever

Read the complete article: Sicilian arancini: a complete guide

GREAT BRITISH CHEFS, GREAT ITALIAN CHEFS, Feature articles by Marisa Raniolo Wilkins

Other recipes on my blog about sustainable fish :

Raw fish:

PESCE CRUDO, raw fish dishes in Sicily

SARDINE, CRUDE E CONDITE (Sardines; raw and marinaded)

Photo from Sicilian Seafood Cooking. Food stylist Fiona Rigg, photogapher Graeme Gilles.

Sustainability

PASTA CON LE SARDE, an iconic Sicilian recipe from Palermo. Cooked at Slow Food Festival Melbourne

SUSTAINABLE SHELLFISH: Choices Shape the Sea’s Future

THE HUMBLE SARDINE, A SUSTAINABLE CHOICE

SHARKS IN PERIL. Recipe: Pesce in Pastella; fish in batter

ADELAIDE CENTRAL MARKET AT FAIR SEAFOOD

FAIR SEAFOOD, Adelaide Central Market

Soused fish:

PISCI ALL’ AGGHIATA – PESCE ALL’AGLIATA (Soused fish with vinegar, garlic and bay)

MARINADED FISH and a recipe for PESCE IN SAOR

CHEAT FOOD FOR LAUNCH OF SICILIAN SEAFOOD COOKING AT COASIT AND READINGS: Marinaded white anchovies AND Olive Schacciate made with commercially prepared olives


ZUCCHINI WITH CURRANTS, PINE NUTS and SAFFRON

The vibrant combination of currants, pine nuts, fennel seeds and saffron brings out the best in zucchini, turning them into something truly special and unusual for most people who may not be familiar with some of these Sicilian flavours.   The combination of these ingredients create rich, complex flavours, both sweet and savory. The result is perfect for any gathering or as a meal at home.

This dish can be enjoyed served cold as a salad, warm or hot as a side or with pasta. It also makes a good strater.

Sometimes I get caught up in thinking that my everyday recipes aren’t worth sharing, but whenever I serve the different versions of this zucchini dish, I always receive compliments from friends, so it’s time to share the recipe.

If you have ever grown zucchini (or zucchine, is the plural form in Italian!), you know that they quickly multiply, leaving you with an abundance, or as some say – a zucchini glut. I remind growers that zucchini flowers are delicious stuffed, in a frittata or in pasta and I am surprised that many people are not aware of  cooking the flowers. They are also delicious incorporated into this pasta dish.

Those fast-growing squashes turn into rather monstrous vegetables if not harvested quickly (called zucche in Italian once they get to a certain size). These are OK in soups, some people stuff them.

Sautéing onions in olive oil forms the base of this zucchini dish, and you gradually add the other ingredients, each enhancing the others. Depending on your preferences, you can keep the zucchini slightly al dente for a salad and cook them down further for a warm side dish or as a pasta dressing.

A Familiar Flavour in Sicilian cooking 

Those familiar with the Sicilian recipe Pasta con le sarde (pasta with sardines)  , or my recipe for pasta with cauliflower, sultanas, currants and anchovies, both on my blog will notice that the ingredients for this zucchini dish closely mirrors those same combination of flavours in those Sicilian pasta dishes. They also bring out the best in zucchini.

I sometimes add anchovies, a common ingredient in Sicilian cooking; it is a simple way to get amazing depth of flavour. On occasions I don’t use saffron and may use a few cherry tomatoes instead. In the photo below, in the jar, are the anchovies.

A splash of white wine and a little vegetable or chicken stock when braising the zucchini  are ingredients that are common in most of my cooking.

Ingredients

For this dish, I usually estimate two small zucchini per person. If they are very small increase the quantities. Here’s what you’ll need:

8 small zucchini (around 2 per person)

4 tablespoons currants (soaked in a cup of warm water)

1 large onion, chopped

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

4 anchovies, finely chopped (optional, but they bring an incredible depth of flavour, use more or less)

2 bay leaves

1 handful fresh parsley, finely chopped

1 tablespoon fennel seeds

3-4 tablespoons pine nuts (toast them beforehand for an extra flavour boost)

1 small teaspoon saffron, soaked in warm water (let it infuse for at least 30 minutes)

salt, to taste, crushed dried chilies (optional, for a bit of heat) or black pepper

Preparation

Cut the zucchini into small batons or thin rings, depending on your preference. I prefer batons for a more unusual cut, but rings work beautifully too.

 

 In a large frying pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the chopped onion and sauté until it becomes soft and translucent. The aroma will already start to fill your kitchen!

Add the anchovies (optional): If using anchovies, add them now, allowing them to melt into the oil. Stir gently with a wooden spoon, and let the anchovies dissolve, infusing the oil with their savory richness.

Add the zucchini pieces to the pan, along with the bay leaves and fennel seeds. Stir gently, letting the zucchini absorb the oil and spices, and allow them to colour lightly. The goal is to get them nicely coated without overcooking. Add salt at this stage but if you have used anchovies check for salt. Add chiliies if you wish.

Drain the currants and add them, the pine nuts, the chopped parsley, and the saffron (along with its soaking liquid). Season with salt and a pinch of crushed dried chilies, if using. Stir everything gently.

Cover the pan and let everything cook on low heat for about 10 -20 minutes, or until the zucchini are tender, but not mushy. You want them to maintain a slight bite, but if you prefer them softer, cook them a bit longer.

For a Pasta Dish

If you’d like to turn this into a pasta dish  here’s how to do it:

Pasta: Use 300g of dry, short pasta for 4-5 people (or more if it’s your main course).

talians often recommend about 100g of pasta per person, but in our household, 500g of pasta is just right for a first course for 6-8 people. For extra flavour, finish the pasta with some freshly grated Pecorino cheese or toasted breadcrumbs

As a topping: Grated Pecorino (is preferred for Sicilian dishes) or Toasted Breadcrumbs

Breadcrumbs: To make the breadcrumbs, lightly fry 100g of day-old, quality bread (such as sourdough or pasta dura) in a little extra virgin olive oil. Add a pinch of grated lemon peel, a dash of cinnamon, and even a bit of sugar while frying for a fragrant, slightly sweet topping. Serve the breadcrumbs separately, so guests can sprinkle them on as they like.

Cook the pasta according to package instructions, then drain it and toss it into the pan with the zucchini mixture. Let the pasta absorb the flavours for about 5 minutes before serving.

PASTA CON LE SARDE (SARDINES)

PASTA CON LE SARDE, Iconic Sicilian made easy

PASTA RIMESTATA COI CAVOFIORI; Pasta with cauliflower, sultanas, pine nuts and anchovies

EGG PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI FLOWERS, ZUCCHINI, PINE NUTS and STRACCIATELLA (egg drop)

STUFFED ZUCCHINI FLOWERS

PASTA CON ZUCCHINE FRITTE (Pasta and fried zucchini)

EGG PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI FLOWERS, ZUCCHINI, PINE NUTS and STRACCIATELLA (egg drop)

ROASTED CHARRED PEPPERS

The charred elegance of roasted peppers -—simple, bold, and unforgettable!

Peppers (capsicums) charred on a grill capture the essence of Sicilian cuisine. Simple, colourful, fragrant and full of  flavour, this dish transforms humble ingredients into a culinary triumph.

Fresh basil, garlic and good extra virgin olive oil is all that is needed for a tasty salad, but I often keep more in the fridge to add to other dishes.

The Peperoni (peppers) are known as Pipi Arrustuti in Sicilian and Peperoni Arrostiti in Italian. Although they are grilled Arrostiti means roasted.

Especially perfect for summer and autumn when peppers are at their best.

Grilled peppers are versatile and can enhance a variety of dishes with their smoky, sweet flavor and are a fantastic way to add colour, flavour, and nutrition to almost any dish!

My preferred way is to present the Peperoni Arrostiti as an antipasto alongside crusty bread, as a topping for grilled meats, or even as a side dish. Its vibrant colours and robust flavors make it a show-stopping addition to any meal.

Peeling the peppers without rinsing preserves their intense smoky depth.

Peperoni Arrostiti, Roast Peppers

Below some serving suggestions:

Below, roast peppers surrownding some ricotta.

I usually add left over peppers to other salads, either made with uncooked vegetables or cooked, for example :

  • Toss grilled peppers with cucumbers, cherry tomatoes, herbs, black olives, red onion, a drizzle of good olive oil and lemon juice.
  • Combine grilled peppers with grains like quinoa, farro etc, along with rocket, pulses like chickpeas or  any type of beans, roasted pumpkin or grilled zucchini or eggplant and perhaps a tahini dressing.

Ingredients

Peppers: 6, any color (a mix is ideal, with red peppers offering a sweeter note).
extra virgin olive Oil: 1/2 cup
garlic: 3 cloves, chopped
tomatoes: 2 whole, firm and red
basil leaves: About 3/4 cup, torn
salt and black pepper: To taste

Optional Variations:

Mint: replace basil for a fresh twist, a favourite among some parts of Sicily.

Lemon Juice: add a squeeze before serving, a common touch in southern Sicily, especially in Ragusa.

Toasted breadcrumbs (tossed in a hot frypan with a little extra virgin olive oil):  some Sicilians sprinkle toasted breadcrumbs on the grilled peppers before serving. This is also a favourite topping for caponata.

Below, a photo of street food assold from the streets of Palermo.

Process

1. Roast the Peppers

Place the peppers on a BBQ grill over intense heat. Turn them frequently until the skin is blistered and puffy. Once charred, remove them from the grill and place them in a bowl, covering it with a plate or lid. This step allows the peppers to steam, making the skins easier to peel. Alternatively, wrap them in paper or place them in a plastic bag as my mother and relatives often do. Let them sit for at least 10 minutes.

2. Prepare the Tomatoes

Grill the tomatoes briefly until their skins split and char. This process takes only 1-2 minutes. Remove and set aside to cool.

3. Peel and Clean

Using your fingers, peel away the skins of both the peppers and tomatoes, scraping off as much charred skin as possible. Avoid rinsing to preserve the flavor. Split the peppers and remove the seeds, then tear both the peppers and tomatoes into rough strips.

4. Assemble the Dish

Place the torn peppers and tomatoes into a bowl. Add the slivered garlic and torn basil leaves. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil, season with salt and black pepper, and gently toss to combine.

5. Marinate

Let the mixture marinate for at least 30 minutes before serving. The flavors deepen beautifully if allowed to rest overnight.

You can also roast hot peppers/chillies to add to this salad or store them in extra virgin olive oil in the fridge to use elewhere,for example for making Harissa..

See recipe for Harissa.

Harissa made with fresh Chillies

SALSA ROMESCO (Romesco sauce, this recipe is made with roasted peppers, tomatoes and almonds)

ANTIPASTO – GRILLED SUMMER VEGETABLES AND A SCOOP OF SALADS

 

HERB-STUFFED MUSHROOMS: A CULINARY EXPERIMENT

In the realm of cooking, sometimes with a little spontaneity, the simplest dishes surprise us the most and are the most rewarding. These Herb-Stuffed Mushrooms, for instance are stuffed with just a handful of fresh herbs and a bit of kitchen intuition. Here’s the simple recipe that may encourage you to experiment with different herbs.

The stems of the mushroom are dense and meaty and when blended with the herbs thicken the stuffing.

Nuts, cheese or a bit of bread to the blend will also stiffen the stuffing.

In this mixture I added mint and a little grated lemon peel to add a fresh taste. I trusted my culinary judgement and  some bread crumbs on top of the stuffing to add some crunch and texture.

Once baked, these Herb-Stuffed Mushrooms had an irresistible aroma and a nice crunch from the breadcrumbs.

Whether served hot or at room temperature, they make for a delightful appetizer or a side dish that complements any meal.

In Italian, herbs are called erbe aromatiche. These mushrooms would be more appealing if they were described as: Funghi gratinati al forno, con erbe aromatiche.

Ingredients:

  • Large mushrooms, with a good cavity for stuffing and intact stems
  • Fresh herbs: thyme, marjoram, parsley, mint (adjust according to taste)
  • Grated lemon peel
  • 1 large clove of garlic, peeled
  • Extra virgin olive oil (sufficient for blending)
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • Breadcrumbs made from good quality, day-old bread, blended with a little extra virgin olive oil

Instructions:

Clean the mushrooms by wiping them with a damp cloth. Carefully remove the stems, ensuring the caps remain intact.

Prepare the Herb Blend:

In a blender, combine the herbs (thyme, marjoram, parsley), mushroom stems (cut into small pieces), peeled garlic clove, a pinch of salt, ground pepper, and a generous glug of extra virgin olive oil. Blend until the mixture reaches a puree-like consistency.

Stuff and Bake:

Preheat the oven to 170-180°C (340-360°F).

Place the cleaned mushroom caps in a baking dish lightly greased with extra virgin olive oil.

Spoon the herb mixture evenly into each mushroom cap, filling them generously.

In a separate bowl, mix breadcrumbs with a little extra virgin olive oil until coated. Sprinkle the breadcrumb mixture over each stuffed mushroom.

Bake and Serve:

Place the baking dish in the preheated oven and bake for about 20 minutes, or until the mushrooms are tender and the breadcrumbs turn golden brown.

More Ideas:

Cooking, for me is about being creative and trusting my culinary instincts.

Experiment with different herb combinations or add a few nuts or a little cheese to suit your taste preferences. Here are a few ideas:

Use rosemary, sage, parsley as the herbs for the stuffing. If I wanted to add nuts, I would select almonds or walnuts. I am unlikely to add cheese here, as the mixture would overpower the taste of the cheese.

Oregano is a strong tasting herb and I might pair it with thyme and a bit of parsley to tame the aromas. I would probably add some anchovies because these will complement the strong flavours, no nuts, but a little grated pecorino would be perfect.

When using basil or soft spinach as the main ingredients for a stuffing, I would select pine nuts or pistachio. These are not strong tasting nuts and would not be overpowering. If I wanted to add cheese I would add Parmigiano or fresh ricotta. Both are mild cheeses. I would also add a bit of nutmeg.

 I recently blended leftover parsley, fresh coriander, and watercress stems (left over from the makings of a salad), which turned out excellent. However, if you’re hosting Italians, be mindful that coriander isn’t commonly favored in Italian cuisine. Nevertheless, there are also many non-Italian friends who aren’t fond of coriander. If you consider adding nuts, raw peanuts would complement the Asian flavors well.

Grated lemon peel added to stuffings is excellent.

STUFFED BAKED MUSHROOMS with Nepitella

STUFFED MUSHROOMS with pine nuts and fresh breadcrumbs – Funghi ripieni

 

PARMIGIANA, uncomplicated

When I first came to Australia with my parents (1956), eggplants (aubergines/ melanzane in Italian) were non-existent commercially in Adelaide and probably in the rest of Australia.  I remember friends moving to Canberra in the 80’s and they had to order eggplants from the Sydney markets.

Like so many vegetables that were unfamiliar in Australia, it took a few seed smugglers some time before eggplants were grown in home gardens, and even more years before they were found in produce markets and green grocers’ shops.

Now of course, there are many types of seeds that have been imported legally into Australia and sold in many Italian produce stores.

There are Asian varieties of eggplants as well as the Mediterranean ones in Australia. Trade and migration has made eggplants a typical Mediterranean plant, but they originated from the south-east Asia and in particular from India and China.

Eggplants come in different shapes and sizes – long, thin, wide, round, small and large and they cam be grown commercially as well as successfully in most home gardens . (The eggplant above is grown in my son’s home garden in Adelaide).

The colour of eggplants range from the traditional dark purple types through to violet, lavender, pink, green and creamy-white varieties. There are also variegated types.

When I think of eggplants, I think of Sicily where the most intense cultivation takes place in Italy.

Sicily has the highest numbers of eggplants in terms of cultivation and production; they are available at all times of the year because they can be grown in serre (greenhouses) in all seasons especially in the Ragusa area, where my father’s relatives are based.

And Sicily is where some of the most famous recipes for Italian eggplant dishes initiated, for example:  Eggplant Caponata from Palermo, Pasta alla Norma from Catania and Parmigiana di Melazane (Eggplant Parmigiana) with some slight variations from all over Sicily.

Parmigiana is now one of the best-known and widespread dishes of Italian cuisine but its origin is disputed between the regions of Sicily, Campania and Emilia-Romagna. However I have always believed Parmigiana to be Sicilian. Since I was a young child I have eaten many servings of Parmigiana cooked by family and friends, in homes and in restaurants all over Sicily and I support the theory that it is a Sicilian specialty.

Parmigiana is what I am going to write about in this post.

Recently a friend (and an excellent home cook) prepared Yotem Ottolenghi’s Aubergine Dumplings Alla Parmigiana, from the book Flavor. It was a marvellous dinner and I enjoyed eating these vegetarian meatballs very much.

The ingredients for Ottolenghi’s recipe are cubed eggplants, roasted till soft and caramelized, then mashed and mixed with herbs and spices, ricotta, Parmesan, basil, bound with eggs, breadcrumbs and flour. While the mixture rests, a tomato salsa needs to be made, the dumplings are fried and then baked in the tomato salsa.

When I looked at Ottolenghi’s recipe, I was amazed at just how many steps have to be covered compared with the time it would take to cook the traditional Parmigiana. A few days later a friend came to dinner and I made a simple Parmigiana.

I baked the eggplants this time rather than fried them..

Made the tomato salsa.

Proceeded to layer the salsa, eggplants, grated cheese and because the Ottoleghi recipe had ricotta, and because ricotta seems to have become an addition to the traditional Parmigiana recipe all over the web, I also added ricotta between the layers.

What it looked like before I placed it in the oven.

And I presented the Parmigiana with roast peppers and a green salad.

I don’t know how long my version took, but it tasted good.

Parmigiana can also be made with fried zucchini.

Parmigiana can also be made with fried zucchini. It is worth cooking it.

**** I  first wrote a post on my blog in 2009 about how the name of the recipe originated and recipe of a traditional Parmigiana. The recipe is also in my book Sicilian Seafood Cooking.  The background information about Parmigiana is  fascinating. The post is worth reading:

EGGPLANT or ZUCCHINI PARMIGIANA

TRADITIONAL FOOD – Festive Season

Italian traditional and regional recipes for the upcoming festive season.

Usually my month of December is just so busy that I don’t have time to investigate new recipes and I tend to rely on old favourites that I can cook with my eyes closed. Some of these old favourites are: Pasta Con Le Sarde; Baccalà cooked in various ways; a Risotto or Pasta with squid and black ink with green peas; Mussels/ Cozze; Tuna/Tonno steaks also cooked in different ways: Insalata Russa; Grilled seasonal vegetables/ Verdura all griglia like zucchini, peppers and eggplants; and for dessert, there is either Zuppa Inglese with Arkemes (Alchermes) or a Sicilian Cassata., made with ricotta.

You will find all of these recipes on my blog.

This year I am in Adelaide for Christmas. I had given my family in Adelaide some options of what I could cook for Christmas Eve, but they all asked for two old favourites –  Baccalà Mantecato and Caponata Catanese as part of the antipasti….. same old, same old.

The Baccalà Mantecato is from the Veneto region in Italy and something that was very common in Trieste (Friuli-Venezia Giulia) where my parents and I lived when I was a child.  The baccalà is soaked in water for 3 days, then poached in milk, bay and a couple of garlic cloves, drianed and creamed with extra virgin oilve oil. It is spread on crostini – bread brushed with oil and toasted. The crostini my mother made were toased in a frypan and never in the oven. Crostini made with polenta are also favourites… but who has the time?

In the photo below is the soaked baccalà.

The Caponata Catanese is from Catania in Sicily.  Unlike the Caponata from Palermo that is made with eggplants. This version is made with peppers as well as eggplants and the usual caponata ingredients of green olives, celery, a bit of tomato paste and the agro-dolce, (a sweet and sour sauce). This is topped with pine nuts and basil.

So let’s just share a recipe for Christmas, but remember that at this time of year it is hot in Australia (because it is summer), if it is winter where you are, you may not even consider cooking it. It is braised lentils cooked wit Cotechino…..Cotechino con le lenticchie.

Although I would never serve this at midnight as was customary in some parts of Emilia-Romagna where the dish originates, it is an interesting choice. The Cotechino is a rich seasoned pork sausage that I poach with the lentils. The thick  sausage is then sliced and served on top of a bed of braised lentils.

The green lentils that resemble the shape of coins are intended to bring you prosperity in the New Year.

COTECHINO AND LENTILS; NEW YEAR’S EVE and CHRISTMAS

New Year’s Eve Baccalà Mantecato

BACCALÀ MANTECATO, risotto

CAPONATA recipes:

THE MANY VERSIONS OF CAPONATE

CAPONATA Catanese (from Catania) made easy with photos

CAPONATA FROM PALERMO (made with eggplants)

CAPONATA DI NATALE (Christmas, winter caponata made with celery, almonds and sultanas)

A MOUNTAIN OF CAPONATA: two days before Christmas

Photos of the caponata cooked in Melbourne and brought to Adelaide. Once again I used my heavy large wok to cook each of the vegetables separately.

HOW ONE FISH RECIPE CAN EVOLVE INTO A DIFFERENT DISH

Somehow, I ended up eating fish for most of the week, and part of the first recipe lead into the second, and part of the second led into the third, but each dish was unique.

Of course there were also left overs.

I made Baccalà Mantecato on the weekend. The baccalà has to be soaked for a couple of days before it is poached in milk with some bay leaves and a clove of garlic. It is a dish that comes from the Veneto region and is also particularly popular in Trieste (Friuli Venezia Giulia).

Cooking the garlic in milk softens the taste and once blended with the baccalà and extra virgin olive oil, the taste of the garlic is less aggressive.

I always save the poaching liquid whether I poach the baccalà in milk or in water, and I did this a couple of days later when I made Baccalà Mantecato for a friend who is allegic to diary.

I cooked fish again. I bought some fish cutlets, slices cut horizontally, each steak usually has four distinct fleshy segments and each segment can be studded with a different flavour. Below is a photo of what I expect when I buy this cut of fish that I use regularly. I have included a link to a full recipe at the end of this post.

The photo below shows the four distinct segments of fish that surround the central spine, each receptive to a different flavour. It looks like on that occasion I studded the segments with cloves, oregano, fennel and garlic. At other times I have used sage, cinnamon, dill, thyme, rosemary or tarragon. The flavours I use for the stuffing will also determine what use to deglaze the pan after I have sauteed the fish, for example on various occasions I have used dry marsala (especially for Sicilian cooking), vermouth, Pernod and a variety of white wines that impart different flavours to the fish. Lemon juice or vinegar is also good.

When I opened the parcel and was ready to stud my fish, I noticed that only one slice was as I expected (cut from the tail end of the fish), but the other slices included what I call ‘flaps’, the often long and bony sides of fish encasing the gut of the fish.

It is part of the fish’s anatomy, but what I objected to was that the slices in the display cabinet were all the same size. These slices were not at all suitable for inserting with four different flavours; they were also difficult to fit into the frypan comfortably.

I cut the flaps off and only used two flavours to stud into the flesh of the fish – garlic and thyme.

I pan fried the fish, added some herbs – fresh fennel fronds and parsley. I deglazed the pan with a splash of white wine, evaporated it, added a little of the stock from the baccalà, added some capers.

What to do with the flaps?

The next day I poached the flaps in water flavoured with some onion, whole peppercorns, bay leaves, a little celery. This gave me some extra fish stock as well as an opportunity to remove the flesh and discard the skin and bones. I discarded the greenery.

I had the makings of a fish risotto.

Making a risotto is easy. I decided to add peas, frozen at this time of year and herbs of course, as in all of my cooking.

I softened one chopped onion in butter and extra virgin olive oil, added 1 cup of rice to the pan and toasted the rice. A splash of white wine, evaporated it, added 1 cup of peas and some chopped parsley and fennel. Tossed them all in the hot pan, added a little salt and then proceeded to add the milk stock from the baccalà and the stock used to poach the flaps of the fish to cook the risotto.

I added the fish pieces to the risotto when it was nearly cooked (to warm it), the grated rind and juice of a lemon and at the very end some butter and black pepper.

There was enough for lunch the next day and the evolving fish meals stopped there!

FISH STUDDED WITH SICILIAN FLAVOURS

BACCALÀ MANTECATO (Creamed salt cod, popular in the Veneto region and Trieste)

New Year’s Eve Baccalà Mantecato

BACCALÀ MANTECATO, risotto

 

PEPERONATA(SICILIAN SWEET AND SOUR PEPPERS)

When it comes to making a Peperonata I become a testa dura (a hard head, someone who resists change).

For me, like so many other Sicilian recipes, I never include tomatoes or passata.

My maternal grandmother from Catania used to make it and I always remember her adding some water. You may find this strange, but it does soften the peppers and this water does evaporate.

The other thing I like to include in my Peperonata is vinegar and a little sugar. This also makes it an agro-dolce dish.

Yellow and red peppers are common in a Peperonata, simply because they are sweeter in taste. The multi coloured peppers add visual impact.

On this occasion I just used red peppers becausein South Australia red peppers are still abundant, they were firm and fresh specimens. 

There are variations to making Peperonata, and this will not surprise you one bit.  For example, apart from adding tomatoes, some add black olives or cubed potatoes.

But not me!

In some parts of Sicily, the Peperonata is topped with toasted breadcrumbs (good white bread, coarse crumbs tossed in a frypan with hot extra virgin olive oil). I must admit that the breadcrumbs (as the cubed potatoes) do soak up some of the juices and add a different texture.

But not me… well, not always!

I like to present it as an antipasto with good bread.
I always serve it cold.

Peperonata is relatively easy to make, you just have to make sure that there is sufficient liquid in the pan so that the peppers don’t stick.

Obviously, you can also imagine this dish paired with baked ricotta or burrata. Because of the vinegar and the sugar, and just like a pickle, it pairs well with some small goods – breasaola, lomba, ossocollo…those lean thin slices of meat.

It is delicious as a stuffing for a panino or for a bruschetta…not that I ever make bruschetta, it is far too trendy!

How I make Peperonata

3 white onions, 1 clove of garlic chopped finely

6 peppers of mixed colours, but the red and yellow peppers are sweeter

 ½ cup of extra virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons of white or red wine vinegar

salt and black pepper, to taste

1 teaspoons of sugar, to taste

Slice the onions finely. Core the peppers and cut them into strips.

Heat the oil, soften the onion and then add the peppers and the garlic and sauté the ingredients.
Cover with a lid and continue cooking for about 10 minutes. Stir occasionally to prevent onions and peppers from sticking to the bottom.

When the peppers start to soften add about 1/4 cup of water. Stir to coat all the peppers well.

Cover with the lid again, add salt and pepper and continue cooking them on slow heat for about 10 minutes. Remove the lid, turn up the heat, add the vinegar and the sugar. Turn up the heat, stir the ingredients to coat them and evaporate some of the liquid.

Add fresh basil leaves or fresh oregano. Place into a container and leave the peperonata for at least 4 hours for the flavours to intensify. I like to leave it overnight in a covered container in the fridge.

Serve at room temperature.

At the time of serving you may wish to remove the spent oregano / basil and replace it with fresh leaves.

PEPERONATA; PIPIRONATA (Sicilian) Braised peppers

PEPPERS WITH BREADCRUMBS- PIPI CA MUDDICA – PEPERONI CON LA MOLLICA