Category: Contorno/ Vegetables

Celeriac and Kohlrabi: Italian recipes for Two Unusual Vegetables

As the season of spring arrives in Melbourne, I’m still enjoying celeriac and kohlrabi, two unusual vegetables that are still available in September and October at the Queen Victoria Market.

Celeriac and Kohlrabi: Strange-Looking but Delicious

Celeriac and kohlrabi could be described as particularly beautiful. Celeriac is knobbly, tangled and earthy; kohlrabi has a swollen round stem with leaf stalks projecting from it, but these rather inhospitable exteriors are two versatile and delicious vegetables.

Not the prettiest vegetables at the market, but celeriac and kohlrabi reward the cook who looks beyond appearances.

The specimens in my photographs are particularly rugged. A careful grower or more selective retailer might have rejected them before they have reached this  mature end of season stage.

Kohlrabi is best harvested young because large, mature plants can become tough and woody. Celeriac is more forgiving and can grow to a considerable size while remaining perfectly good to eat.

A younger looking kohlrabi as usually sold at the beginning of their season
When Are Celeriac and Kohlrabi in Season?

Celeriac is very much a vegetable of the cooler months and has a long growing season. In the Northern Hemisphere it is generally harvested from autumn through winter and into early spring; in UK, for example, the main season extends roughly from October to March.In Italy kohlrabi grows during two main seasonal cycles: a spring crop from May to June and an autumn-to-winter crop from October to November.

 In the southern part of Australia the seasons are reversed, making celeriac predominantly an autumn and winter vegetable, although local climate and growing conditions can extend its availability.

Kohlrabi is a member of the brassica family. It grows quickly and also prefers cool conditions. When harvested young, its swollen stem is crisp, juicy and mildly sweet, with flavours reminiscent of cabbage stem, broccoli and turnip. It can be eaten raw, steamed, sautéed, roasted, stuffed or added to soups and stews.

In Europe, successive crops can provide young kohlrabi from late spring through autumn and into early winter in milder regions. In temperate parts of the Southern Hemisphere, spring and autumn provide particularly favourable growing conditions but too much heat or dry weather can encourage older specimens to become tough and woody.

Green coloured Kohlrabi sold with substantial amounts of leaves that I bought in Vietnam!

The leaves of kohlrabi are edible too and can be cooked like other leafy brassicas.

A much younger me holding a bunch of leafy Kohlrabi (cavolo rapa) that my relatives in Ragusa use to make with pasta (Causunnedda )

My relatives in Ragusa use them in a delicious, rather soupy pasta dish. I was always intrigued by the kohlrabi they bought there: very leafy, with relatively small swollen stems, and invariably beautifully tender. The violet varieties of kohlrabi are prominent in Italy and eventually they will also be common in Australia.

Kohlrabi in the Market in Syracuse. Bought young has crisp, juicy flesh, but the leaves are valuable too—something Sicilian cooks have long understood.
Versatility of CELERIAC and Kohlrabi

Perhaps because of their uncompromising appearance, celeriac and kohlrabi are easily overlooked, but European cooks have long recognised their value. Both can move comfortably between raw and cooked dishes and take well to strong flavours as well as simple preparations.

They are also suited to preserving. In Central and Eastern European food traditions, firm vegetables have long been preserved in vinegar, brine or through fermentation, sometimes with herbs, mustard seeds and spices. Kohlrabi and celeriac lend themselves particularly well to pickling because of their firm texture and ability to retain some crunch.

I have written about both vegetables before, with recipes and examples of how they are prepared in different parts of Italy. Use the links to see those earlier posts.

Two northern Italian recipes that demonstrate Celeriac and Kohlrabi recipes

Two distinct recipes from Northern Italy are here: a hearty Veronese minestra with celeriac, borlotti beans, sausage, and tagliatelle, and a Trentino–Alto Adige preparation of kohlrabi slowly cooked with butter and cream until tender.

Recipe: Minestra di Sedano Rapa Tagliatelle –Veronese Celeriac, Borlotti Bean and Tagliatelle Soup

This substantial minestra from Verona is made with celeriac, borlotti beans, fresh pork sausage and egg tagliatelle. The celeriac softens during the long cooking and contributes the distinctive celery-like fragrance, while the beans give the soup body and the fresh sausage adds richness.

Grande Enciclopedia Illustrata della Gastronomia

I found this recipe in my 1990 edition of Grande Enciclopedia Illustrata della Gastronomia, where it is attributed to Giovanni Capnist’s La cucina veronese.

The accompanying text written in Italian makes an interesting distinction: although celeriac has essentially the same aroma as ordinary celery, it is not used simply as an aromatic but treated as a vegetable in its own right, both raw and cooked.

This minestra demonstrates that particularly well. Celeriac is not hiding in the background as we do with celery stalks,  it is one of the substantial ingredients around which the dish is built.

Serves 6–8

Ingredients
  • 400 g dried borlotti beans
  • 1 celeriac, about 500–600 g before trimming
  • 1 large onion
  • 1 carrot
  • 4 small fresh pork sausages
  • 1.5 litres beef broth
  • 200 g dried egg tagliatelle
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • Extra virgin olive oil, to serve — the original suggests olive oil from Lake Garda

METHOD

Soak the borlotti beans overnight, then drain.

Peel and trim the celeriac and cut it into small pieces. Roughly chop the onion and carrot and remove the sausage meat from its casings.

Place the beans, celeriac, onion, carrot and sausage meat in a large saucepan. Add the beef broth and bring gently to a simmer.

Cook over low heat for at least 2 hours, stirring occasionally so that the ingredients do not catch on the bottom of the pan. Season with salt and pepper.

About 20 minutes before the end of cooking, add the dried egg tagliatelle. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is al dente.

Remove from the heat and allow the minestra to settle and cool slightly before serving. For a thicker consistency, mash some of the tender borlotti beans against the side of the pot and stir them back through the soup.

If desired, finish each serving with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil*

 An Interesting point: *The original Italian recipe finishes with:

“Servire, condendo se piace con un filo di olio d’oliva del Garda.” – If desired, serve, with a drizzle of  olive oil from Grada.

That reference to Lake Garda olive oil is not an incidental detail. Verona lies just east of Lake Garda, where the moderating influence of the lake has allowed olives to be cultivated unusually far north. A final thread of local olive oil therefore gives the dish an unmistakable local,  geographical connection.

Recipe: Cavolo Rapa Soffocato – An Alto Adige Way with Kohlrabi

I have found versions of this traditional Alto Adige dish in two of my cookery books. In my 1990 Grande Enciclopedia Illustrata della Gastronomia it appears as Cavolo rapa stufato, while Osteria: 1,000 Generous and Simple Recipes from Italy’s Best Local Restaurants, published by Slow Food Editore, calls it Cavolo rapa soffocato – smothered kohlrabi.

Osteria: 1,000 Generous and Simple Recipes from Italy’s Best Local Restaurants,Slow Food Editore

The recipes are essentially the same, but I much prefer the straightforward, simple instructions in Osteria.

What makes the recipe particularly interesting is that it treats kohlrabi quite differently from the crisp vegetable we might expect in a salad or pickle. Here there is no attempt to preserve its crunch. The kohlrabi is deliberately cooked for an hour until very tender, with butter, a little sugar and flour, before being finished with cream. The sugar encourages browning and enhances the vegetable’s natural sweetness, while the flour and cream turn the cooking juices into a light sauce.

It is rich, comforting and distinctly Alpine in character and an excellent example of what northern Italian cooks can do with this rather austere-looking vegetable. The cream and butter are also characteristic of this very northern Italian Cuisine.

The recipe in Osteria is attributed to Klaus Mayr of Renon–Ritten, in Bolzano–Bozen, Trentino–Alto Adige.

I have not made this recipe yet, but although it is a side dish, I rather like the idea of presenting it as a hot dip with warm bread. I doubt very much it the Bolzano crew would be impressed!

Cavolo Rapa Soffocato — Smothered Kohlrabi

Serves 4

Ingredients
  • 6 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • 4 kohlrabi, diced
  • 1 tablespoon plain flour
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • ½ cup cream
Method

Melt the butter in a saucepan and add the sugar. Cook over medium heat, stirring, until the sugar begins to caramelise.

Add the diced kohlrabi, sprinkle with the flour and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring so that it does not stick, until the kohlrabi begins to brown.

Add ½ cup cold water, cover and cook over low heat for about 1 hour. Check occasionally and add a little more water if the pan becomes too dry.

Uncover, stir in the cream and cook for a few more minutes, stirring frequently, until the sauce has thickened. Serve warm.

A finishing comment: There is something very appealing about these two recipes sitting together. Celeriac and kohlrabi may be awkward-looking vegetables, but neither is treated timidly in these northern Italian dishes. In Verona, celeriac becomes part of a substantial minestra with beans, sausage and pasta; in Alto Adige, kohlrabi is slowly smothered with butter and cream. Both recipes make a convincing case for looking beyond appearances—and perhaps for giving these vegetables a little more space in our kitchens.

Other recipes on the blog:

UNVEILING KOHLRABI, a BRASSICA

KOHLRABI with pasta (Causunnedda )

KOHLRABI, as eaten in Sicily

Kohlrabi, Fennel, Celeriac and Daikon make a good salad (and other recipes)

A WET PASTA DISH WITH KOHLRABI

KOHLRABI and TENERUMI, shared between cultures of Sicily and Vietnam

SEDANO RAPA (Celeriac and how to eat it) 

I am surprised that there is only one post about celeriac as I use it quite a bit, however you will find a number of different ways to prepare it in the above link

PUNTARELLE Cooked with Tomatoes, Garlic and Anchovies

I ate Puntarelle cooked with tomatoes, garlic and anchovies as a side dish several years ago in Venice. This is the photo below:

Cooked puntarelle as presented in a restaurant in Venice

A Venetian inspiration for a simple pasta sauce or contorno

Venice Cannaregio, a view from our accomodation

Puntarelle are one of my favourite Italian vegetables, and because I now can find them in a stall at Queen Victoria Market I buy them. Although they are best known in the classic Roman salad of finely sliced shoots dressed with anchovy, garlic and olive oil, puntarelle can also be cooked to make an excellent contorno or a delicious pasta sauce.

One of a number of puntarelle salads I have made recently

A memory from Cannaregio, Venice

This dish is inspired by a meal I enjoyed in Cannaregio, one of Venice’s most authentic neighbourhoods, during my visit to the Venice Biennale in 2019. Away from the busiest tourist routes, Cannaregio still retains the atmosphere of a lived-in Venetian district, with local markets, small trattorie and canals that invite leisurely wandering.

 

‎⁨Guglie⁩/ Cannaregio ⁨Venezia⁩, ⁨Venice⁩

One of the dishes I ordered  at a restaurant was a simple plate of cooked puntarelle that was tossed with tomatoes and I remembered tasting, garlic and anchovies. It was uncomplicated cooking, but memorable because puntarelle were impossible to find in Melbourne or in Adwhere I have found many vegetables that I have had difficulties finding in Melbourne.

Another person ordered the salad. This had red radicchio in it as well as tomatoes and the usual anchovy and garlic dressing.

The puntarelle salad in Venice

The results were a simple recipe with remarkable flavour. Italian cooking often demonstrates that excellent dishes require very few ingredients. In this recipe, the slight bitterness of puntarelle, the sweetness of tomatoes and the savoury richness of anchovies create a balance that is both elegant and deeply satisfying. It is a reminder that some of the most memorable meals are also the simplest.

Puntarelle in Melbourne

Recently I have been making the most of the puntarelle available from Sophia’s stall at the Queen Victoria Market. Most often I prepare the traditional salad with an anchovy and garlic dressing and have made a few of these now.

The bunches sold in Melbourne, however, usually contain fewer leaves than those I have purchased in Italy. To prepare them as a cooked vegetable, I often combine the leaves with other bitter greens such as chicory, endive or cime di rapa, which have similar flavours and cooking qualities.

One of the bunches of puntarelle I have bought in Melbourne
This bunch of puntarelle bought in Melbourne has slightly more leaves

When I was staying in an Airbnb in Venice, I also bought a bunch of puntarelle and cooked both the spears and leaves together simply in extra virgin olive oil and garlic. The Venetian bunch was much leafier than those I generally find in Melbourne, making it particularly suitable for cooking.

This is the bunch of puntarelle I bought in Venice…. very leafy.

And recently I cooked puntarelle in much the same way that I cook cime di rapa for pasta or cicoria ripassata.

A simple contorno or pasta sauce

The version I remembered from Venice included tomatoes, so I decided to recreate it at home. Because good fresh baby tomatoes taste bland during winter, I used quality tinned baby tomatoes drained of their juice instead. Their sweetness balances the gentle bitterness of the puntarelle beautifully.

Drained tinned baby tomatoes

 As with all of the green leafy vegetables as I braise with garlic and anchovies and sometimes chilli, the anchovies melt into the olive oil, creating depth while the garlic provides the familiar flavour combination found throughout Italian regional cooking.

Braised/sauteed puntarelle are equally enjoyable served as a vegetable side dish or tossed through pasta. I prefer short pasta. Because the bunches I buy at the Queen Victoria Market  don’t contain many leaves and chicory, endive or cime di rapa are in season, I add more green leaves as well.

In this version I added cooked cime di rapa
RECIPE: PUNTARELLE Cooked with Tomatoes, Garlic and Anchovies
Ingredients
  • 1 bunch puntarelle, including shoots and leaves
  • Extra leaves of chicory, endive or cime di rapa if needed
  • 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 2-3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
  • 6 anchovy fillets (or more) in oil cut into smaller pieces
  • 250-300 g baby tomatoes (fresh when in season or good-quality tinned baby tomatoes)
  • ground black pepper or pinch of chilli flakes (optional)
  • salt if you need it.
For serving: 3-4 people
  • 350g pasta
  • Grated pecorino or toasted breadcrumbs toasted in extra virgin olive oil if desired. (Pecorino is stronger tasting than parmesan cheese and probably better suited)
Method
  • Prepare the puntarelle

Wash the puntarelle thoroughly. Separate the shoots and leaves and cut into bite-sized pieces. If the quantity of leaves is limited, add some chopped chicory, endive or cime di rapa. (*On this occasion I added some already cooked cime di rapa that I had in my fridge.)

Traditionally, if serving the greens with the pasta, they are blanched in salted boiling water for five minutes or more (depending on quantity and texture). If using the mixture as a pasta sauce, reserve some of the cooking water. However, I prefer a modern method: sauté the greens directly without parboiling (once again depending on quantity and texture).

  • Make the sauce

Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan.

Add the anchovies and stir until they dissolve into the oil. Add the garlic until fragrant but not coloured.

Stir in the green leaves, toss around in the pan and when they wilt, add about a tablespoon of water, put on the lid and soften further. Remove them from the pan and set aside.

Add a little more oil to the pan, add the puntarelle spears and cook for a few minutes until softened but still vibrant. (**I added the cooked left over cime di rapa after I cooked the puntarelle and tomatoes).

Add the tomatoes and cook for several minutes until they soften and release their juices. Season with black pepper and chilli flakes if using.

I added the cooked left over cime di rapa after I cooked the puntarelle and tomatoes

Serve as a contorno – grilled fish or meat, roasted meats (nothing juicy).

To serve with pasta
  • Cook the pasta until al dente.
  • Transfer it directly to the pan with the puntarelle mixture, adding a little reserved pasta cooking water if necessary to create a silky sauce. Toss well and serve  plain or with grated pecorino or toasted breadcrumbs, according to your preference.

Puntarelle alla Romana and Cicoria Ripassata

CICORIA and Puntarelle (Chicory)

Puntarelle alla Romana and Cicoria Ripassata

Puntarelle alla Romana and Cicoria Ripassata are two classic Roman dishes that celebrate Italy’s fondness for bitter greens. Both are types of chicory.

Puntarelle

Puntarelle are a distinctive type of Italian chicory (cicoria catalogna), especially associated with Rome and the Lazio region, where they appear in markets during the cooler months.

Punterrelle, a type of chicory

I have always loved Italy’s bitter greens — cicoria, radicchio, indivia, cime did rape, dandelion  — flavours that many people initially find challenging, but which Italians value for their slight bitterness. Puntarelle belong firmly within this tradition.

The plant has long serrated leaves, but the prized part is the pale green central shoots that are tender, crunchy and slightly bitter.

The shoots of the Puntarelle

Their texture and flavour make them especially refreshing when eaten raw.

Puntarelle – vegetable with some of the outer leaves removed

Puntarelle, even more so than chicory, are not a common vegetable. I have only purchased Puntarelle twice in Australia, once from Carmel and Gus’s stall at the Queen Victoria Market and now I was delighted to find it at Daniel’s stall in the B Shed Shop 23-26. The stall is called Sophia’s.

The classic Roman preparation is Puntarelle alla Romana. The shoots are sliced finely into thin strips and soaked in iced water until they curl and become wonderfully crisp – a bit like curling celery.

Curled puntarelle after being soaked in iced water

They are then dressed simply with olive oil, garlic, anchovy and vinegar or lemon juice. The flavour is sharp, savoury and refreshing at the same time. Sometimes hard boiled eggs are added to the dressed salad and this makes this dish extra suitable as a starter.

The ingredients for the dressing

Like many Italian vegetables, very little is wasted. The outer leaves are often boiled or sautéed with olive oil, garlic and chilli in the style of cicoria ripassata, much like other bitter greens prepared throughout Italy.  I have added this recipe because I have mentioned that the course outer leaves are cooked and not wasted.

A mixture of  leafy greens can be added with the outer leaves of the Punterelle as there are likely insufficient greens to cook in this manner.

I particularly appreciate puntarelle because they reflect something essential about Italian cooking: the ability to transform a simple seasonal vegetable into something elegant through restraint and balance rather than complexity.

For those who enjoy vegetables such as dandelion greens, chicory or radicchio, puntarelle offer a similar bitterness but with a particularly crisp texture and elegant appearance. They pair beautifully with anchovies, citrus, capers, olives and robust olive oil — flavours that appear frequently in Roman and southern Italian cooking.

ROME’S BITTER GREENS

Puntarelle alla Romana

This is one of Rome’s most characteristic salads — crisp, bitter and refreshing, with the salty sharpness of anchovy balancing the chicory beautifully.

Ingredients
  • 1 bunch puntarelle (mine was one plant)
  • 4 -8 anchovy fillets
  • 1-2 garlic clove
  • 2–3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 1-2  tablespoon white wine vinegar or lemon juice
  • Freshly ground black pepper
Preparing the Puntarelle

Separate the pale inner shoots from the outer leaves. Save the small leaves to add to the salad.

Slice the shoots finely into thin strips. Traditionally they are cut very thinly so they curl easily.

Place the strips into a bowl of iced water for about 30 minutes. This helps them curl and become crisp.

Preparing the Dressing

Traditionally, anchovies and garlic are crushed together to form a paste. Add olive oil and vinegar or lemon juice and mix well.

Alternatively, the garlic can be crushed and placed in a jar with the oil and lemon juice. The anchovies are then cut into small pieces and mixed together just before dressing the salad. I prefer to do this as it allows for a more visual presentation. 

The dressing: Chopped anchovies and a mixture of extra virgin olive oil, squeezed garlic, and lemon juice
Assembling the Salad

Drain the puntarelle thoroughly and dress just before serving.

Taste and adjust seasoning carefully — the anchovies are already salty.

Punterelle alla Romana – salad

The salad is excellent with grilled fish, roasted meats or simply with bread especially when there are boiled eggs in the salad.

 We had it as an accompaniment to a seafood Paella.

Cicoria Ripassata

This is one of the simplest and most satisfying ways Italians cook bitter greens. The word ripassata refers to the greens being “passed again” through the pan after boiling.

Cicoria – Chicory
Ingredients
  • 1 large bunch cicoria or other bitter greens including the outer leaves of the Puntarelle
  • 2–3 garlic cloves, sliced
  • Chilli flakes or fresh chilli to taste
  • Extra virgin olive oil
  • Salt
Cooking the Greens
  1. Wash the greens thoroughly and trim any tough stems.
  2. Boil in salted water until tender — usually about 10–15 minutes depending on the maturity of the greens.
  3. Drain well and gently squeeze out excess water. Chop roughly if the leaves are large.
  4. Heat generous olive oil in a frying pan.
  5. Add the garlic and chilli and cook briefly until fragrant, but do not allow the garlic to burn.
  6. Add the greens and sauté for several minutes so they absorb the flavours of the oil.
  7. Taste for salt and serve warm or at room temperature.

In Rome this dish is often served alongside grilled sausages or roasted meats, especially pork – the bitterness counteracts the fatty nature of the meat.

CICORIA and Puntarelle (Chicory)

CICORETTA CON SALSICCIA (Chicory with fresh pork sausage)

ITALIAN BITTER LEAF SALAD

WANT NOT WASTE NOT- Chicken livers and chicory, twice

THE SUBTLE POWER OF VINEGAR: HOW ITALIANS BALANCE FLAVOUR

The subtle power of vinegar and how Italians balance flavour is something I appreciate in my own kitchen. Beyond acidity and preservation, vinegar brings balance, gives structure to a dish, and harmony in everyday cooking.Italian cuisine has always been attentive to relationships on the palate: fat is balanced with acidity, sweetness is moderated by bitterness and warm dishes are often refreshed with a sharp element. I often deglaze pans with vinegar. A small splash in a warm pan releases an aroma and sharpness that immediately awakens the senses. And it smells fantastic!

Lemon brightens flavours and highlights bitterness, but vinegar behaves differently. It softens and steadies strong tastes, preventing them from becoming overpowering. Consequently, selecting the appropriate vinegar is a deliberate decision that is part of the cooking process.

In my pantry you will find several types of vinegar —  commercial red wine vinegar, white wine vinegar, champagne vinegar, sherry vinegar and often homemade red wine vinegar. Over time I have learned to select each based on the dish’s requirements rather than habit. Understanding these differences is one of those small shifts that moves cooking from a mechanical to a thoughtful. process.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT VINEGAR

Red wine vinegar

Red wine vinegar is my preferred choice. Its consistent sharpness makes it a reliable ingredient for vinaigrettes, cooked vegetables, legume salads and the sweet-and-sour notes of agrodolce.

Its bold flavour is precisely its strength, allowing it to stand alongside robust ingredients without overpowering them.

White Wine Vinegar

White wine vinegar is lighter and less tannic than red wine vinegar, offering acidity without weight or colour. The acidity is expressed subtly.

I use it when working with tender leaves, fresh herbs, cucumber or zucchini and occasionally for deglazing fish or seafood when I prefer not to use wine. It is also suitable for some ceviche-style preparations, particularly for stronger-tasting fish, making it more suitable for lemon.

It also blends well into emulsified sauces such as mayonnaise or aioli, where lemon might otherwise dominate.

Sherry Vinegar

Sherry vinegar adds complexity rather than sharpness. A few drops are often sufficient.

I frequently drizzle it over simply roasted vegetables such as mushrooms, pumpkin, eggplant and beetroot, allowing their natural sweetness to complement its savoury depth. It is equally suitable for pan sauces for more strongly flavoured poultry such as duck or quail.

Sherry vinegar is the one I use when I want warmth rather than brightness.

Champagne Vinegar 

Champagne vinegar possesses a restrained acidity. It is a subtle taste that supports rather than dominates.

I use it for soft tasting ingredients like lettuces, dishes with delicate herbs such as tarragon or chervil and salads that include fruit, like oranges, peaches and pears, where excessive sharpness would disrupt the balance. Champagne vinegar preserves elegance rather than overwhelming it.

Understanding Balsamic Vinegar

 I am very careful with Balsamic vinegar and use it very sparingly because most varieties that are available are overly sweet and synthetic. Having tasted different batches of Balsamic Vinegar in Modena some years ago I  know what I should be tasting!

Proper Balsamic Vinegar is aged. As with much of Italian cooking, its depth is shaped more by time than by intervention. No additives.

The most revered style is traditional balsamic, produced in Modena or Reggio Emilia from slowly cooked grape must and aged in a succession of wooden barrels for at least twelve years, often far longer. As the seasons pass and the liquid gently concentrates, it becomes darker, denser, and quietly complex. Only a few drops are needed — on Parmigiano Reggiano, ripe strawberries, or a finished risotto — where it deepens rather than dominates. And it is very expensive so one is frugal.

Most bottles encountered today are Aceto Balsamico di Modena IGP, is made from a blend of wine vinegar and grape must and matured for a shorter time. When well made, it is excellent to use in everyday cooking — vinaigrettes, used in agrodolce, or stirred through pan juices.

At the lower end, the type that is sold in supermarkets and labelled as Balsamic … and made in Italy…maturity is sometimes suggested rather than earned. Caramel for colour, thickeners for viscosity, and added sweetness offers quick roundness. Do the ingredients  listed mention grape must? Not likely. And how many additives are listed, and is the information correct?

For this reason, many Italian cooks keep two bottles — one for daily cooking, the other patiently aged, reserved for the final moment when a dish calls for depth and quiet resonance. And they are willing to pay for it .

Homemade Red Wine Vinegar 

Making homemade vinegar is a lesson in patience.

Its production is always slightly unpredictable, influenced by time, temperature and the vitality of its mother. When I am successful, in making it, the vinegar is softer and more layered than most commercial versions.

I treat it with the same respect as a high-quality extra virgin olive oil, often saving it for special salads or using it as a finishing touch, particularly with bitter leaves such as radicchio, chicory and endive.

When I have excess red wine left over, I begin another batch. Fermentation has its own schedule, and some jars take longer than anticipated. The waiting period becomes an integral part of the process.

For those who prefer not to make their own vinegar, a reputable delicatessen will often stock beautifully aged vinegars that are well worth purchasing.

RECIPE: A Traditional Method for Homemade Red Wine Vinegar

Rustic, reliable, and close to how vinegar is still produced in many homes across Italy and France.

Ingredients

  • 750 ml–1 litre red wine (avoid heavily sulphated wines)
  • 250–500 ml unpasteurised vinegar containing a live mother
  • 1 small piece of rustic bread

Equipment

  • Wide-mouth glass jar or crock
  • Breathable cloth or cheesecloth
  • Rubber band or string
  • Wooden spoon

Method

  1. Prepare the wine: Aim for an alcohol level of roughly 6–10%.
  1. Add the starter culture: Pour the wine into the container, add the live vinegar, and drop in the bread — traditionally used to provide nutrients and encourage microbial activity.
  1. Aerate and cover: Stir gently. Cover with cloth — oxygen is essential. Never seal airtight. When I have  used a crockpot I have also used a smaller lid to keep the mother down and then covered it with gauze. I have never had problems with vinegar flies, but maybe I am just lucky!

  1. Ferment: Store somewhere warm (18–27°C), dark, and undisturbed. Within 1–3 weeks, a gelatinous film — the mother — should form, and the aroma will shift from wine to tangy vinegar.
  1. Taste and monitor: Begin tasting after four weeks. Most batches take 4–8 weeks, sometimes longer.
  1. Finish: Remove the bread and bottle, or age further for deeper flavour. Always reserve some mother to start the next batch.

Practical Tips

  • Avoid metal lids touching the liquid.
  • Do not disturb the mother once formed.
  • Top up gradually with wine to create a continuous culture.
  • Discard if fuzzy mould appears; a smooth, jelly-like mother is normal.

Bitterness, Balance, and the Italian Table

Italian cuisine embraces bitterness — radicchio, chicory, scarola, and Belgian endive (witlof) are favourites in my kitchen.

Whether served raw or braised, vinegar is the quiet mediator that softens bitterness and creates equilibrium.

The following recipes reflect northern Italian traditions, where radicchio is celebrated.

A head of Firm Radicchio.

Here are a couple of recipes for radicchio.

Radicchio Agrodolce (Sweet–Sour Radicchio)

A classic example of bitterness balanced with acid and sweetness, widely associated with the Veneto region.

Firm Radicchio cut into wedges.

Ingredients

  • 2 heads radicchio, quartered
  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 small red or white sliced onion or spring onion
  • 2 tbsp red wine vinegar
  • 1 tsp sugar or honey (I often use 1 tbsp balsamic and 1 tbsp red wine vinegar instead)
  • Salt and black pepper

Optional: toasted or candied walnuts, pine nuts, raisins, or currants.

Method

  1. Heat olive oil in a wide pan.
  2. Sauté onion until soft and lightly sweet. If using spring onion sauté less (I overcooked mine)
  3. Add radicchio cut-side down and cook until lightly charred.
  4. Add vinegar and sweetener; toss gently.
  5. Cook for 2–3 minutes until slightly wilted but still structured.
  6. Season and serve warm.
Alternative Charred Version of Radicchio Agrodolce 

For a deeper flavour:

  1. Sear the wedges vigorously without moving them.
  2. Turn once.

  1. Deglaze with vinegar or a vinegar-balsamic mixture.
  2. Add a touch of honey and butter, basting the radicchio  on both sides in the pan until glossy or removing it before making the glaze.
Glaze for Cooked Radicchio.

Plating Tip: Serve wedges whole, slightly overlapped, with glaze spooned toward the core for visual structure.

Candied Walnuts (Perfect for Salads with bitter leaves)

Crisp, lightly glossy, and balanced — never overly sweet.

Ingredients

  • 1 cup walnut halves
  • 1 tbsp sugar
  • 1 tbsp butter or olive oil
  • Pinch of salt
  • About a small teaspoon of wine vinegar

Method

  1. Toast walnuts lightly in a dry pan until fragrant.
  2. Add fat, sugar, and salt. Once the begin to melt add the vinegar.
  3. Stir continuously until caramelised.
  4. Spread on baking paper and cool completely.
Radicchio Salad with Balsamic and Parmigiano

Another northern Italian classic — simple, structured, and refined.

Ingredients

  • Radicchio leaves, torn
  • Parmigiano Reggiano shavings
  • Toasted walnuts (optional)
  • Extra virgin olive oil
  • Good-quality red wine vinegar, balsamic, or both
  • Salt and black pepper

Method

  1. Toss radicchio with olive oil, salt, and pepper.
  2. Add vinegar gradually, tasting until the balance feels right — acidity should support, not dominate.

Plating Suggestions

  • Use a large plate and leave some negative space.
  • Build height rather than spreading the salad flat.
  • Add contrasting textures such as shaved fennel, citrus segments, firm pears sliced, nuts and fried capers. I also use firm peaches or vanilla persimmons, although these are not traditional ingredients. However, cuisine evolves and even traditional cuisine changes.
  • Finish with a final gloss of olive oil and intentionally placed shaved Parmigiano.

These small decisions/ finishing touches elevate salads from rustic home cooking to quietly sophisticated.

Other Radicchio recipes:

LASAGNA /LASAGNE. RECIPE FOR LASAGNA AL RADICCHIO

RISOTTO made with Radicchio

RISOTTO AL RADICCHIO ROSSO

COOKED RADICCHIO

Pan fried radicchio with pickled pears, walnuts, beetroot and gorgonzola

BIGOLI NOBILI (Bigoli pasta with red radicchio, borlotti and pork sausages)

Agro Dolce:

TONNO AL AGRO DOLCE; Sweet and sour tuna, Sicilian; ALBACORE TUNA

PEPERONATA(SICILIAN SWEET AND SOUR PEPPERS)

Sweet and Sour Peppers.

THE MANY VERSIONS OF CAPONATE and grilled food

Eggplant caponata.
Sweet and Sour Pumpkin.

Sicilian Pumpkin with vinegar, mint, sugar and cinnamon

ACETO DI VINO FATTO IN CASA (Home Made Wine Vinegar)

ITALIAN NEW YEAR’S LENTILS (Lenticchie di Capodanno)

In Italy, lentils (lenticchie) are particularly eaten on New Year’s Eve (Capodanno) as they are one of the most enduring symbols of good luck, prosperity and abundance. As the old year concludes and the new one begins, bowls of lentils are placed on tables across the country, consumed with the hopeful belief that they will bring financial security and good fortune in the months ahead.

If you believe in tradition, eat them before midnight and make a wish for the year ahead.

Brown lentils (also known as green lentils) are followed by Puy (also known as French lentils) and a smaller variety of brown lentils.
The Symbolism of Lentils

The symbolism is ancient. Lentils’ small, round, coin-like shape has long been associated with money and wealth. This idea dates back to Roman times, when lentils were exchanged at the turn of the year in the hope they would transform into coins. Over centuries, this belief became embedded in Italian food culture, turning lentils into an essential New Year ritual rather than an everyday superstition. Some traditions even claim that the more lentils you eat, the greater your prosperity will be.

Traditional Pairings

Lentils are commonly paired with rich pork dishes such as cotechino or zampone but are equally satisfying when prepared on their own or with vegetables, herbs and olive oil. They can be served warm and garnished as a salad. These gently braised lentils are rich, comforting and symbolic, a dish to welcome prosperity in the coming year without being heavy. I have included a traditional and cultural recipe for lentils with cotechino on my blog.

 I also enjoy braising good quality pork sausages with lentils. I am particularly fond of both of these dishes but it is also suitable for a warm Australian evening or as a salad for a barbecue. It can be eaten warm at room temperature or even the following day. In fact, like most lentil dishes, it improves with time.

This dish is more commonly associated with the north of Italy, but as we know, food habits change. Recipes travel. Traditions adapt. Just as panettone has become a Christmas fixture in Australia, lentils have found their way onto many New Year tables well beyond Italy. Lentils are traditionally eaten at the turn of the year because their coin-like shape symbolises wealth and abundance. This simple preparation allows their meaning — and flavour — to shine, making it a perfect dish to usher in the New Year with intention, restraint, and hope.

Lentils as an accompaniment to stuffed artichokes.
Customising and Enjoying Your Lenticchie di Capodanno

I have always prepared lentils in this manner, so I have never considered writing a recipe. For those who prefer Indian or Middle Eastern flavours, it is simple to omit the bay, rosemary and thyme and add Indian or Middle Eastern spices.

The cooking method will look familiar. Onion, carrot, and celery make their inevitable appearance — the Italian usual suspects. This soffritto forms the base of countless soups, braises, and stews, and it works just as well here.

You can easily adjust quantities. Add more lentils if you like leftovers (and you should). They reheat beautifully, and with a little extra liquid can even be turned into soup the next day — particularly welcome if you are living somewhere cooler than I am.

Serve warm or at room temperature or as a salad with a few additional simple ingredients.

And do appreciate the leftovers. The flavours deepen over the next few days. Very good eating indeed.

Italian New Year’s Lentils with Olive Oil, Garlic & Herbs

(Lenticchie di Capodanno all’Olio d’Oliva)

INGREDIENTS

4–6 as a side or light main

  • 250 g dried lentils (Green lentils or Puy lentils)
  • 1 small onion, finely chopped
  • 1 carrot, finely diced
  • 1 celery stalk, finely diced
  • 2 cloves garlic, lightly crushed
  • 2–3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to finish
  • 1 bay leaf
  • A small sprig of rosemary or thyme
  • Vegetable stock or water (as needed)
  • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

METHOD

Rinse the lentils thoroughly. If using high-quality small lentils, soaking is not necessary.

In a wide saucepan, warm the olive oil over gentle heat. Add the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic. Cook slowly until soft and fragrant, without browning.

Stir in the lentils, bay leaf, and herbs. Coat well in the aromatic base.

Add enough stock or water to cover the lentils by about 3 cm. Bring to a gentle simmer.

Cook uncovered for 25–35 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the lentils are tender but still hold their shape. Add more liquid if needed.

Season with salt and pepper towards the end of cooking. Remove the bay leaf and herb sprigs.

Serving Suggestions and Tips

Serve warm in a shallow bowl, make it glistening with a generous drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

For a salad add a little lemon zest, lemon juice or wine vinegar and for brightness finely chopped parsley.

Pair with sautéed greens, roasted vegetables, or crusty bread.

Roasted vegetables such as pumpkin, carrots and potatoes can be added to lentils for a hot or cold dish.

Store leftovers in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Flavours improve overnight.

Add left over vegetables to lentil salads.

COTECHINO AND LENTILS; NEW YEAR’s EVE and CHRISTMAS

Lentils with Cotechino

ITALIAN BITTER LEAF SALAD

I use the tender hearts of Italian bitter greens — radicchio, chicory (cicoria), and curly endive (indivia riccia) to make a leaf salad that’s cleansing, refreshing, and slightly peppery.

While these vegetables are at their peak in winter, I am using them well into spring.

Bitter greens are a broad, diverse family of dark, leafy vegetables and cruciferous plants known for their assertive flavour. As well as the vegetables mentioned above, think cime di rapa, rocket (arugula), kale, cavolo nero, mustard greens, and watercress. Each has its own flavour and character.

In Italy, bitterness is appreciated and celebrated. Italians have a profound appreciation for sharp, bracing flavours – from consuming artichokes  and the extensive range of bitter-leaf-based contorni (side dishes) and primi (pasta, risotto and soups) that showcase the depth of this taste in their cuisine. There is the enjoyment of downing espresso coffee and savouring the complex herbal flavours of amari (the iconic range of bitter-sweet aperitivi and digestivi).

“L’amaro è un gusto da apprezzare.” (Bitterness is a taste to be appreciated.)

Bitter greens do more than add flavour and have long been prized for their medicinal qualities. They stimulate the digestive system, activating enzymes and encouraging bile production – the age-old remedy for sluggish digestion. But beyond their health benefits, bitterness plays an important culinary role: it cuts through richness, brings balance to a dish, and pairs beautifully with bold or fatty ingredients.

When preparing these greens, I usually set aside the tougher outer leaves for cooking and reserve only the pale, tender, subtly bitter leaves from the inner hearts for raw salads.

The tougher outer leaves go well cooked: sautéed with olive oil and garlic, stirred into brothy soups, or wilted gently with legumes, they lend a slightly bitter edge that deepens the flavour of everything around them. Chicory or curly endive, either on their own or mixed, are excellent paired with beans  – cannellini, borlotti, or even lentils. I pan-fry the greens in olive oil, flavour them with garlic and often add a couple of chili peppers or a few anchovy fillets for depth of flavour. The result is a rustic, homely and satisfying dish that makes a good entrée, contorno (side) or a simple main. It is also good when folded into a bowl of soup.

The inner, pale, tender leaves have visually attractive vibrant leaves. They offer crunch without overpowering intensity.

Use inner leaves from:

1 small head of radicchio, 1 small bunch of cicoria and 1 small head of curly endive (indivia riccia).

I have at times replaced one of the vegetables with witlof , rocket or watercress. I like frilly endive, dandelion leaves also, and puntarelle… when I can get them.

Preparing Bitter Greens for Salad

  • Trim & Clean
    Remove any tough or damaged outer leaves—save these for cooking. Trim the stem end just enough to loosen the head without it falling apart.
  • Separate Tender Leaves
    Gently pull apart the pale, inner leaves—these are the most delicate and best for salad.
  • Soak & Rinse
    Soak the leaves in cold water for 5–10 minutes to remove grit and revive their crispness. Rinse well.
  • Dry Thoroughly
    Use a salad spinner or clean towel to dry leaves hold dressing better and keep the salad vibrant.
  • Optional: store in the fridge
    For extra crunch leave the washed leaves in the fridge for at least 30 minutes.

I play around with salads. Here are some Optional Additions that works well with these bitter greens:

  • Fresh Fruit: Orange segments, firm persimmon (vanilla type), pear, or apple slices. These add sweetness to balance the bitterness.
  • Nuts: Toasted walnuts or pine nuts bring crunch and a rich, nutty depth.
  • Cheese: Shavings of Parmesan or crumbled Gorgonzola add creaminess and umami.
  • Protein: A few good quality anchovy fillets, soft-boiled  or hard boiled eggs, grilled chicken, or white beans make it more substantial.
  • Extra Colour and Flavour: Thinly sliced fennel, roasted beetroot, or edible flowers like nasturtiums elevate both presentation and taste.

I use a simple dressing – extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice or /and good quality wine or sherry vinegar, sea salt, cracked pepper.

Other recipes and information:

BITTER GREENS and AMARI (Aperitivi and Digestivi)

CICORIA: Chicory; Bitter Green

CICORIA and Puntarelle (Chicory)

 

SBS ITALIAN RADIO LIVE Winter vegetables, cauliflowers

I was recently invited to join the morning program on SBS Italian Radio Live, where I had the pleasure of discussing winter vegetables with hosts Massimiliano Gugole, who is based in Sydney and Andrea Pagani is based in Melbourne.

Living close to Queen Victoria Market, I’m fortunate to have a daily view of the bustling sheds and open-air car park from my balcony. The market is where I shop and where I’ve sourced fresh produce for as long as I have lived in Melbourne. Before that I lived in Adelaide and I also lived close to the Adelaide Central Market.

Quality ingredients, especially seasonal ones, are central to my cooking.

During the live broadcast, I noted that alongside typical winter produce, stalls are still offering late-season peppers, eggplants, and zucchini, mostly grown in warmer areas like Mildura. But what I was most excited about was the fennel – crisp, aromatic, and at its peak right now. Also in abundance are mushrooms, radicchio, witlof, chicory, and of course, the winter brassicas.

I was particularly pleased to find and cook the season’s first globe artichokes.

Artichokes

Chef Piera Pagnoni confirmed the richness of the winter harvest – cabbages, cauliflowers, fennel, broccoli – though she pointed out that these aren’t always children’s favourites. Her advice? “There’s always a secret weapon: cover it with béchamel, add a little Parmesan, put it in the oven… and everyone loves it.” Spoken like a true cook from Bologna, where pasta and comfort go hand in hand.

Later in the program, Chef Gianmarco Pardini from Sydney joined the conversation and reminded us that this is also a great season for fish: “The water is colder, so the fish eats more and becomes tastier.”

During the  program, I  remembered and shared a recipe that holds special meaning for me – a cauliflower dish my Sicilian grandmother from Catania used to prepare. It’s simple, seasonal, and a wonderful way to celebrate the best of winter produce.

CAULIFLOWER smothered in strong Sicilian flavour (Cavolfiore Affogato / Vruòcculi Affucati)

One of the most flavourful and dramatic ways to cook cauliflower comes from my grandmother Maria, who was born in Catania. This dish is called Cavolfiore Affogato in Italian, and Vruòcculi Affucati in Sicilian, meaning literally “smothered/ suffocated cauliflower”. It refers to the way the cauliflower is slowly simmered in red wine and olive oil, gently compressed so that it softens into a layered like tortino (pie/cake/mould).

The wine not only deepens the flavour but also gives the cauliflower a lovely rose-coloured tinge that is especially noticeable if you use the classic white variety of cauliflower. The yellow cauliflower has an even more striking result.

Cauliflowers are now available in many colours but while  purple or green versions are very attractive raw, they tend to lose their colour when cooked.

To cook

The method is quite unique. The small pieces of cauliflower are layered in a pot with anchovies, onion, pecorino, olive oil, and sometimes black olives. It should be 3-4 layers. It is then pressed under a weight as it cooks slowly on the stovetop.

To compress it, cover the layers with a piece of baking paper cut to shape, place a heat-safe plate on top, and add a weight.  When you select the plate is important to that the plate is smaller than the size of the saucepan so as to leave a space around the rim to allow evaporation of the contents.

As a weight, I usually use my stone mortar, but a smaller saucepan partially filled with water works just as well. The aim is to gently press the layers down while the wine and oil simmer slowly.

As it cooks, the liquid gradually evaporates. What remains is a flavoured, cohesive “cake”(like a tortino) that can be sliced.

I use a pan with a heavy base to distribute the heat gently and I often use a piece of baking paper on the base to avoid sticking or use a non-stick saucepan. If needed, a spoonful of water can be added during cooking, but with low heat and a well-made pot, it’s rarely necessary.

Vruòcculi Affucati is perfect as a side dish, especially next to something bold in flavour.  It’s traditionally served at room temperature, and lef tovers are even better the next day.

Ingredients

  • 1kg cauliflower or broccoli (white or yellow preferred)
  • 1 large onion, thinly sliced
  • 50–100g pecorino, thinly sliced
  • 4–5 anchovy fillets (or more if you like)
  • 1 glass of red wine
  • ¾ cup extra virgin olive oil
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • Salt, if needed
  • 10 black olives, pitted (optional)

Method

Lightly oil the base of a deep saucepan. Line it with baking paper if you like.

Add a layer of cauliflower, then top with onion, anchovies, pecorino, pepper, and olives (if using). Repeat for two more layers, drizzling with olive oil as you go. Make sure the top layer is just cauliflower.

Press the layers gently with your hands. Pour the red wine over the top and finish with a final drizzle of oil.

Cover with baking paper or foil cut to size, then weigh it down with a plate and something heavy.

Cook on the lowest heat for 30–40 minutes. You’ll hear it begin to sizzle when the liquid has evaporated.

Allow it to rest before turning.

And of course I had written this recipe on my blog years ago and it has different photos to this post:

Inverno, cosa comprano e cosa mangiano italiani e italiane d’Australia?

 LINK- Spoken in Italian: SBS live morning radio 

CAVOLOFIORE AFFOGATO (Cauliflower braised in red wine, cheese and anchovies)

Other cauliflower recipes:

PASTA RIMESTATA COI CAVOFIORI; Pasta with cauliflower, sultanas, pine nuts and anchovies

PASTA con cavolofiore, salsicce di maiale e ceci (pasta with cauliflower, pork sausages and chickpeas)

 

 

BRAISED FENNEL – fragrant

I make braised fennel very often, so often, in fact, that I’ve never bothered to write a post about one of the ways to enjoy this vegetable in a fragrant broth.

Of course raw fennel is marvellous too, but fennel can be cooked in various ways and here is the recipe.

Preparing fennel is a straightforward process, and I employ the Italian culinary technique known as ‘cucina all’occhio’. This technique entails making intuitive  decisions based on culinary expertise and knowledge.

Although there is no specific recipe, here are some general guidelines that I find helpful:

I always include herbs like parsley, fresh bay leaves, and minced garlic. If I have rosemary, thyme, or tarragon, I might add one of these too. Sometimes I add a little butter. This enhances the sauce and makes it velvety.

 

 

sectioned fennel with fronds and herbs

I always braise with stock – chicken or vegetable, that I stock in the freezer and I always add a splash of wine. That’s a northern Italian touch, not Sicilian.

If there’s some Cinzano Extra Dry vermouth that I have around, I’ll use that instead of the wine, especially if I have used tarragon. I’ve also used Pernod, which of course enhances the aniseed flavour. The ratio is simple: about 1 part alcohol to 8 parts stock.

PROCESS

Use a saucepan with a lid that fits the fennel snugly and allows enough room for liquid.

Clean and prepare the fennel: Cut off the stalks and discard them. Save the younger fronds—the wispy pale green ones.

I like to keep the leaves of the bulb intact as they cook, so I only trim part of the tough core. Then I cut the bulb into quarters.

Heat a little extra virgin olive oil in the pan. Lightly pan-fry the fennel quarters until lightly golden on both sides.

Lower the heat, add the stock and wine (or vermouth/ Pernod), the herbs, and a bit of minced garlic. The liquid should come about halfway up the fennel.

Cover and braise gently until the fennel is tender but still holding its shape.

If there’s too much liquid at the end, just remove the lid  towards the end of the cooking process and let it reduce a little.

Of course, fennel is also great when it is  simply baked… I just include it on the baking tray with potatoes (and other vegetables), but here are a couple of other cooked fennel recipes:

STUFFED BAKED FENNEL WITH PANGRATTATO; FINOCCHI RIPIENI

TORTINO DI FINOCCHI (A flan of cooked fennel)

FENNEL CAPONATA (Sicilian sweet and sour method for vegetables)

 

CICORIA: Chicory – Bitter Green

Cicoria (chicory) is of one of my favourite winter greens. This bitter, leafy vegetable is found in markets and greengrocers all over Italy, but is not as commonly here in Australia.

I especially love the open-air markets, where the bunches seem to have a life of their own and carts of wild-foraged cicoria are plentiful.

Cicoria is cultivated and sold in bunches, it is a green vegetable, but sometimes the stalks are tinted red.  The cicoria family includes catalogna and puntarelle (also called Cicoria cimata). These are usually  used in salads.

To the uninitiated, cicoria may seem like just another bitter leafy green. But in Italy, it holds a much more significant role.

What Is Cicoria?

Cicoria is a catch-all term Italians use for a variety of bitter greens: wild dandelion, catalogna, and puntarelle (which look like cicoria that has started to sprout). In English, it’s loosely translated as chicory, though it includes more varieties than you’d typically find at a greengrocer’s, especially in Australia.

In many parts of the world, chicory is seen more as a medicinal herb or a coffee substitute (in fact, chicory essence was widely consumed as “coffee” when I first arrived in Australia). But in Italy, it’s cherished—an essential vegetable in cucina povera, the humble, healthful peasant cooking that defines much of the country’s food culture.

Italians will tell you that bitter greens are “good for the liver”—and they’re right. Cicoria’s natural bitterness stimulates bile production, supports digestion, and nourishes the gut. Like artichokes, another bitter Italian favourite, it’s as healing as it is flavourful.

How I Cook Cicoria

There are endless ways to prepare cicoria, and most Italian recipes begin with boiling or blanching to soften it. That said, I don’t always do this—I often sauté the greens first, then add a bit of liquid, cover with a lid, and let them cook gently.

Cicoria Ripassata

The most traditional—and simplest—method is to boil or blanch the greens, then sauté with aromatics. This is known as cicoria ripassata: after boiling, the greens are “repassed” in olive oil with garlic and chili. Though often credited as a Roman dish, it’s made this way all over Italy. (The chili is optional.)

Boiled Cicoria with Lemon and Olive Oil

Surprisingly refreshing: just boiled cicoria with a drizzle of good olive oil and a squeeze of lemon. Sometimes served with a bit of its poaching liquid, this method is known as rinfrescante—cleansing and hydrating for the digestive system.

Cicoria with Legumes

Bitter greens pair beautifully with creamy beans. Mix cicoria with lentils, borlotti, or cannellini for a hearty side dish—or turn it into pasta e fagioli. I also like spooning cicoria and borlotti over polenta or cooking it with fresh Italian pork sausages and pasta.

Frittate

Leftover sautéed cicoria makes a fantastic frittata. I use all sorts of vegetables as a contorno (side dish) the day before, then reuse the leftovers in a frittata or add them to soups.

Salads

The tender inner leaves of the long leaf cicoria can also be eaten raw. I like mixing the young central leaves into salads with lettuce, rocket, radicchio, fennel, and endive.

Varieties like puntarelle and catalogna are also very popular salad ingredients. Romans traditionally dress puntarelle with anchovy vinaigrette.

Cicoria Ripassata

I often serve this as a contorno (side dish).

Ingredients:

1 large bunch of cicoria (chicory or dandelion greens)

2–3 cloves garlic, smashed

1 dried or fresh chili (or chili flakes)

Extra virgin olive oil

Salt, to taste

Instructions:

Clean the cicoria thoroughly, removing any tough stems and soaking well to remove grit.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Blanch the cicoria for 5–10 minutes, until tender. Drain well and gently squeeze out excess water.

In a wide skillet, heat a generous glug of olive oil. Add garlic and chili, and let them infuse the oil for a minute or two.

Add the cicoria, season with salt, and sauté for another 5 minutes, tossing to coat in the flavours.

Purea di Fave e Cicoria

(Broad Bean Purée with Chicory)

A Southern Italian winter favourite, this dish is both comforting and nutrient-rich. I sometimes swap fava beans for butter beans for convenience—they’re creamy, mild, and velvety. I often serve the purée with slivers of fresh or toasted bread, much like hummus. Try it as an antipasto with a Southern Italian wine such as Malvasia Bianca, Verdeca, or Fiano.

Ingredients:

1 cup dried split broad beans (or whole beans, peeled after soaking)

1 bunch of cicoria

2 cloves garlic

Extra virgin olive oil

Salt, to taste

Instructions:

Soak the broad beans  overnight. Drain and peel if needed.

In a pot, cover the beans with fresh water and simmer over low heat until very soft (about 1 hour). Add water as needed. Once cooked, mash or purée with olive oil and salt until smooth and creamy.

Meanwhile, clean and boil the cicoria until tender. Drain and sauté with garlic and olive oil.

To serve, spoon the broad beann purée onto a plate, top with the cicoria, and finish with a generous drizzle of olive oil.

The fragrance is incredible.

Other Cicoria recipes:

CICORETTA CON SALSICCIA (Chicory with fresh pork sausage)

CICORIA and Puntarelle (Chicory)

A RAVE ABOUT BORLOTTI BEANS

SEASONAL WINTER VEGETABLES in Melbourne, Australia

BITTER GREENS and AMARI (Aperitivi and Digestivi)

Below, wild greens seller in Sicily.

COOKING DUCK: Not Just for Special Occasions

Duck is often seen as a luxury dish reserved for special occasions, but it doesn’t have to be – whether minced, whole or breasts.

On my blog, I have some recipes that show how versatile and accessible cooking duck can be.

Sicilian Duck with Olives and Anchovies: Anatra a Papparedda cu Ulivi

In Sicilian cuisine, ducks are somewhat rare, but the flavours of Anatra a Papparedda cu Ulivi, are bold and unexpected combinations. The word ulivi means olives in Sicilian, and in this dish, green olives and anchovies in the sauce make this dish truly distinctive. The whole duck is roasted first.

Sicilian Duck with green olives and anchovies; Anatra a Papparedda cu ulivi

Duck Ragù

For a  very special pasta dish a Duck Ragù (Ragout) is a recipe that is made with minced duck, the method and ingredients are like the recipe for a traditional bolognese. A Duck and Mushroom Ragù  gives the opportunity to enjoy portions of the duck (with bones if you wish) and/or use the ragù to dress the pasta.

Egg pasta is usually the choice of pasta for game meats, but any shape of pasta will be elevated to a supreme level with duck.

RIGATONI CON RAGU: ANATRA (Duck Ragout)

DUCK AND MUSHROOM RAGÙ

Duck Breast: Simple 

Duck breasts are one of the most affordable and versatile cuts of duck. Easy to prepare, they cook quickly and, with just a few ingredients, can be transformed into an impressive dish.

The beauty of duck breast lies in its simplicity – crispy skin and tender meat, with minimal effort.

DUCK BREAST, ALCOHOL and EMBELLISHMENTS

Leftovers: Transforming Duck into New Creations

I don’t let leftovers go to waste! they either get eaten as they are or get used in other recipies to enrich the taste of the new. In the post below, I share how to take leftover pan-fried duck breasts and turn them into a completely new dish. With other added ingredients to the cooked duck breast and a drizzle of parsley oil (or even labneh), you can create a refreshing duck salad that’s as delicious as it is resourceful.

LEFTOVERS: from Duck and Dried Sour Cherries to New Dishes

Camping, easy cooking

Duck breasts cooked very quickly and very enjoyable…. even when camping.

GLAM COOKING ON THE ROAD; Camping

Cooking Potatoes with duck fat

Below, duck breasts with cumquats and roast potatoes.

Patate in teccia, hail from Trieste. The potatoes are precooked and then smashed and recooked in olive oil, but of course cooking them in duck fat makes them very special.

PATATE as a contorno (Two recipes for ‘squashed’ potatoes, Patate in tecia)

Other links:

DELVING INTO EGG PASTA