SBS Italian Radio Recipes: Italian Food Interviews and Podcasts with Marisa Raniolo Wilkins
SBS Italian Radio has invited me on many occasions to share some of my favourite Italian recipes, regional food traditions and culinary stories with broadcaster Massimiliano Gugole who it the Audio and Language Content Producer at Special Broadcasting Service (SBS) Australia,
This page brings together those interviews so they are easy to find in one place.
If you speak Italian, you can listen to these conversations on the SBS Audio App or if you click on the links provided below. Each episode generally runs for 10–14 minutes and explores not only recipes but also some of the history, traditions and regional food culture behind them.
One exception is Zuzzu: An Ancient Sicilian Pork Terrine That Uses Everything but the Oink, runs for approximately 30 minutes. This podcast forms part of The Ugly Ducklings of Italian Cuisine, a popular series on SBS with a number of interesting and noteworthy participants. Some of the presenters are not Italian speakers and the podcasts are in English.
These are the podcasts. Use the link to listen on SBS Italian Radio
Zuzzu: An Ancient Sicilian Pork Terrine That Uses Everything but the Oink
(already published in English).
This podcast was the most popular in the series.
13 February 2024
This episode forms part of the SBS Italian Radio series The Ugly Ducklings of Italian Cuisine, celebrating traditional regional dishes that are less well known outside Italy.
SBS, the Ugly Ducklings of Italian Cuisine, a series of podcasts
Jota/ Iota a hearty thick soup from Trieste made with smoked pork, borlotti beans and sauerkraut
Read the Recipes in English
Many of these recipes have also been published in English here on All Things Sicilian and More, often with additional historical background, photographs and cooking notes.
Simply use the blog’s search function and search for SBS Italian Radio or search by recipe name or ingredient, for example:
Puntarelle
Stuffed Artichokes
Sicilian Cassata
The Ugly Ducklings of Italian Cuisine (Zuzzu)
Jota
You’ll find several detailed recipes about the same ingredient, together with the stories, traditions and regional food culture that inspired each dish.
It is worth seeing the full range of photos of the process of making Zuzzu –Sicilian Pork Terrine:
The subtle power of vinegar and how Italians balance flavour is something I appreciate in my own kitchen. Beyond acidity and preservation, vinegar brings balance, gives structure to a dish, and harmony in everyday cooking.Italian cuisine has always been attentive to relationships on the palate: fat is balanced with acidity, sweetness is moderated by bitterness and warm dishes are often refreshed with a sharp element. I often deglaze pans with vinegar. A small splash in a warm pan releases an aroma and sharpness that immediately awakens the senses. And it smells fantastic!
Lemon brightens flavours and highlights bitterness, but vinegar behaves differently. It softens and steadies strong tastes, preventing them from becoming overpowering. Consequently, selecting the appropriate vinegar is a deliberate decision that is part of the cooking process.
In my pantry you will find several types of vinegar — commercial red wine vinegar, white wine vinegar, champagne vinegar, sherry vinegar and often homemade red wine vinegar. Over time I have learned to select each based on the dish’s requirements rather than habit. Understanding these differences is one of those small shifts that moves cooking from a mechanical to a thoughtful. process.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT VINEGAR
Red wine vinegar
Red wine vinegar is my preferred choice. Its consistent sharpness makes it a reliable ingredient for vinaigrettes, cooked vegetables, legume salads and the sweet-and-sour notes of agrodolce.
Its bold flavour is precisely its strength, allowing it to stand alongside robust ingredients without overpowering them.
White Wine Vinegar
White wine vinegar is lighter and less tannic than red wine vinegar, offering acidity without weight or colour. The acidity is expressed subtly.
I use it when working with tender leaves, fresh herbs, cucumber or zucchini and occasionally for deglazing fish or seafood when I prefer not to use wine. It is also suitable for some ceviche-style preparations, particularly for stronger-tasting fish, making it more suitable for lemon.
It also blends well into emulsified sauces such as mayonnaise or aioli, where lemon might otherwise dominate.
Sherry Vinegar
Sherry vinegar adds complexity rather than sharpness. A few drops are often sufficient.
I frequently drizzle it over simply roasted vegetables such as mushrooms, pumpkin, eggplant and beetroot, allowing their natural sweetness to complement its savoury depth. It is equally suitable for pan sauces for more strongly flavoured poultry such as duck or quail.
Sherry vinegar is the one I use when I want warmth rather than brightness.
Champagne Vinegar
Champagne vinegar possesses a restrained acidity. It is a subtle taste that supports rather than dominates.
I use it for soft tasting ingredients like lettuces, dishes with delicate herbs such as tarragon or chervil and salads that include fruit, like oranges, peaches and pears, where excessive sharpness would disrupt the balance. Champagne vinegar preserves elegance rather than overwhelming it.
Understanding Balsamic Vinegar
I am very careful with Balsamic vinegar and use it very sparingly because most varieties that are available are overly sweet and synthetic. Having tasted different batches of Balsamic Vinegar in Modena some years ago I know what I should be tasting!
Proper Balsamic Vinegar is aged. As with much of Italian cooking, its depth is shaped more by time than by intervention. No additives.
The most revered style is traditional balsamic, produced in Modena or Reggio Emilia from slowly cooked grape must and aged in a succession of wooden barrels for at least twelve years, often far longer. As the seasons pass and the liquid gently concentrates, it becomes darker, denser, and quietly complex. Only a few drops are needed — on Parmigiano Reggiano, ripe strawberries, or a finished risotto — where it deepens rather than dominates. And it is very expensive so one is frugal.
Most bottles encountered today are Aceto Balsamico di Modena IGP, is made from a blend of wine vinegar and grape must and matured for a shorter time. When well made, it is excellent to use in everyday cooking — vinaigrettes, used in agrodolce, or stirred through pan juices.
At the lower end, the type that is sold in supermarkets and labelled as Balsamic … and made in Italy…maturity is sometimes suggested rather than earned. Caramel for colour, thickeners for viscosity, and added sweetness offers quick roundness. Do the ingredients listed mention grape must? Not likely. And how many additives are listed, and is the information correct?
For this reason, many Italian cooks keep two bottles — one for daily cooking, the other patiently aged, reserved for the final moment when a dish calls for depth and quiet resonance. And they are willing to pay for it .
Homemade Red Wine Vinegar
Making homemade vinegar is a lesson in patience.
Its production is always slightly unpredictable, influenced by time, temperature and the vitality of its mother. When I am successful, in making it, the vinegar is softer and more layered than most commercial versions.
I treat it with the same respect as a high-quality extra virgin olive oil, often saving it for special salads or using it as a finishing touch, particularly with bitter leaves such as radicchio, chicory and endive.
When I have excess red wine left over, I begin another batch. Fermentation has its own schedule, and some jars take longer than anticipated. The waiting period becomes an integral part of the process.
For those who prefer not to make their own vinegar, a reputable delicatessen will often stock beautifully aged vinegars that are well worth purchasing.
RECIPE: A Traditional Method for Homemade Red Wine Vinegar
Rustic, reliable, and close to how vinegar is still produced in many homes across Italy and France.
Ingredients
750 ml–1 litre red wine (avoid heavily sulphated wines)
250–500 ml unpasteurised vinegar containing a live mother
1 small piece of rustic bread
Equipment
Wide-mouth glass jar or crock
Breathable cloth or cheesecloth
Rubber band or string
Wooden spoon
Method
Prepare the wine: Aim for an alcohol level of roughly 6–10%.
Add the starter culture: Pour the wine into the container, add the live vinegar, and drop in the bread — traditionally used to provide nutrients and encourage microbial activity.
Aerate and cover: Stir gently. Cover with cloth — oxygen is essential. Never seal airtight. When I have used a crockpot I have also used a smaller lid to keep the mother down and then covered it with gauze. I have never had problems with vinegar flies, but maybe I am just lucky!
Ferment: Store somewhere warm (18–27°C), dark, and undisturbed. Within 1–3 weeks, a gelatinous film — the mother — should form, and the aroma will shift from wine to tangy vinegar.
Taste and monitor: Begin tasting after four weeks. Most batches take 4–8 weeks, sometimes longer.
Finish: Remove the bread and bottle, or age further for deeper flavour. Always reserve some mother to start the next batch.
Practical Tips
Avoid metal lids touching the liquid.
Do not disturb the mother once formed.
Top up gradually with wine to create a continuous culture.
Discard if fuzzy mould appears; a smooth, jelly-like mother is normal.
Bitterness, Balance, and the Italian Table
Italian cuisine embraces bitterness — radicchio, chicory, scarola, and Belgian endive (witlof) are favourites in my kitchen.
Whether served raw or braised, vinegar is the quiet mediator that softens bitterness and creates equilibrium.
The following recipes reflect northern Italian traditions, where radicchio is celebrated.
A head of Firm Radicchio.
Here are a couple of recipes for radicchio.
Radicchio Agrodolce (Sweet–Sour Radicchio)
A classic example of bitterness balanced with acid and sweetness, widely associated with the Veneto region.
Firm Radicchio cut into wedges.
Ingredients
2 heads radicchio, quartered
2 tbsp olive oil
1 small red or white sliced onion or spring onion
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
1 tsp sugar or honey (I often use 1 tbsp balsamic and 1 tbsp red wine vinegar instead)
Salt and black pepper
Optional: toasted or candied walnuts, pine nuts, raisins, or currants.
Method
Heat olive oil in a wide pan.
Sauté onion until soft and lightly sweet. If using spring onion sauté less (I overcooked mine)
Add radicchio cut-side down and cook until lightly charred.
Add vinegar and sweetener; toss gently.
Cook for 2–3 minutes until slightly wilted but still structured.
Season and serve warm.
Alternative Charred Version of Radicchio Agrodolce
For a deeper flavour:
Sear the wedges vigorously without moving them.
Turn once.
Deglaze with vinegar or a vinegar-balsamic mixture.
Add a touch of honey and butter, basting the radicchio on both sides in the pan until glossy or removing it before making the glaze.
Glaze for Cooked Radicchio.
Plating Tip: Serve wedges whole, slightly overlapped, with glaze spooned toward the core for visual structure.
Candied Walnuts (Perfect for Salads with bitter leaves)
Crisp, lightly glossy, and balanced — never overly sweet.
Ingredients
1 cup walnut halves
1 tbsp sugar
1 tbsp butter or olive oil
Pinch of salt
About a small teaspoon of wine vinegar
Method
Toast walnuts lightly in a dry pan until fragrant.
Add fat, sugar, and salt. Once the begin to melt add the vinegar.
Stir continuously until caramelised.
Spread on baking paper and cool completely.
Radicchio Salad with Balsamic and Parmigiano
Another northern Italian classic — simple, structured, and refined.
Ingredients
Radicchio leaves, torn
Parmigiano Reggiano shavings
Toasted walnuts (optional)
Extra virgin olive oil
Good-quality red wine vinegar, balsamic, or both
Salt and black pepper
Method
Toss radicchio with olive oil, salt, and pepper.
Add vinegar gradually, tasting until the balance feels right — acidity should support, not dominate.
Plating Suggestions
Use a large plate and leave some negative space.
Build height rather than spreading the salad flat.
Add contrasting textures such as shaved fennel, citrus segments, firm pears sliced, nuts and fried capers. I also use firm peaches or vanilla persimmons, although these are not traditional ingredients. However, cuisine evolves and even traditional cuisine changes.
Finish with a final gloss of olive oil and intentionally placed shaved Parmigiano.
These small decisions/ finishing touches elevate salads from rustic home cooking to quietly sophisticated.
In Italy, lentils (lenticchie) are particularly eaten on New Year’s Eve (Capodanno) as they are one of the most enduring symbols of good luck, prosperity and abundance. As the old year concludes and the new one begins, bowls of lentils are placed on tables across the country, consumed with the hopeful belief that they will bring financial security and good fortune in the months ahead.
If you believe in tradition, eat them before midnight and make a wish for the year ahead.
Brown lentils (also known as green lentils) are followed by Puy (also known as French lentils) and a smaller variety of brown lentils.
The Symbolism of Lentils
The symbolism is ancient. Lentils’ small, round, coin-like shape has long been associated with money and wealth. This idea dates back to Roman times, when lentils were exchanged at the turn of the year in the hope they would transform into coins. Over centuries, this belief became embedded in Italian food culture, turning lentils into an essential New Year ritual rather than an everyday superstition. Some traditions even claim that the more lentils you eat, the greater your prosperity will be.
Traditional Pairings
Lentils are commonly paired with rich pork dishes such as cotechino or zampone but are equally satisfying when prepared on their own or with vegetables, herbs and olive oil. They can be served warm and garnished as a salad. These gently braised lentils are rich, comforting and symbolic, a dish to welcome prosperity in the coming year without being heavy. I have included a traditional and cultural recipe for lentils with cotechino on my blog.
I also enjoy braising good quality pork sausages with lentils. I am particularly fond of both of these dishes but it is also suitable for a warm Australian evening or as a salad for a barbecue. It can be eaten warm at room temperature or even the following day. In fact, like most lentil dishes, it improves with time.
This dish is more commonly associated with the north of Italy, but as we know, food habits change. Recipes travel. Traditions adapt. Just as panettone has become a Christmas fixture in Australia, lentils have found their way onto many New Year tables well beyond Italy. Lentils are traditionally eaten at the turn of the year because their coin-like shape symbolises wealth and abundance. This simple preparation allows their meaning — and flavour — to shine, making it a perfect dish to usher in the New Year with intention, restraint, and hope.
Lentils as an accompaniment to stuffed artichokes.
Customising and Enjoying Your Lenticchie di Capodanno
I have always prepared lentils in this manner, so I have never considered writing a recipe. For those who prefer Indian or Middle Eastern flavours, it is simple to omit the bay, rosemary and thyme and add Indian or Middle Eastern spices.
The cooking method will look familiar. Onion, carrot, and celery make their inevitable appearance — the Italian usual suspects. This soffritto forms the base of countless soups, braises, and stews, and it works just as well here.
You can easily adjust quantities. Add more lentils if you like leftovers (and you should). They reheat beautifully, and with a little extra liquid can even be turned into soup the next day — particularly welcome if you are living somewhere cooler than I am.
Serve warm or at room temperature or as a salad with a few additional simple ingredients.
And do appreciate the leftovers. The flavours deepen over the next few days. Very good eating indeed.
Italian New Year’s Lentils with Olive Oil, Garlic & Herbs
(Lenticchie di Capodanno all’Olio d’Oliva)
INGREDIENTS
4–6 as a side or light main
250 g dried lentils (Green lentils or Puy lentils)
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 carrot, finely diced
1 celery stalk, finely diced
2 cloves garlic, lightly crushed
2–3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to finish
1 bay leaf
A small sprig of rosemary or thyme
Vegetable stock or water (as needed)
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
METHOD
Rinse the lentils thoroughly. If using high-quality small lentils, soaking is not necessary.
In a wide saucepan, warm the olive oil over gentle heat. Add the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic. Cook slowly until soft and fragrant, without browning.
Stir in the lentils, bay leaf, and herbs. Coat well in the aromatic base.
Add enough stock or water to cover the lentils by about 3 cm. Bring to a gentle simmer.
Cook uncovered for 25–35 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the lentils are tender but still hold their shape. Add more liquid if needed.
Season with salt and pepper towards the end of cooking. Remove the bay leaf and herb sprigs.
Serving Suggestions and Tips
Serve warm in a shallow bowl, make it glistening with a generous drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.
For a salad add a little lemon zest, lemon juice or wine vinegar and for brightness finely chopped parsley.
Pair with sautéed greens, roasted vegetables, or crusty bread.
Roasted vegetables such as pumpkin, carrots and potatoes can be added to lentils for a hot or cold dish.
Store leftovers in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Flavours improve overnight.
Christmas produce in Australia and Italy presents distinct seasonal narratives.
In Melbourne, December is characterised by summer fruit, berries, stone fruit, fresh herbs and vibrant vegetables at the Queen Victoria Market where I shop. In Italy, Christmas occurs in winter, offering an extraordinary range of leafy greens, radicchio varieties, citrus, nuts and wild herbs—particularly in the North and South’s distinct regional traditions.
Residing near Queen Victoria Market and regularly speaking on SBS Italian Radio, I prepared a list of items I would consider purchasing and cooking for an Australian Christmas table and what I miss most from Italian December markets. However, time constraints prevented a comprehensive discussion.
Here are my lists.
Part 1:What I observed at Queen Victoria Market and I would consider buying for an Australian Christmas.
Part 2:Italian December Produce for Christmas and What I Miss Most.
PART 1. WHAT I OBSERVED AT THE QUEEN VICTORIA MARKET and I would consider buying for an Australian Christmas
Berries (Frutti di Bosco)
Beautiful specimens this year—especially strawberries—large, glossy, and expensive. Their size made me wonder about flavour.
Blackberries
Blueberries
Raspberries
Strawberries
Blueberries
Strawberries
Stone Fruit (Frutta a Nocciolo)
Surprisingly abundant for early December. Attractive but often picked slightly unripe.
Apricots
Cherries
Nectarines
Peaches
Other Fruit (Altre Verdure)
Figs were a surprise—very early in the season.
Honeydew melon
Rockmelon / Cantaloupe
Watermelon
Valencia oranges
Vegetables (Verdure)
Leafy Greens (Verdure a Foglia)
These also appear in winter, so their presence felt familiar.
Cavolo nero / kale
Spinach (bunches)
Silverbeet / Chard
Salad Greens (Insalate)
I was pleased to find chicory and endive though being winter vegetables, they may not last until Christmas.I use the soft, inner leaves for salads.
Lettuce
Rocket
Cucumber
Fennel
Radicchio
Radishes
Chicory
Endive
Endive
Chicory
Other Vegetables
The best discovery was fresh Australian garlic: aromatic, vibrant, and perfect for raw or cooked salads.
The thick white and green Asparagus looked good, as did mixed-colour cherry tomatoes—though flavour can be variable.
Artichokes
Asparagus (green and white, medium size)
Green beans
Capsicum
Eggplants
Fennel
Garlic (fresh and dried)
Leeks
Mushrooms
Tomatoes
Zucchini
Herbs
Basil
Chives
Dill
Mint
Oregano
Parsley
Thyme
Part 2. Italian December Produce for Christmas and What I Miss Most
When I think of Christmas in Italy, I immediately think of the incredible range of salad greens and radicchio varieties unavailable in Australia. The wild herbs
Below, a breakdown of North vs South Italy.
Northern Italy – December Vegetables and Fruit
Brassicas / Crucifers
Although these vegetables are found in Australia in December they are winter vegetables and their quality is variable.
Cavolo nero
Brussels sprouts
Cime di rapa (less common, but present)
Leafy Greens
The greatest absence in Australia is the variety of winter salads:
Radicchio (a true northern treasure)
Endive
Chicory
Winter lettuces
Matovilc / Lamb’s lettuce / Mâche – so popular in Trieste
Key Radicchio Varieties
Radicchio di Chioggia
Radicchio Rosso di Treviso Precoce
Radicchio Rosso di Treviso Tardivo
Radicchio di Verona
Radicchio di Castelfranco
Rosa del Veneto (Pink Radicchio)
Spadone
Bianco di Chioggia
Radicchio Triestino (soft, pale green, cut like grass)
radicchio
Radicchio
Radicchio
Radicchio varies in bitterness, texture, and colour, and these distinctions shape regional winter dishes.
Other Vegetables
Celeriac
Northern December Fruits
Chestnuts
Walnuts
Persimmons
Citrus (grown in the South but eaten everywhere)
Southern Italy – December Vegetables and Fruit
Brassicas
Cime di rapa (especially in Puglia)
Leafy Greens
Chard
Wild chicory
Seasonal lettuces
Spinach
Scarola , also called Indivia (typical of Campania)
Citrus (used like vegetables in salads)
Lemons
Blonde oranges
Blood oranges (Tarocco, Moro, Sanguinello)
Mandarins
Clementine IGP Calabria
Lemons
Cedro -its aroma, thick pith, and traditional uses in salads, candied in desserts and liqueurs,
Other December Fruits
Prickly pears in Siracusa
Late prickly pears
Persimmons
Nuts
Almonds
Walnuts
Hazelnuts (Campania)
Pistachios (Bronte, Sicily)
Mediterranean Aromatic Herbs & Wild Herbs
Erbe spontanee or erbe selvatiche are deeply rooted in southern and rural food traditions.
Wild asparagus
Wild asparagus
Collecting Sicilian edible wild greens in Agrigento
Common types include:
Dandelion
Wild chicory
Nettles
Wild asparagus
Wild fennel
Wild fennel
Wild Fennel bunches sold in Markets
Wild Fennel bunches sold in Markets
Used for: sautéed greens, frittate, broths, risotti. They are collected in the wild or simply sold in bunches at markets.
I use the tender hearts of Italian bitter greens — radicchio, chicory (cicoria), and curly endive (indivia riccia) to make a leaf salad that’s cleansing, refreshing, and slightly peppery.
While these vegetables are at their peak in winter, I am using them well into spring.
Bitter greens are a broad, diverse family of dark, leafy vegetables and cruciferous plants known for their assertive flavour. As well as the vegetables mentioned above, thinkcime di rapa, rocket (arugula), kale,cavolo nero, mustard greens, and watercress. Each has its own flavour and character.
In Italy, bitterness is appreciated and celebrated. Italians have a profound appreciation for sharp, bracing flavours – from consuming artichokes and the extensive range of bitter-leaf-based contorni (side dishes) and primi (pasta, risotto and soups) that showcase the depth of this taste in their cuisine. There is the enjoyment of downing espresso coffee and savouring the complex herbal flavours of amari (the iconic range of bitter-sweet aperitivi and digestivi).
“L’amaro è un gusto da apprezzare.”(Bitterness is a taste to be appreciated.)
Bitter greens do more than add flavour and have long been prized for their medicinal qualities. They stimulate the digestive system, activating enzymes and encouraging bile production – the age-old remedy for sluggish digestion. But beyond their health benefits, bitterness plays an important culinary role: it cuts through richness, brings balance to a dish, and pairs beautifully with bold or fatty ingredients.
When preparing these greens, I usually set aside the tougher outer leaves for cooking and reserve only the pale, tender, subtly bitter leaves from the inner hearts for raw salads.
The tougher outer leaves go well cooked: sautéed with olive oil and garlic, stirred into brothy soups, or wilted gently with legumes, they lend a slightly bitter edge that deepens the flavour of everything around them. Chicory or curly endive, either on their own or mixed, are excellent paired with beans – cannellini, borlotti, or even lentils. I pan-fry the greens in olive oil, flavour them with garlic and often add a couple of chili peppers or a few anchovy fillets for depth of flavour. The result is a rustic, homely and satisfying dish that makes a good entrée, contorno (side) or a simple main. It is also good when folded into a bowl of soup.
The inner, pale, tender leaves have visually attractive vibrant leaves. They offer crunch without overpowering intensity.
Use inner leaves from:
1 small head of radicchio, 1 small bunch of cicoria and 1 small head of curly endive (indivia riccia).
I have at times replaced one of the vegetables with witlof , rocket or watercress. I like frilly endive, dandelion leaves also, and puntarelle… when I can get them.
Preparing Bitter Greens for Salad
Trim & Clean
Remove any tough or damaged outer leaves—save these for cooking. Trim the stem end just enough to loosen the head without it falling apart.
Separate Tender Leaves
Gently pull apart the pale, inner leaves—these are the most delicate and best for salad.
Soak & Rinse
Soak the leaves in cold water for 5–10 minutes to remove grit and revive their crispness. Rinse well.
Dry Thoroughly
Use a salad spinner or clean towel to dry leaves hold dressing better and keep the salad vibrant.
Optional: store in the fridge
For extra crunch leave the washed leaves in the fridge for at least 30 minutes.
I play around with salads. Here are some Optional Additions that works well with these bitter greens:
Fresh Fruit: Orange segments, firm persimmon (vanilla type), pear, or apple slices. These add sweetness to balance the bitterness.
Nuts: Toasted walnuts or pine nuts bring crunch and a rich, nutty depth.
Cheese: Shavings of Parmesan or crumbled Gorgonzola add creaminess and umami.
Protein: A few good quality anchovy fillets, soft-boiled or hard boiled eggs, grilled chicken, or white beans make it more substantial.
Extra Colour and Flavour: Thinly sliced fennel, roasted beetroot, or edible flowers like nasturtiums elevate both presentation and taste.
I use a simple dressing – extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice or /and good quality wine or sherry vinegar, sea salt, cracked pepper.
I make braised fennel very often, so often, in fact, that I’ve never bothered to write a post about one of the ways to enjoy this vegetable in a fragrant broth.
Of course raw fennel is marvellous too, but fennel can be cooked in various ways and here is the recipe.
Preparing fennel is a straightforward process, and I employ the Italian culinary technique known as ‘cucina all’occhio’. This technique entails making intuitive decisions based on culinary expertise and knowledge.
Although there is no specific recipe, here are some general guidelines that I find helpful:
I always include herbs like parsley, fresh bay leaves, and minced garlic. If I have rosemary, thyme, or tarragon, I might add one of these too. Sometimes I add a little butter. This enhances the sauce and makes it velvety.
sectioned fennel with fronds and herbs
I always braise with stock – chicken or vegetable, that I stock in the freezer and I always add a splash of wine. That’s a northern Italian touch, not Sicilian.
If there’s some Cinzano Extra Dry vermouth that I have around, I’ll use that instead of the wine, especially if I have used tarragon. I’ve also used Pernod, which of course enhances the aniseed flavour. The ratio is simple: about 1 part alcohol to 8 parts stock.
PROCESS
Use a saucepan with a lid that fits the fennel snugly and allows enough room for liquid.
Clean and prepare the fennel: Cut off the stalks and discard them. Save the younger fronds—the wispy pale green ones.
I like to keep the leaves of the bulb intact as they cook, so I only trim part of the tough core. Then I cut the bulb into quarters.
Heat a little extra virgin olive oil in the pan. Lightly pan-fry the fennel quarters until lightly golden on both sides.
Lower the heat, add the stock and wine (or vermouth/ Pernod), the herbs, and a bit of minced garlic. The liquid should come about halfway up the fennel.
Cover and braise gently until the fennel is tender but still holding its shape.
If there’s too much liquid at the end, just remove the lid towards the end of the cooking process and let it reduce a little.
Of course, fennel is also great when it is simply baked… I just include it on the baking tray with potatoes (and other vegetables), but here are a couple of other cooked fennel recipes:
Cicoria (chicory) is of one of my favourite winter greens. This bitter, leafy vegetable is found in markets and greengrocers all over Italy, but is not as commonly here in Australia.
I especially love the open-air markets, where the bunches seem to have a life of their own and carts of wild-foraged cicoria are plentiful.
Cicoria is cultivated and sold in bunches, it is a green vegetable, but sometimes the stalks are tinted red. The cicoria family includes catalogna and puntarelle (also called Cicoria cimata). These are usually used in salads.
To the uninitiated, cicoria may seem like just another bitter leafy green. But in Italy, it holds a much more significant role.
What Is Cicoria?
Cicoria is a catch-all term Italians use for a variety of bitter greens: wild dandelion, catalogna, and puntarelle (which look like cicoria that has started to sprout). In English, it’s loosely translated as chicory, though it includes more varieties than you’d typically find at a greengrocer’s, especially in Australia.
In many parts of the world, chicory is seen more as a medicinal herb or a coffee substitute (in fact, chicory essence was widely consumed as “coffee” when I first arrived in Australia). But in Italy, it’s cherished—an essential vegetable in cucina povera, the humble, healthful peasant cooking that defines much of the country’s food culture.
Italians will tell you that bitter greens are “good for the liver”—and they’re right. Cicoria’s natural bitterness stimulates bile production, supports digestion, and nourishes the gut. Like artichokes, another bitter Italian favourite, it’s as healing as it is flavourful.
How I Cook Cicoria
There are endless ways to prepare cicoria, and most Italian recipes begin with boiling or blanching to soften it. That said, I don’t always do this—I often sauté the greens first, then add a bit of liquid, cover with a lid, and let them cook gently.
Cicoria Ripassata
The most traditional—and simplest—method is to boil or blanch the greens, then sauté with aromatics. This is known as cicoria ripassata: after boiling, the greens are “repassed” in olive oil with garlic and chili. Though often credited as a Roman dish, it’s made this way all over Italy. (The chili is optional.)
Boiled Cicoria with Lemon and Olive Oil
Surprisingly refreshing: just boiled cicoria with a drizzle of good olive oil and a squeeze of lemon. Sometimes served with a bit of its poaching liquid, this method is known as rinfrescante—cleansing and hydrating for the digestive system.
Cicoria with Legumes
Bitter greens pair beautifully with creamy beans. Mix cicoria with lentils, borlotti, or cannellini for a hearty side dish—or turn it into pasta e fagioli. I also like spooning cicoria and borlotti over polenta or cooking it with fresh Italian pork sausages and pasta.
Frittate
Leftover sautéed cicoria makes a fantastic frittata. I use all sorts of vegetables as a contorno (side dish) the day before, then reuse the leftovers in a frittata or add them to soups.
Salads
The tender inner leaves of the long leaf cicoria can also be eaten raw. I like mixing the young central leaves into salads with lettuce, rocket, radicchio, fennel, and endive.
Varieties like puntarelle and catalogna are also very popular salad ingredients. Romans traditionally dress puntarelle with anchovy vinaigrette.
Cicoria Ripassata
I often serve this as a contorno (side dish).
Ingredients:
1 large bunch of cicoria (chicory or dandelion greens)
2–3 cloves garlic, smashed
1 dried or fresh chili (or chili flakes)
Extra virgin olive oil
Salt, to taste
Instructions:
Clean the cicoria thoroughly, removing any tough stems and soaking well to remove grit.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Blanch the cicoria for 5–10 minutes, until tender. Drain well and gently squeeze out excess water.
In a wide skillet, heat a generous glug of olive oil. Add garlic and chili, and let them infuse the oil for a minute or two.
Add the cicoria, season with salt, and sauté for another 5 minutes, tossing to coat in the flavours.
Purea di Fave e Cicoria
(Broad Bean Purée with Chicory)
A Southern Italian winter favourite, this dish is both comforting and nutrient-rich. I sometimes swap fava beans for butter beans for convenience—they’re creamy, mild, and velvety. I often serve the purée with slivers of fresh or toasted bread, much like hummus. Try it as an antipasto with a Southern Italian wine such as Malvasia Bianca, Verdeca, or Fiano.
Ingredients:
1 cup dried split broad beans (or whole beans, peeled after soaking)
1 bunch of cicoria
2 cloves garlic
Extra virgin olive oil
Salt, to taste
Instructions:
Soak the broad beans overnight. Drain and peel if needed.
In a pot, cover the beans with fresh water and simmer over low heat until very soft (about 1 hour). Add water as needed. Once cooked, mash or purée with olive oil and salt until smooth and creamy.
Meanwhile, clean and boil the cicoria until tender. Drain and sauté with garlic and olive oil.
To serve, spoon the broad beann purée onto a plate, top with the cicoria, and finish with a generous drizzle of olive oil.
When a friend generously shares some of her freshly picked zucchini flowers from her garden, don’t you simply hug her?
As an ingredient, zucchini flowers are treasured in various cuisines for their subtle flavour and unique texture. Of course, this is the case in Italy.
I wanted to cook them very simply to preserve the delicate, sweet taste of the flowers. Basil is a soft herb and plentiful at the moment growing on my balcony. I made a frittata and a pasta sauce – both delicate and sweet tasting.
What Are Zucchini Flowers?
Zucchini flowers (courgette flowers in some parts of the world) are the edible blooms from the zucchini plant. Typically, the male flowers are harvested for culinary purposes, as they do not develop into zucchini. Male flowers feature a long, thin stalk, whereas female flowers sit at the end of the budding fruit. Their yellow-orange petals are visually appealing, and they have a mild, slightly sweet flavour that complements a variety of dishes.
Due to their delicate nature, zucchini flowers are tricky to purchase. They wilt quickly after being picked, which makes them a rare find in supermarkets and even at farmers’ markets. Occasionally, they might be sold still attached to the zucchini, which helps preserve their freshness. And this is why I am so grateful when a friend takes time to collect them and bring them fresh.
I stored them in a glass bowl, sealed them and put them in the fridge. The first day I used them to make a frittata. She bought me some more the next day and I cooked a pasta dish (recipe below).
Culinary Uses
Zucchini flowers are a versatile ingredient and can be prepared in numerous ways. A popular method is to stuff them, dipping them in batter before gently frying them to create a crispy, savoury treat. When preparing zucchini flowers, it’s important to handle them with care so gently wash them under cold water. The stamen from inside the flower can be removed if you wish.
To stuff zucchini flowers, carefully open the petals and place a small spoonful of filling inside. Gently twist the petals to close them around the stuffing. Dip the stuffed flowers in a light batter and fry them in hot oil until golden brown. They are delicious starter dish.
They can also be used for frittata, soups, and pasta dishes.
PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI, BASIL AND ZUCCHINI FLOWERS
This fresh, simple yet elegant pasta dish uses sautéed zucchini, with quite a bit of fresh basil leaves and stock. I used spirally and once dressed in this buttery, aromatic sauce, I topped the pasta with lightly sautéed zucchini flowers and more basil. There was plenty of grated Parmesan cheese for a perfect finishing touch. I also grated some fresh nutmeg on to the pasta to complement its’ fresh taste. I used Parmesan because it is more delicate than Pecorino and as an alternative, I would have been happy with fresh ricotta.
For 2-4 people, depending if it is an entrée or main
Ingredients:
6 zucchini, (or more) sliced or cut into cubes
4 tbsp butter (divided)
20+fresh basil leaves
stock – vegetable or chicken (about 1cup)
200g (or more) short pasta
12 zucchini flowers, gently cleaned
freshly grated Parmesan cheese, to serve
salt and pepper to taste
freshly ground nutmeg
Instructions:
Cook Zucchini: In a large pan, melt 2 tablespoon of butter over medium heat. Add the zucchini, season with salt and pepper, and sauté for about 10 -15 minutes until it softens and begins to caramelize. Add splashes stock if it starts to stick. Pour in the rest of the stock and cook to your liking Add about half of the basil leaves during the last couple minutes of cooking so they infuse the zucchini with their fragrance. Once done, set aside and keep warm.
Cook the Pasta: While the veggies cook, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and cook the pasta according to the package instructions. Reserve a little pasta cooking water before draining, in case you need to thin out your sauce. My pasta had sufficient stock and I did not need to do this.
Sauté the Zucchini Flowers: While the pasta cooks, heat the remaining butter in a small pan over medium heat. Add the zucchini flowers and sauté quickly for a couple of minutes until they wilt slightly. Add the fresh basil leaves sauté until they slightly soften. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Assemble the Dish: Once the pasta is drained, toss it into the pan with the cooked zucchini mixture. If the sauce looks too thick, add a little of the reserved pasta cooking water to help coat the pasta. Stir everything together to ensure the pasta is well-coated
Serve: Plate the pasta, and top with the sautéed zucchini flowers. Grate some fresh nutmeg on top
Present it with freshly grated Parmesan cheese (and a few extra basil leaves for garnish, if you wish).
Below: photo of Ravioloni (large ravioli) with zucchini flowers pan fried in some butter and sage as a dressing.
The frittata was extremely simple. I had some Brie in the fridge (cut into large slices) and used the flowers, fresh basil leaves, eggs and Brie. Once again I used butter.
The vibrant combination of currants, pine nuts, fennel seeds and saffron brings out the best in zucchini, turning them into something truly special and unusual for most people who may not be familiar with some of these Sicilian flavours. The combination of these ingredients create rich, complex flavours, both sweet and savory. The result is perfect for any gathering or as a meal at home.
This dish can be enjoyed served cold as a salad, warm or hot as a side or with pasta. It also makes a good strater.
Sometimes I get caught up in thinking that my everyday recipes aren’t worth sharing, but whenever I serve the different versions of this zucchini dish, I always receive compliments from friends, so it’s time to share the recipe.
If you have ever grown zucchini (or zucchine, is the plural form in Italian!), you know that they quickly multiply, leaving you with an abundance, or as some say – a zucchini glut. I remind growers that zucchini flowers are delicious stuffed, in a frittata or in pasta and I am surprised that many people are not aware of cooking the flowers. They are also delicious incorporated into this pasta dish.
Those fast-growing squashes turn into rather monstrous vegetables if not harvested quickly (called zucche in Italian once they get to a certain size). These are OK in soups, some people stuff them.
Sautéing onions in olive oil forms the base of this zucchini dish, and you gradually add the other ingredients, each enhancing the others. Depending on your preferences, you can keep the zucchini slightly al dente for a salad and cook them down further for a warm side dish or as a pasta dressing.
A Familiar Flavour in Sicilian cooking
Those familiar with the Sicilian recipe Pasta con le sarde (pasta with sardines) , or my recipe for pasta with cauliflower, sultanas, currants and anchovies, both on my blog will notice that the ingredients for this zucchini dish closely mirrors those same combination of flavours in those Sicilian pasta dishes. They also bring out the best in zucchini.
I sometimes add anchovies, a common ingredient in Sicilian cooking; it is a simple way to get amazing depth of flavour. On occasions I don’t use saffron and may use a few cherry tomatoes instead. In the photo below, in the jar, are the anchovies.
A splash of white wine and a little vegetable or chicken stock when braising the zucchini are ingredients that are common in most of my cooking.
Ingredients
For this dish, I usually estimate two small zucchini per person. If they are very small increase the quantities. Here’s what you’ll need:
8 small zucchini (around 2 per person)
4 tablespoons currants (soaked in a cup of warm water)
1 large onion, chopped
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
4 anchovies, finely chopped (optional, but they bring an incredible depth of flavour, use more or less)
2 bay leaves
1 handful fresh parsley, finely chopped
1 tablespoon fennel seeds
3-4 tablespoons pine nuts (toast them beforehand for an extra flavour boost)
1 small teaspoon saffron, soaked in warm water (let it infuse for at least 30 minutes)
salt, to taste, crushed dried chilies (optional, for a bit of heat) or black pepper
Preparation
Cut the zucchini into small batons or thin rings, depending on your preference. I prefer batons for a more unusual cut, but rings work beautifully too.
In a large frying pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the chopped onion and sauté until it becomes soft and translucent. The aroma will already start to fill your kitchen!
Add the anchovies (optional): If using anchovies, add them now, allowing them to melt into the oil. Stir gently with a wooden spoon, and let the anchovies dissolve, infusing the oil with their savory richness.
Add the zucchini pieces to the pan, along with the bay leaves and fennel seeds. Stir gently, letting the zucchini absorb the oil and spices, and allow them to colour lightly. The goal is to get them nicely coated without overcooking. Add salt at this stage but if you have used anchovies check for salt. Add chiliies if you wish.
Drain the currants and add them, the pine nuts, the chopped parsley, and the saffron (along with its soaking liquid). Season with salt and a pinch of crushed dried chilies, if using. Stir everything gently.
Cover the pan and let everything cook on low heat for about 10 -20 minutes, or until the zucchini are tender, but not mushy. You want them to maintain a slight bite, but if you prefer them softer, cook them a bit longer.
For a Pasta Dish
If you’d like to turn this into a pasta dish here’s how to do it:
Pasta: Use 300g of dry, short pasta for 4-5 people (or more if it’s your main course).
talians often recommend about 100g of pasta per person, but in our household, 500g of pasta is just right for a first course for 6-8 people. For extra flavour, finish the pasta with some freshly grated Pecorino cheese or toasted breadcrumbs
As a topping: Grated Pecorino (is preferred for Sicilian dishes) or Toasted Breadcrumbs
Breadcrumbs: To make the breadcrumbs, lightly fry 100g of day-old, quality bread (such as sourdough or pasta dura) in a little extra virgin olive oil. Add a pinch of grated lemon peel, a dash of cinnamon, and even a bit of sugar while frying for a fragrant, slightly sweet topping. Serve the breadcrumbs separately, so guests can sprinkle them on as they like.
Cook the pasta according to package instructions, then drain it and toss it into the pan with the zucchini mixture. Let the pasta absorb the flavours for about 5 minutes before serving.
The charred elegance of roasted peppers -—simple, bold, and unforgettable!
Peppers (capsicums) charred on a grill capture the essence of Sicilian cuisine. Simple, colourful, fragrant and full of flavour, this dish transforms humble ingredients into a culinary triumph.
Fresh basil, garlic and good extra virgin olive oil is all that is needed for a tasty salad, but I often keep more in the fridge to add to other dishes.
The Peperoni (peppers) are known as Pipi Arrustuti in Sicilian and Peperoni Arrostiti in Italian. Although they are grilled Arrostiti means roasted.
Especially perfect for summer and autumn when peppers are at their best.
Grilled peppers are versatile and can enhance a variety of dishes with their smoky, sweet flavor and are a fantastic way to add colour, flavour, and nutrition to almost any dish!
My preferred way is to present the Peperoni Arrostiti as an antipasto alongside crusty bread, as a topping for grilled meats, or even as a side dish. Its vibrant colours and robust flavors make it a show-stopping addition to any meal.
Peeling the peppers without rinsing preserves their intense smoky depth.
Peperoni Arrostiti, Roast Peppers
Below some serving suggestions:
Below, roast peppers surrownding some ricotta.
I usually add left over peppers to other salads, either made with uncooked vegetables or cooked, for example :
Toss grilled peppers with cucumbers, cherry tomatoes, herbs, black olives, red onion, a drizzle of good olive oil and lemon juice.
Combine grilled peppers with grains like quinoa, farro etc, along with rocket, pulses like chickpeas or any type of beans, roasted pumpkin or grilled zucchini or eggplant and perhaps a tahini dressing.
Ingredients
Peppers: 6, any color (a mix is ideal, with red peppers offering a sweeter note).
extra virgin olive Oil: 1/2 cup
garlic: 3 cloves, chopped
tomatoes: 2 whole, firm and red
basil leaves: About 3/4 cup, torn
salt and black pepper: To taste
Optional Variations:
Mint: replace basil for a fresh twist, a favourite among some parts of Sicily.
Lemon Juice: add a squeeze before serving, a common touch in southern Sicily, especially in Ragusa.
Toasted breadcrumbs (tossed in a hot frypan with a little extra virgin olive oil): some Sicilians sprinkle toasted breadcrumbs on the grilled peppers before serving. This is also a favourite topping for caponata.
Below, a photo of street food assold from the streets of Palermo.
Process
1. Roast the Peppers
Place the peppers on a BBQ grill over intense heat. Turn them frequently until the skin is blistered and puffy. Once charred, remove them from the grill and place them in a bowl, covering it with a plate or lid. This step allows the peppers to steam, making the skins easier to peel. Alternatively, wrap them in paper or place them in a plastic bag as my mother and relatives often do. Let them sit for at least 10 minutes.
2. Prepare the Tomatoes
Grill the tomatoes briefly until their skins split and char. This process takes only 1-2 minutes. Remove and set aside to cool.
3. Peel and Clean
Using your fingers, peel away the skins of both the peppers and tomatoes, scraping off as much charred skin as possible. Avoid rinsing to preserve the flavor. Split the peppers and remove the seeds, then tear both the peppers and tomatoes into rough strips.
4. Assemble the Dish
Place the torn peppers and tomatoes into a bowl. Add the slivered garlic and torn basil leaves. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil, season with salt and black pepper, and gently toss to combine.
5. Marinate
Let the mixture marinate for at least 30 minutes before serving. The flavors deepen beautifully if allowed to rest overnight.
You can also roast hot peppers/chillies to add to this salad or store them in extra virgin olive oil in the fridge to use elewhere,for example for making Harissa..
