Category: Sicilian

SBS Italian Radio – Stuffed artichokes & photos

When Massimiliano Gugole from SBS Italian Radio invited me to share a recipe on the morning show, I didn’t have to think twice—I chose stuffed artichokes. They’re my favourite way to prepare this elegant and flavoursome vegetable, and with the first spring artichokes just arriving at the Queen Victoria Market, the timing couldn’t have been better.

Over the years I’ve experimented with all sorts of fillings – minced meat (like mixture for polpette), ground almonds with ricotta, pan-fried breadcrumbs with egg, lemon zest and pine nuts, anchovies with black olives,  but I always come back to my favourite mix: breadcrumbs, parsley, a touch of garlic, grated parmesan (if I am trying to emulate Northern Italy) or pecorino (as in Southern Italy), and good olive oil. The mixture is gently tucked into the centres before the artichokes are simmered in stock, white wine, and bay leaves.

I usually serve them as a main, with vegetables cooked in the same pot. Because the artichokes need to stand upright (their stems trimmed at the base), I often nestle potatoes around them – they hold everything in place and soak up some of that exquisite, unique flavour.

potatoes used to hold artichokes upright

Whole potatoes can be added simultaneously with the artichokes, and  other spring vegetables such as peas and broad beans can be added approximately 15 minutes before the artichokes are cooked. Asparagus also makes a welcome addition and will need less cooking.  Additionally, I enjoy poaching eggs in the stock, adding protein for a better balanced meal.

I also ensure that good bread is placed at the table to soak up any remaining rich cooking juices. A spoon doesn’t go astray with friends either, although this does not follow Italian etiquette.

In this post I will translate the Italian podcast but also include photos of the preparation of the seven artichokes I cooked  for friends in my largest fish kettle a couple of weeks ago.

The Translated Podcast

“All Italians know how to cook artichokes,” says Marisa Raniolo Wilkins. But if you need some inspiration, here is a traditional, tasty, seasonal recipe, along with a few valuable tips for an excellent result.

“My favourite way to cook artichokes is the simple method my mother always used,” says Marisa Raniolo Wilkins, author of the blog All Things Sicilian And More.

“My maternal grandmother Maria (originally from Catania but who lived in Trieste for several years) also cooked them this way,” Marisa told SBS Italian, recalling how her grandmother used the same mixture of breadcrumbs, parsley, garlic, grated cheese, and a drizzle of olive oil to stuff her sardines, tomatoes, and artichokes.

“I like to serve artichokes as a main dish; they’re too fiddly to eat as a side,” she says. Listen to the recipe from the author of All Things Sicilian And More.

Ingredients (serves 6)
• 6 artichokes
• 100 g (1 cup) dry fresh breadcrumbs (made from good-quality bread, 1–2 days old, crust removed, finely chopped)
• 2 tablespoons chopped parsley
• 2 tablespoons grated cheese (Parmesan is fine, but in Sicily, pecorino is more common)
• A drizzle of extra virgin olive oil
• 4 cups stock (vegetable or chicken, stock cube is fine)
• 1 cup white wine
• About 1 cup extra virgin olive oil
• A few bay leaves

Marisa Raniolo recommends placing the artichokes in acidulated water as you prepare them — add the juice of a lemon to a bowl of water.

Preparation
Choose and clean the artichokes carefully. Cut off the stems so the base is flat — they need to stand upright in the pot, which should be the right size so the artichokes fit snugly and stay upright.

Peel the tough skin from the stems, cut about 1 cm from the tips of the artichokes, and remove the tougher outer leaves. Check for the choke in the centre, which is more common in mature artichokes.Choke is fieno/barba in Italian and hay and beard in English; one has to love the Italian language!

Drain the artichokes from the acidulated water. With your fingers, gently open the leaves, especially in the centre. Sprinkle a little salt, pepper, and a drizzle of olive oil between the leaves.

Mix the stuffing ingredients together and fill each artichoke.

“In Australia, artichokes are still considered exotic and perhaps difficult to prepare. But once you know how to clean them, they’re simple to cook,” says Marisa.

Place the artichokes upright in a pot. Put the stems between the artichokes and drizzle with more extra virgin olive oil.

I often like to press pine nuts into the stuffing.

Add the stock or water to about 2 cm below the top of the artichokes. Pour in the wine, add the bay leaves, and the rest of the oil.

Cover with a lid and cook slowly for about an hour.

You can also add peas, broad beans, and/or potatoes.

“I often add potatoes to help keep the artichokes standing,  and they’re very good,” Marisa explains. “Potatoes can be added straight away, while peas and broad beans should go in about 15 minutes before the artichokes are done.”

***Link: SBS PODCAST AND RECIPE

Below, market in Sicily. Artichokes are always sold with long stems because stems are delicious.

This is the process for preparing the artichokes explained with photos.

The Cleaning:

the stalks need to be stripped
notice how I remove the tough leaves leaving the edible part on the artichoke
the stems have been trimmed and the artichokes are kept in the acidulated water
the tops have been trimmed and the leaves need to be eased apart to make room for the stuffing in the centre

The Stuffing

The peeling/stripping of the stalks

Stuffing the artichokes

the artichokes are placed in the stock and wine
ready for cooking
artichokes sitting in a fish kettle

Some recipes:

I LOVE ARTICHOKES

ARTICHOKES and how we love them; CAPONATA DI CARCIOFI

ASPARAGUS and ARTICHOKES

Melbourne; August: Winter Artichokes in risotto and stuffed

SBS ITALIAN RADIO LIVE Winter vegetables, cauliflowers

I was recently invited to join the morning program on SBS Italian Radio, where I had the pleasure of discussing winter vegetables with hosts Massimiliano Gugole, who is based in Sydney and Andrea Pagani is based in Melbourne.

Living close to Queen Victoria Market, I’m fortunate to have a daily view of the bustling sheds and open-air car park from my balcony. The market is where I shop and where I’ve sourced fresh produce for as long as I have lived in Melbourne. Before that I lived in Adelaide and I also lived close to the Adelaide Central Market.

Quality ingredients, especially seasonal ones, are central to my cooking.

During the live broadcast, I noted that alongside typical winter produce, stalls are still offering late-season peppers, eggplants, and zucchini, mostly grown in warmer areas like Mildura. But what I was most excited about was the fennel – crisp, aromatic, and at its peak right now. Also in abundance are mushrooms, radicchio, witlof, chicory, and of course, the winter brassicas.

I was particularly pleased to find and cook the season’s first globe artichokes.

Artichokes

Chef Piera Pagnoni confirmed the richness of the winter harvest – cabbages, cauliflowers, fennel, broccoli – though she pointed out that these aren’t always children’s favourites. Her advice? “There’s always a secret weapon: cover it with béchamel, add a little Parmesan, put it in the oven… and everyone loves it.” Spoken like a true cook from Bologna, where pasta and comfort go hand in hand.

Later in the program, Chef Gianmarco Pardini from Sydney joined the conversation and reminded us that this is also a great season for fish: “The water is colder, so the fish eats more and becomes tastier.”

During the  program, I  remembered and shared a recipe that holds special meaning for me – a cauliflower dish my Sicilian grandmother from Catania used to prepare. It’s simple, seasonal, and a wonderful way to celebrate the best of winter produce.

CAULIFLOWER smothered in strong Sicilian flavour (Cavolfiore Affogato / Vruòcculi Affucati)

One of the most flavourful and dramatic ways to cook cauliflower comes from my grandmother Maria, who was born in Catania. This dish is called Cavolfiore Affogato in Italian, and Vruòcculi Affucati in Sicilian, meaning literally “smothered/ suffocated cauliflower”. It refers to the way the cauliflower is slowly simmered in red wine and olive oil, gently compressed so that it softens into a layered like tortino (pie/cake/mould).

The wine not only deepens the flavour but also gives the cauliflower a lovely rose-coloured tinge that is especially noticeable if you use the classic white variety of cauliflower. The yellow cauliflower has an even more striking result.

Cauliflowers are now available in many colours but while  purple or green versions are very attractive raw, they tend to lose their colour when cooked.

To cook

The method is quite unique. The small pieces of cauliflower are layered in a pot with anchovies, onion, pecorino, olive oil, and sometimes black olives. It should be 3-4 layers. It is then pressed under a weight as it cooks slowly on the stovetop.

To compress it, cover the layers with a piece of baking paper cut to shape, place a heat-safe plate on top, and add a weight.  When you select the plate is important to that the plate is smaller than the size of the saucepan so as to leave a space around the rim to allow evaporation of the contents.

As a weight, I usually use my stone mortar, but a smaller saucepan partially filled with water works just as well. The aim is to gently press the layers down while the wine and oil simmer slowly.

As it cooks, the liquid gradually evaporates. What remains is a flavoured, cohesive “cake”(like a tortino) that can be sliced.

I use a pan with a heavy base to distribute the heat gently and I often use a piece of baking paper on the base to avoid sticking or use a non-stick saucepan. If needed, a spoonful of water can be added during cooking, but with low heat and a well-made pot, it’s rarely necessary.

Vruòcculi Affucati is perfect as a side dish, especially next to something bold in flavour.  It’s traditionally served at room temperature, and lef tovers are even better the next day.

Ingredients

  • 1kg cauliflower or broccoli (white or yellow preferred)
  • 1 large onion, thinly sliced
  • 50–100g pecorino, thinly sliced
  • 4–5 anchovy fillets (or more if you like)
  • 1 glass of red wine
  • ¾ cup extra virgin olive oil
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • Salt, if needed
  • 10 black olives, pitted (optional)

Method

Lightly oil the base of a deep saucepan. Line it with baking paper if you like.

Add a layer of cauliflower, then top with onion, anchovies, pecorino, pepper, and olives (if using). Repeat for two more layers, drizzling with olive oil as you go. Make sure the top layer is just cauliflower.

Press the layers gently with your hands. Pour the red wine over the top and finish with a final drizzle of oil.

Cover with baking paper or foil cut to size, then weigh it down with a plate and something heavy.

Cook on the lowest heat for 30–40 minutes. You’ll hear it begin to sizzle when the liquid has evaporated.

Allow it to rest before turning.

And of course I had written this recipe on my blog years ago and it has different photos to this post:

 LINK- Spoken in Italian: SBS live morning radio

CAVOLOFIORE AFFOGATO (Cauliflower braised in red wine, cheese and anchovies)

Other cauliflower recipes:

PASTA RIMESTATA COI CAVOFIORI; Pasta with cauliflower, sultanas, pine nuts and anchovies

PASTA con cavolofiore, salsicce di maiale e ceci (pasta with cauliflower, pork sausages and chickpeas)

 

 

SICILIAN MARKETS; use of every part of the animal

When planning a trip to Sicily, I always recommend visiting the island’s ancient open-air markets. The merchandise, the sellers who enthusiastically promote their produce in vibrant Sicilian, and the shoppers create a captivating experience.

I have seen Guttoso’s painting of the Vucciria Market hanging in the Palazzo Chiaramonte Steri, but it is also on the cover of one of my books: Il Libro D’Oro Della Cucina e Dei Vini Di Sicilia, by Pino Correnti.

Wandering through the open air  markets feels like stepping into a living museum of food culture. But when you reach the meat section, don’t be surprised to see all parts of the animal on display—intestines, organs, heads, and feet.

Everything is used to the fullest and there is always something to discuss with the sellers.

While reading about offal, I came across the term il quinto quarto—the “fifth quarter.” It comes from Roman butchering traditions, where an animal is divided into four quarters: two forequarters and two hindquarters. What remains—the head, organs, feet, blood, skin, and scraps—is known as the fifth quarter. In English, we call it “offal,” though that word doesn’t quite carry the same cultural meaning.

This is the tripe vendor in Palermo who was delighted to share information about the various types of tripe he offered: washed and unwashed tripe. He also explained how the type of pasture the animal grazed influences the tripe’s flavour, with the most favoured variety being the one that originated from the most preferred pasture.

Historically, prime cuts were sold to the wealthy, while the so-called undesirable parts were left to poorer families. For those who raised and slaughtered their own animals, selling the meat was a necessity—they cooked with what was left. But this kind of cooking, known as cucina povera, led to a rich tradition of creative and nourishing dishes. Across Italy, these parts became integral to local Italian cuisine, cooked in traditional ways. Examples include: fegato di vitello (calf’s liver), fegatini di pollo (chicken livers), trippa (tripe), piedini (trotters), coda alla vaccinara (oxtail stew from Rome), animelle (sweetbreads), lampredotto (cow’s fourth stomach, loved in Florence), and milza (spleen), especially famous in Palermo.

Nowhere is this tradition is more alive than in Sicily, where nothing from the animal is wasted. Every bite carries a story, a memory, and a deep respect for what the land and sea provide. In the markets—especially around Palermo’s Ballarò and Vucciria—you see how Sicilian cuisine reflects centuries of conquest, hardship, and resilience. But above all, it reflects respect. For ingredients, for animals, and for tradition.

In Palermo, one of the most iconic Sicilian street foods is pani ca meusa—veal spleen and lung simmered in lard, served in a sesame roll.

Another vendor might be ladling out hot frittola, a traditional Sicilian street food made from leftover bits of meat such as cartilage and other offal. These are boiled, pressed, often fried in lard, and then served hot in paper cones.

You’ll also find stigghiola—lamb intestines wrapped around spring onions, grilled and seasoned with olive oil, lemon, and parsley.

In rural areas, especially around Easter, families prepare minestra di agnello, a rich soup made with lamb heart, liver, and lungs, simmered with wild herbs and foraged greens. This is similar to the Greek Easter soup magiritsa, and both reflect the themes of rebirth, sacrifice, and renewal tied to the Easter tradition.

Another favourite is budelline—lamb intestines sometimes stuffed with breadcrumbs, mint, and garlic, or simply grilled. Crisp on the outside, juicy inside.

 Then there’s trippa alla siciliana, tender strips of cow stomach stewed in tomato sauce with mint and a bit of cheese.

In the southeast, around Catania and Ragusa, you might come across zuzzu, (and gelatina) a cold meat jelly. I presented the recipe for Zuzzu as a podcast on SBS.

Below is a photo of the  hot stock rich with collagen being poured over the meat.

But the finished product can look like this:

Zuzzu is made from the pig’s head, ears, and skin—similar to coppa di testa.

From land to sea, the same Sicilian resourceful approach applies.

On the Egadi Islands, especially in Favignana, every part of the tuna is used—a tradition dating back to the Arab influence and the ritual mattanza, or tuna harvest.

The most famous and better known delicacy of tuna is bottarga—salt-cured tuna roe, shaved over pasta or served in thin slices with lemon.

But there’s more from the tuna. These can be found in Trapani and Milazzo:

  • Mascione – The tuna’s cheek, tender and rich, grilled or preserved in oil.
  • Ficazza – A cured tuna salami made from trimmings, bold and spicy.
  • Curubedda – A coarser version of ficazza, cured and sliced.
  • Tarantello – A prized cut between the belly and back, usually preserved.
  • Busunagghia – Gelatin-rich meat from near the spine, slow-cooked or cured.

Sicilian cuisine embodies the historical and cultural heritage of the island. Whether sourced from the land or the sea, every component of an animal plays a vital role, contributing to its unique flavour profile that deserves recognition.

Zuzzu/ gelatina:

SBS The Ugly Ducklings of Italian Cuisine (Scarrafoni in Cucina)

PESCE SALATO (Salted Fish in Sicily)and BOTTARGA revisited

PASTA CON BOTTARGA (Pasta with Grated Bottarga)

PANELLE, PALERMO STREET FOOD-Chick pea fritters and the Antica Focacceria San Francesco

Palermo and Sicily … peeling the onion

SOUTHERN ITALY: Caciocavallo and ’Nduja

I’ve long been familiar with caciocavallo cheese and ’nduja, but I always enjoy discovering new things about food and produce.

Being Italian I enjoy the endless journey through traditions, family stories, unique regions and small producers who put their heart into every ingredient. Researching Italian food is discovering a world inside every dish.

Recently, I visited a small restaurant that focuses on Southern Italian cuisine and had two dishes that sparked my curiosity.

The first was a caciocavallo that came from Puglia and not Sicily, as I was expecting. (Below is  a photo of the classic shape of caciocavallo)

The second was ’nduja, Calabria’s famously spicy, spreadable salume (small good). It was served warm in a small terracotta warmer, ready for dipping with some house-made warm focaccia. I’d never seen it served this way. At home, I tend to slice it like salame and serve it with some quality bread, in a much more rustic manner.

I find it fascinating how produce reflects the unique identity of each region. It’s all thanks to the geography, animal husbandry, and traditional techniques that shape what we grow and eat. A cheese is the flavour of the land, the animals that graze there, and the those that made it. The caciocavallo, from Southern Italy, has maintained its authenticity despite being mass-produced. Its Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) classification safeguards its unique characteristics.

The ‘nduja, which was traditionally made by hand after a pig was slaughtered, is now mass-produced, but traditional recipes remain largely unchanged.

Naturally, I had questions to ask at the restaurant. Fortunately, a passionate, food-loving waiter from Messina was happy to share his knowledge. What I love most about Italians is how even the simplest ingredients and recipes carry the weight of local pride. Thanks to his enthusiasm, I left with a deeper appreciation for these two iconic Southern Italian specialties and a strong urge to verify everything he told me.

Sometimes all it takes is a chatty, informative waiter to turn a good meal into an even better culinary experience. The list of Italian wines was also very good and again this waiter was happy to share his knowledge.

Caciocavallo

Caciocavallo is produced across several Southern Italian regions: Sicily, Basilicata, Calabria, Campania, Molise, and Puglia. However, I’ve always associated this cheese with Sicily, especially as it is made in Ragusa.

My paternal family roots are in Ragusa (photo above), so over the years I have visited Sicily many times. I developed a strong sense of pride around Caciocavallo Ragusano . This is made from the milk of Modica cows (Modica is a city close to Ragusa) that graze the wild pastures of the Iblei plateau. The cheese is rich and earthy, due to the wild herbs in the cows’ diet. My relatives led me to believe that this was the best caciocavallo, with all others being somewhat inferior. And I believed them.

I have eaten cheese produced by families in the region of Ragusa and, like my relatives, I appreciate caciocavallo very much. The caciocavallo cheeses The cheeses are the classic gourd or teardrop shape and are hung in pairs over a wooden beam (“cacio a cavallo” means “cheese on horseback”). It is appreciated as an aged cheese, but also when relatively fresh.

At the restaurant, I was offered Caciocavallo Podolico from Puglia. This local cheese is made from the milk of Podolica cows, a breed raised in southern Italy. Unlike cheese from Ragusa, Caciocavallo Podolico is aged for up to 36 months in natural caves. The cows feed on wild, aromatic herbs in a different terroir, giving the cheese a bold, intense flavour.

The restaurant served it pan-fried, warm, with a drizzle of honey and chilli flakes. The honey reminded me of how I’ve eaten pecorino in Liguria, not warmed.

Eating the caciocavallo from Puglia broadened my horizons beyond the exclusive patriotism for Ragusa-produced caciocavallo.

’Nduja

 ’Nduja is a soft, fermented, pork Calabrian salume made with about 30% chili peppers. Cured in natural casings, it remains spreadable because of the high fat content and fermentation.

Over the years, I have incorporated ‘nduja into various dishes and sauces, and have also enjoyed it sliced and served with bread, but I had never encountered it served warm. At the restaurant, it was presented in a unique warmer equipped with a small flame, ensuring a molten state and an opportunity to be scooped up with bread. This presentation is known as ‘scalda ‘nduja‘.

Here are a couple of ideas for enjoying these ingredients at home:

Pan-fried Caciocavallo: pan fry  in very little oil thick slices until golden, then drizzle with some quality honey and a sprinkle of chilli flakes. Look for DOP or regional varieties at specialty Italian shops.

Warm ’Nduja: Gently heat a slice in a ramekin in the microwave or small pan and serve with warm bread for dipping.. The restaurant served it with focaccia.

I’ve written other posts, especially about ‘nduja that may stimulate more adventures in the kitchen:

Squid with ‘nduja

‘NDUJA

NDUJA, a spreadable and spicy pork salame from Calabria

NDUJA, was considered peasant food in Calabria

PASTA with ‘NDUJA, CIME DI RAPA and PORK SAUSAGES

NDUJA with SQUID, very simple

NDUJA and CALAMARI as a pasta sauce

NDUJA, SQUID, VONGOLE AND PAN GRATTATO with Spaghetti

CACIOCAVALLO and similar cheese

SICILIAN CHEESE MAKING. A VISIT TO A MASSARO (farmer-cheese maker) IN RAGUSA. Formaggio argentiera

There are many recipes that include Caciocavallo as an ingredient  –  use the search button on my blog.

Below, photo of Ragusa.

EASTER IN SICILY: Faith, Spring, History and Cassata

Easter in Sicily is more than a religious celebration; it’s a mix of faith, spring and history. It is a time when the sacred rituals and the everyday come together. It reminds people of the past, celebrates the present, and looks forward to the future with hope.

Religion, especially Catholicism, is at the heart of life in Sicily, and this is most visible during Holy Week and the Easter Celebrations. From Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday, towns and cities across the island are filled with devotion and tradition.

On Good Friday, processions move slowly through the old streets. During the week churches are filled with music, the smell of incense, and quiet prayers; these rituals passed down through generations.

Easter Sunday marks the resurrection of Christ and brings a sense of festivity after the solemn days leading up to it. But Easter also connects with something older and more natural: the arrival of spring. As winter fades, nature comes back to life—trees bud, flowers bloom, and the days grow longer. It’s a time of new beginnings and hope.

Some Easter traditions in Sicily have roots that go back even further than Christianity. In Enna, for example, a priest blesses the fields, praying for good crops and weather. This ceremony likely comes from ancient agricultural customs.

One of the most striking events is the procession of fifteen local confraternities, each with its own unique clothing and customs. This tradition dates back to the 15th to 17th centuries and shows the influence of Spanish rule on Sicilian religious life. I was in Enna during easter time a while back.

With any festivity in Sicily, food plays an essential role—and Easter is no exception.

Alongside the religious rituals and springtime renewal, special dishes take centre stage.

One of the most iconic Easter desserts is the elaborate Sicilian cassata

While there are several versions of cassata – including a frozen ricotta and sponge cake version known as cassata gelata, and a baked pastry version filled with sweetened ricotta, known as cassata in forno, the most famous is the traditional highly decorated cassata.

Cassata al forno

This eye-catching, baroque-style cake is usually topped with colourful glacé fruits and candied citrus peel. It’s a dessert that isn’t typically made at home but is crafted by skilled pasticceri (pastry makers) in Sicily’s many historic pastry shops (pasticcerie).  Some that have been in operation for generations.

In this is the case with most Italians, they leave the pastry making to the experts.

The classic Sicilian cassata is made of three main parts. First, there’s a soft sponge cake, often moistened with a splash of liqueur and used to line the mould. Inside is a rich, sweetened ricotta filling, made with sheep’s milk (sweeter than cow’s milk) and mixed with small pieces of candied citrus and dark chocolate. Finally, the entire cake is covered with a layer of green marzipan or a smooth glaze of sugar icing, then decorated with intricate patterns and colourful candied fruits.

But cassata is more than just a dessert – it’s a layered representation of Sicily’s complex cultural and historical past and its origins are believed to reflect the many cultures that have shaped the island. The name cassata may come from the Arabic qas’ah, meaning “bowl,” referring to the traditional mould used to shape the cake. The Arabs introduced sugar to Sicily, along with candied fruits, which are key ingredients in the cake. The sponge cake, called Pan di Spagna in Italian, likely came from the Spanish, while the elaborate icing and presentation were influenced by the Monsù – French-trained chefs who worked in aristocratic Sicilian households in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Some of these chefs were French, while others came from Piedmont, a region in northern Italy that was under French control during that time. These Monsù added a touch of French elegance and flair to traditional Sicilian cooking, turning simple ingredients into refined and artistic dishes. Cassata, with its rich mix of flavours, textures, and cultural layers, is a perfect example.

While the traditional cassata is a showstopper, not everyone has the time, or the team of expert pasticceri to make such an elaborate creation.

I have made many cassate (plural) at home, the last one was probably approximately three years ago.

Tastes change, people’s diets do as well and I now have a more enjoyable method of utilising the same delectable flavours in a simpler manner. By employing the classic ingredients, I have crafted various versions of a deconstructed cassata-inspired dessert, such as the deconstructed cassata below where I added strawberries. I have made a few of these and they have always been a success.

the next time, I intend to serve the deconstructed cassata in a large wine glass. This presentation will be both easy to prepare and visually appealing. Furthermore, my previous deconstructed cassata retains the essence of the original, while eliminating the complexities associated with traditional preparation.

Deconstructed Cassata in a Glass

Ingredients (4 – 6 people)

* 500 g fresh ricotta, combined with a splash of thick cream (adjust the quantity to achieve a creamy consistency)

* 100 g caster sugar (or honey or Monk Fruit, as a sugar substitute)

* A few drops of vanilla concentrate

* Orange and citron (cedro) peel, soaked in Cointreau for at least a couple of hours. I use this French Liqueur because it is very orange flavoured.

* Small pieces of exceptionally dark chocolate

* Savoiardi (sponge fingers or Pan di Spagna/sponge cake) for use as a base or topping. Please refer to the “To Serve” section below for an estimate of the required quantities.

Marzipan leaves

* 100 g blanched almond meal

* 100 g icing sugar

* 1 egg white

* 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

* 1 drop of green food dye

Method:

Combine the marzipan ingredients in a bowl and knead until smooth. If the mixture is excessively wet, add more almond meal or sugar. I frequently a greater ratio to sugar.  Roll the marzipan thinly between two sheets of baking paper and cut into leaf shapes. These marzipan leaves serve as a delightful garnish and a playful tribute to the traditional decoration.

To Serve:

Experiment with the composition of the dessert. Here are a couple of suggestions:

* Place 1-2 Savoiardi (sponge fingers) or some sponge cake on the bottom of the glass and lightly brush it with the reserved Cointreau.

* Spread the creamy ricotta mixture over the sponge layer.

* Top the ricotta layer with another layer of sponge or savoiardi moistened with the reserved Cointreau. Top with some Marzipan leaves.

Alternatively, you can create a layered dessert by alternating between the ricotta mixture and the sponge layer, with each layer lightly brushed with Cointreau.

I prefer this one:

*Spoon generous layers of the ricotta mixture into large wine glasses.

*Garnish with marzipan leaves and 1-2 dry Savoiardi biscuits (not soaked in Cointreau) nestled into the glass, allowing you to scoop up the ricotta with the biscuits. Top with Marzipan leaves. Drink Cointreau on the side.

These are versions of reimagined cassata – less formal, enjoyable and may be more sympathetic of people’s tastes and diet, but still embodying Sicilian character. Ideal for when you desire to serve something visually appealing and steeped in tradition, without dedicating hours to the kitchen.

CASSATA DECONSTRUCTED; a postmodernist take on Sicilian Cassata

EASTER (Pasqua) in Sicily

CASSATA Explained with photos

CASSATA ( Post no. 2) Calls for a celebration!!!

EASTER SICILIAN SPECIALTIES …. Cuddura cù ova, Pecorelle Pasquali

SCACCE and PIZZA and SICILIAN EASTER

EASTER IN SICILY – A SICILIAN FEAST IN RAGUSA – Recipes and Giuggiulena

EASTER (Pasqua) in Sicily

 

MANNA IN SICILY(ORTIGIA)

This is how I found Manna in Sicily: In 2009, I stumbled upon something unexpected while wandering through the bustling market of Ortigia in Syracuse.

Concealed behind the stalls of local produce, including fruits, vegetables, meats, and fish, I discovered a diverse array of unfamiliar and curious ingredients. within a diminutive and captivating shop.

The shop was filled with sacks, boxes, unusual jars, and tins, each containing a treasure trove of smells and visual delights.

Among them was the most intriguing substance – Manna – the Manna I had only encountered mentioned in the Bible.

How entrancing to find that Manna is a crystalline resin, extracted from the bark of ash trees and it doesn’t rain down from heaven.

The shop, aptly named Il Mago Delle Spezie (The Wizard of Spices), was owned by Antonio Drago, a master of culinary alchemy (especially Sicilian) who was more than willing to chat about his aromatic collection. Drago’s offerings showcased an array of local, ancient produce and exotic spices, many originating from distant lands.

My encounter with Antonio Drago left a lasting impression; he was full of stories about the origins of local food and ancient methods.

So, after all this time why am I writing about manna?

A friend recently shared an article from the BBC discussing the revival of manna harvesting in Sicily, and suddenly, memories of that magical shop in Ortigia came flooding back. I remembered discovering this ancient “superfood” and the curious wizard who introduced me to it. As I read about how Manna is now being harvested again in the Madonie mountains, I reflected on my first encounter with this biblical ingredient in that small, mysterious shop that sparked a deeper curiosity about its place in Sicily’s rich, culinary heritage.

There are a number of recipes on the web written in Italian that utilise this ingredient in the place of sugar in cakes, biscuits, beverages, creams and ice cream. it is also a product that is beneficial for the skin.

I looked up Antonio Drago and found a reference on the net, written in Italian about his business and how with the help of his two sons it evolved into bigger premises. Here is what I found:

Antonio Drago’s Journey: From Spice Shop to Culinary Haven

This is a summary and translation of the text. In some places, I have purposely retained some of the illustrative, fanciful language.

In the heart of Syracuse, nestled near the historic market of Ortigia, you’ll find “Drogheria Drago con cucina” at Via Benedictis 20. This charming establishment has evolved since its founding in October 1972, under the rising moon and the alignment of Mercury, Mars, and Jupiter. It was born under the protection of Mercury, the patron of merchants, and the success driven by the combative spirit of Mars.

Originally, the small shop was focused on selling “colonial” goods – ancient, traditional local home-made produce as well as imported spices, herbs, and aromas. Over time, the store expanded to include a variety of local agricultural and fishing products: sun-dried Pachino tomato paste, Trapani salt-cured capers, Avola almonds, Etna pistachios, tuna and swordfish bottarga, and red tuna and mackerel fillets preserved in oil or salted.

Antonio’s two sons – Luciano and Francesco – grew up and eagerly joined the venture. They decided to renovate the space and add a kitchen for preparing and serving local dishes. Thus, “Drogheria Drago con cucina” where customers can enjoy traditional dishes alongside a wide selection of spices, local products, and specialties from the region.

Manna: A Biblical Superfood Revived in Sicily. A summary of the BBC article

Manna is mentioned 17 times in the Bible. It turns out to be an ancient resin harvested from ash trees, traditionally found in the Mediterranean. Once a key part of the local economy, manna harvesting almost vanished with urbanisation and industrialisation over the past 80 years. But today, a revival is underway.

Manna is collected from the bark of Fraxinus ornus trees, where thick lines of the white, mineral-rich resin ooze. It has a honey-like sweetness with almond undertones, and it was once used as a natural sweetener, medicinal aid, and even a form of currency. Despite its decline, Sicilian farmer Giulio Gelardi has been at the forefront of its revival, dedicating himself to bringing this ancient “superfood” back to tables around the world.

In the Madonie mountains, Gelardi has spent decades perfecting the art of manna harvesting, a process that involves precise observation and intuition. Manna is not only a sweet treat but also a powerful medicinal substance, used for a variety of ailments like constipation and sore throats, and it has become an important ingredient in modern Sicilian cuisine.

Today, manna is gaining recognition globally, used by chefs in innovative dishes and even in high-end skincare products. Thanks to the efforts of people like Gelardi, this once-forgotten food is now a prized ingredient, celebrated for its taste, health benefits, and cultural significance.

https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20250328-the-return-of-sicilys-ancient-white-gold

PRICKLY PEARS Fichi d’India and a paste called Mostarda

A SIMPLE RECIPE

Here is a simple recipe to make a Ricotta Ice Cream using Manna as the sweetener. Obviously,  I have not found Manna to make this.

Beat 5 egg yolks till creamy. Add 300 g of ricotta sifted with a fork, a dash of brandy or rum and half a glass of milk in which you will have dissolved about 60g of manna. Finally pour the mixture into the ice cream maker.

Rather than brandy or rum, I would probably add an orange based liqueur (or one of your choice). This would add flavour, but also sugar and make it sweeter.

 

 

 

A TASTE OF PALERMO: Pasta con le Sarde

When I cook Pasta Con Le Sarde (pasta with sardines), an iconic dish from Palermo, I can always count on my guests falling in love with Sicilian food.

This dish is a beautiful celebration of Sicily’s history, combining pasta with the deep flavours of sardines, spring onions (I especially like the green leaves), wild fennel, saffron, currants, fennel bulbs, toasted pine nuts and/or almonds. The crowning touch is a topping of crispy, golden breadcrumbs, sautéed in olive oil. The combination of ingredients is both unexpected and fascinating. But how can a dish so rich with these unique flavours be Italian? Where are the ingredients that one associates with Italian food?

The answer lies in the island’s fascinating history.

Sicily, and especially Palermo, has long been a crossroads of cultures, where various peoples and flavours were absorbed and blended. One of the most influential groups were the Arabs who settled in Sicily and ruled the island from the 9th to the 11th centuries. The Arabs brought with them an array of ingredients and culinary techniques, many of which still permeate Sicilian cooking today. The use of fennel, saffron, almonds, pine nuts, and currants, as well as the habit of combining sweet and savoury elements in one dish, are hallmarks of Arabic influence.

The photos are of Palermo.

A critical ingredient in pasta con le sarde is wild fennel, which contributes a fresh, slightly aniseed flavour to the dish. However, wild fennel has a short growing season and can be difficult to forage, and if you’re making this dish outside of the growing season you may only find stalky, yellowing plants, as I did recently, but I managed to find some fresh shoots. While you can’t replace the wild fennel entirely, you can substitute it with fennel bulbs (preferably with their fronds still attached), which will lend the dish a similar flavour profile. This too is seasonal.

Sometimes, if I am short of fennel, I add some fennel seeds to the pasta water or to the fennel and onions when I am cooking them.

Ingredients:

For Cooking the Pasta: Wild fennel stalks and fronds (if available) to infuse the cooking water.

Recommended Pasta Shape: Bucatini is the traditional choice, but spaghetti or casarecce will also work well.

extra virgin olive oil

500g fresh sardine fillets

4 spring onions, finely chopped

a handful of fennel fronds, finely chopped

1-2 fennel bulb, finely diced

a pinch of saffron (soaked in a little warm water)

50g currants (soaked in water for 10 minutes)

50g – 100g toasted pine nuts and or toasted almonds, roughly chopped

salt and pepper to taste (or a pinch of ground chili for heat)

For the Breadcrumb Topping:

1 cup breadcrumbs made from good quality day-old bread

a pinch of sugar

a sprinkle of ground cinnamon (optional, but adds a nice touch)

grated lemon zest

Instructions:

Prepare the Ingredients:

  • Make sure that the sardine fillets are free of bones.
  • Chop the spring onions and fennel fronds. Dice the fennel bulbs.
  • Soak in a little water the saffron and currants in separate bowls.

Make the Breadcrumb Topping:

  • Heat a little olive oil in a pan and add the breadcrumbs.
  • Stir in the sugar, cinnamon, and lemon zest.
  • Toast the breadcrumbs until golden and fragrant. Set aside.

Prepare the Pasta Water:

  • Add fennel stalks and some of the tough fronds in a pot of water, add a little salt and bring the salted water to a boil. Let them simmer for about 30 minutes to infuse the water with flavour.

Cook the Sardine Sauce:

  • Heat olive oil in a pan. Sauté the spring onions until soft and fragrant.
  • Add the fennel bulb and fronds and cook until softened. You may need to add a splash of water or white wine to help soften the fennel, depending on its texture.
  • Stir in the saffron, currants, pine nuts, and almonds. Season with salt and pepper (or chili if you prefer a little heat). Blend the flavours and cook for a few minutes and leave it to rest while you cook the pasta and fry the sardines.
  • Drain the solids out of the fennel infused water.  Cook the bucatini (or your choice of pasta) according to the package instructions, using the fennel-infused water for a subtle flavour boost. Once the pasta is ready, drain it, reserving a little of the cooking water in case you need it.

  • In a separate pan, fry the sardine fillets in a little olive oil. I sometimes add a few greens from a spring onion or a few fennel seeds but it isn’t optional).  They will cook quickly, and some may begin to break apart. Break about ¾ of them up slightly and add them to the fennel mixture. Reserve the whole fillets to place on top of the dressed pasta.

Assemble the Dish:

  • Toss the cooked pasta into the sardine and fennel mixture, ensuring the flavours are well incorporated. If the sauce seems a little dry, add some reserved pasta cooking water to bring it all together. At this stage I will probably add a splash of extra virgin olive oil.
  • Transfer the pasta to a serving dish, top it with the sardines and generously sprinkle with the nuts.
  • At this stage you have a choice. You could also top the pasta with some toasted breadcrumbs and place the extra crumbs in a bowl so that eaters can help themselves as they would with grated cheese, or to gently fold the nuts and fillets through the pasta before topping the whole bowl with toasted breadcrumbs.
Pasta Con Le Sarde – Pasta with sardines, Sicilian from my book Sicilian Seafood Cooking

You can never have enough posts for Pasta Con Le Sarde:

PASTA CON LE SARDE (SARDINES)

PASTA CON LE SARDE, an iconic Sicilian recipe from Palermo. Cooked at Slow Food Festival Melbourne

PASTA CON SARDE; the baked version, Palermo, Sicily

FISH STUDDED WITH FLAVOURS

Fish cutlets (or portions) studded with flavours (herbs and spices) is something that I make quite often and is a versatile dish that keeps on evolving. I began this recipe by inserting Sicilian flavours – cinnamon, cloves, lemon peel, garlic, fennel, oregano, parsley, and degalzing the fish with dry Marsala and then the recipe evolved from there.

The beauty of this dish is its adaptability—I can’t recall ever making it the same way twice! Each time I prepare it, I change the flavours I use to insert into the fish and it becomes a new taste sensation each time. Whether it’s herbs, different spices, or different types of liquids to deglaze, the possibilities are endless.

For instance, I love using herbs, which vary depending on the season. And when it comes to deglazing the pan, I  use anything from a splash of wine (or other alcohol), to stock . And the result is a dish that feels new with every iteration.

There is a recipe for this style of cooking in my book Sicilian Seafood Cooking –  Tunnu Ammuttunatu (Sicilian) or Pesce Staccato e con Marsala (Italian) and in English, it translates to Tuna Studded with Flavours and Braised in Marsala.

Over the years, I’ve made subtle adjustments to the recipe, fine-tuning it to match my evolving tastes, the people I am feeding and the ingredients available.

I also have another related recipe in this blog where I used Trevally as the fish: it is a perfect example of how adaptable this method can be.

Recently, I experimented with mackerel, adding capers to deglaze the pan (some of my guests do not drink alcohol), but the capers added an extra layer of briny taste. Pretty good and different again.

Here’s the original recipe from my book, Sicilian Seafood Cooking:

Tunnu ammuttunatu
Pesce steccato e con marsala
Fish, studded with flavours and braised in marsala

I like to use a whole fillet of fish, which I estimate will feed no more than
four people when cut into portions. For more people, I buy two fillets.

I like to serve this very pink in the centre, but it will not suffer if it is cooked longer, as done in Sicily. Long whole fillets will not cook evenly and can be adventageous as it provides well cooked and rare tuna eaters a choice.

Individual portions of large fish or tuna can also be studded and cooked in this manner.

Stud the flesh with one or more flavours – garlic (halved), cloves, a
cinnamon stick (broken into small pieces) – and a herb, (mint, rosemary
or oregano).

Below, various cuts of tuna in an open Sicilian market in Acireale, north of Catania.

Ingredients

1-1.2kg tuna fillet
1 cup dry marsala

flavourings (see intro)
1/2 to1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
3 fresh bay leaves
mint leaves for serving

Processes

Use a knife with a long thin blade and make a number of deep, regularly
spaced slits in the fillet. Insert flavourings (see above) into each slit. When
you cut the fillet into portions, each portion should have four slits.

Heat oil in a pan and seal the fish on all sides. Add marsala and bay
leaves and reduce slightly, cover and braise over low heat. Add more
marsala (or water) if the dish is drying out.

A fillet of four portions cooks in about 15–20 minutes. To test, insert a metal skewer into the centre – if it is done the skewer will be just warm to the touch. If it feels cool, cook
for a little longer.

Place the fish on a large platter, pour over the sauce and scatter with mint.

And if you’re interested in exploring the Trevally version, here’s the link to the full recipe on my blog:

FISH STUDDED WITH SICILIAN FLAVOURS

ZUCCHINI WITH CURRANTS, PINE NUTS and SAFFRON

The vibrant combination of currants, pine nuts, fennel seeds and saffron brings out the best in zucchini, turning them into something truly special and unusual for most people who may not be familiar with some of these Sicilian flavours.   The combination of these ingredients create rich, complex flavours, both sweet and savory. The result is perfect for any gathering or as a meal at home.

This dish can be enjoyed served cold as a salad, warm or hot as a side or with pasta. It also makes a good strater.

Sometimes I get caught up in thinking that my everyday recipes aren’t worth sharing, but whenever I serve the different versions of this zucchini dish, I always receive compliments from friends, so it’s time to share the recipe.

If you have ever grown zucchini (or zucchine, is the plural form in Italian!), you know that they quickly multiply, leaving you with an abundance, or as some say – a zucchini glut. I remind growers that zucchini flowers are delicious stuffed, in a frittata or in pasta and I am surprised that many people are not aware of  cooking the flowers. They are also delicious incorporated into this pasta dish.

Those fast-growing squashes turn into rather monstrous vegetables if not harvested quickly (called zucche in Italian once they get to a certain size). These are OK in soups, some people stuff them.

Sautéing onions in olive oil forms the base of this zucchini dish, and you gradually add the other ingredients, each enhancing the others. Depending on your preferences, you can keep the zucchini slightly al dente for a salad and cook them down further for a warm side dish or as a pasta dressing.

A Familiar Flavour in Sicilian cooking 

Those familiar with the Sicilian recipe Pasta con le sarde (pasta with sardines)  , or my recipe for pasta with cauliflower, sultanas, currants and anchovies, both on my blog will notice that the ingredients for this zucchini dish closely mirrors those same combination of flavours in those Sicilian pasta dishes. They also bring out the best in zucchini.

I sometimes add anchovies, a common ingredient in Sicilian cooking; it is a simple way to get amazing depth of flavour. On occasions I don’t use saffron and may use a few cherry tomatoes instead. In the photo below, in the jar, are the anchovies.

A splash of white wine and a little vegetable or chicken stock when braising the zucchini  are ingredients that are common in most of my cooking.

Ingredients

For this dish, I usually estimate two small zucchini per person. If they are very small increase the quantities. Here’s what you’ll need:

8 small zucchini (around 2 per person)

4 tablespoons currants (soaked in a cup of warm water)

1 large onion, chopped

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

4 anchovies, finely chopped (optional, but they bring an incredible depth of flavour, use more or less)

2 bay leaves

1 handful fresh parsley, finely chopped

1 tablespoon fennel seeds

3-4 tablespoons pine nuts (toast them beforehand for an extra flavour boost)

1 small teaspoon saffron, soaked in warm water (let it infuse for at least 30 minutes)

salt, to taste, crushed dried chilies (optional, for a bit of heat) or black pepper

Preparation

Cut the zucchini into small batons or thin rings, depending on your preference. I prefer batons for a more unusual cut, but rings work beautifully too.

 

 In a large frying pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the chopped onion and sauté until it becomes soft and translucent. The aroma will already start to fill your kitchen!

Add the anchovies (optional): If using anchovies, add them now, allowing them to melt into the oil. Stir gently with a wooden spoon, and let the anchovies dissolve, infusing the oil with their savory richness.

Add the zucchini pieces to the pan, along with the bay leaves and fennel seeds. Stir gently, letting the zucchini absorb the oil and spices, and allow them to colour lightly. The goal is to get them nicely coated without overcooking. Add salt at this stage but if you have used anchovies check for salt. Add chiliies if you wish.

Drain the currants and add them, the pine nuts, the chopped parsley, and the saffron (along with its soaking liquid). Season with salt and a pinch of crushed dried chilies, if using. Stir everything gently.

Cover the pan and let everything cook on low heat for about 10 -20 minutes, or until the zucchini are tender, but not mushy. You want them to maintain a slight bite, but if you prefer them softer, cook them a bit longer.

For a Pasta Dish

If you’d like to turn this into a pasta dish  here’s how to do it:

Pasta: Use 300g of dry, short pasta for 4-5 people (or more if it’s your main course).

talians often recommend about 100g of pasta per person, but in our household, 500g of pasta is just right for a first course for 6-8 people. For extra flavour, finish the pasta with some freshly grated Pecorino cheese or toasted breadcrumbs

As a topping: Grated Pecorino (is preferred for Sicilian dishes) or Toasted Breadcrumbs

Breadcrumbs: To make the breadcrumbs, lightly fry 100g of day-old, quality bread (such as sourdough or pasta dura) in a little extra virgin olive oil. Add a pinch of grated lemon peel, a dash of cinnamon, and even a bit of sugar while frying for a fragrant, slightly sweet topping. Serve the breadcrumbs separately, so guests can sprinkle them on as they like.

Cook the pasta according to package instructions, then drain it and toss it into the pan with the zucchini mixture. Let the pasta absorb the flavours for about 5 minutes before serving.

PASTA CON LE SARDE (SARDINES)

PASTA CON LE SARDE, Iconic Sicilian made easy

PASTA RIMESTATA COI CAVOFIORI; Pasta with cauliflower, sultanas, pine nuts and anchovies

EGG PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI FLOWERS, ZUCCHINI, PINE NUTS and STRACCIATELLA (egg drop)

STUFFED ZUCCHINI FLOWERS

PASTA CON ZUCCHINE FRITTE (Pasta and fried zucchini)

EGG PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI FLOWERS, ZUCCHINI, PINE NUTS and STRACCIATELLA (egg drop)

COOKING DUCK: Not Just for Special Occasions

Duck is often seen as a luxury dish reserved for special occasions, but it doesn’t have to be – whether minced, whole or breasts.

On my blog, I have some recipes that show how versatile and accessible cooking duck can be.

Sicilian Duck with Olives and Anchovies: Anatra a Papparedda cu Ulivi

In Sicilian cuisine, ducks are somewhat rare, but the flavours of Anatra a Papparedda cu Ulivi, are bold and unexpected combinations. The word ulivi means olives in Sicilian, and in this dish, green olives and anchovies in the sauce make this dish truly distinctive. The whole duck is roasted first.

Sicilian Duck with green olives and anchovies; Anatra a Papparedda cu ulivi

Duck Ragù

For a  very special pasta dish a Duck Ragù (Ragout) is a recipe that is made with minced duck, the method and ingredients are like the recipe for a traditional bolognese. A Duck and Mushroom Ragù  gives the opportunity to enjoy portions of the duck (with bones if you wish) and/or use the ragù to dress the pasta.

Egg pasta is usually the choice of pasta for game meats, but any shape of pasta will be elevated to a supreme level with duck.

RIGATONI CON RAGU: ANATRA (Duck Ragout)

DUCK AND MUSHROOM RAGÙ

Duck Breast: Simple 

Duck breasts are one of the most affordable and versatile cuts of duck. Easy to prepare, they cook quickly and, with just a few ingredients, can be transformed into an impressive dish.

The beauty of duck breast lies in its simplicity – crispy skin and tender meat, with minimal effort.

DUCK BREAST, ALCOHOL and EMBELLISHMENTS

Leftovers: Transforming Duck into New Creations

I don’t let leftovers go to waste! they either get eaten as they are or get used in other recipies to enrich the taste of the new. In the post below, I share how to take leftover pan-fried duck breasts and turn them into a completely new dish. With other added ingredients to the cooked duck breast and a drizzle of parsley oil (or even labneh), you can create a refreshing duck salad that’s as delicious as it is resourceful.

LEFTOVERS: from Duck and Dried Sour Cherries to New Dishes

Camping, easy cooking

Duck breasts cooked very quickly and very enjoyable…. even when camping.

GLAM COOKING ON THE ROAD; Camping

Cooking Potatoes with duck fat

Below, duck breasts with cumquats and roast potatoes.

Patate in teccia, hail from Trieste. The potatoes are precooked and then smashed and recooked in olive oil, but of course cooking them in duck fat makes them very special.

PATATE as a contorno (Two recipes for ‘squashed’ potatoes, Patate in tecia)

Other links:

DELVING INTO EGG PASTA