TUNA PASTA AND THOUGHTS ON SUSTAINABLE TUNA

I prepared this sustainable Tuna Pasta recently using a carefully chosen piece of Yellowfin tuna, something I now purchase only occasionally as an environmentally conscious consumer. Tuna can be prepared quickly, eaten raw or cooked lightly, and I still enjoy it very much. In this post I share both the recipe and some thoughts about tuna and sustainability.

In Sicily, combinations of tuna, olives, parsley and tomato are very common, especially in coastal cooking where fresh fish is treated respectfully and simply  with common kitchen ingredients.

Tuna and Sicilian Coastal Culture

As someone with family in Sicily and who has visited the region many times, I am very aware of the historical and cultural significance of tuna fishing and consumption in Sicilian life.

In Sicily, Bluefin tuna has long been central to coastal culture and cuisine, particularly around the historic tonnare (tuna fisheries) of places such as Trapani and Favignana. Sicilians traditionally used every part of the fish, creating dishes that reflected both practicality and a deep maritime heritage.

Tuna fishing was once seasonal, communal and highly ritualised. The annual tuna harvest shaped local economies, food traditions and the rhythms of coastal life for generations.

Changing Attitudes to Tuna

I stopped purchasing Bluefin tuna several years ago. The issue of tuna ranching and sea pens also concerns me. Having lived in South Australia, I became familiar with this industry in Port Lincoln, where young wild tuna are captured and fattened in sea cages before sale.

There is now similar tuna penning in Sicily and other parts of the Mediterranean. These operations are not true full-cycle aquaculture because the fish are still taken from wild populations. Critics point to concerns about pressure on tuna stocks, the large quantities of feed required, pollution from sea cages and the ethics of confining large migratory fish.

This creates a striking contrast with Sicily’s older tuna traditions, which were once seasonal, local and closely connected to coastal communities and fishermen sold tuna in the streets.

bluefin tuna sold in the streets of the coastal towns of Sicily

Is Yellowfin Tuna More Sustainable?

I buy line-caught Yellowfin tuna rather than Bluefin, although sustainability is far more complex than labels such as “wild caught” or “dolphin safe” might suggest.

In some fisheries, pole-and-line or handline methods are considered more sustainable because they reduce bycatch and avoid some of the damaging practices associated with industrial fishing. However, Yellowfin stocks in several oceans are also under pressure due to growing global demand.

Ultimately, sustainability depends not only on how fish are caught, but also on stock health, quotas, fishery management and the scale of international consumption.

A Different Future for Aquaculture?

Land-based aquaculture can work well for certain species, particularly smaller fish and shellfish that adapt more easily to controlled environments. These systems can reduce pollution, limit escapes into the wild, and allow better control of water quality, disease and feeding practices.

While such systems are unlikely to replace traditional tuna fisheries, they offer a more sustainable direction for some forms of seafood production.

Here is how I cooked one slice of tuna recently to make a pasta sauce. I will not include precise amounts of ingredients because precise measurements are not necessary.  The pasta was for 2 people.

 Tuna Pasta with Green Olives, Chilli and Herbs

I cooked this simple tuna pasta recently using a fresh slice of tuna and a handful of ingredients I had at home. It is the kind of meal I enjoy making when I want something quick, light and full of Sicilian flavours. The tuna is cooked only briefly so that it remains tender, while the olives, herbs and chilli give the sauce brightness and depth. I added peas for extra nutrition.

the ingredients for the pasta dish with tuna

Ingredients

For 2 people

  • 1 slice fresh tuna
  • 2 green chillies
  • 2 spring onions
  • a small bunch of parsley
  • some basil leaves
  • 1 cup green olives, stoned
  • 1 cup of peas (I used frozen)
  • a little tomato passata
  • extra virgin olive oil
  • salt
  • pasta of your choice, I used linguine

Method

Cut the tuna into pieces or thin strips. Do not make the pieces too small because the tuna should still keep some texture once cooked.

Finely slice the spring onions and chillies. Roughly chop the parsley and basil. Slice the olives if they are large.

The herbs, spring onions and green chillies are sautéed

Heat olive oil in a frying pan and gently cook the spring onions, parsley and chillies until softened and fragrant.

The tuna is slightly sautéed

Add the pieces of tuna, sear lightly and remove from the pan.

Add the olives, basil and a little tomato passata. Cook so that the flavours combine without the sauce becoming too heavy.

The tuna is removed and all of the ingredients are cooked together

Add the peas. Continue to cook till the peas have cooked and the sauce looks to be the favoured consistency (not too thick, nor too thin).

Add the tuna and finish off the cooking for a very short time. Fresh tuna should remain moist and tender and is best not overcooked.

Meanwhile cook the pasta until al dente.

Toss the pasta through the sauce, Finish with a drizzle of good extra virgin olive oil.

Notes

  • Good quality olives make a significant difference.
  • Capers can also be added for a more Sicilian flavour.

TUNNU `A STIMPIRATA; TONNO ALLA STEMPERATA (Tuna with onions, vinegar, capers and green olives)

TONNO AL AGRO DOLCE; Sweet and sour tuna, Sicilian – ALBACORE TUNA

TONNO E PISELLI (Tuna and peas)

TONNO (Tuna, albacore)

 

SBS Italian Radio Recipes | Italian Food Podcasts with Marisa Raniolo Wilkins

SBS Italian Radio Recipes: Italian Food Interviews and Podcasts with Marisa Raniolo Wilkins

SBS Italian Radio has invited me on many occasions to share some of my favourite Italian recipes, regional food traditions and culinary stories with broadcaster Massimiliano Gugole who it the Audio and Language Content Producer at Special Broadcasting Service (SBS) Australia,

This page brings together those interviews so they are easy to find in one place.

If you speak Italian, you can listen to these conversations on the SBS Audio App  or if you click on the links provided below. Each episode generally runs for 10–14 minutes and explores not only recipes but also some of the history, traditions and regional food culture behind them.

One exception is Zuzzu: An Ancient Sicilian Pork Terrine That Uses Everything but the Oink, runs for approximately 30 minutes. This podcast forms part of The Ugly Ducklings of Italian Cuisine, a popular series on SBS with a number of interesting and noteworthy participants. Some of the presenters are not Italian speakers and the podcasts are in English.

These are the podcasts. Use the link to listen on SBS Italian Radio

L’Italia in cucina: puntarelle con pomodorini, aglio e acciughe

Italy in the Kitchen: Puntarelle with Cherry Tomatoes, Garlic and Anchovies
24 June 2026
Bunches of Puntarelle, a type of Cicoria/ Chicory. Also called Catalogna.

Best of 2025: la ricetta dei carciofi ripieni di Marisa Raniolo Wilkins

Best (recipe) of 2025: Marisa Raniolo Wilkins’ Stuffed Artichoke Recipe
20 January 2026

(rebroadcast from 2025)

Inverno, cosa comprano e cosa mangiano italiani e italiane d’Australia?

Winter: What Do Italians in Australia Buy and Eat?
22 July 2025
Purple cauliflower, Market in Syracuse

La dispensa estiva: i consigli di Valentina Vigni, Dan Pasquali e Marisa Raniolo Wilkins

The Summer Pantry: Advice from Valentina Vigni, Dan Pasquali and Marisa Raniolo Wilkins

11 December 2025

Smmer baby tomatoes
Sicilian Cassata: Marisa Raniolo Wilkins’ Recipe
24 December 2025
Cassata, covered with Marzipan and glace fruit  

Zuzzu: an ancient Sicilian pork terrine that uses everything but the oink

Zuzzu: An Ancient Sicilian Pork Terrine That Uses Everything but the Oink
(already published in English).
This podcast was the most popular in the series.
13 February 2024

This episode forms part of the SBS Italian Radio series The Ugly Ducklings of Italian Cuisine, celebrating traditional regional dishes that are less well known outside Italy.

SBS, the Ugly Ducklings of Italian Cuisine, a series of podcasts

Ricette di Natale 2024: la caponata catanese

Christmas Recipes 2024: Catania-Style Caponata
24 December 2024

 

La jota triestina, una ricetta perfetta per l’inverno

Triestine Jota: A Perfect Recipe for Winter
18 July 2023
Jota/ Iota a hearty thick soup from Trieste made with smoked pork, borlotti beans and sauerkraut
Read the Recipes in English

Many of these recipes have also been published in English here on All Things Sicilian and More, often with additional historical background, photographs and cooking notes.

Simply use the blog’s search function and search for SBS Italian Radio or search by recipe name or ingredient, for example:

  • Puntarelle
  • Stuffed Artichokes
  • Sicilian Cassata
  • The Ugly Ducklings of Italian Cuisine  (Zuzzu)
  • Jota

You’ll find several detailed recipes about the same ingredient, together with the stories, traditions and regional food culture that inspired each dish.

It is worth seeing the full range of photos of the process of making Zuzzu – Sicilian Pork Terrine:

Zuzzu:The Ugly Ducklings in Italian Cuisine (Scarrafoni in cucina)

 

 

CASSATA SICILIANA: SBS ITALIAN EASTER RECIPE

When I was asked to share an Easter recipe for SBS Italian Radio, I immediately chose cassata Siciliana — a dessert that truly represents Sicily, its history, flavours, and identity.

For the occasion, I prepared the recipe along with some notes in Italian to accompany the radio discussion, aiming to convey not just the steps, but also the cultural meaning behind this traditional dessert.

In this post, I have also included some photos of the cassata being made. These are not on the SBS website, but they help to show the process more clearly.

The remainder of the post is in Italian and I was interviewed by Massimiliano Gugole from SBS Radio Italian.

IN ITALIAN

Quando mi è stato chiesto di condividere una ricetta di Pasqua per SBS Italian Radio, ho scelto subito la cassata siciliana — un dolce che rappresenta bene la Sicilia sapori — la sua storia, i suoi sapori e la sua identità.

Per l’occasione ho preparato la ricetta e alcune note in italiano per accompagnare la conversazione in radio, cercando di trasmettere non solo i passaggi, ma anche il significato culturale di questo dolce tradizionale

In questo post ho aggiunto anche alcune foto della preparazione della cassata. Non sono presenti sul sito di SBS, ma aiutano a vedere meglio i passaggi.

****If you would like to listen to the interview and discussion in Italian on SBS Radio, here is the link:
90.avif

La cassata siciliana, nella ricetta di Marisa Raniolo Wilkins

https://www.sbs.com.au/language/italian/it/podcast-episode/la-cassata-siciliana-nella-ricetta-di-marisa-raniolo-wilkins/szz86479i 

Notes – Per parlare sulla radio

Cassata Siciliana — Tradizione e Gusto
  • La cassata siciliana è uno dei dolci più rappresentativi della Sicilia, soprattutto nel periodo di Pasqua. È un dolce ricco, scenografico, che racchiude storia, cultura e tradizione.
  • La cassata è un’opera culinaria che testimonia secoli di storia.  Dalle influenze fenicie, che introdussero le mandorle, all’apporto arabo, che portò zucchero, frutta secca, marzapane e agrumi, e al contributo spagnolo, che portò il pan di Spagna. I monsù, cuochi francesi al servizio delle famiglie aristocratiche siciliane, ne perfezionarono la presentazione, mentre le suore nei conventi custodirono e tramandarono le ricette tradizionali.
  • Alla base troviamo il pan di Spagna, soffice e leggermente inumidito con un liquore.
  • Il cuore della cassata è la ricotta, preferibilmente di pecora, lavorata con zucchero fino a diventare una crema liscia e delicata.’è un gesto semplice, ma molto significativo, che appartiene alla tradizione della cassata: la ricotta non si mescola soltanto — si passa al setaccio.
  • Alla ricotta si aggiungono piccoli pezzi di cioccolato fondente, pistacchi e scorze di agrumi canditi.
  • Il dolce viene poi assemblato in uno stampo: il pan di Spagna riveste base e lati, si riempie con la crema di ricotta, si chiude e si lascia riposare in frigorifero per una notte.
  • Il giorno dopo si sforma e si ricopre con la pasta reale/il marzapane, spesso di colore verde chiaro, e si decora con frutta candita.
  • La cassata, in tutte le sue varianti, `e un emblema di celebrazione. Le pasticcerie siciliane sono rinomate per la loro maestria nella preparazione e decorazione delle cassate. 
Cassata Siciliana — Ricetta Tradizionale
Consigli:

La cassata si prepara al meglio in due giorni. Si assembla il dolce il giorno prima e si lascia riposare in frigorifero per tutta la notte affinché si compatti. Anche il pan di Spagna beneficia di essere preparato in anticipo.

Note sugli Ingredienti

Ricotta

Usare ricotta soda e ben scolata, preferibilmente di pecora, naturalmente più dolce e saporita.

Spesso viene venduta in forme intere e tagliata al momento — questa è la migliore.

Evitare la ricotta confezionata in vaschetta, generalmente troppo acquosa e poco saporita. Se non avete alternative, è consigliabile scolarla per tutta la notte.

Per un ripieno più ricco, si può aggiungere un po’ di panna densa durante la lavorazione.

Frutta Candita

La frutta candita è conservata in uno sciroppo zuccherino che ne mantiene la morbidezza e ne intensifica il sapore. (Si chiama anche glacé)

Se possibile, utilizzare scorze di agrumi canditi di buona qualità oppure fette intere di arancia candita, invece della comune frutta candita mista.

Il cedro ha un ruolo importante nella pasticceria siciliana. Coltivato in Sicilia e in Calabria, si riconosce per la buccia spessa, dal verde al giallo.

Liquore

Usare secondo il proprio gusto. Alcune opzioni:

  • Liquori all’arancia: Cointreau, Grand Marnier
  • Liquore al mandarino: Mandarine Napoléon
  • Altri: Marsala dolce, Amaretto, Strega, Maraschino
Le foto: Come preparare la cassata

Ci sono tre parti da preparare:

  • Il pan di Spagna
  • Il marzapane
  • Il ripeno

 

Il pan di Spagna
Il ripieno – ricotta,  zucchero, cioccolato , pistacchi, scorze d’agrumi candite
Il pan di Spagna tagliato in quattro strati. Il marzapane steso tra due pellicole
Il marzapane, di due colori – naturale e verde. La confettura per attaccare il pan di Spagna

PREPARAZIONE DELLO STAMPO

Lo stampo foderato, il pan di Spagna -uno stato di sotto, e due strati per rivestire i lati. L’ultimo strato di sopra per coprire il ripieno.
L’ultimo strato di pan di Spagna per coprire il ripieno
Con un peso di sopra
La cassata sformata è ricoperta da una glassa di marzapane. La confettura viene utilizzata per facilitare l’adesione del marzapane al pan di Spagna
Quadretti del marzapane verde per l’applicazione sui lati
Quasi!
Eccola!

**Sul blog All Things Sicilian And More ci sono parecchi post della Cassata con altre foto, ma scritte in Inglese.

EASTER IN SICILY: Faith, Spring, History and Cassata

CASSATA ( Post no. 2) Calls for a celebration!!!

SICILIAN CASSATA and MARZIPAN AT EASTER (Food and Culture in Sicily, La Trobe University)

SICILIAN CASSATA and some Background (perfect for an Australian Christmas)

RICETTA PER LA CASSATA SICILIANA ( SBS )

Ingredienti

Come la maggior parte delle ricette italiane, le quantità degli ingredienti non contano davvero. I cuochi si affidano al gusto, all’occhio e al tatto.

Ripieno di Ricotta

  • 700 g – 800g ricotta fresca (preferibilmente di pecora)
  • 120 g zucchero semolato
  • 60–100 g cioccolato fondente, tritato
  • 100 g pistacchi, tritati
  • 60–100 g scorze di agrumi canditi (arancia, limone, cedro)
  • ¼ cucchiaino vaniglia (o pasta di vaniglia)
  • ¼ cucchiaino cannella

Per Assemblare

  • Circa 450 g pan di Spagna, fatto in casa (questo il peso quando acquistato nei negozi commerciali
  • Pasta reale (marzapane) per copertura
  • Frutta candita per decorare
  • ½ tazza (o più) di confettura di albicocche
  • ½–¾ tazza di liquore (o più, a piacere)

Pan di Spagna

Preparare 1–3 giorni prima.

Ingredienti

  • 5 uova
  • 120 g zucchero
  • 100 g farina setacciata
  • Scorza di limone e/o vaniglia
  • Burro per lo stampo

Procedimento

  1. Montare i tuorli con lo zucchero fino a ottenere un composto chiaro e cremoso.
  2. Montare gli albumi a neve ferma.
  3. Incorporare delicatamente gli albumi al composto di tuorli.
  4. Unire la farina setacciata e gli aromi.
  5. Versare in uno stampo imburrato e cuocere a forno moderato per circa 40 minuti, fino a doratura.
  6. Lasciare raffreddare completamente prima di tagliare.

Ripieno di Ricotta

  1. Lavorare la ricotta con lo zucchero fino a ottenere una crema liscia. (In alternativa, sciogliere lo zucchero in poca acqua per ottenere uno sciroppo, lasciarlo raffreddare e poi unirlo alla ricotta
  2. Aggiungere:
    • vaniglia
    • cannella
    • un goccio di liquore (facoltativo)
  3. Incorporare:
    • cioccolato
    • pistacchi
    • frutta candita

Mescolare delicatamente.

Pasta Reale (Marzapane)

Ingredienti

  • 500 g mandorle pelate e macinate finemente
  • 300 g zucchero a velo
  • 1 albume
  • Vaniglia q.b.
  • Un pizzico di sale
  • Qualche goccia di colorante verde

Procedimento

  1. Montare leggermente l’albume con il sale fino a renderlo spumoso.
  2. Aggiungere la vaniglia.
  3. Incorporare gradualmente mandorle e zucchero, impastando fino a ottenere un composto liscio ed elastico.
  4. Regolare la consistenza:
    • aggiungere mandorle o zucchero se troppo morbido
    • aggiungere poca acqua se troppo duro
  5. Avvolgere nella pellicola e conservare in frigorifero.

Quando sarete pronti per coprire la cassata:

Facoltativo:

Dividere in due parti e colorarne una di verde, oppure è decorato a larghe strisce verdi e del colore naturale del marzapane.

Stendere il marzapane tra due fogli di carta da forno.

Preparazione dello Stampo

  • Foderare uno stampo rotondo (da 25–30 cm) con pellicola o alluminio.
  • Tagliare il pan di Spagna in 4 strati.
  • Rivestire anche i lati dello stampo con le fette di pan di Spagna, utilizzando confettura se necessario per fissarle.

Assemblaggio della Cassata

  1. Disporre uno strato sul fondo e spennellare leggermente con confettura di albicocche.
  2. Inumidire con un po’ di liquore.
  3. Riempire lo stampo con il composto di ricotta e livellare.
  4. Coprire con l’ultimo strato di pan di Spagna.
  5. Inumidire leggermente con liquore.
  6. Coprire e porre un leggero peso sopra.

Mettere in frigorifero per tutta la notte.

Copertura e Decorazione

(Da fare il giorno del servizio)

  1. Sformare la cassata.
  2. Spalmare uno strato sottile di confettura di albicocche.
  3. Coprire con la pasta reale stesa.
  4. Decorare con frutta candita.

Mantenere in frigorifero fino al momento dell’uso.

PALERMO, SICILY AND PEELING BACK THE LAYERS

Palermo is often described as chaotic, beautiful and a contradictory city — but to understand it properly, you have to peel it back, layer by layer because Sicily’s capital is not a city that reveals itself at first glance.

Like the island itself, Palermo rewards return visits, slow observation and curiosity. This process for discovering Palermo is a concept I explored many years ago in a travel competition article, Palermo and Sicily… Peeling back the onion. 

Palermo’s strength lies in its depth. Each visit reveals a new layer—political, architectural, culinary or personal.

Palermo’s impressive Cathedral.

This post summarises some of Palermo’s cultural and historic attractions and aims to inspire travel to this impressive city.

Hand painted Sicilian horse cart.

I was particularly impressed by the grand historic buildings and luxurious Liberty-style villas and apartments, especially on the outskirts of Palermo. I was also struck by the contrast of accommodation often from street to street. However, do not be deceived by the exterior of some buildings. For instance, I once stayed in an apartment in the centre of Palermo that was unremarkable on the outside but had been tastefully renovated on the inside with modern conveniences, fresco-painted ceilings and antique furniture. The couple who owned it lived in a separate part of the large apartment.

Some residential housing.

Reading the post on Palermo and Sicily has prompted me to revisit the city. Reviewing my photographs has reinforced this desire.

Palermo – Teatro Massimo

Palermo as a capital, not a curiosity

For centuries, Palermo was not a provincial outpost but a Mediterranean capital. Under Roger II of Sicily, it became the seat of power of the Norman Kingdom of Sicily — governed from the Palazzo dei Normanni.

Palermo- Palazzo dei Normanni.

This was a court where Arab administrators, Greek scholars and Latin clergy worked side by side, leaving behind an architectural and cultural legacy unlike anywhere else in Europe

Where cultures overlap

The layered nature of Palermo is visible everywhere. Byzantine mosaics glow above Islamic wooden ceilings in the Cappella Palatina. Norman churches wear Arab domes. Baroque façades frame medieval streets.

Nothing here is erased. Everything is added.

This is why Palermo feels so different from cities that present history in neat, separated chapters.

Palermo – The Church of San Cataldo, an example of the wonderful Arabian-Norman architecture with its characteristic red domes is situated next to Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio (also called La Martorana) is from the mid 12th century.
Markets as living archaeology

To understand Palermo at street level, you go to the markets.

In Ballarò Market and La Vucciria, the city’s Arab past survives not in monuments but in sound, rhythm and ritual.

Traders shout in Sicilian dialect. Fish is displayed under red awnings. Scents of fried street food and roasted peppers are in the air.

It is much more than nostalgia — it’s continuity.

Food as a record of history

Palermo’s food tells the same layered story.

The “traditional dishes” are edible evidence of Arab, Norman and Mediterranean exchanges. Sweet meets savoury. Fish replaces meat. Breadcrumbs stand in for cheese.

Antica Focacceria San Francesco is a historic eatery located in the heart of the city, opposite the church of St Francis of Assisi. It offers some of Sicily’s most iconic, authentic Palermo street food  in a historic setting.

Even today, contemporary chefs reinterpret these dishes rather than abandon them, another example of Palermo adding layers rather than stripping them away. This trend is also evident among younger Sicilians who, like the rest of us, have greater access to media and modern and international cuisine.

Escaping the centre, without leaving the city

Peeling back another layer means leaving the historic quarters without leaving Palermo.

Liberty-style villas, gardens like Villa Giulia, or a bus ride to Mondello or Monreale reveal a softer, lighter side of the city — still unmistakably Sicilian, still deeply connected to food, leisure and the sea.

Close to Palermo is Mondello.

**For a deeper exploration of Palermo and Sicily through memory, history and return visits, you can read my longer composition:

Palermo and Sicily … peeling the onion

Related:

PANELLE, PALERMO STREET FOOD-Chick pea fritters and the Antica Focacceria San Francesco

PALERMO -18 Secrets of Sicily Revealed by Top Travel Bloggers

THE CHARLESTON Restaurant in Mondello (near Palermo)

SICILIAN MARKETS; use of every part of the animal

SFINCIONE DI PALERMO (A pizza/focaccia type pie)

CECI (CHICKPEAS) IN SICILIA: Cucina Povera

Chickpeas — ceci, or cìciri in Sicilian — have been part of Sicily’s cucina povera’s cooking for centuries. Quiet, sustaining, and deeply rooted in the land, they belong to a cuisine of continuity rather than elaborate dishes.

Ancient Roots

Archaeological and botanical evidence places chickpeas among the earliest cultivated legumes of the eastern Mediterranean. When the Greeks settled Sicily from the 8th century BCE, they embedded ceci into an agricultural pattern based on cereals, legumes, olive oil, and wild greens — a pattern still visible in Sicily’s most subtle dishes.

During the Arab period (9th–11th centuries), chickpeas became even more central. Improved irrigation, crop rotation, and dry-farming techniques made legumes reliable in Sicily’s arid interior. Just as important was a shared culinary philosophy: slow cooking, few aromatics, and respect for the ingredient’s natural flavour and nourishment.

By the Middle Ages, ceci were firmly rooted in inland rural diets, where wheat and legumes formed the backbone of daily sustenance.

In later medieval history, ceci (chickpeas) took on an unexpectedly political role in Sicily. On Easter Monday, 30 March 1282, as crowds gathered in Palermo for Vespers, long-standing resentment against the rule of Charles I of Anjou erupted into open rebellion. According to tradition, the French were identified by their inability to pronounce the Sicilian word for chickpeas without a lisp. What began as a small incident became the spark for the Sicilian Vespers uprising, turning a humble legume into a linguistic marker of resistance and identity.

A Food of Continuity, Not A SHOWPIECE

Sicilian chickpea dishes are understated by design. They reflect cucina povera — not deprivation, but shaped by climate, season, and scarcity. Chickpeas often replaced meat, providing sustenance for households for several days.

On 13 December, the feast of Santa Lucia, chickpeas take on special meaning in Sicily, particularly in Palermo. According to tradition, during a medieval famine a ship carrying grain and chickpeas arrived in the port after prayers to the saint. Too hungry to wait for flour to be milled, people boiled the grains and legumes and ate them whole.

In gratitude, Palermitans vowed to avoid flour on Santa Lucia’s day. Chickpeas — eaten simply or included in cuccìa (dish traditionally made with boiled wheat berries, often mixed with chickpeas). It remain a tradition, a symbol of survival, humility, and collective memory rather than celebration.

Santa Christina Cathedral Palermo.

Growing and Harvesting

In Sicily, chickpeas are usually sown in late winter or spring and harvested in summer. The plants are left until the pods dry on the stalk, ensuring a dependable winter staple.

Before drying, some chickpeas were eaten fresh — a fleeting seasonal pleasure.

A Note on Fresh (Green) Chickpeas — Ceci Freschi

Before drying, chickpeas were sometimes eaten fresh. Harvested in late spring or early summer, they are pale green, faintly sweet, and closer to fresh peas in texture. Their shelf life is short — less than a week — and they are best cooked simply, as for ceci in umido (recipe below), or eaten straight from the pod while harvesting in the fields.

A fresh chickpea( ceci) plant with pods containing green chickpeas.

Their brief season reflects an agricultural rhythm that shaped Sicilian cooking for centuries: some foods were enjoyed only when the land allowed it.

How Chickpeas Are Traditionally Eaten in Sicily

1. Ceci con Erbe Spontanee (Chickpeas with Wild Greens)

A classic countryside pairing. Chickpeas cook gently while seasonal greens are added toward the end: Wild fennel, Wild Chicory, Dandelion, Borage.

Wild fennel sold in bunches.

Finished simply with olive oil — sometimes a squeeze of lemon.

2. Minestra di Ceci (Chickpea Soup)

Common in mountainous areas, monasteries, and farming households. These soups were cooked in large quantities and eaten over several days — practical, sustaining, and deeply comforting. Chickpeas simmer in their broth and are often poured over bread placed directly in the bowl. Sometimes broken spaghetti is added. Always finished with olive oil and rather than chilli, black ground black pepper.

3. Panelle

Palermo’s iconic street food: chickpea flour cooked with water and salt, spread into thin sheets, cut into small rectangles or squares, and fried until crisp. Simple, addictive, and unmistakably Sicilian.

4. Ceci in Umido (Stewed Chickpeas)

A dish shaped by restraint. Tomato — a later arrival — is used sparingly or omitted altogether inland. Onion softens slowly in olive oil, garlic perfumes briefly, and chickpeas do most of the work.

RECIPES

I research traditional Sicilian sources, and the most reliable versions of recipes I have found in my books is from Pino Correnti’s Il Libro d’Oro della Cucina e dei Vini di Sicilia. As with many Italian recipes, they are simple and written without measurements.

These dishes belong to an older culinary world, predating tomatoes. They are the kind of sustaining soups that fed farmers, monks, and households through winter.

I include two traditional recipes detailed, more modern Sicilian recipes for chickpeas that are more suited to contemporary cooks:

* Ceci in Umido (Sicilian Stewed Chickpeas)

* Minestra di Ceci (Sicilian Chickpea Soup)

 

Ciciri ca Pasta a Catanisa
Chickpeas with Pasta, Catania Style

An eastern Sicilian variation, even simpler, is pasta with chickpeas alla catanese. The chickpeas are cooked together with onion and, in the same cooking water, broken spaghetti is added and boiled. The dish is dressed simply with raw olive oil and freshly ground black pepper or chilli.

Ciciri ca Pasta Saccense
Chickpeas with Pasta from Sciacca

The version from the area between Sciacca and Agrigento is simpler. It uses cooked chickpeas mixed with about half a kilo of wild fennel, two cloves of garlic, and tagghiarini made fresh — small lasagne-style strips of dough rolled out by hand on the board just before cooking.

Facade of a building in Sciacca.

*Ceci in Umido (Sicilian Stewed Chickpeas)

A humble but deeply satisfying dish, served as a light main or contorno.

Ingredients (serves 4)

  • 300 g dried chickpeas
  • 1 small onion, finely chopped
  • 1–2 cloves garlic, lightly crushed
  • 3–4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil (plus more to finish)
  • 2 tbsp tomato passata or 1 tbsp tomato paste diluted with water
  • 1 bay leaf or a small sprig of oregano
  • Salt and black pepper
  • Water or light vegetable broth or stock

Method

Soak chickpeas overnight. Drain and rinse.

Cover the chickpeas in fresh water and simmer until tender (40–50minutes). Reserve liquid.

Cook onion slowly in olive oil until soft, never coloured.

Add garlic briefly, then tomato and aromatics. Cook gently.

Add chickpeas with enough liquid to cover. Simmer until the sauce thickens naturally.

Finish with black pepper and a drizzle of extra virgin, fragrant olive oil.

Regional notes

  • In central Sicily (Enna, Caltanissetta), tomato is often omitted altogether.
  • It is eaten with bread — bread here is the accompaniment.
  • This is a dish that reflects Arab influence not through spice, but through method: slow cooking, minimal intervention, and respect for the legume itself.
*Minestra di Ceci (Sicilian Chickpea Soup)

Cucina povera at its purest — chickpeas, aromatics, olive oil, and patience.

Ingredients (serves 4)

  • 300 g dried chickpeas
  • 1 small onion, finely chopped
  • 1 carrot, finely diced
  • 1 celery stalk, finely diced
  • 2 cloves garlic
  • 3–4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil (plus more to finish)
  • 1 bay leaf or wild fennel stems
  • Salt and black pepper

Optional: potato cubes or greens. In Melbourne, I am unable to purchase wild greens but can buy seasonal vegetables such as chicory, beets/chard and spinach.

Method

Soak chickpeas overnight. Drain and rinse.

Cover the chickpeas in fresh water and simmer until tender (40–50minutes).

Reserve liquid.

Gently cook onion, carrot, and celery in olive oil until soft. Add garlic briefly, then chickpeas and liquid.

Simmer uncovered 15-20 mins, crushing a few chickpeas to thicken.

Add potatoes or greens if using.

Rest, season, and finish with raw olive oil.

Present the soup with: With crusty bread or garlic-rubbed toast or topped with wild fennel fronds

The soup is better the next day — flavours deepen with time.

Chickpeas (ceci),I almost always have jars in my freezer.

OTHER RECIPES

CHICKPEAS and simple food

MUSSELS WITH CHICKPEAS

PANELLE, PALERMO STREET FOOD-Chick pea fritters and the Antica Focacceria San Francesco

CHICKPEAS SOUP WITH WILD FENNEL (Minestra di ceci con finocchio, erba selvatica)

VESPERS and a celebration of chickpeas in BACCALÀ CON CECI alla fiorentina (Salt Cod with Chickpeas as cooked in Florence)

PASTA con cavolofiore, salsicce di maiale e ceci (pasta with cauliflower, pork sausages and chickpeas)

PASTA CON LE SARDE, RICETTA SEMPLICE

La Pasta con le Sarde è uno dei piatti più iconici della Sicilia: una ricetta semplice ma profondamente espressiva, che unisce le sarde al finocchio e a ingredienti che raccontano la storia lunga e stratificata dell’isola.

****Sul mio blog ci sono numerose versioni della Pasta con le Sarde, scritte nel corso di molti anni, accompagnate da tante fotografie e varianti. Tuttavia, ho creato questa versione più semplice per chi preferisce un metodo di preparazione più rapido, (forse preferito in Australia e altri in diverse parti nel mondo), soprattutto nel periodo natalizio, spesso molto intenso. Avevo preparato questa ricetta anche per una sessione radiofonica su SBS Italian, ma non c’è stato tempo per parlarne (come sempre, preparo troppo!).

Le sarde sono abbondanti nei mari siciliani, il finocchietto selvatico cresce spontaneamente quando è di stagione, e sapori come pinoli, uvetta e zafferano parlano chiaramente dell’influenza araba che ha segnato profondamente la cucina siciliana. Il tocco finale, la muddica atturrata – pangrattato tostato – sostituisce il formaggio ed è inconfondibilmente siciliano.

Molto probabilmente prenderò in considerazione la Pasta con le Sarde anche per il periodo delle feste natalizie.

Un piatto radicato nella tradizione siciliana

Questo è un piatto nato dalla necessità e dall’ingegno. In Sicilia la pasta si consuma quasi ogni giorno, e la pasta con le sarde è da sempre un modo per trasformare ingredienti umili e facilmente reperibili in qualcosa di memorabile.

Quando il finocchietto selvatico non è disponibile, quello coltivato funziona molto bene. Io utilizzo il bulbo, le barbe e talvolta una piccola quantità di semi di finocchio per richiamare l’aroma della pianta selvatica. Il finocchietto selvatico è stagionale e in Sicilia viene venduto a mazzi nei mercati. I siciliani rispettano la

Pasta con le Sarde,

stagionalità del finocchietto e tradizionalmente cucinano la Pasta con le Sarde solo nel periodo giusto.

Il bucatino è il formato di pasta che preferisco, ma anche gli spaghetti sono perfettamente adatti.

Pasta con Sarde

Bucatini con le Sarde

INGREDIENTI

  • 500 g di bucatini (formato tradizionale preferito)
  • 700 g di sarde fresche, pulite e sfilettate
  • 200 g di finocchietto selvatico
    (oppure 2 grossi finocchi con le barbe + 1 cucchiaino di semi di finocchio)
  • Circa ¾ di tazza di olio extravergine d’oliva
  • 2 cipolle, affettate finemente
  • 4 filetti di acciuga
  • 1 tazza di pinoli
  • 1 tazza di mandorle tostate, grossolanamente tritate (facoltative)
  • ¾ di tazza di uvetta
  • ½–1 cucchiaino di zafferano
  • Sale e pepe nero

Muddica atturrata:

  • 4–5 cucchiai di pangrattato, tostato in padella con poco olio extravergine.
    Mi piace aggiungere un pizzico di zucchero e cannella durante la tostatura, e un po’ di scorza di limone finemente grattugiata.

METODO (VERSIONE SEMPLICE)

  1. CUOCERE IL FINOCCHIO

Lessare il finocchietto selvatico in acqua salata per 10–15 minuti.
Conservare l’acqua di cottura, profumata e verde, per cuocere la pasta.
Scolare, strizzare bene e tritare finemente.

Se si usa il finocchio coltivato:
Tagliare il bulbo in quarti e lessarlo insieme ai semi di finocchio. Tenere da parte le barbe per dopo. Se presenti, bollire anche i gambi per aromatizzare l’acqua. Eliminare gambi e semi, scolare, tritare il finocchio e conservare l’acqua per la pasta.

  1. PREPARARE IL CONDIMENTO

In una padella capiente, cuocere dolcemente le cipolle nell’olio fino a renderle morbide e dorate.

Aggiungere i filetti di acciuga e mescolare finché si sciolgono, quindi unire pinoli, uvetta e mandorle (se utilizzate).

Aggiungere circa due terzi delle sarde, tritate grossolanamente, salare e pepare, e incorporare alcune barbe di finocchio (o un po’ del finocchio tritato).
Cuocere dolcemente per 5–10 minuti.

Unire il finocchio cotto e lo zafferano sciolto in poca acqua tiepida.

  1. CUOCERE LA PASTA

Cuocere i bucatini nell’acqua di cottura del finocchio fino a quando sono al dente.
Scolare bene.

  1. CUOCERE LE SARDE RIMANENTI

In una padella a parte, friggere leggermente i filetti di sarda rimasti.
Tenere da parte per la fase finale.

  1. ASSEMBLARE IL PIATTO

Unire la pasta al condimento di sarde e mescolare delicatamente.
Lasciare riposare per 5–10 minuti affinché i sapori si amalgamino.

Incorporare con delicatezza i filetti di sarda interi.
Servire con abbondante muddica atturrata.

In questa versione della Pasta con le Sarde non ho sbollentato le mandorle. Non sempre elimino la pellicina della frutta secca né la tosto.

  1. VERSIONE AL FORNO (FACOLTATIVA)

Ungere una pirofila e spolverarla con pangrattato tostato.
Disporre a strati la pasta e il condimento, inserendo qualche filetto di sarda intero tra uno strato e l’altro.

Completare con pangrattato, un filo d’olio e, a piacere, un pizzico di zucchero e cannella.

Cuocere in forno a 200°C per circa 10 minuti, fino a ottenere una leggera crosticina.

A TASTE OF PALERMO: Pasta con le Sarde

PASTA CON LE SARDE (SARDINES)

PASTA CON LE SARDE, Iconic Sicilian made easy

WILD FENNEL and photos

Recipe in my book, Sicilian Seafood Cooking

PASTA CON LE SARDE, an iconic Sicilian recipe from Palermo. Cooked at Slow Food Festival Melbourne

PASTA CON LE SARDE (Pasta with sardines, from Palermo, made with fennel, pine nuts and currants)

PASTA CON SARDE : the baked version, Palermo, Sicily

MY FAMILY FEAST SBS ONE, my recipes have been selected

WILD FENNEL and photos

PESCE CRUDO ALLA SICILIANA WITH CITRUS AND AROMATICS

Pesce Crudo alla Siciliana is one of the purest expressions of Sicilian seafood and it is: thinly sliced fish, lightly marinated in citrus, and finished with the fresh, aromatic flavours of the island.

In Sicily, raw fish is treated with great respect. A good dish of pesce crudo always begins with fish of extraordinary quality — impeccably fresh, carefully cleaned, and sliced as finely as a carpaccio. The preparation is simple, but the result is vibrant, elegant, and deeply connected to place.

I will definitely Make a Pesce Crudo over the upcoming Festive season.

What Is Pesce Crudo alla Siciliana?

Today, pesce crudo can be prepared with many types of fish and seafood. Delicate white fish fillets, sea urchins, calamari, octopus, prawns (especially red prawns), and scampi are all common. Sardines and anchovies, usually filleted rather than served whole, are also much loved.

What makes the dish unmistakably Sicilian is the choice of garnishes. These echo the island’s landscape and aromas: citrus juice and zest (especially blood orange), capers, olives, salted anchovies, fresh herbs such as mint, oregano, basil, or wild fennel, and often a touch of chilli. Almonds or pistachios add texture, while paper-thin slices of fruit or vegetables — strawberry, peach, vanilla persimmon, cucumber, fennel — Be inventive, bring colour and freshness to the plate.

Choosing the Right Fish in Melbourne

When preparing pesce crudo outside Sicily, freshness and sustainability are essential.

Below is some fish that is better than others when it comes to respect sustainability. Tips for Choosing Sustainable Seafood in Australia

  •  Check the species and fishery region — sustainability can differ significantly by area and stock. GoodFish

  • Look for independent certification labels like the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) for wild seafood. Australia & New Zealand

  • Ask how the fish was caught — line and pole methods generally have lower bycatch and habitat impact than longlines or trawls.

  • Use the GoodFish guide/app for real-time traffic-light ratings of local species

If using tuna, choose yellowfin tuna, ideally line-caught.
some fish that is better than others  –  options for raw preparations in Australia include:

  • Snapper

  • Flathead tails

  • Barramundi

  • Farmed kingfish from South Australia

  • Salmon (sourced from New Zealand)

Always buy from a trusted fishmonger and explain that the fish will be eaten raw.

Thinly Sliced Fish Marinated in Lemon with Sicilian Flavours
Ingredients (serves 2–4)
  • 250–300 g very fresh fish fillets, sliced paper-thin

  • Juice of 2 lemons

  • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

  • Extra virgin olive oil

  • A handful of capers, rinsed

  • Green or black olives, chopped

  • Finely grated zest of blood orange or lemon

  • Fresh herbs: mint, oregano, basil, or wild fennel

  • Fresh chilli, finely sliced (optional)

  • Roughly chopped almonds or pistachios

  • Very thin slices of fruit or vegetables (fennel, cucumber, strawberry, or prickly pear)

Method

Prepare the fish

Arrange the fish slices in a single layer on a serving plate. Lightly season with salt.

Marinate with lemon

Pour over enough lemon juice to just cover the fish. Cover and refrigerate for 10–15 minutes — just long enough for the citrus to lightly “cook” the surface.

Drain and season

Remove and discard the marinade. Dress the fish with extra virgin olive oil, black pepper, and citrus zest.

Add Sicilian flavours

Scatter over the capers, olives, chopped herbs, chilli (if using), and almonds or pistachios.

Finish with fruit or vegetables

Decorate with wafer-thin slices of fennel, cucumber, strawberry, or prickly pear for a fresh, colourful touch.

Serve immediately

This dish should remain bright, light, and impeccably fresh.

Pesce crudo as in a Trattoria in Mondello

GREAT BRITISH CHEFS GREAT ITALIAN CHEFS WEBSITE

** Some time ago I was asked to write three articles about Sicily for Great British Chefs/ Great Italian Chefs Website, one was about PESCE CRUDO

Read the complete article: Pesce crudo: Sicily’s love for raw fish

Photo that accompanies article in Great Italian Chef’s website
The other two articles:

Read the complete article: Culture clash: how North Africa changed Sicily forever

Read the complete article: Sicilian arancini: a complete guide

GREAT BRITISH CHEFS, GREAT ITALIAN CHEFS, Feature articles by Marisa Raniolo Wilkins

Other recipes on my blog about sustainable fish :

Raw fish:

PESCE CRUDO, raw fish dishes in Sicily

SARDINE, CRUDE E CONDITE (Sardines; raw and marinaded)

Photo from Sicilian Seafood Cooking. Food stylist Fiona Rigg, photogapher Graeme Gilles.

Sustainability

PASTA CON LE SARDE, an iconic Sicilian recipe from Palermo. Cooked at Slow Food Festival Melbourne

SUSTAINABLE SHELLFISH: Choices Shape the Sea’s Future

THE HUMBLE SARDINE, A SUSTAINABLE CHOICE

SHARKS IN PERIL. Recipe: Pesce in Pastella; fish in batter

ADELAIDE CENTRAL MARKET AT FAIR SEAFOOD

FAIR SEAFOOD, Adelaide Central Market

Soused fish:

PISCI ALL’ AGGHIATA – PESCE ALL’AGLIATA (Soused fish with vinegar, garlic and bay)

MARINADED FISH and a recipe for PESCE IN SAOR

CHEAT FOOD FOR LAUNCH OF SICILIAN SEAFOOD COOKING AT COASIT AND READINGS: Marinaded white anchovies AND Olive Schacciate made with commercially prepared olives


SBS Italian Radio – Stuffed artichokes & photos

When Massimiliano Gugole from SBS Italian Radio invited me to share a recipe on the morning show, I didn’t have to think twice—I chose stuffed artichokes. They’re my favourite way to prepare this elegant and flavoursome vegetable, and with the first spring artichokes just arriving at the Queen Victoria Market, the timing couldn’t have been better.

Over the years I’ve experimented with all sorts of fillings – minced meat (like mixture for polpette), ground almonds with ricotta, pan-fried breadcrumbs with egg, lemon zest and pine nuts, anchovies with black olives,  but I always come back to my favourite mix: breadcrumbs, parsley, a touch of garlic, grated parmesan (if I am trying to emulate Northern Italy) or pecorino (as in Southern Italy), and good olive oil. The mixture is gently tucked into the centres before the artichokes are simmered in stock, white wine, and bay leaves.

I usually serve them as a main, with vegetables cooked in the same pot. Because the artichokes need to stand upright (their stems trimmed at the base), I often nestle potatoes around them – they hold everything in place and soak up some of that exquisite, unique flavour.

potatoes used to hold artichokes upright

Whole potatoes can be added simultaneously with the artichokes, and  other spring vegetables such as peas and broad beans can be added approximately 15 minutes before the artichokes are cooked. Asparagus also makes a welcome addition and will need less cooking.  Additionally, I enjoy poaching eggs in the stock, adding protein for a better balanced meal.

I also ensure that good bread is placed at the table to soak up any remaining rich cooking juices. A spoon doesn’t go astray with friends either, although this does not follow Italian etiquette.

In this post I will translate the Italian podcast but also include photos of the preparation of the seven artichokes I cooked  for friends in my largest fish kettle a couple of weeks ago.

The Translated Podcast

“All Italians know how to cook artichokes,” says Marisa Raniolo Wilkins. But if you need some inspiration, here is a traditional, tasty, seasonal recipe, along with a few valuable tips for an excellent result.

“My favourite way to cook artichokes is the simple method my mother always used,” says Marisa Raniolo Wilkins, author of the blog All Things Sicilian And More.

“My maternal grandmother Maria (originally from Catania but who lived in Trieste for several years) also cooked them this way,” Marisa told SBS Italian, recalling how her grandmother used the same mixture of breadcrumbs, parsley, garlic, grated cheese, and a drizzle of olive oil to stuff her sardines, tomatoes, and artichokes.

“I like to serve artichokes as a main dish; they’re too fiddly to eat as a side,” she says. Listen to the recipe from the author of All Things Sicilian And More.

Ingredients (serves 6)
• 6 artichokes
• 100 g (1 cup) dry fresh breadcrumbs (made from good-quality bread, 1–2 days old, crust removed, finely chopped)
• 2 tablespoons chopped parsley
• 2 tablespoons grated cheese (Parmesan is fine, but in Sicily, pecorino is more common)
• A drizzle of extra virgin olive oil
• 4 cups stock (vegetable or chicken, stock cube is fine)
• 1 cup white wine
• About 1 cup extra virgin olive oil
• A few bay leaves

Marisa Raniolo recommends placing the artichokes in acidulated water as you prepare them — add the juice of a lemon to a bowl of water.

Preparation
Choose and clean the artichokes carefully. Cut off the stems so the base is flat — they need to stand upright in the pot, which should be the right size so the artichokes fit snugly and stay upright.

Peel the tough skin from the stems, cut about 1 cm from the tips of the artichokes, and remove the tougher outer leaves. Check for the choke in the centre, which is more common in mature artichokes.Choke is fieno/barba in Italian and hay and beard in English; one has to love the Italian language!

Drain the artichokes from the acidulated water. With your fingers, gently open the leaves, especially in the centre. Sprinkle a little salt, pepper, and a drizzle of olive oil between the leaves.

Mix the stuffing ingredients together and fill each artichoke.

“In Australia, artichokes are still considered exotic and perhaps difficult to prepare. But once you know how to clean them, they’re simple to cook,” says Marisa.

Place the artichokes upright in a pot. Put the stems between the artichokes and drizzle with more extra virgin olive oil.

I often like to press pine nuts into the stuffing.

Add the stock or water to about 2 cm below the top of the artichokes. Pour in the wine, add the bay leaves, and the rest of the oil.

Cover with a lid and cook slowly for about an hour.

You can also add peas, broad beans, and/or potatoes.

“I often add potatoes to help keep the artichokes standing,  and they’re very good,” Marisa explains. “Potatoes can be added straight away, while peas and broad beans should go in about 15 minutes before the artichokes are done.”

***Link: SBS PODCAST AND RECIPE

Below, market in Sicily. Artichokes are always sold with long stems because stems are delicious.

This is the process for preparing the artichokes explained with photos.

The Cleaning:

the stalks need to be stripped
notice how I remove the tough leaves leaving the edible part on the artichoke
the stems have been trimmed and the artichokes are kept in the acidulated water
the tops have been trimmed and the leaves need to be eased apart to make room for the stuffing in the centre

The Stuffing

The peeling/stripping of the stalks

Stuffing the artichokes

the artichokes are placed in the stock and wine
ready for cooking
artichokes sitting in a fish kettle

Some recipes:

I LOVE ARTICHOKES

ARTICHOKES and how we love them; CAPONATA DI CARCIOFI

ASPARAGUS and ARTICHOKES

Melbourne; August: Winter Artichokes in risotto and stuffed

SBS ITALIAN RADIO LIVE Winter vegetables, cauliflowers

I was recently invited to join the morning program on SBS Italian Radio Live, where I had the pleasure of discussing winter vegetables with hosts Massimiliano Gugole, who is based in Sydney and Andrea Pagani is based in Melbourne.

Living close to Queen Victoria Market, I’m fortunate to have a daily view of the bustling sheds and open-air car park from my balcony. The market is where I shop and where I’ve sourced fresh produce for as long as I have lived in Melbourne. Before that I lived in Adelaide and I also lived close to the Adelaide Central Market.

Quality ingredients, especially seasonal ones, are central to my cooking.

During the live broadcast, I noted that alongside typical winter produce, stalls are still offering late-season peppers, eggplants, and zucchini, mostly grown in warmer areas like Mildura. But what I was most excited about was the fennel – crisp, aromatic, and at its peak right now. Also in abundance are mushrooms, radicchio, witlof, chicory, and of course, the winter brassicas.

I was particularly pleased to find and cook the season’s first globe artichokes.

Artichokes

Chef Piera Pagnoni confirmed the richness of the winter harvest – cabbages, cauliflowers, fennel, broccoli – though she pointed out that these aren’t always children’s favourites. Her advice? “There’s always a secret weapon: cover it with béchamel, add a little Parmesan, put it in the oven… and everyone loves it.” Spoken like a true cook from Bologna, where pasta and comfort go hand in hand.

Later in the program, Chef Gianmarco Pardini from Sydney joined the conversation and reminded us that this is also a great season for fish: The water is colder, so the fish eats more and becomes tastier.”

During the  program, I  remembered and shared a recipe that holds special meaning for me – a cauliflower dish my Sicilian grandmother from Catania used to prepare. It’s simple, seasonal, and a wonderful way to celebrate the best of winter produce.

CAULIFLOWER smothered in strong Sicilian flavour (Cavolfiore Affogato / Vruòcculi Affucati)

One of the most flavourful and dramatic ways to cook cauliflower comes from my grandmother Maria, who was born in Catania. This dish is called Cavolfiore Affogato in Italian, and Vruòcculi Affucati in Sicilian, meaning literally “smothered/ suffocated cauliflower”. It refers to the way the cauliflower is slowly simmered in red wine and olive oil, gently compressed so that it softens into a layered like tortino (pie/cake/mould).

The wine not only deepens the flavour but also gives the cauliflower a lovely rose-coloured tinge that is especially noticeable if you use the classic white variety of cauliflower. The yellow cauliflower has an even more striking result.

Cauliflowers are now available in many colours but while  purple or green versions are very attractive raw, they tend to lose their colour when cooked.

To cook

The method is quite unique. The small pieces of cauliflower are layered in a pot with anchovies, onion, pecorino, olive oil, and sometimes black olives. It should be 3-4 layers. It is then pressed under a weight as it cooks slowly on the stovetop.

To compress it, cover the layers with a piece of baking paper cut to shape, place a heat-safe plate on top, and add a weight.  When you select the plate is important to that the plate is smaller than the size of the saucepan so as to leave a space around the rim to allow evaporation of the contents.

As a weight, I usually use my stone mortar, but a smaller saucepan partially filled with water works just as well. The aim is to gently press the layers down while the wine and oil simmer slowly.

As it cooks, the liquid gradually evaporates. What remains is a flavoured, cohesive “cake”(like a tortino) that can be sliced.

I use a pan with a heavy base to distribute the heat gently and I often use a piece of baking paper on the base to avoid sticking or use a non-stick saucepan. If needed, a spoonful of water can be added during cooking, but with low heat and a well-made pot, it’s rarely necessary.

Vruòcculi Affucati is perfect as a side dish, especially next to something bold in flavour.  It’s traditionally served at room temperature, and lef tovers are even better the next day.

Ingredients

  • 1kg cauliflower or broccoli (white or yellow preferred)
  • 1 large onion, thinly sliced
  • 50–100g pecorino, thinly sliced
  • 4–5 anchovy fillets (or more if you like)
  • 1 glass of red wine
  • ¾ cup extra virgin olive oil
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • Salt, if needed
  • 10 black olives, pitted (optional)

Method

Lightly oil the base of a deep saucepan. Line it with baking paper if you like.

Add a layer of cauliflower, then top with onion, anchovies, pecorino, pepper, and olives (if using). Repeat for two more layers, drizzling with olive oil as you go. Make sure the top layer is just cauliflower.

Press the layers gently with your hands. Pour the red wine over the top and finish with a final drizzle of oil.

Cover with baking paper or foil cut to size, then weigh it down with a plate and something heavy.

Cook on the lowest heat for 30–40 minutes. You’ll hear it begin to sizzle when the liquid has evaporated.

Allow it to rest before turning.

And of course I had written this recipe on my blog years ago and it has different photos to this post:

Inverno, cosa comprano e cosa mangiano italiani e italiane d’Australia?

 LINK- Spoken in Italian: SBS live morning radio 

CAVOLOFIORE AFFOGATO (Cauliflower braised in red wine, cheese and anchovies)

Other cauliflower recipes:

PASTA RIMESTATA COI CAVOFIORI; Pasta with cauliflower, sultanas, pine nuts and anchovies

PASTA con cavolofiore, salsicce di maiale e ceci (pasta with cauliflower, pork sausages and chickpeas)

 

 

SICILIAN MARKETS; use of every part of the animal

When planning a trip to Sicily, I always recommend visiting the island’s ancient open-air markets. The merchandise, the sellers who enthusiastically promote their produce in vibrant Sicilian, and the shoppers create a captivating experience.

I have seen Guttoso’s painting of the Vucciria Market hanging in the Palazzo Chiaramonte Steri, but it is also on the cover of one of my books: Il Libro D’Oro Della Cucina e Dei Vini Di Sicilia, by Pino Correnti.

Wandering through the open air  markets feels like stepping into a living museum of food culture. But when you reach the meat section, don’t be surprised to see all parts of the animal on display—intestines, organs, heads, and feet.

Everything is used to the fullest and there is always something to discuss with the sellers.

While reading about offal, I came across the term il quinto quarto—the “fifth quarter.” It comes from Roman butchering traditions, where an animal is divided into four quarters: two forequarters and two hindquarters. What remains—the head, organs, feet, blood, skin, and scraps—is known as the fifth quarter. In English, we call it “offal,” though that word doesn’t quite carry the same cultural meaning.

This is the tripe vendor in Palermo who was delighted to share information about the various types of tripe he offered: washed and unwashed tripe. He also explained how the type of pasture the animal grazed influences the tripe’s flavour, with the most favoured variety being the one that originated from the most preferred pasture.

Historically, prime cuts were sold to the wealthy, while the so-called undesirable parts were left to poorer families. For those who raised and slaughtered their own animals, selling the meat was a necessity—they cooked with what was left. But this kind of cooking, known as cucina povera, led to a rich tradition of creative and nourishing dishes. Across Italy, these parts became integral to local Italian cuisine, cooked in traditional ways. Examples include: fegato di vitello (calf’s liver), fegatini di pollo (chicken livers), trippa (tripe), piedini (trotters), coda alla vaccinara (oxtail stew from Rome), animelle (sweetbreads), lampredotto (cow’s fourth stomach, loved in Florence), and milza (spleen), especially famous in Palermo.

Nowhere is this tradition is more alive than in Sicily, where nothing from the animal is wasted. Every bite carries a story, a memory, and a deep respect for what the land and sea provide. In the markets—especially around Palermo’s Ballarò and Vucciria—you see how Sicilian cuisine reflects centuries of conquest, hardship, and resilience. But above all, it reflects respect. For ingredients, for animals, and for tradition.

In Palermo, one of the most iconic Sicilian street foods is pani ca meusa—veal spleen and lung simmered in lard, served in a sesame roll.

Another vendor might be ladling out hot frittola, a traditional Sicilian street food made from leftover bits of meat such as cartilage and other offal. These are boiled, pressed, often fried in lard, and then served hot in paper cones.

You’ll also find stigghiola—lamb intestines wrapped around spring onions, grilled and seasoned with olive oil, lemon, and parsley.

In rural areas, especially around Easter, families prepare minestra di agnello, a rich soup made with lamb heart, liver, and lungs, simmered with wild herbs and foraged greens. This is similar to the Greek Easter soup magiritsa, and both reflect the themes of rebirth, sacrifice, and renewal tied to the Easter tradition.

Another favourite is budelline—lamb intestines sometimes stuffed with breadcrumbs, mint, and garlic, or simply grilled. Crisp on the outside, juicy inside.

 Then there’s trippa alla siciliana, tender strips of cow stomach stewed in tomato sauce with mint and a bit of cheese.

In the southeast, around Catania and Ragusa, you might come across zuzzu, (and gelatina) a cold meat jelly. I presented the recipe for Zuzzu as a podcast on SBS.

Below is a photo of the  hot stock rich with collagen being poured over the meat.

But the finished product can look like this:

Zuzzu is made from the pig’s head, ears, and skin—similar to coppa di testa.

From land to sea, the same Sicilian resourceful approach applies.

On the Egadi Islands, especially in Favignana, every part of the tuna is used—a tradition dating back to the Arab influence and the ritual mattanza, or tuna harvest.

The most famous and better known delicacy of tuna is bottarga—salt-cured tuna roe, shaved over pasta or served in thin slices with lemon.

But there’s more from the tuna. These can be found in Trapani and Milazzo:

  • Mascione – The tuna’s cheek, tender and rich, grilled or preserved in oil.
  • Ficazza – A cured tuna salami made from trimmings, bold and spicy.
  • Curubedda – A coarser version of ficazza, cured and sliced.
  • Tarantello – A prized cut between the belly and back, usually preserved.
  • Busunagghia – Gelatin-rich meat from near the spine, slow-cooked or cured.

Sicilian cuisine embodies the historical and cultural heritage of the island. Whether sourced from the land or the sea, every component of an animal plays a vital role, contributing to its unique flavour profile that deserves recognition.

Zuzzu/ gelatina:

SBS The Ugly Ducklings of Italian Cuisine (Scarrafoni in Cucina)

PESCE SALATO (Salted Fish in Sicily)and BOTTARGA revisited

PASTA CON BOTTARGA (Pasta with Grated Bottarga)

PANELLE, PALERMO STREET FOOD-Chick pea fritters and the Antica Focacceria San Francesco

Palermo and Sicily … peeling the onion