Category: Italian style food

SOUTHERN ITALY: Caciocavallo and ’Nduja

I’ve long been familiar with caciocavallo cheese and ’nduja, but I always enjoy discovering new things about food and produce.

Being Italian I enjoy the endless journey through traditions, family stories, unique regions and small producers who put their heart into every ingredient. Researching Italian food is discovering a world inside every dish.

Recently, I visited a small restaurant that focuses on Southern Italian cuisine and had two dishes that sparked my curiosity.

The first was a caciocavallo that came from Puglia and not Sicily, as I was expecting. (Below is  a photo of the classic shape of caciocavallo)

The second was ’nduja, Calabria’s famously spicy, spreadable salume (small good). It was served warm in a small terracotta warmer, ready for dipping with some house-made warm focaccia. I’d never seen it served this way. At home, I tend to slice it like salame and serve it with some quality bread, in a much more rustic manner.

I find it fascinating how produce reflects the unique identity of each region. It’s all thanks to the geography, animal husbandry, and traditional techniques that shape what we grow and eat. A cheese is the flavour of the land, the animals that graze there, and the those that made it. The caciocavallo, from Southern Italy, has maintained its authenticity despite being mass-produced. Its Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) classification safeguards its unique characteristics.

The ‘nduja, which was traditionally made by hand after a pig was slaughtered, is now mass-produced, but traditional recipes remain largely unchanged.

Naturally, I had questions to ask at the restaurant. Fortunately, a passionate, food-loving waiter from Messina was happy to share his knowledge. What I love most about Italians is how even the simplest ingredients and recipes carry the weight of local pride. Thanks to his enthusiasm, I left with a deeper appreciation for these two iconic Southern Italian specialties and a strong urge to verify everything he told me.

Sometimes all it takes is a chatty, informative waiter to turn a good meal into an even better culinary experience. The list of Italian wines was also very good and again this waiter was happy to share his knowledge.

Caciocavallo

Caciocavallo is produced across several Southern Italian regions: Sicily, Basilicata, Calabria, Campania, Molise, and Puglia. However, I’ve always associated this cheese with Sicily, especially as it is made in Ragusa.

My paternal family roots are in Ragusa (photo above), so over the years I have visited Sicily many times. I developed a strong sense of pride around Caciocavallo Ragusano . This is made from the milk of Modica cows (Modica is a city close to Ragusa) that graze the wild pastures of the Iblei plateau. The cheese is rich and earthy, due to the wild herbs in the cows’ diet. My relatives led me to believe that this was the best caciocavallo, with all others being somewhat inferior. And I believed them.

I have eaten cheese produced by families in the region of Ragusa and, like my relatives, I appreciate caciocavallo very much. The caciocavallo cheeses The cheeses are the classic gourd or teardrop shape and are hung in pairs over a wooden beam (“cacio a cavallo” means “cheese on horseback”). It is appreciated as an aged cheese, but also when relatively fresh.

At the restaurant, I was offered Caciocavallo Podolico from Puglia. This local cheese is made from the milk of Podolica cows, a breed raised in southern Italy. Unlike cheese from Ragusa, Caciocavallo Podolico is aged for up to 36 months in natural caves. The cows feed on wild, aromatic herbs in a different terroir, giving the cheese a bold, intense flavour.

The restaurant served it pan-fried, warm, with a drizzle of honey and chilli flakes. The honey reminded me of how I’ve eaten pecorino in Liguria, not warmed.

Eating the caciocavallo from Puglia broadened my horizons beyond the exclusive patriotism for Ragusa-produced caciocavallo.

’Nduja

 ’Nduja is a soft, fermented, pork Calabrian salume made with about 30% chili peppers. Cured in natural casings, it remains spreadable because of the high fat content and fermentation.

Over the years, I have incorporated ‘nduja into various dishes and sauces, and have also enjoyed it sliced and served with bread, but I had never encountered it served warm. At the restaurant, it was presented in a unique warmer equipped with a small flame, ensuring a molten state and an opportunity to be scooped up with bread. This presentation is known as ‘scalda ‘nduja‘.

Here are a couple of ideas for enjoying these ingredients at home:

Pan-fried Caciocavallo: pan fry  in very little oil thick slices until golden, then drizzle with some quality honey and a sprinkle of chilli flakes. Look for DOP or regional varieties at specialty Italian shops.

Warm ’Nduja: Gently heat a slice in a ramekin in the microwave or small pan and serve with warm bread for dipping.. The restaurant served it with focaccia.

I’ve written other posts, especially about ‘nduja that may stimulate more adventures in the kitchen:

Squid with ‘nduja

‘NDUJA

NDUJA, a spreadable and spicy pork salame from Calabria

NDUJA, was considered peasant food in Calabria

PASTA with ‘NDUJA, CIME DI RAPA and PORK SAUSAGES

NDUJA with SQUID, very simple

NDUJA and CALAMARI as a pasta sauce

NDUJA, SQUID, VONGOLE AND PAN GRATTATO with Spaghetti

CACIOCAVALLO and similar cheese

SICILIAN CHEESE MAKING. A VISIT TO A MASSARO (farmer-cheese maker) IN RAGUSA. Formaggio argentiera

There are many recipes that include Caciocavallo as an ingredient  –  use the search button on my blog.

Below, photo of Ragusa.

EASTER IN SICILY: Faith, Spring, History and Cassata

Easter in Sicily is more than a religious celebration; it’s a mix of faith, spring and history. It is a time when the sacred rituals and the everyday come together. It reminds people of the past, celebrates the present, and looks forward to the future with hope.

Religion, especially Catholicism, is at the heart of life in Sicily, and this is most visible during Holy Week and the Easter Celebrations. From Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday, towns and cities across the island are filled with devotion and tradition.

On Good Friday, processions move slowly through the old streets. During the week churches are filled with music, the smell of incense, and quiet prayers; these rituals passed down through generations.

Easter Sunday marks the resurrection of Christ and brings a sense of festivity after the solemn days leading up to it. But Easter also connects with something older and more natural: the arrival of spring. As winter fades, nature comes back to life—trees bud, flowers bloom, and the days grow longer. It’s a time of new beginnings and hope.

Some Easter traditions in Sicily have roots that go back even further than Christianity. In Enna, for example, a priest blesses the fields, praying for good crops and weather. This ceremony likely comes from ancient agricultural customs.

One of the most striking events is the procession of fifteen local confraternities, each with its own unique clothing and customs. This tradition dates back to the 15th to 17th centuries and shows the influence of Spanish rule on Sicilian religious life. I was in Enna during easter time a while back.

With any festivity in Sicily, food plays an essential role—and Easter is no exception.

Alongside the religious rituals and springtime renewal, special dishes take centre stage.

One of the most iconic Easter desserts is the elaborate Sicilian cassata

While there are several versions of cassata – including a frozen ricotta and sponge cake version known as cassata gelata, and a baked pastry version filled with sweetened ricotta, known as cassata in forno, the most famous is the traditional highly decorated cassata.

Cassata al forno

This eye-catching, baroque-style cake is usually topped with colourful glacé fruits and candied citrus peel. It’s a dessert that isn’t typically made at home but is crafted by skilled pasticceri (pastry makers) in Sicily’s many historic pastry shops (pasticcerie).  Some that have been in operation for generations.

In this is the case with most Italians, they leave the pastry making to the experts.

The classic Sicilian cassata is made of three main parts. First, there’s a soft sponge cake, often moistened with a splash of liqueur and used to line the mould. Inside is a rich, sweetened ricotta filling, made with sheep’s milk (sweeter than cow’s milk) and mixed with small pieces of candied citrus and dark chocolate. Finally, the entire cake is covered with a layer of green marzipan or a smooth glaze of sugar icing, then decorated with intricate patterns and colourful candied fruits.

But cassata is more than just a dessert – it’s a layered representation of Sicily’s complex cultural and historical past and its origins are believed to reflect the many cultures that have shaped the island. The name cassata may come from the Arabic qas’ah, meaning “bowl,” referring to the traditional mould used to shape the cake. The Arabs introduced sugar to Sicily, along with candied fruits, which are key ingredients in the cake. The sponge cake, called Pan di Spagna in Italian, likely came from the Spanish, while the elaborate icing and presentation were influenced by the Monsù – French-trained chefs who worked in aristocratic Sicilian households in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Some of these chefs were French, while others came from Piedmont, a region in northern Italy that was under French control during that time. These Monsù added a touch of French elegance and flair to traditional Sicilian cooking, turning simple ingredients into refined and artistic dishes. Cassata, with its rich mix of flavours, textures, and cultural layers, is a perfect example.

While the traditional cassata is a showstopper, not everyone has the time, or the team of expert pasticceri to make such an elaborate creation.

I have made many cassate (plural) at home, the last one was probably approximately three years ago.

Tastes change, people’s diets do as well and I now have a more enjoyable method of utilising the same delectable flavours in a simpler manner. By employing the classic ingredients, I have crafted various versions of a deconstructed cassata-inspired dessert, such as the deconstructed cassata below where I added strawberries. I have made a few of these and they have always been a success.

the next time, I intend to serve the deconstructed cassata in a large wine glass. This presentation will be both easy to prepare and visually appealing. Furthermore, my previous deconstructed cassata retains the essence of the original, while eliminating the complexities associated with traditional preparation.

Deconstructed Cassata in a Glass

Ingredients (4 – 6 people)

* 500 g fresh ricotta, combined with a splash of thick cream (adjust the quantity to achieve a creamy consistency)

* 100 g caster sugar (or honey or Monk Fruit, as a sugar substitute)

* A few drops of vanilla concentrate

* Orange and citron (cedro) peel, soaked in Cointreau for at least a couple of hours. I use this French Liqueur because it is very orange flavoured.

* Small pieces of exceptionally dark chocolate

* Savoiardi (sponge fingers or Pan di Spagna/sponge cake) for use as a base or topping. Please refer to the “To Serve” section below for an estimate of the required quantities.

Marzipan leaves

* 100 g blanched almond meal

* 100 g icing sugar

* 1 egg white

* 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

* 1 drop of green food dye

Method:

Combine the marzipan ingredients in a bowl and knead until smooth. If the mixture is excessively wet, add more almond meal or sugar. I frequently a greater ratio to sugar.  Roll the marzipan thinly between two sheets of baking paper and cut into leaf shapes. These marzipan leaves serve as a delightful garnish and a playful tribute to the traditional decoration.

To Serve:

Experiment with the composition of the dessert. Here are a couple of suggestions:

* Place 1-2 Savoiardi (sponge fingers) or some sponge cake on the bottom of the glass and lightly brush it with the reserved Cointreau.

* Spread the creamy ricotta mixture over the sponge layer.

* Top the ricotta layer with another layer of sponge or savoiardi moistened with the reserved Cointreau. Top with some Marzipan leaves.

Alternatively, you can create a layered dessert by alternating between the ricotta mixture and the sponge layer, with each layer lightly brushed with Cointreau.

I prefer this one:

*Spoon generous layers of the ricotta mixture into large wine glasses.

*Garnish with marzipan leaves and 1-2 dry Savoiardi biscuits (not soaked in Cointreau) nestled into the glass, allowing you to scoop up the ricotta with the biscuits. Top with Marzipan leaves. Drink Cointreau on the side.

These are versions of reimagined cassata – less formal, enjoyable and may be more sympathetic of people’s tastes and diet, but still embodying Sicilian character. Ideal for when you desire to serve something visually appealing and steeped in tradition, without dedicating hours to the kitchen.

CASSATA DECONSTRUCTED; a postmodernist take on Sicilian Cassata

EASTER (Pasqua) in Sicily

CASSATA Explained with photos

CASSATA ( Post no. 2) Calls for a celebration!!!

EASTER SICILIAN SPECIALTIES …. Cuddura cù ova, Pecorelle Pasquali

SCACCE and PIZZA and SICILIAN EASTER

EASTER IN SICILY – A SICILIAN FEAST IN RAGUSA – Recipes and Giuggiulena

EASTER (Pasqua) in Sicily

 

ZUCCHINI FLOWERS and Preserved Artichokes

My generous friend who has space in her garden for zucchini plants and is able to collect their flowers has been lavishing me with kindness once again. She surprised me with a small brown paper bag with some of her zucchini blooms.

Unfortunately, the colder temperatures and rain aren’t friends of these delicate blossoms, and I think that this last gift could be my last.

Zucchini flowers can be prepared in various interesting culinary methods. However, due to their short shelf life, I prefer to cook them the same day I receive them, regardless of my schedule.

Sometimes, the best meals come together quickly with what you have on hand. With a few fresh ingredients and a bit of creativity, you can easily make a delicious dish that’s both satisfying and flavourful.

I therefore select the easiest and quickest option taking the ingredients I have at hand to achieve a satisfactory outcome.

I had pale-skinned zucchini, spring onions, fresh basil, saffron, and a jar of preserved artichokes. Since fresh artichokes aren’t in season right now, the preserved ones in oil added just the right touch, bringing a rich and tangy flavour to the dish and transforming it into something memorable. A little stock and a generous knob of butter rounded everything off, making for a simple yet delicious pasta sauce dressing.

The photos below should explain the cooking method.

Cut zucchini in half (I used 3), then quarters, and toss in hot pan with extra virgin olive oil. Cook for about 5 minutes. I like to cook these separately and not overcook them to preserve their unique flavour and their shape. Remove them from the pan and set aside. 

Slice 3 spring onions and sauté in extra virgin olive oil.

Add the flowers and basil, then sauté briefly. At this stage I also added a bit of saffron that I had been soaking in about 1/2 cup of stock.

I added the drained artichokes (I cut them in halves), warmed them, then added the cooked zucchini.

I finished with a generous lump of butter.

The type of pasta was rigatoni.

This dish tasted and smelled like Spring, brightening our dull Melbourne day. A friend came to dinner that evening and it was her first time for zucchini flowers.

She left very content.  

ZUCCHINI FLOWERS, A Simple, Sweet Delight

STUFFED ZUCCHINI FLOWERS

EGG PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI FLOWERS, ZUCCHINI, PINE NUTS and STRACCIATELLA (egg drop)

 

ZUCCHINI FLOWERS, A Simple, Sweet Delight

When a friend generously shares some of her freshly picked zucchini flowers from her garden, don’t you simply hug her?

As an ingredient, zucchini flowers are treasured in various cuisines for their subtle flavour and unique texture. Of course, this is the case in Italy. 

I wanted to cook them very simply to preserve the delicate, sweet taste of the flowers. Basil is a soft herb and plentiful at the moment growing on my balcony. I made a frittata and a pasta sauce – both delicate and sweet tasting.

What Are Zucchini Flowers? 

Zucchini flowers (courgette flowers in some parts of the world) are the edible blooms from the zucchini plant. Typically, the male flowers are harvested for culinary purposes, as they do not develop into zucchini. Male flowers feature a long, thin stalk, whereas female flowers sit at the end of the budding fruit. Their yellow-orange petals are visually appealing, and they have a mild, slightly sweet flavour that complements a variety of dishes. 

Due to their delicate nature, zucchini flowers are tricky to purchase. They wilt quickly after being picked, which makes them a rare find in supermarkets and even at farmers’ markets. Occasionally, they might be sold still attached to the zucchini, which helps preserve their freshness. And this is why I am so grateful when a friend takes time to collect them and bring them fresh. 

I stored them in a glass bowl, sealed them and put them in the fridge. The first day I used them to make a frittata. She bought me some more the next day and I cooked a pasta dish (recipe below).

Culinary Uses  

Zucchini flowers are a versatile ingredient and can be prepared in numerous ways. A popular method is to stuff them, dipping them in batter before gently frying them to create a crispy, savoury treat. When preparing zucchini flowers, it’s important to handle them with care so gently wash them under cold water. The stamen from inside the flower can be removed if you wish.  

To stuff zucchini flowers, carefully open the petals and place a small spoonful of filling inside. Gently twist the petals to close them around the stuffing. Dip the stuffed flowers in a light batter and fry them in hot oil until golden brown. They are delicious starter dish.  

They can also be used for frittata, soups, and pasta dishes.

PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI, BASIL AND ZUCCHINI FLOWERS

This fresh, simple yet elegant pasta dish uses sautéed zucchini, with quite a bit of fresh basil leaves and stock. I used spirally and once dressed in this buttery, aromatic sauce, I topped the pasta with lightly sautéed zucchini flowers and more basil. There was plenty of grated Parmesan cheese for a perfect finishing touch. I also grated some fresh nutmeg on to the pasta to complement its’ fresh taste. I used Parmesan because it is more delicate than Pecorino and as an alternative, I would have been happy with fresh ricotta.

 

For 2-4 people, depending if it is an entrée or main

Ingredients:

6 zucchini, (or more) sliced or cut into cubes

4 tbsp butter (divided)

20+fresh basil leaves

stock – vegetable or chicken (about 1cup)

200g (or more) short pasta

12 zucchini flowers, gently cleaned

freshly grated Parmesan cheese, to serve

salt and pepper to taste

freshly ground nutmeg

Instructions:

Cook Zucchini:  In a large pan, melt 2 tablespoon of butter over medium heat. Add the zucchini, season with salt and pepper, and sauté for about 10 -15 minutes until it softens and begins to caramelize. Add splashes stock if it starts to stick. Pour in the rest of the stock and cook to your liking Add about half of the basil leaves during the last couple minutes of cooking so they infuse the zucchini with their fragrance. Once done, set aside and keep warm.

Cook the Pasta: While the veggies cook, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and cook the pasta according to the package instructions. Reserve a little pasta cooking water before draining, in case you need to thin out your sauce. My pasta had sufficient stock and I did not need to do this.

Sauté the Zucchini Flowers: While the pasta cooks, heat the remaining butter in a small pan over medium heat. Add the zucchini flowers and sauté quickly for a couple of minutes until they wilt slightly. Add the fresh basil leaves sauté until they slightly soften. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Assemble the Dish: Once the pasta is drained, toss it into the pan with the cooked zucchini mixture. If the sauce looks too thick, add a little of the reserved pasta cooking water to help coat the pasta. Stir everything together to ensure the pasta is well-coated

Serve: Plate the pasta, and top with the sautéed zucchini flowers. Grate some fresh nutmeg on top

Present it with freshly grated Parmesan cheese (and a few extra basil leaves for garnish, if you wish).

Below: photo of Ravioloni (large ravioli) with zucchini flowers pan fried in some butter and sage as a dressing.

The frittata was extremely simple. I had some Brie in the fridge (cut into large slices) and used the flowers, fresh basil leaves, eggs and Brie. Once again I used butter.

EGG PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI FLOWERS, ZUCCHINI, PINE NUTS and STRACCIATELLA (egg drop) 

STUFFED ZUCCHINI FLOWERS

MAKING FRITTATA Podcast with Maria Liberati

 

 

SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD, current information and recipes

Sustainable Seafood Choices: Making the Right Decisions, Christmas 2024.

For many people who live in Australia seafood is a staple during the Christmas  and New Year period. This may come as a suprise but, with over 6 million kilograms of prawns consumed each year during this time, it’s important to be mindful of the environmental impact of our choices.

It also a good idea to check labels for fish, for example I only buy Australian seafood and there are many reasons to buy Australian seafood – sustainability, environmental impact and quality. Australian seafood producers often have  sustainability certifications from the Marine Stewardship Council and Aquaculture Stewardship Council. 

Whether it’s prawns, oysters, or a beautiful whole fish, for most Australians it appears that the Christmas and New Year’s festive season wouldn’t feel the same without some seafood.

Not only Italians, but people of different cultures who have a Catholic background abstain from eating meat on Christmas Eve, and fish is a preferred choice.

In recent years, it has been beneficial to see information via the media guiding shoppers to make more informed, sustainable seafood choices. This is crucial not only to protect marine species, but also to ensure that we’re supporting seafood industries that are committed to the health of our oceans.

Here’s a summary of some important information and guidance from what i have read and heard on sustainable seafood in the last few weeks. Hopefully it  may help us make the right choices this holiday season. I have also included some seafood recipes at the end of this post.

The Environmental Impact of Seafood Consumption

As the demand for seafood grows, so do the pressures on our oceans and marine life, with issues like bycatch, pollution, and unsustainable farming practices becoming more widespread.

Australia’s appetite for seafood during the Christmas season has a significant environmental cost. For instance, the production of prawns can lead to habitat destruction, pollution, and unsustainable fishing practices, all of which harm marine ecosystems. Bycatch – the capture of non-target species – is a major concern, and certain farming practices, particularly for prawns, have been linked to sea bed deforestation and high pollution levels.

One of the most reliable resources for navigating the complexities of sustainable seafood is the Australian Marine Conservation Society’s GoodFish Guide, which provides helpful advice on what to buy, and what to avoid, based on the sustainability of fishing methods and farm practices.

Just like the tureen above making the right choice can be confusing, What may be sustainable in one country, state or location, will not be sustainable in another. And also, what was sustainable last year may not be on the good choice list this year. And while we are discussing changes, I have been promoting wild caught fish for many years but now, I am not so sure about making generalisations! It all depends on the fishery. (Unfortunately, I cannot remember what Art Gallery in NY this photo was from.)

Unsustainable Choices to Avoid

Some popular seafood items are unfortunately not as environmentally friendly as  promoted. This year I have been hearing strong criticism about Tasmanian salmon. Mind you, many of us already knew this, but lately the views expressed in the media have been particularly damming.

The GoodFish Guide advises against purchasing farm-raised Tasmanian salmon that has been linked to high pollution levels in the waters where it’s farmed depriving other fish of oxygen.Tasmania’s salmon farming industry has been controversial due to environmental damage, animal welfare concerns, and a lack of regulation. Salmon farming has led to dead zones in Macquarie Harbour due to low oxygen levels, and has impacted the Macquarie Harbour Wilderness World Heritage Area.

There are warnings about the potential extinction of the Maugean skate, a rare species found only in Tasmania,

There are between 40 and 120 adult Maugean skate left on the planet, and the federal government’s threatened species committee said in August 2024 the best way to save the endangered fish was to eliminate or at least dramatically cut back on salmon farming in its habitat.
The committee said there was a ‘significant correlation’ between low oxygen levels and an increase in salmon farming. Farmed fish suck up a lot of the oxygen in the water, while fish food and faeces that enter the water via the salmon pens feed oxygen-consuming bacteria causing extreme degradation of marine ecosystems surrounding these farms.
Another seafood to avoid is imported vannamei prawns (also known as white leg shrimp), commonly sourced from countries like Vietnam. These prawns are often farmed in ways that cause significant environmental damage, including water pollution and the destruction of mangroves. Furthermore, prawn farming in these regions is notorious for its high use of antibiotics and chemicals, which can harm local biodiversity and contaminate waterways.

Sustainable Alternatives for Christmas Seafood

But there are plenty of sustainable seafood options available that won’t compromise the environmental values or budget.

One great alternative offered is Australian salmon, which is native to the region and is typically caught using low-impact, sustainable methods. Unlike farmed Tasmanian salmon, wild-caught Australian salmon has a much smaller environmental footprint and provides a local, sustainable option for your Christmas feast. I have included some notes and a recipe about this fish towards the end of this post.

Farm-raised Australian prawns – especially varieties like black tiger and banana prawns – are an excellent sustainable option. These prawns are farmed in environmentally controlled systems with a much lower impact than their imported counterparts. They are often cheaper than wild-caught prawns because of lower labor costs and can be just as tasty. Additionally, some of Australia’s Spencer Gulf prawns are both affordable and sustainable, making them an excellent choice for a Christmas seafood platter.

Another more sustainable option is farm-raised barramundi. While wild-caught barramundi, particularly those caught using destructive gillnets, is often considered harmful to marine life, farmed barramundi has a far less damaging environmental impact. The Australian barramundi farming industry is highly regulated, ensuring that practices meet high environmental and animal welfare standards.

Wild-Caught vs. Farmed: Navigating the Choices

In the face of these sustainability challenges, it’s also important to consider the difference between wild-caught and farmed seafood. Both have their pros and cons. Wild-caught fish can suffer from overfishing and bycatch, especially when fisheries are poorly managed. However, Australian fisheries are typically subject to strict regulations, which means that wild-caught Australian species like prawns, barramundi, and rock lobster are generally more sustainable than wild-caught seafood from other regions.

Farmed seafood, on the other hand, can be more environmentally friendly if the farming practices are responsible. In fact, well-managed fish farms can actually have a smaller carbon footprint and less environmental impact than some forms of wild-caught fishing. It’s key to check where and how the seafood is farmed. Sustainable farms use environmentally responsible practices such as efficient feed management, waste control, and low-impact farming systems.

Sustainable Seafood: Affordable Options for Every Budget

Sustainable seafood can sometimes be more expensive, but there are affordable options available. For example, Australian salmon and farmed prawns are not only eco-friendly choices but are also budget-friendly compared to some of their imported or wild-caught alternatives. By opting for these, we can support local industries and make a real difference in the health of our oceans.

This Christmas, consider making a conscious decision to choose sustainable options. Not only will you be making a positive impact on the environment, but you’ll also be supporting Australia’s local fishing and farming communities, ensuring that these industries remain viable for future generations.

In summary, being an informed seafood consumer doesn’t have to be difficult. By using resources like the GoodFish guide and prioritising sustainable Australian seafood, we can all enjoy delicious meals that are kind to the planet.

From Australian salmon and farmed prawns to sustainably farmed barramundi, there are plenty of options that are both eco-friendly and affordable. It’s about making smarter choices, so that we can continue to enjoy the bounty of the ocean – without compromising its future.

Recipes

Not all sustainable seafood is mentioned in what I have read or listened to. For example squid, mussels and sardines have always been on the better choice list. Explore the options:

GoodFish Guide

There are many recipes for Mussels, Squid and Sardines on my blog, far too many to list here. Here are just a few.

MUSSELS, three ways: in brodetto, with spaghetti and in a risotto with saffron

NDUJA, SQUID, VONGOLE AND PAN GRATTATO with Spaghetti

GRILLED CALAMARI (CALAMARI ‘NTA BRACI (Sicilian) – CALAMARI ALLA BRACE (Italian)

SARDINES, grilled or barbecued with Sicilian dressings

There are far too many recipes for seafood on my blog (pasta, rice, raw, cooked in various ways), but this link could be helpful:

LA VIGILIA (Christmas Eve revisited)

This year, Australian salmon seems to feature strongly as a sustainable choice. This fish was abundant in South Australia where I lived for many years and I am used to cooking it. But because it is a strong tasting fish, I would recommend baking it  whole or filleted and using strong flavours like anchovies, garlic and onion.  The flavour of this fish also responds to strong tasting herbs. I would never cook it by steaming or enveloping with foil to bake; it is far too fishy, even for me.

BAKED FISH WITH POTATOES, VINEGAR and ANCHOVIES

Cooking Autralian salmon on a grill on the BBQ will also suit this fish. The charred flavour will mask the fishy taste of the fish and enhance the flavour. Think of sardines on the BBQ and how delicious they are when cooked this way.

Strong tasting sauces will complement the taste of the fish.
And consider using strong tasting herbs and plenty of them, either when cooking  strong tasting fish or for the sauces.

SARDINES, grilled or barbecued with Sicilian dressings

PASTA CON LE SARDE (SARDINES)  (strong flavours – fennel, saffron, currants)

SAUCES for meat, fish and vegetables to brighten up your Christmas

Enjoy cooking, eating, sharing and talking about food!

ROASTED CHARRED PEPPERS

The charred elegance of roasted peppers -—simple, bold, and unforgettable!

Peppers (capsicums) charred on a grill capture the essence of Sicilian cuisine. Simple, colourful, fragrant and full of  flavour, this dish transforms humble ingredients into a culinary triumph.

Fresh basil, garlic and good extra virgin olive oil is all that is needed for a tasty salad, but I often keep more in the fridge to add to other dishes.

The Peperoni (peppers) are known as Pipi Arrustuti in Sicilian and Peperoni Arrostiti in Italian. Although they are grilled Arrostiti means roasted.

Especially perfect for summer and autumn when peppers are at their best.

Grilled peppers are versatile and can enhance a variety of dishes with their smoky, sweet flavor and are a fantastic way to add colour, flavour, and nutrition to almost any dish!

My preferred way is to present the Peperoni Arrostiti as an antipasto alongside crusty bread, as a topping for grilled meats, or even as a side dish. Its vibrant colours and robust flavors make it a show-stopping addition to any meal.

Peeling the peppers without rinsing preserves their intense smoky depth.

Peperoni Arrostiti, Roast Peppers

Below some serving suggestions:

Below, roast peppers surrownding some ricotta.

I usually add left over peppers to other salads, either made with uncooked vegetables or cooked, for example :

  • Toss grilled peppers with cucumbers, cherry tomatoes, herbs, black olives, red onion, a drizzle of good olive oil and lemon juice.
  • Combine grilled peppers with grains like quinoa, farro etc, along with rocket, pulses like chickpeas or  any type of beans, roasted pumpkin or grilled zucchini or eggplant and perhaps a tahini dressing.

Ingredients

Peppers: 6, any color (a mix is ideal, with red peppers offering a sweeter note).
extra virgin olive Oil: 1/2 cup
garlic: 3 cloves, chopped
tomatoes: 2 whole, firm and red
basil leaves: About 3/4 cup, torn
salt and black pepper: To taste

Optional Variations:

Mint: replace basil for a fresh twist, a favourite among some parts of Sicily.

Lemon Juice: add a squeeze before serving, a common touch in southern Sicily, especially in Ragusa.

Toasted breadcrumbs (tossed in a hot frypan with a little extra virgin olive oil):  some Sicilians sprinkle toasted breadcrumbs on the grilled peppers before serving. This is also a favourite topping for caponata.

Below, a photo of street food assold from the streets of Palermo.

Process

1. Roast the Peppers

Place the peppers on a BBQ grill over intense heat. Turn them frequently until the skin is blistered and puffy. Once charred, remove them from the grill and place them in a bowl, covering it with a plate or lid. This step allows the peppers to steam, making the skins easier to peel. Alternatively, wrap them in paper or place them in a plastic bag as my mother and relatives often do. Let them sit for at least 10 minutes.

2. Prepare the Tomatoes

Grill the tomatoes briefly until their skins split and char. This process takes only 1-2 minutes. Remove and set aside to cool.

3. Peel and Clean

Using your fingers, peel away the skins of both the peppers and tomatoes, scraping off as much charred skin as possible. Avoid rinsing to preserve the flavor. Split the peppers and remove the seeds, then tear both the peppers and tomatoes into rough strips.

4. Assemble the Dish

Place the torn peppers and tomatoes into a bowl. Add the slivered garlic and torn basil leaves. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil, season with salt and black pepper, and gently toss to combine.

5. Marinate

Let the mixture marinate for at least 30 minutes before serving. The flavors deepen beautifully if allowed to rest overnight.

You can also roast hot peppers/chillies to add to this salad or store them in extra virgin olive oil in the fridge to use elewhere,for example for making Harissa..

See recipe for Harissa.

Harissa made with fresh Chillies

SALSA ROMESCO (Romesco sauce, this recipe is made with roasted peppers, tomatoes and almonds)

ANTIPASTO – GRILLED SUMMER VEGETABLES AND A SCOOP OF SALADS

 

IL FRUTTIVENDOLO

I am writing a tribute to Gus and Carmel, owners of IL Fruttivendolo.

In 2009, I first wrote a post about Gus and Carmel Bressi’s enthralling seasonal, heirloom produce at the Queen Victoria Market on my blog, Sicilian Seafood Cooking. But my shopping at their vibrant stall began long before that.

When I moved from Adelaide to Melbourne in early 2002, I stumbled upon a hidden gem nestled in the QVM— a fruit and vegetable stall that felt like my own slice of Italy. I live just a stone’s throw away from the market and I found a profusion of seasonal delights that was reminiscent of my Italian background.

Gus and Carmel’s stall became my one destination for all things fresh. Here, I found a bounty of ingredients that were nearly impossible to find elsewhere in the QVM: the first cime di rapa, artichokes and cardoons (Carmel holding a cardoon).

Carmel was certainly very original and inspiring when displaying vegetables. Those brussels came from her.

Their shelves overflowed with fragrant herbs, crunchy fennel (both bulb and bunch), kohlrabi, and wild greens like nettles, milk thistle and amaranth that added adventurous variations to my cooking.

Endives, frisée and chicory were alongside bunches of puntarelle and senape – and I question if any shopper had seen this leafy green vegetable before (Senape is the middle photo).

There was an array of cauliflowers in every imaginable shape and colour and for many, much of the produce was uncommon. Above – Gus being enchanting to Mary Taylor Simeti who was visiting Melbourne from Sicily at the time. Although I had told him about her, when I introduced him to her, I dont think he realized just how much she knew!!! Mary is the queen of Sicilian Food writing. (Pomp and Sustanance, Bitter Almonds, Sicilian Summer – Cooking with my grandsons).

I marvelled at their diverse colours of eggplants, pink, white, violet and even striped eggplants, varieties that I had not seen since Sicily, crisp witlof of two different colours, and types of radicchio that I had not encountered since Trieste and Venice where radicchio reigns supreme (In the regions Friuli Venezia Giulia and the Veneto).

Fresh borlotti beans, broad beans, and the asparagus in colours and thicknesses, the thick white variety that was everywhere in Paris in Spring. The purple variety surprised me because it lost its colour when cooked.

And who could forget the first heirloom tomatoes, strikingly different carrots, and the sweetness of fresh figs and prickly pears?

While you might spot a few of these treasures at other stalls, Gus and Carmel were the true pioneers. Their passion for produce was profound, and they were more than happy to share tips on how to prepare even the most unfamiliar vegetables, turning every shopping trip into a culinary lesson. They were innovators, always one step ahead, knowing exactly what was in  and who to source it from. Others, like John from Tomato City specialises in tomatoes, he does have eggplants, radicchio and artichokes, as Italian stallholders generally do, but Il Fruttivendolo specialised in the uncommon, a great range of varieties of the same vegetables, those not usually seen in other greengrocers.

Below, broadbeans. notice how relatively small they are. theis is how they should be sold, not like the briadbeans that are generally found in other places that are picked far too mature.

Their stall was filled with vibrant colour and fragrances and each vegetable, fruit and herb was meticulously labelled and beautifully arranged in baskets and boxes.

It was no wonder that their display often attracted the attention of photographers and TV crews, even if their contributions went unrecognized.

Gus and Carmel were initially located in B Shed, Stall 61-65, their space later transformed into the beloved Il Fruttivendolo—a name that elegantly summarises their dual role as sellers of both fruit and vegetables.

 Il = the, frutti = fruit + vendolo = seller = fruitseller.

Just as greengrocers also sell fruit, fruit sellers also sell vegetables.

When the Queen Victoria Market underwent its redevelopment, they were relocated to a couple of temporary stalls before being housed in A Shed, where they continued to enthral customers.

Sadly, when I returned from a three-month trip away and I found that Il Fruttivendolo was no longer there. The operation of the stall came to an abrupt end early one morning when Carmel, alone and carefully organizing her produce, was threatened by an assailant at knife point. Fortunately, another stallholder intervened, chasing the assailant away. But the incident left its mark, prompting Gus and Carmel to accelerate their timing to retire.

Gus and Carmel Bressi were not just suppliers of fruits and vegetables; they were large contributors to the vibrancy of the Queen Victoria Market. Their absence is felt deeply by their customers and the other stall holders, especially those who just like Carmel and Gus have been there for a very long time.

They are remembered for their legacy, the flavours they brought to many kitchens, and their dedication and commitment to source quality produce.

There are many vegetable recipies in this blog – All Things Sicilian amd more.

Here are a few recipes, but if you use the search botton you will be able to find many more.

SENAPE, a new type of mustard green vegetable

CIME DI RAPE (A winter green)

ASPARAGUS and ARTICHOKES

NETTLES (Ortiche), Culinary uses and gnocchi

PASTA RIMESTATA COI CAVOFIORI; Pasta with cauliflower, sultanas, pine nuts and anchovies

FENNEL; male and female shapes

STUFFED BAKED FENNEL WITH PANGRATTATO; FINOCCHI RIPIENI

Melbourne; August: Winter Artichokes in risotto and stuffed

CAPONATA FROM PALERMO (made with eggplants)

SICILIAN CAPONATA DI MELANZANE as made in Palermo (Eggplant caponata and Eggplant caponata with chocolate)

MARY TAYLOR SIMETI and her new book:SICILIAN SUMMER An adventure in cooking with my grandsons

CARDOONS, What are they? (Cardoni or Cardi in Italian)

PASTA CON FINOCCHIO (Pasta and fennel; preferably wild). This is a recipe Gus gave me.

Below, a tribute from The Friends Of The Queen Victoria Market.

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TRAVELLING, Melbourne to Darwin

This post contains photos of the cooking that can be achieved with a simple stove in an extremely basic van while travelling in country Australia. Experiencing nature and being part of the stunningly beautiful scenery stimulates the appetite.

I left Melbourne six weeks ago and although I have been cooking every night, I have had very little time or phone coverage to write posts. At the same time it has also been very difficult to take photographs in the semi dark of the food I am cooking or eating. Our VW carrier is a simple van and the cooking facilities have to be done outside, but we have continued to eat healthy fresh food. This has never been difficult because when we travel we are picking up a vegetable or two in the bigger communities and storing them in our little icebox, so we have had fresh produce all the way. A few tins of pulses help but I have also carried a selection of pulses, the small shaped ones, and once soaked they cook quickly.

Zucchini, cabbage, sweet potatoes, carrots, pumpkin and cauliflower seem to be available everywhere and wherever we could we bought spinach (the blede type) and silver beet. We always do well with fresh vegetables, wherever we are!

I brought fresh herbs from home and after 6 weeks I still have thyme and bay leaves. These last for ever! Spices are also a must and there are many of those.

Here are some photos of some of the things I cooked or was in the process of cooking. The stunningly beautiful scenery and surprisingly vivid colours of the Northern Territory certainly are beautiful!

Food

And now for some Northern Territory scenery:

And all of this, performed in a very simple van!

These links have more photos and ideas for what can be achieved:

CAMPING AND COOKING IN W.A.

GLAM COOKING ON THE ROAD; Camping

BEING ELDERLY, TRAVELLING and COFFEE

CAMPING and COOKING

HERB-STUFFED MUSHROOMS: A CULINARY EXPERIMENT

In the realm of cooking, sometimes with a little spontaneity, the simplest dishes surprise us the most and are the most rewarding. These Herb-Stuffed Mushrooms, for instance are stuffed with just a handful of fresh herbs and a bit of kitchen intuition. Here’s the simple recipe that may encourage you to experiment with different herbs.

The stems of the mushroom are dense and meaty and when blended with the herbs thicken the stuffing.

Nuts, cheese or a bit of bread to the blend will also stiffen the stuffing.

In this mixture I added mint and a little grated lemon peel to add a fresh taste. I trusted my culinary judgement and  some bread crumbs on top of the stuffing to add some crunch and texture.

Once baked, these Herb-Stuffed Mushrooms had an irresistible aroma and a nice crunch from the breadcrumbs.

Whether served hot or at room temperature, they make for a delightful appetizer or a side dish that complements any meal.

In Italian, herbs are called erbe aromatiche. These mushrooms would be more appealing if they were described as: Funghi gratinati al forno, con erbe aromatiche.

Ingredients:

  • Large mushrooms, with a good cavity for stuffing and intact stems
  • Fresh herbs: thyme, marjoram, parsley, mint (adjust according to taste)
  • Grated lemon peel
  • 1 large clove of garlic, peeled
  • Extra virgin olive oil (sufficient for blending)
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • Breadcrumbs made from good quality, day-old bread, blended with a little extra virgin olive oil

Instructions:

Clean the mushrooms by wiping them with a damp cloth. Carefully remove the stems, ensuring the caps remain intact.

Prepare the Herb Blend:

In a blender, combine the herbs (thyme, marjoram, parsley), mushroom stems (cut into small pieces), peeled garlic clove, a pinch of salt, ground pepper, and a generous glug of extra virgin olive oil. Blend until the mixture reaches a puree-like consistency.

Stuff and Bake:

Preheat the oven to 170-180°C (340-360°F).

Place the cleaned mushroom caps in a baking dish lightly greased with extra virgin olive oil.

Spoon the herb mixture evenly into each mushroom cap, filling them generously.

In a separate bowl, mix breadcrumbs with a little extra virgin olive oil until coated. Sprinkle the breadcrumb mixture over each stuffed mushroom.

Bake and Serve:

Place the baking dish in the preheated oven and bake for about 20 minutes, or until the mushrooms are tender and the breadcrumbs turn golden brown.

More Ideas:

Cooking, for me is about being creative and trusting my culinary instincts.

Experiment with different herb combinations or add a few nuts or a little cheese to suit your taste preferences. Here are a few ideas:

Use rosemary, sage, parsley as the herbs for the stuffing. If I wanted to add nuts, I would select almonds or walnuts. I am unlikely to add cheese here, as the mixture would overpower the taste of the cheese.

Oregano is a strong tasting herb and I might pair it with thyme and a bit of parsley to tame the aromas. I would probably add some anchovies because these will complement the strong flavours, no nuts, but a little grated pecorino would be perfect.

When using basil or soft spinach as the main ingredients for a stuffing, I would select pine nuts or pistachio. These are not strong tasting nuts and would not be overpowering. If I wanted to add cheese I would add Parmigiano or fresh ricotta. Both are mild cheeses. I would also add a bit of nutmeg.

 I recently blended leftover parsley, fresh coriander, and watercress stems (left over from the makings of a salad), which turned out excellent. However, if you’re hosting Italians, be mindful that coriander isn’t commonly favored in Italian cuisine. Nevertheless, there are also many non-Italian friends who aren’t fond of coriander. If you consider adding nuts, raw peanuts would complement the Asian flavors well.

Grated lemon peel added to stuffings is excellent.

STUFFED BAKED MUSHROOMS with Nepitella

STUFFED MUSHROOMS with pine nuts and fresh breadcrumbs – Funghi ripieni

 

CIME DI RAPA and pasta

This is the season for Cime di rapa and I can’t get enough of them.

Unfortunately this green leafy vegetable that is in season now (winter) can be hard to find, even at the Queen Victoria Market (Melbourne). Gus and Carmel who have a stall at the QVM called Il Fruttivendelo (Frutti+ vendelo= fruit+ seller) have bunches of Cime di rapa. A fruttivendolo doesn’t only sell fruit, and as this well stocked stall attests, they have a wide range of seasonal fruit and vegetables; some that you will have trouble to find anywhere else, for example, I buy prickly pears, chicory, endives and much more.

The only other person who sometimes has Cime di rapa is John from Tomato City.

And by the way, another vegetable that is difficult to source is artichoke and both of these stalls sell them, in season of course.

I have seen bunches of Cime di rapa in greengrocers in the suburbs, at least those that have Italian proprietors. You won’t have any trouble finding them in Adelaide as most greengrocers are owned by Italians.

Italians mostly refer to them as Cime (tops or tips). A rapa is a turnip, Cime di rapa are turnip tips or tops, perhaps they are called this because this green leafy vegetable is a mustard tasting green, like turnips. As you see they look a bit like broccoli and they have a yellow flower.

As for my recent jaunt to the Dandenong Market, while Cime may have eluded me, the diversity of fresh produce on display was nothing short of mesmerizing The quality was superb, and the prices were amazingly cheap. Not surprisingly, there were very good looking, high quality, fresh zucchini, eggplants and okra at all the stalls.

Amidst the chatter of countless languages, the market’s vibrancy was enormous. I say not surprisingly, as the produce vendors and shoppers reflected the rich tapestry of cultures that live in Dandenong.

The City of Greater Dandenong is the most culturally diverse community in Australia, with residents from 157 birth places and 64 per cent of its population born overseas.

Among the more than 130 different languages spoken are Vietnamese, Khmer, Chinese, Greek, Albanian, a large Indian population especially Punjabi, Pakistani, Afghan, Sri Lankan and Sinhalese.

When it comes to sourcing ingredients, I’m no stranger to the busy streets of Melbourne’s CBD and I have no problems finding Vietnamese, Korean, Japanese and Chinese ingredients, but I go to Dandenong mainly for the array of Indian hard to source treasures. That recent excursion yielded spices, dhal, and pickles;each ingredient an undertaking of culinary endeavours to come.

I was really keen to cook Cime that night and came home via a greengrocer that would have them, and they did.

Cime di rapa

Most cooks who are familiar with this green leafy vegetable are also familiar with the most popular and common ways of cooking them to dress short pasta, especially orecchiette – (little ears shaped pasta, photo above). The greens are usually softened/cooked first and then tossed in extra virgin olive oil, garlic and chilli. It is a Southern Italian dish (made popular in Puglia, Bari is the capital city). Cows are widespread in the North, sheep in the South and therefore it is fitting that the grated cheese to top the pasta is Pecorino, made from sheep’s milk. Parmigiano is made from cow’s milk, leave that for Northern pasta dishes.

My relatives in Sicily (and most likely in other Italian regions) boil the greens in quite a bit of salted water and once the greens are drained they reserve the water to cook the pasta.

The drained greens are sautéed in extra virgin olive oil, chilli and garlic. The vegetable water flavours the pasta and sometimes tinges that pasta green. It is a nice touch, but I prefer to sauté the cleaned greens without cooking them first. I like to concentrate the flavour of the vegetables and keep a little bit of crunch – not Italian at all.

Most of the time I add anchovies to the hot oil before adding the chilli and garlic. The anchovies dissolve easily in the hot oil before I add and sauté the chilli and garlic, and finally. Omit the salt if you are adding anchovies.

Cime cooked the same way are great as a side vegetable, so forget the cavolo nero, silverbeet, kale and spinach, try Cime instead.

There are other ways to cook Cime as an accompaniment to pasta. Popular is the addition of good pork and fennel Italian sausages, but most of the time I like to cook the Cime (with or without the pork sausages) with pulses – particularly chickpeas, cannellini or borlotti beans. With the pork sausages I tend to favour borlotti, they taste more meaty.

Sometimes I use feta instead of grated cheese. It is much creamier and definitely not Italian. One of the highlights of residing in a multicultural country is that one can mix and match without having a Italian looking over your shoulder.

I keep the feta in extra virgin olive oil and herbs in my fridge. Use tough herbs like Bay leaves and Thyme. Dried Oregano, fennel seeds, peppercorn or chilli flakes ate good but not soft herbs or fresh garlic… these oxidise and  rot.

Red tomatoes are also a good addition. In winter tomatoes are out of season, so if you are not able to use fresh tomatoes one tin is sufficient – toss chopped tomatoes and their juice in a saucepan, add a glug of extra virgin olive oil, 1-2 garlic cloves some fresh basil (seems to be for sale all year round) or some oregano (fresh or dried), a little salt and reduce it as you would to make a tomato salsa to dress pasta. Add the tomato salsa to the sautéed Cime cooked with or without anchovy. If you are using pomodorini as I am in the photos below , you may prefer to just sauté the tomatoes. I rather like the explosion of flavour that pomodorini provide.

Leave the above sauce as it is or add a cup or so of chickpeas, cannellini or borlotti.

 

There is very little waste (if any) because the larger stems that can be tough can be stripped of their outer peel.

Whether served as a comforting pasta dish or as a humble side, Cime di rapa with their depth of flavour do it for me every time.

Other information and recipes about Cime di Rapa (also referred to in the plural as Cime di rape).

CIME DI RAPE (or Rapa) with pasta, anchovies and lemon peel

ONE OF MY FAVOURITE VEGETABLES Cime di Rape

PASTA with ‘NDUJA, CIME DI RAPA and PORK SAUSAGES

EDIBLE WEEDS: Orecchiette e Broccoletti Selvatici (and cime di rape)

CIME DI RAPE (A winter green)