Category: Italian style food

ITALIAN NEW YEAR’S LENTILS (Lenticchie di Capodanno)

In Italy, lentils (lenticchie) are particularly eaten on New Year’s Eve (Capodanno) as they are one of the most enduring symbols of good luck, prosperity and abundance. As the old year concludes and the new one begins, bowls of lentils are placed on tables across the country, consumed with the hopeful belief that they will bring financial security and good fortune in the months ahead.

If you believe in tradition, eat them before midnight and make a wish for the year ahead.

Brown lentils (also known as green lentils) are followed by Puy (also known as French lentils) and a smaller variety of brown lentils.
The Symbolism of Lentils

The symbolism is ancient. Lentils’ small, round, coin-like shape has long been associated with money and wealth. This idea dates back to Roman times, when lentils were exchanged at the turn of the year in the hope they would transform into coins. Over centuries, this belief became embedded in Italian food culture, turning lentils into an essential New Year ritual rather than an everyday superstition. Some traditions even claim that the more lentils you eat, the greater your prosperity will be.

Traditional Pairings

Lentils are commonly paired with rich pork dishes such as cotechino or zampone but are equally satisfying when prepared on their own or with vegetables, herbs and olive oil. They can be served warm and garnished as a salad. These gently braised lentils are rich, comforting and symbolic, a dish to welcome prosperity in the coming year without being heavy. I have included a traditional and cultural recipe for lentils with cotechino on my blog.

 I also enjoy braising good quality pork sausages with lentils. I am particularly fond of both of these dishes but it is also suitable for a warm Australian evening or as a salad for a barbecue. It can be eaten warm at room temperature or even the following day. In fact, like most lentil dishes, it improves with time.

This dish is more commonly associated with the north of Italy, but as we know, food habits change. Recipes travel. Traditions adapt. Just as panettone has become a Christmas fixture in Australia, lentils have found their way onto many New Year tables well beyond Italy. Lentils are traditionally eaten at the turn of the year because their coin-like shape symbolises wealth and abundance. This simple preparation allows their meaning — and flavour — to shine, making it a perfect dish to usher in the New Year with intention, restraint, and hope.

Lentils as an accompaniment to stuffed artichokes.
Customising and Enjoying Your Lenticchie di Capodanno

I have always prepared lentils in this manner, so I have never considered writing a recipe. For those who prefer Indian or Middle Eastern flavours, it is simple to omit the bay, rosemary and thyme and add Indian or Middle Eastern spices.

The cooking method will look familiar. Onion, carrot, and celery make their inevitable appearance — the Italian usual suspects. This soffritto forms the base of countless soups, braises, and stews, and it works just as well here.

You can easily adjust quantities. Add more lentils if you like leftovers (and you should). They reheat beautifully, and with a little extra liquid can even be turned into soup the next day — particularly welcome if you are living somewhere cooler than I am.

Serve warm or at room temperature or as a salad with a few additional simple ingredients.

And do appreciate the leftovers. The flavours deepen over the next few days. Very good eating indeed.

Italian New Year’s Lentils with Olive Oil, Garlic & Herbs

(Lenticchie di Capodanno all’Olio d’Oliva)

INGREDIENTS

4–6 as a side or light main

  • 250 g dried lentils (Green lentils or Puy lentils)
  • 1 small onion, finely chopped
  • 1 carrot, finely diced
  • 1 celery stalk, finely diced
  • 2 cloves garlic, lightly crushed
  • 2–3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to finish
  • 1 bay leaf
  • A small sprig of rosemary or thyme
  • Vegetable stock or water (as needed)
  • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

METHOD

Rinse the lentils thoroughly. If using high-quality small lentils, soaking is not necessary.

In a wide saucepan, warm the olive oil over gentle heat. Add the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic. Cook slowly until soft and fragrant, without browning.

Stir in the lentils, bay leaf, and herbs. Coat well in the aromatic base.

Add enough stock or water to cover the lentils by about 3 cm. Bring to a gentle simmer.

Cook uncovered for 25–35 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the lentils are tender but still hold their shape. Add more liquid if needed.

Season with salt and pepper towards the end of cooking. Remove the bay leaf and herb sprigs.

Serving Suggestions and Tips

Serve warm in a shallow bowl, make it glistening with a generous drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

For a salad add a little lemon zest, lemon juice or wine vinegar and for brightness finely chopped parsley.

Pair with sautéed greens, roasted vegetables, or crusty bread.

Roasted vegetables such as pumpkin, carrots and potatoes can be added to lentils for a hot or cold dish.

Store leftovers in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Flavours improve overnight.

Add left over vegetables to lentil salads.

COTECHINO AND LENTILS; NEW YEAR’s EVE and CHRISTMAS

Lentils with Cotechino

Pasta con le Sarde: A Simple recipe for a Sicilian Classic

Pasta con le Sarde is one of Sicily’s most iconic dishes, a simple yet deeply expressive recipe that brings together sardines, fennel, and ingredients that reflect the island’s long and layered history.

**On my blog, there are numerous recipes for Pasta con le Sarde written over many years with many photographs and va. However, I have created a simpler recipe for those who prefer a quicker cooking method during the often busy Christmas season. I had also prepared this recipe for the SBS Italian radio session but there was no time to discuss it. (I always over prepare!) The Italian link to the recipe:PASTA CON LE SARDE, RICETTA SEMPLICE

Sardines are plentiful in Sicilian waters, wild fennel grows freely when in season, and flavours such as pine nuts, currants, and saffron speak clearly of the Arab influence that shaped so much of Sicilian cooking. The finishing touch, muddica atturrata — toasted breadcrumbs — replaces cheese and is unmistakably Sicilian.

I will most likely consider Pasta con le Sarde for the Festive Christmas period.

A Dish Rooted in Sicilian Tradition

This is a dish born of necessity and ingenuity. In Sicily, pasta is eaten almost daily, and pasta con le sarde has long been a way to transform humble, accessible ingredients into something memorable.

When wild fennel is unavailable, cultivated fennel works well. I use the bulb, the fronds, and sometimes a small amount of fennel seed to echo the aroma of the wild plant. Wild fennel is seasonal and in Sicily it is sold in bunches in markets. Sicilians would respect the seasonality of wild fennel and probably cook Pasta con le Sarde  in the right seasons.

Bucatini is my preferred pasta shape, but spaghetti is equally suitable.

Bucatini con Sarde
Ingredients

  • 500 g bucatini, preferred traditional pasta

  • 700 g fresh sardines, cleaned and filleted

  • 200 g wild fennel
    (or 2 large fennel bulb with fronds + 1 tsp fennel seeds)

  • Approximately 3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

  • 2 onions, finely sliced

  • 4 anchovy fillets

  • 1 cup pine nuts

  • 1 cup toasted almonds, roughly chopped (optional)

  • ¾ cup currants

  • ½–1 tsp saffron

  • Salt and black pepper

  • ***4–5 tbsp breadcrumbs, toasted in a frypan with little extra virgin oil. I like to add a pinch of sugar and cinnamon while it is toasting and some finely grated lemon peel.

Method (Simple)
1. Cook the fennel

Boil the wild fennel in salted water for 10–15 minutes.
Reserve the fragrant green cooking water for the pasta.
Drain, squeeze well, and finely chop.

If using cultivated fennel:
Cut the bulb into quarters and boil with the fennel seeds. Save the fronds for later. If there are fennel stalks boil them as well to flavour the water.  Remove the stalks and seeds (drain), chop the fennel, and reserve the water to cook the pasta.

2. Prepare the sauce

In a wide pan, gently cook the onions in the olive oil until soft and golden.

Add the anchovy fillets and stir until they dissolve,
then the pine nuts, currants, and almonds (if using).

Add two-thirds of the sardines, roughly chopped, along with salt, pepper, and some fennel fronds (or a little of the chopped fennel).
Cook gently for 5–10 minutes.

Stir in the cooked fennel and saffron dissolved in a little warm water.

3. Cook the pasta

Cook the bucatini in the reserved fennel water until al dente.
Drain well.

4. Cook the remaining sardines

In a separate pan, lightly fry the remaining sardine fillets.
Set aside for finishing the dish.

5. Assemble

Add the pasta to the sardine sauce and toss gently.
Allow it to rest for 5–10 minutes so the flavours can meld.

Carefully fold in the whole sardine fillets.
Serve topped generously with muddica atturrata.

I did not blanch the almonds in this version of Pasta con Le Sarde. I do not always blanch nuts or toast them to remove their skins.
6. IF YOU WISH TO MAKE THE BAKED VERSION

Grease an oven dish and dust with toasted breadcrumbs.
Layer pasta and sauce, adding a few whole sardines between layers.
Finish with breadcrumbs, a drizzle of olive oil, and optionally a pinch of sugar and cinnamon.

Bake at 200°C for about 10 minutes, until a light crust forms.

SOME OF THE NUMEROUS RECIPES ON MY BLOG

A TASTE OF PALERMO: Pasta con le Sarde

PASTA CON LE SARDE (SARDINES)

PASTA CON LE SARDE, Iconic Sicilian made easy

WILD FENNEL and photos

Recipe in my book, Sicilian Seafood Cooking

PASTA CON LE SARDE, an iconic Sicilian recipe from Palermo. Cooked at Slow Food Festival Melbourne

PASTA CON LE SARDE (Pasta with sardines, from Palermo, made with fennel, pine nuts and currants)

PASTA CON SARDE : the baked version, Palermo, Sicily

MY FAMILY FEAST SBS ONE, my recipes have been selected

WILD FENNEL and photos

PESCE CRUDO ALLA SICILIANA WITH CITRUS AND AROMATICS

Pesce Crudo alla Siciliana is one of the purest expressions of Sicilian seafood and it is: thinly sliced fish, lightly marinated in citrus, and finished with the fresh, aromatic flavours of the island.

In Sicily, raw fish is treated with great respect. A good dish of pesce crudo always begins with fish of extraordinary quality — impeccably fresh, carefully cleaned, and sliced as finely as a carpaccio. The preparation is simple, but the result is vibrant, elegant, and deeply connected to place.

I will definitely Make a Pesce Crudo over the upcoming Festive season.

What Is Pesce Crudo alla Siciliana?

Today, pesce crudo can be prepared with many types of fish and seafood. Delicate white fish fillets, sea urchins, calamari, octopus, prawns (especially red prawns), and scampi are all common. Sardines and anchovies, usually filleted rather than served whole, are also much loved.

What makes the dish unmistakably Sicilian is the choice of garnishes. These echo the island’s landscape and aromas: citrus juice and zest (especially blood orange), capers, olives, salted anchovies, fresh herbs such as mint, oregano, basil, or wild fennel, and often a touch of chilli. Almonds or pistachios add texture, while paper-thin slices of fruit or vegetables — strawberry, peach, vanilla persimmon, cucumber, fennel — Be inventive, bring colour and freshness to the plate.

Choosing the Right Fish in Melbourne

When preparing pesce crudo outside Sicily, freshness and sustainability are essential.

Below is some fish that is better than others when it comes to respect sustainability. Tips for Choosing Sustainable Seafood in Australia

  •  Check the species and fishery region — sustainability can differ significantly by area and stock. GoodFish

  • Look for independent certification labels like the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) for wild seafood. Australia & New Zealand

  • Ask how the fish was caught — line and pole methods generally have lower bycatch and habitat impact than longlines or trawls.

  • Use the GoodFish guide/app for real-time traffic-light ratings of local species

If using tuna, choose yellowfin tuna, ideally line-caught.
some fish that is better than others  –  options for raw preparations in Australia include:

  • Snapper

  • Flathead tails

  • Barramundi

  • Farmed kingfish from South Australia

  • Salmon (sourced from New Zealand)

Always buy from a trusted fishmonger and explain that the fish will be eaten raw.

Thinly Sliced Fish Marinated in Lemon with Sicilian Flavours
Ingredients (serves 2–4)

  • 250–300 g very fresh fish fillets, sliced paper-thin

  • Juice of 2 lemons

  • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

  • Extra virgin olive oil

  • A handful of capers, rinsed

  • Green or black olives, chopped

  • Finely grated zest of blood orange or lemon

  • Fresh herbs: mint, oregano, basil, or wild fennel

  • Fresh chilli, finely sliced (optional)

  • Roughly chopped almonds or pistachios

  • Very thin slices of fruit or vegetables (fennel, cucumber, strawberry, or prickly pear)

Method

Prepare the fish

Arrange the fish slices in a single layer on a serving plate. Lightly season with salt.

Marinate with lemon

Pour over enough lemon juice to just cover the fish. Cover and refrigerate for 10–15 minutes — just long enough for the citrus to lightly “cook” the surface.

Drain and season

Remove and discard the marinade. Dress the fish with extra virgin olive oil, black pepper, and citrus zest.

Add Sicilian flavours

Scatter over the capers, olives, chopped herbs, chilli (if using), and almonds or pistachios.

Finish with fruit or vegetables

Decorate with wafer-thin slices of fennel, cucumber, strawberry, or prickly pear for a fresh, colourful touch.

Serve immediately

This dish should remain bright, light, and impeccably fresh.

Pesce crudo as in a Trattoria in Mondello

GREAT BRITISH CHEFS GREAT ITALIAN CHEFS WEBSITE

** Some time ago I was asked to write three articles about Sicily for Great British Chefs/ Great Italian Chefs Website, one was about PESCE CRUDO

Read the complete article: Pesce crudo: Sicily’s love for raw fish

Photo that accompanies article in Great Italian Chef’s website
The other two articles:

Read the complete article: Culture clash: how North Africa changed Sicily forever

Read the complete article: Sicilian arancini: a complete guide

GREAT BRITISH CHEFS, GREAT ITALIAN CHEFS, Feature articles by Marisa Raniolo Wilkins

Other recipes on my blog about sustainable fish :

Raw fish:

PESCE CRUDO, raw fish dishes in Sicily

SARDINE, CRUDE E CONDITE (Sardines; raw and marinaded)

Photo from Sicilian Seafood Cooking. Food stylist Fiona Rigg, photogapher Graeme Gilles.

Sustainability

PASTA CON LE SARDE, an iconic Sicilian recipe from Palermo. Cooked at Slow Food Festival Melbourne

SUSTAINABLE SHELLFISH: Choices Shape the Sea’s Future

THE HUMBLE SARDINE, A SUSTAINABLE CHOICE

SHARKS IN PERIL. Recipe: Pesce in Pastella; fish in batter

ADELAIDE CENTRAL MARKET AT FAIR SEAFOOD

FAIR SEAFOOD, Adelaide Central Market

Soused fish:

PISCI ALL’ AGGHIATA – PESCE ALL’AGLIATA (Soused fish with vinegar, garlic and bay)

MARINADED FISH and a recipe for PESCE IN SAOR

CHEAT FOOD FOR LAUNCH OF SICILIAN SEAFOOD COOKING AT COASIT AND READINGS: Marinaded white anchovies AND Olive Schacciate made with commercially prepared olives

PIZZAIOLA: NAPLES, CAMPANIA

Pizzaiola (or alla pizzaiola) is a traditional, rustic Italian cooking style that uses simple ingredients from Naples, in the Campania region of southern Italy. It’s about simmering meat, typically inexpensive cuts of beef or veal in a rich tomato-based sauce seasoned with garlic, olive oil, parsley, and oregano.

The term pizzaiola comes from pizzaiolo, meaning “pizza maker,” and refers to the similarity between the sauce used in this dish and the classic Neapolitan pizza sauce. Both share basic ingredients like tomatoes, garlic, oregano, and olive oil that became iconic toppings after the 18th century, when tomatoes were fully integrated into southern Italian cuisine.

Carne alla pizzaiola is a perfect example of cucina povera – the “cuisine of the poor” – no-fuss cooking where simple, inexpensive ingredients are changed into flavourful meals.

The Meat: Tender or Tough. Quick Cooking or Slow Cooking?

Thin slices of beef (1cm)—such as fettine di manzo—are ideal for quick cooking. Cuts like Scotch fillet, porterhouse, or rump are tender enough for short simmering times.

But pizzaiola is also a great way to cook tougher cuts like blade steak, shoulder (spalla), or round (girello). I recently made it with topside and have used this cut of meat in previous times and after a longer, slow simmer, the meat became tender in the sauce.

Pizzaiola: Seasonal Variations

One of the joys of pizzaiola is how adaptable it is to the seasons:

Winter (with canned tomatoes):

I prefer to sear the meat first to add depth of flavour. Then, I gently cook garlic (sometimes whole cloves) in olive oil, add the canned tomatoes and oregano, and simmer the sauce for 10 minutes before adding the meat and parsley.

Summer (with fresh tomatoes):

When tomatoes are ripe and flavourful, I don’t sear. I combine raw meat with peeled, diced fresh tomatoes, herbs, oil and garlic right from the start—no pre-cooking. It’s lighter and fresher.

I often add sliced potatoes (just like my mother did). If using quick-cooking meat, slice potatoes thinly; for longer cooking cuts, slice them thicker so everything finishes together.

Classic Carne alla Pizzaiola (with Potatoes)

Serves 2

Ingredients:

  • 2–4 thin or medium-cut beef slices
  • 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
  • 400g tin crushed or peeled tomatoes, cut into chunks
  • 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 tsp dried oregano or 3 tbsp chopped fresh oregano
  • Salt & cracked black pepper to taste
  • 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley

Optional: 3–4 medium potatoes (Desiree or Sebago), peeled and cut into thick slices.

Instructions:

  • Heat olive oil in a large frypan over medium heat.
  • Add sliced garlic and cook gently until fragrant—don’t let it brown.
  • Sear beef steaks for 1–2 minutes per side to brown lightly.
  • Distribute potato slices (if using) between the meat.
  • Add tomatoes, oregano, salt, pepper, and parsley over the meat and potatoes.
  • Cover the pan, lower the heat, and simmer for 15–20 minutes (or 40-50mins for tougher cuts), turning steaks once. The sauce will thicken and the meat will become tender.

 

As you would expect I have written about Pizzaiola  in a previous post:

PIZZAIOLA (Steak cooked alla pizzaiola with tomatoes and herbs)

A few other braises:

GULASCH (Goulash as made in Trieste)

BRAISED KID (capretto) in a simple marinade of red wine, extra virgin olive oil and herbs

SPEZZATINO DI CAPRETTO (Italian Goat/ Kid stew)

POLLO OR GALLINA ALLA CONTADINA, ALLA PAESANA. Braised Chicken with Olives, Sicilian style.

BRAISED FENNEL – fragrant

I make braised fennel very often, so often, in fact, that I’ve never bothered to write a post about one of the ways to enjoy this vegetable in a fragrant broth.

Of course raw fennel is marvellous too, but fennel can be cooked in various ways and here is the recipe.

Preparing fennel is a straightforward process, and I employ the Italian culinary technique known as ‘cucina all’occhio’. This technique entails making intuitive  decisions based on culinary expertise and knowledge.

Although there is no specific recipe, here are some general guidelines that I find helpful:

I always include herbs like parsley, fresh bay leaves, and minced garlic. If I have rosemary, thyme, or tarragon, I might add one of these too. Sometimes I add a little butter. This enhances the sauce and makes it velvety.

 

 

sectioned fennel with fronds and herbs

I always braise with stock – chicken or vegetable, that I stock in the freezer and I always add a splash of wine. That’s a northern Italian touch, not Sicilian.

If there’s some Cinzano Extra Dry vermouth that I have around, I’ll use that instead of the wine, especially if I have used tarragon. I’ve also used Pernod, which of course enhances the aniseed flavour. The ratio is simple: about 1 part alcohol to 8 parts stock.

PROCESS

Use a saucepan with a lid that fits the fennel snugly and allows enough room for liquid.

Clean and prepare the fennel: Cut off the stalks and discard them. Save the younger fronds—the wispy pale green ones.

I like to keep the leaves of the bulb intact as they cook, so I only trim part of the tough core. Then I cut the bulb into quarters.

Heat a little extra virgin olive oil in the pan. Lightly pan-fry the fennel quarters until lightly golden on both sides.

Lower the heat, add the stock and wine (or vermouth/ Pernod), the herbs, and a bit of minced garlic. The liquid should come about halfway up the fennel.

Cover and braise gently until the fennel is tender but still holding its shape.

If there’s too much liquid at the end, just remove the lid  towards the end of the cooking process and let it reduce a little.

Of course, fennel is also great when it is  simply baked… I just include it on the baking tray with potatoes (and other vegetables), but here are a couple of other cooked fennel recipes:

STUFFED BAKED FENNEL WITH PANGRATTATO; FINOCCHI RIPIENI

TORTINO DI FINOCCHI (A flan of cooked fennel)

FENNEL CAPONATA (Sicilian sweet and sour method for vegetables)

 

SOUTHERN ITALY: Caciocavallo and ’Nduja

I’ve long been familiar with caciocavallo cheese and ’nduja, but I always enjoy discovering new things about food and produce.

Being Italian I enjoy the endless journey through traditions, family stories, unique regions and small producers who put their heart into every ingredient. Researching Italian food is discovering a world inside every dish.

Recently, I visited a small restaurant that focuses on Southern Italian cuisine and had two dishes that sparked my curiosity.

The first was a caciocavallo that came from Puglia and not Sicily, as I was expecting. (Below is  a photo of the classic shape of caciocavallo)

The second was ’nduja, Calabria’s famously spicy, spreadable salume (small good). It was served warm in a small terracotta warmer, ready for dipping with some house-made warm focaccia. I’d never seen it served this way. At home, I tend to slice it like salame and serve it with some quality bread, in a much more rustic manner.

I find it fascinating how produce reflects the unique identity of each region. It’s all thanks to the geography, animal husbandry, and traditional techniques that shape what we grow and eat. A cheese is the flavour of the land, the animals that graze there, and the those that made it. The caciocavallo, from Southern Italy, has maintained its authenticity despite being mass-produced. Its Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) classification safeguards its unique characteristics.

The ‘nduja, which was traditionally made by hand after a pig was slaughtered, is now mass-produced, but traditional recipes remain largely unchanged.

Naturally, I had questions to ask at the restaurant. Fortunately, a passionate, food-loving waiter from Messina was happy to share his knowledge. What I love most about Italians is how even the simplest ingredients and recipes carry the weight of local pride. Thanks to his enthusiasm, I left with a deeper appreciation for these two iconic Southern Italian specialties and a strong urge to verify everything he told me.

Sometimes all it takes is a chatty, informative waiter to turn a good meal into an even better culinary experience. The list of Italian wines was also very good and again this waiter was happy to share his knowledge.

Caciocavallo

Caciocavallo is produced across several Southern Italian regions: Sicily, Basilicata, Calabria, Campania, Molise, and Puglia. However, I’ve always associated this cheese with Sicily, especially as it is made in Ragusa.

My paternal family roots are in Ragusa (photo above), so over the years I have visited Sicily many times. I developed a strong sense of pride around Caciocavallo Ragusano . This is made from the milk of Modica cows (Modica is a city close to Ragusa) that graze the wild pastures of the Iblei plateau. The cheese is rich and earthy, due to the wild herbs in the cows’ diet. My relatives led me to believe that this was the best caciocavallo, with all others being somewhat inferior. And I believed them.

I have eaten cheese produced by families in the region of Ragusa and, like my relatives, I appreciate caciocavallo very much. The caciocavallo cheeses The cheeses are the classic gourd or teardrop shape and are hung in pairs over a wooden beam (“cacio a cavallo” means “cheese on horseback”). It is appreciated as an aged cheese, but also when relatively fresh.

At the restaurant, I was offered Caciocavallo Podolico from Puglia. This local cheese is made from the milk of Podolica cows, a breed raised in southern Italy. Unlike cheese from Ragusa, Caciocavallo Podolico is aged for up to 36 months in natural caves. The cows feed on wild, aromatic herbs in a different terroir, giving the cheese a bold, intense flavour.

The restaurant served it pan-fried, warm, with a drizzle of honey and chilli flakes. The honey reminded me of how I’ve eaten pecorino in Liguria, not warmed.

Eating the caciocavallo from Puglia broadened my horizons beyond the exclusive patriotism for Ragusa-produced caciocavallo.

’Nduja

 ’Nduja is a soft, fermented, pork Calabrian salume made with about 30% chili peppers. Cured in natural casings, it remains spreadable because of the high fat content and fermentation.

Over the years, I have incorporated ‘nduja into various dishes and sauces, and have also enjoyed it sliced and served with bread, but I had never encountered it served warm. At the restaurant, it was presented in a unique warmer equipped with a small flame, ensuring a molten state and an opportunity to be scooped up with bread. This presentation is known as ‘scalda ‘nduja‘.

Here are a couple of ideas for enjoying these ingredients at home:

Pan-fried Caciocavallo: pan fry  in very little oil thick slices until golden, then drizzle with some quality honey and a sprinkle of chilli flakes. Look for DOP or regional varieties at specialty Italian shops.

Warm ’Nduja: Gently heat a slice in a ramekin in the microwave or small pan and serve with warm bread for dipping.. The restaurant served it with focaccia.

I’ve written other posts, especially about ‘nduja that may stimulate more adventures in the kitchen:

Squid with ‘nduja

‘NDUJA

NDUJA, a spreadable and spicy pork salame from Calabria

NDUJA, was considered peasant food in Calabria

PASTA with ‘NDUJA, CIME DI RAPA and PORK SAUSAGES

NDUJA with SQUID, very simple

NDUJA and CALAMARI as a pasta sauce

NDUJA, SQUID, VONGOLE AND PAN GRATTATO with Spaghetti

CACIOCAVALLO and similar cheese

SICILIAN CHEESE MAKING. A VISIT TO A MASSARO (farmer-cheese maker) IN RAGUSA. Formaggio argentiera

There are many recipes that include Caciocavallo as an ingredient  –  use the search button on my blog.

Below, photo of Ragusa.

EASTER IN SICILY: Faith, Spring, History and Cassata

Easter in Sicily is more than a religious celebration, it’s a mix of faith, spring, history and cassata.

It is a time when the sacred rituals and the everyday come together. It reminds people of the past, celebrates the present, and looks forward to the future with hope.

EASTER HOLY WEEK CELEBRATIONS IN SICILY

Religion, especially Catholicism, is at the heart of life in Sicily, and this is most visible during Holy Week and the Easter Celebrations. From Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday, towns and cities across the island are filled with devotion and tradition.

Sicilian religious cart used for Religious processions.

On Good Friday, processions move slowly through the old streets. During the week churches are filled with music, the smell of incense, and quiet prayers; these rituals passed down through generations.

Catania, Santa Agata.

Easter Sunday marks the resurrection of Christ and brings a sense of festivity after the solemn days leading up to it. But Easter also connects with something older and more natural: the arrival of spring. As winter fades, nature comes back to life—trees bud, flowers bloom, and the days grow longer. It’s a time of new beginnings and hope.

Easter procession in Enna,confraternities.

EASTER CEREMONIES IN ENNA

Some Easter traditions in Sicily have roots that go back even further than Christianity. In Enna, for example, a priest blesses the fields, praying for good crops and weather. This ceremony likely comes from ancient agricultural customs.

Enna, Easter Holy Week confraternities.

One of the most striking events is the procession of fifteen local confraternities, each with its own unique clothing and customs. This tradition dates back to the 15th to 17th centuries and shows the influence of Spanish rule on Sicilian religious life. I was in Enna during easter time a while back.

Enna,confraternities.

EASTER CELEBRATORY FOOD – CASSATA

With any festivity in Sicily, food plays an essential role—and Easter is no exception.

Alongside the religious rituals and springtime renewal, special dishes take centre stage.

Classic Cassata

One of the most iconic Easter desserts is the elaborate Sicilian cassata

While there are several versions of cassata – including a frozen ricotta and sponge cake version known as cassata gelata, and a baked pastry version filled with sweetened ricotta, known as cassata in forno, the most famous is the highly decorated traditional classic cassata.

Cassata al forno

Traditional classic cassata

This eye-catching, baroque-style cake is usually topped with colourful glacé fruits and candied citrus peel. It’s a dessert that isn’t typically made at home but is crafted by skilled pasticceri (pastry makers) in Sicily’s many historic pastry shops (pasticcerie).  Some that have been in operation for generations.

In this is the case with most Italians, they leave the pastry making to the experts.

Classic Cassata

The classic Sicilian cassata is made of three main parts. First, there’s a soft sponge cake, often moistened with a splash of liqueur and used to line the mould. Inside is a rich, sweetened ricotta filling, made with sheep’s milk (sweeter than cow’s milk) and mixed with small pieces of candied citrus and dark chocolate. Finally, the entire cake is covered with a layer of green marzipan or a smooth glaze of sugar icing, then decorated with intricate patterns and colourful candied fruits.

Classic Cassata

HISTORICAL NOTES

But cassata is more than just a dessert – it’s a layered representation of Sicily’s complex cultural and historical past and its origins are believed to reflect the many cultures that have shaped the island. The name cassata may come from the Arabic qas’ah, meaning “bowl,” referring to the traditional mould used to shape the cake. The Arabs introduced sugar to Sicily, along with candied fruits, which are key ingredients in the cake. The sponge cake, called Pan di Spagna in Italian, likely came from the Spanish, while the elaborate icing and presentation were influenced by the Monsù – French-trained chefs who worked in aristocratic Sicilian households in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Some of these chefs were French, while others came from Piedmont, a region in northern Italy that was under French control during that time. These Monsù added a touch of French elegance and flair to traditional Sicilian cooking, turning simple ingredients into refined and artistic dishes. Cassata, with its rich mix of flavours, textures, and cultural layers, is a perfect example.

While the traditional cassata is a showstopper, not everyone has the time, or the team of expert pasticceri to make such an elaborate creation.

MY HOMEMADE CASSATA

Homemade Cassata with green marzipan.

I have made many cassate (plural) at home, the last one was probably approximately three years ago.

Homemade Cassata with almond marzipan and green pistachio marzipan.

DECONSTRUCTED CASSATA RECIPE

Tastes change, people’s diets do as well and I now have a more enjoyable method of utilising the same delectable flavours in a simpler manner. By employing the classic ingredients, I have crafted various versions of a deconstructed cassata-inspired dessert, such as the deconstructed cassata below where I added strawberries. I have made a few of these and they have always been a success.

Deconstructed Cassata.

the next time, I intend to serve the deconstructed cassata in a large wine glass. This presentation will be both easy to prepare and visually appealing. Furthermore, my previous deconstructed cassata retains the essence of the original, while eliminating the complexities associated with traditional preparation.

Deconstructed Cassata in a Glass

Ingredients (4 – 6 people)

* 500 g fresh ricotta, combined with a splash of thick cream (adjust the quantity to achieve a creamy consistency)

* 100 g caster sugar (or honey or Monk Fruit, as a sugar substitute)

* A few drops of vanilla concentrate

* Orange and citron (cedro) peel, soaked in Cointreau for at least a couple of hours. I use this French Liqueur because it is very orange flavoured.

* Small pieces of exceptionally dark chocolate

* Savoiardi (sponge fingers or Pan di Spagna/sponge cake) for use as a base or topping. Please refer to the “To Serve” section below for an estimate of the required quantities.

Marzipan leaves

* 100 g blanched almond meal

* 100 g icing sugar

* 1 egg white

* 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

* 1 drop of green food dye

Method:

Combine the marzipan ingredients in a bowl and knead until smooth. If the mixture is excessively wet, add more almond meal or sugar. I frequently a greater ratio to sugar.  Roll the marzipan thinly between two sheets of baking paper and cut into leaf shapes. These marzipan leaves serve as a delightful garnish and a playful tribute to the traditional decoration.

To Serve:

Experiment with the composition of the dessert. Here are a couple of suggestions:

* Place 1-2 Savoiardi (sponge fingers) or some sponge cake on the bottom of the glass and lightly brush it with the reserved Cointreau.

* Spread the creamy ricotta mixture over the sponge layer.

* Top the ricotta layer with another layer of sponge or savoiardi moistened with the reserved Cointreau. Top with some Marzipan leaves.

Alternatively, you can create a layered dessert by alternating between the ricotta mixture and the sponge layer, with each layer lightly brushed with Cointreau.

I prefer this one:

*Spoon generous layers of the ricotta mixture into large wine glasses.

*Garnish with marzipan leaves and 1-2 dry Savoiardi biscuits (not soaked in Cointreau) nestled into the glass, allowing you to scoop up the ricotta with the biscuits. Top with Marzipan leaves. Drink Cointreau on the side.

These are versions of reimagined cassata – less formal, enjoyable and may be more sympathetic of people’s tastes and diet, but still embodying Sicilian character. Ideal for when you desire to serve something visually appealing and steeped in tradition, without dedicating hours to the kitchen.

CASSATA DECONSTRUCTED; a postmodernist take on Sicilian Cassata

EASTER (Pasqua) in Sicily

CASSATA Explained with photos

CASSATA ( Post no. 2) Calls for a celebration!!!

EASTER SICILIAN SPECIALTIES …. Cuddura cù ova, Pecorelle Pasquali

SCACCE and PIZZA and SICILIAN EASTER

EASTER IN SICILY – A SICILIAN FEAST IN RAGUSA – Recipes and Giuggiulena

EASTER (Pasqua) in Sicily

 

ZUCCHINI FLOWERS and Preserved Artichokes

My generous friend who has space in her garden for zucchini plants and is able to collect their flowers has been lavishing me with kindness once again. She surprised me with a small brown paper bag with some of her zucchini blooms.

Unfortunately, the colder temperatures and rain aren’t friends of these delicate blossoms, and I think that this last gift could be my last.

Zucchini flowers can be prepared in various interesting culinary methods. However, due to their short shelf life, I prefer to cook them the same day I receive them, regardless of my schedule.

Sometimes, the best meals come together quickly with what you have on hand. With a few fresh ingredients and a bit of creativity, you can easily make a delicious dish that’s both satisfying and flavourful.

I therefore select the easiest and quickest option taking the ingredients I have at hand to achieve a satisfactory outcome.

I had pale-skinned zucchini, spring onions, fresh basil, saffron, and a jar of preserved artichokes. Since fresh artichokes aren’t in season right now, the preserved ones in oil added just the right touch, bringing a rich and tangy flavour to the dish and transforming it into something memorable. A little stock and a generous knob of butter rounded everything off, making for a simple yet delicious pasta sauce dressing.

The photos below should explain the cooking method.

Cut zucchini in half (I used 3), then quarters, and toss in hot pan with extra virgin olive oil. Cook for about 5 minutes. I like to cook these separately and not overcook them to preserve their unique flavour and their shape. Remove them from the pan and set aside. 

Slice 3 spring onions and sauté in extra virgin olive oil.

Add the flowers and basil, then sauté briefly. At this stage I also added a bit of saffron that I had been soaking in about 1/2 cup of stock.

I added the drained artichokes (I cut them in halves), warmed them, then added the cooked zucchini.

I finished with a generous lump of butter.

The type of pasta was rigatoni.

This dish tasted and smelled like Spring, brightening our dull Melbourne day. A friend came to dinner that evening and it was her first time for zucchini flowers.

She left very content.  

ZUCCHINI FLOWERS, A Simple, Sweet Delight

STUFFED ZUCCHINI FLOWERS

EGG PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI FLOWERS, ZUCCHINI, PINE NUTS and STRACCIATELLA (egg drop)

 

ZUCCHINI FLOWERS, A Simple, Sweet Delight

When a friend generously shares some of her freshly picked zucchini flowers from her garden, don’t you simply hug her?

As an ingredient, zucchini flowers are treasured in various cuisines for their subtle flavour and unique texture. Of course, this is the case in Italy. 

I wanted to cook them very simply to preserve the delicate, sweet taste of the flowers. Basil is a soft herb and plentiful at the moment growing on my balcony. I made a frittata and a pasta sauce – both delicate and sweet tasting.

What Are Zucchini Flowers? 

Zucchini flowers (courgette flowers in some parts of the world) are the edible blooms from the zucchini plant. Typically, the male flowers are harvested for culinary purposes, as they do not develop into zucchini. Male flowers feature a long, thin stalk, whereas female flowers sit at the end of the budding fruit. Their yellow-orange petals are visually appealing, and they have a mild, slightly sweet flavour that complements a variety of dishes. 

Due to their delicate nature, zucchini flowers are tricky to purchase. They wilt quickly after being picked, which makes them a rare find in supermarkets and even at farmers’ markets. Occasionally, they might be sold still attached to the zucchini, which helps preserve their freshness. And this is why I am so grateful when a friend takes time to collect them and bring them fresh. 

I stored them in a glass bowl, sealed them and put them in the fridge. The first day I used them to make a frittata. She bought me some more the next day and I cooked a pasta dish (recipe below).

Culinary Uses  

Zucchini flowers are a versatile ingredient and can be prepared in numerous ways. A popular method is to stuff them, dipping them in batter before gently frying them to create a crispy, savoury treat. When preparing zucchini flowers, it’s important to handle them with care so gently wash them under cold water. The stamen from inside the flower can be removed if you wish.  

To stuff zucchini flowers, carefully open the petals and place a small spoonful of filling inside. Gently twist the petals to close them around the stuffing. Dip the stuffed flowers in a light batter and fry them in hot oil until golden brown. They are delicious starter dish.  

They can also be used for frittata, soups, and pasta dishes.

PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI, BASIL AND ZUCCHINI FLOWERS

This fresh, simple yet elegant pasta dish uses sautéed zucchini, with quite a bit of fresh basil leaves and stock. I used spirally and once dressed in this buttery, aromatic sauce, I topped the pasta with lightly sautéed zucchini flowers and more basil. There was plenty of grated Parmesan cheese for a perfect finishing touch. I also grated some fresh nutmeg on to the pasta to complement its’ fresh taste. I used Parmesan because it is more delicate than Pecorino and as an alternative, I would have been happy with fresh ricotta.

 

For 2-4 people, depending if it is an entrée or main

Ingredients:

6 zucchini, (or more) sliced or cut into cubes

4 tbsp butter (divided)

20+fresh basil leaves

stock – vegetable or chicken (about 1cup)

200g (or more) short pasta

12 zucchini flowers, gently cleaned

freshly grated Parmesan cheese, to serve

salt and pepper to taste

freshly ground nutmeg

Instructions:

Cook Zucchini:  In a large pan, melt 2 tablespoon of butter over medium heat. Add the zucchini, season with salt and pepper, and sauté for about 10 -15 minutes until it softens and begins to caramelize. Add splashes stock if it starts to stick. Pour in the rest of the stock and cook to your liking Add about half of the basil leaves during the last couple minutes of cooking so they infuse the zucchini with their fragrance. Once done, set aside and keep warm.

Cook the Pasta: While the veggies cook, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and cook the pasta according to the package instructions. Reserve a little pasta cooking water before draining, in case you need to thin out your sauce. My pasta had sufficient stock and I did not need to do this.

Sauté the Zucchini Flowers: While the pasta cooks, heat the remaining butter in a small pan over medium heat. Add the zucchini flowers and sauté quickly for a couple of minutes until they wilt slightly. Add the fresh basil leaves sauté until they slightly soften. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Assemble the Dish: Once the pasta is drained, toss it into the pan with the cooked zucchini mixture. If the sauce looks too thick, add a little of the reserved pasta cooking water to help coat the pasta. Stir everything together to ensure the pasta is well-coated

Serve: Plate the pasta, and top with the sautéed zucchini flowers. Grate some fresh nutmeg on top

Present it with freshly grated Parmesan cheese (and a few extra basil leaves for garnish, if you wish).

Below: photo of Ravioloni (large ravioli) with zucchini flowers pan fried in some butter and sage as a dressing.

The frittata was extremely simple. I had some Brie in the fridge (cut into large slices) and used the flowers, fresh basil leaves, eggs and Brie. Once again I used butter.

EGG PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI FLOWERS, ZUCCHINI, PINE NUTS and STRACCIATELLA (egg drop) 

STUFFED ZUCCHINI FLOWERS

MAKING FRITTATA Podcast with Maria Liberati

 

 

SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD, current information and recipes

Sustainable Seafood Choices: Making the Right Decisions, Christmas 2024.

For many people who live in Australia seafood is a staple during the Christmas  and New Year period. This may come as a suprise but, with over 6 million kilograms of prawns consumed each year during this time, it’s important to be mindful of the environmental impact of our choices.

It also a good idea to check labels for fish, for example I only buy Australian seafood and there are many reasons to buy Australian seafood – sustainability, environmental impact and quality. Australian seafood producers often have  sustainability certifications from the Marine Stewardship Council and Aquaculture Stewardship Council. 

Whether it’s prawns, oysters, or a beautiful whole fish, for most Australians it appears that the Christmas and New Year’s festive season wouldn’t feel the same without some seafood.

Not only Italians, but people of different cultures who have a Catholic background abstain from eating meat on Christmas Eve, and fish is a preferred choice.

In recent years, it has been beneficial to see information via the media guiding shoppers to make more informed, sustainable seafood choices. This is crucial not only to protect marine species, but also to ensure that we’re supporting seafood industries that are committed to the health of our oceans.

Here’s a summary of some important information and guidance from what i have read and heard on sustainable seafood in the last few weeks. Hopefully it  may help us make the right choices this holiday season. I have also included some seafood recipes at the end of this post.

The Environmental Impact of Seafood Consumption

As the demand for seafood grows, so do the pressures on our oceans and marine life, with issues like bycatch, pollution, and unsustainable farming practices becoming more widespread.

Australia’s appetite for seafood during the Christmas season has a significant environmental cost. For instance, the production of prawns can lead to habitat destruction, pollution, and unsustainable fishing practices, all of which harm marine ecosystems. Bycatch – the capture of non-target species – is a major concern, and certain farming practices, particularly for prawns, have been linked to sea bed deforestation and high pollution levels.

One of the most reliable resources for navigating the complexities of sustainable seafood is the Australian Marine Conservation Society’s GoodFish Guide, which provides helpful advice on what to buy, and what to avoid, based on the sustainability of fishing methods and farm practices.

Just like the tureen above making the right choice can be confusing, What may be sustainable in one country, state or location, will not be sustainable in another. And also, what was sustainable last year may not be on the good choice list this year. And while we are discussing changes, I have been promoting wild caught fish for many years but now, I am not so sure about making generalisations! It all depends on the fishery. (Unfortunately, I cannot remember what Art Gallery in NY this photo was from.)

Unsustainable Choices to Avoid

Some popular seafood items are unfortunately not as environmentally friendly as  promoted. This year I have been hearing strong criticism about Tasmanian salmon. Mind you, many of us already knew this, but lately the views expressed in the media have been particularly damming.

The GoodFish Guide advises against purchasing farm-raised Tasmanian salmon that has been linked to high pollution levels in the waters where it’s farmed depriving other fish of oxygen.Tasmania’s salmon farming industry has been controversial due to environmental damage, animal welfare concerns, and a lack of regulation. Salmon farming has led to dead zones in Macquarie Harbour due to low oxygen levels, and has impacted the Macquarie Harbour Wilderness World Heritage Area.

There are warnings about the potential extinction of the Maugean skate, a rare species found only in Tasmania,

There are between 40 and 120 adult Maugean skate left on the planet, and the federal government’s threatened species committee said in August 2024 the best way to save the endangered fish was to eliminate or at least dramatically cut back on salmon farming in its habitat.
The committee said there was a ‘significant correlation’ between low oxygen levels and an increase in salmon farming. Farmed fish suck up a lot of the oxygen in the water, while fish food and faeces that enter the water via the salmon pens feed oxygen-consuming bacteria causing extreme degradation of marine ecosystems surrounding these farms.
Another seafood to avoid is imported vannamei prawns (also known as white leg shrimp), commonly sourced from countries like Vietnam. These prawns are often farmed in ways that cause significant environmental damage, including water pollution and the destruction of mangroves. Furthermore, prawn farming in these regions is notorious for its high use of antibiotics and chemicals, which can harm local biodiversity and contaminate waterways.

Sustainable Alternatives for Christmas Seafood

But there are plenty of sustainable seafood options available that won’t compromise the environmental values or budget.

One great alternative offered is Australian salmon, which is native to the region and is typically caught using low-impact, sustainable methods. Unlike farmed Tasmanian salmon, wild-caught Australian salmon has a much smaller environmental footprint and provides a local, sustainable option for your Christmas feast. I have included some notes and a recipe about this fish towards the end of this post.

Farm-raised Australian prawns – especially varieties like black tiger and banana prawns – are an excellent sustainable option. These prawns are farmed in environmentally controlled systems with a much lower impact than their imported counterparts. They are often cheaper than wild-caught prawns because of lower labor costs and can be just as tasty. Additionally, some of Australia’s Spencer Gulf prawns are both affordable and sustainable, making them an excellent choice for a Christmas seafood platter.

Another more sustainable option is farm-raised barramundi. While wild-caught barramundi, particularly those caught using destructive gillnets, is often considered harmful to marine life, farmed barramundi has a far less damaging environmental impact. The Australian barramundi farming industry is highly regulated, ensuring that practices meet high environmental and animal welfare standards.

Wild-Caught vs. Farmed: Navigating the Choices

In the face of these sustainability challenges, it’s also important to consider the difference between wild-caught and farmed seafood. Both have their pros and cons. Wild-caught fish can suffer from overfishing and bycatch, especially when fisheries are poorly managed. However, Australian fisheries are typically subject to strict regulations, which means that wild-caught Australian species like prawns, barramundi, and rock lobster are generally more sustainable than wild-caught seafood from other regions.

Farmed seafood, on the other hand, can be more environmentally friendly if the farming practices are responsible. In fact, well-managed fish farms can actually have a smaller carbon footprint and less environmental impact than some forms of wild-caught fishing. It’s key to check where and how the seafood is farmed. Sustainable farms use environmentally responsible practices such as efficient feed management, waste control, and low-impact farming systems.

Sustainable Seafood: Affordable Options for Every Budget

Sustainable seafood can sometimes be more expensive, but there are affordable options available. For example, Australian salmon and farmed prawns are not only eco-friendly choices but are also budget-friendly compared to some of their imported or wild-caught alternatives. By opting for these, we can support local industries and make a real difference in the health of our oceans.

This Christmas, consider making a conscious decision to choose sustainable options. Not only will you be making a positive impact on the environment, but you’ll also be supporting Australia’s local fishing and farming communities, ensuring that these industries remain viable for future generations.

In summary, being an informed seafood consumer doesn’t have to be difficult. By using resources like the GoodFish guide and prioritising sustainable Australian seafood, we can all enjoy delicious meals that are kind to the planet.

From Australian salmon and farmed prawns to sustainably farmed barramundi, there are plenty of options that are both eco-friendly and affordable. It’s about making smarter choices, so that we can continue to enjoy the bounty of the ocean – without compromising its future.

Recipes

Not all sustainable seafood is mentioned in what I have read or listened to. For example squid, mussels and sardines have always been on the better choice list. Explore the options:

GoodFish Guide

There are many recipes for Mussels, Squid and Sardines on my blog, far too many to list here. Here are just a few.

MUSSELS, three ways: in brodetto, with spaghetti and in a risotto with saffron

NDUJA, SQUID, VONGOLE AND PAN GRATTATO with Spaghetti

GRILLED CALAMARI (CALAMARI ‘NTA BRACI (Sicilian) – CALAMARI ALLA BRACE (Italian)

SARDINES, grilled or barbecued with Sicilian dressings

There are far too many recipes for seafood on my blog (pasta, rice, raw, cooked in various ways), but this link could be helpful:

LA VIGILIA (Christmas Eve revisited)

This year, Australian salmon seems to feature strongly as a sustainable choice. This fish was abundant in South Australia where I lived for many years and I am used to cooking it. But because it is a strong tasting fish, I would recommend baking it  whole or filleted and using strong flavours like anchovies, garlic and onion.  The flavour of this fish also responds to strong tasting herbs. I would never cook it by steaming or enveloping with foil to bake; it is far too fishy, even for me.

BAKED FISH WITH POTATOES, VINEGAR and ANCHOVIES

Cooking Autralian salmon on a grill on the BBQ will also suit this fish. The charred flavour will mask the fishy taste of the fish and enhance the flavour. Think of sardines on the BBQ and how delicious they are when cooked this way.

Strong tasting sauces will complement the taste of the fish.
And consider using strong tasting herbs and plenty of them, either when cooking  strong tasting fish or for the sauces.

SARDINES, grilled or barbecued with Sicilian dressings

PASTA CON LE SARDE (SARDINES)  (strong flavours – fennel, saffron, currants)

SAUCES for meat, fish and vegetables to brighten up your Christmas

Enjoy cooking, eating, sharing and talking about food!