Category: Italian Regional

ZUCCHINI WITH CURRANTS, PINE NUTS and SAFFRON

The vibrant combination of currants, pine nuts, fennel seeds and saffron brings out the best in zucchini, turning them into something truly special and unusual for most people who may not be familiar with some of these Sicilian flavours.   The combination of these ingredients create rich, complex flavours, both sweet and savory. The result is perfect for any gathering or as a meal at home.

This dish can be enjoyed served cold as a salad, warm or hot as a side or with pasta. It also makes a good strater.

Sometimes I get caught up in thinking that my everyday recipes aren’t worth sharing, but whenever I serve the different versions of this zucchini dish, I always receive compliments from friends, so it’s time to share the recipe.

If you have ever grown zucchini (or zucchine, is the plural form in Italian!), you know that they quickly multiply, leaving you with an abundance, or as some say – a zucchini glut. I remind growers that zucchini flowers are delicious stuffed, in a frittata or in pasta and I am surprised that many people are not aware of  cooking the flowers. They are also delicious incorporated into this pasta dish.

Those fast-growing squashes turn into rather monstrous vegetables if not harvested quickly (called zucche in Italian once they get to a certain size). These are OK in soups, some people stuff them.

Sautéing onions in olive oil forms the base of this zucchini dish, and you gradually add the other ingredients, each enhancing the others. Depending on your preferences, you can keep the zucchini slightly al dente for a salad and cook them down further for a warm side dish or as a pasta dressing.

A Familiar Flavour in Sicilian cooking 

Those familiar with the Sicilian recipe Pasta con le sarde (pasta with sardines)  , or my recipe for pasta with cauliflower, sultanas, currants and anchovies, both on my blog will notice that the ingredients for this zucchini dish closely mirrors those same combination of flavours in those Sicilian pasta dishes. They also bring out the best in zucchini.

I sometimes add anchovies, a common ingredient in Sicilian cooking; it is a simple way to get amazing depth of flavour. On occasions I don’t use saffron and may use a few cherry tomatoes instead. In the photo below, in the jar, are the anchovies.

A splash of white wine and a little vegetable or chicken stock when braising the zucchini  are ingredients that are common in most of my cooking.

Ingredients

For this dish, I usually estimate two small zucchini per person. If they are very small increase the quantities. Here’s what you’ll need:

8 small zucchini (around 2 per person)

4 tablespoons currants (soaked in a cup of warm water)

1 large onion, chopped

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

4 anchovies, finely chopped (optional, but they bring an incredible depth of flavour, use more or less)

2 bay leaves

1 handful fresh parsley, finely chopped

1 tablespoon fennel seeds

3-4 tablespoons pine nuts (toast them beforehand for an extra flavour boost)

1 small teaspoon saffron, soaked in warm water (let it infuse for at least 30 minutes)

salt, to taste, crushed dried chilies (optional, for a bit of heat) or black pepper

Preparation

Cut the zucchini into small batons or thin rings, depending on your preference. I prefer batons for a more unusual cut, but rings work beautifully too.

 

 In a large frying pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the chopped onion and sauté until it becomes soft and translucent. The aroma will already start to fill your kitchen!

Add the anchovies (optional): If using anchovies, add them now, allowing them to melt into the oil. Stir gently with a wooden spoon, and let the anchovies dissolve, infusing the oil with their savory richness.

Add the zucchini pieces to the pan, along with the bay leaves and fennel seeds. Stir gently, letting the zucchini absorb the oil and spices, and allow them to colour lightly. The goal is to get them nicely coated without overcooking. Add salt at this stage but if you have used anchovies check for salt. Add chiliies if you wish.

Drain the currants and add them, the pine nuts, the chopped parsley, and the saffron (along with its soaking liquid). Season with salt and a pinch of crushed dried chilies, if using. Stir everything gently.

Cover the pan and let everything cook on low heat for about 10 -20 minutes, or until the zucchini are tender, but not mushy. You want them to maintain a slight bite, but if you prefer them softer, cook them a bit longer.

For a Pasta Dish

If you’d like to turn this into a pasta dish  here’s how to do it:

Pasta: Use 300g of dry, short pasta for 4-5 people (or more if it’s your main course).

talians often recommend about 100g of pasta per person, but in our household, 500g of pasta is just right for a first course for 6-8 people. For extra flavour, finish the pasta with some freshly grated Pecorino cheese or toasted breadcrumbs

As a topping: Grated Pecorino (is preferred for Sicilian dishes) or Toasted Breadcrumbs

Breadcrumbs: To make the breadcrumbs, lightly fry 100g of day-old, quality bread (such as sourdough or pasta dura) in a little extra virgin olive oil. Add a pinch of grated lemon peel, a dash of cinnamon, and even a bit of sugar while frying for a fragrant, slightly sweet topping. Serve the breadcrumbs separately, so guests can sprinkle them on as they like.

Cook the pasta according to package instructions, then drain it and toss it into the pan with the zucchini mixture. Let the pasta absorb the flavours for about 5 minutes before serving.

PASTA CON LE SARDE (SARDINES)

PASTA CON LE SARDE, Iconic Sicilian made easy

PASTA RIMESTATA COI CAVOFIORI; Pasta with cauliflower, sultanas, pine nuts and anchovies

EGG PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI FLOWERS, ZUCCHINI, PINE NUTS and STRACCIATELLA (egg drop)

STUFFED ZUCCHINI FLOWERS

PASTA CON ZUCCHINE FRITTE (Pasta and fried zucchini)

EGG PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI FLOWERS, ZUCCHINI, PINE NUTS and STRACCIATELLA (egg drop)

COOKING DUCK: Not Just for Special Occasions

Duck is often seen as a luxury dish reserved for special occasions, but it doesn’t have to be – whether minced, whole or breasts.

On my blog, I have some recipes that show how versatile and accessible cooking duck can be.

Sicilian Duck with Olives and Anchovies: Anatra a Papparedda cu Ulivi

In Sicilian cuisine, ducks are somewhat rare, but the flavours of Anatra a Papparedda cu Ulivi, are bold and unexpected combinations. The word ulivi means olives in Sicilian, and in this dish, green olives and anchovies in the sauce make this dish truly distinctive. The whole duck is roasted first.

Sicilian Duck with green olives and anchovies; Anatra a Papparedda cu ulivi

Duck Ragù

For a  very special pasta dish a Duck Ragù (Ragout) is a recipe that is made with minced duck, the method and ingredients are like the recipe for a traditional bolognese. A Duck and Mushroom Ragù  gives the opportunity to enjoy portions of the duck (with bones if you wish) and/or use the ragù to dress the pasta.

Egg pasta is usually the choice of pasta for game meats, but any shape of pasta will be elevated to a supreme level with duck.

RIGATONI CON RAGU: ANATRA (Duck Ragout)

DUCK AND MUSHROOM RAGÙ

Duck Breast: Simple 

Duck breasts are one of the most affordable and versatile cuts of duck. Easy to prepare, they cook quickly and, with just a few ingredients, can be transformed into an impressive dish.

The beauty of duck breast lies in its simplicity – crispy skin and tender meat, with minimal effort.

DUCK BREAST, ALCOHOL and EMBELLISHMENTS

Leftovers: Transforming Duck into New Creations

I don’t let leftovers go to waste! they either get eaten as they are or get used in other recipies to enrich the taste of the new. In the post below, I share how to take leftover pan-fried duck breasts and turn them into a completely new dish. With other added ingredients to the cooked duck breast and a drizzle of parsley oil (or even labneh), you can create a refreshing duck salad that’s as delicious as it is resourceful.

LEFTOVERS: from Duck and Dried Sour Cherries to New Dishes

Camping, easy cooking

Duck breasts cooked very quickly and very enjoyable…. even when camping.

GLAM COOKING ON THE ROAD; Camping

Cooking Potatoes with duck fat

Below, duck breasts with cumquats and roast potatoes.

Patate in teccia, hail from Trieste. The potatoes are precooked and then smashed and recooked in olive oil, but of course cooking them in duck fat makes them very special.

PATATE as a contorno (Two recipes for ‘squashed’ potatoes, Patate in tecia)

Other links:

DELVING INTO EGG PASTA

 

SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD, current information and recipes

Sustainable Seafood Choices: Making the Right Decisions, Christmas 2024.

For many people who live in Australia seafood is a staple during the Christmas  and New Year period. This may come as a suprise but, with over 6 million kilograms of prawns consumed each year during this time, it’s important to be mindful of the environmental impact of our choices.

It also a good idea to check labels for fish, for example I only buy Australian seafood and there are many reasons to buy Australian seafood – sustainability, environmental impact and quality. Australian seafood producers often have  sustainability certifications from the Marine Stewardship Council and Aquaculture Stewardship Council. 

Whether it’s prawns, oysters, or a beautiful whole fish, for most Australians it appears that the Christmas and New Year’s festive season wouldn’t feel the same without some seafood.

Not only Italians, but people of different cultures who have a Catholic background abstain from eating meat on Christmas Eve, and fish is a preferred choice.

In recent years, it has been beneficial to see information via the media guiding shoppers to make more informed, sustainable seafood choices. This is crucial not only to protect marine species, but also to ensure that we’re supporting seafood industries that are committed to the health of our oceans.

Here’s a summary of some important information and guidance from what i have read and heard on sustainable seafood in the last few weeks. Hopefully it  may help us make the right choices this holiday season. I have also included some seafood recipes at the end of this post.

The Environmental Impact of Seafood Consumption

As the demand for seafood grows, so do the pressures on our oceans and marine life, with issues like bycatch, pollution, and unsustainable farming practices becoming more widespread.

Australia’s appetite for seafood during the Christmas season has a significant environmental cost. For instance, the production of prawns can lead to habitat destruction, pollution, and unsustainable fishing practices, all of which harm marine ecosystems. Bycatch – the capture of non-target species – is a major concern, and certain farming practices, particularly for prawns, have been linked to sea bed deforestation and high pollution levels.

One of the most reliable resources for navigating the complexities of sustainable seafood is the Australian Marine Conservation Society’s GoodFish Guide, which provides helpful advice on what to buy, and what to avoid, based on the sustainability of fishing methods and farm practices.

Just like the tureen above making the right choice can be confusing, What may be sustainable in one country, state or location, will not be sustainable in another. And also, what was sustainable last year may not be on the good choice list this year. And while we are discussing changes, I have been promoting wild caught fish for many years but now, I am not so sure about making generalisations! It all depends on the fishery. (Unfortunately, I cannot remember what Art Gallery in NY this photo was from.)

Unsustainable Choices to Avoid

Some popular seafood items are unfortunately not as environmentally friendly as  promoted. This year I have been hearing strong criticism about Tasmanian salmon. Mind you, many of us already knew this, but lately the views expressed in the media have been particularly damming.

The GoodFish Guide advises against purchasing farm-raised Tasmanian salmon that has been linked to high pollution levels in the waters where it’s farmed depriving other fish of oxygen.Tasmania’s salmon farming industry has been controversial due to environmental damage, animal welfare concerns, and a lack of regulation. Salmon farming has led to dead zones in Macquarie Harbour due to low oxygen levels, and has impacted the Macquarie Harbour Wilderness World Heritage Area.

There are warnings about the potential extinction of the Maugean skate, a rare species found only in Tasmania,

There are between 40 and 120 adult Maugean skate left on the planet, and the federal government’s threatened species committee said in August 2024 the best way to save the endangered fish was to eliminate or at least dramatically cut back on salmon farming in its habitat.
The committee said there was a ‘significant correlation’ between low oxygen levels and an increase in salmon farming. Farmed fish suck up a lot of the oxygen in the water, while fish food and faeces that enter the water via the salmon pens feed oxygen-consuming bacteria causing extreme degradation of marine ecosystems surrounding these farms.
Another seafood to avoid is imported vannamei prawns (also known as white leg shrimp), commonly sourced from countries like Vietnam. These prawns are often farmed in ways that cause significant environmental damage, including water pollution and the destruction of mangroves. Furthermore, prawn farming in these regions is notorious for its high use of antibiotics and chemicals, which can harm local biodiversity and contaminate waterways.

Sustainable Alternatives for Christmas Seafood

But there are plenty of sustainable seafood options available that won’t compromise the environmental values or budget.

One great alternative offered is Australian salmon, which is native to the region and is typically caught using low-impact, sustainable methods. Unlike farmed Tasmanian salmon, wild-caught Australian salmon has a much smaller environmental footprint and provides a local, sustainable option for your Christmas feast. I have included some notes and a recipe about this fish towards the end of this post.

Farm-raised Australian prawns – especially varieties like black tiger and banana prawns – are an excellent sustainable option. These prawns are farmed in environmentally controlled systems with a much lower impact than their imported counterparts. They are often cheaper than wild-caught prawns because of lower labor costs and can be just as tasty. Additionally, some of Australia’s Spencer Gulf prawns are both affordable and sustainable, making them an excellent choice for a Christmas seafood platter.

Another more sustainable option is farm-raised barramundi. While wild-caught barramundi, particularly those caught using destructive gillnets, is often considered harmful to marine life, farmed barramundi has a far less damaging environmental impact. The Australian barramundi farming industry is highly regulated, ensuring that practices meet high environmental and animal welfare standards.

Wild-Caught vs. Farmed: Navigating the Choices

In the face of these sustainability challenges, it’s also important to consider the difference between wild-caught and farmed seafood. Both have their pros and cons. Wild-caught fish can suffer from overfishing and bycatch, especially when fisheries are poorly managed. However, Australian fisheries are typically subject to strict regulations, which means that wild-caught Australian species like prawns, barramundi, and rock lobster are generally more sustainable than wild-caught seafood from other regions.

Farmed seafood, on the other hand, can be more environmentally friendly if the farming practices are responsible. In fact, well-managed fish farms can actually have a smaller carbon footprint and less environmental impact than some forms of wild-caught fishing. It’s key to check where and how the seafood is farmed. Sustainable farms use environmentally responsible practices such as efficient feed management, waste control, and low-impact farming systems.

Sustainable Seafood: Affordable Options for Every Budget

Sustainable seafood can sometimes be more expensive, but there are affordable options available. For example, Australian salmon and farmed prawns are not only eco-friendly choices but are also budget-friendly compared to some of their imported or wild-caught alternatives. By opting for these, we can support local industries and make a real difference in the health of our oceans.

This Christmas, consider making a conscious decision to choose sustainable options. Not only will you be making a positive impact on the environment, but you’ll also be supporting Australia’s local fishing and farming communities, ensuring that these industries remain viable for future generations.

In summary, being an informed seafood consumer doesn’t have to be difficult. By using resources like the GoodFish guide and prioritising sustainable Australian seafood, we can all enjoy delicious meals that are kind to the planet.

From Australian salmon and farmed prawns to sustainably farmed barramundi, there are plenty of options that are both eco-friendly and affordable. It’s about making smarter choices, so that we can continue to enjoy the bounty of the ocean – without compromising its future.

Recipes

Not all sustainable seafood is mentioned in what I have read or listened to. For example squid, mussels and sardines have always been on the better choice list. Explore the options:

GoodFish Guide

There are many recipes for Mussels, Squid and Sardines on my blog, far too many to list here. Here are just a few.

MUSSELS, three ways: in brodetto, with spaghetti and in a risotto with saffron

NDUJA, SQUID, VONGOLE AND PAN GRATTATO with Spaghetti

GRILLED CALAMARI (CALAMARI ‘NTA BRACI (Sicilian) – CALAMARI ALLA BRACE (Italian)

SARDINES, grilled or barbecued with Sicilian dressings

There are far too many recipes for seafood on my blog (pasta, rice, raw, cooked in various ways), but this link could be helpful:

LA VIGILIA (Christmas Eve revisited)

This year, Australian salmon seems to feature strongly as a sustainable choice. This fish was abundant in South Australia where I lived for many years and I am used to cooking it. But because it is a strong tasting fish, I would recommend baking it  whole or filleted and using strong flavours like anchovies, garlic and onion.  The flavour of this fish also responds to strong tasting herbs. I would never cook it by steaming or enveloping with foil to bake; it is far too fishy, even for me.

BAKED FISH WITH POTATOES, VINEGAR and ANCHOVIES

Cooking Autralian salmon on a grill on the BBQ will also suit this fish. The charred flavour will mask the fishy taste of the fish and enhance the flavour. Think of sardines on the BBQ and how delicious they are when cooked this way.

Strong tasting sauces will complement the taste of the fish.
And consider using strong tasting herbs and plenty of them, either when cooking  strong tasting fish or for the sauces.

SARDINES, grilled or barbecued with Sicilian dressings

PASTA CON LE SARDE (SARDINES)  (strong flavours – fennel, saffron, currants)

SAUCES for meat, fish and vegetables to brighten up your Christmas

Enjoy cooking, eating, sharing and talking about food!

ROASTED CHARRED PEPPERS

The charred elegance of roasted peppers -—simple, bold, and unforgettable!

Peppers (capsicums) charred on a grill capture the essence of Sicilian cuisine. Simple, colourful, fragrant and full of  flavour, this dish transforms humble ingredients into a culinary triumph.

Fresh basil, garlic and good extra virgin olive oil is all that is needed for a tasty salad, but I often keep more in the fridge to add to other dishes.

The Peperoni (peppers) are known as Pipi Arrustuti in Sicilian and Peperoni Arrostiti in Italian. Although they are grilled Arrostiti means roasted.

Especially perfect for summer and autumn when peppers are at their best.

Grilled peppers are versatile and can enhance a variety of dishes with their smoky, sweet flavor and are a fantastic way to add colour, flavour, and nutrition to almost any dish!

My preferred way is to present the Peperoni Arrostiti as an antipasto alongside crusty bread, as a topping for grilled meats, or even as a side dish. Its vibrant colours and robust flavors make it a show-stopping addition to any meal.

Peeling the peppers without rinsing preserves their intense smoky depth.

Peperoni Arrostiti, Roast Peppers

Below some serving suggestions:

Below, roast peppers surrownding some ricotta.

I usually add left over peppers to other salads, either made with uncooked vegetables or cooked, for example :

  • Toss grilled peppers with cucumbers, cherry tomatoes, herbs, black olives, red onion, a drizzle of good olive oil and lemon juice.
  • Combine grilled peppers with grains like quinoa, farro etc, along with rocket, pulses like chickpeas or  any type of beans, roasted pumpkin or grilled zucchini or eggplant and perhaps a tahini dressing.

Ingredients

Peppers: 6, any color (a mix is ideal, with red peppers offering a sweeter note).
extra virgin olive Oil: 1/2 cup
garlic: 3 cloves, chopped
tomatoes: 2 whole, firm and red
basil leaves: About 3/4 cup, torn
salt and black pepper: To taste

Optional Variations:

Mint: replace basil for a fresh twist, a favourite among some parts of Sicily.

Lemon Juice: add a squeeze before serving, a common touch in southern Sicily, especially in Ragusa.

Toasted breadcrumbs (tossed in a hot frypan with a little extra virgin olive oil):  some Sicilians sprinkle toasted breadcrumbs on the grilled peppers before serving. This is also a favourite topping for caponata.

Below, a photo of street food assold from the streets of Palermo.

Process

1. Roast the Peppers

Place the peppers on a BBQ grill over intense heat. Turn them frequently until the skin is blistered and puffy. Once charred, remove them from the grill and place them in a bowl, covering it with a plate or lid. This step allows the peppers to steam, making the skins easier to peel. Alternatively, wrap them in paper or place them in a plastic bag as my mother and relatives often do. Let them sit for at least 10 minutes.

2. Prepare the Tomatoes

Grill the tomatoes briefly until their skins split and char. This process takes only 1-2 minutes. Remove and set aside to cool.

3. Peel and Clean

Using your fingers, peel away the skins of both the peppers and tomatoes, scraping off as much charred skin as possible. Avoid rinsing to preserve the flavor. Split the peppers and remove the seeds, then tear both the peppers and tomatoes into rough strips.

4. Assemble the Dish

Place the torn peppers and tomatoes into a bowl. Add the slivered garlic and torn basil leaves. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil, season with salt and black pepper, and gently toss to combine.

5. Marinate

Let the mixture marinate for at least 30 minutes before serving. The flavors deepen beautifully if allowed to rest overnight.

You can also roast hot peppers/chillies to add to this salad or store them in extra virgin olive oil in the fridge to use elewhere,for example for making Harissa..

See recipe for Harissa.

Harissa made with fresh Chillies

SALSA ROMESCO (Romesco sauce, this recipe is made with roasted peppers, tomatoes and almonds)

ANTIPASTO – GRILLED SUMMER VEGETABLES AND A SCOOP OF SALADS

 

(TUNA BALLS ) and other tuna recipes

Tuna balls —known as Polpette di Tonno in Italy and Purpetti di Tunnu in Sicily—are a delightful twist on the classic meatball, shaped in a variety of sizes and infused with an array of irresistible flavors of tradition and creativity as with their meaty counterparts. In this case Sicilian flavours.

Below is a photo of tuna and sword fish (on the left) as sold in a fish market in Sicily. Notice the different cuts.

Tuna is widely eaten and appreciated in Sicily and in this post I have aslo included other recipes for Tuna.

They can be fried and eaten plain with a squeeze of lemon juice, poached in a tomato salsa or in an agro dolce sauce.

The photo below was taken by the photographer Graeme Gillies and styled by Fiona Rigg from my cookbook Sicilian Seafood Cooking.

You may think that using tuna for mincing and making into balls is far too extravagant, but Albocore tuna is more sustainable and economical. It is usually sold cut into vertical slices.

Below is another photo of Albacore tuna,  a recipe for tuna studded with various flavours. I often use Mackerel or Hapuka for this recipe.

The photo below was taken by the photographer Graeme Gillies and styled by Fiona Rigg from my cookbook Sicilian Seafood Cooking.

I have often bought Albacore tuna in Adelaide filleted and cut into cutlets. Unfortunately I have never found these excellent cuts of Albacore tuna in Melbourne.

The following recipe is for 6 people

Fish balls in tomato salsa

INGREDIENTS

tuna, 600gr, all skin and sinews removed
breadcrumbs, made from fresh bread, 1 cup
milk, ¼ cup
eggs, 2 lightly beaten
currants, 2 tablespoons
pine nuts, 2 tablespoons
salt and freshly ground black pepper
flour or fine toasted breadcrumbs to coat the fish balls
extra virgin olive oil, 1¼ cup or more
tomatoes, 500g, peeled and chopped (or a can)
parsley, 2 tablespoons
rosemary, ½ teaspoon finely cut
basil, fresh, loose leaves
white wine, 1 cup
garlic cloves, 2
extra virgin olive oil, 1 cup

PROCESSES

Cut tuna into chunks and remove any dark bits of the flesh.
Mince the tuna – pass through meat grinder or use food processor.
Soak fresh breadcrumbs in milk and squeeze dry.

Make fishballs:

Combine, tuna, fresh breadcrumbs, eggs, parsley, seasoning and 1 tablespoon of each of the currants and pine nuts.

Form into fish balls and roll each one lightly in flour and shake off any excess.

Heat ¾ cup of extra virgin olive oil in a fry pan and using a slotted spoon, carefully lower the balls into the hot oil and cook until they are a light golden brown (about 2 minutes). Do not overcrowd them, it is better to cook them in batches and give them room to fry.

Remove with a slotted spoon and leave to drain on paper towels.

For the tomato salsa:

Heat, ¼ cup of extra virgin olive oil in a separate pan. It needs to be large enough to accommodate the polpette as well as the salsa.

Add the garlic and cook until it is lightly golden.

Place the tomatoes, rosemary, the rest of the currants and pine nuts and seasoning into the pan.

Include the polpette and braise for about 8 to 10 minutes.

Add the white wine and fresh basil leaves (if in season) and leave uncovered till the sauce is thick and the polpette are cooked.

Serve hot.

Fish balls in agro dolce

Instead of using pine nuts and currants in the mixture, you could select to add some grated lemon peel, a little cinnamon and some chopped spring onions or mint.

Fry the fish balls I some oil, drain the access oil and return the purpetti to the fry pan. Add  a couple of fresh bay leaves, two tablespoons of sugar, ½ cup of vinegar and ½ cup of white wine. Heat, allow the liquid to evaporate.  Add ½ cup of water, swirl around it in the pan to deglaze all of those good flavours and serve.

I have made many fishballs of various sized and many times using different types of fish.

FISH BALLS IN SALSA – POLPETTE DI PESCE (PURPETTI in Sicilian)

FISH BALLS with Sicilian flavours

FISH STUDDED WITH SICILIAN FLAVOURS

TONNO AL AGRO DOLCE; Sweet and sour tuna, Sicilian; ALBACORE TUNA

HAPUKA(fish)WITH SICILIAN FLAVOURS

TUNNU `A STIMPIRATA; TONNO ALLA STEMPERATA (Tuna with onions, vinegar, capers and green olives)

TONNO E PISELLI (Tuna and peas)

TONNO (Tuna, albacore)

 

ZUPPA INGLESE revisited

I’ve made the classic famous Zuppa Inglese countless times, and it’s one of those desserts that’s surprisingly easy to prepare while still managing to impress. When I’m pressed for time or in need of a transportable dessert that guarantees satisfaction and admiration, Zuppa Inglese never lets me down.

I first shared this recipe back on October 10, 2010, and it feels just as relevant today —maybe even more so. It is the Italian alternative to the English trifle.With its rich layers of sponge fingers, egg custard, and the perfect hint of the ancient Florentine liqueur called Alchermes, it’s the ideal dessert for any celebration. Zuppa Inglese never goes out of style!

You may need to use the internet to source Alchermes, but it is worth making it with the traditional liquer that is used for cakes. The savoiardi sponge fingers are moistened with Alchermes and it is  usually diluted with a little water. I don’t usually do this. Maybe this is why everyone likes it so much!

ZUPPA INGLESE, Italian dessert and Alchermes

ALCHERMES/ALKERMES (The liqueur used to make Zuppa Inglese)

*The above link also contains a homemede version of this liquer. I use Vodka and a multitude of spices .

Make Zuppa Inglese in different shapes and as large as you like and in different shapes:

 

Zuppa inglese

Make individual ones:

LA VIGILIA (Christmas Eve revisited)

I prefer the Christmas celebration to be on Christmas Eve, it is called La Vigilia (the Vigil) in Italian.

In Sicily, as in many parts of Italy, the Christmas Eve celebration is deeply rooted in Catholicism and tradition, of fasting and abstaining from meat. One of the most cherished customs is sharing a festive meal with family and friends on La Vigilia. This meal features fish, and/ or vegetarian content.

IMG_3148

I originally wrote this post on December 20, 2012, to share the types of Sicilian fish dishes I might cook here in Australia on Christmas Eve (or during the festive period).

The traditions and recipes are just as relevant today and I still cook them, so I’m bringing it back to the spotlight for another festive season!

CHRISTMAS RECIPES with a Sicilian theme and “Feast of the Seven Fishes.”

The photos below are from Fish Markets in Sicily – Catania, Syracuse and Palermo.  Three of these photos were included in my book, Sicilian Seafood Cooking (Published 2011).

Below are some excellent photographs of the food I cooked in my very small kitchen. The credit goes to the New Holland photographer, Graeme Gillies, and the food stylist Fiona Rigg – their team work and attention to detail is obvious when you look at the photos of the food.

The link below includes many Sicilian recipes of fish. See recipes for:

TONNO CUNZATO – Raw Marinated Tuna

RAVIOLI DI RICOTTA CU NIURU DI SICCI – Ricotta Ravioli With Black Ink Sauce

RISO CON GLI ANGELI – Rice with angels

SPAGHETTI CON L ’ARAGOSTA – Spaghetti with crayfish

CALAMARETTI RIPIENI CON MARSALA E MANDORLE – Stuffed calamari with fresh cheese, almonds and nutmeg braised in marsala

PESCE INFORNATO CON PATATE – Baked fish with potatoes, vinegar and anchovies

A SEAFOOD CHRISTMAS Feast with Fran Kelly; RADIO NATIONAL BREAKFAST PROGRAMME

 

UNVEILING KOHLRABI, a BRASSICA

Kohlrabi is a odd looking vegetable that has remained relatively unknown. It belongs to the Brassica family, which includes more favoured vegetables like broccoli, kale, and cabbage. It has a round, bulbous shape that can be green, purple, or white, and grows above ground on a thick stem; it has an unconventional appearance that seems to deter home cooks.

Kohlrabi has a mild, slightly sweet taste and a crisp texture similar to a turnip or radish. It tastes like a cross between cabbage (sweetness, and maybe just a little bit of sharp heat) and a mild radish (spicy, peppery, like mustard and horseradish).

The bulb of kohlrabi can be eaten raw and cooked, is low in calories packed with vitamins and antioxidants. The leaves can be cooked, the young leaves can be added to salads.

But despite its nutritional pedigree and potential appeal, kohlrabi an underappreciated vegetable in many kitchens.

I was recently asked to write about kohlrabi by Lindsay Marie Morris, a novelist and journalist based in Los Angeles, California. Her work spans multiple topics and she has a strong passion for Sicilian culture and cuisine.

Lindsay Marie Morris found kohlrabi recipes on my blog.

In Ragusa (south eastern Sicily) is where my father’s family lives and  they cook the bulb and leaves with homemade pasta called Causunedda. The  water that the vegetables are cooked in (broth) is enriched with fresh pork rind and the pasta is also cooked in the broth. It may not sound appealing, but this wet pasta dish is very  unique and steeped in family tradition.

The Ragusani are known for their straightforward, flavourful dishes that focus on local produce, rich meats—especially pork—and seasonal vegetables. This emphasis on simplicity has profoundly shaped my understanding of cooking, showing me that the best meals often come from the freshest ingredients and strong traditions.

Below, photo of the homemade Causunedda as made by one of the elderly aunt and helped by the family. Unfortunately she is deceased and probably the younger faily members no longer make them.

My cousin in Ragusa mixing the Causanedda. It is usually a family affair.

In Augusta (just south of Catania), a cousin from my mother’s side of the family treats its bulb and leaves as many Italians treat green, leafy vegetables. The vegetables are cooked – boiled, then drained and sautéed in extra virgin olive oil, garlic and anchovies. Chillies are optional, but adding chillies in Sicily is very common. The sautéd vegetables are then used to dress. and like when cooking pasta with broccoli, the pasta is cooked in the flavoured water that has been used to cook the broccoli.

The recipes about kohlrabi on my blog:

KOHLRABI with pasta (Causunnedda)

KOHLRABI, as eaten in Sicily

A WET PASTA DISH WITH KOHLRABI

This is a very special post of the pasta making in Ragusa:

GNUCCHITEDDI (Making small gnocchi shapes using my great grandmother’s device)

Lindsay Marie Morris

My interview as published on Lindsay Marie Morris’s blog:

https://www.lindsaymariemorris.com/blog/posts/45183

Follow Lindsay Marie Morris’s author journey and explore her writing about Sicilian culture at lindsaymorris.com/blog.

A very early photograth of me holding bunches of Kohlrabi in Ragusa. You can see how the size of the bulbs are smaller and there are many more leaves than the ones I see and buy in Australia and have seen in other  European countries and in Vietnam.

IL FRUTTIVENDOLO

I am writing a tribute to Gus and Carmel, owners of IL Fruttivendolo.

In 2009, I first wrote a post about Gus and Carmel Bressi’s enthralling seasonal, heirloom produce at the Queen Victoria Market on my blog, Sicilian Seafood Cooking. But my shopping at their vibrant stall began long before that.

When I moved from Adelaide to Melbourne in early 2002, I stumbled upon a hidden gem nestled in the QVM— a fruit and vegetable stall that felt like my own slice of Italy. I live just a stone’s throw away from the market and I found a profusion of seasonal delights that was reminiscent of my Italian background.

Gus and Carmel’s stall became my one destination for all things fresh. Here, I found a bounty of ingredients that were nearly impossible to find elsewhere in the QVM: the first cime di rapa, artichokes and cardoons (Carmel holding a cardoon).

Carmel was certainly very original and inspiring when displaying vegetables. Those brussels came from her.

Their shelves overflowed with fragrant herbs, crunchy fennel (both bulb and bunch), kohlrabi, and wild greens like nettles, milk thistle and amaranth that added adventurous variations to my cooking.

Endives, frisée and chicory were alongside bunches of puntarelle and senape – and I question if any shopper had seen this leafy green vegetable before (Senape is the middle photo).

There was an array of cauliflowers in every imaginable shape and colour and for many, much of the produce was uncommon. Above – Gus being enchanting to Mary Taylor Simeti who was visiting Melbourne from Sicily at the time. Although I had told him about her, when I introduced him to her, I dont think he realized just how much she knew!!! Mary is the queen of Sicilian Food writing. (Pomp and Sustanance, Bitter Almonds, Sicilian Summer – Cooking with my grandsons).

I marvelled at their diverse colours of eggplants, pink, white, violet and even striped eggplants, varieties that I had not seen since Sicily, crisp witlof of two different colours, and types of radicchio that I had not encountered since Trieste and Venice where radicchio reigns supreme (In the regions Friuli Venezia Giulia and the Veneto).

Fresh borlotti beans, broad beans, and the asparagus in colours and thicknesses, the thick white variety that was everywhere in Paris in Spring. The purple variety surprised me because it lost its colour when cooked.

And who could forget the first heirloom tomatoes, strikingly different carrots, and the sweetness of fresh figs and prickly pears?

While you might spot a few of these treasures at other stalls, Gus and Carmel were the true pioneers. Their passion for produce was profound, and they were more than happy to share tips on how to prepare even the most unfamiliar vegetables, turning every shopping trip into a culinary lesson. They were innovators, always one step ahead, knowing exactly what was in  and who to source it from. Others, like John from Tomato City specialises in tomatoes, he does have eggplants, radicchio and artichokes, as Italian stallholders generally do, but Il Fruttivendolo specialised in the uncommon, a great range of varieties of the same vegetables, those not usually seen in other greengrocers.

Below, broadbeans. notice how relatively small they are. theis is how they should be sold, not like the briadbeans that are generally found in other places that are picked far too mature.

Their stall was filled with vibrant colour and fragrances and each vegetable, fruit and herb was meticulously labelled and beautifully arranged in baskets and boxes.

It was no wonder that their display often attracted the attention of photographers and TV crews, even if their contributions went unrecognized.

Gus and Carmel were initially located in B Shed, Stall 61-65, their space later transformed into the beloved Il Fruttivendolo—a name that elegantly summarises their dual role as sellers of both fruit and vegetables.

 Il = the, frutti = fruit + vendolo = seller = fruitseller.

Just as greengrocers also sell fruit, fruit sellers also sell vegetables.

When the Queen Victoria Market underwent its redevelopment, they were relocated to a couple of temporary stalls before being housed in A Shed, where they continued to enthral customers.

Sadly, when I returned from a three-month trip away and I found that Il Fruttivendolo was no longer there. The operation of the stall came to an abrupt end early one morning when Carmel, alone and carefully organizing her produce, was threatened by an assailant at knife point. Fortunately, another stallholder intervened, chasing the assailant away. But the incident left its mark, prompting Gus and Carmel to accelerate their timing to retire.

Gus and Carmel Bressi were not just suppliers of fruits and vegetables; they were large contributors to the vibrancy of the Queen Victoria Market. Their absence is felt deeply by their customers and the other stall holders, especially those who just like Carmel and Gus have been there for a very long time.

They are remembered for their legacy, the flavours they brought to many kitchens, and their dedication and commitment to source quality produce.

There are many vegetable recipies in this blog – All Things Sicilian amd more.

Here are a few recipes, but if you use the search botton you will be able to find many more.

SENAPE, a new type of mustard green vegetable

CIME DI RAPE (A winter green)

ASPARAGUS and ARTICHOKES

NETTLES (Ortiche), Culinary uses and gnocchi

PASTA RIMESTATA COI CAVOFIORI; Pasta with cauliflower, sultanas, pine nuts and anchovies

FENNEL; male and female shapes

STUFFED BAKED FENNEL WITH PANGRATTATO; FINOCCHI RIPIENI

Melbourne; August: Winter Artichokes in risotto and stuffed

CAPONATA FROM PALERMO (made with eggplants)

SICILIAN CAPONATA DI MELANZANE as made in Palermo (Eggplant caponata and Eggplant caponata with chocolate)

MARY TAYLOR SIMETI and her new book:SICILIAN SUMMER An adventure in cooking with my grandsons

CARDOONS, What are they? (Cardoni or Cardi in Italian)

PASTA CON FINOCCHIO (Pasta and fennel; preferably wild). This is a recipe Gus gave me.

Below, a tribute from The Friends Of The Queen Victoria Market.

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NORTHERN ITALY, rye and buckwheat pasta and PIZZOCCHERI, REVISITED

I first wrote this post many years ago. It has a recipe for making buckwheat and rye pasta. Buckwheat spiralli are commercially available and are obviously a very easy choice. The post also contains information about some of the mountainous regions of northern Italy.
Potatoes cabbage and buckwheat pasta when cooked by themselves are not particularly flavourful. The distinctive flavour of this dish is enhanced by butter, garlic and sage and the alpine cheeses that the region is renowned for producing such as Bitto and Valtellina Casera (DOP cheeses – Protected Designation of Origin). Alternatively use Fontina or Gruyère, Emmental, Edam, or Gouda.
### Tap the link above for recipe