Category: Italian Cooking Techniques

RICETTE per capretto (e capra) – Recipes for slow cooked kid and goat

Here is another recipe to add to the collection of:  RICETTE per capretto (e capra) – Recipes for slow cooked kid and goat. Perfect for any occasion but especially at Easter and New Year.

Slow Cooked Goat with Mushrooms

Slow Cooked Goat with Mushrooms is a rich, slow-braised ragù inspired by Sicily, where Marsala is not reserved only for desserts but is also used to add depth and fragrance to savoury dishes.

Many Italian goat stews are cooked with red or white wine, but in western Sicily it is not unusual to cook meat with Marsala, the island’s famous fortified wine. For this recipe I used Marsala Fine (semi-secco) both to marinate the meat overnight and to enrich the braising liquid.

The finished slow cooked ragù was served with fresh egg pappardelle, whose broad ribbons are perfect for capturing every spoonful of the rich sauce.

Fresh pappardelle dressed with slow-cooked goat and mushroom ragù, finished with Pecorino and fresh mint
Marsala

One of the distinctive Sicilian touches in this dish is the generous use of Marsala, the island’s famous fortified wine. Outside Sicily, goat is more commonly braised with red or white wine, but Marsala has long been used in Sicilian kitchens to enrich both sweet and savoury dishes. In this recipe, I use Marsala Fine (semi-secco) to marinate the goat overnight and again during the slow braise. As it cooks, the wine loses its alcoholic edge, leaving behind a subtle sweetness and remarkable depth of flavour that beautifully complements the richness of the goat and the earthiness of the mushrooms.

Choosing the Meat

I bought a leg and shoulder labelled capretto, the Italian word for kid goat. Traditionally, capretto refers to a young, milk-fed animal prized for its delicate flavour. Judging by the size of these cuts, however, I suspect this was from a more mature goat (capra), which is no disadvantage for a slow-cooked dish. Older goat develops a fuller flavour and becomes wonderfully tender when gently braised for several hours.

The Overnight Marinade

The flavour begins the night before.

I cut most of the meat from the bones, but left the bones in the marinade. They release valuable flavour during the slow cooking and enrich the finished ragù.

The marinade consisted of:

  • Marsala Fine (semi-secco)
  • Extra virgin olive oil
  • Bay leaves
  • Rosemary
  • Cloves

To these classic Sicilian flavours I added sage and nepitella (calamint), these herbs more commonly associated with central and northern Italy, but ones that work beautifully with goat.

Below is the photo of the marinade:

Goat marinating overnight in Marsala, herbs and extra virgin olive oil.

I cut most of the meat off the bone but kept the bones in with the meat to marinade overnight.

The flesh removed from the bones
Building the Ragù

The following day, drain the meat, reserving the marinade.

Brown the goat and bones in batches in extra virgin olive oil until well coloured.

don’t overcrowd the pan, brown meat a few pieces at the time

Removing the meat between batches ensures it browns rather than steams.

In the same pan prepare a soffritto of finely chopped onion, carrot and celery.

The soffritto- onions, carrots and celery

Cook the onion first until softened, then add the carrot and celery and continue sautéing until fragrant.

Return the meat and bones to the pan.

Return all the browned meat to the saucepan

Pour over the reserved marinade, add the herbs, season generously with salt and freshly ground black pepper, then add enough good-quality meat stock to almost cover the meat. I also added another splash of Marsala for extra richness.

Add drained marinade, Marsala and more fresh herbs

Cover and cook gently over low heat for about 4 hours, checking occasionally and adding more stock if necessary.

Slow cooking will do this: By the end of the cooking the meat should be very tender and the bones almost clean.

Add the Mushrooms

When the meat is almost cooked, remove the bones and stir in the sliced mushrooms.

Cover again and cook for another 20–30 minutes, allowing the mushrooms to absorb the rich cooking juices without losing their texture.

The result is a deeply flavoured ragù with tender goat and earthy mushrooms balanced by the sweetness of the Marsala.

Flesh with bones removed and mushrooms – cooked
Serving

Cook fresh egg pappardelle until al dente and toss it through the ragù so every ribbon is coated with the sauce.

Serve with grated Pecorino cheese and a scattering of fresh mint leaves, whose freshness lifts the richness of the slow-cooked goat.

This is generous country cooking—perfect for sharing around a large table with family and friends.

Quite a bit of work, but Perfect!

See:

RAGU` DI CAPRETTO Goat/ kid ragout as a dressing for pasta

SPEZZATINO DI CAPRETTO (Italian Goat/ Kid stew)

SLOW COOKED LEG OF GOAT WITH HOT MINT SAUCE

KID/GOAT WITH ALMONDS (SPRING IN SICILY, CAPRETTO CON LE MANDORLE)

SICILIAN SEAFOOD COOKING, ITALIANICIOUS and READER’S FEAST Bookstore. Recipe for Slow cooked goat in Nero D’Avola

CHICKPEAS and simple food

Let’s make the most of simple, healthy food — chickpeas.

We do not need perfectly stocked pantries to cook satisfying meals. Some of the best dishes come from using what we already have on hand and allowing simple ingredients to shine.

I always keep chickpeas and other pulses in my pantry and freezer. I soak dried pulses overnight, change the water, add bay leaves, or rosemary, or sage, or thyme and then cook them slowly over low heat.THe different herbs will impart a different taste.

Once cooked, I transfer the surplus into glass jars, cover them with their cooking liquid and store them in the freezer. They are nutritious, economical and always ready to use.

Chickpeas have long been central to Mediterranean cooking, especially in Italy, where they appear in soups, pasta dishes and rustic contorni. They are humble ingredients, but deeply satisfying.

Here are  some very different dishes using chickpeas — both simple, improvised and full of flavour.

Would these dishes belong to particular Italian regions? Perhaps not directly. But the ingredients and cooking methods certainly sit comfortably within Italian and Mediterranean traditions. The cauliflower pasta especially feels connected to the type of food my mother would have cooked — practical, seasonal and deeply nourishing.

Pasta with Cauliflower and Chickpeas

This pasta dish came together with ingredients I already had at home: chickpeas, cauliflower, passata, herbs and chilli.

The herb I used was nepitella, which grows abundantly on my balcony at this time of year. Oregano, basil, thyme, marjoram or parsley would all work beautifully.

The cauliflower was the common white variety — inexpensive, easy to find and a vegetable that keeps well in the fridge. I prefer spring onions to regular onions for their gentler flavour, but either can be used. There was also garlic and homemade stock involved, because there are always jars of broth in my freezer.

290FE11D-0257-460B-8208-A44D321DD824

The method was straightforward and very Italian in spirit. I began with extra virgin olive oil, garlic and spring onion gently sautéed. The cauliflower followed, then stock, herbs, seasoning and just enough passata to lightly colour the dish. Everything simmered slowly until tender and fragrant.

I cooked the short pasta separately, though I could easily have added extra stock and cooked the pasta directly in the sauce. I wanted this to be a softer, slightly brothy pasta dish — comforting and rustic.

15DBDDEC-2513-4071-B387-6F70ECC355D3
Chickpeas with pasta.

Chickpeas with Saffron, Mushrooms and Eggplant

05027CE6-A51E-4D33-B5B9-CB7F4AD7CF8D
Chickpeas, saffron, mushrooms and eggplants.

The second dish was more improvised.There is no traditional name because it simply evolved from what I had in the fridge at the time. That is often how good home cooking begins.

I sautéed spring onion in olive oil, added whole mushrooms, then chickpeas and strips of eggplant. Saffron went in for warmth and colour, along with marjoram from the balcony garden. The liquid was the chickpea cooking broth itself — rich, earthy and too good to waste.

Before serving, I added fresh mint for brightness.

DECF8CA3-701B-4531-8282-CA707C229187

Cooking with What We Have

Being creative in my kitchen gives me much pleasure. One of the reasons I enjoy camping or cooking in Airbnbs while travelling is that I cannot rely on having every ingredient or every kitchen tool available. There is creativity in limitation.

You adapt. You improvise. You cook with what is there.

And often those meals become the most memorable.

I MUST LIKE CHICKPEAS – RECIPES:

CECI (CHICKPEAS) IN SICILIA: Cucina Povera

PASTA con cavolofiore, salsicce di maiale e ceci (pasta with cauliflower, pork sausages and chickpeas)

MUSSELS WITH CHICKPEAS

VESPERS and a celebration of chickpeas in BACCALÀ CON CECI alla fiorentina (Salt Cod with Chickpeas as cooked in Florence)

CHICKPEAS SOUP WITH WILD FENNEL (Minestra di ceci con finocchio, erba selvatica)

TORTELLINI, how made in Bologna

Tortellini, and how they are made in Bologna. This post will need very  little explanation – the photos tell it all!

Tortellini are everywhere in Bologna. The small tortellini (made with chicken and veal) are eaten in broth or with a cream dressing and grated Parmesan on top.

This woman worked quickly and drew much attention. Observe the size of the squares of pasta. Imagine the dexterity of stuffing and folding the pasta and shaping them into the shape of bellybuttons.

EECB862B-C174-4953-BB10-1179070B4775
This woman worked quickly and drew much attention.

Observe the size for the tortellini for broth.

91C4E81D-34AA-48EC-9BEB-8F7B9C46DD70

The egg pasta is rolled ultra thin and cut into small rectangular shapes. it took so much concentration even in the hands of a professional.

58E4EE68-90C4-4000-8683-35C61C7D1404
cutting the pasta into small squares.

The filling is close by; the most common fillings are the roast chicken and veal or a mixture of mortadella, roast meats and parmigiano. Nutmeg and marjoram are also favourite flavourings in Bologna.

28BFCE11-F642-499E-81AC-35DFFF84CE8B
So amazing, such small tortellini!

MARINETTI Filippo Tommaso, futurist, frequented a bar in Bologna

DELVING INTO EGG PASTA

EMIGLIA ROMAGNA and their love of stuffed pasta

SICILIAN SUMMER SOUP – made with tendrils of a Sicilian squash

This information provides instructions for making a summer Sicilian soup using a Sicilian squash, the tendrils and leaves of the vine.

The tendrils of the Sicilian squash are called tenerumi and this soup is particularly easy to make if you have a Sicilian friend who grows this vegetable in her garden. I have bought some of this squash at a farmers’ market but it is only available for a short time in the season.

The squash is a long, light green trumpet-shaped squash. It is called a zucca lunga (long squash) or zucca trombetta (trumpet squash) or zucca serpente (serpent squash). she had no squash available  but she knew I had some zucchini to replace the squash, and the soup tasted delicious.

2C1FEE58-4800-42F1-A6FF-F90AC9346CCD
simple ingredient_ tendrils with leaves, zucchini, basil leaves, garlic and tomatoes.

It is a summer dish, and red tomatoes, a little garlic (optional) and basil are also added ingredients. Broken spaghetti are used to thicken the soup…when in Sicily you are unlikely to eat soup without pasta.

PROCESS

Strip and use the soft tendrils and soft leaves off the long, hard curly stems.

D4C1F57A-4CAF-4904-9F8E-2278D0D81B0E
the tendrils and leaves stopped from the hard stalk.

Place the leaves and tendrils ( and some squash or sliced zucchini)  in some boiling water with a little salt.

91C30E4E-7733-4DF9-B0E8-AB74AEED337E

When they are nearly cooked add some broken spaghetti.

18B0054D-BA2B-4537-A912-4119FEF36646

These vegetables are cooked separately.

The tomatoes are left cut in half. Soften the tomatoes in a little extra virgin olive oil with some garlic and basil. It is just a tomato salsa!

DE131FED-4589-41D9-AA8B-720B4E64AD52
The half tomatoes- cut made into a summer salsa.

Add the tomato mixture on top of the pasta. Drizzle on some good extra virgin olive oil, more basil leaves and some chilli flakes if this is your want.

You will find more photos (including the zucca lunga) and information about this recipe and ingredients on previous posts:

F1793940-8C61-4485-8C28-B5B6994EC9DC
The Sicilian summer soup called Minestra di Tenerumi.

ZUCCA LUNGA SICILIANA – long, green variety of squash

MINESTRA ESTIVA CON ZUCCA LUNGA SICILIANA, Sicilian Summer soup made with the long, green variety of squash

TENERUMI (and I did not have to go to SICILY to buy it). The Melbourne Showgrounds Farmers Market

KOHLRABI and TENERUMI, shared between cultures of Sicily and Vietnam

MINESTRA DI TENERUMI (Summer soup made with the tendrils of a Sicilian squash)

 

HAPUKA(fish)WITH SICILIAN FLAVOURS

I used Hapuka cutlets to cook with Sicilian Flavours, but any fish can be cooked in the same way.

03E46B4A-BB9F-4762-B249-D82FCC610BAC
Hapuka fish cutlets.

The Sicilian flavours are simple – grated lemon peel, lemon juice, anchovies, fresh mint and parsley.

DE809BD1-7CA5-4FB0-A474-3B922468F9D2.jpeg
Flavours – Anchovies, parsley and lemon.Roasted peppers as a side plate.

Procedure

Cut anchovies into small pieces.

Grate some lemon peel and squeeze some lemon juice.

Chop parsley and mint. Use greater amount of parsley. You will need a double small pile of the herbs: one for pan-frying and the other mixed with the lemon peel for decoration and flavour.

Fry one side of the fish, then flip it and top with chopped parsley and mint and anchovies. Cook the other side until desired, as it’ll be flipped again briefly.

6F6097A9-ACD7-4C5D-8451-55B8A2B52CAB.jpeg
Slices of pan fried fish with Sicilian flavours. Notice the vibrant fresh colour of the herbs.

The anchovies should have softened. Turn the fish over and season the other side with salt and lemon juice. Evaporate the lemon juice and the fish is ready.

Scatter with more chopped parsley and mint mixed with the grated lemon peel for colour and flavour.

So Simple and so Tasty!

FISH STUDDED WITH FLAVOURS

COOKING CLASS, SMALL FISHY BITES, MERCATO

MARINADED FISH and a recipe for PESCE IN SAOR

Pesce in Saor is one of the iconic dishes of Venetian cuisine, and it is marinated fish. It is also popular throughout  the coastal areas of the Veneto region.

Pesce in Saor—describe a traditional method of preserving fish by frying it and marinating it in vinegar, onions and other flavourings, creating the distinctive Italian balance of agrodolce (sweet and sour).

Long before refrigeration, marinating or ‘sousing’ fish extended its shelf life and is still a popular method. Vinegar inhibits microbial growth in a manner like salt while sugar acts as a preservative and softens the vinegar’s sharpness. This practical necessity has evolved into one of Italy’s most memorable regional dishes.

 

IMG_6125
Pesce in Saor – Sweet-and-sour marinated fish, one of Venice’s and Trieste’s most celebrated traditional dishes.

Pesce in Saor and My Family Traditions

The Italian word for fish is pesce, but in the Triestine dialect it becomes pesse. I lived in Trieste as a child, where pesse in saor was commonly prepared with sardines and served with soft white polenta.

My Sicilian grandmother also made marinated fish, known in Sicilian as pisci ammarinatu, but her flavourings reflected the cuisine of  Catania in Sicily. She preferred mint, bay leaves and garlic in the vinegar marinade, whereas the Venetian and Triestine versions include raisins and pine nuts.

These regional variations demonstrate how a simple preservation technique became adapted to local tastes and ingredients.

Marinated Fish Throughout Italy

Venice is not alone in its love of soused fish. Similar preparations appear throughout Italy:

  • Pesce alla scapece from central and southern Italy, with regional versions flavoured with saffron, garlic or sage.
  • Pesce in carpione from Lombardy, scented with celery and carrot.
  • Scabeccio from Liguria, featuring garlic, rosemary and peppercorns.
  • Sardinian versions that may include chilli, garlic and tomato.

The idea extends well beyond Italy. Escabeche is found throughout Spain and Portugal and travelled to North Africa and Latin America. Nordic countries also have long traditions of preserving fish in acidic marinades. Even a German friend of mine prepares soused fish, adding coriander seeds to his recipe.

IMG_6161
Part of the bay of Trieste
Trieste, Ponte Rosso

 Childhood Memories of Trieste

My maternal grandmother always had pottery terrines of marinated fish in her Sicilian kitchen, covered simply with plates used as lids. When she visited us in Trieste, she continued the same practice, and our kitchen would soon fill with the unmistakable aroma of fish and vinegar.

She especially loved eel. We would walk together to the Pescheria on the waterfront in Trieste, where she would select a live eel from a large tank and the fishmonger would prepare it for her. I never enjoyed watching that part, but I loved visiting the fish market overlooking the bay.

The Old Pescheria of Trieste – now EATALY

Today, the fish market building has been fully renovated and found a new life as Eataly, but my memories remain tied to the sounds, smells and traditions of the old Pescheria.

images-1
The Old Pescheria of Trieste as I remembered it

Using Coorong Mullet Instead of Sardines

Traditionally, pesce in saor is prepared with sardines that are lightly dusted with flour and fried until crisp. However, many small firm fish are suitable.mullet, sand whiting, garfish, flathead or leatherjackets, cleaned and filleted

On some regular trips from Melbourne to Adelaide, I drove through Meningie at the northern end of the Coorong and bought freshly caught Coorong mullet. Their firm flesh made them an excellent substitute, and I used them to prepare this version.

Traditionally, the fish is lightly dusted with flour and salt before it is fried in very hot, extra virgin, olive oil. Although the flour helps to hold the fish together, the oil used to fry the fish will need to be discarded (the sediment will taint the taste of the oil) and the flour coating will often come away from the fish in the marinade.

IMG_7875
Coorong mullet and how it is sold and wrapped in newspaper
Recipe: Pesce in Saor

Serving suggestion: White polenta is traditionally used as an accompaniment for fish and yellow polenta is usually an accompaniment to meat.

Good bread is also good.

Ingredients

Serves 4–6

  • 12–16 fresh sardines or other small fish such as mullet, sand whiting, garfish, flathead or leatherjackets, cleaned and filleted
  • Plain flour
  • Salt
  • Olive oil for frying
  • 2–3 large white onions, finely sliced
  • 1 cup raisins
  • 1 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted
  • White wine (enough to soak the raisins)
  • 250 ml white wine vinegar
  • Freshly ground black pepper

Method

Soak the raisins in the white wine for about 30 minutes.

Lightly dust the fish with flour and a little salt, shaking off any excess.Fry the fish in plenty of hot olive oil until golden and crisp. Drain on kitchen paper.

Gently sauté the onions in a little olive oil until soft but not browned.

Add the vinegar and freshly ground black pepper and simmer for a few minutes.

In a deep terrine or ceramic dish, place a layer of fish followed by onions, drained raisins and pine nuts.

Continue layering until all the ingredients are used, finishing with onions, raisins and pine nuts.

Pour the vinegar mixture over the fish, ensuring everything is well coated.

Cover and refrigerate for at least 24 hours before serving. Like many marinated dishes, the flavours improve with time.

Serve at room temperature, traditionally with soft white polenta.

 

IMG_7877
Coorong Mullet fillets, a very suitable fish to make in Saor

See: PISCI ALL’ AGGHIATA – PESCE ALL’AGLIATA (Soused fish with vinegar, garlic and bay)

 

RAGÙ DI CAPRETTO – Goat/ kid ragout as a dressing for pasta

Ragù di capretto (kid) used as a dressing for pasta is a showstopper exquisite tasting dish!

INGREDIENTS and PROCESS

Sometimes, it is easier to tell a story and describe a recipe by photos.

Goat or kid is a popular ingredient in Spring.

The mint on my balcony is thriving, celeriac is in season, the last of the red tomatoes are also in season and there is a glut of carrots in Victoria at the moment. All of these ingredients, are cooked on low heat for a long time and it makes a delicious ragù as a pasta sauce. On this occasion and a good quality Pecorino cheese is essential.

IMG_7819
CAprettoKid –  lean and pale meat

Kid cut into cubes – you can tell that it is not an old goat by the pale colour of the meat. It is trimmed of fat.

IMG_7815

SOFFRITTO

The usual onion , part of the soffritto in most Italian soups and braises.

IMG_7817
Celeriac

Add a chopped carrot and instead of celery I used some celeriac, some of the bulb and some of the inner leaves of the celeriac.

IMG_7821
Browning the meat (KID/Capretto ) and soffritto has been set aside

Remove the soffritto, add a little more extra virgin olive oil and brown the meat.

IMG_7822
Rosemary, sage, bay, cloves

Add the herbs and spices. Recognise them? Salt and pepper too.

IMG_7823

A couple of red tomatoes.

IMG_7824
KID/Capretto ready to be braised

Top with liquid. I added a mixture of chicken stock (always in my freezer) and some Marsala, to keep it in the Sicilian way of things. On another occasion I may add white wine or dry vermouth.

FullSizeRender

Cover the pan and braise slowly.

Cooked capretto

It does not look as good as it tasted…the perfume was fabulous too.

IMG_7828
Casarecce and ragout/ ragù

Serve with fresh mint leaves and grated Pecorino.

IMG_7839
Pecorino grating cheese

N.B.  Real Pecorino is made from pecora (sheep)..i.e. sheep’s milk. I used a Pecorino Romano. See how white it is in colour?

OVEN COOKED KID (capretto)

BRAISED KID (capretto) in a simple marinade of red wine, extra virgin olive oil and herbs

RICETTE per capretto (e capra) – Recipes for slow cooked kid and goat

SLOW COOKED LEG OF GOAT WITH HOT MINT SAUCE

KID/GOAT WITH ALMONDS (SPRING IN SICILY, CAPRETTO CON LE MANDORLE)

 

PUMARORU CA CIPUDDA (Tomatoes with onions). INSALATA DI POMODORO (Tomato salad)

POMURORU is the Sicilian word for tomatoes, POMODORO is the Italian, and simple tomato salads feature very frequently in my kitchen.

This is not surprising as local tomatoes and basil in summer are at their best.

IMG_7587

ABOUT THE INGREDIENTS in Tomato Salad

When I say simple, I mean made with basic ingredients – in season tasty tomatoes, fresh basil, spring onion, the inside part of the celery, salt and extra virgin olive oil. In fact, so simple that I have not written the recipe for a tomato salad in my blog.

Just writing about tomato salad makes me want to have some – I can taste the fresh bread that I particularly like to use to mop up the juices. Good, extra virgin olive oil is as important as the quality of the tomatoes.

IMG_6568
SO many types of tomatoes

A SIMPLE FAMILY AFFAIR

I have inherited my like of tomato salads from my father; it is one of the things my father made well and my parents, especially when they were elderly would eat a tomato salad almost every day for lunch (accompanied with some sort of cheese, smallgoods, frittata, or left over meat or fish from the night before). This sort of tomato salad  was not considered special enough to present to guests – it was family, simple, every-day food and to a certain extent it has remained so in my present home.

IMG_2974.JPG[1]
Beautiful tomato produce
ABOUT SQUEEZED ONION

Apart from the simple tomato salad made with spring onion, my father excelled in the salad his mother used to make (NONNA Rosa lived in Ragusa, Sicily). this salad  was made with squeezed onions or as he used to call  it – cipolla dolce (sweet onion) – the onion is made sweet by having the bitter juices squeezed out of it before it is used.

IMG_2021
Tmatoes in California. I found so many varieties

The squeezed onion makes the taste of the salad unique and my children and nephews still mention this legendary version of a nonno-tomato salad. When they were in season the large, fresh, salad onions were his favourites (sold in bunches with the bulbs and part of the green stalk still attached) but the ordinary white or the red onions sufficed at other times.

IMG_3063
Tomatoes I bought in South of France

HOW TO MAKE squeezed  CIPPUDDA (onion) for salad

Cipudda is the Sicilian word for onion and cipolla the Italian.

Probably because it is used extensively in Calabria, red onion is called cipolla calabrese or cipolla di Tropea in Italian, Tropea is a very picturesque, old fortified town built on a cliff overlooking a spectacular beach in Calabria.

I now have the old colander my father used to use to strain the onion – this was one of the very few, kitchen implements that came with us from Trieste where we lived before coming to Australia.

IMG_7591
In Italian a colander or strainer is called a scolapasta

Amusing: in Italian a colander or strainer is called a scolapasta – scola means strain…and where would Italians be without an implement to drain their pasta!

 RECIPE for PUMARORU CA CIPUDDA (Tomatoes with onions)

To sweeten onion: Expect to shed tears during this process.

Place 2 large, thinly sliced onions in a colander, sprinkle with about 2 heaped tablespoons of salt and leave it for about 30 minutes. Do not be concerned about the quantity of salt, it will draw out the onions’ strong juices. If fresh onions are in season, leave the sliced onions with the salt for about 15 minutes.

Use your fingers and palms to squeeze the onions inside the colander – the juices and the salt will just dribble through the perforations.

My parents have always made tomato salad with firm, slightly golden, unripe tomatoes. Interestingly in Italy, tomatoes (pomodoro) were first called pomo d’oro, apples of gold and these early specimens were not necessarily red in colour.

My father was making salad well before the heirloom varieties of tomatoes were available – he would have enjoyed using these tomatoes that come in a multitude of colours and variety of shapes. Interestingly, not all are coloured red.

In most parts of Sicily, the most common tomato salad is as follows:

6-8 tomatoes
extra virgin olive oil at least ½ cup
fresh basil (or dried oregano)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 stalk of celery from the inside part of the celery and include some of the pale green leaves – all sliced thinly
1 spring onion sliced thinly or replace the spring onion with the sweetened onions

Cut the tomatoes into bite size pieces and add everything else and serve.

IMG_2964
My son’s Alex’s tomatoes

REGIONAL VARIATIONS by other Sicilians

From Comiso and Vittoria (towns south of Ragusa) and popular inland (in Enna and Caltanissetta) it is common to cut large tomatoes called (cuore di bue — ox heart), horizontally into halves, remove the seeds and stuff each crevice with chopped garlic, salt and extra virgin olive oil. On visits to the South of France I found that these tomatoes are popular and eaten in the same way. Surprise, surprise!

IMG_3062

In my last post I made reference to Sicilian tomato salad. See post:

RICOTTA, TOMATOES and Basil. A perfect summer dish.

These little beauties below were left by a neighbour at my door.

I feel a tomato salad coming on.

IMG_7605
Yellow Tomatoes
IMG_7598
So many excellent varieties of tomatoes

RICOTTA, TOMATOES and Basil. A perfect summer dish.

GREEN TOMATOES: Pickled under oil

TOMATO SALAD WITH GORGONZOLA (INSALATA DI POMODORI E GORGONZOLA)

RICOTTA, TOMATOES and Basil. A perfect summer dish.

Summer is the season for ricotta, tomatoes and basil. When tomatoes are sweet and fragrant, and basil is growing abundantly, very little else is needed to create a memorable dish.

One of the pleasures of eating out is returning home inspired to cook my own version of something I have enjoyed. Often it is not only the flavours that stay with me, but also the presentation.

That happened after a meal at Gauge in Brisbane. Among the dishes my friends and I shared was Cow’s ricotta, sansho pepper, heirloom tomatoes and olive. It was beautifully balanced, elegant in its simplicity, and it immediately sparked ideas.

In summer, my parents who lived in Adelaide enjoyed a tomato salad almost every day. The salad was accompanied by fresh cheeses purchased from their local cheese factory, including ricotta, Formaggio Fresco, Bocconcini, Mozzarella and Ricotta salata. Occasionally, the ricotta was still warm.

IMG_0134
The tomato salad with Asian herbs in Brisbane – Cow’s ricotta, sansho pepper, heirloom tomatoes and olive.
The Magic of Fresh Herbs

The restaurant used an Asian herb, but what fascinated me most was how easily the character of the dish could be changed simply by choosing a different herb.

Each herb brings its own personality. Thyme adds warmth, oregano and sweet marjoram a Mediterranean fragrance, tarragon a gentle aniseed note, dill freshness, while the many varieties of basil available today each contribute something different. The ingredients remain the same, yet the flavour changes completely.

That flexibility is one of the pleasures of cooking.

IMG_7562
Whipped Ricotta
A Summer Favourite at Home

The evening after I returned from Brisbane I was cooking for friends. I had excellent tomatoes, fresh cow’s ricotta and an abundance of basil growing on my balcony. The inspiration from Brisbane became my own version.

Presentation mattered almost as much as flavour. My photographs do not quite capture how attractive the dish looked, but it was fresh, colourful and full of natural flavours. Served with good bread or crisp crackers, it made a perfect summer starter.

Recreating the Dish

The restaurant’s version was:

Cow’s ricotta, sansho pepper, heirloom tomatoes and olive.

The ricotta and heirloom tomatoes were easy enough to source.

Sansho pepper (also known as Japanese pepper) has a distinctive citrus freshness, reminiscent of lemon myrtle. It is readily available from many Asian grocers, but there are plenty of alternatives. I enjoy experimenting with different peppercorns and with dried Mexican chillies that I grind fresh. Some are smoky, some earthy, some fruity and others wonderfully hot.

On this occasion I chose pink peppercorns. They added gentle spice, subtle sweetness and looked beautiful against the white ricotta.

IMG_7560
The basil oil, pink peppercorns, fresh small leaf basil and tomatoes
Olives — Or Just Their Flavour?

Interestingly, the restaurant did not use whole olives. Instead, the olive flavour came from black olive salt.

More recently I have seen another restaurant use dehydrated olives, which provide an intense burst of flavour and wonderful texture.

For my version, whole olives felt too dominant, so I scattered over a few tiny capers instead. They added the salty contrast I wanted while keeping the presentation delicate. Small leaves of Greek basil completed the dish.

A Sicilian Touch

I also added finely sliced spring onion for freshness.

Next time I may include one of those tender pale-green inner celery stalks, finely sliced. In my family, tomato salads always included onion and celery — the traditional Sicilian way of preparing them. It is a combination I still love.

Bringing Everything Together

I whipped fresh cow’s ricotta with a little salt until smooth and creamy.

The basil oil was simply good-quality extra virgin olive oil blended with basil leaves picked from my balcony and a pinch of salt.

The tomatoes came, as they often do, from one of my trusted fruit and vegetable stallholders at Melbourne’s Queen Victoria Market. Starting with excellent produce is what makes a dish like this shine.

With good bread and a glass of chilled wine, it was everything I want from summer cooking: simple, fresh and full of flavour.

IMG_7581
Basil growing on my balcony- 2 varieties

TOMATO SALAD WITH GORGONZOLA (INSALATA DI POMODORI E GORGONZOLA)

A SAVOURY COEUR À LA CRÈME to accompany a summer fresh tomato salad or summer vegetables

RICOTTA how to make it

 

.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

SPAGHETTI with PRAWNS and ZUCCHINI

Spaghetti with prawns and zucchini is a quick and impressive dish.

I do not purchase prawns frequently, but when I do I prioritise sustainability.

Having lived in South Australia before moving to Melbourne, I have always been drawn to prawns from the Spencer Gulf, particularly from the Prawn Trawl Fishery. In December, some were available at the Queen Victoria Market, but I had to search for them. Around the same time, I discovered the T.O.M.S Sustainable Seafood stall at the South Melbourne Market. This small stall offers a limited selection of certified MSC (Marine Stewardship Council) and FOS (Friend of the Sea) seafood. I purchased sustainable prawns from Queensland from this stall.

I buy green peeled prawns to cook, those that are sold with their tails.

IMG_5082
Spaghetti with Prawns and Zucchini sprinkled with pangrattato

Last year I purchased a spiraliser, which transforms zucchini into strands similar to spaghetti. I found the device enjoyable initially but the novelty wore off. It is stored in a cupboard in a spare room, so it is out of sight and out of mind. Prior to using the spiraliser, I used sliced zucchini, which provided the same taste but a different appearance.

IMG_1312
Spiralizer and Zucchini spaghetti shapes

When I use the spiralizer, rather than short pasta I use spaghetti to compliment the long strands of zucchini.

IMG_2639
Zucchini strands/ spaghetti

What makes this pasta and zucchini dish ultra special is the topping of toasted breadcrumbs – an embellished “mollica” or “pangrattato” –  breadcrumbs made with day old bread and made golden in a hot frypan in olive oil. To this I add pine nuts, a little cinnamon, sugar and grated lemon peel – flavours of Sicily.

IMG_2642
Pangrattato ready for the cooked dish

RECIPE for fried breadcrumbs (often called mollica or pangrattato in Italian) use 1-3 day old  good quality white bread (crusty bread, sourdough or pasta dura).

The term for breadcrumbs, in Italian is pane grattugiato/ grattato – it means grated bread. Mollica is the white inside part of the bread.

Remove crust, break into pieces, place into a food processor and make into coarse crumbs. They can also be crumbled with fingertips or grated. You will need about 1 cup.

Heat about ½ cup of extra virgin olive oil in a frying pan and add breadcrumbs . Stir continuously on low temperature until they are just beginning to colour.

Add 1/2 cup pf pine nuts and 1/2 teaspoon of sugar, stir until the nuts and breadcrumbs are an even, light golden brown.

Add 1/2 teaspoon of cinnamon and grated peel of one small lemon.

Remove from the pan when they are ready otherwise they will continue to cook; set aside until you wish to use them. they can be made and stored in a glass jar with a lid in the fridge up to a week.

image
A mezza luna cuts parsley and garlic very efficiently
RECIPE: Spaghetti with Prawns and Zucchini

For 6 people

400g spaghetti
extra-virgin olive oil
4 green zucchini, use spiralizer or sliced thinly
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
600g green prawns, peeled
a large handful flat-leaf parsley, chopped finely
salt and pepper to taste

Add some olive oil in a large frying pan on high heat. Add the zucchini, salt and pepper and cook until slightly softened. Remove from the pan and place them aside. If the zucchini have released liquid drain the liquid and set aside.

Add more olive oil to the same pan and on high heat add the garlic and prawns. Toss them around until they begin to colour. Add the parsley, a little salt and pepper and cook until the prawns are cooked and the parsley has wilted.

Cook the pasta.

Sometimes the prawns release liquid. If this is the case remove the prawns and set them aside and evaporate the liquid to concentrate the flavours. The zucchini juice can also be added to be evaporated.

IMG_1321

Once the juice has been reduced, add the prawns and zucchini and heat through.

Dress the drained pasta.

Serve with the pangrattato sprinkled on top. Add torn basil or mint leaves for visual effect and a fresh taste.

Round zucchini_0083
Round zucchini

Another simple pasta and zucchini recipe (posted in 2009):

PASTA CON ZUCCHINE FRITTE (Pasta and fried zucchini)

An alternative pangrattato recipe that includes anchovies:

SPAGHETTI with ‘NDUJA, SQUID, VONGOLE AND PAN GRATTATO