Tag: Tomatoes

PIZZAIOLA: NAPLES, CAMPANIA

Pizzaiola (or alla pizzaiola) is a traditional, rustic Italian cooking style that uses simple ingredients from Naples, in the Campania region of southern Italy. It’s about simmering meat, typically inexpensive cuts of beef or veal in a rich tomato-based sauce seasoned with garlic, olive oil, parsley, and oregano.

The term pizzaiola comes from pizzaiolo, meaning “pizza maker,” and refers to the similarity between the sauce used in this dish and the classic Neapolitan pizza sauce. Both share basic ingredients like tomatoes, garlic, oregano, and olive oil that became iconic toppings after the 18th century, when tomatoes were fully integrated into southern Italian cuisine.

Carne alla pizzaiola is a perfect example of cucina povera – the “cuisine of the poor” – no-fuss cooking where simple, inexpensive ingredients are changed into flavourful meals.

The Meat: Tender or Tough. Quick Cooking or Slow Cooking?

Thin slices of beef (1cm)—such as fettine di manzo—are ideal for quick cooking. Cuts like Scotch fillet, porterhouse, or rump are tender enough for short simmering times.

But pizzaiola is also a great way to cook tougher cuts like blade steak, shoulder (spalla), or round (girello). I recently made it with topside and have used this cut of meat in previous times and after a longer, slow simmer, the meat became tender in the sauce.

Pizzaiola: Seasonal Variations

One of the joys of pizzaiola is how adaptable it is to the seasons:

Winter (with canned tomatoes):

I prefer to sear the meat first to add depth of flavour. Then, I gently cook garlic (sometimes whole cloves) in olive oil, add the canned tomatoes and oregano, and simmer the sauce for 10 minutes before adding the meat and parsley.

Summer (with fresh tomatoes):

When tomatoes are ripe and flavourful, I don’t sear. I combine raw meat with peeled, diced fresh tomatoes, herbs, oil and garlic right from the start—no pre-cooking. It’s lighter and fresher.

I often add sliced potatoes (just like my mother did). If using quick-cooking meat, slice potatoes thinly; for longer cooking cuts, slice them thicker so everything finishes together.

Classic Carne alla Pizzaiola (with Potatoes)

Serves 2

Ingredients:

  • 2–4 thin or medium-cut beef slices
  • 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
  • 400g tin crushed or peeled tomatoes, cut into chunks
  • 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 tsp dried oregano or 3 tbsp chopped fresh oregano
  • Salt & cracked black pepper to taste
  • 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley

Optional: 3–4 medium potatoes (Desiree or Sebago), peeled and cut into thick slices.

Instructions:

  • Heat olive oil in a large frypan over medium heat.
  • Add sliced garlic and cook gently until fragrant—don’t let it brown.
  • Sear beef steaks for 1–2 minutes per side to brown lightly.
  • Distribute potato slices (if using) between the meat.
  • Add tomatoes, oregano, salt, pepper, and parsley over the meat and potatoes.
  • Cover the pan, lower the heat, and simmer for 15–20 minutes (or 40-50mins for tougher cuts), turning steaks once. The sauce will thicken and the meat will become tender.

 

As you would expect I have written about Pizzaiola  in a previous post:

PIZZAIOLA (Steak cooked alla pizzaiola with tomatoes and herbs)

A few other braises:

GULASCH (Goulash as made in Trieste)

BRAISED KID (capretto) in a simple marinade of red wine, extra virgin olive oil and herbs

SPEZZATINO DI CAPRETTO (Italian Goat/ Kid stew)

POLLO OR GALLINA ALLA CONTADINA, ALLA PAESANA. Braised Chicken with Olives, Sicilian style.

Moulinex – vellutate (veloutés), baby food and Pappa al Pomodoro

Moulinex vellutate, baby food purées and Pappa al Pomodoro evoke memories for many of us who grew up with a trusty Moulinex on the kitchen bench. This simple tool—so effective at making velvety soups and smooth—remains part of Italian kitchens and traditions.

A friend’s husband recently underwent surgery for a hiatus hernia and is now following a gradual recovery diet: first liquids, then purées, and eventually soft, mushy foods. But this doesn’t have to be dull. The pale beetroot Borsch I made recently was silky, nourishing and full of flavour—proof that puréed food can still feel comforting.

MOULINEX FOR BABY FOOD

This slow return to solids reminds me of the way Italian babies begin their food journey. When my younger brother was born, I was eight and watched my mother cook with care and delight. Years later I followed the same steps with my own children.

The gradual progression of the density of food and the complexity of ingredients seems very much like what babies experience when they are introduced to solids.

We began with minestrine, gentle broths with light vegetables, and pappe made with bread. Then came purées and small pastine, followed by semolina in brodo. My mother added puréed chicken, veal liver, fine minced chicken breast or a little white fish to broth with overcooked rice. Her vellutate—a broth blended with one or two vegetables—was enriched not with cream but with an egg yolk to keep it light and digestible. A drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and finely grated parmesan were introduced early.

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The traditional Moulinex rotary mill, perfect for velvety soups and purées.

The heart of the operation was always the Moulinex (or Mouli)—a rotary vegetable mill that made perfect baby-food textures. Unlike blenders, which pulverise everything including tough skins, the Moulinex purées vegetables while leaving behind skins and fibres.

Vegetables like zucchini, green beans, carrot, pumpkin and potato were considered the easiest for babies to digest, with spinach added later. For brain-building, as my mother liked to say, she often made minestrine with white fish, sometimes enriched with puréed potatoes or tiny stelline pasta.

Stelline pasta

My brother and my son adored pappa di pane—simple bread simmered in water or broth until soft and creamy, then enriched with olive oil and eventually a little parmesan.

Later, stewed tomato (often cooked with a basil leaf) was added, and the Mouli came out again to remove skins and seeds. No wonder Italian babies develop such an early love of flavour.

My daughter always preferred broth with pastina.  The broth was made with meat and a carrot and a piece of celery, but not onion – this is too heavy for babies. The meat was removed and the carrot and celery were puréed once they were cooked and returned to the broth.

USING THE MOULINEX FOR ADULTS

The Moulinex made beautiful vegetable vellutate for the whole family. The mushroom vellutata was pretty good and made some with pulses – dried peas, lentils and chickpeas.

Basically, you can turn  any left over vegetables into a good looking, tasty vellutata and some good broth.

Adults, especially in Tuscany, never lose the taste for pappa. Pappa al Pomodoro, thickened with stale bread, remains a timeless dish. Although simple, every cook and region has its own variation. What matters most is the quality of tomatoes, bread, basil and olive oil. You can keep the tomatoes rustic, or use your Moulinex to create a smoother version.

You can see why Italian babies develop a palate – a taste for flavour!

Adults, especially in Tuscany, never lose the taste for pappa. Pappa al Pomodoro, thickened with stale bread, remains a timeless dish. Although simple, every cook and region has its own variation. What matters most is the quality of tomatoes, bread, basil and olive oil. You can keep the tomatoes rustic, or use your Moulinex to create a smoother version. And although this is a rather simple recipe, you can find various versions of it across Tuscany and some other regions of Italy.

Good produce, gentle cooking and simple tools like the Moulinex are at the heart of Italian comfort food—whether for babies, convalescing adults or anyone who loves nourishing, flavourful dishes.

Pappa al Pomodoro Recipe

Ingredients

  • 1 medium onion, finely diced
  • 2–3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • Extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to drizzle
  • 1 kg fresh tomatoes, peeled and chopped, or 800 g good-quality canned
  • 200 g day-old white bread, crusts removed, cut into chunks
  • 2 cups chicken or vegetable stock (or water)
  • Salt and pepper
  • Fresh basil

Method

Sauté onion and garlic in olive oil until soft and fragrant. Add tomatoes and cook until reduced and thickened, like a salsa.

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Add stock, bread, seasoning and basil. Simmer on low for 10 minutes, stirring to break down the bread.

Serve the pappa warm or at room temperature topped with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and fresh basil leaves.

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CUCINA POVERA; REDISCOVERING SOUP

RED PEPPER (Capsicum) SOUP

MACCU (a thick, broad bean soup, made at the end of winter to celebrate spring)

 

 

 

A SAVOURY COEUR À LA CRÈME to accompany a summer fresh tomato salad or summer vegetables

It is summer and time to celebrate a good tomato.

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I like making tomato salads like my parents used to make – with tomatoes, celery, fresh onion, basil or oregano, salt and good extra virgin olive oil.

And as the mood takes me, I sometimes like to accompany a tomato salad with one of the following simple dairy trimmings, like: bocconcini or mozzarella,  treccia,  ricotta, straciatella , burrata or marinaded feta or a panna cotta made with feta or gorgonzola.

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Including the protein makes an excellent starter …..or as my parents did – eat a tomato salad with ricotta or bocconcini for lunch almost every day of summer.

I was in Gippsland yesterday and visited Bassine; they make a range of cheeses on the premises.

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I have been there before and have purchased various cheeses, but yesterday I came home with some quark and thought that would experiment and make a savoury coeur à la crème. 

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Coeur à la crème is usually served with berries but I thought that I could accompany my savoury coeur à la crème with a tomato salad. Alternatively roasted (or charred) peppers or  slow roasted baby tomatoes would also be great… or fried red peppers (peperonata) or lightly sautéed  zucchini and mint could be terrific…I could go on.

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You need muslin and a mold or container that allows drainage. I used a traditional ceramic, heart shape dish for making a coeur à la crème, but any container that is perforated with holes to drain off the excess moisture of the cheese or a colander can be used as an alternative.

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I used the following ingredients:

250 gm each quark, 1 cup of Greek yogurt, 100g of marinaded feta, fresh thyme leaves ground pink peppercorns, 1 peeled clove of garlic, ½ cup pf milk, ½ cup good quality olive oil.

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In a small sauce pan warm the milk over low heat. Remove from heat and let steep for 30 minutes and then strain out.

Combine cheeses and yogurt – you want the mixture fairly smooth so use a food processor or work it with a spoon.

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Add the thyme,  ground pink peppercorns and infused milk. 

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Line the mould with muslin (enough to cover the mold) and sprinkle with olive oil.

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Put cheese mixture into the mold, sprinkle with more olive oil and cover it with the left over muslin.

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Place the mold into a container or tray to catch the whey (liquid that drains away). Stand overnight in the fridge.

Carefully turn the mold out onto a serving plate.

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Serve with a tomato salad or anything thing else that catches your fancy.

Next time I make a ‘Coeur,’ I may try ricotta and herbs – no feta, no yogurt.

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Recipes of summer vegetables:

PEPERONATA – PIPIRONATA (Sicilian) Braised peppers

FRIED ZUCCHINI – ZUCCHINE FRITTE (Zucchini are called CUCUZZEDDI in Sicilian)

PUMARORU CA CIPUDDA (Tomatoes with onions). INSALATA DI POMODORO (Tomato salad)

PEPPERS WITH BREADCRUMBS- PIPI CA MUDDICA – PEPERONI CON LA MOLLICA

ANTIPASTO – GRILLED SUMMER VEGETABLES AND A SCOOP OF SALADS

BURRATA, MOZARELLA, STRACCIATELLA

Coeur a la Crème made with Labneh

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PUMARORU CA CIPUDDA (Tomatoes with onions). INSALATA DI POMODORO (Tomato salad)

Simple tomato salads feature very frequently in my kitchen – not surprising as local tomatoes and basil in summer are at their best.

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When I say simple, I mean made with basic ingredients – in season tasty tomatoes, fresh basil, spring onion, the inside part of the celery, salt and extra virgin olive oil. In fact, so simple that I have not written the recipe for a tomato salad in my blog.

Just writing about tomato salad makes me want to have some – I can taste the fresh bread that I particularly like to use to mop up the juices. Good, extra virgin olive oil is as important as the quality of the tomatoes.

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I have inherited my like of tomato salads from my father; it is one of the things my father made well and my parents, especially when they were elderly would eat a tomato salad almost every day for lunch (accompanied with some sort of cheese, smallgoods, frittata, or left over meat or fish from the night before). This sort of tomato salad  was not considered special enough to present to guests – it was family, simple, every-day food and to a certain extent it has remained so in my present home.

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Apart from the simple tomato salad made with spring onion, my father excelled in the salad his mother used to make (she lived in Ragusa, Sicily) with squeezed onions or as he used to call cipolla dolce (sweet onion) – the onion is made sweet by having the bitter juices squeezed out of it before it is used.

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This makes the taste of the salad unique and my children and nephews still mention this legendary version of a nonno-tomato salad. When they were in season the large, fresh, salad onions were his favourites (sold in bunches with the bulbs and part of the green stalk still attached) but the ordinary white or the red onions sufficed at other times.

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Cipudda is the Sicilian word for onion and cipolla the Italian.

Probably because it is used extensively in Calabria, red onion is called cipolla calabrese or cipolla di Tropea in Italian, Tropea is a very picturesque, old fortified town built on a cliff overlooking a spectacular beach in Calabria.

I now have the old colander my father used to use to strain the onion – this was one of the very few, kitchen implements that came with us from Trieste where we lived before coming to Australia.

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Amusing: in Italian a colander or strainer is called a scolapasta – scola means strain…and where would Italians be without an implement to drain their pasta!

To sweeten onion:

Expect to shed tears during this process.

Place 2 large, thinly sliced onions in a colander, sprinkle with about 2 heaped tablespoons of salt and leave it for about 30 minutes. Do not be concerned about the quantity of salt, it will draw out the onions’ strong juices. If fresh onions are in season, leave the sliced onions with the salt for about 15 minutes.

Use your fingers and palms to squeeze the onions inside the colander – the juices and the salt will just dribble through the perforations.

My parents have always made tomato salad with firm, slightly golden, unripe tomatoes. Interestingly in Italy, tomatoes (pomodoro) were first called pomo d’oro, apples of gold and these early specimens were not necessarily red in colour.

My father was making salad well before the heirloom varieties of tomatoes were available – he would have enjoyed using these tomatoes that come in a multitude of colours and variety of shapes. Interestingly, not all are coloured red.

In most parts of Sicily, the most common tomato salad is as follows:

6-8 tomatoes
extra virgin olive oil at least ½ cup
fresh basil (or dried oregano)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 stalk of celery from the inside part of the celery and include some of the pale green leaves – all sliced thinly
1 spring onion sliced thinly or replace the spring onion with the sweetened onions

Cut the tomatoes into bite size pieces and add everything else and serve.

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From Comiso and Vittoria (towns south of Ragusa) and popular inland (in Enna and Caltanissetta) it is common to cut large tomatoes called (cuore di bue — ox heart), horizontally into halves, remove the seeds and stuff each crevice with chopped garlic, salt and extra virgin olive oil. On visits to the South of France I found that these tomatoes are popular and eaten in the same way. Surprise, surprise!

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In my last post I made reference to Sicilian tomato salad. See post:

RICOTTA, TOMATOES and Basil. A perfect summer dish.

These little beauties below were left by a neighbour at my door.

I feel a tomato salad coming on.

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RICOTTA, TOMATOES and Basil. A perfect summer dish.

One of the things I like about eating out is that I come home full of ideas for reproducing my version of something I have eaten at a restaurant. Looking at the way that food is presented also gives me ideas.

This was a very simple thing. I was in Brisbane recently and went to Gauge restaurant and one of the dishes my friends and I shared was the Cow’s ricotta, sancho pepper, heirloom tomatoes, olive. 

IMG_0134In the restaurant the chefs used an Asian herb but really, there are many herbs that would compliment this dish and each would impart a different taste – I could see myself using common herbs like thyme, oregano or sweet marjoram, tarragon, dill or any of the different types of basil that are now easily available.

Summer to me means eating tomatoes almost every day. Ricotta is also a favourite.

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I arrived home from Brisbane and the next evening I had friends here for dinner and ricotta, tomatoes and the prolific amounts of basil that I am growing on my balcony seemed just right. It was the presentation of this dish that was as important as the taste. My photos do not do it justice, but it was such a a simple dish, full of natural flavours and it looked stunning at the same time. As a summer starter with good bread or crakers it was perfect.

This was the motivation: Cow’s ricotta, sancho pepper, heirloom tomatoes, olive.

Ricotta, heirloom tomatoes – easy stuff and easy to get.

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Sansho Pepper is also known as Japanese Pepper and it is unripe Sichuan pepper. It adds a lemon myrtle-like freshness to dishes. This too is easily available from Asian shops, however maybe not in your pantry, but there are alternatives. I have a variety of pepper corns and just recently I bought a range of dried Mexican chillies that I grind up and use like pepper –  some are particularly spicy, slightly tart with an earthy flavour, others are smoky and aromatic and some are very hot.  On this occasion I chose pink pepper corns – it looks good and tastes different.

There were no real olives in this presentation in the restaurant and the black olive favour was achieved with black olive salt. I was at another restaurant today where they used dehydrated olives – fantastic intense flavour and texture. In my version I could have used whole olives especially the shrivelled black, dried olives  but I thought that they would look too big so I used tiny capers and some of my Greek basil with the tiny leaves.

A little spring onion sliced finely also added flavour. Next time I may add a stalk of finely sliced celery – one of those pale green stalks from the inside of the celery. After all, the tomato salads that I learned to make in my family home always had both onion and celery…. this is how Sicilians make tomato salads.

I used cow’s ricotta that I whipped up to a cream with a little salt and pink pepper corns.

I made a basil oil by blending good- quality, extra virgin olive oil with and a little salt and basil picked from my balcony.

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I bought good tomatoes from a reliable stall holder at the Queen Victoria Market (as I always buy quality produce).

As a summer starter with good bread or crackers it was perfect. Good wine helps too.

 

 

 

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MATAROCCU, a Sicilian pesto

Mataroccu is made with ripe tomatoes, fresh basil, garlic, extra virgin olive oil and almonds.

At this time of year basil is plentiful and many of us enjoy pasta with pesto, so it is time to revisit a post I first wrote in February, 2009 about the Sicilian pesto called Mataroccu (and also Ammogghia in some parts of Sicily). 

It is made with ripe tomatoes, fresh basil, garlic, extra virgin olive oil and almonds.

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The name pesto comes from the word for pestle or to pound , emphasising the traditional method of pounding these ingredients together to create a sauce that’s rich and sweet; it eliminates the grassy flavours that often result from a food processor.T

While most people are familiar with the classic Ligurian pesto—made with Genoese basil, pine nuts, garlic, and a blend of Parmigiano and Pecorino Sardo or Toscano. Both of these regional cheeses are sweeter in taste than the other from different regions.

Pecorino is made from sheep’s’ milk – the word pecora is Italian for sheep.

Pecorino Sardo: Mild and nutty, semi-hard.

Pecorino Romano: Sharp and salty, hard; perfect for grating.

Pecorino Toscano: Creamy and slightly sweet, semi-soft to hard.

Pecorino Siciliano: Rich and robust, hard; great for grating and traditional dishes.

Ligurians are passionate about their pesto, insisting that only basil from their sun-drenched region will do.

 In contrast, Sicily offers its own unique taste and locality highlighting the best of summer’s harvest, where both basil and tomatoes thrive. Almonds, also native to Sicily, add a distinctive touch to this sauce. Mataroccu can be enjoyed tossed with pasta or drizzled over grilled vegetables.

As expected there are some slight different regional versions and name of the same pistu – (Sicilian word for pesto).

Pesto Pantesco hails from the island of Pantelleria, just southwest of Sicily. This version may use capers and sun-dried tomatoes. The incorporation of local ingredients gives Pesto Pantesco a distinctive taste that reflects the island’s rich culinary heritage.

In Trapani, there’s an interesting twist: while Mataroccu typically uses almonds, some locals prefer pine nuts rather than almonds; the pine nuts impart a creamier consistency and a subtly more nutty taste, than almonds.

When it comes to making Mataroccu as in most Sicilian recipes, there’s no need for precision; I never weigh my ingredients. Instead, aim for a balanced sauce that lightly coats your high-quality durum wheat pasta, without overwhelming it. I prefer short pasta shapes for this dish.

As I may have written at other times, in Australia we tend to overdress our pasta – the pesto should coat the pasta, but not overpower the taste.

INGREDIENTS

almonds or pine nuts, 1 cup
garlic, 8-10 cloves,
ripe tomatoes, 400g, peeled, seeded, and chopped
basil, 1 ½ cups loose leaves
parsley ½ cup, cut finely (optional)
extra virgin olive oil (your most fragrant), about 1 cup or as much as the pesto absorbs
salt, and red pepper flakes to taste

PREPARATION

In a mortar, pound the garlic with a pinch of salt until it forms a paste (you want it smooth, yet with some texture).

Gradually add a portion of the tomatoes, herbs, and a splash of olive oil, continuing to pound until combined.

Slowly incorporate the remaining ingredients until you achieve a smooth, homogeneous sauce.

Pecorino Siciliano is a good addition at time of serving, but I really appreciate the fresh taste, and although I may add it to the table at the time of serving, I don’t add it. Ricotta can also be placed on the table in time of serving, but is not very common in Sicily.

For those who prefer modern convenience, a food processor works wonders. Simply grind the nuts first, then blend in the other ingredients gradually until creamy.

Ot summer favourite:

PASTA ALLA NORMA and a variation (Pasta with tomato salsa and fried eggplants; and currants, anchovies and bottarga)

PASTA CON ZUCCHINE FRITTE (Pasta and fried zucchini)

TURKISH EGGS and UOVA AL SALMONE

 

Turkish eggs

As a child I always enjoyed eating what my mother called uova al salmone – and no, she did not add smoked salmon, they were really scrambled eggs in a tomato salsa, made in summer with fresh tomatoes, and the same salsa that was used to dress a summer pasta.

The colour of salmon is the result of scrambling eggs in salsa and uova strapazzate al pomodoro may have been a more appropriate name for this dish, but I, like my mother have always called it by this name (see second recipe).

What I really want to write about is what I call Turkish eggs (probably out of ignorance) – and not been Turkish I will not say that they are authentic and try to give them a name in Turkish. This is how I like to make them.

To make uova al salmone, add diced, peeled tomatoes, salt and pepper and a few fresh basil leaves to a pan with some extra virgin olive oil and simmer for about 10 minutes.

In a bowl, beat eggs then pour into the pan with the tomatoes and stir constantly. When they are creamy and cooked add a few leaves of fresh basil and serve.

What I really want to write about is what I have always called Turkish eggs – and not been Turkish I will not say that they are authentic and try to give them a name in Turkish but this is how I like to make them. And they are not just Turkish: they could be classed as Middle Eastern and I have eaten them in Tunis as well.

Tunis eggs

There are different versions of this Middle Eastern dish and many of them poach the eggs in yoghurt.

TURKISH EGGS

For 4 people, I use 8 eggs. Sometimes I have also added peppers (one or two thinly sliced – either the conventional ones, any colour or the long peppers slender ones (my mother always referred to these as frying peppers). If adding peppers, add them at the same time as the onion. Some also add Turkish sausage (called different names in different countries so I am not even going to try to give it its’ name as I could be off beam).

Although you can scramble the eggs, I like to poach them and I also like to add either parsley or coriander, cumin and/or caraway seeds.

On this occasion we had them as a lunch dish and I accompanied them with harissa, char grilled peppers and yoghurt on the side (take no prisoners!)

Ingredients:

8 eggs
8 medium/large tomatoes, peeled and chopped into small chunks
1-2 white onions or 3 spring onions sliced
½ cup of olive oil
salt and pepper to taste
flavourings: herbs and spices

 

Processes:
Warm the olive oil in fry pan or pan with deep sides, then lightly fry the onions (and peppers) without browning.
After about 2-3 minutes add the chopped tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper( spices and/or herbs) and cook for 7-8 minutes until soft.
Gently make room for each egg (pockets) using a spoon and slide each egg onto its place in the pan. Cover and without disturbing the contents poach the eggs (over a low heat) until done to your liking (runny for me, never hard!)
Serve in the pan. I like fresh bread with mine, especially to eat the yolk.

 

UOVA AL SALMONE

To make uova al salmone, add diced, peeled tomatoes, salt and pepper and a few fresh basil leaves to a pan with some extra virgin olive oil and simmer for about 10 minutes. (Suggested ratio: 6 large tomatoes, 6 eggs)
In a bowl, beat eggs then pour into the pan with the tomatoes and stir constantly. When they are creamy and cooked add a few leaves of fresh basil and serve.

SALSA ROMESCO (Romesco sauce, this recipe is made with roasted peppers, tomatoes and almonds)

I had some left over cooked prawns I wanted to use up and thought that a sauce would liven them up.

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Salsa Romesco is said to have originated from Tarragona, a town close to Barcelona in north-eastern Spain. It is an old Roman town so you can be partly forgiven if you thought that the sauce originated from Rome.
I consulted many sources and there are so many variations to making this Catalan condiment, but the most common ingredients seem to be garlic, red peppers, tomatoes, white bread and almonds. Most interesting is that the recipes from respected food writers, e.g. in Honey From a Weed, (Patience Gray), Mediterranean Seafood (Alan Davison) and Mediterranean Food (Elizabeth David) the main ingredients are tomatoes and the peppers are either paprika or chillies or dried red pepper flakes.

Some recipes include sherry vinegar or wine (rather than wine vinegar). Some have hazelnuts or walnuts as well as the almonds.

There are a few recipes where the bread is first soaked in vinegar and then squeezed dry before it is added to the blend (like when making salsa verde) and others where the bread is toasted in the oven.

Those who are serious romesco – makers make it in a mortar and pestle and also roast or char the tomatoes. If peppers are used these are also charred. I have found references to small red peppers which are often referred to as romesco peppers in Catalonia, so perhaps this is why the name.

Because my grandmothers were Sicilian and this is a Catalan recipe, I cannot say that this is how it is made in my family, however I can give you what has worked for me. There is always room for improvement and I will keep on experimenting.

This sauce is usually associated as a condiment for shellfish and fish. It is also good with grilled and roasted vegetables (especially cold, left over ones that need dressing up the next day).

I usually add a couple of roasted tomatoes to my roasted pepper salads and I conveniently had some in the fridge left over from the night before. I keep roasted garlic covered in olive oil in the fridge, and using up ready made ingredients is often a strong reason why I make certain things in the first place.

INGREDIENTS
4-5 cloves of garlic
1 slice stale sourdough bread
2 large red peppers
1 cup blanched almonds
1 tsp smoked paprika (preferred) or sweet paprika
2 tbsp sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar
2 ripe medium size tomatoes
salt to taste
¼ cup of extra virgin olive oil and ½ cup when you blend the ingredients
water (a little) to thin down the sauce

PROCESSES
Prepare the ingredients before hand:
Roast/chargrill the peppers whole, peel, remove seeds and break them into strips. If using fresh tomatoes cut them into pieces. If you are roasting / chargrilling the peppers do them at the same time.
Heat ¼ cup olive oil in a fry pan sauté the bread until golden.
Roast the garlic whole (Preheat oven to 200 °C, wrap in foil and bake). An easier option is to sauté the peeled cloves of garlic in the same frypan after you have pan-fried the bread.
Toast the blanched almonds or alternatively sauté them in the same frypan.
Place the bread, and almonds in a blender and pulverize.
Add the rest of the ingredients and blend until it forms into a thick, smooth-ish sauce. If the sauce is a too thick, add a little water to thin it down.

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FISH BRAISE WITH TOMATOES, GARLIC, RED CHILLIES AND ANCHOVIES

Left over braises make excellent pies.

Over many years I have cooked with one of my friends who now lives in Queensland. I help her cook, she helps me, and we respect each other’s taste in food and manner of working in the kitchen. We can chose to work together or ignore each other completely and do our own thing, but together over the many years we have prepared some excellent meals

Recently I spent time with her in Queensland and this fish braise was her idea – she thought it had Sicilian flavours, and it does. I thought that she was using far too much garlic and too many chillies in her recipe for it to be Sicilian, but she carried on regardless. I have to admit that the resulting fish braise tasted great; the flavours melded into a mild, sweet flavoured sauce with subtle tastes. We ended up with a thick fish soup (Zuppa Di Pesce) and ate it with bread .

Ingredients for each pie

I complemented her dish with some roasted peppers – they are in season in Queensland and I was able to purchase red, yellow and green peppers. These complimented the fish braise very well.

Both of us always cook too much food (just in case people are hungry), but also because we can both use leftovers creatively and needless to say we had fish braise and peppers left over, hence individual pies for the next day – these were my idea.

Some people hate anchovies; omit them all together, or use white anchovies if you prefer a milder taste (called boquerones).

For the fish braise:

INGREDIENTS
1k fillets of firm white-fleshed fish (we used Flathead)
10-12 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
8-10 long, red chillies (remove the seeds), sliced finely
salt and pepper to taste
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
800g red tomatoes, peeled and chopped into small pieces (or use tinned)
4- 6 anchovies chopped finely,
¾ cup of chopped parsley, fresh oregano and basil.
PROCESSES
Cut fish fillets into serving size pieces, rub with a little salt and pan-fry them in a in a large frying pan with a little of the oil. Remove them and set aside.
Heat the rest of the oil and over medium heat sauté the garlic and chilli until the garlic begins to soften – leave some of the seeds in the chillies if you like hot food.
Stir in chopped anchovies until they dissolve.
Add the wine and evaporate for 2-3 minutes.
Add the tomatoes, herbs and a little salt and cook the sauce until it is reduced. (Remember that the anchovies will be salty).
Add the fish pieces and gently press them into the sauce. Ensure that the sauce covers them, and heat through.
Check that the fish is cooked to your liking.
Spoon the fish braise onto plates and serve with some crusty bread.
Use the left over fish to make pies. We also included a layer of roasted peppers on top of the fish before topping with the pastry.
For the pastry:
INGREDIENTS
250g plain flour, 120g cold butter cut into small cubes, 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil, 1-2 tbs cold water, a little salt.
PROCESSES
Put flour and salt into a bowl, add butter and oil and rub it into the flour until it resembles bread-crumbs. Alternatively use a food processor.
Add just enough cold water to bind the dough together – use the blade of a knife to do this.
Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and chill for at least 10-15 minutes before rolling out and cutting it into the shapes that will cover the pies.
 
Spoon cold fish braise into oven-proof bowls (we made 4 individual pies). Do not include too much of the braising liquid – see photo above.
Top with strips of roasted peppers (optional).
Cover with pastry.
Bake in preheated oven, 200C until golden (15-25 minutes), then cool pies on a wire rack.
 

We accompanied the pie with this salad.

MA2SBAE8REVW

PESCE CUCINATO AL CRUDO FISH COOKED SIMPLY WITH TOMATOES AND MINT

I love Flathead. My fishmonger prefers to sell it as fillets, but I prefer to cook it whole especially if I am braising it; it is an ugly looking fish, but the bones and head add taste to the braising liquid. Many eaters dislike picking out bones from whole fish, however if the spine is lifted out carefully and kept whole, this does not have to be a big problem.

For two people I used one Flathead (600g -700g) and this recipe can be adapted for fillets; use large sized fillets to prevent breakage.

Other white fleshed, medium flavoured and textured fish suitable for this recipe are: Snapper, Leatherjackets, Whiting and Garfish.

The fish is cooked very simply and al crudo (using all raw ingredients and all in the pan at the same time); it relies on the fish being fresh and the tomatoes being sun ripened and flavourful. Mint is rarely used in Italian cooking but it is often added to Sicilian cuisine.

These quantities are suitable for 1k of fish. If using whole snapper, which is a larger fish, increase the cooking time and add a little more liquid to the pan.

INGREDIENTS

fish (see above)
tomatoes, 500g peeled, seeded, and chopped
garlic, 4 cloves chopped finely
extra virgin olive oil, ¾ cup
salt and freshly ground pepper
capers, ½ cup, I prefer to use the salted variety, soaked and washed
fresh mint, 2 tablespoons, cut finely and more sprigs for decoration

PROCESSES

Arrange the fish and the tomatoes in a low saucepan so that the fish can be fitted in one layer.
Add seasoning, extra virgin olive oil, garlic, the finely cut mint and capers.
Cover the fish and cook on medium heat for 7-13 mins if you are cooking whole fish and about 5-7 minutes if they are fillets – this time will vary depending on the size of the fish and how much you like your fish cooked. Take off the lid and cook on brisk heat until the tomatoes have thickened. Avoid stirring or turning the fish to prevent breaking.
Decorate with fresh mint sprigs.

MA2SBAE8REVW