THE SUBTLE POWER OF VINEGAR: HOW ITALIANS BALANCE FLAVOUR

The subtle power of vinegar and how Italians balance flavour is something I appreciate in my own kitchen. Beyond acidity and preservation, vinegar brings balance, gives structure to a dish, and harmony in everyday cooking.Italian cuisine has always been attentive to relationships on the palate: fat is balanced with acidity, sweetness is moderated by bitterness and warm dishes are often refreshed with a sharp element. I often deglaze pans with vinegar. A small splash in a warm pan releases an aroma and sharpness that immediately awakens the senses. And it smells fantastic!

Lemon brightens flavours and highlights bitterness, but vinegar behaves differently. It softens and steadies strong tastes, preventing them from becoming overpowering. Consequently, selecting the appropriate vinegar is a deliberate decision that is part of the cooking process.

In my pantry you will find several types of vinegar —  commercial red wine vinegar, white wine vinegar, champagne vinegar, sherry vinegar and often homemade red wine vinegar. Over time I have learned to select each based on the dish’s requirements rather than habit. Understanding these differences is one of those small shifts that moves cooking from a mechanical to a thoughtful. process.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT VINEGAR

Red wine vinegar

Red wine vinegar is my preferred choice. Its consistent sharpness makes it a reliable ingredient for vinaigrettes, cooked vegetables, legume salads and the sweet-and-sour notes of agrodolce.

Its bold flavour is precisely its strength, allowing it to stand alongside robust ingredients without overpowering them.

White Wine Vinegar

White wine vinegar is lighter and less tannic than red wine vinegar, offering acidity without weight or colour. The acidity is expressed subtly.

I use it when working with tender leaves, fresh herbs, cucumber or zucchini and occasionally for deglazing fish or seafood when I prefer not to use wine. It is also suitable for some ceviche-style preparations, particularly for stronger-tasting fish, making it more suitable for lemon.

It also blends well into emulsified sauces such as mayonnaise or aioli, where lemon might otherwise dominate.

Sherry Vinegar

Sherry vinegar adds complexity rather than sharpness. A few drops are often sufficient.

I frequently drizzle it over simply roasted vegetables such as mushrooms, pumpkin, eggplant and beetroot, allowing their natural sweetness to complement its savoury depth. It is equally suitable for pan sauces for more strongly flavoured poultry such as duck or quail.

Sherry vinegar is the one I use when I want warmth rather than brightness.

Champagne Vinegar 

Champagne vinegar possesses a restrained acidity. It is a subtle taste that supports rather than dominates.

I use it for soft tasting ingredients like lettuces, dishes with delicate herbs such as tarragon or chervil and salads that include fruit, like oranges, peaches and pears, where excessive sharpness would disrupt the balance. Champagne vinegar preserves elegance rather than overwhelming it.

Understanding Balsamic Vinegar

 I am very careful with Balsamic vinegar and use it very sparingly because most varieties that are available are overly sweet and synthetic. Having tasted different batches of Balsamic Vinegar in Modena some years ago I  know what I should be tasting!

Proper Balsamic Vinegar is aged. As with much of Italian cooking, its depth is shaped more by time than by intervention. No additives.

The most revered style is traditional balsamic, produced in Modena or Reggio Emilia from slowly cooked grape must and aged in a succession of wooden barrels for at least twelve years, often far longer. As the seasons pass and the liquid gently concentrates, it becomes darker, denser, and quietly complex. Only a few drops are needed — on Parmigiano Reggiano, ripe strawberries, or a finished risotto — where it deepens rather than dominates. And it is very expensive so one is frugal.

Most bottles encountered today are Aceto Balsamico di Modena IGP, is made from a blend of wine vinegar and grape must and matured for a shorter time. When well made, it is excellent to use in everyday cooking — vinaigrettes, used in agrodolce, or stirred through pan juices.

At the lower end, the type that is sold in supermarkets and labelled as Balsamic … and made in Italy…maturity is sometimes suggested rather than earned. Caramel for colour, thickeners for viscosity, and added sweetness offers quick roundness. Do the ingredients  listed mention grape must? Not likely. And how many additives are listed, and is the information correct?

For this reason, many Italian cooks keep two bottles — one for daily cooking, the other patiently aged, reserved for the final moment when a dish calls for depth and quiet resonance. And they are willing to pay for it .

Homemade Red Wine Vinegar 

Making homemade vinegar is a lesson in patience.

Its production is always slightly unpredictable, influenced by time, temperature and the vitality of its mother. When I am successful, in making it, the vinegar is softer and more layered than most commercial versions.

I treat it with the same respect as a high-quality extra virgin olive oil, often saving it for special salads or using it as a finishing touch, particularly with bitter leaves such as radicchio, chicory and endive.

When I have excess red wine left over, I begin another batch. Fermentation has its own schedule, and some jars take longer than anticipated. The waiting period becomes an integral part of the process.

For those who prefer not to make their own vinegar, a reputable delicatessen will often stock beautifully aged vinegars that are well worth purchasing.

RECIPE: A Traditional Method for Homemade Red Wine Vinegar

Rustic, reliable, and close to how vinegar is still produced in many homes across Italy and France.

Ingredients

  • 750 ml–1 litre red wine (avoid heavily sulphated wines)
  • 250–500 ml unpasteurised vinegar containing a live mother
  • 1 small piece of rustic bread

Equipment

  • Wide-mouth glass jar or crock
  • Breathable cloth or cheesecloth
  • Rubber band or string
  • Wooden spoon

Method

  1. Prepare the wine: Aim for an alcohol level of roughly 6–10%.
  1. Add the starter culture: Pour the wine into the container, add the live vinegar, and drop in the bread — traditionally used to provide nutrients and encourage microbial activity.
  1. Aerate and cover: Stir gently. Cover with cloth — oxygen is essential. Never seal airtight. When I have  used a crockpot I have also used a smaller lid to keep the mother down and then covered it with gauze. I have never had problems with vinegar flies, but maybe I am just lucky!

  1. Ferment: Store somewhere warm (18–27°C), dark, and undisturbed. Within 1–3 weeks, a gelatinous film — the mother — should form, and the aroma will shift from wine to tangy vinegar.
  1. Taste and monitor: Begin tasting after four weeks. Most batches take 4–8 weeks, sometimes longer.
  1. Finish: Remove the bread and bottle, or age further for deeper flavour. Always reserve some mother to start the next batch.

Practical Tips

  • Avoid metal lids touching the liquid.
  • Do not disturb the mother once formed.
  • Top up gradually with wine to create a continuous culture.
  • Discard if fuzzy mould appears; a smooth, jelly-like mother is normal.

Bitterness, Balance, and the Italian Table

Italian cuisine embraces bitterness — radicchio, chicory, scarola, and Belgian endive (witlof) are favourites in my kitchen.

Whether served raw or braised, vinegar is the quiet mediator that softens bitterness and creates equilibrium.

The following recipes reflect northern Italian traditions, where radicchio is celebrated.

A head of Firm Radicchio.

Here are a couple of recipes for radicchio.

Radicchio Agrodolce (Sweet–Sour Radicchio)

A classic example of bitterness balanced with acid and sweetness, widely associated with the Veneto region.

Firm Radicchio cut into wedges.

Ingredients

  • 2 heads radicchio, quartered
  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 small red or white sliced onion or spring onion
  • 2 tbsp red wine vinegar
  • 1 tsp sugar or honey (I often use 1 tbsp balsamic and 1 tbsp red wine vinegar instead)
  • Salt and black pepper

Optional: toasted or candied walnuts, pine nuts, raisins, or currants.

Method

  1. Heat olive oil in a wide pan.
  2. Sauté onion until soft and lightly sweet. If using spring onion sauté less (I overcooked mine)
  3. Add radicchio cut-side down and cook until lightly charred.
  4. Add vinegar and sweetener; toss gently.
  5. Cook for 2–3 minutes until slightly wilted but still structured.
  6. Season and serve warm.
Alternative Charred Version of Radicchio Agrodolce 

For a deeper flavour:

  1. Sear the wedges vigorously without moving them.
  2. Turn once.

  1. Deglaze with vinegar or a vinegar-balsamic mixture.
  2. Add a touch of honey and butter, basting the radicchio  on both sides in the pan until glossy or removing it before making the glaze.
Glaze for Cooked Radicchio.

Plating Tip: Serve wedges whole, slightly overlapped, with glaze spooned toward the core for visual structure.

Candied Walnuts (Perfect for Salads with bitter leaves)

Crisp, lightly glossy, and balanced — never overly sweet.

Ingredients

  • 1 cup walnut halves
  • 1 tbsp sugar
  • 1 tbsp butter or olive oil
  • Pinch of salt
  • About a small teaspoon of wine vinegar

Method

  1. Toast walnuts lightly in a dry pan until fragrant.
  2. Add fat, sugar, and salt. Once the begin to melt add the vinegar.
  3. Stir continuously until caramelised.
  4. Spread on baking paper and cool completely.
Radicchio Salad with Balsamic and Parmigiano

Another northern Italian classic — simple, structured, and refined.

Ingredients

  • Radicchio leaves, torn
  • Parmigiano Reggiano shavings
  • Toasted walnuts (optional)
  • Extra virgin olive oil
  • Good-quality red wine vinegar, balsamic, or both
  • Salt and black pepper

Method

  1. Toss radicchio with olive oil, salt, and pepper.
  2. Add vinegar gradually, tasting until the balance feels right — acidity should support, not dominate.

Plating Suggestions

  • Use a large plate and leave some negative space.
  • Build height rather than spreading the salad flat.
  • Add contrasting textures such as shaved fennel, citrus segments, firm pears sliced, nuts and fried capers. I also use firm peaches or vanilla persimmons, although these are not traditional ingredients. However, cuisine evolves and even traditional cuisine changes.
  • Finish with a final gloss of olive oil and intentionally placed shaved Parmigiano.

These small decisions/ finishing touches elevate salads from rustic home cooking to quietly sophisticated.

Other Radicchio recipes:

LASAGNA /LASAGNE. RECIPE FOR LASAGNA AL RADICCHIO

RISOTTO made with Radicchio

RISOTTO AL RADICCHIO ROSSO

COOKED RADICCHIO

Pan fried radicchio with pickled pears, walnuts, beetroot and gorgonzola

BIGOLI NOBILI (Bigoli pasta with red radicchio, borlotti and pork sausages)

Agro Dolce:

TONNO AL AGRO DOLCE; Sweet and sour tuna, Sicilian; ALBACORE TUNA

PEPERONATA(SICILIAN SWEET AND SOUR PEPPERS)

Sweet and Sour Peppers.

THE MANY VERSIONS OF CAPONATE and grilled food

Eggplant caponata.
Sweet and Sour Pumpkin.

Sicilian Pumpkin with vinegar, mint, sugar and cinnamon

ACETO DI VINO FATTO IN CASA (Home Made Wine Vinegar)

MARINADED FISH and a recipe for PESCE IN SAOR

Sousing fish was a way of preserving it before refrigeration by saturating the fish with acid – vinegar in this case which, like salt,  prevents the growth of microbes. Sugar is also added and to create an agro dolce dish (sweet and sour). The fish is first fried in olive oil and then marinaded in the vinegar base. Slowly sautéed onions are a common ingredient in soused fish and different flavourings are added to the pickling mix. My Sicilian grandmother would put mint, bay leaves and slivers of garlic in her vinegar marinade (pisci ammarinatu in Sicilian), but the pesse in saor made in Venice and in Trieste where I lived as a child, has raisins and pine nuts in it. Pesse is Triestiane for pesce – fish in Italian.

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Soused fish is found all over Italy, for example pesce alla scapace is cooked in central and southern Italy and the Molise version is flavoured with saffron, minced garlic and sage. Pesce in carpione from Lombardy has celery and carrot for flavourings, the Ligurian scabeccio has garlic, whole pepper and rosemary, and the Sardinian marinade has chilli, garlic, and tomato sauce.

Soused fish is also common in other cultures – Nordic countries thrive on soused fish and different versions of escabeche are found in Spanish, Portuguese, French and in North African cuisines. I have a German friend who also cooks soused fish – he adds coriander seeds to his.

My maternal grandmother always had soused fish (in pottery terrines and covered with plates as lids) in her kitchen in Sicily.

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When she visited us in Trieste she did the same and our kitchen then also smelt of fish and vinegar. She particularly liked to souse eel – eel was good in Trieste. We would walk to the Pescheria together, she would choose the eel she wanted from a big tank and the fishmonger would kill it and chop it into pieces.

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I did not much like this part, but I liked going to the Pescheria on the waterfront in the bay of Trieste. The imposing building is now home to Eataly.

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Triestine pesse is mostly made with sardines and is often eaten with white polenta (yellow polenta is usually an accompaniment to meat).

Traditionally, the fish is lightly dusted with flour and salt before it is fried in very hot, extra virgin, olive oil. Although the flour helps to hold the fish together, the oil used to fry the fish will need to be discarded (the sediment will taint the taste of the oil) and the flour coating will often come away from the fish in the marinade.

On my way to Adelaide from Melbourne I drove through Meningie (at the northern end of the Coorong on the shores of Lake Albert) and I bought freshly-caught Coorong mullet. On this occasion I used them instead of sardines to make pesse in saor.

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2-3 fish per person /12-16 fresh sardines or small fish (sand whiting, mullet, garfish, flathead, leather jackets), cleaned and filleted with heads and backbone removed.

plain flour and salt for dusting
olive oil for frying
2-3 large white onions, sliced finely
1 cup of raisins
1 cup of pine nuts, toasted
sufficient white wine to soak the raisins
250 ml of white wine vinegar
freshly ground black pepper

Dust the fish fillets in a little flour and salt, shake off as much flour as possible and fry them in plenty of oil until golden and crisp. Place them on kitchen paper to remove excess oil and set aside.
Soak the raisins in the white wine for about 30minutes.
Sauté the onions gently in some olive oil until they are soft. Add the vinegar and pepper and cook the mixture for a few minutes. Set aside.

Select a terrine deep enough to hold the fish, ingredients and vinegar marinade – a narrow, deep terrine is best. Place a layer of fish, add some onions (dig them out of the vinegar mixture), raisins (drained) and pine nuts. Continue layering the ingredients, finishing with a layer of onions, raisins and pine nuts on top. Pour the vinegar over the layers. Cover it, place it in the fridge and allow to marinate at least 24 hours before serving.  Serve at room temperature.

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See: PISCI ALL’ AGGHIATA – PESCE ALL’AGLIATA (Soused fish with vinegar, garlic and bay)

 

PISCI ALL’ AGGHIATA – PESCE ALL’AGLIATA (Soused fish with vinegar, garlic and bay)

In the period before Christmas my fishmonger at the Queen Victoria Market seemed to be stocking a large quantity of what I call festive fish – mainly lobsters (called crayfish incorrectly), bugs, prawns, scallops and sashimi grade tuna – not the type of fish that I am interested in purchasing.

He always seems to have sardines, and squid but there seem to be no room in his display cabinet or fridge for these. He had run out of the small supply of King George whiting and flathead so I walked away with Snapper. I felt uncomfortable with this choice because I knew that although the Department of Primary Industries in Victoria (Fisheries) lists snapper as a sustainable species, in Australia’s Sustainable Seafood Guide (AMCS) it is considered to be overfished and environmentally limited in VIC.And that is just the issue; it can be relatively difficult to find information about making ethical choices and to purchase sustainable seafood.

This being the first week in January I was even more disappointed to find large supplies of swordfish, marlin and shark (marketed as flake, particularly in Victoria). He also had blue grenadier, blue warehou, snapper again, all classified as not sustainable by AMCS.

However he did have trevally a relative cheaper and tasty fish that is also sustainable. It is a strong tasting fish and a very suitable choice for making Pisci All’ Agghiata – soused fish with complimentary strong flavours – vinegar, garlic and bay. Aglio is the Italian word for garlic (agghiu in Sicilian), so it is easy to guess what ingredient is the defined flavour.

I had some Cippolata (a thick sauce made with onions, sugar and vinegar) in my fridge that I had previously made for another dish and presenting this as an accompaniment seemed perfect.

PISCI ALL’ AGGHIATA
INGREDIENTS
fish, 1-3kg
garlic, cloves, 6-10, cut into halves
bay leaves,
white wine vinegar, ¾ cup
extra virgin olive oil, ¾ cup
flour to coat the fish (optional)
PROCESSES
Coat the fish lightly in flour with little salt (optional and traditional).
Fry the fish in hot extra virgin olive oil, until all the sides are golden. Remove the fish and set aside.  Use the same oil or replace it (if you have coated the fish with flour). Heat the oil.
Add the garlic and when it becomes golden add the vinegar and evaporate for a few minutes.
Place the fish in a bowl deep enough to hold the fish and vinegar marinade.
Intersperse the fish with fresh bay leaves.
Pour the marinade over the fish. Cool it, cover and let the fish rest for several hours before serving at room temperature (or store in the fridge until ready to serve, and remove it from the fridge about an hour beforehand).
 
The Australian Marine Conservation Society (AMCS) (read more)

Australia’s Sustainable Seafood Guide Online – the first online sustainability guide in Australia. Developed in response to growing public concerns about the state of our seas, it is designed to help you make informed seafood choices and play a part in swelling the tide for sustainable seafood. Visit www.sustainableseafood.org.au to learn more about sustainable seafood and buy your copy of the guide today.

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