Pesce in Saor is one of the iconic dishes of Venetian cuisine, and it is marinated fish. It is also popular throughout the coastal areas of the Veneto region.
Pesce in Saor—describe a traditional method of preserving fish by frying it and marinating it in vinegar, onions and other flavourings, creating the distinctive Italian balance of agrodolce (sweet and sour).
Long before refrigeration, marinating or ‘sousing’ fish extended its shelf life and is still a popular method. Vinegar inhibits microbial growth in a manner like salt while sugar acts as a preservative and softens the vinegar’s sharpness. This practical necessity has evolved into one of Italy’s most memorable regional dishes.
Pesce in Saor and My Family Traditions
The Italian word for fish is pesce, but in the Triestine dialect it becomes pesse. I lived in Trieste as a child, where pesse in saor was commonly prepared with sardines and served with soft white polenta.
My Sicilian grandmother also made marinated fish, known in Sicilian as pisci ammarinatu, but her flavourings reflected the cuisine of Catania in Sicily. She preferred mint, bay leaves and garlic in the vinegar marinade, whereas the Venetian and Triestine versions include raisins and pine nuts.
These regional variations demonstrate how a simple preservation technique became adapted to local tastes and ingredients.
Marinated Fish Throughout Italy
Venice is not alone in its love of soused fish. Similar preparations appear throughout Italy:
- Pesce alla scapece from central and southern Italy, with regional versions flavoured with saffron, garlic or sage.
- Pesce in carpione from Lombardy, scented with celery and carrot.
- Scabeccio from Liguria, featuring garlic, rosemary and peppercorns.
- Sardinian versions that may include chilli, garlic and tomato.
The idea extends well beyond Italy. Escabeche is found throughout Spain and Portugal and travelled to North Africa and Latin America. Nordic countries also have long traditions of preserving fish in acidic marinades. Even a German friend of mine prepares soused fish, adding coriander seeds to his recipe.
Childhood Memories of Trieste
My maternal grandmother always had pottery terrines of marinated fish in her Sicilian kitchen, covered simply with plates used as lids. When she visited us in Trieste, she continued the same practice, and our kitchen would soon fill with the unmistakable aroma of fish and vinegar.
She especially loved eel. We would walk together to the Pescheria on the waterfront in Trieste, where she would select a live eel from a large tank and the fishmonger would prepare it for her. I never enjoyed watching that part, but I loved visiting the fish market overlooking the bay.
Today, the fish market building has been fully renovated and found a new life as Eataly, but my memories remain tied to the sounds, smells and traditions of the old Pescheria.
Using Coorong Mullet Instead of Sardines
Traditionally, pesce in saor is prepared with sardines that are lightly dusted with flour and fried until crisp. However, many small firm fish are suitable.mullet, sand whiting, garfish, flathead or leatherjackets, cleaned and filleted
On some regular trips from Melbourne to Adelaide, I drove through Meningie at the northern end of the Coorong and bought freshly caught Coorong mullet. Their firm flesh made them an excellent substitute, and I used them to prepare this version.
Traditionally, the fish is lightly dusted with flour and salt before it is fried in very hot, extra virgin, olive oil. Although the flour helps to hold the fish together, the oil used to fry the fish will need to be discarded (the sediment will taint the taste of the oil) and the flour coating will often come away from the fish in the marinade.
Recipe: Pesce in Saor
Serving suggestion: White polenta is traditionally used as an accompaniment for fish and yellow polenta is usually an accompaniment to meat.
Good bread is also good.
Ingredients
Serves 4–6
- 12–16 fresh sardines or other small fish such as mullet, sand whiting, garfish, flathead or leatherjackets, cleaned and filleted
- Plain flour
- Salt
- Olive oil for frying
- 2–3 large white onions, finely sliced
- 1 cup raisins
- 1 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted
- White wine (enough to soak the raisins)
- 250 ml white wine vinegar
- Freshly ground black pepper
Method
Soak the raisins in the white wine for about 30 minutes.
Lightly dust the fish with flour and a little salt, shaking off any excess.Fry the fish in plenty of hot olive oil until golden and crisp. Drain on kitchen paper.
Gently sauté the onions in a little olive oil until soft but not browned.
Add the vinegar and freshly ground black pepper and simmer for a few minutes.
In a deep terrine or ceramic dish, place a layer of fish followed by onions, drained raisins and pine nuts.
Continue layering until all the ingredients are used, finishing with onions, raisins and pine nuts.
Pour the vinegar mixture over the fish, ensuring everything is well coated.
Cover and refrigerate for at least 24 hours before serving. Like many marinated dishes, the flavours improve with time.
Serve at room temperature, traditionally with soft white polenta.
See: PISCI ALL’ AGGHIATA – PESCE ALL’AGLIATA (Soused fish with vinegar, garlic and bay)
