Easy cooking | All Things Sicilian and more

DUCK BREAST, ALCOHOL and EMBELLISHMENTS

When it comes to cooking a dinner that feels both special and incredibly simple, pan-fried duck breasts are a standout option, especially when cooked with embellishments, and in this case – cumquats and a slash of alcohol (in this case vodka).

While many cooks tend to reserve duck for formal occasions, it’s surprisingly affordable and easy to prepare. In fact, duck breasts are often only a little more expensive than free-range chicken, making them m perfect for an elegant yet simple dinner for both special celebrations and weekday meals.

The inspiration for this dish came from some preserved cumquats I’d made last year during their season. I preserved them in vodka with some blood orange liqueur and I knew it would make a fantastic pairing with duck.

One of the best things about pan-fried duck is the simple cooking and versatility. A splash of alcohol—whether it’s vodka, wine, vermouth, or a splash of stock— all add complexity and depth to the sauce, for example vermouth creates a bright, aromatic sauce, while a dash of red wine adds a deeper, richer layer. And by adding small amounts of fruit, nuts, pulses, different herbs (thyme, rosemary, bay, sage), spice (star anise, juniper, cloves, cinnamon), or different stocks or flavoured liquids, the flavour is easily transformed.

The vegetable component for this meal in this case was a sauté of spinach cooked with a little extra virgin olive oil and garlic, alongside some simply steamed green beans that are complemented by the taste of the sauce.

An advantage of pan frying duck is that you can quickly and efficiently drain off the fat either to keep for another time or to pan fry potatoes, cooked beforehand and browned in the fry pan.

Cumquats

You are probably not likely to have cumquats that have been preserved in vodka, but you can easily make a quick version:

Quickly made Glazed Cumquats

16-20 whole cumquats, 2 cups water, ½ cup sugar, 2 whole star anise or a stick of cinnamon.

Place the ingredients in a saucepan and simmer gently for 30 mins or until soft. Remove cumquats. Add sugar to liquid in pan and cook for 5 minutes to form a syrup. Return cumquats to the pan and continue to cook gently for about 15- 20 mins or until the fruit is glazed and syrup has reduced to about a cup. Add a splash of vodka (optional, or save it till later) and leave till you are ready to add the cumquats to the duck or they can be stored in a sealed jar the fridge for up to a week.

Preserving Cumquats in Alcohol (Easy Version)

If you’d like to try preserving cumquats for future use, it’s incredibly simple.

This version needs to be stored for at least a couple of months but will keep for much longer

Wash and dry the cumquats well, pricking each one several times with a fine skewer.

Place the cumquats in sterilized jars and add your choice of spices—star anise or, cinnamon. I also added a blood orange liqueur.

Pour your preferred spirit (vodka, brandy, or any liqueur) into the jar, covering the cumquats completely. I rarely add sugar in liqueurs since they are often sweet enough, but if you prefer to add some to a spirit, dissolve a little sugar in hot water before adding.

Seal the jars and store them in a cool, dark place for at least two months before using.

Using Alcohol in both savoury cooking and desserts

I use mostly wine, vinegar or stock for deglazing but I also particularly enjoy to use flavoured grappa, vodkas, vermouths, dry marsala and Pernod or Ricard (for anise flavours). For desserts, I use sweeter liqueurs. It’s a great way to add depth and interest to both savoury and sweet dishes.

Over the years, I am embarrassed to say that I’ve accumulated a collection of spirits and liqueurs that I now use and experiment with when cooking. In the past, serving a small glass of spirits as an aperitivo or a digestivo was quite the trend, as was a liqueur or an amaro after dinner, but no longer. Using up those leftover bottles to deglaze pans to elevate my dishes eases some of that guilt.

As well as playing around with alcohol, I am a great user of herbs and spices and I greatly enjoy selecting what could pair well with the ingredients I am using.

The recipe below may help clarify what I am discussing above.

I use a non-stick pan for sautéing duck, ensuring it didn’t stick, and another for the potatoes.

Pan-Fried Duck with Vodka-Infused Cumquats

Ingredients:

2 duck breasts

2 spring onions, fresh parsley and thyme

extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper

Preserved or quickly made glazed cumquats in vodka (with star anise)

a splash of vodka ( wine or your favourite spirit)

For the potatoes: Pre-cooked potatoes, sliced and ready to brown in a separate pan

Method:

Prepare the Duck: Start by scoring the skin of the duck breasts in a deep criss-cross pattern. This helps the fat melt away faster and ensures a crispy skin. Heat a small amount of oil in your pan, and once hot, place the duck skin-side down. Add a few sprigs of thyme for extra flavour. Cook for 5-6 minutes, allowing the fat to render out.

Cook the Duck: Flip the duck over and season with salt and pepper. Continue cooking for another 6-8 minutes, or until the duck is cooked to your liking. I prefer mine pink, but feel free to cook it a little longer if you like it more well-done. Once cooked, remove the duck from the pan and let it rest while you deal with the sauce and complimentary ingredients. At this stage you may notice that there is still some blood running off the meat but the duck will be added to the sauce once it is made and this will finish the cooking.

Prepare the Sauce: In the same pan, make sure that there is still some grease in the pan (or add some oil) for the next part of the cooking.. Toss in your spring onions and cook until soft. Add a handful of parsley for freshness and colour.

*If using preserved cumquats in alcohol drain them before you add them to the pan Allow them to cook for a minute or two before adding a splash of the drained vodka, or any other spirit of your choice. Let the alcohol evaporate completely before returning the duck to the pan, allowing the flavours to meld together.

* If using the glazed cumquats, add them to the pan with their liquid, add more vodka if you wish any other spirit of your choice. Let the alcohol evaporate completely before returning the duck to the pan, allowing the flavours to meld together.

Finish the Dish: Once the sauce is ready, slice the duck breasts and place them back in the pan to soak up the flavours. Serve the duck slices with the sauce and your vegetable sides.

CHICKPEAS and simple food

Let’s make the most of simple, healthy food. Let’s not panic about not having fully stocked pantries.

There are always chickpeas and other pulses in my pantry and freezer. I soak pulses overnight, change the water and then cook them on low heat. Once cooked, I transfer the surplus into glass jars and store them in my freezer. Easy, nutritious and on hand.

Here are two things that I cooked recently using chickpeas.

Pasta with cauliflower, short pasta and chick peas:

The other, chickpeas, saffron, mushrooms and eggplants:

I really enjoy making the most of the ingredients I have on hand. This is one of the reasons why I like camping or preparing a meal in Airbnbs in fabulous parts of the world….You do not have everything…cannot pop into a particular store to buy things so you have to be creative and use what you have.

The pasta dish was very simple. In the photo you see chickpeas, passata, herbs and chillies. The herb I used is nepitella that grows on my balcony and is ultra plentiful at the moment. You may have oregano, basil, thyme, marjoram or just plain parsley on hand.

The vegetable is common, white cauliflower…easily available, keeps well in the fridge for a long time. I like to use spring onions, rather than onions, but the choice is yours. There is garlic and stock. Stock is always in my freezer. Like I cook and store pulses, there are jars of broth or stock on hand.

The method is nothing novel. Most of my cooking begins with extra virgin olive oil, garlic, onion (if using both), sautéed. Add main ingredients. In this case cauliflower, sauté again, add stock, herbs, seasoning and passata (not much, just to colour). Cover and cook. Very Italian.

I cooked the short pasta separately, but I could have added more stock and cooked the pasta in the cauliflower concoction. You can tell by the photos that I intended this dish to be a wet pasta dish.

Now for the other. I cannot call it anything because I had no background for this recipe. Once again it was making use of what I had in my fridge. It tasted great and I may not make it again, but if I do it could be different. It all depends what you have on hand.

A spring onion, sautéed. Add mushrooms, I left them whole. Sautéed once again. Add chickpeas, eggplant (I cut it lengthwise) saffron, herbs, seasoning and the chickpea broth. The chickpeas are stored in their cooking liquid, and this is the broth. I used marjoram as the herb this time (the plant on my balcony needed trimming) and decorated the dish with fresh mint.

Is it regional Italian?

Certainly the basic cooking methods and ingredients could be Italian or Mediterranean at least. Like all of us, as a cook we rely on our experiences and knowledge of particular cuisines. Is it something that my mother would have made? Maybe the cauliflower pasta has common roots.

Being creative in my kitchen gives me much pleasure.

INVOLTINI DI PESCE (Rolled fish: Fish fillets rolled around a herb stuffing)

There is a sense of celebration associated with eating fish and this recipe for rolled fish could be a good starter to a meal – great for any of these festive occasions.

It is Christmas eve and I intend making these as a starter tonight. It will be a menu of all fish in keeping with the Italian tradition of abstaining from meat; this is a left over practice from days when Catholics did not eat meat during certain days in Advent, a time of expectant waiting and preparation for the celebration of the Nativity of Jesus.

These little morsels are fish fillets rolled around a light stuffing– only herbs, lemon peel and garlic are used. Fillets of small fish (with skin on) are suitable: anything from mild-flavoured whiting, stronger tasting flathead to even stronger oilier fish such as mullet or sardines. They can be pan-fried in a non stick frypan with a little butter or extra virgin olive oil and then eaten with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. You may also wish to deglaze the pan with a little white wine or use orange juice (juice of 2 oranges), these will provide a ready-made sauce. For the orange juice option you could use fresh basil as the herb for the stuffing.

I have made these little rolls many times. Sometimes I have deglazed the pan with Marsala (dry), or white wine. I have also used tarragon as my herb and used vermouth. An alternative stuffing can be made using some breadcrumbs (made from 1 day old, sour dough bread), toast them in a frypan with a little extra virgin olive oil. To these add a little minced garlic, chopped parsley, grated lemon peel, a sprinkling of sugar and a little nutmeg. Pine nuts and currants can also be added to this stuffing.

Fish fillets rolled around a herb stuffing is one of the recipes is in my book, Small Fishy Bites.

INGREDIENTS AND PROCESSES

6 fish fillets from small fish, I used King George whiting

fresh herbs for stuffing (rosemary, parsley, oregano or marjoram)

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil or butter or a mixture of both

salt and freshly ground pepper

fresh bay leaves

grated peel of 1 orange or lemon

Flatten each fillet; if using large fillets, cut into smaller strips. Sprinkle each with a little salt and pepper.

Chop the herbs finely and leave a small sprig to insert at one end of the fish rolls (for decoration).

Mix the herbs, garlic and peel with 1 tablespoon of olive oil (or soft butter- this is less Sicilian). Place a little of the stuffing at one end of each fillet and roll up. Secure each roll with a toothpick and place a sprig of herbs at one end.

Sauté fish rolls in remaining extra virgin olive oil and /or the butter.

Add a little seasoning and bay leaves and continue to cook the fish until it is ready.

Serve with a squeeze of lemon.

SPAGHETTI CON PESCE E POMODORINI (Spaghetti with fish and cherry tomatoes)

“It will be maccheroni, I swear to you, that will unite Italy.”

Giuseppe Garibaldi, on liberating Naples in 1860

When eating in Italy, the usual structure of the meal will consist of two courses. Il primo (the first ) will be a soup, risotto or pasta and in Sicily (and in the south of Italy) it is more likely to be pasta

Il secondo (the second) is the main course – the protein component and one contorno (vegetable side dish) or two contorni.

There have always been two courses in my mother’s home, and in the homes of our Italian friends and relatives. Although this is not something that I have continued to observe in my own household, I generally prepare a primo and a secondo when I am cooking for friends. If this is the case, as is the customary practice in Italian homes, nibbles can just be a very simple plate of olives (or the like) and the dessert, fresh fruit.

These days, I am into easy recipes, something I can prepare in minutes.

Eating pasta with fish is still not very popular in Australia (at the time of writing) but it is very much so in Italy and of course – Sicily. It is an island after all.

Spaghetti is usually the preferred shape of pasta for fish sauces.

Cherry tomatoes appear to have become very common in restaurants in Italy in the last few years. They are called pomodorini, or cigliegini in Italian and most commonly known as pizzitelli in Sicilian – little things.

Some of the cherry tomatoes in Australia may be small but they lack flavour and sweetness (maybe from over watering if this is possible in Australia). One of my friends in Adelaide is growing a variety called currant tomatoes in pots – very small and sweet and ideal for this dish.

Use any fish which will hold together when you sauté it.

Sicilians prefer tuna or swordfish, but because I like to use sustainable fish (pesce sostenibile) I select Albacore tuna when I can get it, tailor or flathead or snapper and mackerel . To keep the fish moist and to prevent it from overcooking, i keep the fish in large pieces when I cook it and then break it up onto smaller pieces.

From Australia’s Sustainable Seafood Guide by Australian Marine Conservation Society – 2009 (AMCS)

INGREDIENTS

spaghetti, 500g

fish, 500g, cut into dice

garlic, 5 cloves, chopped finely

cherry tomatoes, 1 punnet, if too big cut in half,

extra virgin olive oil, 1 cup

fresh herbs, use either: a handful of basil or parsley, or fresh mint,

white wine, 1 glass

salt and freshly ground pepper (or chilli flakes)

Cook pasta and make sauce as it cooks.

Heat the oil in a frying pan.

Sauté the fish ( you can keep it all in one piece if you wish), add the cherry tomatoes. Remove the fish and tomotoes from the pan but leave the juices in the pan.

Add the white wine and reduce .

Add the herbs and stir through the sauce.

Return the fish and tomatoes to the pan. Separate the fish into the size pieces that you wish.

Drain the pasta and return to the pan where it was cooked.

Mix in the sauce and serve.

Australia:

http://www.marineconservation.org.au

Tag: Easy cooking

DUCK BREAST, ALCOHOL and EMBELLISHMENTS

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CHICKPEAS and simple food

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INVOLTINI DI PESCE (Rolled fish: Fish fillets rolled around a herb stuffing)

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SPAGHETTI CON PESCE E POMODORINI (Spaghetti with fish and cherry tomatoes)

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