SUSTAINABLE SHELLFISH: Choices Shape the Sea’s Future

Shellfish like mussels, oysters, and clams stand out as excellent examples of environmentally friendly, sustainable seafood, offering nutritious, delicious meals that also help protect our oceans.

When we choose sustainable seafood, we make a decision that makes an impact far beyond our plate. Shellfish like mussels, oysters, and clams are not only delicious—they’re also some of the most sustainable sources of protein on the planet. By understanding how these ocean creatures are farmed and harvested, we can enjoy their rich flavours while helping protect marine ecosystems for generations to come.

In this post I have written about the sustainability of mussels and shellfish in Australia and Italy and have included a recipe from my book: Sicilian Seafood Cooking , called RISO CON GLI ANGELI, Rice with angels. 

The photo is by Graeme Gillies, food stylist is Fiona Rigg.

Sustainability of Mussels:

Mussels are one of the most sustainable seafood choices available. They are filter feeders, meaning they naturally clean the water by removing excess nutrients and improving marine ecosystems as they grow. Mussel farming requires no feed, antibiotics, or fertilizers—just clean ocean water and space to attach—making their carbon footprint incredibly low compared to other forms of aquaculture. In fact, mussel farms often enhance biodiversity by creating habitats for small fish and marine life. Choosing sustainably farmed mussels supports healthy oceans and promotes environmentally responsible seafood consumption.

Sustainability of Shellfish:
Shellfish such as oysters, clams, and scallops also play a vital role in marine sustainability. Like mussels, they filter and purify seawater, improving coastal water quality while producing protein-rich food with minimal environmental impact. Shellfish farms typically use natural growing methods that require no added feed or chemicals, and they can even help restore damaged marine habitats. Supporting sustainable shellfish industries not only helps maintain balanced ecosystems but also ensures future generations can enjoy nutritious seafood without depleting ocean resources.

MUSSELS

Enjoy a mussel or two – glossy black shells, the faint scent of the sea and one of the ocean’s simplest pleasures – affordable, sustainable, and bursting with flavour. Their magic lies in their simplicity: they cook in minutes, just until their shells open, releasing their own briny liquor that becomes the base for a deeply aromatic broth.

I always enjoy watching guests pry open the shells to reveal the plump, sweet flesh within. Beyond their taste, mussels are among the most environmentally responsible seafood options. They require no feed, thrive naturally in clean waters, and even improve water quality as they grow.

Sustainability of Mussels In Australia

The primary species farmed in Australia is the Blue Mussel, harvested sustainably from the pristine southern waters of South Australia, Tasmania, and Victoria. Valued for its delicate sweetness and versatility, the Blue Mussel is a standout example of responsible aquaculture.

As natural filter-feeders, mussels draw nutrients directly from the water, requiring no additional feed or chemicals — giving them an exceptionally low environmental footprint compared to fed aquaculture. In fact, Australian Blue Mussels are considered one of the most sustainably farmed seafoods in the world.

Mussels are typically grown using suspended culture techniques. Baby mussels, or spat, attach themselves to ropes or socks suspended from floating lines or buoys. Over 12–18 months, they grow plump and flavourful in sheltered, clean sea waters.

In Victoria’s Port Phillip Bay, thousands of mussels dangle beneath the surface, nourished by the cool, nutrient-rich currents until harvest. Sea Bounty Mussels, one of the region’s leading producers, farms approximately 1,000 tonnes annually and is certified organic — a shining example of how local aquaculture can blend sustainability and quality.

Australia’s mussel story is one of balance — local flavour, clean waters, and growing global recognition.

Mussels in Victoria

Living in Melbourne, I’ve become particularly fascinated by Victoria’s growing mussel industry — a story of innovation, sustainability, and local pride.

In 2023/24, Victoria produced around 1,700 tonnes of mussels, valued at approximately AU$6 million.

The Victorian Government recently invested AU$1.25 million to open 290 hectares of new aquaculture reserve waters, expected to boost production by around 700 tonnes.

Australia’s productivity growth is reflected in its evolving relationship with mussels, a humble seafood that’s making its mark on both the culinary scene and policy-making.

Environmental and Regulatory Considerations for Mussels

While mussel farming is generally regarded as sustainable, it’s not without challenges. Careful site selection and regulation are essential to avoid disrupting local ecosystems.

For example, in New South Wales, concerns have arisen about mussel larvae and invasive species spreading near conservation areas, such as the Jervis Bay Marine Park. These examples highlight the importance of thoughtful management to ensure mussel farming remains a net positive for marine environments.

Mussels in Italy: Tradition Meets Taste

Mussels, known as cozze, have long been a culinary and cultural staple in Italy. The country ranks among Europe’s largest producers of Mediterranean Mussels accounting for up to two-thirds of EU production.

According to Italy’s Multi-annual National Strategic Plans for Aquaculture (2021–2030), mussel farming dominates much of the country’s shellfish industry particularly in regions such as Emilia-Romagna Veneto and the Po Delta.

Sustainability of Mussels in Italy

While Italian mussel farming is relatively low-impact environmental considerations remain. The farming system also faces modern sustainability questions including plastic loss at sea, boat fuel usage and sediment build-up under farms.

Nonetheless mussels provide a valuable ecosystem service. In nutrient-rich waters they help remove nitrogen and phosphorus acting as natural filters that maintain ecological balance.

SHELLFISH SUSTAINABILITY IN AUSTRALIA AND ITALY

While Australian farms emphasise organic certification and clean waters Italian farms rely on long-tradition coastal heritage and high-volume production.

As consumers become more aware of how their food choices impact the planet, seafood sustainability has become an important focus. Mussels and other shellfish stand out as excellent examples of environmentally friendly seafood, offering nutritious, delicious meals that also help protect our oceans.

Mussels in Cuisine

Mussels are a versatile and delicious seafood celebrated in kitchens worldwide.

Due to Australia’s diverse food cultures, mussels are often prepared simply steamed with white wine, garlic and herbs. They are commonly served in pasta dishes or paella. Some recipes involve grilling them to open them, which is less common. A popular preparation is to steam them in coconut milk with lemongrass, chilli and fragrant herbs and spices. 

Mussels are a staple ingredient in Italian cuisine, featured in a wide variety of dishes including pasta, risotto, stuffed with breadcrumbs and in seafood and fish soups. Their briny juices are used to enhance the many versions of wet mussel dishes with various aromatic herbal sauces. This is also the  popular way that mussels are featured in other European cuisine.

In European cultures such as France, Greece and Spain, mussels are a prominent feature of culinary traditions, particularly in wet dishes served with rich herbal and fragrant sauces.

Shellfish in Cuisine

Shellfish hold an important place in both Australian and Italian cuisines, though they are celebrated in distinct ways. In Australia, fresh local shellfish such as oysters, mussels, and scallops are often enjoyed simply—grilled, steamed, or served raw to highlight their clean, ocean-fresh flavour.

Italian cuisine, on the other hand, weaves shellfish into regional dishes that showcase centuries of coastal tradition, from spaghetti alle vongole to seafood risottos and mixed fritto di mare. In both countries, shellfish embody the connection between coastal living, fresh ingredients, and a deep respect for the sea.

RISO CON GLI ANGELI, Rice with angels

This Sicilian-inspired shellfish recipe is a celebration of the sea—fresh, vibrant, and deeply rooted in both tradition and sustainability.  It is a recipe in my book called Sicilian Seafood Cooking. (Angels by PONTORMO)

Sicily is an island and this recipe draws on the island’s rich coastal heritage, it brings together the pure flavours of sustainably sourced shellfish with the bright, sun-soaked ingredients that define Sicilian cuisine – garlic, olive oil, and a touch of chilli.

Every element of this dish reflects respect for the ocean and the land, showcasing how responsible seafood choices can deliver both environmental benefits and unforgettable Mediterranean flavour. It’s a recipe that tastes as good as it feels—simple, elegant, and sustainably delicious.

Interesting Observations in Sicilian Cooking

In Sicilian cooking, grated cheese is used sparingly with seafood—if at all—but when it is, it’s done with intention. Rather than overpowering the delicate flavours of the sea, a light dusting of pecorino or aged ricotta is used to add a touch of richness and depth, reflecting the island’s bold yet balanced approach to flavour.

In Sicily, rice was traditionally cooked in a simpler, more rustic way—boiled or baked rather than stirred continuously as in northern Italian risotto. This method reflects the island’s practical, resourceful cooking style, where rice absorbed the flavours of local ingredients without the need for the labor-intensive, creamy texture typical of risotto.

Recipe: RISO CON GLI ANGELI, Rice with angels

Ingredients

400g cockles

400g mussels

3 cups arborio, carnaroli or vialone rice

3 cloves garlic, chopped

½ cup finely cut parsley

¾–1 cup extra virgin olive oil

200g (7oz) prawns, shelled and de-veined, cut into pieces; some left whole

200g (7oz) squid (small with tentacles), cut into slices

100g (3½oz) of one or a mixture of: crabs, lobster, Moreton bay bugs, scallops (optional)

grated pecorino

salt and red chilli flakes to taste

Method

Clean the cockles and mussels (see pages 84 and 87 in my book: Sicilian Seafood Cooking). Steam in a covered frying pan coated with a little oil. Once opened, shell them, but reserve some mussels in their shells. Cut up the flesh and save the juice.

While you are preparing the seafood, cook the rice (add the rice to plenty of rapidly boiling, salted water). Drain and place in serving bowl.

In a wide pan, sauté the garlic and parsley in extra virgin olive oil. Add prawns, squid (and any other seafood) and season. Stir for a few minutes, then add the clam juice. Toss for a few minutes without reducing the liquid.

Add mussels and cockles (shelled and unshelled) and heat through.

Mix the seafood with the rice. Arrange some mussels in their shells on top to look like angels with open wings. Serve with grated cheese.

MUSSELS IN TRIESTE and Mussel recipes

SPAGHETTINI E COZZE; Spaghettini with mussels

ZUPPA DI COZZE SGUSCIATE: A thick soup made with Mussel Meat

SPAGHETTI WITH CRAYFISH OR CRAB (Spaghetti con Aragosta o Granco)

 

FAIR SEAFOOD, Adelaide Central Market

It seems that all of our Adelaide friends (irrespective of culture) discuss food and where to eat, and there was one place that almost everyone seem to recommend. It is in The Adelaide Central Market, and the stall called Fair Seafood and it deals with sustainable seafood.

We told others we saw, especially unexpected friends and acquaintances from Melbourne that  we encountered while in Adelaide: they then recounted that they indeed found this stall at the Adelaide Central Market and what a wonderful place it was to eat and to buy fish.

Finally, we got to go there. And it was indeed excellent.

It is called Fair Seafood.

Fair Seafood is the first and only Australian seafood wholesaler and retailer to provide 100% fisher-to-consumer traceability on all products. Customers can know where, when, how and by whom it was caught, and even more importantly, when and how it was processed.

100% Traceability, 100% Transparency, 100% Peace of Mind.

This is because the profess that Fair Seafood connects directly to fishers and the sellers know where, when, how and by who your seafood is caught. and they also know when and how it was processed. And this is indeed what we all want from  our fishmongers.

I also found out other information from various websites that mention Fair Seafood. Some of this I knew, but it was good to hear it again:

Over 75% of seafood consumed in Australia is imported from overseas.

Over 4,000 fish species in Australia – why do we put pressure on less than 9 common species.

89% of consumers buy filleted fish. The more fish is handled, the more it costs.

Adelaide is known for its premium and versatile fish industries.  When I go to Adelaide I think of King George Whiting, Garfish, Snapper, Sardines from Port Lincoln, Coorong Mullet, Goolwa Cockles, Mulloway, Squid and Tuna when it is sustainably caught, and Fair Seafood is focusing on selling only sustainable fish. To provide better value for buyers they sell more whole fish that requires less processing and also the lesser-known varieties that are not necessarily found at fishmongers.

And there is more:
Fair Seafood’s mission extends beyond sustainable seafood; it champions ethical and transparent practices within the industry. As consumers become more conscious of the impact of their choices, businesses like Fair Seafood are stepping up to meet the demand for sustainable options.

There were four of us. We had some simple dishes and very suitable for a quick lunch:

Sashimi Scallops, Sashimi Market fish, Sardines with Romesco sauce, a Cabbage Slaw and a Lobster roll.  All excellent, and of course we drank South Australian wine.

And why not?

Fair Seafood is at:

Stall 12, Adelaide Central Market

Shop 6,430 Brighton Road, Brighton

COOKING ‘ON THE ROAD’

I have not had time to do much writing as I have been travelling quite a bit , both in Victoria, New South Wales and  South Australia and not like some of my friends who have been travelling overseas.

I only take my iPad when I travel and writing posts is not something that I find easy on this device.

I am finding that inserting links to recipes that are already on the blog, pretty impossible and if you are interested in  some of the recipes, for example  about cockles or sea urchins use the search button. I am hoping that the photos are sufficient, but maybe not.

Below are some of the things I have cooked or prepared  lately. When one is ‘on the run’ one does not have the luxury of ingredients from home:

Mushrooms braised with saffron, white wine, tomato paste and parsley.

Goolwa cockles cooked with parsley, garlic and a splash of white wine. Parsley yet to be stirred through.

Braised red cabbage cooked in red wine and bay leaves and some smoked pork with whole meal spaghetti .

King George Whiting braised with with lemon slices,  fennel seeds and white wine. Fried capers till crisp added at last minute.

Sea urchin roe bought in brine and cooked with braised fennel, anchovies, garlic and chillies in wine,  parsley, roe grated lemon rind and lemon juice added right at the very end.

Burrata with basil mayonnaise, soft boiled eggs and a salad of avocado, lettuce, asparagus and baby tomatoes.

SPAGHETTINI E COZZE – Spaghettini with mussels

In Australia, Easter is not a significant cultural event, whereas in Italy it is closely associated with religious observances and traditionally, Italian Catholics eat fish on Good Friday, even if they are not practising Catholics, hence a mussel recipe.

Victoria is a prolific producer of mussels, which I regularly purchase at the Queen Victoria Market. These are typically farmed in Port Phillip Bay and recently from Mount Martha. When available, I prefer to visit Portarlington, where they are sold directly from the boats. Mussels are a sustainable seafood option.

I plan to cook something simple – a pasta dish with Mussels. Cozze in Italian, cuzzili in Sicilian.

This is not a complicated dish. It is made with fresh mussels and a little fresh tomato, but not so much to mask the taste of the other ingredients.

Red, ripe tomatoes are excellent at this time of year, but tinned tomatoes are also suitable. I  had some ripe, yellow heirloom tomatoes and added these as well in this sauce. The cause was slightly paler in colour but I did not taste any difference in taste.

Spaghetti (thin spaghetti) is used for this dish. The thin strands cook quickly but will also provide a greater surface area, allowing for greater absorption of the sauce.

The sauce is prepared quickly while the pasta is cooking. The same ingredients and method can be used with other fish, such as squid.

The use of grated cheese with fish is a traditional Sicilian practice. While it may not be common elsewhere in Italy, it is a distinctive feature of the dish. The cheese is optional, particularly if the fresh taste of the tomatoes is preferred.

spaghettini, 500g
mussels, 2 kg fresh, live mussels
red tomatoes, fresh, 500 g, chopped and peeled
garlic, 3 chopped…to taste
parsley, 1 cup finely chopped
extra virgin olive oil, ½ – ¾ cup
salt and pepper
basil, fresh, some stalks and leaves in the sauce and some leaves to decorate and provide a last-minute aroma
grated pecorino, (optional), to taste

Clean the mussels by rubbing them against each other in cold water (or use a scourer or brush). Pull the beards sharply towards the pointy end of the shell.
Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a deep pan.
Add the mussels.
Cover and cook over a brisk flame, shaking the pan every now and then, until the mussels have opened. Turn off the flame and let them cool slightly, then remove and discard the shells of about ¾ of them. Use the whole mussels for decoration.

If the mussels have not opened after sufficient time, they are still alive and can be returned to heat. Save the liquid from the mussels, some will be used in the sauce, but store the leftover in jars in the freezer- it makes good fish stock.

Add the onion to a new pan, sauté till golden.
Add the chopped tomatoes and some basil stalks with leaves attached (these can be removed at time of serving).
Simmer the sauce for about 8-10 minutes, just to blend the flavours and to evaporate some of the tomato juice. Place the tomato sauce aside.

Add some extra virgin olive oil and garlic to a new pan (or wipe down the same pan that you have used to cook the sauce).  Soften the garlic and add the parsley.

Cook the spaghettini.

Add the  mussel meat to the pan and toss the ingredients around for a few minutes before adding the tomato sauce and as much of the mussel juice as you think you will need for the sauce. Remove the cooked basil (it has done its job).
Add the mussels in their shells (gently) to warm through.

Drain the pasta. Add it to the pan with the rest of the ingredients toss them around till they are well coated. Be gentle with the cooked mussels in their shells as you want to keep the mussel meat in the shell.
Add fresh basil leaves.

Present with grated cheese for those who wish.

Pasta with cozze is eaten all over Italy but in Northern Italy parsley and garlic are the preferred flavourings and no tomatoes. No grated cheese in the north either!

MUSSELS, three ways: in brodetto, with spaghetti and risotto

COZZE IN BRODETTO (mussels in a little broth)

SAFFRON RISOTTO WITH MUSSELS (Risu cu Zaffaranu e Cozzuli is the Sicilian, Riso con Zafferano e Cozze is the Italian)

 

TUNNU `A STIMPIRATA – TONNO ALLA STEMPERATA (Tuna with onions, vinegar, capers and green olives)

Albacore tuna is sustainable, cheap in price and much under rated in Australia. It is not sashimi grade so the Asian export market does not want it and therefore in Australia we also tend to undervalue it. It is denser in texture but still excellent for cooking (lightly or cooked for longer).  As in Australia, Blue fin tuna is the preferred tuna in Sicily; if it is sustainable depends on how and where it is caught – it should be wild caught and aquaculture is not an option.

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Unfortunately I rarely find albacore tuna where I live in Melbourne and if I do, I always grab it when I can and cook it as I would cook blue fin tuna.

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I like tuna seared and left rare centrally but my Sicilian relatives eat tuna very well done and this is also how it is presented in the traditional home-style restaurants in Sicily.

In Sicily there are numerous ways tuna but Tonno alla stemperata is one of the favourites  in the south eastern part of Sicily. It was first cooked for me by one of my cousins, Rosetta, who lives in Ragusa. She and her husband have a holiday house on the beach at Marina di Ragusa, and she usually buys most of her fish from the fishermen on the beach.

Although Rosetta prefers to use tuna in this recipe, any firm-fleshed fish, thickly sliced, is suitable. She prefers to cut the tuna into large cubes – this allows greater penetration of the flavours in the sauce and of course, it will cook to a greater degree and more quickly.

Rosetta cooked the fish in the morning and we ate it for lunch, at room temperature…in Australia you may find this unusual but eating it at room temperature and some time after it has been cooked allows the flavours time to develop.

A version of this recipe is also in my first book: Sicilian Seafood Cooking.

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I have used Albacore tuna, trevally, mackerel or flathead (better choice category) successfully in this recipe.

tuna or firm-fleshed fish, 4 slices
sliced white onions, 2
capers, ½ cup, salted variety, soaked and washed
white wine vinegar, about 2 tablespoons or for a milder taste use 1 tablespoon of white wine and one of vinegar
extra virgin olive oil, about 2 tablespoons
salt, black pepper or red chilli flakes (as preferred by the relatives in Ragusa),
celery heart, 2 or 3 of the pale green stalks and young leaves, chopped finely
green olives, ½ cup, pitted, chopped
bay leaves, 4

Soften the onion and celery in about half of the extra virgin oil, and cook until the onion is golden, about 5 minutes, stirring frequently.

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Add the fish, olives, capers, seasoning and bay leaves and sear the fish. The pieces of fish only need to be turned once.

IMG_7646

Add the vinegar and allow the vinegar to evaporate and flavour the dish.

IMG_7647
Remove the fish from the pan if you think that it will overcook and continue to evaporate.

Optional: Decorate (and flavour) with mint just before serving.

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You can tell I am in South Australia by some of the photos of the fabulous varieties of fish I am able to purchase in Adelaide when I visit.

A SEAFOOD CHRISTMAS Feast with Fran Kelly – RADIO NATIONAL BREAKFAST PROGRAMME

INTERVIEW ON ABC RADIO NATIONAL BREAKFAST WITH FRAN KELLY discussing a Sicilian seafood feast for an Australian Christmas

I  first published this post on 7/12/2011

This morning I had the privilege of joining Fran Kelly on ABC Radio National’s Breakfast program to talk about my book, Sicilian Seafood Cooking, and the rich traditions of Sicilian Christmas feasts.

We discussed how Sicilians celebrate with seafood but mainly this is on Christmas Eve – elegant, vibrant dishes that capture the essence of the Mediterranean and how Australians might embrace these flavours as a delicious, sustainable alternative to the traditional turkey, chicken, or ham.

When I plan a Christmas menu, I think beyond habit. I consider who I’m feeding, the weather, how much I want to cook, and what looks fresh at the market. I ask myself: what will be the showpiece of this meal? Will it be an antipasto that sets the tone, a luscious pasta, or a stunning main course — or perhaps a series of small, memorable plates that celebrate the diversity of the sea?


ISciacca+fish+B

In Sicilian Seafood Cooking, many traditional recipes call for swordfish and tuna – prized in Sicily but now often overfished. I’ve honoured these dishes by keeping their names and heritage, but I also offer sustainable alternatives, showing that flavour and responsibility can, and should, coexist beautifully on our plates.

Sustainability in seafood isn’t just a trend — it’s an urgent responsibility. The seas that have nourished generations are under increasing pressure, and every choice we make as cooks and consumers matters. In Sicily, the sea is part of daily life; fishermen have long understood the rhythms of the tides and the importance of taking only what the ocean can give. I wanted that same respect to guide my book — to celebrate Sicilian culinary traditions while adapting them for a modern world that demands awareness and care.

By choosing locally sourced, seasonal seafood, we not only protect marine ecosystems but also discover an extraordinary range of flavours and textures. Mackerel, sardines, squid, and mussels can all take centre stage, offering richness and depth equal to that of larger, threatened species. Cooking sustainably is not about compromise — it’s about creativity, connection, and honouring the true spirit of Mediterranean food culture.

spada DSC_0063

Sicilians begin their festive meals simply — perhaps with a plate of glossy olives, a handful of roasted nuts, or a few slivers of marinated seafood. These modest starters are intentional; they tease the palate without spoiling the appetite for what’s to come. Inspired by this tradition, I’ve chosen a light fish entrée to open the meal.

Pasta, of course, is indispensable on a Sicilian table. It’s a celebration in itself, and so I’ve offered several alternatives for the first course — each one reflecting the flavours of the sea and the season. For those who prefer something different, I’ve also included a rice dish. In Sicily, rice was once cooked quite plainly, never stirred continually like a northern risotto, yet always full of character and soul.

By the time you reach the second course, a pause may be welcome — but for those ready to continue, I’ve included two main dishes that bring the feast to a satisfying close. Each one carries the essence of Sicilian cooking: generosity, simplicity, and respect for the ingredients.

Fish restaurant_0118

Vegetables are not part of this particular menu, but they are absolutely central to Sicilian cuisine. In Sicilian Seafood Cooking, I’ve included many vibrant vegetable recipes — dishes that showcase the island’s love of fresh, seasonal produce. And, of course, the book is filled with beautiful photography — not only of the food but also of Sicily itself. As Fran mentioned during our interview, the images capture the soul of the island: its light, its colours, and its deep connection to the sea.

The landscape photographs were taken by my partner during our journeys around Sicily — from bustling fish markets to quiet coastal villages. The food photography was by Graeme Gillies, with styling by Fiona Rigg, whose eye for texture and authenticity brought each dish to life. Every recipe in the book was cooked by me, in just five days, in my small kitchen at home. Meanwhile, the photographer and stylist transformed my dining room into a studio. It was intense, creative, and deeply satisfying .

Starter / Antipasto

TONNO CUNZATO

Raw Marinaded Tuna

The fish needs to be fresh and of excellent quality and sliced thinly. Keep it in the fridge while it is in the marinade. The recipes for marinating tuna suggest using a mixture of 7 parts vinegar to 3 parts lemon juice. I prefer to use just lemon juice or 9 parts lemon juice to 1 part vinegar. You may wish to experiment.

This dish is usually served as an antipasto.

Suitable fish:

The recipe is intended for bluefin tuna which is not sustainable unless it is line caught. Any skinless fillet cut thinly can be marinated the same way.

Ingredients:
500g tuna or other thinly cut, skinless fish
Juice of 4 lemons
¼ – ½ cup white wine vinegar
Dried oregano to taste
2 spring onions (scallions) finely chopped
2-3 stalks celery (pale green stalks and leaves from heart) finely chopped
½ cup capers
¼ cup finely cut parsley
¾ cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt & freshly ground pepper
Method:
Marinate the fish in the lemon juice and vinegar, making sure that the fish is covered with the marinade. Add oregano and place in the fridge for 30 minutes.
For the dressing, mix together the spring onions, celery, capers, parsley, olive oil and seasoning. When ready to serve, remove the fish from the marinade and pour the dressing on top.
 

First Course

RAVIOLI DI RICOTTA CU NIURU DI SICCI

Ricotta Ravioli With Black Ink Sauce

Ingredients
2 ½ cups of ricotta
Salt to taste
Extras: sugar, citrus peel or finely cut marjoram
1 quantity pasta (recipe p45)
 pasta with black inkJPG
Black ink sauce:
600g squid or cuttlefish plus 2-3 ink sacs
1 medium onion &/or 2 cloves garlic
½ cup olive oil
100g ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped
1 large tblsp tomato paste
1 cup finely cut parsley
1 cup white wine
Salt
Chilli flakes or freshly ground pepper
Clean the squid or cuttlefish carefully and extract the ink sac. Cut into 1cm rings and set aside. The tentacles can also be used.
For the sauce, sauté the onion and garlic in the oil, add the tomatoes and tomato paste, parsley, white wine and sale. Bring to the boil and reduce until the salsa is thick.
Cook the pasta.
Add the ink and chilli flakes to the sauce and mix well. Add the squid rings and cook over a medium-high heat until the squid is cooked to your liking.
Method:
Drain the ricotta
Place it in the colander lined with cheesecloth and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight.
Mix the ricotta with a little salt and any of the extra flavourings.
Make the ravioli
The most authentic and quickest way to cut the ravioli is by hand. There is no prescribed size- can be round or square or half-moon shaped.
To make individual ravioli, cut pasta into circles or squares. Place heaped teaspoons of stuffing in the centre of each, continuing until all the stuffing is used. For half-moon shapes fold the pasta over the filling. For others lay another circle or square over the top then moisten edges with a little water and press together carefully to seal properly.
Set the finished ravioli on a lightly floured cloth. They can rest in a cool place for up to two hours.
Cooking
Cook the ravioli as you would any pasta. Lower them into water a few at a time and scoop each out when it floats to the surface.
Dress them carefully with the black ink sauce so as not to break them. Serve as is or with a scoop of ricotta or some grate pecorino.

First course

RISO CON GLI ANGELI

Rice with Angels

Ingredients
400g cockles
400g mussels
3 cups arborio, carnaroli or vialone rice
3 cloves garlic, chopped
½ cup finely cut parsley
¾–1 cup extra virgin olive oil
200g (7oz) prawns, shelled
and de-veined, cut into pieces; some left whole
200g (7oz) squid (small with tentacles), cut into slices
100g (3½oz) of one or a
mixture of: crabs, lobster, Moreton bay bugs, scallops (optional)
grated pecorino
salt and red chilli flakes to taste
vogolefresh2a
Method
Clean the cockles and mussels (see pages 84 and 87). Steam in a covered frying pan coated with a little oil. Once opened, shell them, but reserve some mussels in their shells. Cut up the flesh and save the juice.
While you are preparing the seafood, cook the rice (add the rice to plenty of rapidly boiling, salted water). Drain and place in serving bowl.
In a wide pan, sauté the garlic and parsley in extra virgin olive oil. Add prawns, squid (and any other seafood) and season. Stir for a few minutes, then add the clam juice. Toss for a few minutes without reducing the liquid.
Add mussels and cockles (shelled and unshelled) and heat through.
Mix the seafood with the rice. Arrange some mussels in their shells on top to look like angels with open wings. Serve with grated cheese.

First course

SPAGHETTI CON L ’ARAGOSTA

Spaghetti with crayfish

pasta e granchi (crabs)_0090

 

The terms lobster and crayfish are often used interchangeably, but the marine species are lobsters and the freshwater species are crayfish. There are many types of lobsters known by a variety of local names.

Lobsters (aragoste) are popular around Trapani, although they are expensive. When making pasta with aragosta, I often buy spiders (the legs) – they can be quite meaty and very suitable for a pasta dish that requires cooked lobster. When buying lobster, select a heavy specimen with a good strong shell. They molt several times in their life cycle and, if they are pale with a thin shell, they are not likely to have much flesh. As for size, anything less than 1.5 kg (3lb 5oz) is not worth buying – a lobster under that size doesn’t have enough meat, especially from the spiders.

There is no comparison between the taste of a freshly cooked lobster and one purchased already cooked.Although this recipe is especially suited for lobsters, other crustaceans can be used.
This dish requires cooked lobster and it is added last. The other ingredient sare raw and pounded in a mortar and pestle (or pulsed in a food processor). The raw ingredients can also be finely chopped and mixed together. Use fresh ripe tomatoes.

This pasta dish is fantastic for the hot weather and it could be part of a celebratory lunch (such as Christmas in the Southern Hemisphere).

Ingredients
Lobster, no less than 50g (1¾oz) of meat per person
Juice of 3 lemons, plus grated zest of 1 lemon
about ½ cup extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic
600g (1lb 5oz) ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and drained, chopped
1 small bunch of basil
½ cup finely cut parsley
½ cup capers; if salted soaked and thoroughly rinsed
500g (17½oz) spaghetti or spaghettini
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Method
Remove the flesh from the lobster, tear or cut into small portions and place it in a bowl with the juice of 1 lemon and some of the oil.
Use a mortar and pestle to combine the rest of the ingredients. Begin with
the garlic, then add the tomatoes, seasoning, and some more oil. Then stir in
the basil, parsley capers and, lastly, the zest of 1 lemon – stir these into the
pesto. Add some of the lemon juice, taste the pesto and add more if necessary
(you may not need all of the lemon juice).
Cook and drain the spaghetti. Arrange in a serving bowl, add the pesto
and lobster and mix it gently. I like to add more grated lemon zest on top.
 

Second Course

CALAMARETTI RIPIENI CON MARSALA E MANDORLE

Stuffed calamari with fresh cheese, almonds and nutmeg braised in marsala

Ingredients
6 medium squid (or 12 small squid)
1 cup breadcrumbs, made from good-quality day-old bread, toasted in a little oil
2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, finely cut
¼–½ teaspoon nutmeg
150g (5oz) fresh cheese (tuma, pecorino fresco, mozzarella, fior di latte or bocconcini), cut into small cubes
1 cup dry marsala
½ cup almonds, blanched and chopped
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Squid@market_0022 copy
Method
Clean the squid: pull off the head and the inside of the squid and discard. Cut
off tentacles and save them for another time.
Mix the remaining ingredients except the oil together; check the seasoning.
Stuff the squid and secure each end with a toothpick.
Sauté each squid in olive oil – when the juice escapes it caramelises – turning once only during cooking. Alternatively, cover with foil and bake in a 200°C (400°F) oven for about 10 minutes. The squid will produce its own juice. To caramelise, remove foil and bake the squid for an extra 10 minutes.
Variation
Add chopped pistachio rather than almonds.

 

Second course

PESCE INFORNATO CON PATATE ACETO E ACCIUGHE 

Baked fish with potatoes, vinegar and anchovies

 

Ingredients
1–1.5kg (2lb 4oz–3lb 5oz) whole fish, or large pieces
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 onions, finely chopped a small bunch parsley, finely chopped
250g (9oz) potatoes, thinly sliced
3–6 anchovies, finely chopped (see above)
juice of 2 lemons, plus grated zest of 1 lemon
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
snapper
Suitable fish
Any whole fish or large fillets of medium to firm fish, preferably with the skin
on. The fish is cooked whole and carved like meat at the table.
Method
If using whole fish or fillets with skin, make a series of slashes in the skin. Mix
the oil with the vinegar, onions and parsley. Add seasoning and marinate the
fish for about an hour, turning frequently.
Place the fish in an ovenproof dish, spoon half of the marinade over it and bake for 10 minutes in a 200°C (400°F) oven. Arrange the sliced potatoes around the fish. Sprinkle the potatoes and the fish with more marinade, the anchovies, lemon juice and grated zest. Bake for another 20–35 minutes, depending on the type of fish. Serve hot.
Variation
 Place rosemary and bay leaves underneath the fish in the baking pan.

SICILIAN SEAFOOD CHRISTMAS: My interview with Fran Kelly was mainly about my book, SICILIAN SEAFOOD COOKING. She asked me submit some recipes that would be suitable for an Australian Christmas

https://www.abc.net.au/listen/programs/radionational-breakfast/3719180
 
BAKED FISH WITH POTATOES and ANCHOVIES
CALAMARI RIPIENI CON FORMAGGIO FRESCO E MARSALA (Stuffed calamari with fresh cheese and braised in marsala)

 

TRIGLE (Red Mullet) AND ORECCHIETTE (pasta)

Red Mullet 2

In this recipe I am using Red Mullet, also known as Goatfish; they are called Trigle in Italian. In Australia this little fish is very underrated, but travel to any country around the Mediterranean and southern Europe and you will find that it is highly esteemed.

Orecchiette, (pasta shaped like little ears) are popular in Puglia, a region in southern Italy bordering the Adriatic Sea in the east and the Ionian Sea to the southeast.

Replace the Red Mullet with any other sweet tasting white fish, such as whiting or try crabmeat – both are sustainable. Pink Ling, Red Snapper and Red emperor  are also suitable for this dish and all have an attractive pink skin; they are all fished in Australia and/or New Zealand and both countries aim to manage for a sustainable and productive stock (overfishing has occurred in the past and stocks in certain locations still require rebuilding – in Think Twice Category by The Australian Marine Conservation Society).

Gurnard

I always select less than the standard recommended 100g of pasta per person, especially if it is not for a main course. The following amount will feed 5-6 people in my household.

Red snapper fillets

300g fish: red mullet or similar cut into bite size pieces
300g broccoli or cauliflower or broccolini ( separated or cut into small pieces)
400g orecchiette
150g anchovies
¾ cup of olive oil,
2 cloves of garlic, chopped finely
1 cup of chopped parsley
4 chopped tomatoes
1-2 chillies, remove the seeds if you do not want the dish to be hot

salt to taste

 Sauté the garlic and chillies in about ½ cup of oil, add the broccoli and toss them around in the pan until they are well coated. Add the chopped anchovies and cook until softened. You may prefer to leave the broccoli with a little crunch – if not – add a splash of water and cook for longer.
Remove the contents from the pan and set aside.
Pan-fry the fish lightly in the same pan with the rest of the oil.
Add the chopped tomatoes and parsley and cook for a few minutes until the tomatoes have softened.
Mix the two cooked components and reheat.
Dress the cooked pasta with the above sauce and serve.

INVOLTINI DI PESCE (Rolled fish: Fish fillets rolled around a herb stuffing)

There is a sense of celebration associated with eating fish and this recipe for rolled fish could be a good starter to a meal – great for any of these festive occasions.

Whiting roll ups

It is Christmas eve and I intend making these as a starter tonight. It will be a menu of all fish in keeping with the Italian tradition of abstaining from meat; this is a left over practice from days when Catholics did not eat meat during certain days in Advent, a time of expectant waiting and preparation for the celebration of the Nativity of Jesus.

Xmas baubles

These little morsels are fish fillets rolled around a light stuffing– only herbs, lemon peel and garlic are used. Fillets of small fish (with skin on) are suitable: anything from mild-flavoured whiting, stronger tasting flathead to even stronger oilier fish such as mullet or sardines. They can be pan-fried in a  non stick frypan with  a little butter or extra virgin olive oil and then eaten with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. You may also wish to deglaze the pan with a little white wine or use orange juice (juice of 2 oranges), these will provide a ready-made sauce. For the orange juice option you could use fresh basil as the herb for the stuffing.

I have made these little rolls many times. Sometimes I have deglazed the pan with Marsala (dry), or white wine. I have also used tarragon as my herb and used vermouth. An alternative stuffing can be made using some breadcrumbs (made from 1 day old, sour dough bread), toast them in a  frypan with a little extra virgin olive oil. To these add a little minced garlic, chopped parsley, grated lemon peel, a sprinkling of sugar and a little nutmeg. Pine nuts and currants can also be added to this stuffing.

Fish fillets rolled around a herb stuffing is one of the recipes is in my book, Small Fishy Bites.

small_fishy_bites_high res

 INGREDIENTS AND PROCESSES
6 fish fillets from small fish, I used King George whiting
fresh herbs for stuffing (rosemary, parsley, oregano or marjoram)
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil or butter or a mixture of both
salt and freshly ground pepper
fresh bay leaves
grated peel of 1 orange or lemon
Flatten each fillet; if using large fillets, cut into smaller strips. Sprinkle each with a little salt and pepper.
Chop the herbs finely and leave a small sprig to insert at one end of the fish rolls (for decoration).
Mix the herbs, garlic and peel with 1 tablespoon of olive oil (or soft butter- this is less Sicilian). Place a little of the stuffing at one end of each fillet and roll up. Secure each roll with a toothpick and place a sprig of herbs at one end.
Sauté fish rolls in remaining extra virgin olive oil and /or the butter.
Add a little seasoning and bay leaves and continue to cook the fish until it is ready.
Serve with a squeeze of lemon.
Elena's Magi plate

 

CHATHAM ISLANDS BLUE COD, cooked in cartoccio (in a bag in English or en papillote in French)

Blue cod on sticks

I bought this fish at the Queen Victoria Market. What motivated me to buy it was the sustainable label. My fish vendor does not usually label his fish as sustainable and I was quite impressed. In fact I shook his hand.

I chose to ignore the fact that it comes from New Zealand – flown in daily the vendor said.  Unfortunately it is not exactly local. It was $32.00 per kilo. It weighed one kilo.

He always asks me if I want whole fish filleted. I always say no.

‘Best steamed’ he said. So I chose to bake it in baking paper – in cartoccio – it keeps in the moisture.

I wanted to taste the fish not drown it in flavours so I chose simple flavours: caper berries, slivers of garlic and some parsley and fresh rosemary and bay leaves to stuff the cavity of the fish.

Uncooked-blue-cod-1

You will notice that the fish is greenish-blue to blue-black in colouring. It is a white fish with medium texture and the flesh remained very moist.The Blue Cod are caught sustainably because potting is used – The pots are baited and once the fish is inside they are trapped. Each pot is set at a size that allows younger undersized fish to escape and any by-catch is released unharmed.

If I want sustainable fish I have to be prepared to pay for it and you can see why the price is high.

Either use 2 sheets of baking paper or use one sheet of baking paper on top of some metal foil. The two layers will help prevent the paper from breaking when you put it in a serving dish.

 

INGREDIENTS
1 fish, 1k – I used Chatman Islands Blue Cod
fresh rosemary and bay leaves to insert in the stuffing
3 large garlic cloves, cut into slivers
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
caper berries, about 10
½ cup of chopped parsley

PROCESSES
Preheat oven to 220C
Make sure the cavity of the fish is very well cleaned and stuff it with the rosemary and bay.
Place 2 large sheets of baking paper on a baking tray, sprinkle it with salt, pepper and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Sprinkle a little parsley some garlic slivers and some capers on the paper and place the fish on top.
Repeat what you did on the bottom of the fish on top of the fish.
Wrap the fish completely in the paper and place it in a baking pan, then bake in the oven for 25- 30 minutes. (I prefer my fish not to be overcooked). Remove the pan from oven and leave the fish wrapped up in the paper for an extra 10 minutes.

cooked blue cod

Take it out of the paper and keep the juices as the sauce. Drizzle a little extra olive oil on top and some more freshly ground black pepper – I cannot help being Italian!

TONNO E PISELLI (Tuna and peas)

Finally, Albacore tuna is available again in one stall at the Queen Victoria market. This tuna is sustainable, it is a lean fish and it can be quite dry if served without a sauce.

You can buy albacore tuna cut as a fillet or as slices from the centre of the fish – this cut will include the spinal bones and if you are braising the fish the bones will contribute to the taste. In Sicily this cut of tuna is called a ruota (wheel); the bones can then be easily removed at the time of serving. The wheel of tuna will have the skin still on make sure that the scales have been removed and make splits into the skin to stop it curling. Or you can remove the skin altogether.

Tuna and peas is a very common combination for Italians. I remember so vividly my maternal grandmother cooking wheels of tuna in very crowded saucepans, bubbling away on her stove in Catania, Sicily. Sometimes she also added tomatoes to the braise and studded the tuna with cloves of garlic.

Peas are sweet, hence the cinnamon stick. Sometimes I add nutmeg instead (for the same reason). Both the cinnamon and the nutmeg are optional; if using nutmeg, add it at the final stages of cooking.

Once cooked, you can also remove the centre bone, break up the tuna and serve it as a pasta sauce.

For 4 people

INGREDIENTS
1 slice of albacore tuna (about 700g)
1 onion,
400g of shelled peas
½ cup of extra virgin olive oil,
salt and pepper
2-3 fresh bay leaves
1tbs tomato paste for colour (optional)
1 cup of white dry wine
1-2 cinnamon sticks or some grated nutmeg (optional)

PROCESSES
Sauté the chopped onion lightly in the oil – use low heat.
Add the tuna and seal on both sides.
Add seasoning, bay leaves, wine and cinnamon stick.
Cover and simmer for 15-20 minutes. Add the peas 10 minutes into the cooking and If adding nutmeg add it at this time. Do not let the braise get dry and add a little more liquid (water and or wine) if necessary.

 

If using it as a pasta sauce:

Use 400 g pasta, short shapes.
Leave the fish in the pan while you cook the pasta.
Drain it.
Remove the central bones from the tuna (if there are any) and return them to the pan.
Dress the pasta and serve.
Unlike the rest of Italy, Sicilians include grated cheese with fish.

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