Category: Simple Recipe

CASSATA SICILIANA: SBS ITALIAN EASTER RECIPE

When I was asked to share an Easter recipe for SBS Italian Radio, I immediately chose cassata Siciliana — a dessert that truly represents Sicily, its history, flavours, and identity.

For the occasion, I prepared the recipe along with some notes in Italian to accompany the radio discussion, aiming to convey not just the steps, but also the cultural meaning behind this traditional dessert.

In this post, I have also included some photos of the cassata being made. These are not on the SBS website, but they help to show the process more clearly.

The remainder of the post is in Italian and I was interviewed by Massimiliano Gugole from SBS Radio Italian.

IN ITALIAN

Quando mi è stato chiesto di condividere una ricetta di Pasqua per SBS Italian Radio, ho scelto subito la cassata siciliana — un dolce che rappresenta bene la Sicilia sapori — la sua storia, i suoi sapori e la sua identità.

Per l’occasione ho preparato la ricetta e alcune note in italiano per accompagnare la conversazione in radio, cercando di trasmettere non solo i passaggi, ma anche il significato culturale di questo dolce tradizionale

In questo post ho aggiunto anche alcune foto della preparazione della cassata. Non sono presenti sul sito di SBS, ma aiutano a vedere meglio i passaggi.

****If you would like to listen to the interview and discussion in Italian on SBS Radio, here is the link:
90.avif

La cassata siciliana, nella ricetta di Marisa Raniolo Wilkins

https://www.sbs.com.au/language/italian/it/podcast-episode/la-cassata-siciliana-nella-ricetta-di-marisa-raniolo-wilkins/szz86479i 

Notes – Per parlare sulla radio

Cassata Siciliana — Tradizione e Gusto
  • La cassata siciliana è uno dei dolci più rappresentativi della Sicilia, soprattutto nel periodo di Pasqua. È un dolce ricco, scenografico, che racchiude storia, cultura e tradizione.
  • La cassata è un’opera culinaria che testimonia secoli di storia.  Dalle influenze fenicie, che introdussero le mandorle, all’apporto arabo, che portò zucchero, frutta secca, marzapane e agrumi, e al contributo spagnolo, che portò il pan di Spagna. I monsù, cuochi francesi al servizio delle famiglie aristocratiche siciliane, ne perfezionarono la presentazione, mentre le suore nei conventi custodirono e tramandarono le ricette tradizionali.
  • Alla base troviamo il pan di Spagna, soffice e leggermente inumidito con un liquore.
  • Il cuore della cassata è la ricotta, preferibilmente di pecora, lavorata con zucchero fino a diventare una crema liscia e delicata.’è un gesto semplice, ma molto significativo, che appartiene alla tradizione della cassata: la ricotta non si mescola soltanto — si passa al setaccio.
  • Alla ricotta si aggiungono piccoli pezzi di cioccolato fondente, pistacchi e scorze di agrumi canditi.
  • Il dolce viene poi assemblato in uno stampo: il pan di Spagna riveste base e lati, si riempie con la crema di ricotta, si chiude e si lascia riposare in frigorifero per una notte.
  • Il giorno dopo si sforma e si ricopre con la pasta reale/il marzapane, spesso di colore verde chiaro, e si decora con frutta candita.
  • La cassata, in tutte le sue varianti, `e un emblema di celebrazione. Le pasticcerie siciliane sono rinomate per la loro maestria nella preparazione e decorazione delle cassate. 
Cassata Siciliana — Ricetta Tradizionale
Consigli:

La cassata si prepara al meglio in due giorni. Si assembla il dolce il giorno prima e si lascia riposare in frigorifero per tutta la notte affinché si compatti. Anche il pan di Spagna beneficia di essere preparato in anticipo.

Note sugli Ingredienti

Ricotta

Usare ricotta soda e ben scolata, preferibilmente di pecora, naturalmente più dolce e saporita.

Spesso viene venduta in forme intere e tagliata al momento — questa è la migliore.

Evitare la ricotta confezionata in vaschetta, generalmente troppo acquosa e poco saporita. Se non avete alternative, è consigliabile scolarla per tutta la notte.

Per un ripieno più ricco, si può aggiungere un po’ di panna densa durante la lavorazione.

Frutta Candita

La frutta candita è conservata in uno sciroppo zuccherino che ne mantiene la morbidezza e ne intensifica il sapore. (Si chiama anche glacé)

Se possibile, utilizzare scorze di agrumi canditi di buona qualità oppure fette intere di arancia candita, invece della comune frutta candita mista.

Il cedro ha un ruolo importante nella pasticceria siciliana. Coltivato in Sicilia e in Calabria, si riconosce per la buccia spessa, dal verde al giallo.

Liquore

Usare secondo il proprio gusto. Alcune opzioni:

  • Liquori all’arancia: Cointreau, Grand Marnier
  • Liquore al mandarino: Mandarine Napoléon
  • Altri: Marsala dolce, Amaretto, Strega, Maraschino
Le foto: Come preparare la cassata

Ci sono tre parti da preparare:

  • Il pan di Spagna
  • Il marzapane
  • Il ripeno

 

Il pan di Spagna
Il ripieno – ricotta,  zucchero, cioccolato , pistacchi, scorze d’agrumi candite
Il pan di Spagna tagliato in quattro strati. Il marzapane steso tra due pellicole
Il marzapane, di due colori – naturale e verde. La confettura per attaccare il pan di Spagna

PREPARAZIONE DELLO STAMPO

Lo stampo foderato, il pan di Spagna -uno stato di sotto, e due strati per rivestire i lati. L’ultimo strato di sopra per coprire il ripieno.
L’ultimo strato di pan di Spagna per coprire il ripieno
Con un peso di sopra
La cassata sformata è ricoperta da una glassa di marzapane. La confettura viene utilizzata per facilitare l’adesione del marzapane al pan di Spagna
Quadretti del marzapane verde per l’applicazione sui lati
Quasi!
Eccola!

**Sul blog All Things Sicilian And More ci sono parecchi post della Cassata con altre foto, ma scritte in Inglese.

EASTER IN SICILY: Faith, Spring, History and Cassata

CASSATA ( Post no. 2) Calls for a celebration!!!

SICILIAN CASSATA and MARZIPAN AT EASTER (Food and Culture in Sicily, La Trobe University)

SICILIAN CASSATA and some Background (perfect for an Australian Christmas)

RICETTA PER LA CASSATA SICILIANA ( SBS )

Ingredienti

Come la maggior parte delle ricette italiane, le quantità degli ingredienti non contano davvero. I cuochi si affidano al gusto, all’occhio e al tatto.

Ripieno di Ricotta

  • 700 g – 800g ricotta fresca (preferibilmente di pecora)
  • 120 g zucchero semolato
  • 60–100 g cioccolato fondente, tritato
  • 100 g pistacchi, tritati
  • 60–100 g scorze di agrumi canditi (arancia, limone, cedro)
  • ¼ cucchiaino vaniglia (o pasta di vaniglia)
  • ¼ cucchiaino cannella

Per Assemblare

  • Circa 450 g pan di Spagna, fatto in casa (questo il peso quando acquistato nei negozi commerciali
  • Pasta reale (marzapane) per copertura
  • Frutta candita per decorare
  • ½ tazza (o più) di confettura di albicocche
  • ½–¾ tazza di liquore (o più, a piacere)

Pan di Spagna

Preparare 1–3 giorni prima.

Ingredienti

  • 5 uova
  • 120 g zucchero
  • 100 g farina setacciata
  • Scorza di limone e/o vaniglia
  • Burro per lo stampo

Procedimento

  1. Montare i tuorli con lo zucchero fino a ottenere un composto chiaro e cremoso.
  2. Montare gli albumi a neve ferma.
  3. Incorporare delicatamente gli albumi al composto di tuorli.
  4. Unire la farina setacciata e gli aromi.
  5. Versare in uno stampo imburrato e cuocere a forno moderato per circa 40 minuti, fino a doratura.
  6. Lasciare raffreddare completamente prima di tagliare.

Ripieno di Ricotta

  1. Lavorare la ricotta con lo zucchero fino a ottenere una crema liscia. (In alternativa, sciogliere lo zucchero in poca acqua per ottenere uno sciroppo, lasciarlo raffreddare e poi unirlo alla ricotta
  2. Aggiungere:
    • vaniglia
    • cannella
    • un goccio di liquore (facoltativo)
  3. Incorporare:
    • cioccolato
    • pistacchi
    • frutta candita

Mescolare delicatamente.

Pasta Reale (Marzapane)

Ingredienti

  • 500 g mandorle pelate e macinate finemente
  • 300 g zucchero a velo
  • 1 albume
  • Vaniglia q.b.
  • Un pizzico di sale
  • Qualche goccia di colorante verde

Procedimento

  1. Montare leggermente l’albume con il sale fino a renderlo spumoso.
  2. Aggiungere la vaniglia.
  3. Incorporare gradualmente mandorle e zucchero, impastando fino a ottenere un composto liscio ed elastico.
  4. Regolare la consistenza:
    • aggiungere mandorle o zucchero se troppo morbido
    • aggiungere poca acqua se troppo duro
  5. Avvolgere nella pellicola e conservare in frigorifero.

Quando sarete pronti per coprire la cassata:

Facoltativo:

Dividere in due parti e colorarne una di verde, oppure è decorato a larghe strisce verdi e del colore naturale del marzapane.

Stendere il marzapane tra due fogli di carta da forno.

Preparazione dello Stampo

  • Foderare uno stampo rotondo (da 25–30 cm) con pellicola o alluminio.
  • Tagliare il pan di Spagna in 4 strati.
  • Rivestire anche i lati dello stampo con le fette di pan di Spagna, utilizzando confettura se necessario per fissarle.

Assemblaggio della Cassata

  1. Disporre uno strato sul fondo e spennellare leggermente con confettura di albicocche.
  2. Inumidire con un po’ di liquore.
  3. Riempire lo stampo con il composto di ricotta e livellare.
  4. Coprire con l’ultimo strato di pan di Spagna.
  5. Inumidire leggermente con liquore.
  6. Coprire e porre un leggero peso sopra.

Mettere in frigorifero per tutta la notte.

Copertura e Decorazione

(Da fare il giorno del servizio)

  1. Sformare la cassata.
  2. Spalmare uno strato sottile di confettura di albicocche.
  3. Coprire con la pasta reale stesa.
  4. Decorare con frutta candita.

Mantenere in frigorifero fino al momento dell’uso.

PESCE CRUDO ALLA SICILIANA WITH CITRUS AND AROMATICS

Pesce Crudo alla Siciliana is one of the purest expressions of Sicilian seafood and it is: thinly sliced fish, lightly marinated in citrus, and finished with the fresh, aromatic flavours of the island.

In Sicily, raw fish is treated with great respect. A good dish of pesce crudo always begins with fish of extraordinary quality — impeccably fresh, carefully cleaned, and sliced as finely as a carpaccio. The preparation is simple, but the result is vibrant, elegant, and deeply connected to place.

I will definitely Make a Pesce Crudo over the upcoming Festive season.

What Is Pesce Crudo alla Siciliana?

Today, pesce crudo can be prepared with many types of fish and seafood. Delicate white fish fillets, sea urchins, calamari, octopus, prawns (especially red prawns), and scampi are all common. Sardines and anchovies, usually filleted rather than served whole, are also much loved.

What makes the dish unmistakably Sicilian is the choice of garnishes. These echo the island’s landscape and aromas: citrus juice and zest (especially blood orange), capers, olives, salted anchovies, fresh herbs such as mint, oregano, basil, or wild fennel, and often a touch of chilli. Almonds or pistachios add texture, while paper-thin slices of fruit or vegetables — strawberry, peach, vanilla persimmon, cucumber, fennel — Be inventive, bring colour and freshness to the plate.

Choosing the Right Fish in Melbourne

When preparing pesce crudo outside Sicily, freshness and sustainability are essential.

Below is some fish that is better than others when it comes to respect sustainability. Tips for Choosing Sustainable Seafood in Australia

  •  Check the species and fishery region — sustainability can differ significantly by area and stock. GoodFish

  • Look for independent certification labels like the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) for wild seafood. Australia & New Zealand

  • Ask how the fish was caught — line and pole methods generally have lower bycatch and habitat impact than longlines or trawls.

  • Use the GoodFish guide/app for real-time traffic-light ratings of local species

If using tuna, choose yellowfin tuna, ideally line-caught.
some fish that is better than others  –  options for raw preparations in Australia include:

  • Snapper

  • Flathead tails

  • Barramundi

  • Farmed kingfish from South Australia

  • Salmon (sourced from New Zealand)

Always buy from a trusted fishmonger and explain that the fish will be eaten raw.

Thinly Sliced Fish Marinated in Lemon with Sicilian Flavours
Ingredients (serves 2–4)

  • 250–300 g very fresh fish fillets, sliced paper-thin

  • Juice of 2 lemons

  • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

  • Extra virgin olive oil

  • A handful of capers, rinsed

  • Green or black olives, chopped

  • Finely grated zest of blood orange or lemon

  • Fresh herbs: mint, oregano, basil, or wild fennel

  • Fresh chilli, finely sliced (optional)

  • Roughly chopped almonds or pistachios

  • Very thin slices of fruit or vegetables (fennel, cucumber, strawberry, or prickly pear)

Method

Prepare the fish

Arrange the fish slices in a single layer on a serving plate. Lightly season with salt.

Marinate with lemon

Pour over enough lemon juice to just cover the fish. Cover and refrigerate for 10–15 minutes — just long enough for the citrus to lightly “cook” the surface.

Drain and season

Remove and discard the marinade. Dress the fish with extra virgin olive oil, black pepper, and citrus zest.

Add Sicilian flavours

Scatter over the capers, olives, chopped herbs, chilli (if using), and almonds or pistachios.

Finish with fruit or vegetables

Decorate with wafer-thin slices of fennel, cucumber, strawberry, or prickly pear for a fresh, colourful touch.

Serve immediately

This dish should remain bright, light, and impeccably fresh.

Pesce crudo as in a Trattoria in Mondello

GREAT BRITISH CHEFS GREAT ITALIAN CHEFS WEBSITE

** Some time ago I was asked to write three articles about Sicily for Great British Chefs/ Great Italian Chefs Website, one was about PESCE CRUDO

Read the complete article: Pesce crudo: Sicily’s love for raw fish

Photo that accompanies article in Great Italian Chef’s website
The other two articles:

Read the complete article: Culture clash: how North Africa changed Sicily forever

Read the complete article: Sicilian arancini: a complete guide

GREAT BRITISH CHEFS, GREAT ITALIAN CHEFS, Feature articles by Marisa Raniolo Wilkins

Other recipes on my blog about sustainable fish :

Raw fish:

PESCE CRUDO, raw fish dishes in Sicily

SARDINE, CRUDE E CONDITE (Sardines; raw and marinaded)

Photo from Sicilian Seafood Cooking. Food stylist Fiona Rigg, photogapher Graeme Gilles.

Sustainability

PASTA CON LE SARDE, an iconic Sicilian recipe from Palermo. Cooked at Slow Food Festival Melbourne

SUSTAINABLE SHELLFISH: Choices Shape the Sea’s Future

THE HUMBLE SARDINE, A SUSTAINABLE CHOICE

SHARKS IN PERIL. Recipe: Pesce in Pastella; fish in batter

ADELAIDE CENTRAL MARKET AT FAIR SEAFOOD

FAIR SEAFOOD, Adelaide Central Market

Soused fish:

PISCI ALL’ AGGHIATA – PESCE ALL’AGLIATA (Soused fish with vinegar, garlic and bay)

MARINADED FISH and a recipe for PESCE IN SAOR

CHEAT FOOD FOR LAUNCH OF SICILIAN SEAFOOD COOKING AT COASIT AND READINGS: Marinaded white anchovies AND Olive Schacciate made with commercially prepared olives

PIZZAIOLA: NAPLES, CAMPANIA

Pizzaiola (or alla pizzaiola) is a traditional, rustic Italian cooking style that uses simple ingredients from Naples, in the Campania region of southern Italy. It’s about simmering meat, typically inexpensive cuts of beef or veal in a rich tomato-based sauce seasoned with garlic, olive oil, parsley, and oregano.

The term pizzaiola comes from pizzaiolo, meaning “pizza maker,” and refers to the similarity between the sauce used in this dish and the classic Neapolitan pizza sauce. Both share basic ingredients like tomatoes, garlic, oregano, and olive oil that became iconic toppings after the 18th century, when tomatoes were fully integrated into southern Italian cuisine.

Carne alla pizzaiola is a perfect example of cucina povera – the “cuisine of the poor” – no-fuss cooking where simple, inexpensive ingredients are changed into flavourful meals.

The Meat: Tender or Tough. Quick Cooking or Slow Cooking?

Thin slices of beef (1cm)—such as fettine di manzo—are ideal for quick cooking. Cuts like Scotch fillet, porterhouse, or rump are tender enough for short simmering times.

But pizzaiola is also a great way to cook tougher cuts like blade steak, shoulder (spalla), or round (girello). I recently made it with topside and have used this cut of meat in previous times and after a longer, slow simmer, the meat became tender in the sauce.

Pizzaiola: Seasonal Variations

One of the joys of pizzaiola is how adaptable it is to the seasons:

Winter (with canned tomatoes):

I prefer to sear the meat first to add depth of flavour. Then, I gently cook garlic (sometimes whole cloves) in olive oil, add the canned tomatoes and oregano, and simmer the sauce for 10 minutes before adding the meat and parsley.

Summer (with fresh tomatoes):

When tomatoes are ripe and flavourful, I don’t sear. I combine raw meat with peeled, diced fresh tomatoes, herbs, oil and garlic right from the start—no pre-cooking. It’s lighter and fresher.

I often add sliced potatoes (just like my mother did). If using quick-cooking meat, slice potatoes thinly; for longer cooking cuts, slice them thicker so everything finishes together.

Classic Carne alla Pizzaiola (with Potatoes)

Serves 2

Ingredients:

  • 2–4 thin or medium-cut beef slices
  • 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
  • 400g tin crushed or peeled tomatoes, cut into chunks
  • 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 tsp dried oregano or 3 tbsp chopped fresh oregano
  • Salt & cracked black pepper to taste
  • 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley

Optional: 3–4 medium potatoes (Desiree or Sebago), peeled and cut into thick slices.

Instructions:

  • Heat olive oil in a large frypan over medium heat.
  • Add sliced garlic and cook gently until fragrant—don’t let it brown.
  • Sear beef steaks for 1–2 minutes per side to brown lightly.
  • Distribute potato slices (if using) between the meat.
  • Add tomatoes, oregano, salt, pepper, and parsley over the meat and potatoes.
  • Cover the pan, lower the heat, and simmer for 15–20 minutes (or 40-50mins for tougher cuts), turning steaks once. The sauce will thicken and the meat will become tender.

 

As you would expect I have written about Pizzaiola  in a previous post:

PIZZAIOLA (Steak cooked alla pizzaiola with tomatoes and herbs)

A few other braises:

GULASCH (Goulash as made in Trieste)

BRAISED KID (capretto) in a simple marinade of red wine, extra virgin olive oil and herbs

SPEZZATINO DI CAPRETTO (Italian Goat/ Kid stew)

POLLO OR GALLINA ALLA CONTADINA, ALLA PAESANA. Braised Chicken with Olives, Sicilian style.

Formaggio all’Argentiera (pan fried, fresh cheese, Sicilian)

Formaggio all’Argentiera is a Sicilian way to pan fry, fresh cheese and it is really worth doing. Unlike other pan fried cheese delights, it is presented with a simple sauce.

I had forgotten how much I particularly like Formaggio Fresco, pan fried with a sliver or two of garlic in a smidgen of extra virgin olive oil, sprinkled with a little dry oregano and de-glazed with a little red vinegar and a pinch of sugar (optional). This is how Sicilians like it.

Formaggio Fresco = Cheese Fresh….Fresh Cheese.

This  Sicilian recipe is called Formaggio all’Argentiera.

Why All’ Argentiera?

An argentiere in Italian is a silversmith.

All’argentiera means “in the style of…as an argentiere would cook it”.

Why this name?

An argentiere can afford the price of meat, a poor person cannot, however, the poor can afford to buy and cook cheese and pretend that he is eating meat. The lovely smells dissipating from the windows of the poor will give passers-by the impression  that just like a silversmith he can afford to eat meat. It is all to do with the making a bella figura syndrome.

The recipe is quick and easy, the difficulty could be finding what is called Formaggio Fresco. What is ‘fresh cheese?’

Some producers call Formaggio Fresco,  Fresh Pecorino,  but they are  both young cheese (aged typically 15- 45 days depending on the manufacturer). It is a white, semi soft, smooth and milky cheese,  good for slicing and for partially melting.

Pecorino is made from the milk of a pecora, (sheep), however, most Pecorino Fresco or Formaggio Fresco, especially in Australia  is made from cows’ pasteurized milk, salt and culture (usually rennet).

Aged Pecorino, whether Romano (Roman), Sardo (Sardinian), Toscano, or Siciliano is the firm, salty and sharp cheese we are familiar with and used for grating – you can eat it too.  In Italy they are DOP cheeses and made in the place of origin.

Stores that have Italian Produce are likely to have Formaggio Fresco  but I have also seen some in a few good supermarkets.

In Melbourne I can buy Formaggio Fresco made by these manufacturers: That’s Amore cheese, they call it cacciotta  and Pantalica make Bacio and Pecorino Fresco.

In Adelaide the manufacturers are: La Casa Del Formaggio and La Vera. I have seen La Vera sold in other Australian cities as well.

 

Formaggio all’Argentiera

A little extra virgin olive oil to fry the cheese.

Also: 1 large clove of garlic (cut into slivers), pinches of dried oregano,  1-2 tablespoons of red wine vinegar and a pinch of sugar.

I prefer to use a non-stick fry pan.

Heat the oil; use medium heat.

Add the garlic, the slices of cheese and lower the heat. Sprinkle the cheese with some of the dry oregano.

Cook that side of cheese until golden in colour, turn the cheese over and repeat with the dry oregano….cook for as long again.

Add the vinegar and sugar ( I sometime do) and deglaze the pan.

See also:

SICILIAN CHEESE MAKING. A VISIT TO A MASSARO (farmer-cheese maker) IN RAGUSA. Formaggio all’argentiera

Sicilian Cheese and more cheese

Moulinex – vellutate (veloutés), baby food and Pappa al Pomodoro

Moulinex vellutate, baby food purées and Pappa al Pomodoro evoke memories for many of us who grew up with a trusty Moulinex on the kitchen bench. This simple tool—so effective at making velvety soups and smooth—remains part of Italian kitchens and traditions.

A friend’s husband recently underwent surgery for a hiatus hernia and is now following a gradual recovery diet: first liquids, then purées, and eventually soft, mushy foods. But this doesn’t have to be dull. The pale beetroot Borsch I made recently was silky, nourishing and full of flavour—proof that puréed food can still feel comforting.

MOULINEX FOR BABY FOOD

This slow return to solids reminds me of the way Italian babies begin their food journey. When my younger brother was born, I was eight and watched my mother cook with care and delight. Years later I followed the same steps with my own children.

The gradual progression of the density of food and the complexity of ingredients seems very much like what babies experience when they are introduced to solids.

We began with minestrine, gentle broths with light vegetables, and pappe made with bread. Then came purées and small pastine, followed by semolina in brodo. My mother added puréed chicken, veal liver, fine minced chicken breast or a little white fish to broth with overcooked rice. Her vellutate—a broth blended with one or two vegetables—was enriched not with cream but with an egg yolk to keep it light and digestible. A drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and finely grated parmesan were introduced early.

7262C53C-BCC8-47C0-8175-2CF50D9E0562
The traditional Moulinex rotary mill, perfect for velvety soups and purées.

The heart of the operation was always the Moulinex (or Mouli)—a rotary vegetable mill that made perfect baby-food textures. Unlike blenders, which pulverise everything including tough skins, the Moulinex purées vegetables while leaving behind skins and fibres.

Vegetables like zucchini, green beans, carrot, pumpkin and potato were considered the easiest for babies to digest, with spinach added later. For brain-building, as my mother liked to say, she often made minestrine with white fish, sometimes enriched with puréed potatoes or tiny stelline pasta.

Stelline pasta

My brother and my son adored pappa di pane—simple bread simmered in water or broth until soft and creamy, then enriched with olive oil and eventually a little parmesan.

Later, stewed tomato (often cooked with a basil leaf) was added, and the Mouli came out again to remove skins and seeds. No wonder Italian babies develop such an early love of flavour.

My daughter always preferred broth with pastina.  The broth was made with meat and a carrot and a piece of celery, but not onion – this is too heavy for babies. The meat was removed and the carrot and celery were puréed once they were cooked and returned to the broth.

USING THE MOULINEX FOR ADULTS

The Moulinex made beautiful vegetable vellutate for the whole family. The mushroom vellutata was pretty good and made some with pulses – dried peas, lentils and chickpeas.

Basically, you can turn  any left over vegetables into a good looking, tasty vellutata and some good broth.

Adults, especially in Tuscany, never lose the taste for pappa. Pappa al Pomodoro, thickened with stale bread, remains a timeless dish. Although simple, every cook and region has its own variation. What matters most is the quality of tomatoes, bread, basil and olive oil. You can keep the tomatoes rustic, or use your Moulinex to create a smoother version.

You can see why Italian babies develop a palate – a taste for flavour!

Adults, especially in Tuscany, never lose the taste for pappa. Pappa al Pomodoro, thickened with stale bread, remains a timeless dish. Although simple, every cook and region has its own variation. What matters most is the quality of tomatoes, bread, basil and olive oil. You can keep the tomatoes rustic, or use your Moulinex to create a smoother version. And although this is a rather simple recipe, you can find various versions of it across Tuscany and some other regions of Italy.

Good produce, gentle cooking and simple tools like the Moulinex are at the heart of Italian comfort food—whether for babies, convalescing adults or anyone who loves nourishing, flavourful dishes.

Pappa al Pomodoro Recipe

Ingredients

  • 1 medium onion, finely diced
  • 2–3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • Extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to drizzle
  • 1 kg fresh tomatoes, peeled and chopped, or 800 g good-quality canned
  • 200 g day-old white bread, crusts removed, cut into chunks
  • 2 cups chicken or vegetable stock (or water)
  • Salt and pepper
  • Fresh basil

Method

Sauté onion and garlic in olive oil until soft and fragrant. Add tomatoes and cook until reduced and thickened, like a salsa.

IMG_2779

Add stock, bread, seasoning and basil. Simmer on low for 10 minutes, stirring to break down the bread.

Serve the pappa warm or at room temperature topped with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and fresh basil leaves.

761502A5-DDD2-4270-A0AA-1E704B05D982

CUCINA POVERA; REDISCOVERING SOUP

RED PEPPER (Capsicum) SOUP

MACCU (a thick, broad bean soup, made at the end of winter to celebrate spring)

 

 

 

SICILIAN SUMMER SOUP – made with tendrils of a Sicilian squash

This information provides instructions for making a summer Sicilian soup using a Sicilian squash, the tendrils and leaves of the vine.

The tendrils of the Sicilian squash are called tenerumi and this soup is particularly easy to make if you have a Sicilian friend who grows this vegetable in her garden. I have bought some of this squash at a farmers’ market but it is only available for a short time in the season.

The squash is a long, light green trumpet-shaped squash. It is called a zucca lunga (long squash) or zucca trombetta (trumpet squash) or zucca serpente (serpent squash). she had no squash available  but she knew I had some zucchini to replace the squash, and the soup tasted delicious.

2C1FEE58-4800-42F1-A6FF-F90AC9346CCD
simple ingredient_ tendrils with leaves, zucchini, basil leaves, garlic and tomatoes.

It is a summer dish, and red tomatoes, a little garlic (optional) and basil are also added ingredients. Broken spaghetti are used to thicken the soup…when in Sicily you are unlikely to eat soup without pasta.

PROCESS

Strip and use the soft tendrils and soft leaves off the long, hard curly stems.

D4C1F57A-4CAF-4904-9F8E-2278D0D81B0E
the tendrils and leaves stopped from the hard stalk.

Place the leaves and tendrils ( and some squash or sliced zucchini)  in some boiling water with a little salt.

91C30E4E-7733-4DF9-B0E8-AB74AEED337E

When they are nearly cooked add some broken spaghetti.

18B0054D-BA2B-4537-A912-4119FEF36646

These vegetables are cooked separately.

The tomatoes are left cut in half. Soften the tomatoes in a little extra virgin olive oil with some garlic and basil. It is just a tomato salsa!

DE131FED-4589-41D9-AA8B-720B4E64AD52
The half tomatoes- cut made into a summer salsa.

Add the tomato mixture on top of the pasta. Drizzle on some good extra virgin olive oil, more basil leaves and some chilli flakes if this is your want.

You will find more photos (including the zucca lunga) and information about this recipe and ingredients on previous posts:

F1793940-8C61-4485-8C28-B5B6994EC9DC
The Sicilian summer soup called Minestra di Tenerumi.

ZUCCA LUNGA SICILIANA – long, green variety of squash

MINESTRA ESTIVA CON ZUCCA LUNGA SICILIANA, Sicilian Summer soup made with the long, green variety of squash

TENERUMI (and I did not have to go to SICILY to buy it). The Melbourne Showgrounds Farmers Market

KOHLRABI and TENERUMI, shared between cultures of Sicily and Vietnam

MINESTRA DI TENERUMI (Summer soup made with the tendrils of a Sicilian squash)

 

HAPUKA(fish)WITH SICILIAN FLAVOURS

I used Hapuka cutlets to cook with Sicilian Flavours, but any fish can be cooked in the same way.

03E46B4A-BB9F-4762-B249-D82FCC610BAC
Hapuka fish cutlets.

The Sicilian flavours are simple – grated lemon peel, lemon juice, anchovies, fresh mint and parsley.

DE809BD1-7CA5-4FB0-A474-3B922468F9D2.jpeg
Flavours – Anchovies, parsley and lemon.Roasted peppers as a side plate.

Procedure

Cut anchovies into small pieces.

Grate some lemon peel and squeeze some lemon juice.

Chop parsley and mint. Use greater amount of parsley. You will need a double small pile of the herbs: one for pan-frying and the other mixed with the lemon peel for decoration and flavour.

Fry one side of the fish, then flip it and top with chopped parsley and mint and anchovies. Cook the other side until desired, as it’ll be flipped again briefly.

6F6097A9-ACD7-4C5D-8451-55B8A2B52CAB.jpeg
Slices of pan fried fish with Sicilian flavours. Notice the vibrant fresh colour of the herbs.

The anchovies should have softened. Turn the fish over and season the other side with salt and lemon juice. Evaporate the lemon juice and the fish is ready.

Scatter with more chopped parsley and mint mixed with the grated lemon peel for colour and flavour.

So Simple and so Tasty!

FISH STUDDED WITH FLAVOURS

COOKING CLASS, SMALL FISHY BITES, MERCATO

PASTA WITH BREADCRUMBS, anchovies and fennel (Pasta cca muddica)

pasta with baby fennel

This very simple but very impressive and tasty recipe for Pasta with breadcrumbs,  anchovies and fennel is eaten in Calabria and in Sicily

GUS AND CARMEL AT THE QVM

I live in an apartment in Melbourne and have a balcony where I  can only grow herbs. Fortunately I am very close to the Queen Victoria Market – it is my stamping ground. I am able to buy bulb fennel and bunches of leafy fennel (fronds attached) at one of my favourite stalls: B Shed, Stall 61- 63) in the Queen Victoria Market.

The stall is owned by Gus and Carmel and they grow some of their produce. Gus is Calabrese. He knows that I cook Sicilian food and I like to use this type of fennel for my Sicilian Pasta con le sarde that includes wild fennel as one of the ingredients. It is frequently used in Sicilian food to add a particular aniseed taste to many dishes.

We are not able to buy bunches of wild fennel (finucchiu sarvaggiu in Sicilian) in Australia and not everybody can go out and forage for it – you will recognise the plants by the strong aniseed smell and taste, strong green colour and fine fern like fronds. I collect the soft, young shoots of this plant, recognised by their  lighter colour. This fennel is unlike the Florentine fennel and has no bulb. Because of its strong smell and taste, animals and insects tend not to eat it, so it can be prolific. I always ensure that the plant looks healthy before I collect it, after all it is a weed and it could have been sprayed. If I were to grow wild fennel in my garden I would collect the seeds (yellow flower heads) which when dry develop into seeds and plant them.

baby fennel

But for those of you who cannot get wild fennel there is some salvation. At the end of the fennel season the fennel plant produces some flat bulbs, which never mature.

GUS’S Recipe for PASTA WITH BREADCRUMBS, ANCHOVIES AND FENNEL

Gus has given me his recipe for one of his favourite pasta recipes. It is cooked with anchovies, fennel fronds and topped with fried breadcrumbs. He tells me it is Calabrese (from Calabria).

I say that it is also Sicilian and in Sicilian it is called ‘Pasta cca muddica’.

But Gus forgets that he has already given me this recipe, he gives it to me every year when I buy the immature bunches of fennel from him.

For recipe see:Pasta con Finocchio

EXCELLENT ADDITIONS TO PASTA CON FINOCCHIO

What I do not tell Gus is that in some parts of Sicily they add grated lemon peel and in the Aeolian islands they add capers and in Siracusa green olives. There are also versions where it is made without the fennel. Simple, but all good.
Very Good.

CASSATA DECONSTRUCTED – a postmodernist take on Sicilian Cassata

Deconstructed Cassata.

Cassata Deconstructed is my postmodernist take on the Iconic Siciliandessert – Cassata.

But can there be such a thing? Probably not in Sicily.

While I strive for precision and authenticity, I occasionally employ a shortcut  and this one has proven effective. This dessert, that I have since refined, I have made multiple times.

ONE CANNOT ALWAYS BE AUTHENTIC

I always want to be Authentic.

When my children were young they used to refer to me as the Food Police; everything had to be just right and particularly when we went to a restaurant I often seemed to find fault.  .This is not the case in my later years!

But the often seen as the less important side of authenticity is that making things that are not particularly “authentic” can actually be a lot of fun. 

CASSATA DECONSTRUCTED 

As you will see I have remained faithful to Traditional Sicilian Ingredients and Ingredients that I have used when making Cassata.

I used sponge fingers, dipped in Cointreau. These formed the casing of the sweet – the  bottom and top layers.

In between I used a sweet ricotta filling, in fact it a similar ricotta filling that I use when making a cassata.

I then covered the top layer of sponge fingers with a whipped cream with a little ricotta, topped it with summer strawberries and leaves made from marzipan.

The result is very much like a summer cassata and very suitable for the Christmas season, or Easter, or anytime.

REFLECTION ON MY PROCESS

The flavours and process of dipping sponge fingers or sponge cake in liqueur and layering with a cream filling are very much Italian. After all, I have been making cassata, zuppa inglese and tiramisu for years.

I have maintained the Italian colours. The only problem is what do I call this dessert?

The marzipan can be made days beforehand, wrapped in cling wrap and left in the fridge. The leaves can also be made beforehand and placed in a sealed container with baking paper in between each leaf.

This dessert fed 6-8 people – the strawberries were huge and because of their large size they give a wrong sense of scale.

CASSATA DECONSTRUCTED RECIPE

INGREDIENTS
500 g fresh ricotta,
100 g caster sugar,
1 cup Cointreau or to taste
50g of chopped blanched almonds
vanilla concentrate
some orange and citron peel previously soaked in Cointreau for at least 1 hour
small pieces of dark chocolate
cream to cover the dessert, add as much as you like

PROCESSES
Arrange sponge biscuits in a square container lined with cling wrap. Sprinkle them with orange flavoured liqueur.
Beat 450g ricotta with a dash of cream, sugar and vanilla. The mixture should be creamy but stiff.
Fold in nuts, chocolate, and drained peel. Reserve the Cointreau.
Place this on the layer of sponge fingers and finish off with a top layer which you have sprinkled with more Cointreau – I used what I drained off the peel.
Leave it for at least 5 hours.
Close to serving, (I did this an hour before my guests arrived) decorate it with the whipped cream (mixed with a little vanilla, 50g of whipped ricotta and a little caster sugar to taste).
Place strawberries on top and decorate with leaves.

Marzipan leaves:
100g blanched almond meal
100g g icing sugar
1 egg white
¼ teaspoon vanilla extract
1 drop green food dye

Mix contents together and use your fingers to knead the mixture; add more sugar of meal if the mixture is too wet.
Place the marzipan in between two sheets of baking paper and roll it out thinly. Cut it into shapes of leaves.

One of  the cassate (plural of cassata) I have made covered with green marzipan. Too much food colouring.

SICILIAN CASSATA and some background (perfect for an Australian Christmas)

PASTA DI MANDORLA (How to make Marzipan recipe)

MARZAPANE also called Pasta Reale (Marzipan)

FENNEL AND ORANGE SALAD (Insalata di Finocchio e Arancia Sanguina)

Fennel and Orange Salad (Insalata di Finocchio e Arancia Sanguina) is a classic Sicilian dish that celebrates the bright, seasonal flavours of blood oranges and crisp fennel.  the salad is light, refreshing, and rooted in local tradition and is proof that simple ingredients, handled with care, create dishes that continue as favourites.

Blood oranges are having their moment in the spotlight. Not long ago, I could only find them at a couple of stalls at Melbourne’s Queen Victoria Market, but now they’re beautifully widespread and much easier to come by. And I’m delighted—because paired with fresh fennel, they make one of the simplest and most iconic Sicilian salads.

Fennel bulbs, too, have become far more familiar in Australian kitchens, yet in Sicily this vegetable and citrus combination has been around for generations. The crisp bite of fennel and the sweet, jewel-toned orange slices are a refreshing contrast—light, seasonal, and satisfying.

I like it as a starter especially when it is presented with something like marinaded  sardines or anchovies and good bread.

Fennel and Orange Salad (Insalata di Finocchio e Arancia Sanguina) served as a traditional Sicilian contorno

 I never hesitate to serve a salad alongside a main course, hot or cold, but I do like each guest to have a small plate of their own for this contorno. It feels thoughtful, elegant, and just the way it would be served in Sicily.

Fennel and Orange Salad (Insalata di Finocchio e Arancia Sanguina)
INGREDIENTS
  • 2 medium fennel bulbs (400–500 g), with feathery fronds reserved
  • 2–3 blood oranges
  • ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
  • ½ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

PROCESSES

  1. Trim the fennel by removing any damaged outside layers. Cut off the base and top, reserving any soft green fronds for garnish. Slice each bulb in half lengthwise, then continue slicing into thin, even pieces.

  2. With a sharp knife, cut the peel and white pith away from the oranges, then slice them crosswise into thin, neat rounds.

  3. Combine the sliced fennel and oranges in a serving bowl.

  4. In a separate container, whisk together olive oil, salt, and pepper. Pour over the salad and toss gently to distribute. Finish with parsley and fennel fronds.

Fennel, ready for slicing
A Note on Fennel: Male and Female

Although most fennel bulbs look similar, in Sicily they are traditionally identified by shape. Rounded bulbs are considered maschi (male), while slightly flatter bulbs are femmine (female). Each has its own character in texture and flavor, and both are delicious in this salad.

A simple dish, yes—but also one steeped in Sicilian tradition, seasonal eating, and the joy of beautiful ingredients prepared well.

FENNEL; male and female shapes

SARDINE, CRUDE E CONDITE (Sardines; raw and marinaded)

CHEAT FOOD FOR LAUNCH OF SICILIAN SEAFOOD COOKING AT COASIT AND READINGS: Marinaded white anchovies AND Olive Schacciate made with commercially prepared olives