Tag: Formaggio all’Argentiera

SOUTHERN ITALY: Caciocavallo and ’Nduja

I’ve long been familiar with caciocavallo cheese and ’nduja, but I always enjoy discovering new things about food and produce.

Being Italian I enjoy the endless journey through traditions, family stories, unique regions and small producers who put their heart into every ingredient. Researching Italian food is discovering a world inside every dish.

Recently, I visited a small restaurant that focuses on Southern Italian cuisine and had two dishes that sparked my curiosity.

The first was a caciocavallo that came from Puglia and not Sicily, as I was expecting. (Below is  a photo of the classic shape of caciocavallo)

The second was ’nduja, Calabria’s famously spicy, spreadable salume (small good). It was served warm in a small terracotta warmer, ready for dipping with some house-made warm focaccia. I’d never seen it served this way. At home, I tend to slice it like salame and serve it with some quality bread, in a much more rustic manner.

I find it fascinating how produce reflects the unique identity of each region. It’s all thanks to the geography, animal husbandry, and traditional techniques that shape what we grow and eat. A cheese is the flavour of the land, the animals that graze there, and the those that made it. The caciocavallo, from Southern Italy, has maintained its authenticity despite being mass-produced. Its Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) classification safeguards its unique characteristics.

The ‘nduja, which was traditionally made by hand after a pig was slaughtered, is now mass-produced, but traditional recipes remain largely unchanged.

Naturally, I had questions to ask at the restaurant. Fortunately, a passionate, food-loving waiter from Messina was happy to share his knowledge. What I love most about Italians is how even the simplest ingredients and recipes carry the weight of local pride. Thanks to his enthusiasm, I left with a deeper appreciation for these two iconic Southern Italian specialties and a strong urge to verify everything he told me.

Sometimes all it takes is a chatty, informative waiter to turn a good meal into an even better culinary experience. The list of Italian wines was also very good and again this waiter was happy to share his knowledge.

Caciocavallo

Caciocavallo is produced across several Southern Italian regions: Sicily, Basilicata, Calabria, Campania, Molise, and Puglia. However, I’ve always associated this cheese with Sicily, especially as it is made in Ragusa.

My paternal family roots are in Ragusa (photo above), so over the years I have visited Sicily many times. I developed a strong sense of pride around Caciocavallo Ragusano . This is made from the milk of Modica cows (Modica is a city close to Ragusa) that graze the wild pastures of the Iblei plateau. The cheese is rich and earthy, due to the wild herbs in the cows’ diet. My relatives led me to believe that this was the best caciocavallo, with all others being somewhat inferior. And I believed them.

I have eaten cheese produced by families in the region of Ragusa and, like my relatives, I appreciate caciocavallo very much. The caciocavallo cheeses The cheeses are the classic gourd or teardrop shape and are hung in pairs over a wooden beam (“cacio a cavallo” means “cheese on horseback”). It is appreciated as an aged cheese, but also when relatively fresh.

At the restaurant, I was offered Caciocavallo Podolico from Puglia. This local cheese is made from the milk of Podolica cows, a breed raised in southern Italy. Unlike cheese from Ragusa, Caciocavallo Podolico is aged for up to 36 months in natural caves. The cows feed on wild, aromatic herbs in a different terroir, giving the cheese a bold, intense flavour.

The restaurant served it pan-fried, warm, with a drizzle of honey and chilli flakes. The honey reminded me of how I’ve eaten pecorino in Liguria, not warmed.

Eating the caciocavallo from Puglia broadened my horizons beyond the exclusive patriotism for Ragusa-produced caciocavallo.

’Nduja

 ’Nduja is a soft, fermented, pork Calabrian salume made with about 30% chili peppers. Cured in natural casings, it remains spreadable because of the high fat content and fermentation.

Over the years, I have incorporated ‘nduja into various dishes and sauces, and have also enjoyed it sliced and served with bread, but I had never encountered it served warm. At the restaurant, it was presented in a unique warmer equipped with a small flame, ensuring a molten state and an opportunity to be scooped up with bread. This presentation is known as ‘scalda ‘nduja‘.

Here are a couple of ideas for enjoying these ingredients at home:

Pan-fried Caciocavallo: pan fry  in very little oil thick slices until golden, then drizzle with some quality honey and a sprinkle of chilli flakes. Look for DOP or regional varieties at specialty Italian shops.

Warm ’Nduja: Gently heat a slice in a ramekin in the microwave or small pan and serve with warm bread for dipping.. The restaurant served it with focaccia.

I’ve written other posts, especially about ‘nduja that may stimulate more adventures in the kitchen:

Squid with ‘nduja

‘NDUJA

NDUJA, a spreadable and spicy pork salame from Calabria

NDUJA, was considered peasant food in Calabria

PASTA with ‘NDUJA, CIME DI RAPA and PORK SAUSAGES

NDUJA with SQUID, very simple

NDUJA and CALAMARI as a pasta sauce

NDUJA, SQUID, VONGOLE AND PAN GRATTATO with Spaghetti

CACIOCAVALLO and similar cheese

SICILIAN CHEESE MAKING. A VISIT TO A MASSARO (farmer-cheese maker) IN RAGUSA. Formaggio argentiera

There are many recipes that include Caciocavallo as an ingredient  –  use the search button on my blog.

Below, photo of Ragusa.

Formaggio all’Argentiera (pan fried, fresh cheese, Sicilian)

I had forgotten how much I particularly like Formaggio Fresco, pan fried with a sliver or two of garlic in a smidgen of extra virgin olive oil, sprinkled with a little dry oregano and de-glazed with a little red vinegar and a pinch of sugar (optional). This is how Sicilians like it.

Formaggio Fresco = Cheese Fresh….Fresh Cheese.

This  Sicilian recipe is called Formaggio all’Argentiera.

Why All’ Argentiera?

An argentiere in Italian is a silversmith.

All’argentiera means “in the style of…as an argentiere would cook it”.

Why this name?

An argentiere can afford the price of meat, a poor person cannot, however, the poor can afford to buy and cook cheese and pretend that he is eating meat. The lovely smells dissipating from the windows of the poor will give passers-by the impression  that just like a silversmith he can afford to eat meat. It is all to do with the making a bella figura syndrome.

The recipe is quick and easy, the difficulty could be finding what is called Formaggio Fresco. What is ‘fresh cheese?’

Some producers call Formaggio Fresco,  Fresh Pecorino,  but they are  both young cheese (aged typically 15- 45 days depending on the manufacturer). It is a white, semi soft, smooth and milky cheese,  good for slicing and for partially melting.

Pecorino is made from the milk of a pecora, (sheep), however, most Pecorino Fresco or Formaggio Fresco, especially in Australia  is made from cows’ pasteurized milk, salt and culture (usually rennet).

Aged Pecorino, whether Romano (Roman), Sardo (Sardinian), Toscano, or Siciliano is the firm, salty and sharp cheese we are familiar with and used for grating – you can eat it too.  In Italy they are DOP cheeses and made in the place of origin.

Stores that have Italian Produce are likely to have Formaggio Fresco  but I have also seen some in a few good supermarkets.

In Melbourne I can buy Formaggio Fresco made by these manufacturers: That’s Amore cheese, they call it cacciotta  and Pantalica make Bacio and Pecorino Fresco.

In Adelaide the manufacturers are: La Casa Del Formaggio and La Vera. I have seen La Vera sold in other Australian cities as well.

 

Formaggio all’Argentiera

A little extra virgin olive oil to fry the cheese.

Also: 1 large clove of garlic (cut into slivers), pinches of dried oregano,  1-2 tablespoons of red wine vinegar and a pinch of sugar.

I prefer to use a non-stick fry pan.

Heat the oil; use medium heat.

Add the garlic, the slices of cheese and lower the heat. Sprinkle the cheese with some of the dry oregano.

Cook that side of cheese until golden in colour, turn the cheese over and repeat with the dry oregano….cook for as long again.

Add the vinegar and sugar ( I sometime do) and deglaze the pan.

See also:

SICILIAN CHEESE MAKING. A VISIT TO A MASSARO (farmer-cheese maker) IN RAGUSA. Formaggio all’argentiera

Sicilian Cheese and more cheese

SICILIAN CHEESE MAKING. A VISIT TO A MASSARO (farmer-cheese maker) IN RAGUSA. Formaggio all’argentiera

My relatives in Ragusa, Sicily, often visit their favourite massaro—a farmer who raises cows and makes cheese. They buy fresh farm produce: ricotta, provola, Ragusano, and caciocavallo.

Sicilians have a deep appreciation for locally made cheeses, and in Ragusa, unlike many other parts of Sicily, there are more cows, rather than sheep.

Ricotta, a staple in Sicilian kitchens, is prized for its freshness and versatility. It’s enjoyed on its own or used in various savoury and sweet dishes. Sheep’s milk ricotta is especially sweet and preferred for pastries. Where would the cannoli and cassata be without it!

Zia Niluzza and the Massaro

My aunt, Zia Niluzza, lives in Ragusa and regularly has her ricotta, provola, and caciocavallo delivered by a local farmer she called a massaro. She also enjoys visiting him, especially when she has guests. She makes it a must when I’m visiting from abroad.

For many years, cheese and ricotta were delivered by a man named Ciccio,  who operated a small-scale dairy on his masseria (farm) just outside Marina di Ragusa. My aunt always referred to him as a massaro and he had only three cows. Those with more cows might be called a vaccaro (a farmer who had a herd), but to be considered a casaro (professional cheesemaker), cheese would need to be produced on a much larger scale.

Ciccio used to make Ragusano cheese, one of Sicily’s oldest and most distinctive cheeses. If you’ve watched Inspector Montalbano, you’ve likely seen the landscapes around Ragusa where this cheese is traditionally made. Ragusano is similar to provola in that it uses a pasta filata (stretched curd) technique, but it’s shaped in large rectangular blocks. It weighs up to 16 kilograms, and is aged for  many months. It’s rubbed with oil and vinegar during aging, giving it its characteristic golden-yellow rind. The cheese has Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status, which limits its name and method of production to this specific region.

Sadly, Ciccio ceased producing Ragusano when it gained PDO status. Upgrading his operation to meet PDO regulations proved too expensive, a common fate for many massari.

IMG_0269

My First Visit – 1977

I first visited Ciccio’s masseria in 1977.  I wanted to go and was fascinated by my aunt’s description of the process of making cheeses on such a small home farm..

We arrived unannounced and found the family in a two-room barn with packed earth floors and thick stone walls that naturally regulated the temperature. It was smoky inside. Ciccio had just made what would become Ragusano and at that point, there were still curds submerged in a tub of whey.

In another room, we saw pear-shaped provole, large yellow Ragusano cheeses resting on rafters, and pairs of caciocavallo hanging over wooden beams like saddlebags (“cacio a cavallo” literally means “cheese on horseback”).

Some cheeses were draining in reed baskets; others were maturing on racks. The smell was potent: smoke, sour milk, and the pungent vinegar and oil that is rubbed onto the Ragusano rind to make it the dark golden coloured cheese that it becomes.

This was a family event. Ciccio’s teenage son was stirring a large cauldron over a wood fire to make ricotta from the whey left over from caciocavallo. We watched in silence as the liquid separated into curds. His wife quietly brought us terracotta bowls with torn bread at the bottom. Each of us received a ladle of hot curds and whey – ricotta in its freshest form.

I asked for less whey. and bread.

The scene felt ceremonial: the smoke, the silence, the secret language (Sicilian rather than Italian was spoken almost throughout), the transformation of liquid into food, and the communal sharing. I made this comment aloud, but it didn’t go over well. Most Sicilians, including my aunt are very religious.

This ricotta was made with cow’s milk.They were delighted to see me taste the hot ricotta for the first time. I hadn’t known that freshly made ricotta was such a treat and that it was still produced in such humble, traditional ways.

The Sicilians in Ragusa seem very fond of eating warm ricotta. I liked the solid part but did not enjoy the bread in the whey. I did not dare complain.

We returned to Ragusa with a load: Ragusano, fresh provola, ricotta salata (salted, dried ricotta), and fresh ricotta draining in a reed basket.

Cheese Quick Guide

Cheese Milk Texture Shape Aging Flavor Notes
Provola Cow (sometimes mixed) Semi-soft to firm Pear/teardrop Short to medium Buttery, mild to tangy
Caciocavallo Cow (or sheep/goat) Semi-hard to hard Gourd/teardrop Months to 1+ year Nutty, spicy when aged
Ragusano Raw cow (Modicana) Hard Rectangular block 3+ months Aromatic, sharp, savory

Not every one likes eating warm ricotta

Shortly after, my brother and sister-in-law visited Sicily. Excited by my experience, Zia Niluzza took them to Ciccio’s farm. But it was a hot day, and my sister-in-law—who isn’t fond of milk—couldn’t stomach the strong smells and warm curds. Zia was embarrassed by her refusal, and apparently the cheesemakers were a little surprised.

But I sympathize. The combination of smoke, sour milk, fermenting cheese, and heat can be overwhelming. Zia had planned the visit without thinking that not everyone finds warm curds in whey appealing.

The Tradition Lives On

Ciccio no longer makes cheese; he sold the farm due to changing economic and environmental conditions. Zia Niluzza now visits a different massaro. When I last visited, she was planning an outing with women from her church to enjoy fresh ricotta and although they are locals, it remains a popular local activity now open to both locals and tourists. I declined. I didn’t want to dilute my memory of that first visit.

Many of these masserie (farms) have converted rooms into spaces large enough to be eateries. My aunt has often booked these places for family occasions. When I go to Ragusa, she rounds up all the relatives so that we can be together and have feasts— everything that is presented is traditional local food, all made with the cheese they produce.

From My Kitchen: Sicilian Cheese Dishes

 Formaggio all’Argentiera (Fried Cheese with Garlic, Vinegar, and Oregano)

Formaggio all’Argentiera is also a favourite in my kitchen, especially as an antipasto. It is very easy to prepare, and I have never had complaints from guests.

Argento is the word for silver, and silversmiths could eat cheese cooked in this manner and  the method of cooking it is the same as the method that could be used to cook meat. The poor could not afford to eat meat (the silversmiths could), but the poor could cook cheese and give the impression of being well off (to any one who was walking past their house while they were cooking the cheese).

It is a rustic, traditional dish and can be made with fresh cheese – formaggio fresco, provola or caciocavallo.

Ingredients

For 2-4 slices of cheese, some extra virgin olive oil,  garlic clove, sliced,  dried oregano, freshly ground black pepper, a splash of white or red wine vinegar, pinch of sugar.

Instructions:

Heat olive oil in a non-stick pan over medium heat.

Add garlic and cheese slices. Sprinkle with oregano and pepper.

Cook for 1 minute or until golden, then flip. Sprinkle the other side.

Remove cheese and place on a serving dish.

Deglaze the pan with vinegar and sugar, reducing slightly.

Pour over the cheese and serve hot.

Tip: If your cheese doesn’t melt easily, you can leave it in the pan while deglazing. Not all cheese has the same melting point.

RICOTTA FRISCA ‘NFURNATA – RICOTTA FRESCA INFORNATA (Baked, fresh ricotta)