Tag: Sicilian desserts

Cassata is most closely associated with Easter, when fresh sheep’s milk ricotta is abundant in the Sicilian spring, but the cake is now enjoyed throughout the year for festive occasions and is perfect for an Australian Christmas.

I have  been making cassata for a very long time and this post was first written on 15 December 2009 and I  have updated over time.

 ABOUT CASSATA

Many believe that a cassata is an ice cream cake made out of assembled layers of ice cream. No Sicilians believe it, it is the Neapolitans who may be confused.

There are three types of Cassate (plural):

• The Neapolitan made of three layers of flavoured ice cream,
• The baked ricotta cassata often made at home by Sicilians,
• And the famous iconic, traditional Sicilian Cassata.

Cassata Neapolitan Ice-Cream Version

Some people differentiate between the two cassate by referring to the one made with ice cream as a Neopolitan cassata.

 In the early 19th century, the ice cream makers of Naples were famous for making moulded, opulent, ice cream layered cakes and these were called cassate (plural of cassata).

Sicilian Cassata: History, Traditions and Ricotta Cake

The Sicilian cassata, however, has much older roots than the ice cream cakes popular with the Neapolitans.

This Cassata is a round, moulded cake shaped in a bowl lined with layers of sponge cake. The principal ingredient is sheep’s milk ricotta, which is sweeter and more delicate than ricotta made with cow’s milk.

The Ingredients That Define Cassata Siciliana

What distinguishes the traditional cassata of Sicily is its filling of sweetened sheep’s milk ricotta, mixed with:

• small pieces of dark chocolate
• candied/ glac`e citrus peel
• sponge cake (pan di Spagna)

Within Sicily there are some variations which vary by location and family tradition, for example some recipes include an additional layer of sponge cake in the centre as well as the casing. Some  pastry chefs also include zuccata (candied pumpkin).

The Ancient Origins of Cassata

Cassata is considered one of the great traditional desserts of Sicily and reflects the island’s long history of Arab, Spanish, French and local culinary influences.

Some say that the word cassata may have come from the Roman name for cheese, caseus (the Sicilian word for cheese is casu` or caseata).

The Arabs

Many believe that its origins are Arabic – the Arabs occupied Sicily for several hundred years – the invasion began in 827 AD and they conquered Sicily in 902 AD. They introduced the cultivation of sugar, very sweet desserts and the use of nuts and dried fruit in pastries. It is also likely that the name cassata may have come from Arab word qas’ah, a deep terra-cotta bowl; that may even have been used to shape the cake.

The Spaniards

The sponge cake is called pan di spagna in Italian (bread from Spain) and may have been a Spanish addition – the Spanish ruled Sicily intermittently for may years (Angevins, Aragonese, Viceroys and Bourbons from 1282 until the end of the reign of Ferdinand the second in 1859).

The French and the nuns in convents

The French and the locals also contributed to the evolution of Cassata. The pastry traditions of Sicilian convents later intersected with the work of the monsù, the French-trained chefs employed in aristocratic households from the eighteenth century onwards. While the nuns preserved and developed many almond- and ricotta-based sweets within convent kitchens, the monsù refined and elaborated these traditions, introducing greater technical sophistication and decorative flourish that helped shape the elaborate cassata and marzipan desserts recognised today.

The Role of the Pasticcere (pastry maker) and the Pasticceria (pastry shop)

Baked versions of Sicilian casssate are often made at home, but usually Sicilians (this includes my relatives), order their cassata from a pasticceria – it is left to the experts to make, mainly because cassate are usually elaborately decorated by pasticceri.

Some of the cassate in pasticcerie are often very baroque and white and green striped fondant is used. They are then decorated with ribbons of zuccata (candied pumpkin) and are often sprinkled with silver sugar balls.

Another Traditional Sicilian Details is sieving the ricotta before mixing it with the sugar. A small but important step in traditional cassata preparation is sieving the ricotta before mixing it with the sugar.

This extra step may seem minor, but it greatly improves the texture of the cassata. The filling becomes creamy and delicate rather than grainy, which is why Sicilian pastry chefs rarely skip it.

In many Sicilian kitchens the fresh sheep’s milk ricotta is first left to drain for several hours, sometimes overnight, so that excess whey is removed. It is then pressed through a fine sieve (or a food mill). This produces a filling that is exceptionally smooth and light.

Only after the ricotta has been sieved is the sugar added, followed by the chocolate, candied fruit and flavourings.

The cassata is left to set and once it is turned out of the mould it is spread with apricot jam. It can then be covered with a sugar fondant (this is often coloured pale green because at one time cassata was covered with marzipan made with pistachio meal).

My preferred option is to cover it with marzipan and candied fruits and I have no trouble making  a simple version of  marzipan.

The marzipan can be made well ahead of time.

I have also used marzipan fruit as decoration, this being what my friend Libby did when she followed my recipe of cassata and the post with a recipe to make Marzipan fruit.

Introduction to my making of Cassata

I first made cassata many years ago using  the recipe from Ada Boni’s Italian Regional Cooking book. This highly regarded and out-of-print publication has evolved over time to consistently produce a delicious result, although its presentation does not match the elaborate decorative images of cassate in this post.

Cassata Siciliana — Traditional Recipe

Cassata is a celebratory Sicilian dessert, rich in flavour, symbolism and history. While it requires time and care, it can be prepared in stages — and the result is a cake that truly reflects the essence of Sicilian tradition.

It is best prepared over two days. Assemble the cake one day in advance and allow it to rest overnight so it sets properly. The sponge also benefits from being made ahead, making this an ideal dessert to prepare in stages.

To Assemble

• Approximately 450 g sponge cake (Pan di Spagna). It can be store-bought or homemade. The weight is equivalent to store-bought sponge cakes.
• Ricotta filling
• Marzipan (to cover)
• Glacé fruits (for decoration)
• ½ cup (or more) apricot jam (to bind sponge layers)
• ½–¾ cup liqueur (or more, to taste)

Notes on Ingredients

Ricotta

Use firm, well-drained ricotta, preferably sheep’s milk, which is naturally sweeter and richer.

Ricotta is often sold in large rounds and cut to order — this is ideal.

Avoid tub ricotta, which is usually too wet and lacks flavour. If this is your only option, drain it overnight.

For a richer filling, you may add a little thick cream when blending.

Candied Fruit

Candied fruit (glacé fruit) is fruit preserved in a sugar syrup, which keeps it moist and intensifies its flavour.

Where possible, use high-quality candied citrus peel or whole candied orange slices rather than standard mixed peel.

Candied Cedro (Cedro Candito)

Also known as glacé citron peel, cedro is a fundamental ingredient in Sicilian patisserie. Grown in Sicily and Calabria, this large citrus fruit is easily recognised by its thick, aromatic rind, which ranges from green to yellow as it ripens.

Unlike lemons, cedro is prized not for its juice but for its peel — fragrant, sweet and tender. The rind is traditionally candied or transformed into a smooth, sweet paste, both of which are essential components in many classic Sicilian desserts.

Liqueur

Use to taste. Suitable options include:

• Orange liqueurs: Cointreau, Grand Marnier
• Mandarin liqueur: Mandarine Napoléon
• Others: Sweet Marsala, Amaretto, Strega, Maraschino

Quantities/Weight

* Like many Italian recipes, particularly older ones, quantities are not as critical. Most recipes rely on sensory perception, particularly sight, touch and taste.

Adjust the recipe to your preferences and add greater quantities of ingredients as desired.

Recipes and Ingredients for the different components

Sponge Cake (Pan di Spagna)

Prepare 1–3 days in advance to facilitate easier handling.

Ingredients

• 5 eggs
• 120 g sugar
• 100 g sifted flour
• Pinch of salt
• Lemon zest and/or vanilla
• Butter for greasing

Method

1. Beat egg yolks with sugar until pale and creamy.
2. In a separate bowl, beat egg whites with a pinch of salt until firm.
3. Gently fold egg whites into the yolk mixture.
4. Fold in the sifted flour, then add flavourings.
5. Pour into a buttered tin and bake at moderate heat for about 40 minutes, until lightly golden.

Cool completely. Wrap the sponge in protective covering or store it in a tin to maintain its freshness. until ready to use.

Ricotta Filling

• 700 g – 800 g fresh ricotta (preferably sheep’s milk)
• 120 g caster sugar
• 60–100 g dark chocolate, finely chopped
• 100 g pistachios, chopped
• 60–100 g candied citrus peel (orange, lemon, cedro if available)
• ¼ tsp vanilla (or vanilla bean paste)
• ¼ tsp cinnamon

Method

1. Blend ricotta and sugar until smooth. (Alternatively, dissolve the sugar in a little water to form a syrup. Allow to cool before adding.)
2. Stir in: vanilla, cinnamon, a dash of liqueur (optional)
3. Fold in: chocolate, pistachios, candied citrus
4. Mix gently until evenly combined.

Store in the fridge until ready to use.

MARZIPAN COVERING

Ingredients

• 500 g finely ground blanched almonds
• 300 g icing sugar
• 1 egg white
• Vanilla bean paste or natural essence (to taste)
• Pinch of salt
• A few drops green food colouring

Method

1. Whisk the egg white with salt until frothy.
2. Add vanilla.
3. Gradually mix in ground almonds and icing sugar, kneading into a smooth, pliable dough.
4. Adjust texture:
   • Add more almond meal or sugar if too soft
   • Add a little water if too firm

Optional: Divide into two portions and colour one green. Traditionally, cassata features pale green marzipan, sometimes linked to pistachio-based paste.

Wrap and refrigerate until needed (keeps well).

When ready to roll the marzipan out  do it between sheets of baking paper for ease.

Preparing the Mould and AsseMbling the Cassata

1. Line a 25–30 cm round mould with foil or plastic wrap.
2. Slice sponge into 4 even layers.
3. Line the base with sponge and lightly brush with apricot jam (this forms a protective layer).
4. Lightly sprinkle with liqueur.
5. Use additional slices to line the sides of the mould, securing with jam if needed.
6. Lightly moisten with liqueur.

Assembling the Ricotta

1. Fill the mould with the ricotta mixture and smooth the surface.
2. Cover with the final sponge layer.
3. Lightly moisten with liqueur.
4. Cover and place a light weight on top to compress.

Refrigerate overnight to set.

Covering and Decorating (Do this on the day of serving)

1. Turn the cassata out of the mould.
2. Spread a thin layer of apricot jam over the surface.
3. Roll marzipan into a thin sheet and cover the cake.
4. Decorate with glacé fruits.