It is always good to visit Sicily in May 2016 and this time I spent most of my time mainly in South-eastern Sicily. But we did wander elsewhere – distances are not that great.
As usual, the relatives in Ragusa and Augusta made sure that I was well fed, but I do enjoy getting out and about and seeing the changes and trends that are evident in their food culture. I do that here in Australia as well, or for that matter any place I revisit.
Below are some photos of Sicily and links to existing recipes from the blog … more writing and more recipes soon.
Stunning scenery
Acireale
And Granmichele,
A Nature Reserve near Donna Fugata
Antiquity
A very old church in Modica.
Inside this old church that has been a stable for many years.
Area Archeologica di Cava d’Ispica
The old stone walls, some being repaired or rebuilt.
The background for many of Sicily’s most celebrated sweets, including cassata and marzipan, were refined in convent kitchens. From Palermo’s Martorana to monasteries in Catania and Agrigento, nuns developed elaborate almond and ricotta desserts for religious feasts and aristocratic patrons, leaving a lasting legacy in Sicilian pastry traditions.
In this post I wish to provide more information about the important role of nuns in Sicilian Convents.
18th-19th century basilica in Noto – Benedictine nuns lived in a cloistered convent next to the basilica.Ricotta, as is still sold in some parts of Sicily.
Convent Traditions: Nuns and the Art of Sicilian Sweets
The refinement of many Sicilian desserts owes much to the nuns of the island’s convents, particularly from the late Middle Ages through the 18th and 19th centuries. Within the cloistered life of these religious communities, convent kitchens became places of remarkable culinary creativity. Nuns prepared elaborate sweets for major religious celebrations — especially Easter, Christmas and the feasts of patron saints — and over time developed a reputation for producing some of the most refined pastries in Sicily.
Many convents supported themselves financially through the sale of sweets made within their walls. These desserts were often sold through small windows or ruote(turning wooden wheels) that allowed goods to be passed outside without the nuns breaking their enclosure. The sweets soon became sought after by local aristocratic families and wealthy households, who ordered them for weddings, baptisms and feast days.
The ingredients used reflected Sicily’s agricultural wealth and its Arab culinary legacy: almonds, sugar, citrus peel, candied fruits and ricotta. Almond paste, known as pasta realeor marzipan, was especially important.
One of the most famous examples comes from Palermo, where the Benedictine nuns of the Convent of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio, commonly known asLa Martorana, became renowned for shaping coloured marzipan into extraordinarily realistic fruits and vegetables. These sweets, called frutta martorana, were originally prepared for the Feast of All Saints but later became one of Sicily’s most recognisable confectionery traditions.
In Catania, convent pastry traditions also flourished. The Benedictine nuns of the Monastero dei Benedettini di San Nicolò l’Arena, one of the largest Benedictine monasteries in Europe, were known for preparing elaborate sweets for religious festivals and aristocratic patrons. Catania’s rich convent pastry tradition later contributed to famous desserts such as minne di Sant’Agata, small ricotta-filled cakes created in honour of the city’s patron saint.
Further south, in Agrigento, the nuns of convents such as the Monastero di Santo Spiritobecame celebrated for their almond-based sweets. Their pastries, including delicate almond biscuits and marzipan confections, were closely linked to local almond cultivation and to the Arab-influenced techniques that had shaped Sicilian confectionery for centuries.
Convent kitchens also played an important role in refining the appearance of cassata Siciliana. Through careful layering of sponge cake, sweetened ricotta and candied fruits, and by covering the cake with marzipan and icing, the nuns helped transform what may once have been a simpler ricotta dessert into the richly decorated cassata associated with Sicilian celebrations today.
Although many convents have since closed, their influence remains deeply embedded in Sicily’s pastry traditions. Numerous classic sweets — including cassata, marzipan fruits and other almond-based confections — still carry the unmistakable legacy of convent pastry making, where devotion, patience and artistry were expressed through sugar and almonds.
The contribution of the monsù
The pastry traditions of Sicilian convents later intersected with the work of the monsù, the French-trained chefs employed in aristocratic households from the eighteenth century onwards. While the nuns preserved and developed many almond- and ricotta-based sweets within convent kitchens, the monsù refined and elaborated these traditions, introducing greater technical sophistication and decorative flourish that helped shape the elaborate cassata and marzipan desserts recognised today.
