Tag: Monsù

EASTER IN SICILY: Faith, Spring, History and Cassata

Easter in Sicily is one of the most significant celebrations of the year, where faith, spring , history and culinary traditions converge. And among them, Cassata  stands out — not just as a dessert, but as a reflection of Sicily itself: rich, layered, and shaped by many cultural histories.

Ornate cart wheeled through the streets for Processions.

Renowned for its deeply rooted Sicilian Easter customs, the island commemorates Holy Week with solemn processions, ancient rituals.

HOLY WEEK

The Easter period begins with Holy Week, from Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday, when towns and cities across Sicily are marked by devotion and tradition. Churches fill with incense, music and prayer, while the streets become the stage for solemn processions that have been passed down through generations.

In Enna, celebrations continue even in the week following Easter.

Catania, Santa Agata, lit up .

On Good Friday in particular, statues depicting scenes from the Passion of Christ are carried slowly through ancient streets.

Ancient Rituals and Easter Processions in Sicily

Many of these Easter customs are not only religious but also historical, with origins that may reach further back than Christianity itself.

The religious celebrations continue in the hill town of Enna, one of Sicily’s most renowned Easter centres.

These are photos ‘Albis’ Sunday. celebrated the following Sunday after Easter Sunday. The processions, consist of all-male groups of various ages and sodalities or confraternities from different churches or fellowships. The procession travelled from Piazza Mazzini to the nearby Lombard castle in Enna.

These processions, often accompanied by confraternities in traditional dress, create an atmosphere that is both deeply spiritual and visually striking.

Processions move slowly through the town of Enna.

A priest blesses the surrounding fields during the celebrations, invoking good harvests and favourable weather. This ritual reflects an enduring connection to the land and echoes ancient agricultural traditions.

The Blessing of the fields.

One of the most striking  is the procession of fifteen religious confraternities, each wearing distinctive robes and carrying sacred statues.

Processions move slowly through the town of Enna.

These brotherhoods date from the 15th to 17th centuries, reflecting the strong influence of Spanish rule on Sicilian religious life.

one of the Confraternities.

EASTER SUNDAY AND THE ARRIVAL OF SPRING

After the solemnity of Holy Week, Easter Sunday brings a sense of release and joy. It commemorates the Resurrection of Christ, but it also coincides with the arrival of spring — a season that has always held deep meaning in Sicily.

As winter recedes, the landscape begins to change. Trees bud, flowers appear and the days grow longer. This natural renewal reinforces the deeper symbolism of Easter as a time of rebirth, hope and continuity.

Cassata Siciliana: A SYMBOL OF EASTER AND CULTURAL HISTORY

Easter foods in Sicily are never incidental; they carry memory, history and meaning. Among them, Cassata Siciliana stands as the most iconic — not simply a dessert, but a reflection of the island itself: layered, complex and shaped by many cultures.

With its sponge, sweetened ricotta, candied fruit and marzipan, cassata tells a story of Sicily’s past. Arab influences introduced sugar, citrus and the art of candying fruit. The name cassata may derive from the Arabic word qas’ah, meaning a bowl or basin, referring to the mould used to shape the cake.

The sponge — pan di Spagna — points to Spanish connections. Later, French-trained  chefs called monsù refined the dessert in aristocratic kitchens adding elegance and structure. Convent kitchens also played an important role, especially in the development of almond-based sweets and marzipan.

Nuns in Convents also contributed greatly to the development of Sicilian Pastries, especially those made with almonds and Marzipan.

Cassata, as we know it today, is the result of all these influences coming together.

PASTICCERIE (pastry shops)

It is also a cake that reflects Sicily’s love of colour, sweetness and elaborate presentation.

For this reason, cassata is rarely made at home in Sicily. It is usually the work of skilled pasticceri, many working in historic pastry shops that have preserved these techniques over generations. Like many elaborate Italian desserts, it is often left to those who have mastered the craft.

The result is a dessert that is both theatrical and deeply rooted in Sicilian tradition. The classic Sicilian cassata is an eye-catching, baroque-style cake, usually decorated with colourful glacé fruits and candied citrus peel.

The Other Forms of Cassata

There are other versions of cassata.

  • Cassata gelata – a frozen dessert made with ricotta and sponge cake
  • Cassata al forno – a baked pastry filled with sweetened ricotta
Cassata al forno is very much like a Baked Ricotta Cheese Cake.
Cassata at Home

While the traditional cassata may appear elaborate, its essence is simple — good ricotta, balanced sweetness and careful assembly. Making it at home is less about perfect decoration and more about understanding these elements and respecting their origins.

Over the years I have made several homemade cassate, sometimes decorating them with green marzipan and sometimes with a mixture of almond and pistachio marzipan.

CASSATA EXPLAINED

The classic Sicilian cassata is made of three main parts. First, there’s a soft sponge cake, often moistened with a splash of liqueur and used to line the mould.

Sponge cake cut into sections to assemble the cassata.

Inside is a rich, sweetened ricotta filling, made with sheep’s milk (sweeter than cow’s milk) and mixed with small pieces of candied citrus and dark chocolate.

The ricotta filling – the centre of the cassata.

Finally, the entire cake is covered with a layer of green marzipan or glassa a smooth glaze of sugar icing, then decorated with intricate patterns and colourful candied fruits.

Rolling out the marzipan of two colours.
****HERE IS THE FULL RECIPE 

CASSATA (It is perfect for an Australian Christmas)

 

HERE ARE Simpler and Deconstructed Versions of CASSATA 

While the traditional cassata is a spectacular dessert, it is also labour-intensive.

Tastes change, and many people today prefer desserts that are lighter and less elaborate.

For this reason I often prepare simplified versions that use the same classic ingredients — ricotta, sponge, almonds and citrus — but in a more relaxed form.

One example is a deconstructed cassata, where the familiar flavours are layered in glasses rather than assembled as a formal cake. Sometimes I add fresh strawberries, which complement the ricotta beautifully.

These variations retain the essence of cassata while eliminating the complexities of traditional preparation.

Marzipan Leaves Recipe

To garnish these desserts I often prepare simple marzipan leaves, a playful reference to the decorative marzipan traditionally used on cassata.

Ingredients

  • 100 g blanched almond meal
  • 100 g icing sugar
  • 1 egg white
  • ¼ tsp vanilla extract
  • 1 drop green food colouring

Method

Combine all ingredients and knead until smooth. If the mixture is too soft, add a little more almond meal or icing sugar.

Roll the marzipan thinly between sheets of baking paper and cut into leaf shapes.

Reimagining Cassata — Less Formal

These simplified desserts reinterpret cassata in a relaxed way. They retain the characteristic flavours of ricotta, almonds and citrus while being quicker to prepare.

Layered Cassata in a Glass

Place one or two Savoiardi biscuits or sponge cake in the bottom of a glass and lightly brush with Cointreau.

Add a layer of sweetened ricotta mixture, then another layer of sponge or Savoiardi.

Finish with marzipan leaves.

EVEN Simpler

Spoon generous layers of ricotta mixture into large wine glasses.

Add marzipan leaves and one or two dry Savoiardi biscuits that can be used to scoop up the ricotta. Serve the Cointreau separately.

Cassata on the Blog Since 2009

Cassata has appeared frequently on All Things Sicilian and More over the years. If you would like to explore further, here are some related posts:

EASTER (Pasqua) in Sicily

CASSATA Explained with photos

CASSATA DECONSTRUCTED; a postmodernist take on Sicilian Cassata

CASSATA ( Post no. 2) Calls for a celebration!!!

SICILIAN CASSATA and MARZIPAN AT EASTER (Food and Culture in Sicily, La Trobe University)

SICILIAN CASSATA and some Background (perfect for an Australian Christmas)

Other  posts about Easter in Sicily

EASTER SICILIAN SPECIALTIES …. Cuddura cù ova, Pecorelle Pasquali

SCACCE and PIZZA and SICILIAN EASTER

EASTER IN SICILY – A SICILIAN FEAST IN RAGUSA – Recipes and Giuggiulena

PASQUA, Traditional sweets, Cassata Siciliana, Agnellino pasquale (Pascal Lamb)

 

 

 

 

Carne Aglassata – Glazed tongue in onion sauce

Carne Aglassata is one of Sicily’s classic braised meat dishes. Cooked slowly with an abundance of onions, the onions gradually collapse into a rich, velvety sauce that reduces to coat the meat with a beautiful glossy glaze.

The name aglassata comes from the French word glacer (to glaze), a reminder of the French influence on Sicilian cooking. Once the sauce has reduced, it clings to the meat with a silky sheen, giving the dish both its appearance and its name.

Carne Aglassata – ox tongue slowly braised with onions until the sauce becomes rich, glossy and full of flavour.
A Dish from the Monsù Kitchens

Carne Aglassata is closely associated with Palermo and the refined cooking of the Monsù—from the French monsieur. These French and French-trained cooks worked in the households of Sicily’s aristocratic families during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.

Some Monsù were French; others came from Piedmont, a region heavily influenced by France at the time. They blended French culinary techniques with Sicilian ingredients, producing elaborate dishes that became an important part of Sicily’s gastronomic history. Many of these sumptuous meals are vividly described in Il Gattopardo (The Leopard) by Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, a novel that captures Sicily during the years of the Risorgimento.

Yet Carne Aglassata remains surprisingly simple at heart. Its success depends not on expensive ingredients but on two essentials—meat and plenty of onions—slowly transformed into something remarkably rich and satisfying.

My Father’s Version: Tongue Instead of Beef

Traditionally, Carne Aglassata is prepared with yearling beef, often girello (silverside or eye of round). My father’s version as made by his family in Ragusa, was often made with ox tongue (lingua).

I’ve never understood why he began cooking it only after our family migrated to Australia. While we lived in Sicily he rarely cooked, yet once we settled here, Sunday mornings often began with the gentle aroma of onions, herbs and tongue slowly simmering on the stove.

Lunch followed a familiar pattern. Most of the onion sauce was tossed through rigatoni or penne, while the sliced tongue was served afterwards as the main course, dressed with the remaining sauce. Occasionally he added peas during the final stage of cooking, and sometimes pieces of tongue found their way into the pasta as well.

IMG_2299
Good quality pasta

It was a simple family meal, but one that remains among my strongest food memories.

Slow Cooking Makes the Difference

Traditionally the dish is cooked with lard, which gives the finished sauce its characteristic gloss. I now use mostly extra virgin olive oil, adding just a tablespoon of lard at the end to achieve the same silky finish.

Because ox tongue contains a fair amount of fat, I prefer to cook it a day ahead. After an overnight rest in the refrigerator, the solidified fat can be lifted away easily before reheating the sauce. I also trim away the thicker back section of the tongue, which is generally fattier.

The result is a lighter dish without sacrificing flavour.

IMG_2257
Lard I keep in the fridge and I collect this after roasting pork.

INGREDIENTS

  • 1 ox tongue
  • 4 large onions, thinly sliced
  • 1 glass dry white wine
  • 2 sprigs rosemary
  • 6–8 sage leaves
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • About ½ cup extra virgin olive oil and lard combined (or use all olive oil if preferred)
Preparing the Tongue

Wash the tongue thoroughly, scrubbing it well with a vegetable or clean kitchen brush.

Place it in a saucepan, cover with cold water and bring to the boil. Simmer for about 30 minutes, or until the outer skin turns white.

Drain immediately and peel away the thick outer skin while the tongue is still hot. It should come away quite easily.

Peeled ox tongue
Method

Choose a saucepan that will comfortably hold the tongue without requiring excessive water.

Place the sliced onions in the pan with the olive oil, rosemary, sage, salt and pepper. Sit the peeled tongue on top and add just enough water to almost cover it.

Cover and cook gently over low heat for about 2 hours.

Add the white wine and continue cooking, covered, for a further 30 minutes, or until the tongue is very tender.

Refrigerate the saucepan overnight.

The next day, remove and discard the solidified fat. Lift out the tongue and set it aside.

Boil the onion sauce over medium-high heat until it thickens to a rich, glossy consistency. Stir in about 1 tablespoon of lard if using.

Slice the tongue and return it to the sauce just long enough to heat through.

The tongue has been sliced and covered with the onion sauce

Serve the onion sauce with pasta as a first course, followed by the sliced tongue as the main dish, or simply serve everything together.

Any leftover tongue is also excellent pressed and served cold.

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Variations

Some Sicilian cooks add fresh peas during the final stages of cooking. Others include slices of tongue in the pasta sauce, making the first course even more substantial.

However you serve it, the true star of Carne Aglassata is the sweet, slow-cooked onion sauce that gives the dish its distinctive glaze.

Carne Aglassata is a classic Sicilian braise where ox tongue slowly cooks with onions until they become a rich, glossy sauce perfect for pasta and meat.

AGGLASSATO braised meat with a thick onion sauce

GELATINA DI MAIALE. Pork Brawn

SICILIAN CASSATA and some Background (perfect for an Australian Christmas)

The background for many of Sicily’s most celebrated sweets, including cassata and marzipan, were refined in convent kitchens. From Palermo’s Martorana to monasteries in Catania and Agrigento, nuns developed elaborate almond and ricotta desserts for religious feasts and aristocratic patrons, leaving a lasting legacy in Sicilian pastry traditions.

In this post I wish to provide more information about the important role of nuns in Sicilian Convents.

18th-19th century basilica in Noto – Benedictine nuns lived in a cloistered convent next to the basilica.
Ricotta, as is still sold in some parts of Sicily.

Convent Traditions: Nuns and the Art of Sicilian Sweets

The refinement of many Sicilian desserts owes much to the nuns of the island’s convents, particularly from the late Middle Ages through the 18th and 19th centuries. Within the cloistered life of these religious communities, convent kitchens became places of remarkable culinary creativity. Nuns prepared elaborate sweets for major religious celebrations — especially Easter, Christmas and the feasts of patron saints — and over time developed a reputation for producing some of the most refined pastries in Sicily.

Many convents supported themselves financially through the sale of sweets made within their walls. These desserts were often sold through small windows or ruote (turning wooden wheels) that allowed goods to be passed outside without the nuns breaking their enclosure. The sweets soon became sought after by local aristocratic families and wealthy households, who ordered them for weddings, baptisms and feast days.

The ingredients used reflected Sicily’s agricultural wealth and its Arab culinary legacy: almonds, sugar, citrus peel, candied fruits and ricotta. Almond paste, known as pasta reale or marzipan, was especially important.

One of the most famous examples comes from Palermo, where the Benedictine nuns of the Convent of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio, commonly known as La Martorana, became renowned for shaping coloured marzipan into extraordinarily realistic fruits and vegetables. These sweets, called frutta martorana, were originally prepared for the Feast of All Saints but later became one of Sicily’s most recognisable confectionery traditions.

In Catania, convent pastry traditions also flourished. The Benedictine nuns of the Monastero dei Benedettini di San Nicolò l’Arena, one of the largest Benedictine monasteries in Europe, were known for preparing elaborate sweets for religious festivals and aristocratic patrons. Catania’s rich convent pastry tradition later contributed to famous desserts such as minne di Sant’Agata, small ricotta-filled cakes created in honour of the city’s patron saint.

Further south, in Agrigento, the nuns of convents such as the Monastero di Santo Spirito became celebrated for their almond-based sweets. Their pastries, including delicate almond biscuits and marzipan confections, were closely linked to local almond cultivation and to the Arab-influenced techniques that had shaped Sicilian confectionery for centuries.

Convent kitchens also played an important role in refining the appearance of cassata Siciliana. Through careful layering of sponge cake, sweetened ricotta and candied fruits, and by covering the cake with marzipan and icing, the nuns helped transform what may once have been a simpler ricotta dessert into the richly decorated cassata associated with Sicilian celebrations today.

Although many convents have since closed, their influence remains deeply embedded in Sicily’s pastry traditions. Numerous classic sweets — including cassata, marzipan fruits and other almond-based confections — still carry the unmistakable legacy of convent pastry making, where devotion, patience and artistry were expressed through sugar and almonds.

 The contribution of the monsù

The pastry traditions of Sicilian convents later intersected with the work of the monsù, the French-trained chefs employed in aristocratic households from the eighteenth century onwards. While the nuns preserved and developed many almond- and ricotta-based sweets within convent kitchens, the monsù refined and elaborated these traditions, introducing greater technical sophistication and decorative flourish that helped shape the elaborate cassata and marzipan desserts recognised today.

SICILIAN CASSATA and MARZIPAN AT EASTER (Food and Culture in Sicily, La Trobe University)

CASSATA (It is perfect for an Australian Christmas)

MARZAPANE also called Pasta Reale (Marzipan)

CASSATA ( Post no. 2) Calls for a celebration!!!

Below are some photos of Cassata – from ornate versions to my home made versions:
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Cassata, simple fondant decoration.
cassata P1020058
Cassata made at home.
Cassata 2
Cassata made at home decorated with Marzipan fruit.
Cassata slice
Cassata slice.
Homemade cassata,
Homemade Cassata,