Category: Main Course/ Secondo/Substantial

PIZZAIOLA: NAPLES, CAMPANIA

Pizzaiola (or alla pizzaiola) is a traditional, rustic Italian cooking style that uses simple ingredients from Naples, in the Campania region of southern Italy. It’s about simmering meat, typically inexpensive cuts of beef or veal in a rich tomato-based sauce seasoned with garlic, olive oil, parsley, and oregano.

The term pizzaiola comes from pizzaiolo, meaning “pizza maker,” and refers to the similarity between the sauce used in this dish and the classic Neapolitan pizza sauce. Both share basic ingredients like tomatoes, garlic, oregano, and olive oil that became iconic toppings after the 18th century, when tomatoes were fully integrated into southern Italian cuisine.

Carne alla pizzaiola is a perfect example of cucina povera – the “cuisine of the poor” – no-fuss cooking where simple, inexpensive ingredients are changed into flavourful meals.

The Meat: Tender or Tough. Quick Cooking or Slow Cooking?

Thin slices of beef (1cm)—such as fettine di manzo—are ideal for quick cooking. Cuts like Scotch fillet, porterhouse, or rump are tender enough for short simmering times.

But pizzaiola is also a great way to cook tougher cuts like blade steak, shoulder (spalla), or round (girello). I recently made it with topside and have used this cut of meat in previous times and after a longer, slow simmer, the meat became tender in the sauce.

Pizzaiola: Seasonal Variations

One of the joys of pizzaiola is how adaptable it is to the seasons:

Winter (with canned tomatoes):

I prefer to sear the meat first to add depth of flavour. Then, I gently cook garlic (sometimes whole cloves) in olive oil, add the canned tomatoes and oregano, and simmer the sauce for 10 minutes before adding the meat and parsley.

Summer (with fresh tomatoes):

When tomatoes are ripe and flavourful, I don’t sear. I combine raw meat with peeled, diced fresh tomatoes, herbs, oil and garlic right from the start—no pre-cooking. It’s lighter and fresher.

I often add sliced potatoes (just like my mother did). If using quick-cooking meat, slice potatoes thinly; for longer cooking cuts, slice them thicker so everything finishes together.

Classic Carne alla Pizzaiola (with Potatoes)

Serves 2

Ingredients:

  • 2–4 thin or medium-cut beef slices
  • 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
  • 400g tin crushed or peeled tomatoes, cut into chunks
  • 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 tsp dried oregano or 3 tbsp chopped fresh oregano
  • Salt & cracked black pepper to taste
  • 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley

Optional: 3–4 medium potatoes (Desiree or Sebago), peeled and cut into thick slices.

Instructions:

  • Heat olive oil in a large frypan over medium heat.
  • Add sliced garlic and cook gently until fragrant—don’t let it brown.
  • Sear beef steaks for 1–2 minutes per side to brown lightly.
  • Distribute potato slices (if using) between the meat.
  • Add tomatoes, oregano, salt, pepper, and parsley over the meat and potatoes.
  • Cover the pan, lower the heat, and simmer for 15–20 minutes (or 40-50mins for tougher cuts), turning steaks once. The sauce will thicken and the meat will become tender.

 

As you would expect I have written about Pizzaiola  in a previous post:

PIZZAIOLA (Steak cooked alla pizzaiola with tomatoes and herbs)

A few other braises:

GULASCH (Goulash as made in Trieste)

BRAISED KID (capretto) in a simple marinade of red wine, extra virgin olive oil and herbs

SPEZZATINO DI CAPRETTO (Italian Goat/ Kid stew)

POLLO OR GALLINA ALLA CONTADINA, ALLA PAESANA. Braised Chicken with Olives, Sicilian style.

DUCK BREAST, ALCOHOL and EMBELLISHMENTS

When it comes to cooking a dinner that feels both special and incredibly simple, pan-fried duck breasts are a standout option, especially when cooked with embellishments, and in this case – cumquats and a slash of alcohol (in this case vodka).

While many cooks tend to reserve duck for formal occasions, it’s surprisingly affordable and easy to prepare. In fact, duck breasts are often only a little more expensive than free-range chicken, making them m perfect for an elegant yet simple dinner for both special celebrations and weekday meals.

The inspiration for this dish came from some preserved cumquats I’d made last year during their season. I preserved them in vodka with some blood orange liqueur and I knew it would make a fantastic pairing with duck.

One of the best things about pan-fried duck is the simple cooking and versatility. A splash of alcohol—whether it’s vodka, wine, vermouth, or a splash of stock— all add complexity and depth to the sauce, for example vermouth creates a bright, aromatic sauce, while a dash of red wine adds a deeper, richer layer. And by adding small amounts of fruit, nuts, pulses, different herbs (thyme, rosemary, bay, sage), spice (star anise, juniper, cloves, cinnamon), or different stocks or flavoured liquids, the flavour is easily transformed.

The vegetable component for this meal in this case was a sauté of spinach cooked with a little extra virgin olive oil and garlic, alongside some simply steamed green beans that are complemented by the taste of the sauce.

An advantage of pan frying duck is that you can quickly and efficiently drain off the fat either to keep for another time or to pan fry potatoes, cooked beforehand and browned in the fry pan.

Cumquats

You are probably not likely to have cumquats that have been preserved in vodka, but you can easily make a quick version:

Quickly made Glazed Cumquats

16-20 whole cumquats,
2 cups water,
½ cup sugar, 2 whole star anise or a stick of cinnamon.

Place the ingredients in a saucepan and simmer gently for 30 mins or until soft. Remove cumquats. Add sugar to liquid in pan and cook for 5 minutes to form a syrup. Return cumquats to the pan and continue to cook gently for about 15- 20 mins or until the fruit is glazed and syrup has reduced to about a cup. Add a splash of vodka (optional, or save it till later) and leave till you are ready to add the cumquats to the duck or they can be stored in a sealed jar the fridge for up to a week.

Preserving Cumquats in Alcohol (Easy Version)

If you’d like to try preserving cumquats for future use, it’s incredibly simple.

This version needs to be stored for at least a couple of months but will keep for much longer

Wash and dry the cumquats well, pricking each one several times with a fine skewer.

Place the cumquats in sterilized jars and add your choice of spices—star anise or, cinnamon. I also added a blood orange liqueur.

Pour your preferred spirit (vodka, brandy, or any liqueur) into the jar, covering the cumquats completely. I rarely add sugar in liqueurs since they are often sweet enough, but if you prefer to add some to a spirit, dissolve a little sugar in hot water before adding.

Seal the jars and store them in a cool, dark place for at least two months before using.

Using Alcohol in both savoury cooking and desserts

I use mostly wine, vinegar or stock for deglazing  but I also particularly enjoy to use flavoured grappa, vodkas, vermouths, dry marsala and Pernod or Ricard (for anise flavours). For desserts, I use sweeter liqueurs. It’s a great way to add depth and interest to both savoury and sweet dishes.

Over the years, I am embarrassed to say that I’ve accumulated a collection of spirits and liqueurs that I now use and experiment with when cooking. In the past, serving a small glass of spirits as an aperitivo or a digestivo was quite the trend, as was a liqueur or an amaro after dinner, but no longer. Using up those leftover bottles to deglaze pans to elevate my dishes eases some of that guilt.

As well as playing around with alcohol, I am a great user of herbs and spices and I greatly enjoy selecting what could pair well with the ingredients I am using.

The recipe below may help clarify what I am discussing above.

I use a non-stick pan for sautéing duck, ensuring it didn’t stick, and another for the potatoes.

Pan-Fried Duck with Vodka-Infused Cumquats

Ingredients:

2 duck breasts

2 spring onions, fresh parsley and thyme

extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper

Preserved or quickly made glazed cumquats in vodka (with star anise)

a splash of vodka ( wine or your favourite spirit)

For the potatoes: Pre-cooked potatoes, sliced and ready to brown in a separate pan

Method:

Prepare the Duck: Start by scoring the skin of the duck breasts in a deep criss-cross pattern. This helps the fat melt away faster and ensures a crispy skin. Heat a small amount of oil in your pan, and once hot, place the duck skin-side down. Add a few sprigs of thyme for extra flavour. Cook for 5-6 minutes, allowing the fat to render out.

Cook the Duck: Flip the duck over and season with salt and pepper. Continue cooking for another 6-8 minutes, or until the duck is cooked to your liking. I prefer mine pink, but feel free to cook it a little longer if you like it more well-done. Once cooked, remove the duck from the pan and let it rest while you deal with the sauce and complimentary ingredients. At this stage you may notice that there is still some blood running off the meat but the duck will be added to the sauce once it is made and this will finish the cooking.

Prepare the Sauce: In the same pan, make sure that there is still some grease in the pan (or add some oil) for the next part of the cooking.. Toss in your spring onions and cook until soft. Add a handful of parsley for freshness and colour.

*If using preserved cumquats in alcohol drain them before you add them to the pan Allow them to cook for a minute or two before adding a splash of the drained vodka, or any other spirit of your choice. Let the alcohol evaporate completely before returning the duck to the pan, allowing the flavours to meld together.

* If using the glazed cumquats, add them to the pan with their liquid, add more vodka if you wish any other spirit of your choice. Let the alcohol evaporate completely before returning the duck to the pan, allowing the flavours to meld together.

Finish the Dish: Once the sauce is ready, slice the duck breasts and place them back in the pan to soak up the flavours. Serve the duck slices with the sauce and your vegetable sides.

See also:

Other duck recipes:

Sicilian Duck with green olives and anchovies; Anatra a Papparedda cu ulivi

RIGATONI CON RAGU; ANATRA (duck ragout)

DUCK AND MUSHROOM RAGÙ

LEFTOVERS, PAN FRIED DUCK WITH DRIED CHERRIES, PARSLEY OIL  recipes

 

 

OVEN COOKED KID (capretto)

I am writing about kid, not goat. Unlike goat, there was very little fat and the meat did not exude that characteristic, heavy smell of game that is present when cutting goat and mutton.

Capretto, Italians call it and it is a meat that is not cooked regularly, but is often cooked on special occasions. I bought it from an Italian butcher. I went in to buy  some pork sausages but when I saw what the Italian customers that were lining up at the counter were all buying, I did the same. I bought capretto.

The Italian word for goat is capra and like mutton, goat is not generally eaten in Italy.

I marinaded it overnight with extra virgin olive oil, red wine, fennel seeds, bay leaves, rosemary, onion and sage. As you can see in the photo there is plenty of marinade; I wanted the meat to be quite well covered and intended to use the marinade in the cooking.

Nothing is wasted, the herbs are discarded and replaced with fresh herbs. This is because I have herbs growing on my balcony and I can afford to do this. I added garlic when i ws ready to cook the meat.

The important thing to do in this recipe is to cook the usual soffritto base that is omnipresent in Italian cooking – onion, carrot and celery – in extra virgin olive oil and make sure that the soffritto vegetables are caramilised before combining it with the drained marinaded meat.The meat does not need to be browned before hand making the cooking process easier and quicker. I have a cast iron baking pan that is very convenient for putting directly onto the stove.

The soffritto took about 15 minutes to soften and caramilise the vegetables ad this process adds a much enriched flavour to the dish. A dash of passata or some peeled red tomatoes also adds to the taste and colour to the braise.

Once you have drained the meat  and removed the old herbs use the marinade to the capretto. Add fresh herbs and some stock. As you can see in the photo there is enough liquid to almost cover the meat.

Cover the pan with some foil or a lid and leave it to cook in a slow oven. Mine was set at 170C degrees  and because I have two similar baking trays the spare one made a good lid.

Remove the foil after an hour. Move the meat around and add more broth or water and cook it uncovered until the meat is separated from the bones. I baked mine for about two hours without the foil, but made sure that if I needed to add more liquid, I had some stock to use.

The results were delicious. The vegetables almost melted, the meat was easily detached from the bone, it smelled great and tasted even better. And yes, it was a special meal.

I presented it with baked potatoes and braised endives sautéed with anchovies.

The kid weighed 2 kilos. as you can see there was very little fat.

This is not the first time I have cooked capretto – kid/goat

BRAISED KID (capretto) in a simple marinade of red wine, extra virgin olive oil and herbs

RICETTE per capretto (e capra); Recipes for slow cooked kid and goat

RAGU` DI CAPRETTO; Goat/ kid ragout as a dressing for pasta

SPEZZATINO DI CAPRETTO (Italian Goat/ Kid stew)

KID/GOAT WITH ALMONDS (SPRING IN SICILY, CAPRETTO CON LE MANDORLE)

SLOW COOKED LEG OF GOAT WITH HOT MINT SAUCE

SICILIAN SEAFOOD COOKING, ITALIANICIOUS and READER’S FEAST Bookstore. Recipe for Slow cooked goat in Nero D’Avola

 

BAKED FISH WITH POTATOES, VINEGAR and ANCHOVIES

It is the season to begin thinking about fish and how to cook it to make it special.

Baked Fish With Potatoes, Vinegar And Anchovies Sicilian – Pisci o furno chi patati  is a recipe from my book Sicilian Seafood Cooking (now out of print), and it is so simple to cook that I could do it with my eyes closed.

The fish is a locally caught sustainable Snapper. You can see that I make slits in the fish’s sides and in the slits I insert a couple of anchovies. If you don’t like anchovies use fresh herbs; good for this fish are wild fennel, thyme, rosemary or tarragon.

I made the marinade and marinaded the fish in your baking tray for an hour before cooking.

In the marinade you can see that I have used consists of chopped parsley, quite a bit of onion and grated lemon peel. The liquid is: extra virgin olive oil, some wine vinegar and some lemon juice. Add a bit of salt and pepper also. I have included some quantities in the recipe below, but really, the fun of cooking is also experimenting.

Mix up the marinade and let the fish steep in it for about an hour. Turn it over a few times before you bake it. You can bake potatoes with it if you wish and the potatoes take on that lemon flavour that often Greek baked potatoes have when baked with lemon (usually cooked with chicken). The Greeks did settle in Sicily after all!

I usually part-cook my potatoes and put them in to bake with the fish about 15mins before I think the fish is ready. Raw slices of potatoes are used in the recipe and these will require longer cooking time, but do whatever you think is more practical for you.

 

PESCE INFORNATO CON PATATE/ Sicilian – Pisci o furno chi patati
Baked fish with potatoes (and vinegar and anchovies)
Ingredients
1–1.5kg (2lb 4oz–3lb 5oz) whole fish
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 onions, finely chopped a small bunch parsley, finely chopped
250g (9oz) potatoes, thinly sliced or par-boiled potatoes in chunks
3–6 anchovies, finely chopped (see above)
juice of 2 lemons, plus grated zest of 1 lemon
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Suitable fish
Any whole fish or large, thick fillets of medium to firm fish, preferably with the skin on. The fish is cooked whole, filleted and portioned at the table.
Method
If using whole fish or fillets with skin, make a series of slashes in the skin. Mix
the oil with the vinegar, onions and parsley. Add seasoning and marinate the
fish for about an hour, turning frequently.
Place the fish in an ovenproof dish, spoon half of the marinade over it and bake for 10 minutes in a 200°C (400°F) oven. Arrange the sliced potatoes around the fish. Sprinkle the potatoes and the fish with more marinade, the anchovies, lemon juice and grated zest. Bake for another 20–35 minutes, depending on the type of fish. Serve hot.
To see if the fish is cooked to your liking, you can test  the fish with a fork held at an angle. Insert it at the thickest point of the fish and twist the fork. it should flake easily.
Variation
Place rosemary and bay leaves underneath the fish in the baking pan.
See:
There is a photo in this post where I used red onion and it can look quite spectacular.

THE MANY VERSIONS OF CAPONATE and grilled food

Cooking and eating is greatly influenced by the seasonal variations in weather and the available seasonal produce.

Abundant in summer are eggplants, tomatoes, zucchini and peppers/capsicum and I enjoy making the most of these vibrant ingredients during this time.  Summer is also a time for grilled food that adds both char and depth of flavor to food.

Celebrating what’s in season enhances the taste of our dishes and allows us to connect more closely with nature’s cycles.

There are recipes in this post for grilled sardines and squid. Also grilled zucchini,  eggplants and peppers and a version of caponata as baked in the oven. A celery caponata makes a perfect and easy accompaniment for grilled food.

I particularly like grilled fish, especially sardines.

And squid tastes fantastic grilled, the charring adds so much flavour and character.  The tentacles are good too and apart from having a more intense flavour they offer a different texture. Squid will not need much cooking, especially if it has been marinading beforehand for an hour or so. Cook the squid quickly – about 5 mins on one side, flip it over and cook the other side for less. The marinade can be as uncomplicated as a little extra virgin olive oil, salt and a few herbs of your choice. To the marinade this time, I also added a splash of white wine.

A simple drizzle of good, extra virgin olive oil and lemon juice could be sufficient as a finishing dressing, especially it you are accompanying the squid with some flavourful side dishes.

There are also two accompanying,  Sicilian green, traditional sauces  –  Salmoriglio and Zogghiu to accompany all grilled food.

As for the accompanying dishes, I made two different Sicilian caponate (plural of caponata) and a green salad.

Caponate also make good starters and they taste better if cooked days before, making them an easy option. They are always served at room temperature: take them out of the fridge about 30 mins before serving.

Caponata as cooked in the oven

I cooked one of the caponate in the oven and used eggplants, onions, celery and peppers/capsicums. To make it different,  apart from baking the vegetables, I also added fennel seeds, plenty of basil and garlic as well as the customary green olives, capers, sugar, vinegar and pine nuts.

I definitely prefer the traditional method of sautéing  of each of the vegetables in hot oil because although I roasted the vegetables at high temperatures, they released far too many juices. I drained the liquid and evaporated in a saucepan and then pour it back into the oven tray. In the end it did taste good, but the flavour took far too long to fix.

Cool the caponata. Place the basil and toasted pine nuts on the caponata at the time of serving.

The caponata in the photo below is made with celery.  This caponata is very quick to cook and the addition of sultanas accentuate the sweet taste. The vinegar (present in all caponate) provides the sour taste and this cooked salad tastes very much like a pickle.

This celery caponata has the addition of toasted almonds rather than pine nuts.

The celery and onions are the only two vegetable ingredients and they can be sautéed in the same pan at the same time. Once they are slightly softened, add the drained and plump sultanas that have been soaking in water for an hour or so.  Add a little sugar and once the sugar begins to caramelise, add a splash of vinegar and evaporate.

Friends also enjoy the chocolate version of caponata. Pieces of dark chocolate are added in the final stages of cooking the eggplant version of caponata that is characteristic of Palermo and its region.

The caponata that includes peppers is typical of Catania and its region.

GRILLED CALAMARI (CALAMARI ‘NTA BRACI (Sicilian) – CALAMARI ALLA BRACE (Italian)

SARDINES, grilled or barbecued with Sicilian dressings

SALAMURRIGGHIU – SALMORIGLIO (Dressing made with oil, lemon and oregano)

ZOGGHIU (Sicilian pesto/dressing made with garlic, parsley and mint)

ANTIPASTO – GRILLED SUMMER VEGETABLES AND A SCOOP OF SALADS

CAPONATA FROM PALERMO (made with eggplants)

CAPONATA Catanese (from Catania) made easy with photos

CAPONATA DI NATALE (Christmas, winter caponata made with celery, almonds and sultanas)

For more recipes for different versions of Caponata, use the search button.

BRAISED KID (capretto) in a simple marinade of red wine, extra virgin olive oil and herbs

Kid is capretto in Italian and I have marinaded the meat in wine with some aromatic herbs and then braised it.

THE BENEFITS of MARINADING 

Marinating is an effective way to add flavour, moisture and to tenderize meat before cooking. I do this with all the large pieces of meat that are going to be slow cooked. Even steak, pork fillets and some fish get a short session of marinade, even if it is just a splash or rubbing of extra virgin olive oil with seasoning, garlic and/or herbs. For most of my large pieces of meat,  I often use an acid , like, wine, citrus juice or vinegar. This component of the marinade helps to tenderise the meat.  The herbs and spices enhance the flavour. Good olive oil has a multi-purpose function.  It adds a distinct taste, melds the different flavours of the marinade together and, after the meat is drained from the marinade , some of the oil that has adhered  to the meat assists in the browning process.

For this braise, I bought 3 legs of kid (capretto) and deboned it. This amounted to roughly 1.5 kg. The same marinade can be used for goat, lamb or sheep and would also be good for beef.

There were four of us for dinner and there were some leftovers that I converted into a Sardinian-flavoured sauce for gnochetti by adding a few, common Sardinian ingredients.

INGREDIENTS

For the Marinade

  • 750 ml (1 bottle) red wine
  • ½ cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 sprig rosemary
  • 2 sage leaves
  • 1 sprig thyme
  • 6–8 juniper berries
  • 1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

 

  • For the Meat
  • 1.5 kg kid goat, cut into cubes
  • 50 g pancetta or speck, cut into small cubes
  • Extra virgin olive oil, for browning
  • Salt, to taste
  • Fresh herbs, juniper berries, and peppercorns (as above, to replace those from the marinade)
  • Stock, as needed, to keep the meat moist during cooking

For the Soffritto

  • 1 onion, finely chopped
  • 2 carrots, finely chopped
  • 1 stick celery, finely chopped

Prepare the Soffritto
In the same pan, add the finely chopped onion, carrot, and celery. Sauté gently until softened and aromatic.

METHOD

Prepare the Marinade
In a large bowl, combine the red wine, olive oil, bay leaves, rosemary, sage, thyme, juniper berries, and peppercorns. Add the cubed kid meat and mix well to coat. Cover and refrigerate for about 8 hours, or overnight.

Drain and Prepare the Meat
Remove the meat from the marinade, draining well. Reserve the liquid, discarding the spent herbs and spices.

Brown the Meat
Heat a little extra virgin olive oil in a large heavy-based casserole or Dutch oven.

Brown the meat, a little at a time. Do not overcrowd the meat. Remove the meat and set aside.

Add the pancetta or speck and cook over medium heat until lightly browned and the fat has rendered.

In the same pan, add the finely chopped onion, carrot, and celery. (Soffritto)  Sauté gently until softened and aromatic.

 

Deglaze and Braise
Return the browned meat to the pan. Pour in the reserved marinade, bring to a simmer, and add a fresh batch of herbs, peppercorns, and juniper berries.

Cook Slowly
Cover and simmer gently over low heat, adding stock as needed to keep the meat moist. I added about 1 cup of stock. It is always easy to evaporate excess liquid at the end of cooking rather than cooking meat in too little liquid. Cook until the meat is tender and the sauce is rich and flavorful — about  2 hours.

Remove the 

The meat I cooked must have been quite tender because it cooked in two hours.
Remove the meat and evaporate some of the liquid.

I presented the meat with braised Brussel sprouts, sautéd mushrooms and roasted, squashed potatoes.

Baked polenta would have been good too.

What did I do with the leftovers?

Lamb and goat are often used in Sardinian dishes.

For the Sardinian style pasta, I sautéd a little onion in some olive oil, a added some saffron that had been soaking in stock, a little tomato paste and the meat with its leftover juices.

I used gnocchetti sardi – shaped pasta. I added shards of pecorino cheese when I presented the pasta and emulated Sardinian ingredients and flavours .

 

Other kid or goat recipes:

RAGU` DI CAPRETTO – Goat/ kid ragout as a dressing for pasta

RICETTE per capretto (e capra) – Recipes for slow cooked kid and goat

 

 

 

MAIALE AL LATTE (Pork cooked in milk)

Even if it is pork, Maiale al latte (Pork cooked in Milk) is a light, delicate and sweet tasting dish, a classic recipe from the Veneto region of Italy.

This is one of the easiest and most delicious recipes for cooking a lump of pork, either the loin or the neck. I prefer it not to be a fatty piece of meat and I trim most of the fat off.

Many like to prepare a pork dish for Christmas. Pork braised in milk could make a pleasant  change!

About the Recipe

Maiale al latte – pork gently braised in milk until meltingly tender – is one of those old farmhouse dishes that several Italian regions claim as their own. Tuscan cooks link it to their classic arista roasts, in Emilia-Romagna it’s made with the local abundance of milk and Parmigiano, in Friuli it appears as purcit tal lat, and there are even Neapolitan and Campanian versions. Over time it has become a pan-Italian comfort dish: simple pork, plenty of milk, a few herbs, and a long, slow simmer on the stove.

I first discovered this recipe in Ada Boni’s books. Some classify maiale/al latte as a traditional dish of Emilia-Romagna (the land of Parmigiano Reggiano), and in Marcella Hazan’s books she describes the pork-in-milk roast as Bolognese in origin.

I always use full cream milk. The milk separates into flavourful and creamy curds that can be gently strained out and served on the side or under the succulent, cooked meat that has been sliced. The meat juices and whey are the fragrant sauce.

Pork cooked in milk.

Fresh sage, garlic and lemon rind are the flavours. I  also like to use quite a bit of black pepper.

I used a boneless loin of pork.

RECIPE FOR MAIALE AL LATTE

Ingredients for 1k.500g:

extra virgin olive oil and butter to seal the meat and brown
1 small head of  garlic,  cloves peeled and halved
salt and freshly ground black pepper
fresh sage,  about 10 large leaves
full cream  milk, a sufficient amount to cover up to three quarters of the meat.
lemon peel from one large lemon cut into thin, wide strips – use a potato peeler.

Processes

Trim the fat off the meat, rub salt and pepper all over the pork and leave for about 10 mins.
Use a heavy-bottomed pot that is large enough to hold pork and milk that will almost cover the pork.
Brown the pork on all sides in some oil and butter. Use medium-high heat. Add pork and cook until well browned on all sides.
Add garlic and sage and milk. Bring to a boil, add lemon zest, reduce heat to medium-low.
Cover and gently simmer the meat. Resist stirring. Turn over the meat a couple of times and cook for about 3 hours.  The milk will have reduced and golden curds would have formed. It will smell like caramel.

Transfer meat to a cutting board and let it rest while you lift off the curds gently and separate them from the liquid. The garlic will have dissolved into the sauce. Remove the lemon peel and the sage leaves. Skim off any fat (I did not need to do this as my meat was pretty lean).

Observe the thick caramelised milk sauce.

Slice the meat.  Serve  on a bed of curds and the caramel meat juices poured on top.

Present with asparagus for a taste of summer.

FISH POACHED IN A FISH KETTLE in bouillon

 

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The method of slowly poaching a whole fish in a fish kettle is easy. The poaching liquid in this case was salted water, whole parsley – leaves and stalks, black peppercorns, lemons and onions cut into  thick slices. The fish was an Atlantic Salmon.

The poaching liquid (bouillon) can be a combination of salted water and white wine and contain some aromatics of your choice to flavour the stock. Common are whole black peppercorns, fresh fennel, or fennel seeds, dill stalks or seeds, carrots, celery, fresh bay leaves, thyme, but it is important not to use too many ingredients to flavour the liquid because the strength of cooking the fish in this way is to taste the natural taste of the fish.

The greatest advantage in using a fish kettle is that it contains a perforated insert on which the fish sits, enabling it to be easily lowered into and raised from the poaching liquid. Placing some of the ingredients (if not all) to flavour the fish underneath the perforated insert can be advantageous and keep the bottom side of the fish from being over flavoured. Some of the flavourings can also be placed in the centre of the fish.

I do not have a photo of the fish kettle that was used to poach the Atlantic Salmon (it belongs to my friend), but in this photo below is of my fish kettle. It is much smaller but it can easily hold two fish. The 1k flathead is sitting on the perforated insert.

IMG_2843

Unfortunately giving precise information is not possible because it depends on the size  and species of the fish and how cooked you like it. We are talking about poaching the fish on low heat. Don’t bring your pot to a boil, or to simmer. It needs to reach the required temperature slowly.

If you have thermometer the fish will need to be poached at a temperature of 80-85 °C.

If you do not have a thermometer observe how small bubbles will gently rise and break on the surface. This is your indication that it has reached the required temperature.  . 

Procedure:

Place aromatics into the fish kettle, place the fish on the perforated insert, add the liquid to cover the fish (it must be covered).  Cover with a lid and wait till the temperature reaches of 80-85C or till the small bubbles rise to the surface. Leave it for about 5 minutes.

This large fish was about 4k and it took about 30 mins for the bubbles to rise to the surface or to reach the poaching temperature. 

Switch off the heat and allow the fish to stand in the water until it is at room temperature.

Test the fish by inserting a skewer or fork into the thickest part of the fish – undercooked fish resists flaking and is translucent, cooked fish is opaque and flakes.

Remove it from the poaching liquid and the fish will be ready to eat. It is best eaten at room temperature.

A herb salad or a simple dressing made with extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice and fresh herbs is perfect. Any of the following soft herbs: parsley, dill, tarragon, chervil, fennel.

If you need to refrigerate the fish or have fish left over and want to serve it the next day it could be served with a stronger sauce.

Alternative dressings:

SALAMURRIGGHIU – SALMORIGLIO (Dressing made with oil, lemon and oregano)

ZOGGHIU (Sicilian pesto/dressing made with garlic, parsley and mint)

PESCE IN BIANCO (Plain fish). MAIONESE (Mayonnaise)

 

 

 

FREE RANGE PORK WITH NORTHERN ITALIAN FLAVOURS

These free -range pork chops bought at a Farmers’ Market were simply and quickly cooked and tasted delicious. The meat was very tender and extremely flavourful. I used sage, thyme and juniper berries and these are Northern Italian flavours.

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This Berkshire pork  comes from Brooklands Free Range Farms in Blamfield, in the central highlands of Victoria.

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If you live in Victoria, the pork is sold in some of Farmers Markets – see list on the photo below, it is on the back of their business card.

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WHY GIN OR DRY VERMOUTH TO DEGLAZE?

When I use juniper berries I like to deglaze the pan either with dry vermouth or gin rather than white wine. Juniper berries are a spice used in a wide variety of culinary dishes and best known for the primary flavouring in gin – you will not need much and it will enhance the taste of the sauce.

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Add a small amount of extra virgin olive oil to a frying pan, then place the meat, a pinch of salt, herbs and juniper berries. I used approximately eight juniper berries. The pork is lean and pink, just how I like it.

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Turn them over when coloured on one side, cover and cook on low heat for approximately six minutes.

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Turn again, deglaze. Turn off heat, rest for a few minutes before serving.

Thank you Brooklands Free Range Farms for producing top quality produce and what i particularly like is that these pigs not only frolic on rich volcanic soils but that other local producers contribute to feeding these pigs- local grain, vegetables and whey. The pigs also eat seasonal acorns…very European.

Sicilian recipes for pork:
BRACIOLI DI MAIALI O’ VINU (Sicilian for Pork Chops Cooked In Wine)

PORK IN RAGUSA (I Ragusani mangiano molto maiale)

 

 

COZZE IN BRODETTO (mussels in a little broth)

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The Cozze in Brodetto are Mussels in a little broth  and this dish turned out rather well. We ate with oven-toasted bread, rubbed and baked with extra virgin olive oil and a clove of raw garlic. The crisp bread soaked up the fragrant juices beautifully.

This dish came together from four distinct components, each bringing its own  depth of flavour:

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The Tomato Salsa
A flavourful, rustic sauce made from two tins of peeled tomatoes gently simmered in extra virgin olive oil with fresh garlic cloves, a sprig of oregano, and a sprig of rosemary. The sauce was cooked until the tomatoes softened and the oil turned a deep red  and was a perfect balance of sweet, tangy, and herbal.

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The Mussels (Cozze)
Fresh, glossy mussels were steamed lightly in white wine until they opened and released their juice, this was the natural seafood stock. The liquid was strained and reserved, and added to the final dish.

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The Soffritto
A delicate base of finely chopped celery, fennel, spring onions, and baby carrots sautéed slowly in extra virgin olive oil. Add half of the herbs, see below. This gave the dish texture and a gentle aroma.

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The Herbs
Chopped parsley and fennel fronds , some added to the soffritto and some added at the end, stirred through just before serving.

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Once everything was combined – the tomato sauce, the mussels and their broth, the vegetables, and the herbs the sum of all things came together as something both simple and very satisfying. The broth was light but full of flavour, and the mussels kept their freshness.

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Was it from a particular region of Italy?

I don’t know. The ingredients and the way of cooking were Italian enough, and I imagine it could be made anywhere along the coast. Perhaps in the South of Italy they’d add some chilli.

Wherever it belongs, we liked it, and that’s really the best measure of success.

MUSSELS IN TRIESTE and Mussel recipes

SPAGHETTINI E COZZE; Spaghettini with mussels

COZZE CON SAMBUCA (Mussels with Sambuca- anice flavoured liqueur)