Carne Aglassata is one of Sicily’s classic braised meat dishes. Cooked slowly with an abundance of onions, the onions gradually collapse into a rich, velvety sauce that reduces to coat the meat with a beautiful glossy glaze.
The name aglassata comes from the French word glacer (to glaze), a reminder of the French influence on Sicilian cooking. Once the sauce has reduced, it clings to the meat with a silky sheen, giving the dish both its appearance and its name.
A Dish from the Monsù Kitchens
Carne Aglassata is closely associated with Palermo and the refined cooking of the Monsù—from the French monsieur. These French and French-trained cooks worked in the households of Sicily’s aristocratic families during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.
Some Monsù were French; others came from Piedmont, a region heavily influenced by France at the time. They blended French culinary techniques with Sicilian ingredients, producing elaborate dishes that became an important part of Sicily’s gastronomic history. Many of these sumptuous meals are vividly described in Il Gattopardo (The Leopard) by Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, a novel that captures Sicily during the years of the Risorgimento.
Yet Carne Aglassata remains surprisingly simple at heart. Its success depends not on expensive ingredients but on two essentials—meat and plenty of onions—slowly transformed into something remarkably rich and satisfying.
My Father’s Version: Tongue Instead of Beef
Traditionally, Carne Aglassata is prepared with yearling beef, often girello (silverside or eye of round). My father’s version as made by his family in Ragusa, was often made with ox tongue (lingua).
I’ve never understood why he began cooking it only after our family migrated to Australia. While we lived in Sicily he rarely cooked, yet once we settled here, Sunday mornings often began with the gentle aroma of onions, herbs and tongue slowly simmering on the stove.
Lunch followed a familiar pattern. Most of the onion sauce was tossed through rigatoni or penne, while the sliced tongue was served afterwards as the main course, dressed with the remaining sauce. Occasionally he added peas during the final stage of cooking, and sometimes pieces of tongue found their way into the pasta as well.
It was a simple family meal, but one that remains among my strongest food memories.
Slow Cooking Makes the Difference
Traditionally the dish is cooked with lard, which gives the finished sauce its characteristic gloss. I now use mostly extra virgin olive oil, adding just a tablespoon of lard at the end to achieve the same silky finish.
Because ox tongue contains a fair amount of fat, I prefer to cook it a day ahead. After an overnight rest in the refrigerator, the solidified fat can be lifted away easily before reheating the sauce. I also trim away the thicker back section of the tongue, which is generally fattier.
The result is a lighter dish without sacrificing flavour.
INGREDIENTS
- 1 ox tongue
- 4 large onions, thinly sliced
- 1 glass dry white wine
- 2 sprigs rosemary
- 6–8 sage leaves
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- About ½ cup extra virgin olive oil and lard combined (or use all olive oil if preferred)
Preparing the Tongue
Wash the tongue thoroughly, scrubbing it well with a vegetable or clean kitchen brush.
Place it in a saucepan, cover with cold water and bring to the boil. Simmer for about 30 minutes, or until the outer skin turns white.
Drain immediately and peel away the thick outer skin while the tongue is still hot. It should come away quite easily.
Method
Choose a saucepan that will comfortably hold the tongue without requiring excessive water.
Place the sliced onions in the pan with the olive oil, rosemary, sage, salt and pepper. Sit the peeled tongue on top and add just enough water to almost cover it.
Cover and cook gently over low heat for about 2 hours.
Add the white wine and continue cooking, covered, for a further 30 minutes, or until the tongue is very tender.
Refrigerate the saucepan overnight.
The next day, remove and discard the solidified fat. Lift out the tongue and set it aside.
Boil the onion sauce over medium-high heat until it thickens to a rich, glossy consistency. Stir in about 1 tablespoon of lard if using.
Slice the tongue and return it to the sauce just long enough to heat through.
Serve the onion sauce with pasta as a first course, followed by the sliced tongue as the main dish, or simply serve everything together.
Any leftover tongue is also excellent pressed and served cold.
Variations
Some Sicilian cooks add fresh peas during the final stages of cooking. Others include slices of tongue in the pasta sauce, making the first course even more substantial.
However you serve it, the true star of Carne Aglassata is the sweet, slow-cooked onion sauce that gives the dish its distinctive glaze.
Carne Aglassata is a classic Sicilian braise where ox tongue slowly cooks with onions until they become a rich, glossy sauce perfect for pasta and meat.