Edible Fresco Cake inspired by Rome’s Villa Livia and Villa Farnesina
Edible fresco cake is an unexpected subject for my blog, yet this exquisite creation harmonises food, art, memories and a celebration in an unforgettable manner.
Gluten-free edible fresco cake decorated with Roman-inspired imagery
A Cake to Admire
So, shall we eat the cake, or simply admire it a little longer?
This cake was made by a friend for a special 70th birthday celebration in Hobart. It was conceived, baked and decorated by Valerie Sparks for her husband Roger. Valerie is an artist whose work explores immersive spaces—frescoes, glasshouses, historic wallpapers and contemporary light installations. Therefore, it is no surprise that she approached this cake as both a cook and an artist.
Turning Images into Edible Art
To begin with, the decoration came from edible prints—sometimes called icing sheets or sugar sheets—made by a specialty cake shop. A digital image is adjusted for colour and size, and then printed with food-safe inks onto a thin sheet of starch or sugar paste (in this case, gluten-free). As a result, once applied to a smooth iced surface, the image becomes part of the cake, almost like a transferred fresco.
Detail inspired by the frescoes of Villa Livia
Valerie collected the printed image and applied it to a well-chilled, buttercream-frosted cake. Meanwhile, the cake itself was built from several layers of the same size, baked over a few days and assembled with buttercream. Following the instructions carefully, she smoothed the edible sheet from the centre outwards to avoid air bubbles. Finally, she finished it with a border so that the image blended naturally into the design.
The Flavours
In addition, the cake was gluten-free, made with flour, eggs, sugar, butter, lemon zest and almond meal. Consequently, it had a light texture, gently perfumed with citrus and enriched by the almonds. The lemon butter icing—made with butter, icing sugar and fresh lemon juice—added a soft sweetness. At the same time, it provided a clean, sharp note of acidity that balanced the flavours beautifully.
Inspiration from Rome
Not surprisingly, Rome is one of Valerie and Roger’s favourite cities. During their travels, they were deeply taken by the frescoes of the Villa of Livia and the Villa Farnesina.
The Garden of the Villa of Livia
Roger, sitting in the room in Villa Livia surrounded by the frescoes
At the Villa of Livia, the frescoes—now preserved in the Palazzo Massimo alle Terme—once surrounded an underground dining room with a painted garden. In fact, trees heavy with fruit, flowering plants and birds create the illusion of a space open to the air, suggesting an eternal spring.
Fresco of lush garden with fruit trees and birds
Often interpreted as a symbol of abundance, fertility, and cultivated order, the garden may also carry subtle political meaning, reflecting the peace and prosperity associated with Augustus’ reign.
These images were used to decorate the sides of the fresco cake.
These works belonged to Livia Drusilla, wife of Augustus, a powerful and influential woman and the villa served as her country residence.
Livia Drusilla Claudia (59 BC – AD 29) was the daughter of a senator. She married Tiberius Claudius Nero around 43 BC (they had two sons, Tiberius and Drusus), but they divorced in 38 BC to marry Octavian, Julius Caesar’s adopted son and heir. Octavian became the first Roman emperor in 27 BC, known as Augustus, and Livia became the Roman empress. Livia and Augustus were married for over fifty years, and she was a trusted advisor to Augustus. Her son Tiberius became emperor in AD 14 after Augustus.
The Myth and Movement of Villa Farnesina
By contrast, the mood at the Villa Farnesina changes. The frescoes designed by Raphael and his workshop tell the story of Cupid and Psyche. Here, there is movement, lightness and grace. In particular, the doves—sacred to Venus—gently draw her chariot. As a result, they bring a softness to the scenes and remind us that even in myth, tenderness, love, grace and beauty have a place.
Doves are a recurring motif in Raphael’s frescoes at Villa Farnesina, notably in the depiction of doves pulling Venus’ chariot.Venus and her chariot pulled by doves
A Cake to Remember
Ultimately, this edible fresco cake brought together the stillness of a painted garden, the history and myths, the pleasure of sharing food at this celebration and Valerie’s skills . Although the cake was intended to be consumed, it also invited us to pause and observe—as we might before a fresco—before it was enjoyed further.
When I was asked to share an Easter recipe for SBS Italian Radio, I immediately chose cassata Siciliana — a dessert that truly represents Sicily, its history, flavours, and identity.
For the occasion, I prepared the recipe along with some notes in Italian to accompany the radio discussion, aiming to convey not just the steps, but also the cultural meaning behind this traditional dessert.
In this post, I have also included some photos of the cassata being made. These are not on the SBS website, but they help to show the process more clearly.
The remainder of the post is in Italian and I was interviewed by Massimiliano Gugole from SBS Radio Italian.
IN ITALIAN
Quando mi è stato chiesto di condividere una ricetta di Pasqua per SBS Italian Radio, ho scelto subito la cassata siciliana — un dolce che rappresenta bene la Sicilia sapori — la sua storia, i suoi sapori e la sua identità.
Per l’occasione ho preparato la ricetta e alcune note in italiano per accompagnare la conversazione in radio, cercando di trasmettere non solo i passaggi, ma anche il significato culturale di questo dolce tradizionale
In questo post ho aggiunto anche alcune foto della preparazione della cassata. Non sono presenti sul sito di SBS, ma aiutano a vedere meglio i passaggi.
****If you would like to listen to the interview and discussion in Italian on SBS Radio, here is the link:
La cassata siciliana, nella ricetta di Marisa Raniolo Wilkins
La cassata siciliana è uno dei dolci più rappresentativi della Sicilia, soprattutto nel periodo di Pasqua. È un dolce ricco, scenografico, che racchiude storia, cultura e tradizione.
La cassata è un’opera culinaria che testimonia secoli di storia.Dalle influenze fenicie, che introdussero le mandorle, all’apporto arabo, che portò zucchero, frutta secca, marzapane e agrumi, e al contributo spagnolo, che portò il pan di Spagna. I monsù, cuochi francesi al servizio delle famiglie aristocratiche siciliane, ne perfezionarono la presentazione, mentre le suore nei conventi custodirono e tramandarono le ricette tradizionali.
Alla base troviamo il pan di Spagna, soffice e leggermente inumidito con un liquore.
Il cuore della cassata è la ricotta, preferibilmente di pecora, lavorata con zucchero fino a diventare una crema liscia e delicata.’è un gesto semplice, ma molto significativo, che appartiene alla tradizione della cassata: la ricotta non si mescola soltanto — si passa al setaccio.
Alla ricotta si aggiungono piccoli pezzi di cioccolato fondente, pistacchi e scorze di agrumi canditi.
Il dolce viene poi assemblato in uno stampo: il pan di Spagna riveste base e lati, si riempie con la crema di ricotta, si chiude e si lascia riposare in frigorifero per una notte.
Il giorno dopo si sforma e si ricopre con la pasta reale/il marzapane, spesso di colore verde chiaro, e si decora con frutta candita.
La cassata, in tutte le sue varianti, `e un emblema di celebrazione. Le pasticcerie siciliane sono rinomate per la loro maestria nella preparazione e decorazione delle cassate.
Cassata Siciliana — Ricetta Tradizionale
Consigli:
La cassata si prepara al meglio in due giorni. Si assembla il dolce il giorno prima e si lascia riposare in frigorifero per tutta la notte affinché si compatti. Anche il pan di Spagna beneficia di essere preparato in anticipo.
Note sugli Ingredienti
Ricotta
Usare ricotta soda e ben scolata, preferibilmente di pecora, naturalmente più dolce e saporita.
Spesso viene venduta in forme intere e tagliata al momento — questa è la migliore.
Evitare la ricotta confezionata in vaschetta, generalmente troppo acquosa e poco saporita. Se non avete alternative, è consigliabile scolarla per tutta la notte.
Per un ripieno più ricco, si può aggiungere un po’ di panna densa durante la lavorazione.
Frutta Candita
La frutta candita è conservata in uno sciroppo zuccherino che ne mantiene la morbidezza e ne intensifica il sapore. (Si chiama anche glacé)
Se possibile, utilizzare scorze di agrumi canditi di buona qualità oppure fette intere di arancia candita, invece della comune frutta candita mista.
Il cedro ha un ruolo importante nella pasticceria siciliana. Coltivato in Sicilia e in Calabria, si riconosce per la buccia spessa, dal verde al giallo.
Il pan di SpagnaIl ripieno – ricotta, zucchero, cioccolato , pistacchi, scorze d’agrumi canditeIl pan di Spagna tagliato in quattro strati. Il marzapane steso tra due pellicoleIl marzapane, di due colori – naturale e verde. La confettura per attaccare il pan di Spagna
PREPARAZIONE DELLO STAMPO
Lo stampo foderato, il pan di Spagna -uno stato di sotto, e due strati per rivestire i lati. L’ultimo strato di sopra per coprire il ripieno.L’ultimo strato di pan di Spagna per coprire il ripienoCon un peso di sopraLa cassata sformata è ricoperta da una glassa di marzapane. La confettura viene utilizzata per facilitare l’adesione del marzapane al pan di SpagnaQuadretti del marzapane verde per l’applicazione sui latiQuasi!Eccola!
**Sul blog All Things Sicilian And More ci sono parecchi post della Cassata con altre foto, ma scritte in Inglese.
Come la maggior parte delle ricette italiane, le quantità degli ingredienti non contano davvero. I cuochi si affidano al gusto, all’occhio e al tatto.
Ripieno di Ricotta
700 g – 800g ricotta fresca (preferibilmente di pecora)
120 g zucchero semolato
60–100 g cioccolato fondente, tritato
100 g pistacchi, tritati
60–100 g scorze di agrumi canditi (arancia, limone, cedro)
¼ cucchiaino vaniglia (o pasta di vaniglia)
¼ cucchiaino cannella
Per Assemblare
Circa 450 g pan di Spagna, fatto in casa (questo il peso quando acquistato nei negozi commerciali
Pasta reale (marzapane) per copertura
Frutta candita per decorare
½ tazza (o più) di confettura di albicocche
½–¾ tazza di liquore (o più, a piacere)
Pan di Spagna
Preparare 1–3 giorni prima.
Ingredienti
5 uova
120 g zucchero
100 g farina setacciata
Scorza di limone e/o vaniglia
Burro per lo stampo
Procedimento
Montare i tuorli con lo zucchero fino a ottenere un composto chiaro e cremoso.
Montare gli albumi a neve ferma.
Incorporare delicatamente gli albumi al composto di tuorli.
Unire la farina setacciata e gli aromi.
Versare in uno stampo imburrato e cuocere a forno moderato per circa 40 minuti, fino a doratura.
Lasciare raffreddare completamente prima di tagliare.
Ripieno di Ricotta
Lavorare la ricotta con lo zucchero fino a ottenere una crema liscia. (In alternativa, sciogliere lo zucchero in poca acqua per ottenere uno sciroppo, lasciarlo raffreddare e poi unirlo alla ricotta
Aggiungere:
vaniglia
cannella
un goccio di liquore (facoltativo)
Incorporare:
cioccolato
pistacchi
frutta candita
Mescolare delicatamente.
Pasta Reale (Marzapane)
Ingredienti
500 g mandorle pelate e macinate finemente
300 g zucchero a velo
1 albume
Vaniglia q.b.
Un pizzico di sale
Qualche goccia di colorante verde
Procedimento
Montare leggermente l’albume con il sale fino a renderlo spumoso.
Aggiungere la vaniglia.
Incorporare gradualmente mandorle e zucchero, impastando fino a ottenere un composto liscio ed elastico.
Regolare la consistenza:
aggiungere mandorle o zucchero se troppo morbido
aggiungere poca acqua se troppo duro
Avvolgere nella pellicola e conservare in frigorifero.
Quando sarete pronti per coprire la cassata:
Facoltativo:
Dividere in due parti e colorarne una di verde, oppure è decorato a larghe strisce verdi e del colore naturale del marzapane.
Stendere il marzapane tra due fogli di carta da forno.
Preparazione dello Stampo
Foderare uno stampo rotondo (da 25–30 cm) con pellicola o alluminio.
Tagliare il pan di Spagna in 4 strati.
Rivestire anche i lati dello stampo con le fette di pan di Spagna, utilizzando confettura se necessario per fissarle.
Assemblaggio della Cassata
Disporre uno strato sul fondo e spennellare leggermente con confettura di albicocche.
Inumidire con un po’ di liquore.
Riempire lo stampo con il composto di ricotta e livellare.
Coprire con l’ultimo strato di pan di Spagna.
Inumidire leggermente con liquore.
Coprire e porre un leggero peso sopra.
Mettere in frigorifero per tutta la notte.
Copertura e Decorazione
(Da fare il giorno del servizio)
Sformare la cassata.
Spalmare uno strato sottile di confettura di albicocche.
Coprire con la pasta reale stesa.
Decorare con frutta candita.
Mantenere in frigorifero fino al momento dell’uso.
Easter in Sicily is one of the most significant celebrations of the year, where faith, spring , history and culinary traditions converge. And among them, Cassata stands out — not just as a dessert, but as a reflection of Sicily itself: rich, layered, and shaped by many cultural histories.
Ornate cart wheeled through the streets for Processions.
Renowned for its deeply rooted Sicilian Easter customs, the island commemorates Holy Week with solemn processions, ancient rituals.
HOLY WEEK
The Easter period begins with Holy Week, from Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday, when towns and cities across Sicily are marked by devotion and tradition. Churches fill with incense, music and prayer, while the streets become the stage for solemn processions that have been passed down through generations.
In Enna, celebrations continue even in the week following Easter.
Catania, Santa Agata, lit up .
On Good Friday in particular, statues depicting scenes from the Passion of Christ are carried slowly through ancient streets.
Ancient Rituals and Easter Processions in Sicily
Many of these Easter customs are not only religious but also historical, with origins that may reach further back than Christianity itself.
The religious celebrations continue in the hill town of Enna, one of Sicily’s most renowned Easter centres.
These are photos ‘Albis’ Sunday. celebrated the following Sunday after Easter Sunday. The processions, consist of all-male groups of various ages and sodalities or confraternities from different churches or fellowships. The procession travelled from Piazza Mazzini to the nearby Lombard castle in Enna.
These processions, often accompanied by confraternities in traditional dress, create an atmosphere that is both deeply spiritual and visually striking.
Processions move slowly through the town of Enna.
A priest blesses the surrounding fields during the celebrations, invoking good harvests and favourable weather. This ritual reflects an enduring connection to the land and echoes ancient agricultural traditions.
The Blessing of the fields.
One of the most striking is the procession of fifteen religious confraternities, each wearing distinctive robes and carrying sacred statues.
Processions move slowly through the town of Enna.
These brotherhoods date from the 15th to 17th centuries, reflecting the strong influence of Spanish rule on Sicilian religious life.
one of the Confraternities.
EASTER SUNDAY AND THE ARRIVAL OF SPRING
After the solemnity of Holy Week, Easter Sunday brings a sense of release and joy. It commemorates the Resurrection of Christ, but it also coincides with the arrival of spring — a season that has always held deep meaning in Sicily.
As winter recedes, the landscape begins to change. Trees bud, flowers appear and the days grow longer. This natural renewal reinforces the deeper symbolism of Easter as a time of rebirth, hope and continuity.
Cassata Siciliana: A SYMBOL OF EASTER AND CULTURAL HISTORY
Easter foods in Sicily are never incidental; they carry memory, history and meaning. Among them, Cassata Siciliana stands as the most iconic — not simply a dessert, but a reflection of the island itself: layered, complex and shaped by many cultures.
With its sponge, sweetened ricotta, candied fruit and marzipan, cassata tells a story of Sicily’s past. Arab influences introduced sugar, citrus and the art of candying fruit. The name cassata may derive from the Arabic word qas’ah, meaning a bowl or basin, referring to the mould used to shape the cake.
The sponge — pan di Spagna — points to Spanish connections. Later, French-trained chefs called monsù refined the dessert in aristocratic kitchens adding elegance and structure. Convent kitchens also played an important role, especially in the development of almond-based sweets and marzipan.
Nuns in Convents also contributed greatly to the development of Sicilian Pastries, especially those made with almonds and Marzipan.
Cassata, as we know it today, is the result of all these influences coming together.
PASTICCERIE (pastry shops)
It is also a cake that reflects Sicily’s love of colour, sweetness and elaborate presentation.
For this reason, cassata is rarely made at home in Sicily. It is usually the work of skilled pasticceri, many working in historic pastry shops that have preserved these techniques over generations. Like many elaborate Italian desserts, it is often left to those who have mastered the craft.
The result is a dessert that is both theatrical and deeply rooted in Sicilian tradition. The classic Sicilian cassata is an eye-catching, baroque-style cake, usually decorated with colourful glacé fruits and candied citrus peel.
The Other Forms of Cassata
There are other versions of cassata.
Cassata gelata – a frozen dessert made with ricotta and sponge cake
Cassata al forno – a baked pastry filled with sweetened ricotta
Cassata al forno is very much like a Baked Ricotta Cheese Cake.
Cassata at Home
While the traditional cassata may appear elaborate, its essence is simple — good ricotta, balanced sweetness and careful assembly. Making it at home is less about perfect decoration and more about understanding these elements and respecting their origins.
Over the years I have made several homemade cassate, sometimes decorating them with green marzipan and sometimes with a mixture of almond and pistachio marzipan.
CASSATA EXPLAINED
The classic Sicilian cassata is made of three main parts. First, there’s a soft sponge cake, often moistened with a splash of liqueur and used to line the mould.
Sponge cake cut into sections to assemble the cassata.
Inside is a rich, sweetened ricotta filling, made with sheep’s milk (sweeter than cow’s milk) and mixed with small pieces of candied citrus and dark chocolate.
The ricotta filling – the centre of the cassata.
Finally, the entire cake is covered with a layer of green marzipan or glassa a smooth glaze of sugar icing, then decorated with intricate patterns and colourful candied fruits.
HERE ARE Simpler and Deconstructed Versions of CASSATA
While the traditional cassata is a spectacular dessert, it is also labour-intensive.
Tastes change, and many people today prefer desserts that are lighter and less elaborate.
For this reason I often prepare simplified versions that use the same classic ingredients — ricotta, sponge, almonds and citrus — but in a more relaxed form.
One example is a deconstructed cassata, where the familiar flavours are layered in glasses rather than assembled as a formal cake. Sometimes I add fresh strawberries, which complement the ricotta beautifully.
These variations retain the essence of cassata while eliminating the complexities of traditional preparation.
Marzipan Leaves Recipe
To garnish these desserts I often prepare simple marzipan leaves, a playful reference to the decorative marzipan traditionally used on cassata.
Ingredients
100 g blanched almond meal
100 g icing sugar
1 egg white
¼ tsp vanilla extract
1 drop green food colouring
Method
Combine all ingredients and knead until smooth. If the mixture is too soft, add a little more almond meal or icing sugar.
Roll the marzipan thinly between sheets of baking paper and cut into leaf shapes.
Reimagining Cassata — Less Formal
These simplified desserts reinterpret cassata in a relaxed way. They retain the characteristic flavours of ricotta, almonds and citrus while being quicker to prepare.
Layered Cassata in a Glass
Place one or two Savoiardi biscuits or sponge cake in the bottom of a glass and lightly brush with Cointreau.
Add a layer of sweetened ricotta mixture, then another layer of sponge or Savoiardi.
Finish with marzipan leaves.
EVEN Simpler
Spoon generous layers of ricotta mixture into large wine glasses.
Add marzipan leaves and one or two dry Savoiardi biscuits that can be used to scoop up the ricotta. Serve the Cointreau separately.
Cassata on the Blog Since 2009
Cassata has appeared frequently on All Things Sicilian and More over the years. If you would like to explore further, here are some related posts:
This is how I found Manna in Sicily: In 2009, I stumbled upon something unexpected while wandering through the bustling market of Ortigia in Syracuse.
Concealed behind the stalls of local produce, including fruits, vegetables, meats, and fish, I discovered a diverse array of unfamiliar and curious ingredients. within a diminutive and captivating shop.
The shop was filled with sacks, boxes, unusual jars, and tins, each containing a treasure trove of smells and visual delights.
Among them was the most intriguing substance – Manna – the Manna I had only encountered mentioned in the Bible.
How entrancing to find that Manna is a crystalline resin, extracted from the bark of ash trees and it doesn’t rain down from heaven.
The shop, aptly named Il Mago Delle Spezie (The Wizard of Spices), was owned by Antonio Drago, a master of culinary alchemy (especially Sicilian) who was more than willing to chat about his aromatic collection. Drago’s offerings showcased an array of local, ancient produce and exotic spices, many originating from distant lands.
My encounter with Antonio Drago left a lasting impression; he was full of stories about the origins of local food and ancient methods.
So, after all this time why am I writing about manna?
A friend recently shared an article from the BBC discussing the revival of manna harvesting in Sicily, and suddenly, memories of that magical shop in Ortigia came flooding back. I remembered discovering this ancient “superfood” and the curious wizard who introduced me to it. As I read about how Manna is now being harvested again in the Madonie mountains, I reflected on my first encounter with this biblical ingredient in that small, mysterious shop that sparked a deeper curiosity about its place in Sicily’s rich, culinary heritage.
There are a number of recipes on the web written in Italian that utilise this ingredient in the place of sugar in cakes, biscuits, beverages, creams and ice cream. it is also a product that is beneficial for the skin.
I looked up Antonio Drago and found a reference on the net, written in Italian about his business and how with the help of his two sons it evolved into bigger premises. Here is what I found:
Antonio Drago’s Journey: From Spice Shop to Culinary Haven
This is a summary and translation of the text. In some places, I have purposely retained some of the illustrative, fanciful language.
In the heart of Syracuse, nestled near the historic market of Ortigia, you’ll find “Drogheria Drago con cucina” at Via Benedictis 20. This charming establishment has evolved since its founding in October 1972, under the rising moon and the alignment of Mercury, Mars, and Jupiter. It was born under the protection of Mercury, the patron of merchants, and the success driven by the combative spirit of Mars.
Originally, the small shop was focused on selling “colonial” goods – ancient, traditional local home-made produce as well as imported spices, herbs, and aromas. Over time, the store expanded to include a variety of local agricultural and fishing products: sun-dried Pachino tomato paste, Trapani salt-cured capers, Avola almonds, Etna pistachios, tuna and swordfish bottarga, and red tuna and mackerel fillets preserved in oil or salted.
Antonio’s two sons – Luciano and Francesco – grew up and eagerly joined the venture. They decided to renovate the space and add a kitchen for preparing and serving local dishes. Thus, “Drogheria Drago con cucina” where customers can enjoy traditional dishes alongside a wide selection of spices, local products, and specialties from the region.
Manna: A Biblical Superfood Revived in Sicily. A summary of the BBC article
Manna is mentioned 17 times in the Bible. It turns out to be an ancient resin harvested from ash trees, traditionally found in the Mediterranean. Once a key part of the local economy, manna harvesting almost vanished with urbanisation and industrialisation over the past 80 years. But today, a revival is underway.
Manna is collected from the bark of Fraxinus ornus trees, where thick lines of the white, mineral-rich resin ooze. It has a honey-like sweetness with almond undertones, and it was once used as a natural sweetener, medicinal aid, and even a form of currency. Despite its decline, Sicilian farmer Giulio Gelardi has been at the forefront of its revival, dedicating himself to bringing this ancient “superfood” back to tables around the world.
In the Madonie mountains, Gelardi has spent decades perfecting the art of manna harvesting, a process that involves precise observation and intuition. Manna is not only a sweet treat but also a powerful medicinal substance, used for a variety of ailments like constipation and sore throats, and it has become an important ingredient in modern Sicilian cuisine.
Today, manna is gaining recognition globally, used by chefs in innovative dishes and even in high-end skincare products. Thanks to the efforts of people like Gelardi, this once-forgotten food is now a prized ingredient, celebrated for its taste, health benefits, and cultural significance.
Here is a simple recipe to make a Ricotta Ice Cream using Manna as the sweetener. Obviously, I have not found Manna to make this.
Beat 5 egg yolks till creamy. Add 300 g of ricotta sifted with a fork, a dash of brandy or rum and half a glass of milk in which you will have dissolved about 60g of manna. Finally pour the mixture into the ice cream maker.
Rather than brandy or rum, I would probably add an orange based liqueur (or one of your choice). This would add flavour, but also sugar and make it sweeter.
I’ve made the classic famous Zuppa Inglese countless times, and it’s one of those desserts that’s surprisingly easy to prepare while still managing to impress. When I’m pressed for time or in need of a transportable dessert that guarantees satisfaction and admiration, Zuppa Inglese never lets me down.
I first shared this recipe back on October 10, 2010, and it feels just as relevant today —maybe even more so. It is the Italian alternative to the English trifle.With its rich layers of sponge fingers, egg custard, and the perfect hint of the ancient Florentine liqueur called Alchermes, it’s the ideal dessert for any celebration. Zuppa Inglese never goes out of style!
You may need to use the internet to source Alchermes, but it is worth making it with the traditional liquer that is used for cakes. The savoiardi sponge fingers are moistened with Alchermes and it is usually diluted with a little water. I don’t usually do this. Maybe this is why everyone likes it so much!
Gelo Di Melone is pureed watermelon thickened with a little corn flour or rice flour with the addition of some rose water, vanilla and a little sugar. Once made and poured into the mould to set, I add little jewels of colour and flavours on top – chopped dark chocolate, candied citron and roasted pistachio nuts. This is the basic, traditional recipe. Arab influenced? Except for the chocolate, I think so.
But chocolate is also made in Sicily and those who have been to Modica may be familiar with the Antica Dolceria Bonajutowhere chocolate is made using the original methods in the style of the Aztecs and brought by the Spaniards in the 16th century – the Spaniards ruled Sicily at various times and foods from the “New World” (including cocoa beans) were introduced.
Gelo Di Melone is very simple to make, but it takes time to get the flavours right. Why?
The answer is simple. It all depends on the flavour of the melone (watermelon).
The puree is thickened with a little flour and stirred on heat like a custard. This time I used rice flour and I stirred it through a little melon puree to make sure it was not lumpy.
Add a little rosewater, vanilla essence and a little sugar, but then you have to taste it. Is it sweet enough? Does it need more rosewater? Shall I add a little lemon juice to lift the flavour?
Once you have decided that you like the taste, you could then experiment with the recipe. For example I like to add roasted almonds through the thickened mix, a little cinnamon can also be good and if I have run out of citron peel, good quality orange peel does the trick.
On occasions instead of rosewater I have used rose liqueur or violet liqueur. This is strictly not the traditional recipe, but if I am not making it for Sicilians I feel comfortable to experiment. And I have fun doing it.
I prefer to present the Gelo di Melone in little glass bowls, however, it doesn’t look bad in a large bowl and it takes up less room in the fridge.
The black bowl below is made of glass.
Once decorated they taste and look even more stunning.
This year, the only traditional Christmas dish I’ll be eating is Zelten, a typical sweet, fruit and nut bread/cake of the Trentino-Alto Adige region of Italy.
I have never made traditional dishes for Christmas obligatory and my menu choices depend on the people I am sharing Christmas with. Last year it was fresh seafood – oysters, prawns and crayfish – simply served and delicious.
This year main course is likely to be duck with cherries marinated in grappa. What comes before and after is to be yet decided.
When my parents were alive, our family Christmas meal was likely to be a combination of offerings from Sicily and Trieste, either a caponata or an insalata russa for the finger food, a good brodo with tortellini for firsts, while the second course varied from year to year, and perhaps there was a cassata or a zuppa inglese for dessert.
Fish on Christmas eve was obligatory, but there was never a set Christmas menu, as there tends to be in many Australian or Italian households.
You won’t find me cooking turkey because it is too much like chicken, for me. As for dessert – I am not a fan of Christmas pudding and the only parts of pavlova I like are the berries and cream. I have made too many cassate (plural of cassata) and panforte on too many occasions to repeat making these or to appreciate them as I once did at Christmas. Panforte now made with so many different ingredients in Australia has become far too common and so removed from the Italian regional recipes, steeped in cultural traditions.
This year, Zelten will be my only traditional sweet.
I’ve looked at numerous recipes and background information about Zelten and found that there are many variations in the recipes. Zelten began from humble beginnings, a bread dough enriched with the typical local dry fruit and spices, the quantity and quality of fruit being poor in some areas (as in Trentino) and extravagant in others (as in Balzano).
The numerous recipes I read varied greatly. For example, walnuts are the principal nut used in all the recipes, but some variations contain almonds and/or hazelnuts/ pine nuts. Apart from figs and dried grapes, there are recipes with dates and/or unspecified dried fruit. To me using dates and mixed fruit do not sound typical of Tyrol.
All recipes include flour, either wheat or rye (some use very little flour, other recipe have large amounts of dough, some use bread dough). There are varying amounts of eggs, butter, sugar, yeast, milk or none of these. The fruit can be steeped in rum, but some recipes specify grappa, so as you can see the recipes vary greatly and some are much more modern.
I can understand the many variations of Zelten in Tyrol and why the recipes differ from family to family and location. Tyrol (German: Tirol) is historically a multi-national region located in the heart of the Alps of Austria and Italy. It is segmented by the compass into North, East and South Tyrol. North and East Tyrol lie in Austria and South Tyrol is in Italy, it is also known as Südtirol or Alto Adige). Bolzano, is the capital.
I was in this stunningly beaiutiful and fascinating region of Italy two years ago and enjoyed its many special features: the remarkable scenery especially in the Italian Alps and the Dolomites with their extraordinary mountainous and rocky peaks, the distinct architecture of cities and ancient villages where people speak German or Austro-Bavarian-German and Italian, and obviously, the culinary delights that reflect these cultures.
Zelten comes from the German selten and it means sometimes/on occasions, and as the name indicates it was only prepared on special occasions like Christmas, in winter with only dried fruit and nuts available.
I finally settled on making a version of a Zelten from South Tyrol and Bolzano, characterized by of large amounts of fruit – mainly figs and a selection of other dried fruit, pine nuts and almonds. I conducted some research into the fruit that is grown in the region and omitted apricots, peaches or plums because these stone fruits are more recent additions to the orchards. I used dried apples, pears, sultanas, strawberries (there are wild strawberries in the woods), a few dried plums and only a little orange peel as I did not imagine citrus to be very common in the area but would add to the flavour.
I chose grappa rather than rum, and plenty of it to soak the fruit and to moisten the cake once it was made.
I used no butter, eggs, milk or yeast and I used rye flour because wheat does not grow well in wet and cold climates. I used honey and not sugar.
I divided the mixture and baked two round cakes.
Eventually, I combined a couple of recipes and came up with:
750g dried fruit – 400g were figs, the rest as described above
350g nuts – 120g walnuts, the remainder almonds and pine nuts
200g honey
grappa – about ½ litre to soak the fruit and another ½ litre to soak into the baked cake
ground cinnamon, cloves, grated lemon peel
rye flour
I combined coarsely cut fruit and chopped nuts in a large container with a cover, added the grappa and left it for four days, stirring it occasionally.
I added the honey and spices and gradually mixed in as much rye flour as it would absorb. The principal recipe suggested to use 5% of the total weight of the ingredients, I calculated this to be about 230g. I mixed a teaspoon of baking powder to the flour as the only leavening, there was no leavening mentioned in the recipes that I sighted that used rye flour.
I lined two round baking tins with brown paper and baking paper. The recipe did not specify heat or time, but I baked them at 200 degrees for 60 minutes. Although my cakes are round, my understanding is that in different parts of Tyrol oval or heart shapes are also common.
I wrapped the cakes in calico (pudding cloth) and I have been dousing it with more grappa daily.
I took a cake to friends last night and we cut it. It is heavy, not sweet and steeped in grappa. It does taste good.
Back goes the calico wrapping. With all that alcohol and fortress – like wrapping, the Zelten will last for a long time.
Grappa is made with grape skins. The wines and grappa from this region is unique.
One of my readers has asked for this recipe and because she does not seem to be very familiar with the English language, I am providing a screen shot of the recipe from one of my books about La Cucina Triestina.
Trieste, Ponte Rosso
It is from this book:
The recipe is for Putiza. It is described as a Panettone ripieno (filled).
Putiza is called Potica in Slovenia.
It is a delicious, rich, yeast bread dough stuffed with walnuts, chocolate, pine nuts and sultanas soaked in rum. It can be made at home, but is easily found in many pastry shops especially during Easter and Christmas.
There are no photos in the book, but this is what it looks like:
My last surviving aunt, Zia Licia, died last week. She died in Adelaide and the funeral was a couple of days ago, but because I live in Melbourne I was unable to attend.
I was visiting friends in Pambula, on the south coast of NSW when my brother rang last week to give me the news about Zia’s death and since her death, I have been remembering many things.
Zia Licia was from Trieste and was married to my mother’s brother, Pippo.
My mother’s family moved to Trieste from Catania, Sicily, when my mother was five years old. She lived in Trieste till my father, mother and I come to Australia. I was eight years old but my memories remain strong.
I consider myself very lucky to have roots in Trieste, Sicily and Australia.
Just like my Sicilian aunts, Zia Licia liked to cook.
When we came to Adelaide we shared a house for a while with my Zia Licia and her husband, Zio Pippo.
My mum did not cook much in Trieste, my parents went out to eat or Zia Renata, my other aunt in Trieste would often cook.
When we came to Australia, mum and Zia Licia cooked together. It was a form of entertainment… what else could you do in a new country when things were so different? Of course my uncle also enjoyed cooking and because he worked on weekdays, he joined in on weekends. There were the three of them on a Sunday morning cooking up new things for the guests we often invited for Sunday lunch. Those lunches were special, and I was required to help in the kitchen.
Maybe that is where my love of cooking comes from?
My Zia Licia had a good sense of humour and a way of laughing that brought fun into any situation; as expected we all laughed a lot during these cooking sessions.
One of the very first things that I can remember really enjoying was the making of Fritole (Frittole in Italian, from fritto, fried).
So what are they?
Fritole are fragrant and flavourful balls of sweet dough. Once fried they are coated in granulated sugar (and cinnamon, optional); the spoonfuls of batter were once most likely fried in lard but in recent years, olive oil. Some may use vegetable oil but I think that olive oil has a special fragrance that enhances the taste of Fritole.
The batter is made with flour, yeast, milk, eggs, sugar, lemon zest, raisins or sultanas soaked in sufficient dark rum (sometimes in grappa) to rehydrate the raisins. In most recipes pine nuts are also added, but not always.
Frìtole are also a well established sweet in Venezia, especially during the Carnevale. The Venice Carnivale takes place each year in February. It begins around two weeks before Ash Wednesday and ends on Shrove Tuesday, also known as Fat Tuesday(Mardi Gras in French or Martedi Grasso in Italian).
Trieste and Venice are neighbours, so sharing this recipe is not surprising, but in Trieste Fritole are popular at Christmas time. Bakeries, pastry shops and Christmas street markets all have Fritole and they are also made at home.
We had no recipe for Fritole, so we relied heavily on Zia Licia’s memory of making Fritole because Zia would have helped her mother make them in her Triestinian kitchen. Having eaten them very frequently in Trieste we also relied on our collective memories of how Fritole should look, taste, smell and feel…and always eaten warm and fragrant – so important when it comes to reproducing recipes.
I cannot remember how the adults felt about the Fritole, but I remember enjoying them very much as a child.
In those days we did not add pine nuts to our Fritole; we had no access to them and it was a nut not familiar in Australia at that time.
I found various recipes for Fritole in the large number of books about the cooking of Trieste (in Friuli Venezia Giulia) and in the Veneto regions of northern Italy and the recipe below is probably the closest to what we would have made. The instructions in the ancient Italian recipe I’ve chosen, are not very specific because it is assumed that cooks would know what steps to follow, so I will spell them out.
To the above, add a little salt to the batter. If you wish to use dry yeast, 10g should be sufficient. As for the milk , you will need at least 2 cups, but maybe more – the mixture should be like a thick batter.
Place the raisins or sultanas in a small bowl and pour some dark rum or grappa over them (to cover). Set aside for a few hours or overnight.
Place about a cup of warm milk in a mixing bowl and sprinkle in the yeast. Mix well to incorporate the yeast into the milk. Add about half of the flour and mix it in gently. Cover the bowl with a cloth and set aside to rest for half an hour. The mixture will bubble as the yeast activates.
Drain the raisins or sultanas and reserve any rum in a small bowl. Toss them around in a little flour to coat lightly; this will prevent them from sinking to the bottom of the Fritole as they fry.
When the yeast mixture has risen, use a wooden spoon or spatula to incorporate all the ingredients – the remaining flour, raisins sugar, egg, lemon zest, rum and pine nuts (if using). Add more warm milk as necessary to ensure that the mixture is like a thick batter. Cover the bowl with cloth again and set aside in a warm and draft-free area for at least 30-45 minutes to rest – it should double in size and the batter should be bubbly and airy.
Use a heavy-bottomed pot to heat sufficient oil (for the batter to swim/float in). The oil needs to be hot. Use a spoon to carefully drop the batter into the hot oil. It is better to fry a few Fritole at the time and not overcrowd them in the pan.
Once fried, drain the Fritole with a slotted spoon or tongs and place them on paper towels to absorb any excess oil. Roll them in sugar and cinnamon.
In the last few days I have found myself bursting into old Triestinian songs…like Le Ragazze di Trieste and Trieste Mia. I will need to stop myself otherwise i will drive my partner mad!
I have returned to Trieste on many occasions and the photos of Trieste have been taken over a number of years .
It all started with my purchases at the Queen Victoria Market and the fabulous autumn fruit.
I love persimmons.
I also bought, feijoas, rhubarb, pomegranates and quinces. And then I saw some small pears and bought them too.
Friends were coming to dinner and I was unsure about what to make as a dessert.
I thought about making a fresh autumn fruit salad with walnuts, a persimmon crumble or the always a favourite, baked quinces. I then thought that the pears could be added towards the end of the baking of the quinces .
A chocolate budino rather than a chocolate sauce would go particularly well with the pears.
Budino
In 1957 when I came to Australia with my parents my mother used to make budino for dessert. Unlike my Australian friends who had some form of dessert every night (even if it was tinned fruit and ideal milk instead of cream), my Italian family finished off a meal with fresh fruit.
My father would have his small pairing knife and peel fruit for our little family. Desserts were for special occasions and Sunday lunch was considered special, even when we did not have guests.
Although the English translation for budino is pudding, it is nothing like any form of English pudding, whether steamed or baked.
Basically, budino is a thick custard, cooked on the stove and then allowed to set. We had no moulds, so my mother used to use a clear glass bowl. Our budino was two tone. She made two budini mixtures, one was vanilla and the other was chocolate. The slightly cooled vanilla budino was poured into the glass bowl first and once it was well on the way to setting it was topped with the slightly cooled chocolate budino. Sometimes she even managed to make some swirls. Later she started making apple strudel – Strucolo de pomi – rather than budino for guests.
When we lived in Trieste, if we were eating at home or had guests we always purchased pastries, as did my Sicilian relatives, but in Australia, we did not have access to the same range of pastry shops (we lived in Adelaide). Over time my mother taught herself how to make sweets of a higher standard and budino disappeared from her repertoire.
The budino as prepared by my mother was made of milk, corn flour, sugar, vanilla essence, butter or cream (to enrich it), and egg yolks. A bit like crème anglaise. Most of the recipes for budino do not include egg(s) and unlike many recipes for budino she did not heat the milk before making the custard. It all commenced in a thick bottom saucepan with cold ingredients.
It is dead easy to make and it tastes great.
The cream and butter enrich the budino and if you prefer a leaner version use less of each or just one.
Chocolate version of budino
3 cups pf whole milk and 1 cup of cream (4 cups = 1 litre)
2 tablespoons of butter, if using unsalted add a pinch of salt
1/3 to 1/2 cup sugar (depending on how sweet you like it)
2 tablespoons cocoa
1/4 cup corn flour
1-2 egg yolks
150g + dark chocolate, coarsely chopped (add more if you want a stronger taste)
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
In the saucepan, mix the egg yolk(s), sugar, corn starch and cocoa. Add a little milk and stir to make a paste. Pour in the milk, vanilla and cream and continue to mix, trying to prevent any lumps.
Place the pan with the ingredients on the stove and over medium-low heat keep on stirring until the mixture is thick like custard. Add the butter towards the end.
When it begins to cool, place in the bits of chocolate and stir gently. Some of it will melt into the budino. if you would like to taste firm chocolate, wait until the budino is cooler before you add the chocolate.
Pour into a mould (or bowl) and when the mixture is cool, cover it and place it in the fridge for a few hours or overnight, until completely chilled. If you do not want a skin to form on top, use some baking paper or butter wrapper and cover the surface.
Sometimes I pour the budino into individual small serving bowls or cups or glasses as I do with a mousse. If you are using a mould, the budino can be turned out onto a plate as I would do with a jelly.
Serve with a dollop of whipped cream.
Although budino was always presented plain in my childhood, berries and baked fruit is always a good accompaniment.
It keeps well for a few days.
Above, budino with poached rhubarb and apples. Below, with baked pear.
BIANCOMANGIARE and GELO
In Sicily, they make Biancomangiare (Blancmange).
it is also called Gelo. This too is thickened on the stove and set like a budino. It is simpler to make and much less rich.
