MAKING RICOTTA, Paneer or curd cheese

I think I have fallen in love with rich Jersey milk.

It is so easy to make the curds  to make ricotta.

All it takes is full cream milk and some lemon juice. The only other things you’ll need are a slotted spoon and a colander lined with cheese cloth (muslin) to strain the curds.

You may have a ricotta basket handy – if you buy ricotta it is often sold in a plastic basket and you can use it to drain the curds and shape the ricotta.

A slotted spoon will be handy to gently scoop out the curds.

Making ricotta is very simple.

I used 3 litres of milk, two lemons and 1/4 teaspoon of salt.

Bring the milk almost to a simmer on medium heat, add some salt and wait till little bubbles form close to the edge of the pot before you add the lemon juice; stir it in gently. The milk should separate into clumps of curds, and the whey will be thin and watery. If not enough of the milk has separated, reheat it and add a little bit more lemon juice and once again stir it gently. Once it has separated leave it undisturbed for about 10  minutes; stirring will make the curds dense.

Gently scoop out the curds with a slotted spoon – do not pour – into a large ricotta basket or a colander lined with cheese cloth that you have placed over a bowl to catch the whey.

A culinary specialty and a way of serving ricotta in Sicily (especially in the Ragusa region) is to ladle the curds with the whey into a bowl and to eat it with a spoon and bread.

** See post, A visit to Massaro,  link below.

How long you let the curds drain or how firmly you press them down will determine how solid the curds will be. If the curds are too solid you may need some whey to mix back into the curds. But if you think of how many recipes suggest that you drain the ricotta before using it for making cannoli, cassata, frittata, ravioli, baked ricotta, ricotta salata, scacce,  having firm ricotta is advantageous.

There are many recipes using ricotta on my blog that can easily be found by using the search button.

Traditionally, ricotta is made by heating the left-over whey from other cheese-making. The curds are worked to make and shape cheeses like mozzarella, trecce, fior di latte, bocconcini, and reheating the whey produces the fine-grained curd that traditionally makes ricotta – ri-cotta, translated as re-cooked/twice cooked. Usually more rich milk is added to the whey to make a full cream ricotta.

The curds can also be formed to make quark, cottage cheese and paneer. When I make paneer I do not add salt to the milk and I drain the curds or press them for longer.

however, the three links below are about making ricotta. The photo above is how ricotta is shaped and sold in Sicily .

SICILIAN CHEESE MAKING. A VISIT TO A MASSARO (farmer-cheese maker) IN RAGUSA. 

RICOTTA how to make it (using rennet)

RICOTTA and FRIED PEPPERS (Peperoni fritti). The Butter Factory at Myrtleford

The whey has many uses especially for baking. My partner bakes bread, flatbreads and cracker biscuits). I have not yet used whey for marinating meat, but I do braise pork in milk – a Bolognese specialty. The milk separates and forms a caramel when heated slowly at a low temperature for a few hours. I will write a recipe for this in my next post.

 

SPRING IN TUSCANY

There are four of us staying in Castiglione della Pescaia in the Maremma, Southern Tuscany, and for the first time, there is sunshine and some evidence of Spring.

We have enjoyed 6 cloudy, cool days in Tuscany so far and there is evidence of spring produce that I enjoyed cooking.

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Spring artichokes produce: artichokes, zucchini with blossoms attached and on the far right are bread beans.
Zucchini flowers ready for stuffing.
Spring asparagus.
The local shop that seem to stock all of the produce we ever needed.

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The local potter.
The magnificent bonsai olive tree.

Other produce that seem to be in Tuscany  no matter what season  was Boar (cinghiale).

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There were a wide range of Cinghiale salumi (smallgoods) in restaurants and produce stores.

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But there are many other old spring favourites. For example the buds of the wild garlic.  It is called Aglione. In Tuscany these tender shoots are considered a delicacy and are often cooked gently with olive oil, salt and tomato, or added to frittatas.

Aglione is a variety of giant Tuscan garlic (Allium ampeloprasum var. holmense), sometimes compared and called elephant garlic. It has a mild aroma and sweet flavour. The fiore dell’aglione refers to the long green stems and flowering tops (scapes) that are removed so the bulbs can grow larger.  Like the bulb itself, they have a delicate, slightly sweet flavour and are easy to digest

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These are fiore dell’aglione – the long green stems and flowering tops.

The makings of a frittata with the garlic flowers,  asparagus, zucchini flowers and baby zucchini:

Amazing bread:

 

Unfortunately it has rained again and my friends and I are doubly saddened by the weather and because of the devastating results of the Australian elections.

We bought sardines and collected wild herbs. I pan-fried the sardines. They cooked quickly and we had them with a squeeze of lemon.

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We  collected the wild herb called nepitella that grows in crevices and I added them to mushrooms.


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This was out antipasto. The ricotta and the cheese are made with a black coloured sheep specific to the Maremma region.

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We travelled to many parts of Tuscany during our nearly three week stay and ate extremely well in eateries, restaurants and home.

CASTAGNACCIO (A Tuscan sweetened bread made with chestnut flour)

STUFFED BAKED MUSHROOMS with Nepitella

A SAVOURY COEUR À LA CRÈME to accompany a summer fresh tomato salad or summer vegetables

It is summer and time to celebrate a good tomato.

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I like making tomato salads like my parents used to make – with tomatoes, celery, fresh onion, basil or oregano, salt and good extra virgin olive oil.

And as the mood takes me, I sometimes like to accompany a tomato salad with one of the following simple dairy trimmings, like: bocconcini or mozzarella,  treccia,  ricotta, straciatellaburrata or marinaded feta or a panna cotta made with feta or gorgonzola.

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Including the protein makes an excellent starter …..or as my parents did – eat a tomato salad with ricotta or bocconcini for lunch almost every day of summer.

I was in Gippsland yesterday and visited Bassine; they make a range of cheeses on the premises.

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I have been there before and have purchased various cheeses, but yesterday I came home with some quark and thought that would experiment and make a savoury coeur à la crème. 

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Coeur à la crème is usually served with berries but I thought that I could accompany my savoury coeur à la crème with a tomato salad. Alternatively roasted (or charred) peppers or  slow roasted baby tomatoes would also be great… or fried red peppers (peperonata) or lightly sautéed  zucchini and mint could be terrific…I could go on.

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You need muslin and a mold or container that allows drainage. I used a traditional ceramic, heart shape dish for making a coeur à la crème, but any container that is perforated with holes to drain off the excess moisture of the cheese or a colander can be used as an alternative.

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I used the following ingredients:

250 gm each quark, 1 cup of Greek yogurt, 100g of marinaded feta, fresh thyme leaves ground pink peppercorns, 1 peeled clove of garlic, ½ cup pf milk, ½ cup good quality olive oil.

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In a small sauce pan warm the milk over low heat. Remove from heat and let steep for 30 minutes and then strain out.

Combine cheeses and yogurt – you want the mixture fairly smooth so use a food processor or work it with a spoon.

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Add the thyme,  ground pink peppercorns and infused milk. 

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Line the mould with muslin (enough to cover the mold) and sprinkle with olive oil.

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Put cheese mixture into the mold, sprinkle with more olive oil and cover it with the left over muslin.

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Place the mold into a container or tray to catch the whey (liquid that drains away). Stand overnight in the fridge.

Carefully turn the mold out onto a serving plate.

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Serve with a tomato salad or anything thing else that catches your fancy.

Next time I make a ‘Coeur,’ I may try ricotta and herbs – no feta, no yogurt.

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Recipes of summer vegetables:

PEPERONATA – PIPIRONATA (Sicilian) Braised peppers

FRIED ZUCCHINI – ZUCCHINE FRITTE (Zucchini are called CUCUZZEDDI in Sicilian)

PUMARORU CA CIPUDDA (Tomatoes with onions). INSALATA DI POMODORO (Tomato salad)

PEPPERS WITH BREADCRUMBS- PIPI CA MUDDICA – PEPERONI CON LA MOLLICA

ANTIPASTO – GRILLED SUMMER VEGETABLES AND A SCOOP OF SALADS

BURRATA, MOZARELLA, STRACCIATELLA

Coeur a la Crème made with Labneh

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STUFFED BAKED FENNEL WITH PANGRATTATO – FINOCCHI RIPIENI

This is a recipe for a stuffed baked fennel. Breadcrumbs are called Pangrattato (grated bread) in Italian.

DEFINITION OF PAN GRATTATO and its use.

Mollica is the soft part of the bread with crusts removed but in the culinary world both pangrattato and mollica have acquired new significances and have been enhanced. Both refer to breadcrumbs lightly toasted in in olive oil, herbs and seasonings and variations include anything from garlic, red pepper flakes, pine nuts, anchovies, lemon zest , cinnamon or nutmeg, salt and a little sugar.

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Mollica or pangrattato adds texture, fragrance and complex flavours and is usually used as a stuffing or topping, especially for pasta in Calabria, Puglia and Sicily. For example,  Pasta con le Sarde and Sarde a Beccafico are two Sicilian recipes that use enhanced breadcrumbs:

When I make pangrattato I store left overs in a jar in my fridge and use it to enhance other dishes: this time I used it to stuff fennel.

STUFFED FENNEL RECIPE

I use Pangrattato to stuff fennel.

For moisture and extra flavour I added  a little ricotta and a little grated cheese – pecorino or parmigiano.

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 PROCESS

  1. Cut the stems off the fennel and remove the toughest and usually damaged outer leaves.
  2. Cut the fennel into quarters.
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  4. Cook the fennel in salted water, bay leaves salt and lemon juice for about 10 minutes until it is slightly softened. Remove it from the liquid and cool.
  5. Make the filling: Work the ricotta in a bowl with a fork, mix in the pangrattato and grated cheese.
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  7. Prise open the leaves of the fennel and stuff with the pangrattato stuffing.
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  9. Place the quarters into a baking bowl that allows them to stay compact and upright (like when you are cooking stuffed artichokes).
  10. Drizzle olive oil on top (or a little butter) and bake at 180 – 190°C for about 15 minutes
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SPAGHETTI with PRAWNS and ZUCCHINI

SPAGHETTI with ‘NDUJA, SQUID, VONGOLE AND PAN GRATTATO

PASTA CON LE SARDE – an iconic Sicilian recipe from Palermo. Cooked at Slow Food Festival Melbourne

PASTA CON SARDE – the baked version, Palermo, Sicily

SARDE A BECCAFICO (Sardines stuffed with currants, pine nuts, sugar and nutmeg)

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RICOTTA, TOMATOES and Basil. A perfect summer dish.

One of the things I like about eating out is that I come home full of ideas for reproducing my version of something I have eaten at a restaurant. Looking at the way that food is presented also gives me ideas.

This was a very simple thing. I was in Brisbane recently and went to Gauge restaurant and one of the dishes my friends and I shared was the Cow’s ricotta, sancho pepper, heirloom tomatoes, olive. 

IMG_0134In the restaurant the chefs used an Asian herb but really, there are many herbs that would compliment this dish and each would impart a different taste – I could see myself using common herbs like thyme, oregano or sweet marjoram, tarragon, dill or any of the different types of basil that are now easily available.

Summer to me means eating tomatoes almost every day. Ricotta is also a favourite.

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I arrived home from Brisbane and the next evening I had friends here for dinner and ricotta, tomatoes and the prolific amounts of basil that I am growing on my balcony seemed just right. It was the presentation of this dish that was as important as the taste. My photos do not do it justice, but it was such a a simple dish, full of natural flavours and it looked stunning at the same time. As a summer starter with good bread or crakers it was perfect.

This was the motivation: Cow’s ricotta, sancho pepper, heirloom tomatoes, olive.

Ricotta, heirloom tomatoes – easy stuff and easy to get.

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Sansho Pepper is also known as Japanese Pepper and it is unripe Sichuan pepper. It adds a lemon myrtle-like freshness to dishes. This too is easily available from Asian shops, however maybe not in your pantry, but there are alternatives. I have a variety of pepper corns and just recently I bought a range of dried Mexican chillies that I grind up and use like pepper –  some are particularly spicy, slightly tart with an earthy flavour, others are smoky and aromatic and some are very hot.  On this occasion I chose pink pepper corns – it looks good and tastes different.

There were no real olives in this presentation in the restaurant and the black olive favour was achieved with black olive salt. I was at another restaurant today where they used dehydrated olives – fantastic intense flavour and texture. In my version I could have used whole olives especially the shrivelled black, dried olives  but I thought that they would look too big so I used tiny capers and some of my Greek basil with the tiny leaves.

A little spring onion sliced finely also added flavour. Next time I may add a stalk of finely sliced celery – one of those pale green stalks from the inside of the celery. After all, the tomato salads that I learned to make in my family home always had both onion and celery…. this is how Sicilians make tomato salads.

I used cow’s ricotta that I whipped up to a cream with a little salt and pink pepper corns.

I made a basil oil by blending good- quality, extra virgin olive oil with and a little salt and basil picked from my balcony.

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I bought good tomatoes from a reliable stall holder at the Queen Victoria Market (as I always buy quality produce).

As a summer starter with good bread or crackers it was perfect. Good wine helps too.

 

 

 

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A QUICK PASTA DISH for Spring: artichokes, asparagus, peas

Enjoy the fresh flavours of spring with this simple pasta dish that celebrates the season’s freshest vegetables: tender artichokes, crisp asparagus, and sweet peas – the colours and flavours as pleasing to the eye as it is to the palate. You can use broadbeans if you are fortunate in finding produce that has not been harvested when the pods are too mature. It the beans are too big, you will need to peel off the outer layer.

The pictures tell the story.

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I use good quality pasta and sometimes interesting shapes. On this occasion I used Croxetti, the flat medallions from Liguria, and my guests enjoyed it; they are in the shape of flat medallions and usually stamped with a decorative design. And of course, any short pasta will do!

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Use this  sauce made with Spring vegetables as a dressing for the cooked pasta.

Begin by preparing your main ingredient: the artichokes. Strip away the tough outer leaves, then slice them vertically into thin slices. Rub the cut surfaces with lemon to keep them from browning. Don’t overlook the stalks; remove their fibrous skin and slice the tender heart into thin rounds.

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Strip the fibrous covering off the artichoke stalks and slice  the remaining centre of the stalk into thin slices. To do this, cut off the very end of the stem and then strip the  covering or use a paring knife to cut off the covering – expect the covering to be thick.

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Asparagus is a springtime staple, and once you’ve snapped off the tough ends, slice the remaining stalks thinly, allowing them to cook evenly.

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Asparagus are prolific in Spring. Once the tough bottom end of each asparagus is snapped off and discarded, slice the remaining stalks thinly as they will need more cooking than the top end of the asparagus.

In a saucepan, heat a generous drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, then sauté the artichokes and stalks until they begin to soften. Add a splash of white wine and a bit of stock, cover, and let them braise until tender. Set aside.

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Next, bring in the spring onions and sauté them in the same pan until fragrant. Toss in the asparagus and your choice of peas or broad beans, adding a pinch of salt, pepper, and a hint of sugar to enhance the sweetness. For best results, cook in batches to avoid overcrowding.

Once everything is just tender, return the artichokes to the pan, stirring in a dollop of butter and a dash of grated nutmeg. Finish with a sprinkle of fresh parsley or basil for a burst of extra colour, freshness, and flavour.

Dress the cooked pasta to the spring vegetable sauce. For a creamy touch, top it off with a generous dollop of ricotta or grated Parmesan.

Fennel can also be added – consider adding sautéed slices for an extra layer of taste, texture and fragrance.

Enjoy the flavours of spring!

Artichokes are called Carciofi in Italian and there are several recipes on my blog:

ARTICHOKES and how we love them; CAPONATA DI CARCIOFI

SPRING PICNIC; Frittata with artichokes and asparagus

PASTA ALLA FAVORITA (Pasta with artichokes, broad beans, peas alla favorita)

I LOVE ARTICHOKES

*Use the search button to find more recipes about Carciofi/ Artichokes

JEWELS OF SICILY: A celebration of SPRING

Spring in Sicily is welcomed ‘big time’ and spring produce is embraced.

Marisa prepares artichoke 1

Sicilians make a fuss about the preparation and eating of seasonal spring produce: asparagus, artichokes, broad beans, fennel and ricotta. It is the time when the island comes alive – flowers bloom, vines sprout and vegetables ripen.

Pasta and greens with wine

The menu at Waratah Hills Vineyard  was a celebration of Spring, and all who attended the class enjoyed all of that produce and the occasion in such a beautiful vineyard.

Garfish fillets

We ate local garfish rolled around a Sicilian stuffing (commonly used for sardines called Beccafico),  stuffed artichokes and a pasta with a dressing made from sautéed spring vegetables, moistened with wine and stock and topped with nutmeg and creamy ricotta.

Carlo and Peter watch Marisa add stock

We drank excellent, matching wines with each course and used local, extra virgin olive oil made by Judy and Neil’s (proprietors of Waratah Hills Vineyard and organizers of this event) neighbours .

Beccafico

Cassata  of course was the final culinary jewel; I coated it with not-too-sweet marzipan…..and I have my tongue out in anticipation…(I do not know what I was saying!)

Marisa talks about cassata

A few dressed Sicilian Green olives at the start did not go astray (garlic, orange rind,  chilli flakes, wild fennel fronds, bay leaves, extra virgin olive oil) and a fennel and orange salad as a palate cleanser eaten after the fish was a good choice .

Marisa cooking fritedda close up

Thank you to all those eager and friendly people who made the event a success.

Judy and Marisa talking food

Waratah Hills Vineyard Wines:

http://waratahhills.com.au/buy-online/

 

 

RICOTTA RAVIOLI and STONE GROUND FLOUR

RAVIOLI DI RICOTTA e MULINO DI CEREALI A PIETRA

Ricotta ravioli and stone ground flour in Chiaramonte, South Eastern Sicily

This is Franco the miller who mills cereali a pietra – in other words he produces stone-ground flour from high quality wheat from ancient strains. He and his partner have an old water mill and they are experimenting with reviving old strains of wheat – so far so good! And there are farmers who are growing the old strains and buyers who are supporting it. Many of them are restaurateurs who are making pasta and bread in their restaurants.

The area of Sicily where this is happening is Chiaramonte Gulfi– I am so impressed and interested in what is happening in this south-eastern part of Sicily (see post about Massimiliano the Butcher).

The grain smelt wonderful and watching the stones grinding and the sifting process was an amazing experience. The flour needs to be kept in cool conditions or used quickly as it does not have any additives or bleaches, the germ of the wheat is maintained in the milling – flour that is good for us in other words.

Franco does not waste the by-products.  The bran is sold as animal fodder and he has customers and supporters who are interested in using the finer bran in baking. We sampled some bran biscuits produced by one of his followers.

The photo below is of the water powered mechanism to power the grinding of the wheat.

There was another reason why I was interested in this mill and that is that my grandparents in Ragusa used to have an old water mill down by the river at the bottom of Ragusa Ibla. It no longer functioned as a mill and they used it as their get-away from the city, especially in the summer months, and grew their herbs and vegetables there. Being a regular visitor to Ragusa as a child I loved the mill (we travelled from Trieste and visited my grandparents each summer for two months each year).

I bought some of Franco’s flour home to my aunt, Zia Niluzza, who lives in Ragusa and still makes pasta by hand on special occasions. My visit this time was the special occasion and she produced her exceptionally good, traditional ricotta ravioli that are a specialty of this area of Sicily.

The ravioli di ricotta from Ragusa are usually served with a strong sugo (meat and a tomato-based sauce) made with pork meat and pork sausages. In Ragusa they add a little sugar (1 teaspoon per cup of ricotta; other local variations are to include a little orange peel or finely cut fresh sweet marjoram (Maggiorana). This herb is not common in Sicily but where it is used in Italian cooking  it is added to delicate dishes.

My aunt also made her special gnochetti. Rather than eating one kind of pasta at a time, we piled both ravioli and pasta into the one plate and helped ourselves to more sugo – but I noticed that she now uses less pork and I did not detect any pork rind in this sugo. Rind is also a common additive in this part of Sicily. Even old school Sicilians are all health conscious these days. I did however note that she adds lard to certain pastries!

For the ravioli you will need fresh pasta sheets and strong sugo made with meat tomatoes and tomato paste.

Make the ravioli:
The most authentic and quickest way to cut the ravioli is by hand. There is no prescribed size – they can be either round or square (about 7cm/3in across) or half-moon shaped (a 9cm/4in circle folded over).

To make individual ravioli, cut pasta into circles or squares. Place heaped teaspoons of stuffing in the centre of each, continuing until all the stuffing is used. For half-moon shapes fold the pasta over the filling. For others, lay another circle or square on top, then moisten the edges with a little water and
press together carefully to seal properly (press hard on the edges and spread the pasta to a single thickness, so they cook evenly).

Set the finished ravioli on a lightly floured cloth. They can rest in a cool place for up two hours.

To make more than one raviolo at a time:
Cut the pasta into long rectangular strips about 9cm wide. Place heaped teaspoons of stuffing about 5 cm apart (beginning about 2cm/.in from the margin of the sheet). Cover with another strip of pasta of the same size.
Cut each raviolo free with a knife or serrated pasta wheel. Repeat the process, until all the pasta and the stuffing is used up.

Cooking:
Cook ravioli as you would any pasta. Lower them into the water a few at a time and scoop each out when it floats to the surface.
Dress them carefully with the sauce so as not to break.

My Zia Niluzza, an exceptional cook.

 

RICOTTA and FRIED PEPPERS (Peperoni fritti). The Butter Factory at Myrtleford

Her name is Naomi and she is very skilled at what she does.  But Naomi wishes to expand her expertise and she is travelling to Europe in the near future.
She is a champion butter maker at The Butter Factory at Myrtleford, a restored historic building.  She sources the cream locally and the butter is hand-made. And I admire her even more because she did it the hard way, first by helping her mother to set the place up, developing her trade and by finding the abandoned, rusty machinery in various old sheds and paddocks and having it reconditioned – she has a cooling, a heating and a separating machine and all three work a treat.
Naomi also makes pure buttermilk and has been making small quantities of ricotta with buttermilk. She sells her produce locally from The Butter Factory and at Victorian farmers markets – driving from Myrtleford to markets in Melbourne on weekends after a hard week takes some determination. She intends to pursue her ricotta making skills and wishes to try smoking some of her ricotta soon.
Her Mother Bronwyn Ingleton cooks on the same premises – I sampled some of her cooking recently in the cafe and judging from the number of customers eating her food, I am not the only one to enjoy it.
When I first discovered Naomi’s produce, I discussed in a previous post eating the slightly sour tasting ricotta with poached figs. This time I presented the ricotta as an antipasto with fried red peppers, the long, banana shaped variety which Italians fry (I bought these from a grower in Myrtleford). The red coloured peppers are sweeter, but when you buy them ask if they are hot – they often are, and in this case could overshadow the delicate taste of the ricotta.
INGREDIENTS
red, banana peppers (I used just over 1 kilo)
extra virgin olive oil, ½ cup or more
wine vinegar, 1 tablespoon
sugar, ¾ tablespoon
salt to taste
PROCESSES
Cut the peppers lengthwise in half, remove the seeds and ribs and cut into strips.
Heat the oil in a large frying pan (don’t crowd them or they will stew), add the peppers and fry on high heat. Toss them about often to prevent burning.
Add salt and once softened and when they begin to brown, add vinegar and let evaporate.
Add a pinch of sugar and stir gently for about 1 minute.
The peppers are presented at room temperature with the ricotta.
http://www.thebutterfactory.com.au/

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OMLET DI SPINACI (spinach and ricotta crepes )

I am very fond of spinach and next time I visit my sister-in-law in Adelaide, I plan to cook something that holds a special place in our family’s culinary tradition—what my mother always called Omelet di Spinaci. This humble yet elegant dish made quite an impression on my Australian sister-in-law; it was, in fact, one of the very first meals my mother prepared for her when she was welcomed into our home for a Sunday lunch.

Despite its name, omelet—a slightly corrupted version of the French omelette—these are not the fluffy egg-based dishes you might expect. Rather, they are delicate crepes filled with a rich mixture of ricotta and spinach sautéed gently in butter. The filling is similar to what we used in cannelloni, and the crepes themselves are sometimes referred to as crispelle in other regions of Italy.

Sunday lunch was always a grand affair in my parents’ house. It was the day we invited guests to share our table, and my mother would go to great lengths to create something memorable. When we first arrived in Australia from Trieste, in northern Italy, Omelet di Spinaci were very much in vogue—and for a time, they became her signature dish whenever company came over.

Often, the filled crepes were topped with a rich sugo made from high-quality minced veal and beef, slow-cooked to bring out deep, layered flavours. Other times, she would pair them with vitello arrosto—a dish that, despite its name, was never oven-roasted. Instead, the veal was braised slowly on the stovetop, producing a deeply savoury jus that served both as a sauce for the omelets and as the perfect accompaniment to the meat, which was served as the secondo.

These flavours remain deeply tied to my memories of home and hospitality. Cooking Omelet di Spinaci in Adelaide will not only bring a taste of our family’s traditions to the table—it will also be a tribute to the quiet legacy my mother created through her cooking, one Sunday lunch at a time.

A Spinach by Any Other Name

When we first arrived in Australia, what is now widely known as “English spinach” wasn’t readily available.

It only became commercially accessible much later. At the time, what was commonly referred to as spinach in markets was often silverbeet or beet greens (blede in Italian), typically found at quality greengrocers.

Blede, a type of Spinach.

Silverbeet, in particular, was a staple in many Australian backyard gardens. However, to use it for dishes like Omelet di Spinaci, we had to strip the tender green leaves completely from the fibrous white stalks—a process that felt like a terrible waste of good produce.

Silverbeet.

Rather than discard the stalks, we found creative ways to use them. Sometimes we cooked them separately, covering them with béchamel sauce and a generous sprinkling of parmesan cheese before baking them in the oven. We would jokingly refer to this dish as cardi—a nod to cardoons, the artichoke’s lesser-known cousin, which it vaguely resembled in texture and taste.

Over time, the term spinach came to refer to various leafy greens in everyday language, adding to the confusion. This is why you’ll sometimes see different types of greens in photos or dishes all described simply as “spinach.”

Of course, during those early years in Australia, it was my job to help in the kitchen—preparing vegetables, stirring sauces, and learning my mother’s methods by heart. Perhaps that’s why my sister-in-law has asked me to make this dish again when I visit her in Adelaide. Omelet di Spinaci are a cherished specialty of northern Italy, and recreating them is not just about the ingredients—it’s about passing on a tradition, one carefully prepared crepe at a time.

English Spinach.
INGREDIENTS AND PROCESSES
Crepes

3 eggs, slightly beaten, 3/4 cup plain flour, 1/2 tsp. salt, 2 cups milk.
Mix the batter and leave to rest for at least 1 hour.
Fry crepes in a little butter. Make them thin/add more milk if necessary.
The crepes can be left for about 2 hours, and filled later if necessary.

Filling

English spinach, (I use 2 bunches for 6 people), 500g ricotta (drained),
50 g grated parmesan, ½tsp. nutmeg, salt. Some people put 1 egg in the
filling. Could be useful if you think that the mixture may be too sloppy.

Place the spinach in a large saucepan over medium heat. Cook, covered, squeeze out any excess moisture from the spinach. Coarsely chop and sauté the spinach in butter. Add nutmeg, and over medium heat stir occasionally for a few minutes until the spinach is flavoured. Transfer to a bowl and let cool for about 10mins. Add the drained ricotta and parmesan and combine (egg is optional). Season with salt and pepper.

Sugo

1/4  cup extra virgin olive oil
400g beef mince or cut into small chunks (fat trimmed)
400gveal mince or cut into small chunks (fat trimmed)
1 onion, sliced finely
700g passata or crushed tomatoes
basil, oregano,
salt and pepper

Heat oil in a large saucepan and soften the onion. Cook the meat until lightly browned.
Add passata/tomatoes, herbs and salt and pepper. Simmer, stirring now and again for about an hour medium-low heat. Remove the lid half way through cooking and evaporate some of the liquid.
To assemble
Preheat oven to 180°C.
Place 1 crepe on a clean work surface.
Fill with spinach mixture down the centre of the crepe. Roll up firmly to enclose filling.
Place the crepes side by side in a large ovenproof baking dish.
Spoon the sugo over the crepes and sprinkle with more grated parmesan.
Bake in oven for 20 minutes or until the cheese melts and crepes are heated through.