Category: Italian Cooking Techniques

ANTIPASTO – GRILLED SUMMER VEGETABLES AND A SCOOP OF SALADS

An antipasto of grilled summer vegetables and a scoop of salads are one of the simplest and most satisfying meals. When eggplants and peppers are abundant in summer and autumn, there is little that can rival a generous platter of beautifully grilled seasonal vegetables dressed with excellent extra virgin olive oil or some of the sauces I have listed below.

They are equally at home as a light starter, part of an antipasto spread or alongside grilled meat, fish or cheese as part of the main meal.

Grilled vegetables are a classic Italian antipasto, especially when summer eggplants, zucchini and peppers are at their best
Choose the Best Seasonal Vegetables

Eggplants and peppers are favourites, but zucchini deserve a place on the platter too. Depending on the season, I also like to include asparagus, broccolini or green beans. Even leftover cooked vegetables from the previous evening can be transformed into something special.

The vegetables can be cooked over a barbecue, on a grill plate or in the oven. The important thing is to cook them until they are tender and lightly charred, bringing out their natural sweetness.

Once grilled, all they need is a drizzle of good-quality extra virgin olive oil, finely chopped garlic, fresh parsley and perhaps a squeeze of lemon juice.

Charring peppers on the BBQ

The vegetables can be grilled on a BBQ or Grill press or in the oven.

Grilling eggplants the Grill Press

Vegetables – Add Freshness and Crunch

One of the pleasures of a grilled vegetable platter is that it can be different every time.

For contrast, add finely sliced celery, fennel, cucumber or even crisp apple. Tomatoes, spring onions and fresh basil also work beautifully. These fresh ingredients add colour, texture and brightness while the olive oil ties everything together with its fragrance and richness.

Simple ingredients, thoughtfully combined, rarely disappoint.

Grilled vegetables with other ingredients
Romesco Sauce – A flavourful Accompaniment

Recently, I noticed the same idea in two different restaurants. Both served grilled vegetables with generous dollops of Romesco sauce on the side.

One dish featured grilled asparagus topped with crisp fried breadcrumbs. The other showcased grilled eggplant, cooked until soft and then roughly mashed rather than served in slices. The creamy eggplant paired beautifully with the smoky, nutty Romesco.

A slice of rustic bread was all that was needed to scoop up the vegetables and every last spoonful of the sauce.

And, of course, another drizzle of excellent extra virgin olive oil completed the dish.

Summer tomatoes and basil
SALSA ROMESCO (Romesco Sauce with Roasted Peppers, Tomatoes and Almonds)

Romesco is a rich, smoky sauce that pairs beautifully with grilled vegetables, seafood and meats. This version combines roasted peppers, tomatoes, garlic and almonds, resulting in a sauce that is full of flavour and wonderfully versatile.

Char-grill or barbecue the peppers whole until the skins are blackened. Peel away the skins, remove the seeds and tear the flesh into strips. If using fresh tomatoes, cut them into large pieces and grill them alongside the peppers. Roast or grill the garlic until soft.

Blend the roasted vegetables with the almonds and the remaining ingredients until you achieve the texture you prefer—either smooth or slightly coarse.

Romesco Sauce with Hazelnuts

Hazelnuts are a traditional alternative to almonds and give the sauce a richer, deeper flavour. In this version, all of the vegetables are roasted in the oven rather than grilled.

Use the same ingredients as the recipe above, substituting hazelnuts for the almonds.

Place the tomatoes, peppers and a whole head of garlic in a lightly oiled roasting tray and roast in a preheated 190°C oven. Remove each vegetable as it becomes tender: the tomatoes will take about 10 minutes, while the peppers and garlic will need approximately 30–40 minutes. Once cooled, peel the peppers and garlic, then blend with the remaining ingredients to your preferred consistency.

Sauces, see also:

SALSA ROMESCO (Romesco sauce, this recipe is made with roasted peppers, tomatoes and almonds)

SALAMURRIGGHIU – SALMORIGLIO (Dressing made with oil, lemon and oregano)

SAUCES for meat, fish and vegetables to brighten up your Christmas

SARSA DI CHIAPPAREDDI (King George Whiting presented with a sauce made with capers and anchovies)

Other recipes for grilled Peppers:

ROASTED CHARRED PEPPERS

PEPPERS WITH BREADCRUMBS- PIPI CA MUDDICA – PEPERONI CON LA MOLLICA

 

 

 

 

 

Carne Aglassata – Glazed tongue in onion sauce

Carne Aglassata is one of Sicily’s classic braised meat dishes. Cooked slowly with an abundance of onions, the onions gradually collapse into a rich, velvety sauce that reduces to coat the meat with a beautiful glossy glaze.

The name aglassata comes from the French word glacer (to glaze), a reminder of the French influence on Sicilian cooking. Once the sauce has reduced, it clings to the meat with a silky sheen, giving the dish both its appearance and its name.

Carne Aglassata – ox tongue slowly braised with onions until the sauce becomes rich, glossy and full of flavour.
A Dish from the Monsù Kitchens

Carne Aglassata is closely associated with Palermo and the refined cooking of the Monsù—from the French monsieur. These French and French-trained cooks worked in the households of Sicily’s aristocratic families during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.

Some Monsù were French; others came from Piedmont, a region heavily influenced by France at the time. They blended French culinary techniques with Sicilian ingredients, producing elaborate dishes that became an important part of Sicily’s gastronomic history. Many of these sumptuous meals are vividly described in Il Gattopardo (The Leopard) by Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, a novel that captures Sicily during the years of the Risorgimento.

Yet Carne Aglassata remains surprisingly simple at heart. Its success depends not on expensive ingredients but on two essentials—meat and plenty of onions—slowly transformed into something remarkably rich and satisfying.

My Father’s Version: Tongue Instead of Beef

Traditionally, Carne Aglassata is prepared with yearling beef, often girello (silverside or eye of round). My father’s version as made by his family in Ragusa, was often made with ox tongue (lingua).

I’ve never understood why he began cooking it only after our family migrated to Australia. While we lived in Sicily he rarely cooked, yet once we settled here, Sunday mornings often began with the gentle aroma of onions, herbs and tongue slowly simmering on the stove.

Lunch followed a familiar pattern. Most of the onion sauce was tossed through rigatoni or penne, while the sliced tongue was served afterwards as the main course, dressed with the remaining sauce. Occasionally he added peas during the final stage of cooking, and sometimes pieces of tongue found their way into the pasta as well.

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Good quality pasta

It was a simple family meal, but one that remains among my strongest food memories.

Slow Cooking Makes the Difference

Traditionally the dish is cooked with lard, which gives the finished sauce its characteristic gloss. I now use mostly extra virgin olive oil, adding just a tablespoon of lard at the end to achieve the same silky finish.

Because ox tongue contains a fair amount of fat, I prefer to cook it a day ahead. After an overnight rest in the refrigerator, the solidified fat can be lifted away easily before reheating the sauce. I also trim away the thicker back section of the tongue, which is generally fattier.

The result is a lighter dish without sacrificing flavour.

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Lard I keep in the fridge and I collect this after roasting pork.

INGREDIENTS

  • 1 ox tongue
  • 4 large onions, thinly sliced
  • 1 glass dry white wine
  • 2 sprigs rosemary
  • 6–8 sage leaves
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • About ½ cup extra virgin olive oil and lard combined (or use all olive oil if preferred)
Preparing the Tongue

Wash the tongue thoroughly, scrubbing it well with a vegetable or clean kitchen brush.

Place it in a saucepan, cover with cold water and bring to the boil. Simmer for about 30 minutes, or until the outer skin turns white.

Drain immediately and peel away the thick outer skin while the tongue is still hot. It should come away quite easily.

Peeled ox tongue
Method

Choose a saucepan that will comfortably hold the tongue without requiring excessive water.

Place the sliced onions in the pan with the olive oil, rosemary, sage, salt and pepper. Sit the peeled tongue on top and add just enough water to almost cover it.

Cover and cook gently over low heat for about 2 hours.

Add the white wine and continue cooking, covered, for a further 30 minutes, or until the tongue is very tender.

Refrigerate the saucepan overnight.

The next day, remove and discard the solidified fat. Lift out the tongue and set it aside.

Boil the onion sauce over medium-high heat until it thickens to a rich, glossy consistency. Stir in about 1 tablespoon of lard if using.

Slice the tongue and return it to the sauce just long enough to heat through.

The tongue has been sliced and covered with the onion sauce

Serve the onion sauce with pasta as a first course, followed by the sliced tongue as the main dish, or simply serve everything together.

Any leftover tongue is also excellent pressed and served cold.

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Variations

Some Sicilian cooks add fresh peas during the final stages of cooking. Others include slices of tongue in the pasta sauce, making the first course even more substantial.

However you serve it, the true star of Carne Aglassata is the sweet, slow-cooked onion sauce that gives the dish its distinctive glaze.

Carne Aglassata is a classic Sicilian braise where ox tongue slowly cooks with onions until they become a rich, glossy sauce perfect for pasta and meat.

AGGLASSATO braised meat with a thick onion sauce

GELATINA DI MAIALE. Pork Brawn

SPEZZATINO DI CAPRETTO (Italian Goat/ Kid stew)

Spezzatino di Capretto is a traditional Italian stew made with kid or goat. Italians tend to cook kid. It is one of those rustic dishes that rewards slow cooking, allowing the meat to become beautifully tender while absorbing the flavours of herbs, vegetables and white wine.

I am always delighted to find good-quality goat meat in Australia. Recently, I discovered some at the Farmers Market in Albury–Wodonga. The meat came from Myrrhee Premium Boer Goats, a farm on the Benalla–Whitfield Road between Benalla and Wangaratta, close to Victoria’s beautiful King Valley food and wine region.

The farm raises free-range Boer goats—the distinctive white and chestnut-brown breed—and produces both milk-fed capretto (kid goat) and chevon, the meat from older goats. I could not resist buying some of each, including their excellent goat sausages, which contain a little pork to add richness and flavour.

*In Australia, goat is still something of a rarity, but it deserves to be better known. Milk-fed capretto is delicate and tender, while chevon—the meat from older goats—has a fuller, richer flavour that is ideal for slow cooking.

Goat with two kids b
Fee Range Boar goats and kids

Capretto and the Italian Spring

In Italy, capretto is especially associated with spring and Easter. Across much of the country—and particularly in Sicily—it is a celebratory meal that has long featured on family tables during the Easter season.

The photograph below was taken in the market in Catania during spring. In Sicily, as in many parts of Italy, whole carcasses or sides of meat are traditionally displayed with the head attached. You may also notice that one hoof is often left with a little fur. My mother always explained that this reassured buyers that they were purchasing exactly the animal they had asked for.

The display also includes the innards, which are highly prized and often cleaned, seasoned, threaded onto skewers or wrapped in caul fat before being grilled.

Kid goat displayed in Catania’s market during spring, with the head attached—a long-standing Italian tradition that identifies the animal
A Simple Country Stew

Although this recipe is made with kid or goat, the same method works equally well with veal or lamb.

Many Italian spezzatini include potatoes, but I like using fennel instead. As it slowly braises, the fennel becomes sweet and silky, complementing the delicate flavour of the goat without overwhelming it.

This is uncomplicated country cooking at its best.

Ingredients
  • 1.5 kg kid/ goat, chopped into serving pieces (bone-in)
  • 4 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 1 onion, sliced
  • 2 carrots, cut into large pieces
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 cup dry white wine
  • 2–3 fresh bay leaves
  • 1 cup chopped parsley
  • 1–2 fennel bulbs, quartered
Method

Heat the olive oil in a heavy braising pan over medium-high heat. Brown the goat well on all sides until lightly caramelised. Work in batches if necessary.

Remove the meat and sauté the onion until softened. Add the garlic and cook briefly before returning the goat to the pan.

Pour in the white wine, allowing it to reduce slightly, then add the carrots, bay leaves, parsley, salt and pepper.

Cover and cook gently over low heat for at least one hour.

Add the fennel quarters and continue cooking until both the meat and fennel are tender. Depending on the age of the goat, this may take a little longer. Check the stew occasionally and add a little water or stock if necessary.

Taste and adjust the seasoning before serving.

The stew is delicious with crusty bread, creamy polenta (northern Italy choice) or roasted potatoes to soak up the fragrant cooking juices.

Other kid or goat recipes:

OVEN COOKED KID (capretto)

SLOW COOKED LEG OF GOAT WITH HOT MINT SAUCE

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FILETTI DI SARDINE CON VINO E LIMONE (Sardines with wine)

These two recipes for Filetti Di Sardine Con Vino E Limone  –  Sardines With Wine And Lemon  – use the same ingredients but differ in preparation. One recipe involves sautéing the sardines while the other bakes them. I prefer to use cleaned whole sardines when baking.

A close-up of a fish AI-generated content may be incorrect.
I love sardines. Being a small fish they cook quickly and are still considered by some as being exotic.

In both recipes whole fish or fillets can be used. The sardines as fillets (no bones) can be eaten on fresh or toasted bread and makes a good starter. I like to top them with a little harissa when I do this (mixing of cultures here). However, the first time I tried Harissa was in Augusta, Sicily.

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INGREDIENTS
500 g of fresh sardines (whole or fillets), ½ cup extra virgin olive oil, 1 teaspoon of fresh parsley and ½ tsp of dry oregano, 1-2 cloves of garlic chopped finely, salt and pepper to taste, juice of ½ lemon, ¼ cup white wine.
Instead of using white wine try cooking them with red wine and use red wine vinegar. It alters the taste and colour.

PROCESSES
Sauté sardines in hot extra virgin olive oil, add a sprinkle of salt and pepper to taste, garlic and the herbs. Turn once only. Remove from pan and set aside.
Add lemon and wine and de-glaze the pan. Evaporate a little to form a sauce. Return the sardines to the pan to coat them in the sauce and to reheat.

INGREDIENTS (as above)
I prefer to use whole sardines for the baked version of this recipe. Fillets can also be cooked the same way but will cook more quickly.

PROCESSES
Bake whole sardines 200°C for 25-30.  Bake fillets for 20mins.
Arrange the sardines in a round baking tin that you have coated with the oil. These look very attractive if arranged in a pattern with their heads in the centre and tails radiating out to the edges (like spokes).
Add a sprinkle of salt and pepper to taste, wine and lemon juice,  garlic and the herbs.
Bake and eat when ready.

These too can be accompanied with bread and harissa.

Harissa made with fresh Chillies

HARISSA (A hot chilli condiment)

ZUPPA INGLESE, Italian dessert and Alchermes

I use a Florentine ancient Liquer called Alchermes (or Alkermes) to make the famous Italian dessert called Zuppa Inglese.

Zuppa Inglese — Italy’s Interpretation of Trifle

Zuppa Inglese is the Italian version of the English trifle that is generally made with sponge cake, moistened with fruit syrup or/and sweet sherry, layered with cream/and or custard, jam, and most times red coloured jelly made with jelly crystals.

Trifle is still being made in UK and countries like Australia (that initially inherited much of the British cuisine) especially at Christmas. Over time there have been some little variations to the recipe, for example I have often eaten trifle in Australian homes that included preserved fruit – particularly canned peaches. Recently fresh fruit has become a popular edition, particularly strawberries.

The Origins of Zuppa Inglese

The roots of Zuppa Inglese are shrouded in mystery, with several theories about how the dessert came to Italy. Some suggest it was introduced by Italian diplomats who tasted trifle during visits to London. Others believe it emerged in the kitchens of English expatriates living in Florence in the late 1800s and early 1900s, many of whom employed Italian kitchen staff. These Italian cooks would have adapted the traditional English trifle recipe using local ingredients: , savoiardi, crema pasticcera and perhaps some signori inglesi missed some of their cooking from home and this was what their Italian kitchen maids prepared as trifle Alchermes, the ancient Florentine, red liqueur commonly used to moisten and flavour cakes.

From Trifle to “English Soup”

And thus, Zuppa Inglese was born, earning its nickname “English soup” due to its layered, somewhat “messy” appearance, which some say resembles a soup more than a neatly arranged dessert.

There are many stories about how this English dessert came to be part of Italian cuisine. Some say that perhaps Italian diplomats tasted trifle on a visit to London and this may have been their interpretation of this dessert. Others say that it probably eventuated in the kitchens of the well-off English; there were many living in Florence in the late 1800’s till the lead up of the Second World War.  Most of them employed Italian staff; . They had to use Italian ingredients – savoiardi (sponge fingers – mostly used in layered Italian desserts) and Alchermes the ancient Florentine, red liqueur commonly used to moisten and flavour cakes. Fresh cream was (and is) rarely used in cakes in Italy, but pastry cream called crema pasticcera (also crema inglese – crème anglaise) is very common. And it is easy to see how this sloppy mess could be called “soup”(zuppa).

Modern versions

I have seen modern Italian versions of recipes for Zuppa Inglese, which include red fruit (like berries) and many include chocolate. My mother’s version sometimes included grated dark chocolate on the top; I think that this was partly for decoration; I sometimes top it with cherries and torrone. Other modern versions I have seen have a sprinkling of coffee beans and I wonder if the makers are getting confused with Tiramisu, which because it contains coffee is often decorated with coffee beans.

In the Zuppa Inglese below I have placed a sprinkling of crushed pistacchio nuts and choccolate on top .

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I often make Zuppa Inglese especially when I am stuck for ideas, or have little time to prepare a dessert; it is so easy to prepare and never fails to impress.

I still use the traditional way to make it. I always assemble it in layers: sponge fingers moistened with Alchermes (either homemade or purchased at a good wine shop), cover these with crema pasticcera, repeat x 2-3 layers finishing with a layer of sponge fingers.

I use a large glass bowl to assemble the layers of ingredients (it is a pretty dessert) and keep the zuppa inglese, in the fridge for at least four hours or overnight before I intend to present it – it gives the dessert time to settle and the flavours to develop.  I finally cover it with a layer or tuffs of panna montata (literally meaning cream made into mountains – isn’t the Italian language marvellous!). it is also known as Chantilly cream, whipped cream with a little caster sugar flavoured with vanilla bean –Italians would never think about using plain cream in cakes.

Alchermes LiquEUR

At some stage during my research about Alchermes I found out that the name is likely to have been derived from the Arabic “al” (a) and “qirmiz” (worm). This is because it contains cochineal, which gives the liqueur its red colour. Cochineal used to be made with a particular insect which was crushed and dried, this produced a rich, red dye.

In the photo I have included a bottle of purchased Alchermes (32% volume). I also make my own , see link below.

Recipe for Crema Pasticcera

Crema Pasticcera can be a litttle scary to make. This is the easier way to make the egg custard.

For a more authentic recipes see link below.

INGREDIENTS

3 egg yolks, 3 tablespoons caster sugar infused with a vanilla bean, a pinch of salt 3 tablespoons of cornflour, 1 litre of milk, rind of 1 lemon, and a cinnamon stick, a lump of unsalted butter.

 

PROCESSES

In a saucepan, mix the egg yolks with the sugar and slowly add the flour, salt and a little milk to make a smooth paste – a whisk could be useful. If you do not have sugar that has been infused with a vanilla bean, use a little vanilla essence (not artificial).
Add the rest of the milk and incorporate to dilute the mixture evenly.
Using a vegetable peeler remove the rind in one piece from ½ lemon. Add this to the milk mixture. Add the cinnamon stick.
Use low – medium heat, stir it constantly with a whisk or a wooden spoon and slowly bring it to the boil – the custard should have thickened. if it thickens too much, add a little more milk. Add a lunp of butter and stir it in: this will enrich the custard. Cool before using. To prevent a skin from forming, I place a piece of baking paper or butter paper on its surface until you are cready to use it.
This Zuppa Inglese looks quite impressive in a round glass bowl.
This one is topped with preserved cherries (link below), and bits of torrone.
Zuppa Inglese – decorated.
Zuppa Inglese in progress.
zuppa inglese ready for filling.
Zuppa Inglese, nearly ready for final layer.

Zuppa Inglese is the kind of dessert that’s perfect for any occasion. It’s versatile enough for a family dinner, but elegant enough to serve at a special gathering. While modern variations with berries or chocolate are delicious in their own right, there’s something about sticking with tradition that feels just right.

SEE:
 In Australia I make my Alchermes with Vodka. How to make Alchermes Alkermes the liqueur to make Zuppa Inglese: ALCHERMES/ALKERMES (The liqueur used to make Zuppa Inglese)

MILLEFOGLIE or Millefeuille and CREMA PASTICCIERA or crème pâtissière

Marmellata di cigliege (Cherry jam) and Zuppa Inglese

CASSATA ( Post no. 2) Calls for a celebration!!!

Cassata, calls for a celebration!

This cassata was prepared for a celebration. I was particularly pleased that my friend followed the cassata and marzipan fruit recipes on my blog (links below).

She got in touch and sent me some photos—it was her New Year’s Eve cake!

Doesn’t the cassata and the fruit look absolutely wonderful?

Hand-made marzipan fruit.

 

SHE writes:
Your recipe works a treat and it is a great celebratory dessert. Everyone on New Year’s Eve thought it was very special!

Some even ate the marzipan fruit!

With more time I would have created a fancy edging with small leaf shapes. Your sponge recipe was most successful! The cake was delicious and I was generous with Cointreau. Everybody was delighted with the cassata – it was the highlight of the meal.

I followed your recipe closely but added more couverture choc (which isn’t so sweet) and glace orange and citron to the ricotta. The glace orange doesn’t have the intense flavour of candied orange peel so you need a bit more of that. I would be inclined to bump up the use of Cointreau next time to make the sponge even moister and to bring out the lovely orange liqueur flavour even more.

Could you also try adding honey to replace some of the sugar in the ricotta mix? It could make the ricotta a little moister too but wouldn’t make it too sloppy as it is stored in the fridge (the honey becomes more viscous when cooled). It has stored well in the fridge (hasn’t gone weepy at all). We had some for morning tea today with friends and it was greatly enjoyed.

Cassata cut.

 

MY reply:

Honey would alter the flavour and although this is not considered “traditional”or “authentic’.

But authenticity has very little to offer us in terms of practicality, individual tastes or even updates to what we know now about healthy food.

I am very well aware that you have bee hives in your back garden andI know how tasty your honey is. So why not?? just don’t invite any Sicilians around when you eat the Cassata.

CASSATA (It is perfect for an Australian Christmas)

MARZAPANE also called Pasta Reale (Marzipan)