Category: Sicilian Seafood Cooking

SQUID WITH BLACK INK SAUCE (Calamari al Nero)

Squid with Black Ink Sauce is one of those dishes that never fails to impress. With its glossy black sauce it looks dramatic, tastes intensely  flavourful and of the sea. But, despite its striking appearance, is surprisingly straightforward to prepare.

I recently prepared this dish for a friend’s first gathering. I sought a memorable, yet simple, dish that would feel generous and celebratory. It was the ideal choice.

Because I have included many photos and discussed the ingredients,  the process may look complicated. But it isn’t.

Calamari and Cuttle Fish, the differences

Calamari (squid) have long, streamlined bodies, ten tentacles (eight arms and two longer feeding tentacles) and tender, mildly sweet flesh. They cook quickly and are popular grilled, fried, stuffed or slowly braised.

Cuttlefish (seppie) are close relatives of squid but have broader, flatter bodies and firmer, sweeter flesh. They contain larger ink sacs than squid, making them the preferred choice for classic dishes such as seppie al nero, where the ink creates a rich, glossy black sauce.

Cuttle fish is more difficult to purchase, and in fact mostly impossible in the Queen Victoria market so I have used Calamari in this Recipe.

Introduction and background to squid or cuttlefish cooked in black ink

Over the years I have cooked calamari al nero many times, changing the recipe to suit the occasion. Because I know this dish well from both Trieste and Sicily, my version sits comfortably between the two traditions. It combines the rich black sauce of the northern Adriatic with the brighter flavours of southern Italy.

Calamari al nero, glossy and black and delicious!

Being winter in Melbourne, I served it with crisp baked polenta rather than pasta—a combination that always draws admiration before it is tasted. And of course polenta is northern Italian food.

A Dish Shared Across Italy

Squid or cuttlefish cooked in its own ink (calamari al nero or seppie al nero) is one of Italy’s most distinctive seafood dishes. It appears all along the Italian coastline, but each region prepares and serves it differently.

Veneto and Venice

Around Venice, seppie al nero is a classic. Cuttlefish are preferred because they have larger ink sacs. The cuttlefish is slowly braised with onion, garlic, white wine and just a little tomato until the ink produces a glossy, intensely flavoured sauce.

It is traditionally served with soft white polenta. . I used golden polenta and the contrast between the jet-black sauce and the golden polenta is as beautiful as it is delicious and perfectly balances the richness of the ink.

Trieste and Friuli Venezia Giulia

Across the northern Adriatic in Trieste and Friuli Venezia Giulia, the dish remains very much part of everyday cooking. In Italian it is called seppie in umido; in the Triestino dialect it becomes sepe in umido. It still appears regularly on the menus of traditional trattorie, especially in Trieste Vecchia, the city’s historic quarter.

Although Trieste has absorbed influences from Slovenia and the former Austro-Hungarian Empire, this dish remains unmistakably Adriatic.

Sicily

In Sicily the same dish takes on a different character. Squid is used more frequently than cuttlefish, and the sauce generally contains more tomato, fresh parsley, garlic or onion and white wine. The result is lighter, fresher and more aromatic, while the ink still provides its unmistakable depth of flavour.

Rather than polenta, Sicilians usually toss the sauce through spaghetti, sometimes serving the squid separately as a second course.

These regional differences reflect Italy’s extraordinary culinary diversity, but both result in a silky sauce with extraordinary depth and complexity.

Finding Squid Ink

Not everyone can buy squid or cuttlefish with the ink sacs intact. Most seafood is cleaned before sale and the ink is discarded.

Fortunately, nero di seppia (cuttlefish ink) is widely available from Italian delicatessens and specialist food stores. It is sold in small sachets, jars or tubes and is the same product used by many Italian cooks when fresh ink is unavailable, especially these days when the fish is mostly sold clean and cut. The ink has a long shelf life and delivers the same deep black colour and rich flavour.

If your fishmonger prepares whole squid or cuttlefish, ask whether they can save the ink sacs for you. They freeze well for several months. Simply thaw them, pierce the sac and stir the ink into the sauce towards the end of cooking.

Fresh ink has a slightly more delicate flavour, but good-quality packaged nero di seppia is an excellent substitute.

How to Clean Squid
  • Pull the head and tentacles from the body.
  • Remove the internal bone.
  • Peel away the skin and remove the fins.
  • Slit the body open.
  • Remove the innards, reserving the ink sac if present.
  • Remove the eyes and beak from the tentacles.
  • Rinse thoroughly and pat dry before slicing.
Cleaning and cutting the squid
For the polenta

Prepare your preferred polenta ahead of time so it can be baked just before serving. Information, instructions further down in this post.

Baked polenta with the compulsory crust

THE RECIPE

Squid with Black Ink Sauce (Calamari al Nero)

Ingredients

Serves 6–8

For the BRAISED squid
  • 2.5-3 kg small squid, cleaned and sliced
  • ½ cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 400 g tin of chopped or puréed tomatoes
  • 1-2 tablespoon tomato paste
  • 1 cup finely chopped parsley
  • 1 cup dry white wine
  • 4–6 sachets squid ink (4 g each), or about 3 tablespoons nero di seppia paste
  • 1 cup fish stock or water
  • Pinch chilli flakes (optional, especially if cooked in Southern Italy)
  • Fresh chilli, finely sliced, to finish
  • You can add peas – I used frozen, 2 cups. adds taste, nutrition and visual appeal.
Final addition – the fresh chilli

I also deseeded a couple of long red chillies, cut them into thin strips and put them on top of the black glossy contents.

Method

  • Heat the olive oil in a large heavy pan and gently soften the garlic.
  • Add the squid in batches so it sautés rather than steams. Cook for about 15 minutes.

  • Pour in the wine, add the tomatoes.
Adding a can of tomato puree to the squid
  • Add parsley (and cilli flakes if using). Cover and simmer gently for about 40 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Adding the parsley to the squid
  • Stir in the squid ink and cook for another 20 minutes or until the squid is tender.
Draining the squid from the main saucepan into another and evaporating the sauce
  • Remove the squid  from the main saucepan with a slotted spoon. Reduce the sauce until thick, glossy, black and intensely flavoured.
  • Stir in the tomato paste if further thickening is needed.
Adding a little tomato paste to thicken the sauce
  • Return the squid to the pan.
Returning the squid to the reduced sauce
  • Add the frozen peas and cook gently for a final 10 minutes.
  • Once cooked, add the strips of fresh chilli. on top.
The squid with the peas and thin strips of red chillies

ABOUT POLENTA and Baked Polenta

Types of Polenta:

Instant polenta is usually made from yellow cornmeal that has been pre-cooked and dried, so it cooks in 2–10 minutes instead of the traditional 30- 35 minutes. It produces a smooth, creamy consistency but generally lacks the depth of flavour and texture of traditionally cooked polenta. It is ideal for quick weeknight meals and can be served soft or left to set before grilling or frying.

Yellow polenta is the most common type in Italy and is made from yellow maize. When cooked slowly, it develops a rich corn flavour and can range from soft and creamy to firm enough to slice once cooled. It pairs well with hearty meat ragùs, sausages, mushrooms, game, braised dishes and robust cheeses. This is the type of polenta I stock at home.

White polenta is made from white corn and has a milder, more delicate flavour and a finer texture than yellow polenta. Traditionally associated with the Veneto and parts of Friuli Venezia Giulia, it is often served with seafood, salt cod (baccalà), cuttlefish in ink, or more delicate meat dishes. It is cooked in the same way as traditional yellow polenta but has a softer, silkier finish.

Cook the polenta according to the packet directions (traditional polenta generally takes about 30 minutes).

Pour into a well-oiled baking dish or heavy ovenproof pan. Smooth the surface, drizzle generously with extra virgin olive oil and bake in a moderate oven for about 30 minutes until lightly crisp on top.

Serve generous slices topped with the squid and plenty of black ink sauce.

Leftover polenta is excellent fried the following day in olive oil until it develops a crisp crosta—a golden crust that Italians treasure.

The polenta waiting to be baked. It can be cooked and poured into a baking tin well before you bake it

Golden baked polenta provides the perfect contrast to the silky black ink sauce.

The polenta and squid in black ink sauce on the table, ready to be served

Finished dish with peas and strips of fresh red chillies

Serving the squid dish on each plate with the polenta
Calamari al Nero served on crisp baked polenta—a meeting of Sicilian and northern Adriatic traditions.
The squid with black ink sauce and polenta was immensely enjoyed by all

SEPPIE IN UMIDO CON POLENTA (Cuttlefish or Squid With Black Ink And Polenta from Trieste)

MONTALBANO’S PASTA WITH BLACK INK SAUCE

Polenta and its magic

NDUJA with SQUID, very simple

CALAMARETTI IN TEGAME; in Sicilian it is CALAMARICCHI ’N’TIANU (Small calamari braised with tomatoes and potatoes)

MONTALBANO’S FAVOURITE DISHES

RICOTTA RAVIOLI and STONE GROUND FLOUR

PASTA CON LE SARDE, RICETTA SEMPLICE

La Pasta con le Sarde è uno dei piatti più iconici della Sicilia: una ricetta semplice ma profondamente espressiva, che unisce le sarde al finocchio e a ingredienti che raccontano la storia lunga e stratificata dell’isola.

****Sul mio blog ci sono numerose versioni della Pasta con le Sarde, scritte nel corso di molti anni, accompagnate da tante fotografie e varianti. Tuttavia, ho creato questa versione più semplice per chi preferisce un metodo di preparazione più rapido, (forse preferito in Australia e altri in diverse parti nel mondo), soprattutto nel periodo natalizio, spesso molto intenso. Avevo preparato questa ricetta anche per una sessione radiofonica su SBS Italian, ma non c’è stato tempo per parlarne (come sempre, preparo troppo!).

Le sarde sono abbondanti nei mari siciliani, il finocchietto selvatico cresce spontaneamente quando è di stagione, e sapori come pinoli, uvetta e zafferano parlano chiaramente dell’influenza araba che ha segnato profondamente la cucina siciliana. Il tocco finale, la muddica atturrata – pangrattato tostato – sostituisce il formaggio ed è inconfondibilmente siciliano.

Molto probabilmente prenderò in considerazione la Pasta con le Sarde anche per il periodo delle feste natalizie.

Un piatto radicato nella tradizione siciliana

Questo è un piatto nato dalla necessità e dall’ingegno. In Sicilia la pasta si consuma quasi ogni giorno, e la pasta con le sarde è da sempre un modo per trasformare ingredienti umili e facilmente reperibili in qualcosa di memorabile.

Quando il finocchietto selvatico non è disponibile, quello coltivato funziona molto bene. Io utilizzo il bulbo, le barbe e talvolta una piccola quantità di semi di finocchio per richiamare l’aroma della pianta selvatica. Il finocchietto selvatico è stagionale e in Sicilia viene venduto a mazzi nei mercati. I siciliani rispettano la

Pasta con le Sarde,

stagionalità del finocchietto e tradizionalmente cucinano la Pasta con le Sarde solo nel periodo giusto.

Il bucatino è il formato di pasta che preferisco, ma anche gli spaghetti sono perfettamente adatti.

Pasta con Sarde

Bucatini con le Sarde

INGREDIENTI

  • 500 g di bucatini (formato tradizionale preferito)
  • 700 g di sarde fresche, pulite e sfilettate
  • 200 g di finocchietto selvatico
    (oppure 2 grossi finocchi con le barbe + 1 cucchiaino di semi di finocchio)
  • Circa ¾ di tazza di olio extravergine d’oliva
  • 2 cipolle, affettate finemente
  • 4 filetti di acciuga
  • 1 tazza di pinoli
  • 1 tazza di mandorle tostate, grossolanamente tritate (facoltative)
  • ¾ di tazza di uvetta
  • ½–1 cucchiaino di zafferano
  • Sale e pepe nero

Muddica atturrata:

  • 4–5 cucchiai di pangrattato, tostato in padella con poco olio extravergine.
    Mi piace aggiungere un pizzico di zucchero e cannella durante la tostatura, e un po’ di scorza di limone finemente grattugiata.

METODO (VERSIONE SEMPLICE)

  1. CUOCERE IL FINOCCHIO

Lessare il finocchietto selvatico in acqua salata per 10–15 minuti.
Conservare l’acqua di cottura, profumata e verde, per cuocere la pasta.
Scolare, strizzare bene e tritare finemente.

Se si usa il finocchio coltivato:
Tagliare il bulbo in quarti e lessarlo insieme ai semi di finocchio. Tenere da parte le barbe per dopo. Se presenti, bollire anche i gambi per aromatizzare l’acqua. Eliminare gambi e semi, scolare, tritare il finocchio e conservare l’acqua per la pasta.

  1. PREPARARE IL CONDIMENTO

In una padella capiente, cuocere dolcemente le cipolle nell’olio fino a renderle morbide e dorate.

Aggiungere i filetti di acciuga e mescolare finché si sciolgono, quindi unire pinoli, uvetta e mandorle (se utilizzate).

Aggiungere circa due terzi delle sarde, tritate grossolanamente, salare e pepare, e incorporare alcune barbe di finocchio (o un po’ del finocchio tritato).
Cuocere dolcemente per 5–10 minuti.

Unire il finocchio cotto e lo zafferano sciolto in poca acqua tiepida.

  1. CUOCERE LA PASTA

Cuocere i bucatini nell’acqua di cottura del finocchio fino a quando sono al dente.
Scolare bene.

  1. CUOCERE LE SARDE RIMANENTI

In una padella a parte, friggere leggermente i filetti di sarda rimasti.
Tenere da parte per la fase finale.

  1. ASSEMBLARE IL PIATTO

Unire la pasta al condimento di sarde e mescolare delicatamente.
Lasciare riposare per 5–10 minuti affinché i sapori si amalgamino.

Incorporare con delicatezza i filetti di sarda interi.
Servire con abbondante muddica atturrata.

In questa versione della Pasta con le Sarde non ho sbollentato le mandorle. Non sempre elimino la pellicina della frutta secca né la tosto.

  1. VERSIONE AL FORNO (FACOLTATIVA)

Ungere una pirofila e spolverarla con pangrattato tostato.
Disporre a strati la pasta e il condimento, inserendo qualche filetto di sarda intero tra uno strato e l’altro.

Completare con pangrattato, un filo d’olio e, a piacere, un pizzico di zucchero e cannella.

Cuocere in forno a 200°C per circa 10 minuti, fino a ottenere una leggera crosticina.

A TASTE OF PALERMO: Pasta con le Sarde

PASTA CON LE SARDE (SARDINES)

PASTA CON LE SARDE, Iconic Sicilian made easy

WILD FENNEL and photos

Recipe in my book, Sicilian Seafood Cooking

PASTA CON LE SARDE, an iconic Sicilian recipe from Palermo. Cooked at Slow Food Festival Melbourne

PASTA CON LE SARDE (Pasta with sardines, from Palermo, made with fennel, pine nuts and currants)

PASTA CON SARDE : the baked version, Palermo, Sicily

MY FAMILY FEAST SBS ONE, my recipes have been selected

WILD FENNEL and photos

SUSTAINABLE SHELLFISH: Choices Shape the Sea’s Future

Shellfish like mussels, oysters, and clams stand out as excellent examples of environmentally friendly, sustainable seafood, offering nutritious, delicious meals that also help protect our oceans.

When we choose sustainable seafood, we make a decision that makes an impact far beyond our plate. Shellfish like mussels, oysters, and clams are not only delicious—they’re also some of the most sustainable sources of protein on the planet. By understanding how these ocean creatures are farmed and harvested, we can enjoy their rich flavours while helping protect marine ecosystems for generations to come.

In this post I have written about the sustainability of mussels and shellfish in Australia and Italy and have included a recipe from my book: Sicilian Seafood Cooking , called RISO CON GLI ANGELI, Rice with angels. 

The photo is by Graeme Gillies, food stylist is Fiona Rigg.

Sustainability of Mussels:

Mussels are one of the most sustainable seafood choices available. They are filter feeders, meaning they naturally clean the water by removing excess nutrients and improving marine ecosystems as they grow. Mussel farming requires no feed, antibiotics, or fertilizers—just clean ocean water and space to attach—making their carbon footprint incredibly low compared to other forms of aquaculture. In fact, mussel farms often enhance biodiversity by creating habitats for small fish and marine life. Choosing sustainably farmed mussels supports healthy oceans and promotes environmentally responsible seafood consumption.

Sustainability of Shellfish:
Shellfish such as oysters, clams, and scallops also play a vital role in marine sustainability. Like mussels, they filter and purify seawater, improving coastal water quality while producing protein-rich food with minimal environmental impact. Shellfish farms typically use natural growing methods that require no added feed or chemicals, and they can even help restore damaged marine habitats. Supporting sustainable shellfish industries not only helps maintain balanced ecosystems but also ensures future generations can enjoy nutritious seafood without depleting ocean resources.

MUSSELS

Enjoy a mussel or two – glossy black shells, the faint scent of the sea and one of the ocean’s simplest pleasures – affordable, sustainable, and bursting with flavour. Their magic lies in their simplicity: they cook in minutes, just until their shells open, releasing their own briny liquor that becomes the base for a deeply aromatic broth.

I always enjoy watching guests pry open the shells to reveal the plump, sweet flesh within. Beyond their taste, mussels are among the most environmentally responsible seafood options. They require no feed, thrive naturally in clean waters, and even improve water quality as they grow.

Sustainability of Mussels In Australia

The primary species farmed in Australia is the Blue Mussel, harvested sustainably from the pristine southern waters of South Australia, Tasmania, and Victoria. Valued for its delicate sweetness and versatility, the Blue Mussel is a standout example of responsible aquaculture.

As natural filter-feeders, mussels draw nutrients directly from the water, requiring no additional feed or chemicals — giving them an exceptionally low environmental footprint compared to fed aquaculture. In fact, Australian Blue Mussels are considered one of the most sustainably farmed seafoods in the world.

Mussels are typically grown using suspended culture techniques. Baby mussels, or spat, attach themselves to ropes or socks suspended from floating lines or buoys. Over 12–18 months, they grow plump and flavourful in sheltered, clean sea waters.

In Victoria’s Port Phillip Bay, thousands of mussels dangle beneath the surface, nourished by the cool, nutrient-rich currents until harvest. Sea Bounty Mussels, one of the region’s leading producers, farms approximately 1,000 tonnes annually and is certified organic — a shining example of how local aquaculture can blend sustainability and quality.

Australia’s mussel story is one of balance — local flavour, clean waters, and growing global recognition.

Mussels in Victoria

Living in Melbourne, I’ve become particularly fascinated by Victoria’s growing mussel industry — a story of innovation, sustainability, and local pride.

In 2023/24, Victoria produced around 1,700 tonnes of mussels, valued at approximately AU$6 million.

The Victorian Government recently invested AU$1.25 million to open 290 hectares of new aquaculture reserve waters, expected to boost production by around 700 tonnes.

Australia’s productivity growth is reflected in its evolving relationship with mussels, a humble seafood that’s making its mark on both the culinary scene and policy-making.

Environmental and Regulatory Considerations for Mussels

While mussel farming is generally regarded as sustainable, it’s not without challenges. Careful site selection and regulation are essential to avoid disrupting local ecosystems.

For example, in New South Wales, concerns have arisen about mussel larvae and invasive species spreading near conservation areas, such as the Jervis Bay Marine Park. These examples highlight the importance of thoughtful management to ensure mussel farming remains a net positive for marine environments.

Mussels in Italy: Tradition Meets Taste

Mussels, known as cozze, have long been a culinary and cultural staple in Italy. The country ranks among Europe’s largest producers of Mediterranean Mussels accounting for up to two-thirds of EU production.

According to Italy’s Multi-annual National Strategic Plans for Aquaculture (2021–2030), mussel farming dominates much of the country’s shellfish industry particularly in regions such as Emilia-Romagna Veneto and the Po Delta.

Sustainability of Mussels in Italy

While Italian mussel farming is relatively low-impact environmental considerations remain. The farming system also faces modern sustainability questions including plastic loss at sea, boat fuel usage and sediment build-up under farms.

Nonetheless mussels provide a valuable ecosystem service. In nutrient-rich waters they help remove nitrogen and phosphorus acting as natural filters that maintain ecological balance.

SHELLFISH SUSTAINABILITY IN AUSTRALIA AND ITALY

While Australian farms emphasise organic certification and clean waters Italian farms rely on long-tradition coastal heritage and high-volume production.

As consumers become more aware of how their food choices impact the planet, seafood sustainability has become an important focus. Mussels and other shellfish stand out as excellent examples of environmentally friendly seafood, offering nutritious, delicious meals that also help protect our oceans.

Mussels in Cuisine

Mussels are a versatile and delicious seafood celebrated in kitchens worldwide.

Due to Australia’s diverse food cultures, mussels are often prepared simply steamed with white wine, garlic and herbs. They are commonly served in pasta dishes or paella. Some recipes involve grilling them to open them, which is less common. A popular preparation is to steam them in coconut milk with lemongrass, chilli and fragrant herbs and spices. 

Mussels are a staple ingredient in Italian cuisine, featured in a wide variety of dishes including pasta, risotto, stuffed with breadcrumbs and in seafood and fish soups. Their briny juices are used to enhance the many versions of wet mussel dishes with various aromatic herbal sauces. This is also the  popular way that mussels are featured in other European cuisine.

In European cultures such as France, Greece and Spain, mussels are a prominent feature of culinary traditions, particularly in wet dishes served with rich herbal and fragrant sauces.

Shellfish in Cuisine

Shellfish hold an important place in both Australian and Italian cuisines, though they are celebrated in distinct ways. In Australia, fresh local shellfish such as oysters, mussels, and scallops are often enjoyed simply—grilled, steamed, or served raw to highlight their clean, ocean-fresh flavour.

Italian cuisine, on the other hand, weaves shellfish into regional dishes that showcase centuries of coastal tradition, from spaghetti alle vongole to seafood risottos and mixed fritto di mare. In both countries, shellfish embody the connection between coastal living, fresh ingredients, and a deep respect for the sea.

RISO CON GLI ANGELI, Rice with angels

This Sicilian-inspired shellfish recipe is a celebration of the sea—fresh, vibrant, and deeply rooted in both tradition and sustainability.  It is a recipe in my book called Sicilian Seafood Cooking. (Angels by PONTORMO)

Sicily is an island and this recipe draws on the island’s rich coastal heritage, it brings together the pure flavours of sustainably sourced shellfish with the bright, sun-soaked ingredients that define Sicilian cuisine – garlic, olive oil, and a touch of chilli.

Every element of this dish reflects respect for the ocean and the land, showcasing how responsible seafood choices can deliver both environmental benefits and unforgettable Mediterranean flavour. It’s a recipe that tastes as good as it feels—simple, elegant, and sustainably delicious.

Interesting Observations in Sicilian Cooking

In Sicilian cooking, grated cheese is used sparingly with seafood—if at all—but when it is, it’s done with intention. Rather than overpowering the delicate flavours of the sea, a light dusting of pecorino or aged ricotta is used to add a touch of richness and depth, reflecting the island’s bold yet balanced approach to flavour.

In Sicily, rice was traditionally cooked in a simpler, more rustic way—boiled or baked rather than stirred continuously as in northern Italian risotto. This method reflects the island’s practical, resourceful cooking style, where rice absorbed the flavours of local ingredients without the need for the labor-intensive, creamy texture typical of risotto.

Recipe: RISO CON GLI ANGELI, Rice with angels

Ingredients

400g cockles

400g mussels

3 cups arborio, carnaroli or vialone rice

3 cloves garlic, chopped

½ cup finely cut parsley

¾–1 cup extra virgin olive oil

200g (7oz) prawns, shelled and de-veined, cut into pieces; some left whole

200g (7oz) squid (small with tentacles), cut into slices

100g (3½oz) of one or a mixture of: crabs, lobster, Moreton bay bugs, scallops (optional)

grated pecorino

salt and red chilli flakes to taste

Method

Clean the cockles and mussels (see pages 84 and 87 in my book: Sicilian Seafood Cooking). Steam in a covered frying pan coated with a little oil. Once opened, shell them, but reserve some mussels in their shells. Cut up the flesh and save the juice.

While you are preparing the seafood, cook the rice (add the rice to plenty of rapidly boiling, salted water). Drain and place in serving bowl.

In a wide pan, sauté the garlic and parsley in extra virgin olive oil. Add prawns, squid (and any other seafood) and season. Stir for a few minutes, then add the clam juice. Toss for a few minutes without reducing the liquid.

Add mussels and cockles (shelled and unshelled) and heat through.

Mix the seafood with the rice. Arrange some mussels in their shells on top to look like angels with open wings. Serve with grated cheese.

MUSSELS IN TRIESTE and Mussel recipes

SPAGHETTINI E COZZE; Spaghettini with mussels

ZUPPA DI COZZE SGUSCIATE: A thick soup made with Mussel Meat

SPAGHETTI WITH CRAYFISH OR CRAB (Spaghetti con Aragosta o Granco)

 

THE HUMBLE SARDINE, A SUSTAINABLE CHOICE

The humble sardine is one of the ocean’s most sustainable seafood choices.

Sardines are small, oily fish that have been a staple coastal communities for centuries and should be celebrated. 

This post explores why sardines remain one of the ocean’s most sustainable seafood choices. It celebrates their history, flavour and environmental value, from Australia’s well-managed fisheries to Sicily’s cultural traditions and classic recipes.

SARDINE FISHING IN AUSTRALIA

In Australia, the native Sardinops sagax (often called pilchard) thrives in well-managed fisheries, particularly off South Australia especially from Port Lincoln . The fishery uses purse‐seine nets (rather than bottom trawling) and catch‐limits/quota management are in place These stocks are carefully monitored under strict quotas and have Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) certification for sustainability. Recent surveys estimate healthy biomass levels, confirming that Australian sardines remain both abundant and responsibly harvested,  a shining example of how science-based management can keep a fishery plentiful. Most of the catch in South Australia is used for fish feed (e.g., for tuna aquaculture) rather than direct human consumption.

Sardines are also fished off the Western Australian coast (Fremantle) and south coast (Albany).

SARDINE FISHING IN SICILY

Across the world in Sicily, sardines (Sardina pilchardus) are deeply woven into the island’s culinary traditions. Salted sardines are packed under sea salt and in oil and freshly grilled catches are served along the coast. However, the picture in the Mediterranean is more complex: while Sicilian fishers have worked these waters for generations, scientific assessments show local sardine populations face pressure from warming seas and high fishing intensity.

Syracuse, fishing boats

Ongoing research projects in Sicily are focused on restoring balance and ensuring future sustainability, reflecting both the cultural importance and ecological fragility of this common fish. A more accurate statement would be that they are culturally important, under study for sustainable management, but stocks may be under pressure.

SARDINE FISHING IN TRIESTE

As a child I lived in Trieste, on the northern Adriatic, sardines (sardoni in local dialect) have long been a staple of everyday cooking and seaside culture. They’re enjoyed most often crumbed and fried (sardoni impanai), grilled, or marinated with onions and vinegar in the Venetian-style in saor.

Trieste, Ponte Rosso

The shallow, nutrient-rich Gulf of Trieste has traditionally provided plentiful sardine and anchovy catches, though supplies today fluctuate with the season and fishing conditions. Despite this, sardines remain a defining taste of Triestine cuisine and a link between the city’s Central European character and its Adriatic setting.

TALE OF THREE REGIONS

Together, these regions tell a story of contrast and care: in Australia, sardines represent a model of modern, sustainable abundance, while in Italy, they embody heritage and a need for careful stewardship.

Many Australians are put off by the bold flavour of anchovies, but they are a quick-to-prepare, endlessly versatile and nutritionally beneficial food. The Italian recipes are steeped in cultural history and tradition, resulting in numerous preparation methods including raw and marinated, soused, baked, sautéed, fried, as part of pasta dishes, simple grills, canned and salted. The humble sardine remains a delicious, nutrient-rich, and environmentally conscious choice.

Some photos are from my book: Sicilian Seafood Cooking. Photogarpher Graeme Gillies, Stylist Fiona Rigg

RECIPES FROM ALL THINGS SICILIAN AND MORE:

A TASTE OF PALERMO: Pasta con le Sarde

PASTA CON LE SARDE (SARDINES)

Pasta con le Sarde – Pasta with sardines, Sicilian

SARDINES, grilled or barbecued with Sicilian dressings

PASTA CON SARDE; the baked version, Palermo, Sicily

PASTA WITH SARDINES AND PEAS (PASTA CA NOCCA – PASTA COI FIOCCHI)

FILETTI DI SARDINE CON VINO E LIMONE (Sardines with wine)

LAYERED SARDINES (CROSTATA DI SARDINE)

SARDE A BECCAFICO (Sardines stuffed with currants, pine nuts, sugar and nutmeg)

PASTA CON LE SARDE (Pasta with sardines, from Palermo, made with fennel, pine nuts and currants)

SARDINE, CRUDE E CONDITE ; raw and marinaded)

MARINADED FISH and a recipe for PESCE IN SAOR  (TRIESTINE FOOD)

FISH STUDDED WITH FLAVOURS

Fish cutlets (or portions) studded with flavours (herbs and spices) is something that I make quite often and is a versatile dish that keeps on evolving. I began this recipe by inserting Sicilian flavours – cinnamon, cloves, lemon peel, garlic, fennel, oregano, parsley, and degalzing the fish with dry Marsala and then the recipe evolved from there.

The beauty of this dish is its adaptability—I can’t recall ever making it the same way twice! Each time I prepare it, I change the flavours I use to insert into the fish and it becomes a new taste sensation each time. Whether it’s herbs, different spices, or different types of liquids to deglaze, the possibilities are endless.

For instance, I love using herbs, which vary depending on the season. And when it comes to deglazing the pan, I  use anything from a splash of wine (or other alcohol), to stock . And the result is a dish that feels new with every iteration.

There is a recipe for this style of cooking in my book Sicilian Seafood Cooking –  Tunnu Ammuttunatu (Sicilian) or Pesce Staccato e con Marsala (Italian) and in English, it translates to Tuna Studded with Flavours and Braised in Marsala.

Over the years, I’ve made subtle adjustments to the recipe, fine-tuning it to match my evolving tastes, the people I am feeding and the ingredients available.

I also have another related recipe in this blog where I used Trevally as the fish: it is a perfect example of how adaptable this method can be.

Recently, I experimented with mackerel, adding capers to deglaze the pan (some of my guests do not drink alcohol), but the capers added an extra layer of briny taste. Pretty good and different again.

Here’s the original recipe from my book, Sicilian Seafood Cooking:

Tunnu ammuttunatu
Pesce steccato e con marsala
Fish, studded with flavours and braised in marsala

I like to use a whole fillet of fish, which I estimate will feed no more than
four people when cut into portions. For more people, I buy two fillets.

I like to serve this very pink in the centre, but it will not suffer if it is cooked longer, as done in Sicily. Long whole fillets will not cook evenly and can be adventageous as it provides well cooked and rare tuna eaters a choice.

Individual portions of large fish or tuna can also be studded and cooked in this manner.

Stud the flesh with one or more flavours – garlic (halved), cloves, a
cinnamon stick (broken into small pieces) – and a herb, (mint, rosemary
or oregano).

Below, various cuts of tuna in an open Sicilian market in Acireale, north of Catania.

Ingredients

1-1.2kg tuna fillet
1 cup dry marsala

flavourings (see intro)
1/2 to1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
3 fresh bay leaves
mint leaves for serving

Processes

Use a knife with a long thin blade and make a number of deep, regularly
spaced slits in the fillet. Insert flavourings (see above) into each slit. When
you cut the fillet into portions, each portion should have four slits.

Heat oil in a pan and seal the fish on all sides. Add marsala and bay
leaves and reduce slightly, cover and braise over low heat. Add more
marsala (or water) if the dish is drying out.

A fillet of four portions cooks in about 15–20 minutes. To test, insert a metal skewer into the centre – if it is done the skewer will be just warm to the touch. If it feels cool, cook
for a little longer.

Place the fish on a large platter, pour over the sauce and scatter with mint.

And if you’re interested in exploring the Trevally version, here’s the link to the full recipe on my blog:

FISH STUDDED WITH SICILIAN FLAVOURS

SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD, current information and recipes

Sustainable Seafood Choices: Making the Right Decisions, Christmas 2024.

For many people who live in Australia seafood is a staple during the Christmas  and New Year period. This may come as a suprise but, with over 6 million kilograms of prawns consumed each year during this time, it’s important to be mindful of the environmental impact of our choices.

It also a good idea to check labels for fish, for example I only buy Australian seafood and there are many reasons to buy Australian seafood – sustainability, environmental impact and quality. Australian seafood producers often have  sustainability certifications from the Marine Stewardship Council and Aquaculture Stewardship Council. 

Whether it’s prawns, oysters, or a beautiful whole fish, for most Australians it appears that the Christmas and New Year’s festive season wouldn’t feel the same without some seafood.

Not only Italians, but people of different cultures who have a Catholic background abstain from eating meat on Christmas Eve, and fish is a preferred choice.

In recent years, it has been beneficial to see information via the media guiding shoppers to make more informed, sustainable seafood choices. This is crucial not only to protect marine species, but also to ensure that we’re supporting seafood industries that are committed to the health of our oceans.

Here’s a summary of some important information and guidance from what i have read and heard on sustainable seafood in the last few weeks. Hopefully it  may help us make the right choices this holiday season. I have also included some seafood recipes at the end of this post.

The Environmental Impact of Seafood Consumption

As the demand for seafood grows, so do the pressures on our oceans and marine life, with issues like bycatch, pollution, and unsustainable farming practices becoming more widespread.

Australia’s appetite for seafood during the Christmas season has a significant environmental cost. For instance, the production of prawns can lead to habitat destruction, pollution, and unsustainable fishing practices, all of which harm marine ecosystems. Bycatch – the capture of non-target species – is a major concern, and certain farming practices, particularly for prawns, have been linked to sea bed deforestation and high pollution levels.

One of the most reliable resources for navigating the complexities of sustainable seafood is the Australian Marine Conservation Society’s GoodFish Guide, which provides helpful advice on what to buy, and what to avoid, based on the sustainability of fishing methods and farm practices.

Just like the tureen above making the right choice can be confusing, What may be sustainable in one country, state or location, will not be sustainable in another. And also, what was sustainable last year may not be on the good choice list this year. And while we are discussing changes, I have been promoting wild caught fish for many years but now, I am not so sure about making generalisations! It all depends on the fishery. (Unfortunately, I cannot remember what Art Gallery in NY this photo was from.)

Unsustainable Choices to Avoid

Some popular seafood items are unfortunately not as environmentally friendly as  promoted. This year I have been hearing strong criticism about Tasmanian salmon. Mind you, many of us already knew this, but lately the views expressed in the media have been particularly damming.

The GoodFish Guide advises against purchasing farm-raised Tasmanian salmon that has been linked to high pollution levels in the waters where it’s farmed depriving other fish of oxygen.Tasmania’s salmon farming industry has been controversial due to environmental damage, animal welfare concerns, and a lack of regulation. Salmon farming has led to dead zones in Macquarie Harbour due to low oxygen levels, and has impacted the Macquarie Harbour Wilderness World Heritage Area.

There are warnings about the potential extinction of the Maugean skate, a rare species found only in Tasmania,

There are between 40 and 120 adult Maugean skate left on the planet, and the federal government’s threatened species committee said in August 2024 the best way to save the endangered fish was to eliminate or at least dramatically cut back on salmon farming in its habitat.
The committee said there was a ‘significant correlation’ between low oxygen levels and an increase in salmon farming. Farmed fish suck up a lot of the oxygen in the water, while fish food and faeces that enter the water via the salmon pens feed oxygen-consuming bacteria causing extreme degradation of marine ecosystems surrounding these farms.
Another seafood to avoid is imported vannamei prawns (also known as white leg shrimp), commonly sourced from countries like Vietnam. These prawns are often farmed in ways that cause significant environmental damage, including water pollution and the destruction of mangroves. Furthermore, prawn farming in these regions is notorious for its high use of antibiotics and chemicals, which can harm local biodiversity and contaminate waterways.

Sustainable Alternatives for Christmas Seafood

But there are plenty of sustainable seafood options available that won’t compromise the environmental values or budget.

One great alternative offered is Australian salmon, which is native to the region and is typically caught using low-impact, sustainable methods. Unlike farmed Tasmanian salmon, wild-caught Australian salmon has a much smaller environmental footprint and provides a local, sustainable option for your Christmas feast. I have included some notes and a recipe about this fish towards the end of this post.

Farm-raised Australian prawns – especially varieties like black tiger and banana prawns – are an excellent sustainable option. These prawns are farmed in environmentally controlled systems with a much lower impact than their imported counterparts. They are often cheaper than wild-caught prawns because of lower labor costs and can be just as tasty. Additionally, some of Australia’s Spencer Gulf prawns are both affordable and sustainable, making them an excellent choice for a Christmas seafood platter.

Another more sustainable option is farm-raised barramundi. While wild-caught barramundi, particularly those caught using destructive gillnets, is often considered harmful to marine life, farmed barramundi has a far less damaging environmental impact. The Australian barramundi farming industry is highly regulated, ensuring that practices meet high environmental and animal welfare standards.

Wild-Caught vs. Farmed: Navigating the Choices

In the face of these sustainability challenges, it’s also important to consider the difference between wild-caught and farmed seafood. Both have their pros and cons. Wild-caught fish can suffer from overfishing and bycatch, especially when fisheries are poorly managed. However, Australian fisheries are typically subject to strict regulations, which means that wild-caught Australian species like prawns, barramundi, and rock lobster are generally more sustainable than wild-caught seafood from other regions.

Farmed seafood, on the other hand, can be more environmentally friendly if the farming practices are responsible. In fact, well-managed fish farms can actually have a smaller carbon footprint and less environmental impact than some forms of wild-caught fishing. It’s key to check where and how the seafood is farmed. Sustainable farms use environmentally responsible practices such as efficient feed management, waste control, and low-impact farming systems.

Sustainable Seafood: Affordable Options for Every Budget

Sustainable seafood can sometimes be more expensive, but there are affordable options available. For example, Australian salmon and farmed prawns are not only eco-friendly choices but are also budget-friendly compared to some of their imported or wild-caught alternatives. By opting for these, we can support local industries and make a real difference in the health of our oceans.

This Christmas, consider making a conscious decision to choose sustainable options. Not only will you be making a positive impact on the environment, but you’ll also be supporting Australia’s local fishing and farming communities, ensuring that these industries remain viable for future generations.

In summary, being an informed seafood consumer doesn’t have to be difficult. By using resources like the GoodFish guide and prioritising sustainable Australian seafood, we can all enjoy delicious meals that are kind to the planet.

From Australian salmon and farmed prawns to sustainably farmed barramundi, there are plenty of options that are both eco-friendly and affordable. It’s about making smarter choices, so that we can continue to enjoy the bounty of the ocean – without compromising its future.

Recipes

Not all sustainable seafood is mentioned in what I have read or listened to. For example squid, mussels and sardines have always been on the better choice list. Explore the options:

GoodFish Guide

There are many recipes for Mussels, Squid and Sardines on my blog, far too many to list here. Here are just a few.

MUSSELS, three ways: in brodetto, with spaghetti and in a risotto with saffron

NDUJA, SQUID, VONGOLE AND PAN GRATTATO with Spaghetti

GRILLED CALAMARI (CALAMARI ‘NTA BRACI (Sicilian) – CALAMARI ALLA BRACE (Italian)

SARDINES, grilled or barbecued with Sicilian dressings

There are far too many recipes for seafood on my blog (pasta, rice, raw, cooked in various ways), but this link could be helpful:

LA VIGILIA (Christmas Eve revisited)

This year, Australian salmon seems to feature strongly as a sustainable choice. This fish was abundant in South Australia where I lived for many years and I am used to cooking it. But because it is a strong tasting fish, I would recommend baking it  whole or filleted and using strong flavours like anchovies, garlic and onion.  The flavour of this fish also responds to strong tasting herbs. I would never cook it by steaming or enveloping with foil to bake; it is far too fishy, even for me.

BAKED FISH WITH POTATOES, VINEGAR and ANCHOVIES

Cooking Autralian salmon on a grill on the BBQ will also suit this fish. The charred flavour will mask the fishy taste of the fish and enhance the flavour. Think of sardines on the BBQ and how delicious they are when cooked this way.

Strong tasting sauces will complement the taste of the fish.
And consider using strong tasting herbs and plenty of them, either when cooking  strong tasting fish or for the sauces.

SARDINES, grilled or barbecued with Sicilian dressings

PASTA CON LE SARDE (SARDINES)  (strong flavours – fennel, saffron, currants)

SAUCES for meat, fish and vegetables to brighten up your Christmas

Enjoy cooking, eating, sharing and talking about food!

(TUNA BALLS ) and other tuna recipes

Tuna balls —known as Polpette di Tonno in Italy and Purpetti di Tunnu in Sicily—are a delightful twist on the classic meatball, shaped in a variety of sizes and infused with an array of irresistible flavors of tradition and creativity as with their meaty counterparts. In this case Sicilian flavours.

Below is a photo of tuna and sword fish (on the left) as sold in a fish market in Sicily. Notice the different cuts.

Tuna is widely eaten and appreciated in Sicily and in this post I have aslo included other recipes for Tuna.

They can be fried and eaten plain with a squeeze of lemon juice, poached in a tomato salsa or in an agro dolce sauce.

The photo below was taken by the photographer Graeme Gillies and styled by Fiona Rigg from my cookbook Sicilian Seafood Cooking.

You may think that using tuna for mincing and making into balls is far too extravagant, but Albocore tuna is more sustainable and economical. It is usually sold cut into vertical slices.

Below is another photo of Albacore tuna,  a recipe for tuna studded with various flavours. I often use Mackerel or Hapuka for this recipe.

The photo below was taken by the photographer Graeme Gillies and styled by Fiona Rigg from my cookbook Sicilian Seafood Cooking.

I have often bought Albacore tuna in Adelaide filleted and cut into cutlets. Unfortunately I have never found these excellent cuts of Albacore tuna in Melbourne.

The following recipe is for 6 people

Fish balls in tomato salsa

INGREDIENTS

tuna, 600gr, all skin and sinews removed
breadcrumbs, made from fresh bread, 1 cup
milk, ¼ cup
eggs, 2 lightly beaten
currants, 2 tablespoons
pine nuts, 2 tablespoons
salt and freshly ground black pepper
flour or fine toasted breadcrumbs to coat the fish balls
extra virgin olive oil, 1¼ cup or more
tomatoes, 500g, peeled and chopped (or a can)
parsley, 2 tablespoons
rosemary, ½ teaspoon finely cut
basil, fresh, loose leaves
white wine, 1 cup
garlic cloves, 2
extra virgin olive oil, 1 cup

PROCESSES

Cut tuna into chunks and remove any dark bits of the flesh.
Mince the tuna – pass through meat grinder or use food processor.
Soak fresh breadcrumbs in milk and squeeze dry.

Make fishballs:

Combine, tuna, fresh breadcrumbs, eggs, parsley, seasoning and 1 tablespoon of each of the currants and pine nuts.

Form into fish balls and roll each one lightly in flour and shake off any excess.

Heat ¾ cup of extra virgin olive oil in a fry pan and using a slotted spoon, carefully lower the balls into the hot oil and cook until they are a light golden brown (about 2 minutes). Do not overcrowd them, it is better to cook them in batches and give them room to fry.

Remove with a slotted spoon and leave to drain on paper towels.

For the tomato salsa:

Heat, ¼ cup of extra virgin olive oil in a separate pan. It needs to be large enough to accommodate the polpette as well as the salsa.

Add the garlic and cook until it is lightly golden.

Place the tomatoes, rosemary, the rest of the currants and pine nuts and seasoning into the pan.

Include the polpette and braise for about 8 to 10 minutes.

Add the white wine and fresh basil leaves (if in season) and leave uncovered till the sauce is thick and the polpette are cooked.

Serve hot.

Fish balls in agro dolce

Instead of using pine nuts and currants in the mixture, you could select to add some grated lemon peel, a little cinnamon and some chopped spring onions or mint.

Fry the fish balls I some oil, drain the access oil and return the purpetti to the fry pan. Add  a couple of fresh bay leaves, two tablespoons of sugar, ½ cup of vinegar and ½ cup of white wine. Heat, allow the liquid to evaporate.  Add ½ cup of water, swirl around it in the pan to deglaze all of those good flavours and serve.

I have made many fishballs of various sized and many times using different types of fish.

FISH BALLS IN SALSA – POLPETTE DI PESCE (PURPETTI in Sicilian)

FISH BALLS with Sicilian flavours

FISH STUDDED WITH SICILIAN FLAVOURS

TONNO AL AGRO DOLCE; Sweet and sour tuna, Sicilian; ALBACORE TUNA

HAPUKA(fish)WITH SICILIAN FLAVOURS

TUNNU `A STIMPIRATA; TONNO ALLA STEMPERATA (Tuna with onions, vinegar, capers and green olives)

TONNO E PISELLI (Tuna and peas)

TONNO (Tuna, albacore)

 

LA VIGILIA (Christmas Eve revisited)

I prefer the Christmas celebration to be on Christmas Eve, it is called La Vigilia (the Vigil) in Italian.

In Sicily, as in many parts of Italy, the Christmas Eve celebration is deeply rooted in Catholicism and tradition, of fasting and abstaining from meat. One of the most cherished customs is sharing a festive meal with family and friends on La Vigilia. This meal features fish, and/ or vegetarian content.

IMG_3148

I originally wrote this post on December 20, 2012, to share the types of Sicilian fish dishes I might cook here in Australia on Christmas Eve (or during the festive period).

The traditions and recipes are just as relevant today and I still cook them, so I’m bringing it back to the spotlight for another festive season!

CHRISTMAS RECIPES with a Sicilian theme and “Feast of the Seven Fishes.”

The photos below are from Fish Markets in Sicily – Catania, Syracuse and Palermo.  Three of these photos were included in my book, Sicilian Seafood Cooking (Published 2011).

Below are some excellent photographs of the food I cooked in my very small kitchen. The credit goes to the New Holland photographer, Graeme Gillies, and the food stylist Fiona Rigg – their team work and attention to detail is obvious when you look at the photos of the food.

The link below includes many Sicilian recipes of fish.

See recipes for:

TONNO CUNZATO – Raw Marinated Tuna

RAVIOLI DI RICOTTA CU NIURU DI SICCI – Ricotta Ravioli With Black Ink Sauce

RISO CON GLI ANGELI – Rice with angels

SPAGHETTI CON L ’ARAGOSTA – Spaghetti with crayfish

CALAMARETTI RIPIENI CON MARSALA E MANDORLE – Stuffed calamari with fresh cheese, almonds and nutmeg braised in marsala

PESCE INFORNATO CON PATATE – Baked fish with potatoes, vinegar and anchovies

A SEAFOOD CHRISTMAS Feast with Fran Kelly; RADIO NATIONAL BREAKFAST PROGRAMME

 

PARMIGIANA, uncomplicated

When I first came to Australia with my parents (1956), eggplants (aubergines/ melanzane in Italian) were non-existent commercially in Adelaide and probably in the rest of Australia.  I remember friends moving to Canberra in the 80’s and they had to order eggplants from the Sydney markets.

Like so many vegetables that were unfamiliar in Australia, it took a few seed smugglers some time before eggplants were grown in home gardens, and even more years before they were found in produce markets and green grocers’ shops.

Now of course, there are many types of seeds that have been imported legally into Australia and sold in many Italian produce stores.

There are Asian varieties of eggplants as well as the Mediterranean ones in Australia. Trade and migration has made eggplants a typical Mediterranean plant, but they originated from the south-east Asia and in particular from India and China.

Eggplants come in different shapes and sizes – long, thin, wide, round, small and large and they cam be grown commercially as well as successfully in most home gardens . (The eggplant above is grown in my son’s home garden in Adelaide).

The colour of eggplants range from the traditional dark purple types through to violet, lavender, pink, green and creamy-white varieties. There are also variegated types.

When I think of eggplants, I think of Sicily where the most intense cultivation takes place in Italy.

Sicily has the highest numbers of eggplants in terms of cultivation and production; they are available at all times of the year because they can be grown in serre (greenhouses) in all seasons especially in the Ragusa area, where my father’s relatives are based.

And Sicily is where some of the most famous recipes for Italian eggplant dishes initiated, for example:  Eggplant Caponata from Palermo, Pasta alla Norma from Catania and Parmigiana di Melazane (Eggplant Parmigiana) with some slight variations from all over Sicily.

Parmigiana is now one of the best-known and widespread dishes of Italian cuisine but its origin is disputed between the regions of Sicily, Campania and Emilia-Romagna. However I have always believed Parmigiana to be Sicilian. Since I was a young child I have eaten many servings of Parmigiana cooked by family and friends, in homes and in restaurants all over Sicily and I support the theory that it is a Sicilian specialty.

Parmigiana is what I am going to write about in this post.

Recently a friend (and an excellent home cook) prepared Yotem Ottolenghi’s Aubergine Dumplings Alla Parmigiana, from the book Flavor. It was a marvellous dinner and I enjoyed eating these vegetarian meatballs very much.

The ingredients for Ottolenghi’s recipe are cubed eggplants, roasted till soft and caramelized, then mashed and mixed with herbs and spices, ricotta, Parmesan, basil, bound with eggs, breadcrumbs and flour. While the mixture rests, a tomato salsa needs to be made, the dumplings are fried and then baked in the tomato salsa.

When I looked at Ottolenghi’s recipe, I was amazed at just how many steps have to be covered compared with the time it would take to cook the traditional Parmigiana. A few days later a friend came to dinner and I made a simple Parmigiana.

I baked the eggplants this time rather than fried them..

Made the tomato salsa.

Proceeded to layer the salsa, eggplants, grated cheese and because the Ottoleghi recipe had ricotta, and because ricotta seems to have become an addition to the traditional Parmigiana recipe all over the web, I also added ricotta between the layers.

What it looked like before I placed it in the oven.

And I presented the Parmigiana with roast peppers and a green salad.

I don’t know how long my version took, but it tasted good.

Parmigiana can also be made with fried zucchini.

Parmigiana can also be made with fried zucchini. It is worth cooking it.

**** I  first wrote a post on my blog in 2009 about how the name of the recipe originated and recipe of a traditional Parmigiana. The recipe is also in my book Sicilian Seafood Cooking.  The background information about Parmigiana is  fascinating. The post is worth reading:

EGGPLANT or ZUCCHINI PARMIGIANA

PASTA CON LE SARDE (SARDINES)

Pasta Con Le Sarde (sardines) can only be a Sicilian dish.

Sardines are plentiful, so is the wild fennel (it is seasonal), and most Sicilians eat pasta in some form, every day.

The flavours and ingredients of pine nuts, saffron and currants are said to have been introduced by the Arabs.

Breadcrumbs toasted in a fry pan with a little bit of olive oil are popular in Sicily as a topping or dressing – called muddica/ mollica/pan grattato, it is sprinkled on pasta instead of grated cheese, and some vegetable dishes like Parmigiana di Melanzane (eggplants), Caponata, fried peppers (Peperonata), and Sfincione (a type of regional pizza) .

And I make Pasta Con Le Sarde when I know I can impress friends, those who appreciate being impressed.

Accept that not everyone likes sardines or fancy the idea of wild fennel. The photo below shows how some bunches of wild fennel are sold in Sicilian markets.

Over the years I don’t just toast the breadcrumbs in the frypan (made bread that’s several days old); I  also add a little cinnamon, a tiny bit of sugar and grated lemon peel. The lemon flavour really makes this pasta topping even more special. Sometimes I also add pine nuts to the pan.

Bucatini is the pasta I prefer – it’s slightly larger than spaghetti, long and hollow, like a tube.

But last time I made Pasta Con Le Sarde, I did use spaghetti. You can see how many pine nuts I sprinkled on top before folding them into the pasta. In a traditional dish there would be fewer.

Most of the time my Pasta Con Le Sarde looks like pretty ordinary, but still tastes magnificent. Sometimes I also add chopped, roasted almonds. Looking at this photo below can see that not all the almonds were chopped!

It is sometimes difficult to find wild fennel that is healthy looking or in season, so  sometimes I do add a fresh fennel bulb.

Below the photo shows fennel and onion sauté-ing (if there is such a word!)

This is followed by the addition of saffron, wild fennel and currants.

If I can get sufficient wild fennel I use it in the boiling water to flavour the pasta. The stalks from fresh fennel also work. Simply cook the stalks or wild fennel in the water and remove them before adding the pasta to cook.

Although Sardines are easy to clean, sardines are also sold as fillets.

I have written about Pasta Con Le Sarde before.

PASTA CON LE SARDE, Iconic Sicilian made easy

PASTA CON LE SARDE, an iconic Sicilian recipe from Palermo. Cooked at Slow Food Festival Melbourne

PASTA CON SARDE; the baked version, Palermo, Sicily

WILD FENNEL and photos

PASTA WITH BREADCRUMBS, anchovies and fennel (Pasta cca muddica)

From my book, Sicilian Seafood Cooking.