According to my Sicilian relatives, only Sicilians know how to cook baccalà. Having lived in Trieste (north Italy), I was very familiar with this fish that is cooked in a variety of ways in this region. I particularly like baccalà mantecato, (boiled cod fish and then whipped or beaten with oil and garlic – one of the most representative recipes in Venetian cuisine). I tried to introduce my Sicilian relatives to this once, but they were not interested. Sicilians are particularly conservative about food that isn’t theirs.
Baccalà mantecato is not easily found in restaurants (most restaurants in Australia cook Southern Italian food) but I have eaten it at Guy Grossi’s, The Merchant –an osteria in Melbourne with typical food from the north-east of Italy. The menu is presented. Most of the food is presented as cichetti— bite-sized morsels.
I do like the food and it brings back many childhood memories, including the Veneto dialect used for the names of the offerings on the menu (very similar to that spoken in Trieste) .
Baccalà mantecato, has the thickness of a creamy, mashed potato. The fish is served cold and when I ate it in my youth we always spread it on crostini – thin slices of white bread, lightly fried till crisp in extra virgin olive oil. We never ate it as a main course and usually we did the spreading and passed it around to guests while they drank an aperitivo. Needless to say, a glass of prosecco or soave is a good accompaniment.
There are various recipes for how to make this and not all add milk. I was taught that the milk sweetened the taste and helped to preserve the white colour – I have so much accepted wisdom that I need to re-evaluate.
Thick pieces of salt cod (cut from the centre) are best. Leave the skin, but cut away fins and obvious bones. Cut into serving size pieces (7- 10cm). Rinse well in running water before soaking for 36-48 hours (over soaking will not spoil the fish, especially if the pieces of baccalà are thick). Keep it covered in a bowl in the fridge. Change the water at least 4-5 times.
INGREDIENTS baccalà, 800g, pre soaked
garlic, 1-2 cloves chopped very finely (I use a garlic press)
extra virgin olive oil, at least 1 cup
bay leaf, 1
parsley, finely chopped 1-2 tablespoons
milk, 2 litres
water, 1 litre
Cover the pre soaked baccalà with cold water and milk, and bring it slowly to the boil. Add salt and a bay leaf.
Simmer gently for 30- 40 mins. Allow it to rest and cool in the liquid.
Remove the fish from the poaching liquid, pick out all the bones and remove the skin. Use a fork to break the flesh into small pieces.
Place fish in a bowl and add the garlic and about ½ cup of extra virgin olive oil. Begin to beat the fish with a wooden spoon and keep on adding oil as you would if you were making mayonnaise by hand. The mixture will look like a thick, white, fluffy cream. Keep on adding oil until the mixture will not absorb any more – it may absorb 1-1½ cups of oil.
The photograph of baccalà montecato was one of the entrées presented a couple of years ago as part of The Melbourne Food and Wine Festival; the event was called Around Italy in 7 Days – Travel north to south with a different gastronomic journey each night. Massimiliano Ferraiuolo was the chef (originally from Naples) who was visiting from Italy for a week’s residence at Society Restaurant and cooking each evening. (This was the evening to celebrate food from the north of Italy). It was presented on a bed of mashed fresh peas with black toasted bread (black squid ink was used in the bread mixture), sprinkled with paprika, toasted almonds and a red autumn leaf .