TRADITIONAL FOOD – Festive Season

Italian traditional and regional recipes for the upcoming festive season.

Usually my month of December is just so busy that I don’t have time to investigate new recipes and I tend to rely on old favourites that I can cook with my eyes closed. Some of these old favourites are: Pasta Con Le Sarde; Baccalà cooked in various ways; a Risotto or Pasta with squid and black ink with green peas; Mussels/ Cozze; Tuna/Tonno steaks also cooked in different ways: Insalata Russa; Grilled seasonal vegetables/ Verdura all griglia like zucchini, peppers and eggplants; and for dessert, there is either Zuppa Inglese with Arkemes (Alchermes) or a Sicilian Cassata., made with ricotta.

You will find all of these recipes on my blog.

This year I am in Adelaide for Christmas. I had given my family in Adelaide some options of what I could cook for Christmas Eve, but they all asked for two old favourites –  Baccalà Mantecato and Caponata Catanese as part of the antipasti….. same old, same old.

The Baccalà Mantecato is from the Veneto region in Italy and something that was very common in Trieste (Friuli-Venezia Giulia) where my parents and I lived when I was a child.  The baccalà is soaked in water for 3 days, then poached in milk, bay and a couple of garlic cloves, drianed and creamed with extra virgin oilve oil. It is spread on crostini – bread brushed with oil and toasted. The crostini my mother made were toased in a frypan and never in the oven. Crostini made with polenta are also favourites… but who has the time?

In the photo below is the soaked baccalà.

The Caponata Catanese is from Catania in Sicily.  Unlike the Caponata from Palermo that is made with eggplants. This version is made with peppers as well as eggplants and the usual caponata ingredients of green olives, celery, a bit of tomato paste and the agro-dolce, (a sweet and sour sauce). This is topped with pine nuts and basil.

So let’s just share a recipe for Christmas, but remember that at this time of year it is hot in Australia (because it is summer), if it is winter where you are, you may not even consider cooking it. It is braised lentils cooked wit Cotechino…..Cotechino con le lenticchie.

Although I would never serve this at midnight as was customary in some parts of Emilia-Romagna where the dish originates, it is an interesting choice. The Cotechino is a rich seasoned pork sausage that I poach with the lentils. The thick  sausage is then sliced and served on top of a bed of braised lentils.

The green lentils that resemble the shape of coins are intended to bring you prosperity in the New Year.

COTECHINO AND LENTILS; NEW YEAR’S EVE and CHRISTMAS

New Year’s Eve Baccalà Mantecato

BACCALÀ MANTECATO, risotto

CAPONATA recipes:

THE MANY VERSIONS OF CAPONATE

CAPONATA Catanese (from Catania) made easy with photos

CAPONATA FROM PALERMO (made with eggplants)

CAPONATA DI NATALE (Christmas, winter caponata made with celery, almonds and sultanas)

A MOUNTAIN OF CAPONATA: two days before Christmas

Photos of the caponata cooked in Melbourne and brought to Adelaide. Once again I used my heavy large wok to cook each of the vegetables separately.

MARINETTI Filippo Tommaso, futurist, frequented a bar in Bologna

In Bologna, I visited Café Marinetti, where Filippo Tommaso Marinetti who started the Futurist Movement, hung out with his futurist friends and discussed the evils of eating pasta.

Café Marinetti was once called a Bar.

In Italy, “bar” and “caffè” (only one f in the Marinetti Café ) are often used interchangeably. A bar is usually an informal place serving coffee, pastries and alcohol throughout the day, while a caffè may suggest a more traditional or elegant setting. Both are important social spaces where locals

Ironically, Marinetti’s attack on pasta helped make Futurist cooking famous. Although most of the culinary ideas were never widely adopted, the movement anticipated later interests in experimental gastronomy, food presentation and the idea that dining could be a form of artistic performance.

I did not expect to find Café Marinetti, to be part of a Grand Hotel.

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The towers in Bologna.
Grand Hotel Majestic  – Café Marinetti

Café Marinetti is located in the Grand Hotel Majestic “Gia Baglioni”. It is an 18th-century palazzo across the street from the Cattedrale Metropolitana di San Pietro and only a 5-minute walk from the Towers of Bologna.

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The hotel is decorated with Baroque details, expensive paintings and photographs of famous visiting celebrities – Frank Sinatra, Eva Gardner, Princess Diana, Sting, Bruce Springsteen and others. It has continued to be famous.

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Famous personalities, guests in the Hotel.

The hotel is very luxurious  and when was entering there was a Bentley, a Ferrari and a sports BMW collecting and dropping off guests.

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Café Marinetti is frequented by well heeled guests as I imagine it was then during Marinetti’s time.

But who was Marinetti?

Filippo Tommaso Marinetti (1876–1944) was an Italian poet, writer, editor and someone who loved to stir things up, best known for starting the Futurist movement—one of the most daring artistic and cultural movements of the early 20th century. Born in Alexandria, Egypt, to Italian parents, Marinetti went to school in Paris and made some pretty good connections with both French and Italian writers.

Back in 1909, he put out the famous Manifesto of Futurism on the front page of the French newspaper Le Figaro. This manifesto was all about celebrating speed, machines, technology, young people and modern city life, while saying goodbye to old traditions. Marinetti and the Futurists were big fans of cars, factories, electricity and movement, thinking that modern life needed a whole new way of making art. They loved trying new things in poetry, painting, sculpture, architecture, music and theatre.

Marinetti is still a pretty important person in modern European culture because Futurism really shaped modern art, graphic design, advertising, typography, architecture and avant-garde literature all over the 20th century.

Manifesto of Futurist Cooking 

Filippo Tommaso Marinetti gained a bit of a reputation for his pasta-bashing, seeing it as a symbol of Italy’s hold on tradition and what he thought was a cultural lull. In the 1930 Manifesto of Futurist Cooking, co-authored with a painter called Fillìa.

Marinetti claimed that pasta made Italians sluggish, gloomy and slow. He thought modern Italians should eat foods that mirrored speed, energy, machinery and innovation—the very essence of Futurism.

Marinetti suggested swapping pasta for more experimental dishes made from meat, veggies, essences, textures and dramatic presentation. Futurist banquets often turned into shows, with wild flavour combinations, tactile experiences and even scents designed to tickle all the senses. I have seen copies of this book  and can confirm that some dishes had intentionally strange names and presentations meant to shock diners and shake up culinary norms.

His pasta-hating campaign really stirred things up in Italy, where pasta was a big part of regional identity and everyday life. Many folks laughed at his ideas, especially in the south where pasta was king. Newspapers and cartoonists poked fun at the movement, and pasta producers were dead set defending their traditional food.

But it is interesting to see that pasta features on the menu at Café Marinetti.

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John McGrath  reviewed my book, Sicilian Seafood Cooking in the Adelaide Review. he mentions Filippo Tommaso Marinetti:

ADELAIDE REVIEW OF ‘SICILIAN SEAFOOD COOKING

The cuisine of Emilia

And when in Bologna (in the region of Emilia-Romagna) we must acknowledge the Bolognese Ragù.

This recipe can be found on The Great Italian Chefs Web Site.

N.B. My mother used to add cream rather than milk, and a little grated nutmeg. She also added a little rosemary.

BOLOGNESE RAGÙ

  • 300g of beef mince 
  • 150g of pork mince
  • 50g of unsalted butter
  • 50g of onion finely chopped
  • 50g of carrot finely chopped
  • 50g of  celery finely chopped
  • 125ml of red wine
  • 30g of  tomato paste, triple concentrated
  • 125ml of whole milk
  • salt to taste
  • black pepper to taste
Place a large thick-bottomed saucepan over a medium heat. Add the minced pork belly to the pot and cook until all the liquid from the meat has evaporated, then add the minced beef and cook until golden, stirring frequently. Transfer the meat to a bowl and set aside.
Add the butter to the saucepan and place over a medium heat. Add the onion, carrot and celery and cook until the onions are very soft and translucent. Finally, add the tomato paste and sauté for 5 minutes more, stirring occasionally.
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Return the meat to the saucepan, turn up the heat and pour in the red wine. Cook over a high heat for 2 minutes, then cover the pan and turn the heat down to low
Leave the ragù alla Bolognese to simmer very gently for at least 3 hours. The meat must not be excessively dry. Pour in the whole milk and cook for a further 40 minutes just before serving
Ragù alla Bolognese is very tasty when just cooked, but is even better the next day. Reheat the sauce over a very low heat with a little bit of milk and use it to season pasta.

……or tortellini or to make a lasagna.

TORTELLINI, how made in Bologna

EMIGLIA ROMAGNA and their love of stuffed pasta

EMIGLIA ROMAGNA and their love of stuffed pasta

In a restaurant in Modena we met a beautiful elderly woman who was the mother of one of the three chefs of a fabulous restaurant in Modena and her daughter is the owner. It is often the case that mothers and skilled mature women are responsible for making stuffed pasta in restaurants. They are after all very skilled and practised  in this area having made it over many years at home.

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La signora comes the restaurant each morning to make the stuffed pasta –  tortellini  and tortelloni (the squares of pasta are cut much bigger). Both are closed and folded in the shape of a navel. The traditional fillings are usually made with ricotta, spinach and Parmigiano Reggiano and covered with a melted browned butter and sage dressing.

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In Bologna the stuffing the for tortelli and tortelloni is likely to be made of prosciutto, mortadella, roast veal and Parmesan.

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More often than not, stuffed pasta is dressed with a ragù….today one of us had a ragù  made with a mixture of …selvaggina, wild meats – boar, rabbit, maybe pheasant.

Tortelloni di Zucca have mashed cooked pumpkin filling. Nutmeg, crumbed amaretti and mostarda mantovana – pickled fruit in a sweet mustard syrup. I ate Tortelloni di Zucca in Ferrara. But you may be surprised to know that in Ferrara they called these Capellacci….little hats…..Capelletti like tortellini, are the smaller version and these are usually cooked in broth (brodo).

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And there are Ravioli.

The pasta for all stuffed pasta can be white (egg, flour and water) or can be green (spinach).

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In a restaurant in Bologna we ate ravioli stuffed with ricotta and spinach but in a restaurant in San Giovanni in Marignano the variation in the stuffing was ricotta and marjoram and the dressing was made with asparagus. It is after all spring in Italy, even if it is raining now in Bologna.