In Italian, the word “zucca” can refer to both an overgrown zucchini, a marrow and a pumpkin, but to avoid confusion, we call a pumpkin “zucca gialla,” (yellow pumpkin).
When it comes to Sicilian caponata, the delightful dish is commonly made with eggplants (Caponata Palermitana), and eggplant and peppers (Caponata Catanese). But the creativity doesn’t stop there! You can find variations featuring celery, fennel, and even potatoes. One other standout is the Caponata di zucca gialla, which showcases the sweet, earthy flavors of pumpkin as the star ingredient. Each version of caponata offers a unique twist on this iconic classic, highlighting the versatility of Sicilian cuisine.
The principle for making any Sicilian caponata is the same: onion, celery, the key ingredient (eggplant or eggplant and peppers, fennel, potato etc.), capers, green olives, sometimes a splash of tomato puree, toasted pine nuts, or almonds and agro-dolce sauce – caramelised sugar and vinegar.
The ingredients a fried separately. Pumpkin first – sauté and then set aside.
Sauté onion and celery. Add olives and capers.
Add sugar, thenvinegar and salt to taste. Add the fried pumpkin and toasted almonds (or pine nuts).Let rest overnight or for at least half a day.
The other popular Sicilian way to cook pumpkin is also in an agro-dolce sauce.
For this recipe, slices of pumpkin are also fried. I bake mine but it is not the traditional way of cooking it. The recipe is one of a number of Sicilian caponate in my book Sicilian Seafood Cooking (now out of print).
The recipe is called Fegato con sette cannoli. To see the recipe and find out why this recipe is called Liver with seven reeds:
Caponata di Natale is a traditional Sicilian Christmas caponata that surprises many people familiar only with the more common eggplant version.
In Sicily, caponata exists in many forms, and not all caponate contain eggplants.
This festive caponata reflects the season in which it is served. While eggplants and peppers are abundant during the Sicilian summer, they are not winter vegetables. For Christmas, some Sicilians prepare a caponata based on celery hearts, creating a dish that is lighter, fresher and particularly suited to festive meals.
It may be very different from the Christmas fare many Australians expect, but it makes a wonderful antipasto, salad or accompaniment to roasted meats and fish.
A Christmas CAPONATA – a Dish Rooted in Sicilian Seasons
One of the pleasures of Sicilian cooking is its respect for seasonal produce. Traditional Christmas tables often feature dishes that celebrate winter vegetables rather than relying on ingredients available year-round.
In many parts of Sicily, celery is the principal ingredient in Caponata di Natale. Some regional versions also include leafy winter greens such as chicory, spinach or endive.
Traditionally, the celery is boiled before being sautéed. I prefer a simpler approach: slicing the celery very finely and cooking it gently in olive oil until just softened. This preserves some of its texture and freshness while allowing it to absorb the sweet-and-sour flavours that are characteristic of Sicilian caponata.
Caponata di Natale served at room temperature—a traditional Sicilian Christmas antipasto made with celery, olives, capers and almonds
The Magic of Agrodolce
Like many Sicilian dishes, this caponata relies on the balance of agrodolce—the combination of sweet and sour flavours.
The sweetness comes from sugar and sultanas, while vinegar provides acidity. Salty capers and olives add depth, and almonds contribute richness and texture.
The result is a dish full of contrasts:
Sweet and sour
Salty and fruity
Soft and crunchy
Delicate and robust
It is these contrasts that make Sicilian caponata such a memorable dish.
Unlike the better-known eggplant caponata, this festive Sicilian version celebrates winter vegetables, especially tender celery hearts.
The sweet-and-sour agrodolce dressing brings together the distinctive flavours of capers, olives, sultanas and almonds.
Sultanas or currants are both good to use. Muscatels and raisins are OK as well, but their size may not be as visually pleasing.
Sometimes I toast the almonds, sometimes I have used pine nuts.
Prepared a day ahead, Caponata di Natale develops deeper flavours and is ideal for entertaining.
Serving Caponata di Natale
Although I often serve this caponata alongside meat or fish, I particularly enjoy it on its own at the beginning of a meal with good bread and a glass of wine.
Like most caponate, it improves with time. Preparing it a day ahead allows the flavours to develop and meld together beautifully.
Serve it at room temperature and finish it with toasted almonds or, for an extra layer of texture, a sprinkling of toasted breadcrumbs.
Caponata di Natale (Christmas Caponata)
Serves 6–8
Ingredients
1 cup blanched almonds, toasted and chopped
1 large celery heart, using only the pale inner stalks and tender leaves
1 large onion, finely chopped
¾ cup sultanas or currants
½ cup capers (salted or in brine)
¾ cup green olives, pitted and chopped
½ glass white vinegar
3 tablespoons sugar
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Method
Prepare the Vegetables
Finely slice the celery stalks and chop the tender leaves.
Heat the olive oil in a deep frying pan and gently sauté the celery and onion. Season lightly with salt and cook for about 10 minutes, or until softened.
Add the olives, sultanas and capers. Cook for a further 2 minutes.
Transfer the mixture to a bowl.
Make the Agrodolce Sauce
Using the same pan, gently heat the sugar until it begins to melt and lightly caramelise.
Carefully add the vinegar and allow it to bubble and reduce slightly.
Return the vegetable mixture to the pan and stir well to coat everything in the sweet-and-sour sauce.
Add some of the almonds, reserving the remainder for garnish.
Rest and Serve
Transfer the caponata to a serving dish and refrigerate overnight.
Bring to room temperature before serving.
Top with the rest of the almonds or breadcrumbs when ready to serve.
A Caponata for the Festive Table – SICILIAN SEAFOOD COOKING
This celery-based Christmas caponata is one of the many traditional Sicilian caponate featured in my book Sicilian Seafood Cooking. It demonstrates the remarkable diversity of Sicilian cuisine and the way seasonal ingredients shape festive cooking across the island.
While it may not resemble the caponata most people expect, it remains unmistakably Sicilian—rich in contrasts, deeply rooted in tradition, and always at its best when shared, especially with guests who are only familiar with eggplant caponata.
To make a Caponata Catanese you will need:
Mountains of eggplants, peppers, celery, onion, capers and green olives…..a few red tomatoes, pine nuts, basil and the characteristic caramelized sugar and vinegar to deglaze the pan that makes the agro – dolce sauce.
Two days before Christmas and the caponata needs to be made so that the flavours mellow.
In a couple of days it will be perfect!
Ready for more fresh basil and pine-nuts and ready to be presented to guests. The first lot will be on Christmas eve – it will be served as the antipasto without any other food, just a little, good quality, fresh bread for those who wish to mop up the juices.
The Sicilian caponata is commonly made with eggplants especially in Palermo However, my mother’s family comes from Catania where this version of caponata also contains peppers (capsicums) as one of the principal ingredients. This regional variationis also found in many other parts of Sicily and not just in the southeastern areas.I’ve enjoyed this peppery caponata in restaurants across various Sicilian cities, including Syracuse, Sciacca, Mazara del Vallo, Agrigento, Ragusa Ibla, and Caltagirone.
Apart from the main vegetables (eggplants as in Palermo or eggplants and peppers as in Catania) the principal and most common flavourings that characterise any Sicilian caponata are: celery, onion, capers, green olives and the sweet and sour, caramelised sauce made with vinegar and sugar (the agro dolce).
Sicilians love to debate the authentic version of caponata (as they do with all recipes), with each family having their own cherished version. Some prefer tomato paste instead of chopped tomatoes, while others swear by the addition of garlic or even chocolate. Nuts like almonds, pine nuts, or pistachios frequently make an appearance, and herbs such as basil, oregano, or mint vary from one recipe to another. Some versions include raisins or currants, while others add fresh pears. One neighbor of mine, whose family also from Catania, even adds a few potatoes.This is very foreign to me, but obviously it happens.
Summer and autumn are prime seasons for making caponata, as peppers and eggplants are at their peak and this is a reason why it is perfect for an Australian Christmas. However, Sicily’s climate allows for eggplants and peppers year-round, thanks to the extensive use of serre (greenhouses) that were initially installed in great numbers in 1960-1965. These have continued to grow in numbers. Sicily, followed by Spain has the highest numbers of eggplants in terms of cultivation
Caponata brings a burst of flavour and tradition to the Christmas festivities and is also served during New Year celebrations. This iconic, vibrant dish, with its rich blend of eggplants, peppers, (and to a non-Sicilian), other surprising ingredients such as capers, olives and agrodolce sauce, lifts the spirits of the season and makes the meal a celebration.
Before the serre (glasshouses), eggplants and peppers were not in season and there were versions of caponata made with green leafy vegetables (pre-cooked in boiling salted water, drained, then added to the sautéed onion, olives, capers and the agro dolce sauce). This was called the Christmas caponata. There is also a not very common version of winter caponata made with celery, almonds and sultanas that I rather like, (recipe link below).
Unlike typical side dishes, caponata is often served as a small appetizer (or a spuntino – a snack), paired with a slice of bread to mop up the juices. It is intended to whet the appetite. After enjoying this savory starter, a meal might continue with a primo (first course), a secondo (main dish), a contorno (side vegetables), a dolce (dessert) and probably more sweets.
I always fry my vegetables separately because vegetables cook at different rates and it is far better to fry or sauté food in batches than crowd the pan.
Traditionally in caponata, the celery is pre-cooked in salted, boiling water before being added to the other ingredients. However, because I like the taste of the crunchy celery I have never pre-cooked it.
The legacy of my grandmother’s caponata continues to thrive. Friends who have savored my version are now inspired to make it themselves.
I cooked caponata for my cousin, who visited me in Melbourne from the US several years ago. He and his wife were enthralled by the dish, and it stirred up fond memories of his mother’s cooking—my aunt (my mother’s sister), who died several years ago. He asked me to send him the recipe, and when he received it, he replied:
“As I read your recipe for caponata, I could smell the flavors, just like when my mother was making it.”
Now, he’s sharing the joy of caponata with his friends and family back in the US, keeping the tradition alive across the ocean.
This version of caponata was published in the summer issue of the magazine, Italianicious (Essence of Italy, Dec 2009). The summer issue was a special edition on Sicily and I was asked to contribute. Each issue of Italianicious contains information and stories about all things Italian in Italy and in Australia.
Do not feel intimidated by the long list of steps to cook it. It really is a very simple process, but it does take some time to make.
INGREDIENTS
For 4-6 people
extra virgin olive oil, 1 cup (more or less – depending how much the vegetables will absorb)
eggplants, 2 large, dark skinned variety
peppers, 3, preferably 1 green, 1 red, 1 yellow (variation of colour is mainly for appearance, but the red and yellow ones taste sweeter)
onion, 1, large, sliced thinly,
red tomatoes, 2 medium size, peeled and chopped, or 2 tablespoons of tomato paste and a little water
capers, ½ cup, salted or in brine
green olives, ¾ cup, stoned, chopped
celery, 2-3 tender stalks and the pale green leaves (both from the centre of the celery)
white, wine vinegar, 2 spoonfulls
½ cup sugar,
1 tablespoon of salt (to soak the eggplants)
some freshly ground pepper and extra salt as needed
basil leaves, several
PROCESSES
Preparation of the ingredients:
Cut the eggplant into cubes (approx 30mm) – do not peel. Place the cubes into abundant water with about 1 tablespoon of salt. Leave for about 30 minutes – this will keep the flesh white and the eggplant is said to absorb less oil if soaked previously.
Prepare the capers – if they are the salted variety, ensure they have been rinsed thoroughly and then soaked for about 30 minutes before use, and then rinsed again.
Cut the peppers into slices (approx 20mm) or into rectangular shapes.Slice the onion.
Slice the celery sticks and the green leaves finely.Peel, and coarsely chop the tomatoes (or use tomato paste).
The Cooking:
Drain the eggplants and squeeze them to remove as much water as possible – I use a clean tea towel.
Heat a large frypan over medium heat with ¾ cup of the extra virgin olive oil.Add eggplant cubes and sauté until soft and golden (about 10-12 minutes). Place the drained eggplants into a large bowl and set aside (all of the vegetables will be added to this same bowl). Drain the oil from the eggplants back into the same frypan and re-use this oil to fry the next ingredients.
Add some new oil (to the left-over eggplant oil) plus a little salt and sauté the peppers, until wilted and beginning to turn brown (about 10-12 minutes). Remove the peppers from the pan and drain the oil from the peppers back into the same frypan. Place the peppers in the bowl with the eggplants.
Add a little more oil to the pan and sauté the celery gently for 5-7 minutes, so that it retains some of its crispness (in more traditional recipes, the celery is always boiled until soft before being sautéed). Sprinkle the celery with a little salt while it is cooking. Remove the celery from the pan and add it to the eggplants and peppers.
Sauté the onion, having added a little more oil to the frypan. Add a little salt and cook until translucent. Add the tomatoes or the tomato paste (with a little water) to the onions, and allow their juice to evaporate. Add the capers and olives. Allow these ingredients to cook gently for 1- 2 minutes. Empty the contents of the frypan into the bowl with the other cooked vegetables.
For the agro- dolce sauce (sweet and sour sauce):
Add the sugar to the frypan (already coated with the caramelised flavours from the vegetables). Heat it very gently until it begins to melt and bubble. Add the vinegar and evaporate. Incorporate the cooked vegetables into the frypan with the agro-dolce sauce.
Add ground pepper, check for salt and add more if necessary. Add basil leaves: these are likely to discolour and I usually remove them and replace them with fresh basil leaves at the time of serving.
Gently toss all of the ingredients over low heat for 2-3 minutes to blend the flavours.
Remove the caponata from the pan and cool before placing it into one or more containers. Store in the fridge until ready to use – it will keep well for up to one week and it improves with age.
The final touches, select from the following options and sprinkle on the top of the caponata:
Crispy pangrattato – breadcrumbs from day-old, good quality bread. The crumbs are tossed in a pan with a little hot extra virgin olive oil until they are golden, toasted and crunchy.
Pine nuts or blanched chopped almonds, toasted.
Fresh basil or mint leaves.
Eat the caponata at room temperature accompanied by good quality bread to mop up the juices.
*** I first published this post In Feb 2010.
In my Book Sicilian Seafood Cooking, there is a whole chapter devoted to Caponata – made with various vegetables.
Sicilian Seafood Cooking was first published in Nov. 2011 and republished in Dec. 2014.
