I’ve made the classic famous Zuppa Inglese countless times, and it’s one of those desserts that’s surprisingly easy to prepare while still managing to impress. When I’m pressed for time or in need of a transportable dessert that guarantees satisfaction and admiration, Zuppa Inglese never lets me down.
I first shared this recipe back on October 10, 2010, and it feels just as relevant today —maybe even more so. It is the Italian alternative to the English trifle.With its rich layers of sponge fingers, egg custard, and the perfect hint of the ancient Florentine liqueur called Alchermes, it’s the ideal dessert for any celebration. Zuppa Inglese never goes out of style!
You may need to use the internet to source Alchermes, but it is worth making it with the traditional liquer that is used for cakes. The savoiardi sponge fingers are moistened with Alchermes and it is usually diluted with a little water. I don’t usually do this. Maybe this is why everyone likes it so much!
A panettone was a present from the bakers from Zeally Bay. It came unexceptionally in the mail:
Panettone from Zeally Bay Bakers
Panettone is traditionally eaten during the Christmas and New Year holiday period in Italy. Christmas is close. The best eat before date is 20th February so you will have plenty of time to eat it if you are lucky enough to buy one in Melbourne.
It is made with the best ingredients, and it is organic.
Zeally Bay were experimenting with making Panettone last year but they were not happy enough with the mixture in time for Christmas 2017. But this year – perfect.
Thank you Zealy Bay, I shall enjoy mine.
‘Like many great things, sourdough requires time, skill and patience’
The above quote is from Zeally Bay’s website.
Good luck to those of you who live in Victoria, and enjoy it if you are able to purchase one.
I almost always like to experiment with traditional recipes, often by including ingredients that traditionally are not tolerated by purist Italians. I persevere with my variations because I usually like the end result. It is a little like the situation with Sangiovese produced in Tuscany and the wine from Sangiovese grapes grown in Australia. I once had a lengthy discussion with a lovely wine bar owner in Firenze who could not believe that we would dare call our wine Sangiovese because Australia could not possibly have the traditional characteristics of the Tuscan region, the terroir and the climate. But how important are the skills of the winemaker and the subtle variations of in an aged old tradition?
I make panforte every year for Christmas. In traditional panforte recipes the most common nuts are almonds and hazelnuts. In recent times pistachio nuts, walnuts and macadamia have become common, especially in Australia.
We have also taken liberties with what we do with the nuts – whole or chopped nuts, skin-on, blanched or toasted? This time I used blanched almonds and hazelnuts with their skins – I blanched and toasted the almonds and toasted the hazelnuts and rubbed some of their skin off.
I like black ground pepper and plenty of it; traditional recipes do not add as much as I do, but then again I also like to add black pepper to my fruitcakes. The common spices are cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. Some add coriander, and I too have done so in other panforte I have made.
I added cocoa powder and chopped dark chocolate pieces. I wanted colour, richness and a slight bitterness, a contrast with the sweetness of the fruit. I also thought that the chocolate would melt and once cool would solidify (like in a Florentine biscuit) and make the panforte texture less candied. I used citron and orange peel, figs and ginger (in syrup, but I drained it). I have also eaten panforte with cranberries, cherries and pineapple. Where does one draw the line?
Could I still call what I made panforte? Not likely.
Zenzero (ginger) is not common in Italian cuisine and is not found in panforte, nor are dark chocolate pieces included in the traditional mix.
I used equal amounts of honey and sugar – the sugar, like toffee makes it brittle, the honey adds flavour and gives the panforte a softer, less brittle consistency.
A little flour and a little butter – the more flour you add, the firmer the texture of the panforte; the more butter the richer and shorter the mixture. I used the chocolate and too much of it and because of the chocolate’s fat high content I should not have used. the butter. My panforte did not end up as chewy as the classic variety of panforte.
I ended up with a fabulous tasting concoction – how could it not be with all of those good ingredients and flavours. The ginger and pepper makes it very more-ish. But is it panforte?
I enjoyed making it and shall enjoy eating it and sharing it with friends but not call it a panforte – an experiment perhaps, so that I could make use of all of the ginger in syrup that I had in my pantry.
A friend went overseas and left me with an incredible amount of candied ginger. I made a syrup and turned the candied ginger into moist ginger in a very flavourful syrup with the texture of honey.
370 g of nuts – almonds, hazelnuts
370 fruit – figs, citrus, lemon and orange peel
4 tsp ground black pepper
2 tsp ground spices – cinnamon, nutmeg, less quantity of cloves
150g plain flour
4 tsp cocoa powder 150g chopped dark chocolate
1 tsp butter (I used 1 tbs and this was too much)
1 cup white sugar
1 cup honey
Roughly chop the figs, place then into a bowl with the peel and drained ginger
In a different bowl put in the nuts.
Into a large heatproof mixing put in the flour, cocoa and spices. Combine these and stir in the fruit and the nuts.
Heat the oven to 200C
Line containers with baking paper.
Put the white sugar and honey into a pan and gently heat until it bubbles. Keep it on the gentle heat for another minute. Place in the butter.
Work quickly and stir the hot liquid into the other ingredients until well combined, then scrape into the prepared tins and press down. Bake the small ones for about 15mins and larger shapes about 30 minutes. They harden as they cool.
Cool the panforte before turning out. Wrap them in more baking paper until you are ready to gift wrap them in cellophane and sprinkle with icing sugar.
Caponata di Natale is a traditional Sicilian Christmas caponata that surprises many people familiar only with the more common eggplant version.
In Sicily, caponata exists in many forms, and not all caponate contain eggplants.
This festive caponata reflects the season in which it is served. While eggplants and peppers are abundant during the Sicilian summer, they are not winter vegetables. For Christmas, some Sicilians prepare a caponata based on celery hearts, creating a dish that is lighter, fresher and particularly suited to festive meals.
It may be very different from the Christmas fare many Australians expect, but it makes a wonderful antipasto, salad or accompaniment to roasted meats and fish.
A Christmas CAPONATA – a Dish Rooted in Sicilian Seasons
One of the pleasures of Sicilian cooking is its respect for seasonal produce. Traditional Christmas tables often feature dishes that celebrate winter vegetables rather than relying on ingredients available year-round.
In many parts of Sicily, celery is the principal ingredient in Caponata di Natale. Some regional versions also include leafy winter greens such as chicory, spinach or endive.
Traditionally, the celery is boiled before being sautéed. I prefer a simpler approach: slicing the celery very finely and cooking it gently in olive oil until just softened. This preserves some of its texture and freshness while allowing it to absorb the sweet-and-sour flavours that are characteristic of Sicilian caponata.
Caponata di Natale served at room temperature—a traditional Sicilian Christmas antipasto made with celery, olives, capers and almonds
The Magic of Agrodolce
Like many Sicilian dishes, this caponata relies on the balance of agrodolce—the combination of sweet and sour flavours.
The sweetness comes from sugar and sultanas, while vinegar provides acidity. Salty capers and olives add depth, and almonds contribute richness and texture.
The result is a dish full of contrasts:
Sweet and sour
Salty and fruity
Soft and crunchy
Delicate and robust
It is these contrasts that make Sicilian caponata such a memorable dish.
Unlike the better-known eggplant caponata, this festive Sicilian version celebrates winter vegetables, especially tender celery hearts.
The sweet-and-sour agrodolce dressing brings together the distinctive flavours of capers, olives, sultanas and almonds.
Sultanas or currants are both good to use. Muscatels and raisins are OK as well, but their size may not be as visually pleasing.
Sometimes I toast the almonds, sometimes I have used pine nuts.
Prepared a day ahead, Caponata di Natale develops deeper flavours and is ideal for entertaining.
Serving Caponata di Natale
Although I often serve this caponata alongside meat or fish, I particularly enjoy it on its own at the beginning of a meal with good bread and a glass of wine.
Like most caponate, it improves with time. Preparing it a day ahead allows the flavours to develop and meld together beautifully.
Serve it at room temperature and finish it with toasted almonds or, for an extra layer of texture, a sprinkling of toasted breadcrumbs.
Caponata di Natale (Christmas Caponata)
Serves 6–8
Ingredients
1 cup blanched almonds, toasted and chopped
1 large celery heart, using only the pale inner stalks and tender leaves
1 large onion, finely chopped
¾ cup sultanas or currants
½ cup capers (salted or in brine)
¾ cup green olives, pitted and chopped
½ glass white vinegar
3 tablespoons sugar
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Method
Prepare the Vegetables
Finely slice the celery stalks and chop the tender leaves.
Heat the olive oil in a deep frying pan and gently sauté the celery and onion. Season lightly with salt and cook for about 10 minutes, or until softened.
Add the olives, sultanas and capers. Cook for a further 2 minutes.
Transfer the mixture to a bowl.
Make the Agrodolce Sauce
Using the same pan, gently heat the sugar until it begins to melt and lightly caramelise.
Carefully add the vinegar and allow it to bubble and reduce slightly.
Return the vegetable mixture to the pan and stir well to coat everything in the sweet-and-sour sauce.
Add some of the almonds, reserving the remainder for garnish.
Rest and Serve
Transfer the caponata to a serving dish and refrigerate overnight.
Bring to room temperature before serving.
Top with the rest of the almonds or breadcrumbs when ready to serve.
A Caponata for the Festive Table – SICILIAN SEAFOOD COOKING
This celery-based Christmas caponata is one of the many traditional Sicilian caponate featured in my book Sicilian Seafood Cooking. It demonstrates the remarkable diversity of Sicilian cuisine and the way seasonal ingredients shape festive cooking across the island.
While it may not resemble the caponata most people expect, it remains unmistakably Sicilian—rich in contrasts, deeply rooted in tradition, and always at its best when shared, especially with guests who are only familiar with eggplant caponata.
Panettone’s popularity round the world keeps on growing and I have seen various packages of imported Italian Panettone in select shops. Panettone is traditionally eaten during the Christmas and New Year holiday period in Italy. Christmas is close.
Panettone was made famous and affordable when it was commercially produced (from the 1920’s) and railed all over Italy and now in many parts of the world.
The cheaper versions of light textured Panettoni (plural of Panettone) that you may be familiar are made with commercial yeast. The artisan and much more expensive varieties of Panettone are made with natural yeasts using the same traditional principles as making bread by the sourdough method.
When I first started playing around making bread at home I used commercial yeast (called lievito di birra in Italian) and my father used to remind me of how his mother made bread – she always saved a bit of uncooked dough from the loaf she was shaping, keep it in a jar with a lid and use it in the next batch of dough. He said that she never used commercial yeast. He was Sicilian and full of stories. He used to tell me about companion plantings and the effects of lunar cycles on plant germination, growth, and development.
But thinking myself a modern woman, most of the time I doubted the folk lore. It was only years later that I learned about natural leavening and how my grandmother was using lievito madre, ‘mother’ or a ‘starter’ in her baking – this is the wild yeast mixture that develops bacterial and lactic ferments that promote natural leavening. It is what imparts the bubbles in the texture of the dough and contributes to the characteristic aroma and flavour found in sour dough bread.
I like artisan breads – handmade and hand-shaped sourdough breads made with quality ingredients and integrity in bakeries like Zeally Bay Bakery. It is based in Torquay, but there are stockists in Melbourne and in some parts of regional Victoria.
‘Like many great things, sourdough requires time, skill and patience’
The above quote is from Zeally Bay’s website. John and Jan Farnan began making quality sourdough breads on a small scale in 2007. John, his son and a team of dedicated bakers have continued to develop an entire range of baked goods using Australian, certified, biodynamic and organic ingredients and applying traditional methods for making sourdough. The long fermentation process used in sourdough breads has many health benefits. Of interest is that the bakery is using the natural leaven culture that was began in 1981.
The reason that I mention Zealy Bay is that I have been privileged over time to try a whole range of their breads including their brioche and Easter buns and recently the Panettone that the bakery has been perfecting in time for Christmas… and it is great.
It was fragrant and had complex flavours, a result of using high-quality, natural ingredients and a long fermentation process. I could taste the natural flavours of the yeast, flour, eggs, butter and the fruit. Panettone made with sourdough if wrapped well, will remain fresh for days and just like in good bread, the flavours will mature and develop.
Being certified organic is a guarantee that the ingredients do not contain GMO’s, chemical pesticides or result in land degradation.
So, if you plan to have Panettone for Christmas it is worth considering if you will buy a local or imported one or make one at home?
The more affordable and commercially produced Panettone made by large production companies is bound to have preservatives and artificial flavours. If it is imported, you will have no way of knowing when it was baked and how it was transported.
The more expensive range of imported Panettoni are very likely to taste better than the cheaper versions. They are also more likely to have been made using the sourdough method – the older and more traditional method of making Panettone. Panettone is no longer just made in Milan. There are regional varieties made by artisans using local variations – for example some may have saffron, chestnuts, chocolate, figs rather than sultanas. The Sicilian versions are likely to contain higher amounts of citrus fruit, (this is grown extensively in Sicily). The artisan Panettoni may have been baked not as long ago as the more commercial ones and their expense may also reflect the cost of having been transported in faster and better climate-controlled conditions.
Few Italians bake Panettone at home and this is not surprising. Making Panettone at home requires patience and is a laborious process. It requires quite long leavening times over several days and three consecutive stages of mixing and kneading. You need good quality, gluten-rich flour to “support” such a rich dough.
The ‘mother’ or ‘starter’ has to be made well ahead of time and has to be mature, in strength, with the right degree of acidity. The bacteria contained in it must be nourished for fermentation, so every 3-4 days it is necessary to “refresh” the mother’s yeast and add some flour and water.
Ideally while it cools, the Panettone should be hung upside down to stretch and form a dome. Knitting needles are inserted all the way through the bottom half of the panettone between two objects of equal height or over a large saucepan and left to stretch at least six hours.
It was time to revisit Panforte again. I made two batches before Christmas. It’s a great gift or a pantry staple for emergencies – it lasts a long time.
I never follow recipes closely, so every time I make Panforte it will taste different.
If I want a softer Panforte, I add more honey and butter and less amounts of sugar.
Likewise adding more sugar and less honey and butter makes it firmer.
I also play around with the range of nuts I use and I always add great amounts of spices than any Panforte recipe that you are likely to find and always generous quantities of pepper. Sometimes I have added pink pepper – no true Italian is likely to corrupt Panforte with this spice.
For some reason I do not add cocoa or chocolate but many do like this version of dark (scuro) Panforte. I always add some sort of citrus peel ( I added cumquat to one of my latest batches) and sometimes I add figs. I would never add ginger, pineapple or cranberries or any other dried fruit for that matter – that would be so far removed from the traditional.
As for nuts, I added macadamias to one of the batches I made – my first time. I usually add a mixture of almonds, pistachio and hazelnuts.
Basically…. I use:
375g of nuts altogether
170g of citrus peel or citrus peel and figs
100g plain flour
420 g of sweetness altogether (honey and sugar). You could use 210g of each…this is usually what is done, but If I want a soft Panforte I use 200g sugar and 220g of honey. …harder still 215g sugar and 205 of honey.
45g of butter….less if I want it harder
spices and pepper to taste
grated orange or orange and lemon peel
Oven is 150C. Tins are lined with baking paper. Depending on the size of your tins, this quantity resulted in 2 large ones or 5-6 little ones – I used my Le Cruset mini casseroles. Expect to cook the larger ones 40-50 minutes…. smaller ones 35-40 minutes.
Mix all dry ingredients together.
Heat honey and sugar till sugar is melted, add butter.
Work quickly and add wet to dry ingredients.
Press into tins.
You will find a recipe for Panforte (it is Carol Field’s recipe) in an earlier post:
I have always played around with the ingredients and spices – Carol Field’s recipe was the “mother” recipe that launched the various versions of Panforte I have made over many years. Thank you Carol Field.
Christmas for me is not just cooking for Christmas eve (as is more traditional in my household) or Christmas day. It is more to do about having a range of simple ingredients on hand so that I can prepare the odd meal quickly, just in case I end up feeding some one. It is the festive season after all but whatever happens during this very silly season in the year, I like to be in control.
In my first book, Sicilian Seafood Cooking, I have written:
Every cook and professional chef has a way of doing things. It is said that you don’t leave your life behind, you take it with you. My mother’s surname is Leone. Often daughters acquire some of their knowledge and skills in the kitchen from watching their mothers and, like the Sicilian proverb, I am a leone (a lion) in control of my kitchen.
In this post I want to revisit an easy chicken dish that is Vitello Tonnato but not made with vitello (veal) but chicken. The word tonnato comes from the word tonno (tuna).
This recipe could keep you sane and will gain you many compliments.
Chicken fillets, capers and a tin of good tuna in oil are easy to get and these are likely to be ingredients that you have in your pantry. Mayonnaise can be made in no time with eggs and extra virgin olive oil. Anchovies taste good in this dish but not everyone likes anchovies so I did not use them on this occasion.
This dish is so simple to make, but it will be very much appreciated and enjoyed. Great for summer (as in Australia) or any season. It can be – but it also makes an impressive antipasto at any time.
Your guest could be familiar with Vitello Tonnato, but they are not likely to be familiar with Pollo alla Messinese – the word pollo or gallina is chicken and alla Messinese is as prepared by the Sicilians from Messina.
I have written this recipe before so I will just include some photos as I have made this many times (for recipe see link below).
On this occasion I wanted to make some chicken broth (another staple in my fridge) so I used a whole chicken and two chicken breasts. Then removed the breast from the whole chicken and used it with the two other breasts to make Pollo alla Messinese for six people. I cooked the chicken and when it was nearly cooked I added the chicken breasts whole. I then cooked it for an extra five minutes and then switched off the heat. The residual heat will cook the fillets.
Photo: tuna, capers and mayonnaise.
Photo: breasts are sliced, tuna sauce has been blended but because it was too thick I added more mayonnaise.
One layer of mayonnaise on the bottom, one layer of breasts. Three layers in all, topped with the sauce last and a sprinkling of capers. Pink peppercorns also have visual impact.
It always seems a time for scacce in Sicily, but particularly at Easter.
I have already written about scacce (focaccia-like stuffed pastries) and for suggestions of fillings and the recipe and ways to fold the pastry, see the post called: Scacce (Focaccia-like Stuffed Bread).
One of the most difficult things if you are a novice at making the traditional shaped scacce is the folding of the pastry. So, why not try just forming them into these shapes below instead. Use the same fillings and pastry as described in the post Scacce ( Focaccia- like Stuffed Bread) above.
This scaccia (singular of scacce and not a misspelling) in the photo below is round and pie shaped. The filling is made from lamb and ricotta.
The braised greens on the side could also be used in a filling – spinach or chicory or broccoli- softened/ wilted and then sautéed in garlic, chili and extra virgin olive oil (but drain well).
There is a post for impanate with a lamb filling – a typical dish for Easter.
The photos for these scacce (and pizza) are from a small eatery in Catania. The filling is made from slices of fried eggplant, a little bit of tomato salsa and a little bit of caciocavallo ( Sicilian cheese) – you could try provolone (cheese) instead.
Or you could try small pasty shapes as in the photo below (circle of dough = filling on one side= fold over to make a half moon). The pastries in the photo below are cooling on the racks in Dolcetti pasticceria (pastry shop in Victoria Street Melbourne). Marianna is the pastry chef and her mum is Lidia – and she is all Sicilian. Lidia visits Dolcetti each Saturday to make these pastries. She calls her pastries impanate. They are fabulous and she uses a variety of fillings.
What about just a pizza ….. These pizzas (in the photo below) are from Pizza D’Asporto (Rifle Range Shopping Centre, Williamstown). They are made by Sicilians and are very good – worth a visit.
It is Christmas at Dolcetti; these photos speak for themselves (see link at the end of this post).
Marianna from Dolcetti is making so many traditional sweets for Christmas. There are too many to mention in this post but here are a few photos of what you can purchase from her Pasticceria (Italian for Patisserie) in Melbourne.
There are torroni ( plural of torrone) in various colours and flavours: almond chocolate, vanilla rosepetal, strawberries and white chocolate, chocolate baci, vanilla, roast almond and orange blossom, pistachio and almond……Marianna is famous for her hand made sweet things. f Some of you who live in Australia may have seen her on TV, Italian Food Safari (SBS) making her torrone (nougat). There is also a book of the series published by Hardie Grant.
Giuggiulena (also called Cubbaita) is also classed as a torrone. Click on link to see earlier post for description and recipe:
GIUGGIULENA (also CUBBAITA) – a brittle Sicilian toffee of sugar and honey with sesame seeds and almonds.
Also particularly Sicilian is the Buccellato (in dialect “cucciddatu”); This is made in the shape of ring and is stuffed with nuts and dried fruit. Photo of Giuggiulena and Buccellato above.
Panforte is one of the oldest sweets in Italy; it is very popular in Siena and Pisa but is now found in most places in Italy and overseas .This is heavily scented and flavoured with medieval spices. Marianna makes both the dark and light version
(different ingredients) in various shapes and sizes. It’s served in thin slices like torrone and keeps very well.
One of my favourites are the dried figs filled with nougat and dipped in dark chocolate; a version of these are also a popular Christmas sweet in Calabria and usually stuffed with almonds or walnuts and candied orange peel.
There are also Italian Christmas cakes – moist, light in colour and laden with rum and marsala. (No images)
Pignolata is a typical sweet of Sicily and Calabria that is popular at Christmas and during Carnival festivities. These are balls of fried dough (they look like large chickpeas) and covered with warmed honey.
She is also highly respected for her different almond biscuits (she is of Sicilian heritage after all) and of these you will find many varieties, however she also makes similar ones with pistachio; one these are the Pistachio Shortbread Biscuits. This is Marianna’s recipe.
Pistachio Shortbread Biscuits
INGREDIENTS
250g unsalted butter, softened to room temperature
160g pure icing sugar, sifted
2 tbs fine rice flour
2 tbs corn flour
90g almond meal
225g plain flour
1/3 cup unsalted pistachio nuts, very finely ground (like the almond meal)
PROCESSES
Combine butter and icing sugar. If using an electric mixer it is important that you do not over beat the butter and sugar as this will add too much air to the mixture. Another way to view this is that the butter must remain yellow and not the pale colour that results when butter and sugar is beaten for a considerable amount of time.
Add ground nuts, and then the flours last of all and mix until mixture comes together. Once again, do not overwork it; being short breads using your fingers to rub in the flours may work best.
Turn onto a lightly floured surface and with a sharp knife or biscuit cutter cut into preferred shapes; Marianna has cut hers into Christmas trees.
Place the biscuits on oven trays lined with baking paper. Space them about 2cm apart.
Bake in 180°C oven for 10 -15 mins or until lightly golden (but being short breads they must still be pale in colour).
When they are still warm sprinkle with crushed pistachio nuts.
Cool and store in a tin.
There are other pastries and sweets that can be made to order in various sizes. Some ideal ones for Christmas are: Fresh Fruit tart – think of Australian summer fruit! Troncodi Natale is a Christmas log (Bûche de Noël), a popular Christmas dessert in many countries of Northern Europe. Millefoglie, (the French call Mille-Feuille – flaky puff pastry interlayered with a rich chocolate crema in the bottom half and chantilly cream on top.
There are fruit mince tarts for those who wish to stick to the Anglo tradition.
Marianna and her pastry chefs are having a good time and inventing some sweets with whimsical names, i.e: Rudolph’s Karolina.
Tartufo tortina, is not particularly tied to Christmas, but who can resist these?
And there are so many more, too many to mention in this post.
