Category: Sicilian Seafood Cooking

PESCE CRUDO, raw fish dishes in Sicily

PESCE CRUDO,RAW FISH IN SICILY, AND THE ISLAND’S FISH MARKETS

Eating  raw fish- pesce crudo – is a serious business in Sicily – of course, it is also cooked in many ways.

Pesce Crudo in Sicily

Pesce crudo has long been part of Sicily’s coastal food culture. Fresh fish is treasured on the island and enjoyed in countless ways—grilled, baked, fried, stewed and, increasingly, served raw.

Today, raw seafood appears on menus throughout Sicily, but traditionally it was rarely eaten completely untreated. Instead, it was first marinated in fresh lemon juice before being dressed with extra virgin olive oil. This simple preparation is known as condito in Italian or cunzato in Sicilian, allowing the freshness of the fish to remain the star.

One of the best examples is fresh anchovies. After being cleaned, filleted and trimmed, they are left to marinate in lemon juice for several hours. The acidity of the lemon gently changes the texture of the flesh, a process often described as “cooking” the fish without heat.

In Sicily, these marinated anchovies are sometimes called anchive cotti d’a lumia—anchovies “cooked by the lemon”. Once drained, they need little more than a generous drizzle of excellent extra virgin olive oil to become a perfect antipasto.

Fresh sardines
Beyond Tuna and Swordfish

For generations, tuna and swordfish were the fish most commonly served raw in Sicily, particularly as appetisers. Today, however, Sicilian chefs are embracing a much wider range of seafood.

Influenced by international cuisines and contemporary dining trends, they prepare many varieties of local fish and shellfish as pesce crudo. Yet the philosophy remains unmistakably Sicilian: start with exceptionally fresh seafood and treat it with restraint.

Writing About Sicilian Pesce Crudo

I was commissioned to write an article on Sicily’s pesce crudo for Great British Chefs, a food multimedia company that publishes recipes and other culinary content via its website. Great British Chefs has expanded into Italy with Great Italian Chefs, and the article published on their website is titled PESCE CRUDO.

No matter how beautifully the fish is presented, it all begins with extraordinary ingredients.

Palermo Fish market, swordfish and tuna are among the treasures of Sicily’s fish markets
Sicily’s Fish Markets

One of my greatest pleasures in Sicily is wandering through its fish markets. They are lively, colourful places where fishermen, fishmongers, chefs and local shoppers gather each morning in search of the day’s catch.

Although there are excellent fish markets throughout the island, the famous market beside Piazza del Duomo in Catania is one of Sicily’s finest. The sounds of vendors calling to customers, the scent of the sea and the dazzling displays of seafood create an unforgettable experience.

The stalls are filled with remarkable variety—from octopus, squid, cuttlefish and shellfish to sea urchins, edible seaweeds and the celebrated gamberi rossi (Sicilian red prawns). Buckets teem with live seafood, shells glisten in the sunlight and every display reflects the freshness that Sicilian cooks insist upon.

Swordfish and tuna remain the undisputed centrepieces. Whole swordfish are often displayed upright, their long bills pointing skyward, while enormous tuna are expertly broken down before customers’ eyes. Every cut is carefully displayed, reflecting the Sicilian respect for using the whole fish and providing unmistakable proof of its freshness.

Whether you enjoy pesce crudo in a seaside restaurant or prepare it yourself at home, Sicily reminds us that outstanding seafood needs very little embellishment. Freshness, good olive oil, lemon and restraint are often all that is required.

The famous fish market in Catania, where Sicily’s freshest seafood arrives each morning.

I have always enjoyed fish markets in Sicily.

Fresh Squid as sold in Markets in Sicily

This is a small segment from the article PESCE CRUDO:

PESCE CRUDO: http://www.greatitalianchefs.com/features/pesce-crudo-sicily

Walking through the fish markets in Sicily is always a joy; the hustle and bustle of locals seeking out the best produce among the colourful stalls and traders is what makes the island such a charming place. There is more than one fish market in Catania, but the principal market in the southwest of the Cathedral Square is one of the largest in Sicily. However, wherever you are on the island will never be too far from fresh fish.

Sicily’s fish markets have vast, colourful, varied displays of exotic specimens such as sea urchins and edible algae to the more conventional octopus, squid, tuna and swordfish. Small, live fish swim circles in buckets of sea water, snails crawl about and all types of shellfish, especially the gamberi rossi (red prawns of Sicily), look dazzling. You know the fish is fresh – their shells and scales glisten in the sun.

Swordfish and tuna, the traditional staples of Sicilian cuisine, are the centrepieces of the market stalls. They are often displayed whole, the swordfish bill like a spear thrusting upwards. At other times, their massive round carcasses lie like a trunk on the fishmonger’s bench, while the tuna is sliced vertically and horizontally before being filleted along the length of its spine, while all its parts are laid out, testifying to its freshness.

Links:
Great British Chefs web site: http://www.greatbritishchefs.com/
Great Italian Chefs:  http://www.greatitalianchefs.com/
PESCE CRUDO: http://www.greatitalianchefs.com/features/pesce-crudo-sicily
From my blog recipe for marinaded sardines: SARDINE CRUDE E CONDITE CON LIMONE
Sword fish in Fish markets is sold in the open

The photos in this article were taken over my numerous trips to Sicily (Thank you also to Bob Evans and Angela Tolley). Some of these photos are in my book Sicilian Seafood Cooking.

Catania Fish Market
Fish can be presented in an elegant manner.

Sicilian Pumpkin with vinegar, mint, sugar and cinnamon

Fegato di sette cannoli

It is autumn  in Australia and  there are plenty of pumpkins around. I like cooking pumpkin this way because it has unusual flavours and it can be made well in advance. I have presented it both as an antipasto and as an accompaniment to main dishes.

I cook this dish quite often and I am surprised that I have not written about it on my blog.

The following text is a condensed version from my first book  Sicilian Seafood Cooking. The photograph is also from the book. This all took place in my kitchen – I cooked it , Fiona Riggs styled it and Graeme Gillies photographed it.

This  Sicilian specialty  is sometimes called zucca in agro dolce (pumpkin in sweet and sour sauce) but I prefer the more colloquial Sicilian name, ficato ri setti canola – literally, ‘liver of the seven spouts (or reeds)’.

It is a colourful and aromatic dish. There is the strong colour of the pumpkin, tinged brown at the edges, and contrasted with bright green mint. The sweetness   of the pumpkin is enhanced by the flavours and fragrance of garlic, cinnamon and vinegar. It is better cooked ahead of time – the flavours intensify when left at least overnight, but it can be stored in the fridge for several days.

The dish is said to have originated among the poor, in what is known as one of the quartieri svantaggiati (‘disadvantaged suburbs’) of Palermo.

Sicilians are colourful characters and like stories. It is said that the pumpkin dish was first cooked and named by the herb vendors of the Piazza Garraffello a small square in Palermo. These were the days before refrigeration and balconies and windowsills were often used to cool and store food, especially overnight. As the story goes, the herb sellers could often  smell the aroma of veal liver coming from the balconies of the rich. At home, they cooked pumpkin the same way as the well-to-do cooked liver (fegato) and, wanting to create a bella figura, they hoped the fragrance of their cooking would mislead the neighbours into thinking that they too were well-to-do and could afford to eat liver.

The typical way of cooking liver is to slice it thinly, pan-fry it and then caramelise the juices in the pan with sugar and vinegar to make agro dolce (sweet and sour sauce).

As for the seven spouts (sette cannoli), they are the short cane-shapedspouts of an elegant 16th-century fountain in the piazza. Below – cathedral in Palermo.

In Australia I generally use the butternut or Jap pumpkin,The pumpkin is sliced 1cm (.in) thick and traditionally fried in very hot oil (if thicker, they take too long to cook).

Although baking the pumpkin slices is not traditional, I prefer this method .It certainly saves time in the preparation (see variation below). Serve it at room temperature as an antipasto or as a contorno (vegetable side dish).

1kg (2lb 4oz) pumpkin
10 cloves garlic
extra virgin olive oil (1. cup
if frying 1/3 cup if baking)
3 teaspoons sugar
1 cup white wine vinegar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
small mint leaves
salt and freshly ground pepper

Fried Method

Peel and remove the seeds of the pumpkin and cut into 1cm (in) slices.
Peel and slice 4 cloves of garlic.
Heat the olive oil in a large heavy-based frying pan. Add the garlic cloves.
Remove when it has coloured and fry the pumpkin slices, turning them only once in case they break, until they become soft and begin to colour around the edges. Add salt to taste. Remove the pumpkin and discard some of the oil,
but keep any juices.
Use the same frying pan for the agro dolce sauce: add the sugar, stir it around the pan to caramelise it, and then add the vinegar and cinnamon.
Stirring constantly, allow the sauce to thicken slightly as the vinegar evaporates.
Add the remaining garlic cloves and few sprigs of mint to the warm sauce.

Add the pumpkin to the sauce, and sprinkle with pepper. Allow the sauce to penetrate the pumpkin on very low heat for a few minutes. Alternatively, pour the sauce over the pumpkin and turn the slices a couple of times. Cool
and store in the fridge once cool. Eat at room temperature.

When ready to serve, arrange the slices in a serving dish, remove the old mint (it would have discoloured). Scatter slices of fresh garlic and fresh mint leaves on top and in between the slices.

Baked version

Cut the pumpkin into thicker slices, about 2–3cm (1in).
Sprinkle with salt and place on an oiled baking tray.
Bake the pumpkin and garlic in a 200C (400F) oven (discard the garlic when the pumpkin has cooked).
Make the agro dolce sauce (see the above) in the baking tray instead of a frying pan.

I also add fresh bay leaves – like the look and the taste of it.

The mint must be fresh mint.

Proceed as the recipe above.

PASTA CON SARDE – the baked version, Palermo, Sicily

This is Pasta con le Sarde, the baked version, and a taste of Sicily’s history. It is one of the most iconic Sicilian dishes and consists of bucatini pasta tossed with sardines, wild fennel, pine nuts, saffron, and topped (or encased)  with golden, fried breadcrumbs.

Pasta con le Sarde can be served hot or cold and is visually more impressive when baked into a tummàla, a Sicilian term derived from the Arabic. The Italian name is timballo, from the French timbale, the cooked ingredients are encased in rice, pasta or pastry.  The dry breadcrumbs are used to line and cover the contents in the baking pan, the long bucatini can be coiled around the pan and together with the sardine sauce become the filling.

I’ve cooked this dish many times and it is one of those recipes that tells a tale that begins with Sicily’s layered history and whenever I make this dish, I enjoy telling this story to my guests.

A tale – a Dish Born of Conquest and Creativity

Muslim Arabs took control of North Africa from the Byzantines and Berbers and began their second conquest of Sicily in 827 from Mazara, the closest point to the African coast. By 902 they had fully conquered Sicily. The Muslims were known as Moors by the Christians and by the time of the Crusades, they were also referred to as Saracens.

When the Muslim Arabs conquered Sicily from 827 to 902 AD, they brought with them not just new rulers, but new flavours — saffron, nuts, and dried fruit. Legend has it that when Arab troops first landed on the island, their cook was told to prepare food from whatever could be foraged. The soldiers brought to the cook wild fennel and sardines, plentiful along the Sicilian coast.

The cook combined these local ingredients with his own Arabic exotic ingredients and flavours of Arabs and North Africans – the saffron, dried fruit and the nuts. And so Pasta con le Sarde was born.

To this day, it remains a quintessentially Sicilian dish, especially in Palermo. Its sweet-savoury, sea-meets-land flavour captures Sicily’s unique blend of cultures.

Baked or Fresh Pasta con le Sarde  – The Sicilian ‘Tummàla’

This layered, breadcrumb-crusted bake turns simple pasta into a festive centrepiece. The recipe  with slight variations is also featured in my book, Sicilian Seafood Cooking.

Wild fennel is seasonal and is not always easy to find so I use fennel bulbs. On this occasion I bought fennel bulbs with the greatest amounts of green fronds, added some ground fennel seeds and a splash of Pernod to enhance the fennel taste.

Wild fennel

If you can get wild fennel, place it into some cold, salted water (enough to cook the pasta) and boil it for 10-15 minutes (it can be left in the water for longer). The green tinged, fennel-flavoured water is used to cook the pasta — it will flavour and colour the pasta. Reserve some of the tender shoots of wild fennel raw to use in the cooking of the sauce.

Drain the cooked fennel and keep the fennel-flavoured water to cook the pasta. Some of the cooked fennel can be added to the pasta sauce.

Traditionally, wild fennel is boiled to make the aromatic water used to cook the pasta. When wild fennel is scarce, bulb fennel makes an excellent substitute. I like to boost the anise flavour with a pinch of ground fennel seeds or a splash of Pernod.

Baked Pasta con le Sarde (Serves 4–6)

I prepare Pasta con le Sarde in sufficient quantities to have some leftovers for baking. This is a particularly useful strategy when I have different guests arriving on two occasions in close proximity. It is especially advantageous around Easter and Christmas when fish is still a preferred dish on Good Friday and Christmas Eve. The leftovers can be reconfigured for the following day.

Ingredients:

  • 500g bucatini
  • 500g fresh sardines (fillets)
  • 1 large fennel bulb with fronds, finely chopped
  • 1 tsp ground fennel seeds or a dash of Pernod
  • ½ cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 onion, finely sliced
  • 4 anchovies, chopped
  • ¾ cup toasted  pine nuts
  • ¾ cup toasted almonds
  • ¾ cup currants or sultanas (soaked)
  • ½–1 tsp saffron threads (soaked)
  • Salt, black pepper or chilli flakes
  • 100g coarse breadcrumbs, made with day old, quality bread (sourdough/pasta dura), lightly tossed and toasted in oil with a little lemon zest, a little cinnamon, and sugar

Method:

Prepare the fennel and Sardines : Slice the fennel into thin slices and cut fronds finely. Cut about two thirds of the sardine fillets into thick pieces. Reserve whole fillets to go on top and provide visual impact.

Cook the sauce:

In a wide pan, heat olive oil and sauté onion until golden. Add fennel and cook until softened. Stir in pine nuts, almonds, and currants  (drained). oss gently until heated.

Add the sliced sardines, salt and pepper or chili. Cook  for about 5-7 minutes, stirring gently.

Add the anchovies (try to remove any bones if there are any) and as they cook, crush them with back of spoon to dissolve into a paste. Add ground fennel seeds or a splash of Pernod to enhance the fennel taste. Add saffron (and the soaking water) and continue to stir and cook gently.

Fry the whole fillets of sardines in a separate frying pan, keeping them intact. Remove them from the pan and put aside.

The Pasta: Boil bucatini in the fennel water (if using wild fennel) until al dente.
Drain the pasta.

Combine: Toss pasta with the sauce, sprinkle with breadcrumbs, and top with fried whole sardine fillets.

Timballo (Baked Version) of Pasta con le Sarde

Method:

Make more breadcrumbs using the quantities above. For a deeper crust, double the quantities. I am not a great lover of using more breadcrumbs as you see in the photos.

Line a baking tin with baking paper or foil to prevent sticking and make lifting easier. Traditionally a round shape is used.

Sprinkle with the toasted breadcrumbs and layer coiled bucatini, sardine mixture, more pasta, and breadcrumbs. Make the bottom and the top thick layers of breadcrumbs if you wish for a significant crust.

 Sprinkle with extra virgin olive oil, cover with foil and bake in preheated 200°C for approximately 20- 30 minutes. Remove the foil and bake for another 10 minutes. When the dish is baked, the breadcrumbs form a crust.

 

The result? A fragrant, golden, fragrant dish and centuries of Sicilian history.

 

LINKS:
WILD FENNEL, link with photos

PASTA WITH ANCHOVIES , wild fennel and breadcrumbs recipe

EASTER IN SICILY

LA VIGILIA (Christmas Eve revisited)

A SEAFOOD CHRISTMAS Feast with Fran Kelly; RADIO NATIONAL BREAKFAST PROGRAMME

SAUCES for meat, fish and vegetables to brighten up your Christmas

Sauces are one of the easiest ways to expand your Christmas repertoire and brighten up your Christmas without changing the core of your menu. Whether your table is seafood-focused, meat-heavy, vegetarian, or a mix of all three, a thoughtfully chosen sauce can bring freshness, complexity and colour.

Because one of the books I’ve written is Sicilian Seafood Cooking—and because my blog is called All Things Sicilian And More—many readers assume that my Christmas table must be strictly Sicilian. It’s a lovely assumption, but like most Italian traditions, the reality is far more regional, varied, and personal.

Buon Natale, and happy cooking!

What Do Italians Eat at Christmas? It Depends Where You Live

Italy has no single “national” Christmas menu.
Food traditions shift dramatically from region to region, and even from town to town.

When I lived in Trieste (in the north), Christmas Day always began with brodo—a clear, comforting broth that signalled the start of a long, leisurely lunch.

Years later, celebrating Christmas in Sicily, the menu was completely different. First courses would be gnucchiteddi (tiny hand-rolled gnocchi) or delicate ravioli di ricotta scented with cinnamon, sugar, and local cheese.

RAVIOLI DI RICOTTA

GNUCCHITEDDI

My family in Ragusa making gnucchiteddi. It is always a family affair.

QUADRUCCI IN BRODO, Squares of home-made Pasta in Broth

Quadrucci – squares of him made pasta with herbs.

BRODO DI GALLINA (Chicken Broth)

GNOCHETI DE GRIES (as called in Trieste), GNOCCHETTI DI SEMOLINO (Italian), SEMOLINA Small GNOCCHI

Gnochetti di Gris.

Even within Sicily—an island smaller than Tasmania—the diversity is astonishing.
Christmas in Ragusa always meant scacce: layered, folded pastries filled with vegetables, ricotta, sausage, tomato, or combinations of all three. They remain a staple of festival tables.

Scacce.

Would Sicilians in Australia be making scacce for Christmas? Perhaps some from Ragusa will—but most Sicilian-Australian menus are shaped by a mixture of regional traditions, personal favourites, and of course the Australian summer.

SCACCE

What I Cook at Christmas

People often ask what I’ll cook for Christmas Eve or Christmas Day. The honest answer: I rarely know until the last minute.

On Christmas Eve, I usually follow Italian custom and eat fish.
On Christmas Day, I like to cook something special that I haven’t made for a while—perhaps pasta with sea urchin (ricci), bottarga, squid ink, crayfish, or crab.

There are many posts on this blog that delve into Christmas dishes from Sicily and other regions of Italy—feel free to explore and adapt them for your own festive table.

But this post is not about planning an entire menu. Instead, it’s about something more universal – Sauces.

Whatever you’re serving this year—seafood salad, roast turkey, grilled vegetables, barbecued meat— a fresh, vibrant sauce can instantly transform a familiar dish into something festive.

Essential Sauces and Dressings for Christmas

Below are some of my favourite sauces—Italian, Sicilian, and beyond—that can brighten any Christmas spread.

Highlight sauces include:

  • Salsa d’Agresto – medieval green grape and nut sauce for roasted meats
  • Salsa Verde – Italian parsley, anchovy and caper sauce for vegetables, fish or cold meats
  • Sicilian Sarsa di Chiappareddi – capers, anchovies and olive oil for grilled fish
  • Bagna Cauda – warm garlic and anchovy dip for mixed vegetables
  • Salmoriglio – Sicilian lemon and oregano dressing ideal for BBQ seafood
  • Homemade Mayonnaise – classic, saffron or tuna versions for cold dishes
  • Romesco Sauce – roasted peppers and almonds for fish and vegetables
  • Salsa Saracina – sweet-and-savoury Sicilian sauce with olives, pine nuts and saffron
  • Hot Mint Sauce – mint, cumin and vinegar for lamb or goat

Use these sauces to lift any Christmas meal—seafood salad, roast turkey, summer vegetables or a simple backyard BBQ. A fresh sauce can transform your festive table.

Salsa d’Agresto (Green Grape Sauce)

A medieval sauce that predates the widespread use of lemons. Traditionally, it relies on the tart juice of unripe grapes (agresto).

It dates pre-Renaissance time and went out of fashion because lemons became popular in cooking and superseded the use of green grape juice. The recipes suggested that the juice of the green grapes can be extracted by using a mouli or a juicer.

Walnuts and almonds are blanched to remove as much skin as possible. My sources indicated that there may have been more walnuts used than almonds in these sauces.

Today you can substitute: verjuice or dry white wine

Key ingredients:

  • blanched walnuts and almonds
  • onion, garlic, parsley
  • breadcrumbs for body
  • a touch of sugar
  • enough agresto/verjuice to form a soft paste.

Onions, garlic and parsley and a few breadcrumbs are pounded together with the nuts. Add a bit of sugar, some chopped parsley and sufficient grape juice to make the amalgamated ingredients soft – like a paste.

Heat these ingredients and add a little broth as the sauce will thickened because the bread crumbs.

Warm gently and thin with broth as needed.
Perfect for roast meats, especially pork, chicken or turkey.

SALSA D’AGRESTO

Salsa Verde – Italian Green Sauce

Salsa verde can be used to jazz anything up – vegetables, roasts, cold meats, smoked fish, crayfish etc. I sometimes use it to stuff hard boiled eggs (remove the yolk, mix with salsa verde and return it to the egg).

Parsley, anchovies, capers, green olives and good olive oil form the backbone of this lively sauce.

SALSA VERDE – ITALIAN GREEN SAUCE

Sarsa di Chiappareddi (Sicilian Caper and Anchovy Sauce)

There may be times when an accompanying sauce for fish cooked in various ways will bring you greater compliments.

Salted capers need to be soaked and rinsed well before use.

The sauce is called sarsa di chiappareddi in Sicilian. Salsa con capperi in Italian.

A beautiful sauce for grilled, baked or fried fish.
What makes it special: high-quality extra virgin olive oil, capers and anchovies from Sicily a fresh, herbal perfume released the moment cold sauce meets hot fish.

Simple, quick, and always impressive.

SARSA DI CHIAPPAREDDI

Bagna Cauda – The Piedmontese “Hot Bath”

Bagna Cauda, translated as “hot bath,” is a dip for any combination of firm vegetables – cooked or uncooked.

A warm, deeply savoury dip from Piedmont. Traditionally served in a communal pot surrounded by:

  • raw or cooked fennel
  • carrots
  • celery
  • cauliflower
  • peppers

Made from:

  • garlic
  • anchovies
  • butter
  • sometimes a little olive oil

It is a hot sauce and it is most essential to use quality, extra virgin, olive oil. This is especially important for cold sauces, – when the cold sauce hits the hot food, the fragrance of the oil will be strongly evident.

 BAGNA CAUDA

Salmurrigghiu / Salmoriglio – Sicilian Citrus-Herb Dressing

Such a simple Sicilian dressing and a Sicilian staple.

Just: extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice, oregano and most times a touch of garlic.

It’s sublime on grilled fish, meat, or vegetables—especially anything coming off the BBQ.

SALAMURRIGGHIU – SALMORIGLIO (salmorigano)

Home-Made Mayonnaise – Classic, Saffron, or Tuna

A good mayonnaise can rescue almost any cold dish.

Maionese.

See:
MAYONNAISE  and SAFFRON MAYONNAISE
INSALATA RUSSA
CHICKEN LAYERED WITH TUNA AND EGG MAYONNAISE
VITELLO TONNATO

Salsa Romesco – Spanish Almond and Pepper Sauce

Originally from Tarragona in Catalonia, though many mistakenly think it is Roman because of the name.

Excellent with:

This sauce is usually associated as a condiment for shellfish and fish. It is also good with eggs and grilled and roasted vegetables (especially cold, left over ones that need dressing up the next day).

Recently, I have been to two restaurants and this sauce was presented with cold asparagus.

Made from:

  • roasted red peppers
  • garlic
  • almonds
  • paprika
  • olive oil

Smoky, sweet, and a crowd-pleaser.

 SALSA ROMESCO

Salsa Saracina (Saracen Sauce)

A unique Sicilian cold sauce that blends:

  • green olives
  • pine nuts
  • sultanas
  • saffron

Often used with fish, but versatile enough for grilled vegetables, cold meats, or even room-temperature salads.It is sweet-and-savoury in the most Sicilian way.

I use it for many  hot or cold foods.

SALSA SARACINA (Saracen sauce)

Green Olive and Anchovy Sauce for Roast Duck

One of the times I roasted a duck I made this special sauce for it, and it tasted great.

  • green anchovies
  • parsley
  • tender celery heart
  • garlic
  • stock and wine added to the roasting pan and reduced in the pan made an excellent gravy.

A rich, aromatic gravy that lifts any roast beautifully and while you are at it, it includes the recipe for cooking the duc

ANATRA A PAPAREDDA CU L’ULIVI

Hot Mint Sauce (Casa Moro)

This is a recipe from Sam and Sam Clark’s Casa Moro, The Second Cookbook. I first had this sauce at a friend’s house accompanying roast goat. I too had this book.

it is a Middle Eastern-inspired sauce that pairs beautifully with:

  • roast goat
  • lamb
  • grilled meats

Made with:

  • mint
  • cumin
  • garlic
  • red wine vinegar or balsamic

Vibrant, earthy, and excellent for outdoor summer meals.

HOT MINT SAUCE

There are many other posts on this blog that delve into Christmas dishes from Sicily and other regions of Italy.  Whether you live in a cold or hot country  explore the content and adapt them for your own festive table.


	


	
	






	
	

		
	

		
A SEAFOOD CHRISTMAS Feast with Fran Kelly – RADIO NATIONAL BREAKFAST PROGRAMME
	


	

		


INTERVIEW ON ABC RADIO NATIONAL BREAKFAST WITH FRAN KELLY discussing a Sicilian seafood feast for an Australian Christmas


I  first published this post on 7/12/2011


This morning I had the privilege of joining Fran Kelly on ABC Radio National’s Breakfast program to talk about my book, Sicilian Seafood Cooking, and the rich traditions of Sicilian Christmas feasts.


We discussed how Sicilians celebrate with seafood but mainly this is on Christmas Eve – elegant, vibrant dishes that capture the essence of the Mediterranean and how Australians might embrace these flavours as a delicious, sustainable alternative to the traditional turkey, chicken, or ham.


When I plan a Christmas menu, I think beyond habit. I consider who I’m feeding, the weather, how much I want to cook, and what looks fresh at the market. I ask myself: what will be the showpiece of this meal? Will it be an antipasto that sets the tone, a luscious pasta, or a stunning main course — or perhaps a series of small, memorable plates that celebrate the diversity of the sea?




ISciacca+fish+B


In Sicilian Seafood Cooking, many traditional recipes call for swordfish and tuna – prized in Sicily but now often overfished. I’ve honoured these dishes by keeping their names and heritage, but I also offer sustainable alternatives, showing that flavour and responsibility can, and should, coexist beautifully on our plates.


Sustainability in seafood isn’t just a trend — it’s an urgent responsibility. The seas that have nourished generations are under increasing pressure, and every choice we make as cooks and consumers matters. In Sicily, the sea is part of daily life; fishermen have long understood the rhythms of the tides and the importance of taking only what the ocean can give. I wanted that same respect to guide my book — to celebrate Sicilian culinary traditions while adapting them for a modern world that demands awareness and care.


By choosing locally sourced, seasonal seafood, we not only protect marine ecosystems but also discover an extraordinary range of flavours and textures. Mackerel, sardines, squid, and mussels can all take centre stage, offering richness and depth equal to that of larger, threatened species. Cooking sustainably is not about compromise — it’s about creativity, connection, and honouring the true spirit of Mediterranean food culture.


spada DSC_0063


Sicilians begin their festive meals simply — perhaps with a plate of glossy olives, a handful of roasted nuts, or a few slivers of marinated seafood. These modest starters are intentional; they tease the palate without spoiling the appetite for what’s to come. Inspired by this tradition, I’ve chosen a light fish entrée to open the meal.


Pasta, of course, is indispensable on a Sicilian table. It’s a celebration in itself, and so I’ve offered several alternatives for the first course — each one reflecting the flavours of the sea and the season. For those who prefer something different, I’ve also included a rice dish. In Sicily, rice was once cooked quite plainly, never stirred continually like a northern risotto, yet always full of character and soul.


By the time you reach the second course, a pause may be welcome — but for those ready to continue, I’ve included two main dishes that bring the feast to a satisfying close. Each one carries the essence of Sicilian cooking: generosity, simplicity, and respect for the ingredients.


Fish restaurant_0118


Vegetables are not part of this particular menu, but they are absolutely central to Sicilian cuisine. In Sicilian Seafood Cooking, I’ve included many vibrant vegetable recipes — dishes that showcase the island’s love of fresh, seasonal produce. And, of course, the book is filled with beautiful photography — not only of the food but also of Sicily itself. As Fran mentioned during our interview, the images capture the soul of the island: its light, its colours, and its deep connection to the sea.


The landscape photographs were taken by my partner during our journeys around Sicily — from bustling fish markets to quiet coastal villages. The food photography was by Graeme Gillies, with styling by Fiona Rigg, whose eye for texture and authenticity brought each dish to life. Every recipe in the book was cooked by me, in just five days, in my small kitchen at home. Meanwhile, the photographer and stylist transformed my dining room into a studio. It was intense, creative, and deeply satisfying .


Starter / Antipasto


TONNO CUNZATO


Raw Marinaded Tuna




The fish needs to be fresh and of excellent quality and sliced thinly. Keep it in the fridge while it is in the marinade. The recipes for marinating tuna suggest using a mixture of 7 parts vinegar to 3 parts lemon juice. I prefer to use just lemon juice or 9 parts lemon juice to 1 part vinegar. You may wish to experiment.


This dish is usually served as an antipasto.


Suitable fish:


The recipe is intended for bluefin tuna which is not sustainable unless it is line caught. Any skinless fillet cut thinly can be marinated the same way.


Ingredients:


500g tuna or other thinly cut, skinless fish


Juice of 4 lemons


¼ – ½ cup white wine vinegar


Dried oregano to taste


2 spring onions (scallions) finely chopped


2-3 stalks celery (pale green stalks and leaves from heart) finely chopped


½ cup capers


¼ cup finely cut parsley


¾ cup extra virgin olive oil


Salt & freshly ground pepper


Method:


Marinate the fish in the lemon juice and vinegar, making sure that the fish is covered with the marinade. Add oregano and place in the fridge for 30 minutes.


For the dressing, mix together the spring onions, celery, capers, parsley, olive oil and seasoning. When ready to serve, remove the fish from the marinade and pour the dressing on top.


 


First Course


RAVIOLI DI RICOTTA CU NIURU DI SICCI


Ricotta Ravioli With Black Ink Sauce






Ingredients


2 ½ cups of ricotta


Salt to taste


Extras: sugar, citrus peel or finely cut marjoram


1 quantity pasta (recipe p45)


 pasta with black inkJPG


Black ink sauce:


600g squid or cuttlefish plus 2-3 ink sacs


1 medium onion &/or 2 cloves garlic


½ cup olive oil


100g ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped


1 large tblsp tomato paste


1 cup finely cut parsley


1 cup white wine


Salt


Chilli flakes or freshly ground pepper


Clean the squid or cuttlefish carefully and extract the ink sac. Cut into 1cm rings and set aside. The tentacles can also be used.


For the sauce, sauté the onion and garlic in the oil, add the tomatoes and tomato paste, parsley, white wine and sale. Bring to the boil and reduce until the salsa is thick.


Cook the pasta.


Add the ink and chilli flakes to the sauce and mix well. Add the squid rings and cook over a medium-high heat until the squid is cooked to your liking.


Method:


Drain the ricotta


Place it in the colander lined with cheesecloth and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight.


Mix the ricotta with a little salt and any of the extra flavourings.


Make the ravioli


The most authentic and quickest way to cut the ravioli is by hand. There is no prescribed size- can be round or square or half-moon shaped.


To make individual ravioli, cut pasta into circles or squares. Place heaped teaspoons of stuffing in the centre of each, continuing until all the stuffing is used. For half-moon shapes fold the pasta over the filling. For others lay another circle or square over the top then moisten edges with a little water and press together carefully to seal properly.


Set the finished ravioli on a lightly floured cloth. They can rest in a cool place for up to two hours.


Cooking


Cook the ravioli as you would any pasta. Lower them into water a few at a time and scoop each out when it floats to the surface.


Dress them carefully with the black ink sauce so as not to break them. Serve as is or with a scoop of ricotta or some grate pecorino.




First course


RISO CON GLI ANGELI


Rice with Angels




Ingredients


400g cockles


400g mussels


3 cups arborio, carnaroli or vialone rice


3 cloves garlic, chopped


½ cup finely cut parsley


¾–1 cup extra virgin olive oil


200g (7oz) prawns, shelled


and de-veined, cut into pieces; some left whole


200g (7oz) squid (small with tentacles), cut into slices


100g (3½oz) of one or a


mixture of: crabs, lobster, Moreton bay bugs, scallops (optional)


grated pecorino


salt and red chilli flakes to taste


vogolefresh2a


Method


Clean the cockles and mussels (see pages 84 and 87). Steam in a covered frying pan coated with a little oil. Once opened, shell them, but reserve some mussels in their shells. Cut up the flesh and save the juice.


While you are preparing the seafood, cook the rice (add the rice to plenty of rapidly boiling, salted water). Drain and place in serving bowl.


In a wide pan, sauté the garlic and parsley in extra virgin olive oil. Add prawns, squid (and any other seafood) and season. Stir for a few minutes, then add the clam juice. Toss for a few minutes without reducing the liquid.


Add mussels and cockles (shelled and unshelled) and heat through.


Mix the seafood with the rice. Arrange some mussels in their shells on top to look like angels with open wings. Serve with grated cheese.


First course


SPAGHETTI CON L ’ARAGOSTA


Spaghetti with crayfish


pasta e granchi (crabs)_0090


 


The terms lobster and crayfish are often used interchangeably, but the marine species are lobsters and the freshwater species are crayfish. There are many types of lobsters known by a variety of local names.


Lobsters (aragoste) are popular around Trapani, although they are expensive. When making pasta with aragosta, I often buy spiders (the legs) – they can be quite meaty and very suitable for a pasta dish that requires cooked lobster. When buying lobster, select a heavy specimen with a good strong shell. They molt several times in their life cycle and, if they are pale with a thin shell, they are not likely to have much flesh. As for size, anything less than 1.5 kg (3lb 5oz) is not worth buying – a lobster under that size doesn’t have enough meat, especially from the spiders.


There is no comparison between the taste of a freshly cooked lobster and one purchased already cooked.Although this recipe is especially suited for lobsters, other crustaceans can be used.

This dish requires cooked lobster and it is added last. The other ingredient sare raw and pounded in a mortar and pestle (or pulsed in a food processor). The raw ingredients can also be finely chopped and mixed together. Use fresh ripe tomatoes.


This pasta dish is fantastic for the hot weather and it could be part of a celebratory lunch (such as Christmas in the Southern Hemisphere).


Ingredients


Lobster, no less than 50g (1¾oz) of meat per person


Juice of 3 lemons, plus grated zest of 1 lemon


about ½ cup extra virgin olive oil


2 cloves garlic


600g (1lb 5oz) ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and drained, chopped


1 small bunch of basil


½ cup finely cut parsley


½ cup capers; if salted soaked and thoroughly rinsed


500g (17½oz) spaghetti or spaghettini


salt and freshly ground pepper to taste


Method


Remove the flesh from the lobster, tear or cut into small portions and place it in a bowl with the juice of 1 lemon and some of the oil.


Use a mortar and pestle to combine the rest of the ingredients. Begin with


the garlic, then add the tomatoes, seasoning, and some more oil. Then stir in


the basil, parsley capers and, lastly, the zest of 1 lemon – stir these into the


pesto. Add some of the lemon juice, taste the pesto and add more if necessary


(you may not need all of the lemon juice).


Cook and drain the spaghetti. Arrange in a serving bowl, add the pesto


and lobster and mix it gently. I like to add more grated lemon zest on top.


 


Second Course


CALAMARETTI RIPIENI CON MARSALA E MANDORLE


Stuffed calamari with fresh cheese, almonds and nutmeg braised in marsala




Ingredients


6 medium squid (or 12 small squid)


1 cup breadcrumbs, made from good-quality day-old bread, toasted in a little oil


2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, finely cut


¼–½ teaspoon nutmeg


150g (5oz) fresh cheese (tuma, pecorino fresco, mozzarella, fior di latte or bocconcini), cut into small cubes


1 cup dry marsala


½ cup almonds, blanched and chopped


3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil


salt and freshly ground pepper to taste


Squid@market_0022 copy


Method


Clean the squid: pull off the head and the inside of the squid and discard. Cut


off tentacles and save them for another time.


Mix the remaining ingredients except the oil together; check the seasoning.


Stuff the squid and secure each end with a toothpick.


Sauté each squid in olive oil – when the juice escapes it caramelises – turning once only during cooking. Alternatively, cover with foil and bake in a 200°C (400°F) oven for about 10 minutes. The squid will produce its own juice. To caramelise, remove foil and bake the squid for an extra 10 minutes.


Variation


Add chopped pistachio rather than almonds.


 


Second course


PESCE INFORNATO CON PATATE ACETO E ACCIUGHE 


Baked fish with potatoes, vinegar and anchovies


 




Ingredients


1–1.5kg (2lb 4oz–3lb 5oz) whole fish, or large pieces


½ cup extra virgin olive oil


3 tablespoons red wine vinegar


2 onions, finely chopped a small bunch parsley, finely chopped


250g (9oz) potatoes, thinly sliced


3–6 anchovies, finely chopped (see above)


juice of 2 lemons, plus grated zest of 1 lemon


salt and freshly ground pepper to taste


snapper


Suitable fish


Any whole fish or large fillets of medium to firm fish, preferably with the skin


on. The fish is cooked whole and carved like meat at the table.


Method


If using whole fish or fillets with skin, make a series of slashes in the skin. Mix


the oil with the vinegar, onions and parsley. Add seasoning and marinate the


fish for about an hour, turning frequently.


Place the fish in an ovenproof dish, spoon half of the marinade over it and bake for 10 minutes in a 200°C (400°F) oven. Arrange the sliced potatoes around the fish. Sprinkle the potatoes and the fish with more marinade, the anchovies, lemon juice and grated zest. Bake for another 20–35 minutes, depending on the type of fish. Serve hot.


Variation


 Place rosemary and bay leaves underneath the fish in the baking pan.


SICILIAN SEAFOOD CHRISTMAS: My interview with Fran Kelly was mainly about my book, SICILIAN SEAFOOD COOKING. She asked me submit some recipes that would be suitable for an Australian Christmas


https://www.abc.net.au/listen/programs/radionational-breakfast/3719180


 


BAKED FISH WITH POTATOES and ANCHOVIES


CALAMARI RIPIENI CON FORMAGGIO FRESCO E MARSALA (Stuffed calamari with fresh cheese and braised in marsala)






 

	


	
	






	
	

		
	

		
MERCATO 625-627 Lower North East Road Campbelltown, SA. Sicilian Cooking class, Marisa Raniolo Wilkins
	


	

		


La Cucina 






Tradizionale Siciliana 


with


Marisa Raniolo Wilkins






at MERCATO


625 – 627 Lower North East Road Campbelltown SA ph: 08 8337 1808 fax: 08 8337 8024 e: marketing@mercato.com.au book online: http://www.mercato.com.au








 




About Marisa Raniolo Wilkins…


Like a true Sicilian, Marisa Raniolo Wilkins is a lively fusion of cultures and experience. She was born to Sicilian parents in Ragusa, but she spent her childhood in the far northeast of Italy in the famous port city of Trieste, where her parents had met. In her summer holidays Marisa would travel to Sicily to visit her relatives. This was where Marisa learnt about food and cooking from her Sicilian relatives.


“My mother always told me that my father’s family knew nothing about cooking, but it was my father’s sisters who were some of my greatest inspirations in the kitchen,” Marisa says.


Marisa and her family migrated to Australia in the late-1950s and settled in Adelaide, not far from where Imma and Mario established Mercato. Growing up in Adelaide, Marisa always kept in touch with Sicily and maintained her interest in flavours and ingredients.


Over the years she has travelled to Sicily many times to visit her extended family, adding to her store of first-hand experience with every visit. Marisa enjoyed a successful career as a teacher and educationist in South Australia before moving to Melbourne in early 2002.


As she was getting settled in Melbourne, and in between jobs, Marisa rediscovered her passion for writing and her ambition to write a book about Sicilian cuisine and to document some of the classic, local Sicilian dishes cooked by her grandmothers and aunties and food that she has eaten throughout the island of Sicily. The result, eight years later, is her book, Sicilian Seafood Cooking, published by New Holland in November 2011.








 




Photos courtesy of Bob Evans 








Modern takes on traditional Sicilian dishes. Although Sicily is not a large Island, the cuisine varies considerably from region to region.

In this food workshop & cooking demonstration Marisa Raniolo Wilkins, author of the book Sicilian Seafood Cooking, will prepare and demonstrate the ways Sicilian cuisine has been shaped and influenced by the dominant cultures of the Mediterranean from the ancient times to the modern day, which includes Greek, Roman, Arabic, French and Spanish cultures.Marisa will share her experience in the kitchen and her love of Sicilian Cuisine.


~Menu~

Caponata

When you go to Sicily, you must eat Caponata & you may have thought that eggplants are the main ingredient. Marisa will make different caponate

(plural of caponata) which feature different

ingredients that reflect the seasons.

Paired with 2011 Tavignano Verdicchio Villa Torre


 


Pasta alla Norma

Pasta alla Norma is a traditional dish from Catania.

In modern restaurants & kitchens it is now presented in a variety of creative ways that reflect the inevitable fusions of cuisines across the world. Marisa will prepare different variations of the dish that she experienced in her recent trip to Sicily, including some that use fish.

Paired with 2009 Baglio Curatolo Nero d’Avola, SicilyCucciaYou will also experience a modern version of a very ancient dessert called Cuccia that has deep-rooted religious and seasonal associations.

Paired with 2010 Etna Rosso Erse, Sicily


When: Friday 12th July 2013




Where: at Mercato in the demo kitchen

625-627 Lower North East Road

Campbelltown SA


Tickets: $120 per person

This class starts at 6.30pm and runs for approximately 3 hours and includes detailed recipe notes, delicious food matched with a tasting of Italian wine and informative, fun conversation.

We also offer all guests 10% discount on any purchases made in-store on the evening

This class has a limit of 16 people.






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CHRISTMAS RECIPES with a Sicilian theme and “Feast of the Seven Fishes.”
	


	

		
I prefer the Christmas celebration to be on Christmas Eve, called La Vigilia (the Vigil) in Italian.




In Sicily, as in many parts of Italy, the Christmas Eve celebration is deeply rooted in Catholicism and tradition, and one of the most cherished customs is sharing a festive meal with family and friends on La Vigilia. This meal features fish, and/ or vegetarian content.


IMG_3148










This post was originally written on 20 December 2012 to share the types of Sicilian fish dishes I might cook in Australia on Christmas Eve (or during the festive period). The traditions and recipes remain relevant today, so I am bringing this post back to the spotlight for another festive season.


Italy is characterised by centuries-old Catholic traditions of fasting and abstaining from meat on certain holy days, including Fridays, Good Friday and the Vigil of Christmas. This once-simple custom has evolved into the grand feast that marks the commencement of Christmas celebrations.


Following the meal, many Italians attend Midnight Mass to honour the holiday’s religious significance. While some choose to celebrate the vigil without attending Mass, others prefer to participate in the service on Christmas Day itself. Regardless of when or how they celebrate, the spirit of togetherness and tradition for La Vigilia endures for families across Italy.


In Italy, Christmas Day is usually a more relaxed affair, with people often catching up with mates and enjoying lighter meals. But here in Australia, many Italians celebrate Christmas Day with great enthusiasm, especially in families with diverse backgrounds and larger households.














I have many readers from U.S. who are probably wondering if for La Vigilia (Christmas Eve) I will take part in the so-called The Feast of the Seven Fishes. This was never part of my upbringing and I have Sicilian relatives in Ragusa, Catania and Augusta.


The Feast of the Seven Fishes is a tradition strongly observed among Italian Americans of Sicilian and Southern Italian background. It is particularly prevalent in the Northeast United States, including New York and New Jersey, and is practised in various forms across the country.


The feast typically features a substantial meal with a diverse selection of seafood dishes, often comprising seven different types of fish or seven courses. The number of courses may vary depending on family traditions.






I first encountered The Feast of the Seven Fishes through a conversation with Mary Taylor Simeti who was visiting Australia for a Food and wine Festival when we were both interviewed by Jane O’Connor for an article in the December 2010 issue of Italianicious.  We were asked what we had on our tables on Christmas day and we both said that we generally ate lightly as we liked to celebrate on Christmas Eve.


Xmas-baubles-852x564


Mary, is a revered voice in Sicilian cuisine and culture, is a brilliant and widely published writer and historian whose insights into the food of Sicily are unparalleled. She has written very notable books and articles in Italian and English. She is originally American, has married a Sicilian and lives in Sicily, and has done so for many years. She is a strong Sicilian voice. As we sat down to discuss the tradition, I couldn’t help but feel intrigued by this notion, though both Mary and I were quick to admit that we had never encountered it in Sicily itself. In all our cumulative years (especially Mary’s) of experience with Sicilian food and culture, The Feast of the Seven Fishes had not appeared on a Sicilian table.


The significance of the number seven is open to interpretation. While not strictly required, it holds considerable symbolic meaning. In Catholicism, for example, it is considered sacred, representing the seven days of creation, the seven sacraments, the seven virtues or deadly sins, or the seven hills of Rome.


IMG_3697


In my book Sicilian Seafood Cooking, and on my blog you’ll find a range of recipes perfect for Christmas Eve. I really like the idea of preparing several courses, and it’s easy to start with something light like a vegetarian dish (bring on grilled zucchini, eggplants and peppers or a Caponata or Parmigiana!) or a seafood salad or fish—thinly sliced, raw and marinaded.




A small serve of seafood pasta could be followed by a light serving of rolled fish, baked fish or a baccalà (salted cod) dish. Baccalà is traditionally consumed in many parts of Italy, including Trieste where I lived as a child. Eel is also a popular dish in many regions.






There are also many recipes that could be useful for this holiday period on my blog. Here are only a few:


( ***There are numerous recipes in this Post. I was interviewed on ABC with Fran Kelly Dec 2011. A SEAFOOD CHRISTMAS Feast with Fran Kelly – RADIO NATIONAL BREAKFAST PROGRAMME)


Pasta dishes I particularly like preparing:


PASTA CON LE SARDE (SARDINES)


PASTA CON LE SARDE, an iconic Sicilian recipe from Palermo. Cooked at Slow Food Festival Melbourne


SPAGHETTI WITH CRAYFISH OR CRAB (Spaghetti con Aragosta o Granco)


PASTA CON BOTTARGA ( Pasta with Grated Bottarga)


MONTALBANO’S PASTA WITH BLACK INK SAUCE




PESCE ALLA GHIOTTA  (Sicilian Fish, a recipe to satisfy the gluttons)







COZZE CON SAMBUCA (Mussels with Sambuca- anise flavoured liqueur)


GAMBERI AL COGNAC (Prawns cooked with cognac or brandy)




BAKED BACCALÀ (Baccalaru ‘o fornu – Sicilian and Baccalà al forno- Italian)




FISH BRAISE WITH TOMATOES, GARLIC, RED CHILLIES AND ANCHOVIES




RICH FISH SOUP FROM SYRACUSE COOKED IN THE OVEN


CAPONATA SICILIANA (CATANESE; Caponata as made in Catania)


CAPONATA Catanese (from Catania) made easy with photos


CASSATA (It is perfect for an Australian Christmas) CASSATA DECONSTRUCTED – a postmodernist take on Sicilian Cassata




CHRISTMAS DOLCI and DOLCETTI and Pistachio Shortbread Biscuit


GIUGGIULENA (also CUBBAITA) – a brittle Sicilian toffee of sugar and honey with sesame seeds and almonds




 

	


	
	






	
	

		
	

		
PESCE ALLA GHIOTTA (Sicilian Fish, a recipe to satisfy the gluttons)
	


	

		
Wendy is a friend who lives in Ardrossan, a small town on the east coast of the Yorke Peninsula (about 150 km from Adelaide). She and her husband have a boat and they often go fishing. I too have gone fishing on their boat and watched them catch fish, mainly King George Whiting, Squid and Garfish.






To make me jealous and as a subtle way to suggest I should go to visit them, she sent me a photograph of a large Australian Salmon she caught recently; she then sent me more photos of how she cooked it.




Australian Salmon belongs to the perch family (surprisingly it is not a salmon). As you can see from the photo Wendy has filleted the fish. Some people find this fish very fishy, but it lends itself to recipes with strong accompanying flavours.




Wendy chose a recipe from my book, Sicilian Seafood Cooking. The recipe is Fish alla ghiotta from Messina and is cooked with tomatoes, green olives, capers, pine nuts and currants (AGGHIOTTA DI PISCI A MISSINISA – PESCE ALLA GHIOTTA ALLA MESSINESE).




 


There are many variations of this dish and this one contains Sicilian flavours in excess –  it is sure to satisfy the gluttons.


Sicilians use piscispata (Sicilian for swordfish; pescespada is the Italian), but any cutlets of firm, large fish cut into thick slices or thick fillets are suitable. I like to buy sustainable seafood and  have used: Flathead, Trevally, Kingfish, Snapper, Mackerel and Barramundi. Obviously Australian Salmon can now be added to this list but in Victoria I have not seen much of this fish.


INGREDIENTS

1 cup extra virgin olive oil

6 x 200g (7oz.) fish steaks or

cutlets

1 celery stalk, finely chopped

1 onion, finely sliced

¾ cup salted capers, soaked and washed

1 cup green olives, pitted and chopped

2 cloves garlic, chopped

½ cup currants, soaked in a little warm water for about 15 minutes

½ cup pine nuts

2 – 3 bay leaves

500g (17oz.) tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped (tinned are OK)

salt and freshly ground black pepper


PROCESSES

Heat the extra virgin olive oil in a wide pan, large enough to accommodate the fish in one layer. Shallow-fry the fish for a couple of minutes on both sides over medium-high heat to seal. Remove from the pan and set aside.


For la ghiotta, add the celery and onion to the same oil, and cook until softened, about five minutes. Stir frequently. Reduce heat to medium, then add the capers, olives, garlic, currants, pine nuts and bay leaves and stir well. Add tomatoes, season, stir, and cook for about ten minutes until some of the juice from the tomatoes has reduced.

Arrange the fish in the sauce in one layer and spoon some of the sauce over it. Cover, and cook on moderate heat until the fish is done.




Thank you Wendy for all of these wonderful photos and I am so glad that you enjoyed it.


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PASTA CON SPADA E MENTA (Pasta with swordfish and mint)
	


	

		
Coinciding with the Long Weekend in October on Saturday Beachport had one of their regular Market Days, which are held at various times through the year.


dsc_2122


Beachport is a small seaside town in the South East of South Australia close to Robe and Millicent. Anyone familiar with South Australian wine would know about the Limestone Coast and the Coonawarra wine regions. Both are close by. Neighbouring wine regions include Wrattonbully and Mount Benson.




On the foreshore at Beachport there is a large, impressive landmark. It is an historic property called Bompas, formerly Beachport’s original hotel. Bompas has been through many changes, but since April 2012 Sarah and Jeremy are bringing life back into this independent, boutique hotel that serves as a cafe, restaurant and bar with unique accommodation and function facilities.


The reason I am writing about Bompas is that on the October Long Weekend the menu at Bompas featured Pasta with swordfish and mint, one of the recipes in Sicilian Seafood Cooking.The weekend was also the launch of their Asian menu which proved to be very popular.




Sarah and Jeremy now have Trish, an enthusiastic, local and young chef who is very happy to be there and they are equally pleased with her.




In the traditional Sicilian recipe swordfish is the preferred fish, a dense textured fish. I prefer to use sustainable fish and use, mackerel, burramundi, flathead, rockling, yellowtail kingfish or Mahi Mahi. Shell fish also enhances the sweetness of the dish and Sarah, Jeremy and Trish used scallops. They are also looking forward to using local fish on their menu (the fishing season has just started).


Trish did an excellent job of preparing the dish, but what it taught me as the writer is that it may have been useful to include extra hints in the recipe to clarify the process of cooking. Chefs may know how to do it, but what about the person who is not familiar with Italian cooking?


There is so much more advice that the writer of recipes may need to give. For example:


The recipe contains zucchini. What I wish to say is that Italians do overcook vegetables by our standards and in this case it is fairly important that the zucchini are sliced thinly and sautéed till soft – the recipe does not say this. The cooking releases the sweet juices of the zucchini and these are also added to the pasta and contribute to the flavour the dish.


There is also a fair amount of mint, this is added in the cooking process and at the end.


An other thing is that the wine needs to be evaporated so as to caramelize the juices released by the fish when this is sautéed.


And finally, all of the ingredients need to be hot when they are mixed together; this enables the fresh cheese to soften.


For 4-6 people


INGREDIENTS

pasta, 500g, ribbed, tubular like rigatoni or similar

fish, 400g, cut into pieces (4cm)

extra virgin

olive oil, ¾ cup

white wine, ½ cup

garlic, 3 cloves, chopped

mint, fresh, 15-20 leaves

salt and pepper to taste

formaggio fresco or fresh mozzarella or bocconcini, 300g,

salt and freshly ground pepper to taste


PROCESSES

Cut the cheese into small cubes and set aside.

Heat the extra virgin olive oil; add the fish or shellfish and sauté it till it      is lightly coloured.

Add the garlic, wine, about a third of the mint and seasoning to the fish. Cover and cook gently till the fish is ready.

Combine fish, cheese and extra mint leaves (large leaves can be cut into smaller pieces).

Add the sauce to cooked and drained pasta, mix and and serve.


VARIATION

Add slices of 2-3 lightly fried zucchini (cooked separately in some extra virgin olive oil and added at the end). Add any juices left over from the zucchini.

To complement the green colour of the dish I sometimes sprinkle pistachio nuts on top.


I contribute a recipe for Seafoodnews a monthly publication.This is the same recipe and photo of the dish I submitted for the October issue.


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MARISA RANIOLO WILKINS and SICILIAN SEAFOOD COOKING, Media Coverage
	


	

		


MARISA RANIOLO WILKINS and SICILIAN SEAFOOD COOKING (New Holland Publication). 


Media coverage for Sicilian Seafood Cooking


Radio: Sicilian Seafood Cooking, 20011 and 2012


Prime Radio Network w Laurie Atlas Nov 2


Radio 3AW/1593am w Tony Tardio Nov 4


Rete Italia Radio w Pino and Lina (Ivano Ercole) Nov 4


Joy FM ‘Cravings’ with Pete Dillon Nov 5


Radio MTR 1377 w Steve Vizard Major MetroNov 7


Radio Adelaide 101.5 w Bruce Guerin “Gastronaut’ Nov 23


ABC Adelaide w Carole Whitelock Major metro Nov 25


5AA Adelaide with Michael Keelan, Nov 27


ABC South East with Alan Richardson Nov 29



GB Sydney with Warren Moore Jan 2,


5MU Power Fm Adelaide Jan 30,


 Marisa & Richard




Printed media for Sicilian Seafood Cooking


Italianicious – January 2012 Fuelled by Passion

Italianicious – November- December 2010, For the Love of Sicily

Seafood News launch of Sicilian Seafood Cooking



Canberra Times, Sunday 13/11/2011


Leader newspapers: Wyndham Weekly, Northern Weekly, Banyule and Nillumbic Weekly, Northern Weekly, North Side


West Australian: Broadbrush 22/12/11


Adelaide Review, February 2012



Fishing Lines, Magazine of Victoria’s Peak Recreational Fishing Body

Autumn 2012 Catching Squid and stuffing it

Winter 2012 Fish balls in sauce


Border Mail (Albury Wodonga)


ISSUU magazine Feb 2, 2012


Readers Feast, Book guide, Summer 2011 (Helen’s choice)



Epicure,The Age, July 2012


Richard launches book adj




Online 





wine, food, hotel Sicilian Seafood Cooking review



Weekend Notes Sicilian Seafood Cooking launch





PS News Seafood Feast

Epicure, The Age




Commendations


All Things Sicilian and More, Local expert blog award







Various recipes and articles published in  – TSSA’s newsletter (The Sicilian Association of Australia)




U-tube


ABC Food Sardines a Beccafico, stuffed with currants and pinenuts , Video/ Recipe cooked by Sean Connelly: http://www.sbs.com.au/ondemand/video/11731011790/Sardines-a-beccaficoSBS Food Eggplant or Zucchini Parmigiana




Richard, Fiona & Marisa at launch


 Richard Cornish launched the book and Fiona Rigg (in the centre) was the food stylist for Sicilian Seafood Cooking.






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