I prefer the Christmas celebration to be on Christmas Eve, called La Vigilia (the Vigil) in Italian.
In Sicily, as in many parts of Italy, the Christmas Eve celebration is deeply rooted in Catholicism and tradition, and one of the most cherished customs is sharing a festive meal with family and friends on La Vigilia. This meal features fish, and/ or vegetarian content.
This post was originally written on 20 December 2012 to share the types of Sicilian fish dishes I might cook in Australia on Christmas Eve (or during the festive period). The traditions and recipes remain relevant today, so I am bringing this post back to the spotlight for another festive season.
Italy is characterised by centuries-old Catholic traditions of fasting and abstaining from meat on certain holy days, including Fridays, Good Friday and the Vigil of Christmas. This once-simple custom has evolved into the grand feast that marks the commencement of Christmas celebrations.
Following the meal, many Italians attend Midnight Mass to honour the holiday’s religious significance. While some choose to celebrate the vigil without attending Mass, others prefer to participate in the service on Christmas Day itself. Regardless of when or how they celebrate, the spirit of togetherness and tradition for La Vigilia endures for families across Italy.
In Italy, Christmas Day is usually a more relaxed affair, with people often catching up with mates and enjoying lighter meals. But here in Australia, many Italians celebrate Christmas Day with great enthusiasm, especially in families with diverse backgrounds and larger households.
I have many readers from U.S. who are probably wondering if for La Vigilia (Christmas Eve) I will take part in the so-called The Feast of the Seven Fishes. This was never part of my upbringing and I have Sicilian relatives in Ragusa, Catania and Augusta.
The Feast of the Seven Fishes is a tradition strongly observed among Italian Americans of Sicilian and Southern Italian background. It is particularly prevalent in the Northeast United States, including New York and New Jersey, and is practised in various forms across the country.
The feast typically features a substantial meal with a diverse selection of seafood dishes, often comprising seven different types of fish or seven courses. The number of courses may vary depending on family traditions.
I first encountered The Feast of the Seven Fishes through a conversation with Mary Taylor Simeti who was visiting Australia for a Food and wine Festival when we were both interviewed by Jane O’Connor for an article in the December 2010 issue of Italianicious. We were asked what we had on our tables on Christmas day and we both said that we generally ate lightly as we liked to celebrate on Christmas Eve.
Mary, is a revered voice in Sicilian cuisine and culture, is a brilliant and widely published writer and historian whose insights into the food of Sicily are unparalleled. She has written very notable books and articles in Italian and English. She is originally American, has married a Sicilian and lives in Sicily, and has done so for many years. She is a strong Sicilian voice. As we sat down to discuss the tradition, I couldn’t help but feel intrigued by this notion, though both Mary and I were quick to admit that we had never encountered it in Sicily itself. In all our cumulative years (especially Mary’s) of experience with Sicilian food and culture, The Feast of the Seven Fishes had not appeared on a Sicilian table.
The significance of the number seven is open to interpretation. While not strictly required, it holds considerable symbolic meaning. In Catholicism, for example, it is considered sacred, representing the seven days of creation, the seven sacraments, the seven virtues or deadly sins, or the seven hills of Rome.
In my book Sicilian Seafood Cooking, and on my blog you’ll find a range of recipes perfect for Christmas Eve. I really like the idea of preparing several courses, and it’s easy to start with something light like a vegetarian dish (bring on grilled zucchini, eggplants and peppers or a Caponata or Parmigiana!) or a seafood salad or fish—thinly sliced, raw and marinaded.
A small serve of seafood pasta could be followed by a light serving of rolled fish, baked fish or a baccalà (salted cod) dish. Baccalà is traditionally consumed in many parts of Italy, including Trieste where I lived as a child. Eel is also a popular dish in many regions.
There are also many recipes that could be useful for this holiday period on my blog. Here are only a few:
( ***There are numerous recipes in this Post. I was interviewed on ABC with Fran Kelly Dec 2011. A SEAFOOD CHRISTMAS Feast with Fran Kelly – RADIO NATIONAL BREAKFAST PROGRAMME)
Pasta dishes I particularly like preparing:
PASTA CON LE SARDE, an iconic Sicilian recipe from Palermo. Cooked at Slow Food Festival Melbourne
SPAGHETTI WITH CRAYFISH OR CRAB (Spaghetti con Aragosta o Granco)
PASTA CON BOTTARGA ( Pasta with Grated Bottarga)
MONTALBANO’S PASTA WITH BLACK INK SAUCE
PESCE ALLA GHIOTTA (Sicilian Fish, a recipe to satisfy the gluttons)
COZZE CON SAMBUCA (Mussels with Sambuca- anise flavoured liqueur)
GAMBERI AL COGNAC (Prawns cooked with cognac or brandy)
BAKED BACCALÀ (Baccalaru ‘o fornu – Sicilian and Baccalà al forno- Italian)
FISH BRAISE WITH TOMATOES, GARLIC, RED CHILLIES AND ANCHOVIES
RICH FISH SOUP FROM SYRACUSE COOKED IN THE OVEN
CAPONATA SICILIANA (CATANESE; Caponata as made in Catania)
CAPONATA Catanese (from Catania) made easy with photos
CASSATA (It is perfect for an Australian Christmas) CASSATA DECONSTRUCTED – a postmodernist take on Sicilian Cassata
CHRISTMAS DOLCI and DOLCETTI and Pistachio Shortbread Biscuit
GIUGGIULENA (also CUBBAITA) – a brittle Sicilian toffee of sugar and honey with sesame seeds and almonds
Dear Marisa
I love your blog and was interested to see your reference to Montalbano. I hope it is ok that I have included a link to your blog on the ‘Sicilian food’ page of the website http://www.montalbano.com.au. Best wishes!
Yes, Thank you. I also have a post called MONTALBANO’S PASTA WITH BLACK INK SAUCE.