Tag: Sicilian Seafood Cooking

SUSTAINABLE SHELLFISH: Choices Shape the Sea’s Future

Shellfish like mussels, oysters, and clams stand out as excellent examples of environmentally friendly, sustainable seafood, offering nutritious, delicious meals that also help protect our oceans.

When we choose sustainable seafood, we make a decision that makes an impact far beyond our plate. Shellfish like mussels, oysters, and clams are not only delicious—they’re also some of the most sustainable sources of protein on the planet. By understanding how these ocean creatures are farmed and harvested, we can enjoy their rich flavours while helping protect marine ecosystems for generations to come.

In this post I have written about the sustainability of mussels and shellfish in Australia and Italy and have included a recipe from my book: Sicilian Seafood Cooking , called RISO CON GLI ANGELI, Rice with angels. 

The photo is by Graeme Gillies, food stylist is Fiona Rigg.

Sustainability of Mussels:

Mussels are one of the most sustainable seafood choices available. They are filter feeders, meaning they naturally clean the water by removing excess nutrients and improving marine ecosystems as they grow. Mussel farming requires no feed, antibiotics, or fertilizers—just clean ocean water and space to attach—making their carbon footprint incredibly low compared to other forms of aquaculture. In fact, mussel farms often enhance biodiversity by creating habitats for small fish and marine life. Choosing sustainably farmed mussels supports healthy oceans and promotes environmentally responsible seafood consumption.

Sustainability of Shellfish:
Shellfish such as oysters, clams, and scallops also play a vital role in marine sustainability. Like mussels, they filter and purify seawater, improving coastal water quality while producing protein-rich food with minimal environmental impact. Shellfish farms typically use natural growing methods that require no added feed or chemicals, and they can even help restore damaged marine habitats. Supporting sustainable shellfish industries not only helps maintain balanced ecosystems but also ensures future generations can enjoy nutritious seafood without depleting ocean resources.

MUSSELS

Enjoy a mussel or two – glossy black shells, the faint scent of the sea and one of the ocean’s simplest pleasures – affordable, sustainable, and bursting with flavour. Their magic lies in their simplicity: they cook in minutes, just until their shells open, releasing their own briny liquor that becomes the base for a deeply aromatic broth.

I always enjoy watching guests pry open the shells to reveal the plump, sweet flesh within. Beyond their taste, mussels are among the most environmentally responsible seafood options. They require no feed, thrive naturally in clean waters, and even improve water quality as they grow.

Sustainability of Mussels In Australia

The primary species farmed in Australia is the Blue Mussel, harvested sustainably from the pristine southern waters of South Australia, Tasmania, and Victoria. Valued for its delicate sweetness and versatility, the Blue Mussel is a standout example of responsible aquaculture.

As natural filter-feeders, mussels draw nutrients directly from the water, requiring no additional feed or chemicals — giving them an exceptionally low environmental footprint compared to fed aquaculture. In fact, Australian Blue Mussels are considered one of the most sustainably farmed seafoods in the world.

Mussels are typically grown using suspended culture techniques. Baby mussels, or spat, attach themselves to ropes or socks suspended from floating lines or buoys. Over 12–18 months, they grow plump and flavourful in sheltered, clean sea waters.

In Victoria’s Port Phillip Bay, thousands of mussels dangle beneath the surface, nourished by the cool, nutrient-rich currents until harvest. Sea Bounty Mussels, one of the region’s leading producers, farms approximately 1,000 tonnes annually and is certified organic — a shining example of how local aquaculture can blend sustainability and quality.

Australia’s mussel story is one of balance — local flavour, clean waters, and growing global recognition.

Mussels in Victoria

Living in Melbourne, I’ve become particularly fascinated by Victoria’s growing mussel industry — a story of innovation, sustainability, and local pride.

In 2023/24, Victoria produced around 1,700 tonnes of mussels, valued at approximately AU$6 million.

The Victorian Government recently invested AU$1.25 million to open 290 hectares of new aquaculture reserve waters, expected to boost production by around 700 tonnes.

Australia’s productivity growth is reflected in its evolving relationship with mussels, a humble seafood that’s making its mark on both the culinary scene and policy-making.

Environmental and Regulatory Considerations for Mussels

While mussel farming is generally regarded as sustainable, it’s not without challenges. Careful site selection and regulation are essential to avoid disrupting local ecosystems.

For example, in New South Wales, concerns have arisen about mussel larvae and invasive species spreading near conservation areas, such as the Jervis Bay Marine Park. These examples highlight the importance of thoughtful management to ensure mussel farming remains a net positive for marine environments.

Mussels in Italy: Tradition Meets Taste

Mussels, known as cozze, have long been a culinary and cultural staple in Italy. The country ranks among Europe’s largest producers of Mediterranean Mussels accounting for up to two-thirds of EU production.

According to Italy’s Multi-annual National Strategic Plans for Aquaculture (2021–2030), mussel farming dominates much of the country’s shellfish industry particularly in regions such as Emilia-Romagna Veneto and the Po Delta.

Sustainability of Mussels in Italy

While Italian mussel farming is relatively low-impact environmental considerations remain. The farming system also faces modern sustainability questions including plastic loss at sea, boat fuel usage and sediment build-up under farms.

Nonetheless mussels provide a valuable ecosystem service. In nutrient-rich waters they help remove nitrogen and phosphorus acting as natural filters that maintain ecological balance.

SHELLFISH SUSTAINABILITY IN AUSTRALIA AND ITALY

While Australian farms emphasise organic certification and clean waters Italian farms rely on long-tradition coastal heritage and high-volume production.

As consumers become more aware of how their food choices impact the planet, seafood sustainability has become an important focus. Mussels and other shellfish stand out as excellent examples of environmentally friendly seafood, offering nutritious, delicious meals that also help protect our oceans.

Mussels in Cuisine

Mussels are a versatile and delicious seafood celebrated in kitchens worldwide.

Due to Australia’s diverse food cultures, mussels are often prepared simply steamed with white wine, garlic and herbs. They are commonly served in pasta dishes or paella. Some recipes involve grilling them to open them, which is less common. A popular preparation is to steam them in coconut milk with lemongrass, chilli and fragrant herbs and spices. 

Mussels are a staple ingredient in Italian cuisine, featured in a wide variety of dishes including pasta, risotto, stuffed with breadcrumbs and in seafood and fish soups. Their briny juices are used to enhance the many versions of wet mussel dishes with various aromatic herbal sauces. This is also the  popular way that mussels are featured in other European cuisine.

In European cultures such as France, Greece and Spain, mussels are a prominent feature of culinary traditions, particularly in wet dishes served with rich herbal and fragrant sauces.

Shellfish in Cuisine

Shellfish hold an important place in both Australian and Italian cuisines, though they are celebrated in distinct ways. In Australia, fresh local shellfish such as oysters, mussels, and scallops are often enjoyed simply—grilled, steamed, or served raw to highlight their clean, ocean-fresh flavour.

Italian cuisine, on the other hand, weaves shellfish into regional dishes that showcase centuries of coastal tradition, from spaghetti alle vongole to seafood risottos and mixed fritto di mare. In both countries, shellfish embody the connection between coastal living, fresh ingredients, and a deep respect for the sea.

RISO CON GLI ANGELI, Rice with angels

This Sicilian-inspired shellfish recipe is a celebration of the sea—fresh, vibrant, and deeply rooted in both tradition and sustainability.  It is a recipe in my book called Sicilian Seafood Cooking. (Angels by PONTORMO)

Sicily is an island and this recipe draws on the island’s rich coastal heritage, it brings together the pure flavours of sustainably sourced shellfish with the bright, sun-soaked ingredients that define Sicilian cuisine – garlic, olive oil, and a touch of chilli.

Every element of this dish reflects respect for the ocean and the land, showcasing how responsible seafood choices can deliver both environmental benefits and unforgettable Mediterranean flavour. It’s a recipe that tastes as good as it feels—simple, elegant, and sustainably delicious.

Interesting Observations in Sicilian Cooking

In Sicilian cooking, grated cheese is used sparingly with seafood—if at all—but when it is, it’s done with intention. Rather than overpowering the delicate flavours of the sea, a light dusting of pecorino or aged ricotta is used to add a touch of richness and depth, reflecting the island’s bold yet balanced approach to flavour.

In Sicily, rice was traditionally cooked in a simpler, more rustic way—boiled or baked rather than stirred continuously as in northern Italian risotto. This method reflects the island’s practical, resourceful cooking style, where rice absorbed the flavours of local ingredients without the need for the labor-intensive, creamy texture typical of risotto.

Recipe: RISO CON GLI ANGELI, Rice with angels

Ingredients

400g cockles

400g mussels

3 cups arborio, carnaroli or vialone rice

3 cloves garlic, chopped

½ cup finely cut parsley

¾–1 cup extra virgin olive oil

200g (7oz) prawns, shelled and de-veined, cut into pieces; some left whole

200g (7oz) squid (small with tentacles), cut into slices

100g (3½oz) of one or a mixture of: crabs, lobster, Moreton bay bugs, scallops (optional)

grated pecorino

salt and red chilli flakes to taste

Method

Clean the cockles and mussels (see pages 84 and 87 in my book: Sicilian Seafood Cooking). Steam in a covered frying pan coated with a little oil. Once opened, shell them, but reserve some mussels in their shells. Cut up the flesh and save the juice.

While you are preparing the seafood, cook the rice (add the rice to plenty of rapidly boiling, salted water). Drain and place in serving bowl.

In a wide pan, sauté the garlic and parsley in extra virgin olive oil. Add prawns, squid (and any other seafood) and season. Stir for a few minutes, then add the clam juice. Toss for a few minutes without reducing the liquid.

Add mussels and cockles (shelled and unshelled) and heat through.

Mix the seafood with the rice. Arrange some mussels in their shells on top to look like angels with open wings. Serve with grated cheese.

MUSSELS IN TRIESTE and Mussel recipes

SPAGHETTINI E COZZE; Spaghettini with mussels

ZUPPA DI COZZE SGUSCIATE: A thick soup made with Mussel Meat

SPAGHETTI WITH CRAYFISH OR CRAB (Spaghetti con Aragosta o Granco)

 

FISH STUDDED WITH FLAVOURS

Fish cutlets (or portions) studded with flavours (herbs and spices) is something that I make quite often and is a versatile dish that keeps on evolving. I began this recipe by inserting Sicilian flavours – cinnamon, cloves, lemon peel, garlic, fennel, oregano, parsley, and degalzing the fish with dry Marsala and then the recipe evolved from there.

The beauty of this dish is its adaptability—I can’t recall ever making it the same way twice! Each time I prepare it, I change the flavours I use to insert into the fish and it becomes a new taste sensation each time. Whether it’s herbs, different spices, or different types of liquids to deglaze, the possibilities are endless.

For instance, I love using herbs, which vary depending on the season. And when it comes to deglazing the pan, I  use anything from a splash of wine (or other alcohol), to stock . And the result is a dish that feels new with every iteration.

There is a recipe for this style of cooking in my book Sicilian Seafood Cooking –  Tunnu Ammuttunatu (Sicilian) or Pesce Staccato e con Marsala (Italian) and in English, it translates to Tuna Studded with Flavours and Braised in Marsala.

Over the years, I’ve made subtle adjustments to the recipe, fine-tuning it to match my evolving tastes, the people I am feeding and the ingredients available.

I also have another related recipe in this blog where I used Trevally as the fish: it is a perfect example of how adaptable this method can be.

Recently, I experimented with mackerel, adding capers to deglaze the pan (some of my guests do not drink alcohol), but the capers added an extra layer of briny taste. Pretty good and different again.

Here’s the original recipe from my book, Sicilian Seafood Cooking:

Tunnu ammuttunatu
Pesce steccato e con marsala
Fish, studded with flavours and braised in marsala

I like to use a whole fillet of fish, which I estimate will feed no more than
four people when cut into portions. For more people, I buy two fillets.

I like to serve this very pink in the centre, but it will not suffer if it is cooked longer, as done in Sicily. Long whole fillets will not cook evenly and can be adventageous as it provides well cooked and rare tuna eaters a choice.

Individual portions of large fish or tuna can also be studded and cooked in this manner.

Stud the flesh with one or more flavours – garlic (halved), cloves, a
cinnamon stick (broken into small pieces) – and a herb, (mint, rosemary
or oregano).

Below, various cuts of tuna in an open Sicilian market in Acireale, north of Catania.

Ingredients

1-1.2kg tuna fillet
1 cup dry marsala

flavourings (see intro)
1/2 to1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
3 fresh bay leaves
mint leaves for serving

Processes

Use a knife with a long thin blade and make a number of deep, regularly
spaced slits in the fillet. Insert flavourings (see above) into each slit. When
you cut the fillet into portions, each portion should have four slits.

Heat oil in a pan and seal the fish on all sides. Add marsala and bay
leaves and reduce slightly, cover and braise over low heat. Add more
marsala (or water) if the dish is drying out.

A fillet of four portions cooks in about 15–20 minutes. To test, insert a metal skewer into the centre – if it is done the skewer will be just warm to the touch. If it feels cool, cook
for a little longer.

Place the fish on a large platter, pour over the sauce and scatter with mint.

And if you’re interested in exploring the Trevally version, here’s the link to the full recipe on my blog:

FISH STUDDED WITH SICILIAN FLAVOURS

BAKED FISH WITH POTATOES, VINEGAR and ANCHOVIES

It is the season to begin thinking about fish and how to cook it to make it special.

Baked Fish With Potatoes, Vinegar And Anchovies Sicilian – Pisci o furno chi patati  is a recipe from my book Sicilian Seafood Cooking (now out of print), and it is so simple to cook that I could do it with my eyes closed.

The fish is a locally caught sustainable Snapper. You can see that I make slits in the fish’s sides and in the slits I insert a couple of anchovies. If you don’t like anchovies use fresh herbs; good for this fish are wild fennel, thyme, rosemary or tarragon.

I made the marinade and marinaded the fish in your baking tray for an hour before cooking.

In the marinade you can see that I have used consists of chopped parsley, quite a bit of onion and grated lemon peel. The liquid is: extra virgin olive oil, some wine vinegar and some lemon juice. Add a bit of salt and pepper also. I have included some quantities in the recipe below, but really, the fun of cooking is also experimenting.

Mix up the marinade and let the fish steep in it for about an hour. Turn it over a few times before you bake it. You can bake potatoes with it if you wish and the potatoes take on that lemon flavour that often Greek baked potatoes have when baked with lemon (usually cooked with chicken). The Greeks did settle in Sicily after all!

I usually part-cook my potatoes and put them in to bake with the fish about 15mins before I think the fish is ready. Raw slices of potatoes are used in the recipe and these will require longer cooking time, but do whatever you think is more practical for you.

 

PESCE INFORNATO CON PATATE/ Sicilian – Pisci o furno chi patati
Baked fish with potatoes (and vinegar and anchovies)
Ingredients
1–1.5kg (2lb 4oz–3lb 5oz) whole fish
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 onions, finely chopped a small bunch parsley, finely chopped
250g (9oz) potatoes, thinly sliced or par-boiled potatoes in chunks
3–6 anchovies, finely chopped (see above)
juice of 2 lemons, plus grated zest of 1 lemon
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Suitable fish
Any whole fish or large, thick fillets of medium to firm fish, preferably with the skin on. The fish is cooked whole, filleted and portioned at the table.
Method
If using whole fish or fillets with skin, make a series of slashes in the skin. Mix
the oil with the vinegar, onions and parsley. Add seasoning and marinate the
fish for about an hour, turning frequently.
Place the fish in an ovenproof dish, spoon half of the marinade over it and bake for 10 minutes in a 200°C (400°F) oven. Arrange the sliced potatoes around the fish. Sprinkle the potatoes and the fish with more marinade, the anchovies, lemon juice and grated zest. Bake for another 20–35 minutes, depending on the type of fish. Serve hot.
To see if the fish is cooked to your liking, you can test  the fish with a fork held at an angle. Insert it at the thickest point of the fish and twist the fork. it should flake easily.
Variation
Place rosemary and bay leaves underneath the fish in the baking pan.
See:
There is a photo in this post where I used red onion and it can look quite spectacular.

PESCE SALATO (Salted Fish in Sicily)and BOTTARGA revisited

Richard Cornish’s first article this year in his Brain Food column is on Bottarga (The Age, January 25 issue, 2022).

What a great start!

He says that we love bottarga because it has the power to enrich and enhance dishes, much the same way as Parmesan cheese  improves pasta and jamon makes everything more delicious.  I always think of anchovies and how widely they are used not just in Sicilian cooking but in Italian cooking  generally an how much they enrich the taste of many dishes.

The bottarga that Richard is writing about is Bottarga di Muggine:  ‘the salted, processed and sun-dried mullet roe that is pale orange to yellow in colour.”

Having roots in Sicily, I am more accustomed with Bottarga di Tonno, made from tuna. In comparison to the mullet roe,  bottarga  from tuna can be darker in colour and more pungent in taste.

I bought this  lump of bottarga (in the photo below) from Enoteca Sileno in Melbourne. Mullet bottarga is easier to find.

In Sicily bottarga has been used for millennia and is only one of many parts of the tuna that is salted.

Many years ago, when bottarga would have been next to impossible to purchase in Australia, I purchased many packets of plastic wrapped bottarga  and various salted parts or the tuna from a vendor in the Market in Syracuse who specialised in salted and dried fish. I brought them back to Australia in my suitcase. I declared them, but because they were sealed securely  I was cleared through customs.

In my book Sicilian Seafood Cooking, I begin the section of the book PESCE SALATO (Salted Fish) by saying:

Salted fish has been greatly valued and an important industry in Sicily. During medieval times the standard Lenten diet was based on pulses and dried salted fish. Still popular in Sicily, salted fish were popular with the ancient Romans. Anchovies, which still flavour many dishes, probably replaced the gurum used widely by ancient Romans.

Gurum was made by crushing and fermenting fish innards. It was very popular during Roman times, an import from the Greeks. It was a seasoning preferred to salt and added to other ingredients like vinegar, wine, oil and pepper to make a condiment used for meat, fish and vegetables – much like the fish sauce used in some Asian cuisines.

Two early cookery books, The Art of Cooking: The First Modern Cookery Book by Martino of Como and On Right Pleasure and Good Health by Platina, praise the taste and quality of salted tuna (particularly the middle section of tuna called tarantellum or terantello). Salted tuna (sometimes called mosciam in Sicily) was introduced by the Arabs (who called it muscamma) in about the 10th century. It has firm, deep red-brown flesh that needs only paper-thin slicing and is mainly eaten softened in oil with a sprinkling of lemon juice.

Salted tuna is also produced in southern Spain; they refer to it as air-dried tuna or sun-dried tuna and Mojama tuna.

Bottarga (called buttarica or buttarga in Sicilian) are the eggs in the ovary sacs of female tuna. These are pressed into a solid mass, salted and processed. The name bottarga is thought to have evolved from the Arabic buarikh or butarah – raw fish eggs, once made made by dipping the sac in beeswax and leaving it to dry. Making bottarga is a much more complicated process now and is only produced in Favignana. It is grated to flavour dishes, or sliced finely and eaten as an antipasto.

I have eaten bottarga mainly grated over pasta dishes and eggplant caponata, but in Syracuse I enjoyed baked eggplant stuffed with seafood and topped with grated bottarga.

Richard Cornish says :

‘Grated bottarga is sensational over buttered pasta. You need nothing other than a glass of wine to complete the dish. Try it grated over spaghetti with tomatoes and a little chilli, or on hot flatbread drizzled with oil as an aperitivo. Make a delicious salad of finely sliced fennel and radicchio topped with bottarga. Grate bottarga into aioli to make a dressing for a Caesar salad. Make softly scrambled eggs, grate over 50g of bottarga and enjoy on hot buttered sourdough’.

Sounds good and I am looking forward to trying some of these.

I have a post on my blog  for  the recipe:

PASTA CON BOTTARGA ( Pasta with Grated Bottarga)

PASTA ALLA NORMA and a variation (Pasta with tomato salsa and fried eggplants; and currants, anchovies and bottarga) …photo, as eaten on the coast near Agrigento.

ARTICHOKES and how we love them – CAPONATA DI CARCIOFI

‘Artichokes’ is the topic of Richard Cornish’s regular column. (September 21, Brain Food in The Age). His commentary has certainly provided me with an excess  amount of food for thought – artichokes are one of my very favourite vegetables and I have written many recipes for artichokes on my blog.

Artichokes in Acireale Sicily

I have included some recipes in this post and more can be found on my blog.

In Italian artichokes are called carciofi, in Sicilian they are cacocciuli.

As Richard says, artichokes are thought to have originated from Sicily, and therefore Sicilians have had plenty of time to appreciate their versatility and have come up with some excellent recipes for artichokes cooked in many interesting ways. 

This is not to say that the other regions of Italy don’t have their own local recipes for artichokes, but Sicilians seem to have the lot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Versitility:

Artichokes in Italy are eaten as appetizers, contorni (sides), first and second courses, and stand-alone dishes.

Artichokes can be stuffed with a wide variety of fillings, fried whole or sliced, and crumbed before being fried, sautéed, boiled, baked, braised and stewed, roasted in ashes, used in frittate (plural of frittata), pasta and risotti (plural of risotto).

When they are young, they are sliced thinly and eaten raw in salads. They are canned commercially and, at the end of plant’s life, the last of the artichokes that will never mature, but will stay small and underdeveloped, are conserved, mostly in olive oil. When they are old, they are stripped of all the leaves and the bases are eaten.

You may be familiar with Cynar, one of the many Italian bitter, alcoholic drinks (of the Amaro variety) and made predominantly with artichokes. Below is some information.

Recipes: 

CARCIOFINI SOTT’ OLIO (Preserved artichokes in oil) 

It is spring in Australia now and the very best time to celebrate artichokes when they can be combined with other spring produce such as broad beans, peas, asparagus and potatoes.

A couple of recipes in my blog make a special feature of spring flavours:

A QUICK PASTA DISH for Spring: asparagus, artichokes, peas

CARCIOFI IMBOTTITI (Stuffed artichokes)

ASPARAGUS and ARTICHOKES PASTA ALLA FAVORITA (Pasta with artichokes, broad beans, peas alla favorita)

FRITTEDDA (A sauté of spring vegetables)

Different varieties of artichokes are also available in autumn, but somehow pairing them with spring seasonal produce, deserves extra applause.

CARCIOFI (Artichokes and how to clean them and prepare them for cooking) 

Cynarin

In his Brain Food column about artichokes Richard says that artichokes contain a compound called cynarin which inhibits your tongue’s ability to detect sweetness. You don’t notice it until you have a bite or a drink of something else: the cynarin gets washed off the tongue, and suddenly, your brain tells you that what you have in your mouth is sweet, even when it is not!

Hence Cynar, one of the many Italian bitter alcoholic drinks (of the amaro variety) and made predominantly with artichokes. Cynar is classed as a digestive and it is said to have stomach-soothing qualities and cleansing and restorative properties for the liver. It can be drunk as an apéritif or after dinner drink.

BITTER GREENS and AMARI (Aperitivi and Digestivi)

Richard mentions how Richard Purdue, executive chef at Margaret in Sydney’s Double Bay, beams when the word artichoke is mentioned. ‘‘One of my favourite dishes is one I picked up in Sicily, where the artichokes are cooked in a kind of caponata – tomatoes, celery, pine nuts, currants, red wine and sugar.’’ So to finish off here is a recipe adapted from my book, Sicilian Seafood Cooking for a caponata made with artichokes.

In recipe in my book, Sicilian Seafood Cooking, I suggest using 9 -10 artichokes and it is intended for 6 -8 people.

Caponata di Carciofi (Artichoke Caponata) can only be made with young artichokes. It is also worth noting that you will need to remove the outer leaves and only use the tender centre, therefore reducing the amount of artichokes significantly.

CAPUNATA DI CARCIOFFULI – Caponata Di Carciofi  (Artichoke caponata)

Sauté each of the vegetable ingredients separately as is the traditional method of making caponata (as in a well-made, French dish Ratatouille). Frying the vegetables together does save time, but the colours and the flavours will not be as distinct. However, I have provided this method as a variation (see bottom of this recipe).

Remove the outer, tougher leaves of the artichokes by bending them back and snapping them off the base until you come to the softer, paler leaves.

  • Prepare artichokes for sautéing. The artichokes need to be sliced thinly and vertically into bite size pieces. Keep them in acidulated water as you work. The cleaned stalk is one of my favourite parts of the artichoke and will add flavour to the caponata. Trim the stalk with a small sharp knife to pull away the tough, stringy outer skin (just like the strings of celery) and leave the stem attached to the artichoke. This will expose the light-coloured, centre portion, which is very flavourful and tender and much appreciated by Italians.
  • Drain the artichokes from the acidulated water and squeeze dry (I use a clean tea towel).
  • Select a large, shallow, saucepan to sauté the artichokes. They should not be crowded and if you do not have a large enough pan, sauté them in batches – you want to create as little liquid as possible.
  • Place some of the extra virgin olive oil in the pan and sauté the artichokes on low heat until they are tender. This may take up to 10 minutes or more depending on the freshness and age of the artichokes (add a little water or white wine if the ingredients are drying out).
  • Remove the artichokes and set aside.
  • Add a little more, extra virgin olive oil to the pan (and/or you may be able to drain some from the sautéed artichokes) and sauté the other vegetables in the same pan, separately. Proceed as follows:
  • Sauté the onion until it begins to colour, remove from the pan and add to the artichokes.
  • Add a little more extra virgin olive oil and sauté the celery.
  • Add the olives, capers, salt and tomatoes to the celery. Simmer gently for about 5-7 minutes. Add a little water if needed (this mixture should have the consistency of a thick sauce.)
  • Remove the mixture from the pan and add it to the sautéed artichokes and onions.
  • To make the agro dolce (sweet sour) sauce:
  • Add the sugar to the pan and caramelise the sugar by stirring it until it melts and begins to turn a honey colour.
  • Add the vinegar and swirl it around to collect the flavours of the sautéed vegetables and evaporate it (2-3 minutes).
  • Place all of the sautéed vegetables and artichokes into the pan with the agro dolce sauce and gently toss the ingredients, as you would do a salad.
  • Simmer on very gentle heat to amalgamate the flavours for about 3-5 minutes.
  • Place caponata into a sealed container or jar and store in the fridge. Leave it to stand at least a day but preferably longer.

Now, for the easier cheat’s version:

  • To make caponata, where the ingredients are not fried separately, proceed as follows:
  • Prepare and sauté the artichokes as in the proceeding recipe.
  • Add a little more extra virgin olive oil and heat it. Add the onion and the celery and sauté until they begin to colour.
  • Add the olives, capers, sugar, salt, vinegar and tomatoes. Cover and simmer gently until tender (5-10 minutes or more depending on the freshness and age of the artichokes).

PASTA CON LE SARDE, an iconic Sicilian recipe from Palermo. Cooked at Slow Food Festival Melbourne

Slow Fish Festival: Save Our Seafood

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To those of you who attended the successful event at Spotswood – Kingsville, Slow Fish Festival: Save Our Seafood.

As promised, here is an update of the recipe Pasta con le Sarde I cooked at this event.

There are already two posts about this recipe:

PASTA CON LE SARDE (Pasta with sardines, from Palermo, made with fennel, pine nuts and currants)

PASTA CON SARDE – the baked version, Palermo, Sicily

Here are some useful photographs to compliment the recipes:

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Wild fennel plant.

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Wild fennel shoots.

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Packing wild fennel for the winter season – used to flavour the pasta water.

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Extra flavour with sachet of fennel seeds. It can be removed when you also remove the boiled wild fennel.

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Wild fennel sold in bunches at Catania Market.

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You will need a plate to serve it. This is an Alessi Plate ( not THE Alessi, the Sicilian Alessi) They use old stencils, colours and images from the past to decorate their plates.

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Recipe in Sicilian Seafood Cooking, Tim White from Books For Cooks (Melbourne) may have a couple of this book left for sale.

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Timballo, made with left over Pasta con Sarde

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Reference was made to  Il Gattopardo – The Leopard, by Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampadusa. Film made by Visconti, an historical epic, based on Lampedusa’s novel.

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TUNNU `A STIMPIRATA – TONNO ALLA STEMPERATA (Tuna with onions, vinegar, capers and green olives)

Albacore tuna is sustainable, cheap in price and much under rated in Australia. It is not sashimi grade so the Asian export market does not want it and therefore in Australia we also tend to undervalue it. It is denser in texture but still excellent for cooking (lightly or cooked for longer).  As in Australia, Blue fin tuna is the preferred tuna in Sicily; if it is sustainable depends on how and where it is caught – it should be wild caught and aquaculture is not an option.

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Unfortunately I rarely find albacore tuna where I live in Melbourne and if I do, I always grab it when I can and cook it as I would cook blue fin tuna.

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I like tuna seared and left rare centrally but my Sicilian relatives eat tuna very well done and this is also how it is presented in the traditional home-style restaurants in Sicily.

In Sicily there are numerous ways tuna but Tonno alla stemperata is one of the favourites  in the south eastern part of Sicily. It was first cooked for me by one of my cousins, Rosetta, who lives in Ragusa. She and her husband have a holiday house on the beach at Marina di Ragusa, and she usually buys most of her fish from the fishermen on the beach.

Although Rosetta prefers to use tuna in this recipe, any firm-fleshed fish, thickly sliced, is suitable. She prefers to cut the tuna into large cubes – this allows greater penetration of the flavours in the sauce and of course, it will cook to a greater degree and more quickly.

Rosetta cooked the fish in the morning and we ate it for lunch, at room temperature…in Australia you may find this unusual but eating it at room temperature and some time after it has been cooked allows the flavours time to develop.

A version of this recipe is also in my first book: Sicilian Seafood Cooking.

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I have used Albacore tuna, trevally, mackerel or flathead (better choice category) successfully in this recipe.

tuna or firm-fleshed fish, 4 slices
sliced white onions, 2
capers, ½ cup, salted variety, soaked and washed
white wine vinegar, about 2 tablespoons or for a milder taste use 1 tablespoon of white wine and one of vinegar
extra virgin olive oil, about 2 tablespoons
salt, black pepper or red chilli flakes (as preferred by the relatives in Ragusa),
celery heart, 2 or 3 of the pale green stalks and young leaves, chopped finely
green olives, ½ cup, pitted, chopped
bay leaves, 4

Soften the onion and celery in about half of the extra virgin oil, and cook until the onion is golden, about 5 minutes, stirring frequently.

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Add the fish, olives, capers, seasoning and bay leaves and sear the fish. The pieces of fish only need to be turned once.

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Add the vinegar and allow the vinegar to evaporate and flavour the dish.

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Remove the fish from the pan if you think that it will overcook and continue to evaporate.

Optional: Decorate (and flavour) with mint just before serving.

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You can tell I am in South Australia by some of the photos of the fabulous varieties of fish I am able to purchase in Adelaide when I visit.

10 MUST-TRY DISHES WHEN YOU ARE IN SICILY

I’m often asked about the must-try Sicilian dishes when visiting Sicily—and it’s a question I love answering. Sicily’s cuisine is deeply rooted in its rich history, geography, and vibrant culture. It’s no surprise that food is a key reason people return to the island again and again.

If you’re familiar with the Great British Chefs website (a leading source for professional chef recipes in the UK), you may also know their sister site, Great Italian Chefs. This site celebrates the traditions, creativity, and passion behind Italy’s most iconic culinary offerings.

As they rightly point out:

“The Italians themselves are fiercely passionate about their culinary heritage, and with good reason – a large number of the world’s best dishes come from the cities, fields and shores of this deeply cultural, historic country.”

AND

Today, Sicily is one of Italy’s most popular tourist destinations, and it’s the food that keeps people coming back year after year.

On 29 September 2017, Great Italian Chefs published an article titled “10 Must-Try Dishes When You’re in Sicily.” In fact, there are 11 dishes once you include the one that’s assumed you already know: arancini.

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The Sicilian specialties are:

  • Fritella
  • Caponata
  • Raw red prawns
  • Busiate al pesto trapanese
  • Pasta con le sarde
  • Pasta alla norma
  • Cous cous di pesce
  • Fritto misto
  • Involtini di pesce spada
  • Cannoli

AND

  • Arancini

Let’s explore these iconic Sicilian specialties—most of which you’ll find recipes for right here on my blog. I’ve included links, photos, and some notes from my cookbook Sicilian Seafood Cooking, with food styling by Fiona Rigg and photography by Graeme Gillies.

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Although I have no recipes on my blog for Fritto misto, Raw red prawns and Involtini di pesce spada, I have explained each of these these Sicilian specialties and where appropriate I  have links to similar recipes on my blog.

Fritella (Frittedda)

This spring vegetable medley is made with artichokes, broad beans, and peas. It’s lightly cooked and often dressed with olive oil, fresh herbs, and sometimes a splash of vinegar. In Sicilian dialect, it’s called Frittedda.

Recipe: Frittedda

Featured in: Jewels of Sicily

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Caponata

Caponata is one of Sicily’s most well-known dishes. It’s a sweet and sour eggplant stew made with vinegar, capers, olives, and sometimes pine nuts or even chocolate, depending on the region.

There are several regional variations:

  • Palermo: Eggplant-focused, sweet and tangy
  • Catania: More emphasis on tomato and celery
  • Other versions: Potato-based or with unique local additions

SICILIAN CAPONATA DI MELANZANE as made in Palermo (Eggplant caponata and Eggplant caponata with chocolate)

CAPONATA SICILIANA (CATANESE – Caponata as made in Catania

CAPONATA of Potatoes (General information and recipe for Caponata di patate)

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Raw Red Prawns

Known as Gambero Rosso (Aristaeomorpha foliacea), these blood-red prawns are a delicacy in Sicily. When fresh, they are served raw with just a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and lemon juice—simple, elegant, and delicious.

Often, the lemon juice slightly “cooks” the prawns in a style similar to ceviche.

All very fresh seafood can be eaten raw and is loved by Sicilians, usually served with extra virgin olive oil and lemon juice. Most times the seafood is marinaded in these even if it is for a short time – the lemon juice “cooks” the fish.

SARDINE, CRUDE E CONDITE (Sardines – raw and marinaded)

PESCE CRUDO, raw fish dishes in Sicily

GREAT BRITISH CHEFS, GREAT ITALIAN CHEFS, Feature articles by Marisa Raniolo Wilkins

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Busiate al Pesto Trapanese (from Tapani in Western Sicily)

This dish features Busiate, a corkscrew-shaped pasta traditionally hand-rolled around thin rods. It’s served with Pesto Trapanese, a Sicilian version of pesto made from tomatoes, almonds, garlic, and basil. In some regions, it’s also called Matarocco.

Pesto trapanese is also called Matarocco. Busiate is the type of pasta traditionally made by coiling a strip of pasta cut diagonally around a thin rod (like a knitting needle).

MATARROCCU, a Sicilian pesto

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Pasta con le Sarde

One of the island’s most iconic pasta dishes, Pasta con le Sarde is made with wild fennel, sardines, pine nuts, raisins, and saffron. It embodies Sicily’s Arabic and Mediterranean influences.

Two versions to try:

  • Classic stovetop version
  • Baked version, often topped with breadcrumbs

PASTA CON LE SARDE (Pasta with sardines, from Palermo, made with fennel, pine nuts and currants)

PASTA CON SARDE – the baked version, Palermo, Sicily

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Pasta alla Norma

A Catania favorite, this pasta dish is made with fried eggplant, rich tomato sauce, basil, and grated ricotta salata. It’s hearty and comforting—a must-try for vegetarians and meat-lovers alike.

PASTA ALLA NORMA (Pasta with tomatoes, and eggplants)

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Cous Cous di Pesce

This North African-influenced dish is popular in Western Sicily, particularly in Trapani. It’s made with semolina couscous steamed and served with a spiced fish broth.

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⚠️ Note: Unfortunately, the original recipe for Cous Cous di Pesce has disappeared from my blog after a platform migration. I plan to repost it soon.

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Great Italian Chefs link to 10 must-try dishes when you’re in Sicily (29 September 2017).

NETTLES (Ortiche), Culinary uses and gnocchi

You may have noticed that use of nettles in culinary dishes are gaining popularity. Some Melbourne restaurants have included nettles and there were bunches for sale at the Queen Victoria Market a couple of weeks ago (Il Fruttivendolo – Gus and Carmel’s stall). Gus and Carmel have not been able to procure any nettles for the last couple of weeks so maybe demand by restaurants has increased.

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Nettles (ortiche in Italian) are part of the assortment of wild greens –  considered unwanted weeds by many and appreciated edible plants by others. Wild greens in Italian are referred to as piante selvatiche (wild plants) or a term that I find very amusing: erbe spontanee (spontaneous herbs).

Nettles are high in nutrients such iron, magnesium and nitrogen and can be eaten in many recipes – I ate them not so very long ago incorporated in the gnocchi dough in a trattoria in Cividale del Fruili, a lovely little town in the Province of Udine, part of the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region of northern Italy.

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Once back in Melbourne a couple of weeks ago I enjoyed them on several occasions as a sauce for gnocchi at Osteria Ilaria and at Tipo 00 nettles have been part of a risotto since it opened– both excellent eateries are owned by the same team.

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Matt Wilkinson, of Brunswick’s Pope Joan has also been a fan of nettles for a long time.

Nettles are easily found anywhere where weeds can grow. If you have ever touched nettles you would know that they sting, cause redness and itching so use rubber gloves when you harvest them. Nettles need to be cooked before eating and because they reduce significantly when cooked, you will need a large amount of them.

Remove the stems and choose the best leaves – the tender young leaves from the tips are best; wash and drain them as you do with any other green vegetable. Blanch a few handfuls of the leaves in a pot of boiling water for minute or so – this softens them and removes the sting and you will end up with a dark green soft mass which you may choose to puree even further to gain a smooth, soft paste. Drain and use them – once cooled they can be included in a gnocchi or pasta dough or in a sauce to dress the pasta or gnocchi.  Incorporate them as part a soup – great with cannellini or chickpeas. Mix them with eggs and a little grated cheese to make a frittata. For a risotto either use the already softened nettles or sauté the leaves with whatever ingredients you are using for the risotto and then add the rice and broth.

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On my recent travels to Northern Italy I ate gnocchi with nettles in a trattoria in Cividale dei Fruili. The cheese used to top the gnocchi is smoked ricotta.

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You will find many recipes for making potato gnocchi and I generally use about 500 grams of boiled potatoes, 150 grams of softened/ blanched cold nettles, 1 egg, 150 grams of flour.

You could also try gnocchi made with bread.

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Bread gnocchi

Equal amounts of nettles and bread, i.e.
300 g of nettles, blanched and drained
300 g of good quality white bread (crusts removed and preferably 1-2 days old)
milk to soften the bread
1 large egg
seasoning – salt, pepper, grated nutmeg
about 2 – 4 tablespoons plain flour to bind the mixture (try to use as little as possible) and
grated parmesan can also replace some of the quantities of the flour

N.B. Spinach instead of nettles can be used in the recipe.

Dampen the bread with some milk and squeeze any moisture from out before using. Mix the cooled nettles with the bread in a large mixing bowl. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, add the egg and knead well. Add the flour gradually and make small balls with the dough. Flatten them slightly with a fork. Boil in salted water until they float to the top.

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A simple sauce can be some lightly browned melted butter with sage leaves and a good sprinkling of parmesan cheese.

Walnuts, garlic, seasoning, olive oil and butter can be blended till smooth and will make a great dressing. Or try the classic Genovese walnut pesto made with marjoram. See: PESTO DI NOCI (Walnut pesto/ sauce for pasta)

In my book, Sicilian Seafood Cooking I have written about wild greens in Sicily.

Posts about Sicilian wild greens on my blog are:

EDIBLE WEEDS: Orecchiette e Broccoletti Selvatici (and cime di rape)

SICILIAN EDIBLE WEEDS and Greek VLITA

Use the search button to find recipes for other foraged vegetables, i.e. Wild Fennel, Chicory, Wild Asparagus, Malabar spinach, Purslane, Mushrooms.

 

 

RICCI DI MARE – Sea Urchins

What are they?

Sea urchins and they are now available (July) at the Queen Victoria Market at George The Fish Monger.

They are called ricci in Italy (di mare means from the sea) and are considered a culinary delicacy – the two most common ways to eat them are very fresh and raw with a squeeze of lemon juice (like oysters) or in a dressing for pasta. The roe (the edible part) is never cooked directly – it is much too delicate in flavor and consistency. In the pasta dish it is the hot, cooked pasta that warms (and ‘cooks’) the roe – flip and toss the roe over and over until all of the ingredients of the pasta sauce are evenly distributed.

I have written a previous post about sea urchins and a recipe for preparing spaghetti SPAGHETTI CHI RICCI – SPAGHETTI CON RICCI DI MARE (Spaghetti with sea urchins). This recipe is also in my book Sicilian Seafood Cooking.