INTERVIEW ON ABC RADIO NATIONAL BREAKFAST WITH FRAN KELLY discussing a Sicilian seafood feast for an Australian Christmas
I first published this post on 7/12/2011
This morning I had the privilege of joining Fran Kelly on ABC Radio National’s Breakfast program to talk about my book, Sicilian Seafood Cooking, and the rich traditions of Sicilian Christmas feasts.
We discussed how Sicilians celebrate with seafood but mainly this is on Christmas Eve – elegant, vibrant dishes that capture the essence of the Mediterranean and how Australians might embrace these flavours as a delicious, sustainable alternative to the traditional turkey, chicken, or ham.
When I plan a Christmas menu, I think beyond habit. I consider who I’m feeding, the weather, how much I want to cook, and what looks fresh at the market. I ask myself: what will be the showpiece of this meal? Will it be an antipasto that sets the tone, a luscious pasta, or a stunning main course — or perhaps a series of small, memorable plates that celebrate the diversity of the sea?
I
In Sicilian Seafood Cooking, many traditional recipes call for swordfish and tuna – prized in Sicily but now often overfished. I’ve honoured these dishes by keeping their names and heritage, but I also offer sustainable alternatives, showing that flavour and responsibility can, and should, coexist beautifully on our plates.
Sustainability in seafood isn’t just a trend — it’s an urgent responsibility. The seas that have nourished generations are under increasing pressure, and every choice we make as cooks and consumers matters. In Sicily, the sea is part of daily life; fishermen have long understood the rhythms of the tides and the importance of taking only what the ocean can give. I wanted that same respect to guide my book — to celebrate Sicilian culinary traditions while adapting them for a modern world that demands awareness and care.
By choosing locally sourced, seasonal seafood, we not only protect marine ecosystems but also discover an extraordinary range of flavours and textures. Mackerel, sardines, squid, and mussels can all take centre stage, offering richness and depth equal to that of larger, threatened species. Cooking sustainably is not about compromise — it’s about creativity, connection, and honouring the true spirit of Mediterranean food culture.
Sicilians begin their festive meals simply — perhaps with a plate of glossy olives, a handful of roasted nuts, or a few slivers of marinated seafood. These modest starters are intentional; they tease the palate without spoiling the appetite for what’s to come. Inspired by this tradition, I’ve chosen a light fish entrée to open the meal.
Pasta, of course, is indispensable on a Sicilian table. It’s a celebration in itself, and so I’ve offered several alternatives for the first course — each one reflecting the flavours of the sea and the season. For those who prefer something different, I’ve also included a rice dish. In Sicily, rice was once cooked quite plainly, never stirred continually like a northern risotto, yet always full of character and soul.
By the time you reach the second course, a pause may be welcome — but for those ready to continue, I’ve included two main dishes that bring the feast to a satisfying close. Each one carries the essence of Sicilian cooking: generosity, simplicity, and respect for the ingredients.
Vegetables are not part of this particular menu, but they are absolutely central to Sicilian cuisine. In Sicilian Seafood Cooking, I’ve included many vibrant vegetable recipes — dishes that showcase the island’s love of fresh, seasonal produce. And, of course, the book is filled with beautiful photography — not only of the food but also of Sicily itself. As Fran mentioned during our interview, the images capture the soul of the island: its light, its colours, and its deep connection to the sea.
The landscape photographs were taken by my partner during our journeys around Sicily — from bustling fish markets to quiet coastal villages. The food photography was by Graeme Gillies, with styling by Fiona Rigg, whose eye for texture and authenticity brought each dish to life. Every recipe in the book was cooked by me, in just five days, in my small kitchen at home. Meanwhile, the photographer and stylist transformed my dining room into a studio. It was intense, creative, and deeply satisfying .
Starter / Antipasto
TONNO CUNZATO
Raw Marinaded Tuna
The fish needs to be fresh and of excellent quality and sliced thinly. Keep it in the fridge while it is in the marinade. The recipes for marinating tuna suggest using a mixture of 7 parts vinegar to 3 parts lemon juice. I prefer to use just lemon juice or 9 parts lemon juice to 1 part vinegar. You may wish to experiment.
This dish is usually served as an antipasto.
Suitable fish:
The recipe is intended for bluefin tuna which is not sustainable unless it is line caught. Any skinless fillet cut thinly can be marinated the same way.
Ingredients: 500g tuna or other thinly cut, skinless fish Juice of 4 lemons ¼ – ½ cup white wine vinegar Dried oregano to taste 2 spring onions (scallions) finely chopped 2-3 stalks celery (pale green stalks and leaves from heart) finely chopped ½ cup capers ¼ cup finely cut parsley ¾ cup extra virgin olive oil Salt & freshly ground pepper Method: Marinate the fish in the lemon juice and vinegar, making sure that the fish is covered with the marinade. Add oregano and place in the fridge for 30 minutes. For the dressing, mix together the spring onions, celery, capers, parsley, olive oil and seasoning. When ready to serve, remove the fish from the marinade and pour the dressing on top.First Course
RAVIOLI DI RICOTTA CU NIURU DI SICCI
Ricotta Ravioli With Black Ink Sauce
Black ink sauce:
600g squid or cuttlefish plus 2-3 ink sacs
1 medium onion &/or 2 cloves garlic
½ cup olive oil
100g ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped
1 large tblsp tomato paste
1 cup finely cut parsley
1 cup white wine
Salt
Chilli flakes or freshly ground pepper
Clean the squid or cuttlefish carefully and extract the ink sac. Cut into 1cm rings and set aside. The tentacles can also be used.
For the sauce, sauté the onion and garlic in the oil, add the tomatoes and tomato paste, parsley, white wine and sale. Bring to the boil and reduce until the salsa is thick.
Cook the pasta.
Add the ink and chilli flakes to the sauce and mix well. Add the squid rings and cook over a medium-high heat until the squid is cooked to your liking.
Method:
Drain the ricotta
Place it in the colander lined with cheesecloth and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight.
Mix the ricotta with a little salt and any of the extra flavourings.
Make the ravioli
The most authentic and quickest way to cut the ravioli is by hand. There is no prescribed size- can be round or square or half-moon shaped.
To make individual ravioli, cut pasta into circles or squares. Place heaped teaspoons of stuffing in the centre of each, continuing until all the stuffing is used. For half-moon shapes fold the pasta over the filling. For others lay another circle or square over the top then moisten edges with a little water and press together carefully to seal properly.
Set the finished ravioli on a lightly floured cloth. They can rest in a cool place for up to two hours.
Cooking
Cook the ravioli as you would any pasta. Lower them into water a few at a time and scoop each out when it floats to the surface.
Dress them carefully with the black ink sauce so as not to break them. Serve as is or with a scoop of ricotta or some grate pecorino.
First course
RISO CON GLI ANGELI
Rice with Angels
Method
Clean the cockles and mussels (see pages 84 and 87). Steam in a covered frying pan coated with a little oil. Once opened, shell them, but reserve some mussels in their shells. Cut up the flesh and save the juice.
While you are preparing the seafood, cook the rice (add the rice to plenty of rapidly boiling, salted water). Drain and place in serving bowl.
In a wide pan, sauté the garlic and parsley in extra virgin olive oil. Add prawns, squid (and any other seafood) and season. Stir for a few minutes, then add the clam juice. Toss for a few minutes without reducing the liquid.
Add mussels and cockles (shelled and unshelled) and heat through.
Mix the seafood with the rice. Arrange some mussels in their shells on top to look like angels with open wings. Serve with grated cheese.
First course
SPAGHETTI CON L ’ARAGOSTA
Spaghetti with crayfish
The terms lobster and crayfish are often used interchangeably, but the marine species are lobsters and the freshwater species are crayfish. There are many types of lobsters known by a variety of local names.
Lobsters (aragoste) are popular around Trapani, although they are expensive. When making pasta with aragosta, I often buy spiders (the legs) – they can be quite meaty and very suitable for a pasta dish that requires cooked lobster. When buying lobster, select a heavy specimen with a good strong shell. They molt several times in their life cycle and, if they are pale with a thin shell, they are not likely to have much flesh. As for size, anything less than 1.5 kg (3lb 5oz) is not worth buying – a lobster under that size doesn’t have enough meat, especially from the spiders.
There is no comparison between the taste of a freshly cooked lobster and one purchased already cooked.Although this recipe is especially suited for lobsters, other crustaceans can be used.
This dish requires cooked lobster and it is added last. The other ingredient sare raw and pounded in a mortar and pestle (or pulsed in a food processor). The raw ingredients can also be finely chopped and mixed together. Use fresh ripe tomatoes.
This pasta dish is fantastic for the hot weather and it could be part of a celebratory lunch (such as Christmas in the Southern Hemisphere).
Ingredients Lobster, no less than 50g (1¾oz) of meat per person Juice of 3 lemons, plus grated zest of 1 lemon about ½ cup extra virgin olive oil 2 cloves garlic 600g (1lb 5oz) ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and drained, chopped 1 small bunch of basil ½ cup finely cut parsley ½ cup capers; if salted soaked and thoroughly rinsed 500g (17½oz) spaghetti or spaghettini salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Method Remove the flesh from the lobster, tear or cut into small portions and place it in a bowl with the juice of 1 lemon and some of the oil. Use a mortar and pestle to combine the rest of the ingredients. Begin with the garlic, then add the tomatoes, seasoning, and some more oil. Then stir in the basil, parsley capers and, lastly, the zest of 1 lemon – stir these into the pesto. Add some of the lemon juice, taste the pesto and add more if necessary (you may not need all of the lemon juice). Cook and drain the spaghetti. Arrange in a serving bowl, add the pesto and lobster and mix it gently. I like to add more grated lemon zest on top.Second Course
CALAMARETTI RIPIENI CON MARSALA E MANDORLE
Stuffed calamari with fresh cheese, almonds and nutmeg braised in marsala
Method
Clean the squid: pull off the head and the inside of the squid and discard. Cut
off tentacles and save them for another time.
Mix the remaining ingredients except the oil together; check the seasoning.
Stuff the squid and secure each end with a toothpick.
Sauté each squid in olive oil – when the juice escapes it caramelises – turning once only during cooking. Alternatively, cover with foil and bake in a 200°C (400°F) oven for about 10 minutes. The squid will produce its own juice. To caramelise, remove foil and bake the squid for an extra 10 minutes.
Variation
Add chopped pistachio rather than almonds.
Second course
PESCE INFORNATO CON PATATE ACETO E ACCIUGHE
Baked fish with potatoes, vinegar and anchovies
Suitable fish
Any whole fish or large fillets of medium to firm fish, preferably with the skin
on. The fish is cooked whole and carved like meat at the table.
Method
If using whole fish or fillets with skin, make a series of slashes in the skin. Mix
the oil with the vinegar, onions and parsley. Add seasoning and marinate the
fish for about an hour, turning frequently.
Place the fish in an ovenproof dish, spoon half of the marinade over it and bake for 10 minutes in a 200°C (400°F) oven. Arrange the sliced potatoes around the fish. Sprinkle the potatoes and the fish with more marinade, the anchovies, lemon juice and grated zest. Bake for another 20–35 minutes, depending on the type of fish. Serve hot.
Variation
Place rosemary and bay leaves underneath the fish in the baking pan.
SICILIAN SEAFOOD CHRISTMAS: My interview with Fran Kelly was mainly about my book, SICILIAN SEAFOOD COOKING. She asked me submit some recipes that would be suitable for an Australian Christmas
https://www.abc.net.au/listen/programs/radionational-breakfast/3719180 BAKED FISH WITH POTATOES and ANCHOVIES CALAMARI RIPIENI CON FORMAGGIO FRESCO E MARSALA (Stuffed calamari with fresh cheese and braised in marsala)
