SAUCES for meat, fish and vegetables to brighten up your Christmas

Sauces are one of the easiest ways to expand your Christmas repertoire and brighten up your Christmas without changing the core of your menu. Whether your table is seafood-focused, meat-heavy, vegetarian, or a mix of all three, a thoughtfully chosen sauce can bring freshness, complexity and colour.

Because one of the books I’ve written is Sicilian Seafood Cooking—and because my blog is called All Things Sicilian And More—many readers assume that my Christmas table must be strictly Sicilian. It’s a lovely assumption, but like most Italian traditions, the reality is far more regional, varied, and personal.

Buon Natale, and happy cooking!

What Do Italians Eat at Christmas? It Depends Where You Live

Italy has no single “national” Christmas menu.
Food traditions shift dramatically from region to region, and even from town to town.

When I lived in Trieste (in the north), Christmas Day always began with brodo—a clear, comforting broth that signalled the start of a long, leisurely lunch.

Years later, celebrating Christmas in Sicily, the menu was completely different. First courses would be gnucchiteddi (tiny hand-rolled gnocchi) or delicate ravioli di ricotta scented with cinnamon, sugar, and local cheese.

RAVIOLI DI RICOTTA

GNUCCHITEDDI

My family in Ragusa making gnucchiteddi. It is always a family affair.

QUADRUCCI IN BRODO, Squares of home-made Pasta in Broth

Quadrucci – squares of him made pasta with herbs.

BRODO DI GALLINA (Chicken Broth)

GNOCHETI DE GRIES (as called in Trieste), GNOCCHETTI DI SEMOLINO (Italian), SEMOLINA Small GNOCCHI

Gnochetti di Gris.

Even within Sicily—an island smaller than Tasmania—the diversity is astonishing.
Christmas in Ragusa always meant scacce: layered, folded pastries filled with vegetables, ricotta, sausage, tomato, or combinations of all three. They remain a staple of festival tables.

Scacce.

Would Sicilians in Australia be making scacce for Christmas? Perhaps some from Ragusa will—but most Sicilian-Australian menus are shaped by a mixture of regional traditions, personal favourites, and of course the Australian summer.

SCACCE

What I Cook at Christmas

People often ask what I’ll cook for Christmas Eve or Christmas Day. The honest answer: I rarely know until the last minute.

On Christmas Eve, I usually follow Italian custom and eat fish.
On Christmas Day, I like to cook something special that I haven’t made for a while—perhaps pasta with sea urchin (ricci)bottargasquid inkcrayfish, or crab.

There are many posts on this blog that delve into Christmas dishes from Sicily and other regions of Italy—feel free to explore and adapt them for your own festive table.

But this post is not about planning an entire menu. Instead, it’s about something more universal – Sauces.

Whatever you’re serving this year—seafood salad, roast turkey, grilled vegetables, barbecued meat— a fresh, vibrant sauce can instantly transform a familiar dish into something festive.

Essential Sauces and Dressings for Christmas

Below are some of my favourite sauces—Italian, Sicilian, and beyond—that can brighten any Christmas spread.

Highlight sauces include:

  • Salsa d’Agresto – medieval green grape and nut sauce for roasted meats
  • Salsa Verde – Italian parsley, anchovy and caper sauce for vegetables, fish or cold meats
  • Sicilian Sarsa di Chiappareddi – capers, anchovies and olive oil for grilled fish
  • Bagna Cauda – warm garlic and anchovy dip for mixed vegetables
  • Salmoriglio – Sicilian lemon and oregano dressing ideal for BBQ seafood
  • Homemade Mayonnaise – classic, saffron or tuna versions for cold dishes
  • Romesco Sauce – roasted peppers and almonds for fish and vegetables
  • Salsa Saracina – sweet-and-savoury Sicilian sauce with olives, pine nuts and saffron
  • Hot Mint Sauce – mint, cumin and vinegar for lamb or goat

Use these sauces to lift any Christmas meal—seafood salad, roast turkey, summer vegetables or a simple backyard BBQ. A fresh sauce can transform your festive table.

Salsa d’Agresto (Green Grape Sauce)

A medieval sauce that predates the widespread use of lemons. Traditionally, it relies on the tart juice of unripe grapes (agresto).

It dates pre-Renaissance time and went out of fashion because lemons became popular in cooking and superseded the use of green grape juice. The recipes suggested that the juice of the green grapes can be extracted by using a mouli or a juicer.

Walnuts and almonds are blanched to remove as much skin as possible. My sources indicated that there may have been more walnuts used than almonds in these sauces.

Today you can substitute: verjuice or dry white wine

Key ingredients:

  • blanched walnuts and almonds
  • onion, garlic, parsley
  • breadcrumbs for body
  • a touch of sugar
  • enough agresto/verjuice to form a soft paste.

Onions, garlic and parsley and a few breadcrumbs are pounded together with the nuts. Add a bit of sugar, some chopped parsley and sufficient grape juice to make the amalgamated ingredients soft – like a paste.

Heat these ingredients and add a little broth as the sauce will thickened because the bread crumbs.

Warm gently and thin with broth as needed.
Perfect for roast meats, especially pork, chicken or turkey.

SALSA D’AGRESTO

Salsa Verde – Italian Green Sauce

Salsa verde can be used to jazz anything up – vegetables, roasts, cold meats, smoked fish, crayfish etc. I sometimes use it to stuff hard boiled eggs (remove the yolk, mix with salsa verde and return it to the egg).

Parsley, anchovies, capers, green olives and good olive oil form the backbone of this lively sauce.

SALSA VERDE – ITALIAN GREEN SAUCE

Sarsa di Chiappareddi (Sicilian Caper and Anchovy Sauce)

There may be times when an accompanying sauce for fish cooked in various ways will bring you greater compliments.

Salted capers need to be soaked and rinsed well before use.

The sauce is called sarsa di chiappareddi in Sicilian. Salsa con capperi in Italian.

A beautiful sauce for grilled, baked or fried fish.
What makes it special: high-quality extra virgin olive oil, capers and anchovies from Sicily a fresh, herbal perfume released the moment cold sauce meets hot fish.

Simple, quick, and always impressive.

SARSA DI CHIAPPAREDDI

Bagna Cauda – The Piedmontese “Hot Bath”

Bagna Cauda, translated as “hot bath,” is a dip for any combination of firm vegetables – cooked or uncooked.

A warm, deeply savoury dip from Piedmont. Traditionally served in a communal pot surrounded by:

  • raw or cooked fennel
  • carrots
  • celery
  • cauliflower
  • peppers

Made from:

  • garlic
  • anchovies
  • butter
  • sometimes a little olive oil

It is a hot sauce and it is most essential to use quality, extra virgin, olive oil. This is especially important for cold sauces, – when the cold sauce hits the hot food, the fragrance of the oil will be strongly evident.

 BAGNA CAUDA

Salmurrigghiu / Salmoriglio – Sicilian Citrus-Herb Dressing

Such a simple Sicilian dressing and a Sicilian staple.

Just: extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice, oregano and most times a touch of garlic.

It’s sublime on grilled fishmeat, or vegetables—especially anything coming off the BBQ.

SALAMURRIGGHIU – SALMORIGLIO (salmorigano)

Home-Made Mayonnaise – Classic, Saffron, or Tuna

A good mayonnaise can rescue almost any cold dish.

Maionese.

See:
MAYONNAISE  and SAFFRON MAYONNAISE
INSALATA RUSSA
CHICKEN LAYERED WITH TUNA AND EGG MAYONNAISE
VITELLO TONNATO

Salsa Romesco – Spanish Almond and Pepper Sauce

Originally from Tarragona in Catalonia, though many mistakenly think it is Roman because of the name.

Excellent with:

This sauce is usually associated as a condiment for shellfish and fish. It is also good with eggs and grilled and roasted vegetables (especially cold, left over ones that need dressing up the next day).

Recently, I have been to two restaurants and this sauce was presented with cold asparagus.

Made from:

  • roasted red peppers
  • garlic
  • almonds
  • paprika
  • olive oil

Smoky, sweet, and a crowd-pleaser.

 SALSA ROMESCO

Salsa Saracina (Saracen Sauce)

A unique Sicilian cold sauce that blends:

  • green olives
  • pine nuts
  • sultanas
  • saffron

Often used with fish, but versatile enough for grilled vegetables, cold meats, or even room-temperature salads.It is sweet-and-savoury in the most Sicilian way.

I use it for many  hot or cold foods.

SALSA SARACINA (Saracen sauce)

Green Olive and Anchovy Sauce for Roast Duck

One of the times I roasted a duck I made this special sauce for it, and it tasted great.

  • green anchovies
  • parsley
  • tender celery heart
  • garlic
  • stock and wine added to the roasting pan and reduced in the pan made an excellent gravy.

A rich, aromatic gravy that lifts any roast beautifully and while you are at it, it includes the recipe for cooking the duc

ANATRA A PAPAREDDA CU L’ULIVI

Hot Mint Sauce (Casa Moro)

This is a recipe from Sam and Sam Clark’s Casa Moro, The Second Cookbook. I first had this sauce at a friend’s house accompanying roast goat. I too had this book.

it is a Middle Eastern-inspired sauce that pairs beautifully with:

  • roast goat
  • lamb
  • grilled meats

Made with:

  • mint
  • cumin
  • garlic
  • red wine vinegar or balsamic

Vibrant, earthy, and excellent for outdoor summer meals.

HOT MINT SAUCE

There are many other posts on this blog that delve into Christmas dishes from Sicily and other regions of Italy.  Whether you live in a cold or hot country  explore the content and adapt them for your own festive table.


	

SLOW COOKED LEG OF GOAT WITH HOT MINT SAUCE

Slow Cooked Goat with Hot Mint Sauce is one of those meals that reminds me that great cooking is never just about the food. It is about generosity, good company and sharing the best of what is in season.

Many of my friends are accomplished cooks, and my dear friend Mandy Martin was certainly one of them. Over the years I have been fortunate to enjoy many memorable meals in her home.

This meal deserved to be remembered.

What is left of the slow-roasted leg of goat after six hours in the oven.

A Goat Roast Inspired by the Country

Mandy and her husband live on a property called Pennyroyal on the north-western part of NSW.

Mandy purchased the goat from friends who live on a rural property near Cowra.  Goat is naturally lean, so it benefits from extra fat and a long, gentle cooking time that allows the meat to become meltingly tender.

Before roasting, Mandy marinated the leg in a fragrant chermoula made with ghee, extra virgin olive oil, her own preserved lemons and harissa. The combination brought together the richness of North African flavours with the freshness of citrus and spice.

Six Hours of Gentle Cooking

Mandy roasted the goat in a heavy, old-fashioned lidded roasting pan—one of those beautiful pieces of cookware that performs as well as it looks.

Mandy placed the meat on a rack in an old fashioned, baking dish (which is a delight in itself).

The meat sat on a rack above a little water in the base of the pan, creating gentle steam throughout the long cooking time. Keeping the lid on prevented the meat from drying out, while the marinade and moist heat ensured very little shrinkage. After six hours the goat was beautifully tender, juicy and full of flavour.

The pan juices, together with the caramelised scrapings from the roasting dish, made an exceptional gravy.

To roast the goat

  • Score the surface of the meat in a 1 cm criss-cross pattern to help the marinade penetrate.
  • Preheat the oven to 160°C.
  • Roast for approximately 6 hours with the lid on.
  • Add about ½ cup water to the pan after the first 30 minutes, then about every hour to maintain moisture.
Guy carving goat

The Perfect Accompaniments

A meal like this is never just about the roast.

Mandy served her garden-grown silverbeet sautéed with onion, garlic, chilli, cumin and whole chickpeas. Alongside was a creamy tahini dressing made with tahini, garlic, lemon juice, olive oil, cumin and enough warm water to create a silky consistency.

There were also roasted unpeeled kipfler potatoes dressed with extra virgin olive oil, and a cooling salad of cucumber, yoghurt, garlic and fresh mint.

Every element complemented the rich goat without overpowering it.

Slow-cooked goat served with silverbeet, chickpeas, roasted kipfler potatoes and cucumber yoghurt

The Hot Mint Sauce

Like the rest of Mandy’s preparation of the goat, the Hot Mint Sauce is adapted from Sam and Sam Clark’s Casa Moro: The Second Cookbook.

Unlike the traditional English mint sauce served cold with lamb, this version is warm, aromatic and gently spiced. It is wonderful with goat, lamb or any slow-roasted meat.

Ingredients

  • 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 8 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint
  • 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
  • 2 tablespoons good-quality sweet red wine vinegar
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • ½ teaspoon caster sugar (optional)

Method

Heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook until lightly golden, stirring occasionally.

Add half the mint and the cumin seeds and cook for another minute.

Pour in the vinegar and simmer for about 30 seconds.

Remove from the heat, stir through the remaining mint, season to taste and add the sugar if needed to balance the acidity.

Serve warm.

Mandy (head of table) with some of her paintings in the background after preparing another unforgettable country feast. Laura on the left, Alexander and me on the right

A Memorable Finish

As if the meal had not already been generous enough, dessert followed.

Mandy baked a rhubarb cake using rhubarb from her own garden and served it with homemade saffron ice cream made from the eggs laid by her hens.

All of this had been prepared by someone who, just as easily, could have spent the day in her painting studio. In fact, some of Mandy’s paintings can be seen hanging behind the dining table, a reminder that her creativity extended effortlessly from the canvas to the kitchen.

It was another unforgettable meal shared with a Mandy at Pennyroyal—one that celebrated beautiful produce, thoughtful cooking and the pleasure of gathering  with friends around a table.

Thank you Mandy, another memorable meal.

Having a good time on the back of Guy’s truck!

Goat or Kid?

Goat (capra in Italian) refers to the mature animal, while capretto is young goat or kid. As a general rule, Italians have traditionally preferred eating kid because of its delicate flavour and tenderness, although slow-cooked mature goat can be equally rewarding when prepared with patience and care.

 

If you enjoy cooking goat/kid, you may also like these recipes on my blog:

RICETTE per capretto (e capra) Recipes for slow cooked kid and goat

RAGÙ DI CAPRETTO; Goat/ kid ragout as a dressing for pasta

SPEZZATINO DI CAPRETTO (Italian Goat/ Kid stew)

SICILIAN SEAFOOD COOKING, ITALIANICIOUS and READER’S FEAST Bookstore. Recipe for Slow cooked goat in Nero D’Avola

KID/GOAT WITH ALMONDS (SPRING IN SICILY, CAPRETTO CON LE MANDORLE)

BRAISED KID (capretto) in a simple marinade of red wine, extra virgin olive oil and herbs

 

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