THE MANY VERSIONS OF CAPONATE and grilled food

Cooking and eating is greatly influenced by the seasonal variations in weather and the available seasonal produce.

Abundant in summer are eggplants, tomatoes, zucchini and peppers/capsicum and I enjoy making the most of these vibrant ingredients during this time.  Summer is also a time for grilled food that adds both char and depth of flavor to food.

Celebrating what’s in season enhances the taste of our dishes and allows us to connect more closely with nature’s cycles.

There are recipes in this post for grilled sardines and squid. Also grilled zucchini,  eggplants and peppers and a version of caponata as baked in the oven. A celery caponata makes a perfect and easy accompaniment for grilled food.

I particularly like grilled fish, especially sardines.

And squid tastes fantastic grilled, the charring adds so much flavour and character.  The tentacles are good too and apart from having a more intense flavour they offer a different texture. Squid will not need much cooking, especially if it has been marinading beforehand for an hour or so. Cook the squid quickly – about 5 mins on one side, flip it over and cook the other side for less. The marinade can be as uncomplicated as a little extra virgin olive oil, salt and a few herbs of your choice. To the marinade this time, I also added a splash of white wine.

A simple drizzle of good, extra virgin olive oil and lemon juice could be sufficient as a finishing dressing, especially it you are accompanying the squid with some flavourful side dishes.

There are also two accompanying,  Sicilian green, traditional sauces  –  Salmoriglio and Zogghiu to accompany all grilled food.

As for the accompanying dishes, I made two different Sicilian caponate (plural of caponata) and a green salad.

Caponate also make good starters and they taste better if cooked days before, making them an easy option. They are always served at room temperature: take them out of the fridge about 30 mins before serving.

Caponata as cooked in the oven

I cooked one of the caponate in the oven and used eggplants, onions, celery and peppers/capsicums. To make it different,  apart from baking the vegetables, I also added fennel seeds, plenty of basil and garlic as well as the customary green olives, capers, sugar, vinegar and pine nuts.

I definitely prefer the traditional method of sautéing  of each of the vegetables in hot oil because although I roasted the vegetables at high temperatures, they released far too many juices. I drained the liquid and evaporated in a saucepan and then pour it back into the oven tray. In the end it did taste good, but the flavour took far too long to fix.

Cool the caponata. Place the basil and toasted pine nuts on the caponata at the time of serving.

The caponata in the photo below is made with celery.  This caponata is very quick to cook and the addition of sultanas accentuate the sweet taste. The vinegar (present in all caponate) provides the sour taste and this cooked salad tastes very much like a pickle.

This celery caponata has the addition of toasted almonds rather than pine nuts.

The celery and onions are the only two vegetable ingredients and they can be sautéed in the same pan at the same time. Once they are slightly softened, add the drained and plump sultanas that have been soaking in water for an hour or so.  Add a little sugar and once the sugar begins to caramelise, add a splash of vinegar and evaporate.

Friends also enjoy the chocolate version of caponata. Pieces of dark chocolate are added in the final stages of cooking the eggplant version of caponata that is characteristic of Palermo and its region.

The caponata that includes peppers is typical of Catania and its region.

GRILLED CALAMARI (CALAMARI ‘NTA BRACI (Sicilian) – CALAMARI ALLA BRACE (Italian)

SARDINES, grilled or barbecued with Sicilian dressings

SALAMURRIGGHIU – SALMORIGLIO (Dressing made with oil, lemon and oregano)

ZOGGHIU (Sicilian pesto/dressing made with garlic, parsley and mint)

ANTIPASTO – GRILLED SUMMER VEGETABLES AND A SCOOP OF SALADS

CAPONATA FROM PALERMO (made with eggplants)

CAPONATA Catanese (from Catania) made easy with photos

CAPONATA DI NATALE (Christmas, winter caponata made with celery, almonds and sultanas)

For more recipes for different versions of Caponata, use the search button.

A SAVOURY COEUR À LA CRÈME to accompany a summer fresh tomato salad or summer vegetables

It is summer and time to celebrate good tomatoes and a good tomato salad is a perfect way to accompany a savoury coeur à la crème.

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I like making tomato salads like my parents used to make – with tomatoes, celery, fresh onion, basil or oregano, salt and good extra virgin olive oil.

And as the mood takes me, I sometimes like to accompany a tomato salad with one of the following simple dairy trimmings, like: bocconcini or mozzarella,  treccia,  ricotta, straciatellaburrata or marinaded feta or a panna cotta made with feta or gorgonzola.

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Cœur à la crème with a tomato salad to accompany and decorate it

Including the protein makes an excellent starter …..or as my parents did – eat a tomato salad with ricotta or bocconcini for lunch almost every day of summer.

I was in Gippsland yesterday and visited Bassine; they make a range of cheeses on the premises.

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Bassine Quality cheeses

I have been there before and have purchased various cheeses, but yesterday I came home with some quark and thought that would experiment and make a savoury coeur à la crème. 

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Coeur à la crème is usually served with berries but I thought that I could accompany my savoury coeur à la crème with a tomato salad. Alternatively roasted (or charred) peppers or  slow roasted baby tomatoes would also be great… or fried red peppers (peperonata) or lightly sautéed  zucchini and mint could be terrific…I could go on.

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Mould to drain and shape Mould to drain and shape the Cœur à la crème.the Coeur a la creme

You need muslin and a mold or container that allows drainage. I used a traditional ceramic, heart shape dish for making a coeur à la crème, but any container that is perforated with holes to drain off the excess moisture of the cheese or a colander can be used as an alternative.

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I used the following ingredients:

INGREDIENTS

250 gm each quark, 1 cup of Greek yogurt, 100g of marinaded feta, fresh thyme leaves ground pink peppercorns, 1 peeled clove of garlic, ½ cup pf milk, ½ cup good quality olive oil.

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Ingredients – quark,  Greek yogurt,  marinaded feta, fresh thyme 

PROCESSES

In a small sauce pan warm the milk over low heat. Remove from heat and let steep for 30 minutes and then strain out.

Combine cheeses and yogurt – you want the mixture fairly smooth so use a food processor or work it with a spoon.

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Add the thyme,  ground pink peppercorns and infused milk. 

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Line the mould with muslin (enough to cover the mold) and sprinkle with olive oil.

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Put cheese mixture into the mold, sprinkle with more olive oil and cover it with the left over muslin.

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Place the mold into a container or tray to catch the whey (liquid that drains away). Stand overnight in the fridge.

Carefully turn the mold out onto a serving plate.

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Serve with a tomato salad or anything thing else that catches your fancy.

Next time I make a ‘Coeur,’ I may try ricotta and herbs – no feta, no yogurt.

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The tomato salad to place on top of the Coeur

Recipes of summer vegetables:

PEPERONATA – PIPIRONATA (Sicilian) Braised peppers

FRIED ZUCCHINI – ZUCCHINE FRITTE (Zucchini are called CUCUZZEDDI in Sicilian)

PUMARORU CA CIPUDDA (Tomatoes with onions). INSALATA DI POMODORO (Tomato salad)

PEPPERS WITH BREADCRUMBS- PIPI CA MUDDICA – PEPERONI CON LA MOLLICA

ANTIPASTO – GRILLED SUMMER VEGETABLES AND A SCOOP OF SALADS

BURRATA, MOZARELLA, STRACCIATELLA

Coeur a la Crème made with Labneh

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Summer produce – peppers used to make Peperonata

FLAVOURED BUTTER TO DRESS AND ENHANCE TASTE

I hesitate to write recipes that are just so simple, but recently I was reminded  of the versitility of  how a simple flavoured butter can be used to dress and enhance tastes.

Consider grilled or steamed fish, meat or vegetables, bread and other accompaniments. Grilled vegetables are particularly popular this month; enhance them with a flavoured butter.

During my visit to South Australia, I enjoyed a diverse culinary experience in several restaurants. Many offered unique combinations of exceptional South Australian produce, while others, such as Skillogalee Winery Restaurant in the Clare Valley, provided simple, conventional fare that was ideal for visitors to wineries seeking a relaxing afternoon.

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Port Lincoln whole sardines served with lime and parsley butter with bread.

Our group of four sat in the garden and one of the dishes we chose to share was Port Lincoln whole sardines served with lime and parsley butter with bread.

We ordered 2 serves of these sardines.

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This modest yet delicious preparation highlights how a simple ingredient can significantly enhance a dish.

The Beurre Maître d’Hôtel, also known as Maître d’Hôtel butter or compound butter, is a mixture of butter, herbs, pepper and lemon juice. Typically formed into a cylinder and sliced, it was a popular garnish for grilled steak in high-end restaurants during the 1980s and 1990s. This technique was notably used by establishments such as The Arkaba Steak Cellar in Adelaide.

With a little imagination, different herbs instead of parsley will impart different flavours and grated lemon or lime peel will boost the citrus taste.

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BBQ sardines – easy to make.

RECIPE FOR MAKING LIME AND PARSLEY BUTTER

To make lime and parsley butter sufficient for four to six sardines and bread, begin with one cup of unsalted, high-quality butter at room temperature. Add one to two teaspoons of lime zest, two teaspoons of fresh lime juice, one tablespoon of finely chopped fresh parsley and a little salt and pepper to taste.

Use a fork to beat the butter in a bowl until smooth and creamy. Mix in the zest, juice and gradually add the parsley, salt and pepper until thoroughly combined.

Taste the dish and adjust the ingredients as necessary to suit your preference. Allow it to rest in the refrigerator to restore consistency and enhance the flavour.

For storage, wrap the dish in foil or baking paper and refrigerate until ready to use.

Grilled fish, including sardines, can be used as well as other meats and vegetables.

Herbs such as rosemary, thyme, sage, dill, basil, fennel fronds, tarragon, chives, oregano, marjoram and coriander can be substituted for parsley.

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Healthy sage.

 

Garlic, ginger, horseradish, paprika, pink pepper, spices….need I go on?

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Chives, Thyme, Parsley.

Other combinations:

I will add that I prefer finely chopped anchovy fillets combined in butter. Begin with 1 tablespoon of chopped anchovies to 1 cup of butter and add more if desired.

For miso butter, begin with 1 tablespoon of white miso and proceed as above. Red or brown miso can also be used.

Recently, I also experimented with mixing chopped lavender leaves into butter to serve with scones. A small amount is recommended to avoid a medicinal flavour.

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Healthy herbs in my garden – sage, thyme, oregano and rosemary.

THE HUMBLE SARDINE, A SUSTAINABLE CHOICE

SARDINES, grilled or barbecued with Sicilian dressings

SARDINE, CRUDE E CONDITE; raw and marinaded)

 

 

ANTIPASTO – GRILLED SUMMER VEGETABLES AND A SCOOP OF SALADS

An antipasto of grilled summer vegetables and a scoop of salads are one of the simplest and most satisfying meals. When eggplants and peppers are abundant in summer and autumn, there is little that can rival a generous platter of beautifully grilled seasonal vegetables dressed with excellent extra virgin olive oil or some of the sauces I have listed below.

They are equally at home as a light starter, part of an antipasto spread or alongside grilled meat, fish or cheese as part of the main meal.

Grilled vegetables are a classic Italian antipasto, especially when summer eggplants, zucchini and peppers are at their best
Choose the Best Seasonal Vegetables

Eggplants and peppers are favourites, but zucchini deserve a place on the platter too. Depending on the season, I also like to include asparagus, broccolini or green beans. Even leftover cooked vegetables from the previous evening can be transformed into something special.

The vegetables can be cooked over a barbecue, on a grill plate or in the oven. The important thing is to cook them until they are tender and lightly charred, bringing out their natural sweetness.

Once grilled, all they need is a drizzle of good-quality extra virgin olive oil, finely chopped garlic, fresh parsley and perhaps a squeeze of lemon juice.

Charring peppers on the BBQ

The vegetables can be grilled on a BBQ or Grill press or in the oven.

Grilling eggplants the Grill Press

Vegetables – Add Freshness and Crunch

One of the pleasures of a grilled vegetable platter is that it can be different every time.

For contrast, add finely sliced celery, fennel, cucumber or even crisp apple. Tomatoes, spring onions and fresh basil also work beautifully. These fresh ingredients add colour, texture and brightness while the olive oil ties everything together with its fragrance and richness.

Simple ingredients, thoughtfully combined, rarely disappoint.

Grilled vegetables with other ingredients
Romesco Sauce – A flavourful Accompaniment

Recently, I noticed the same idea in two different restaurants. Both served grilled vegetables with generous dollops of Romesco sauce on the side.

One dish featured grilled asparagus topped with crisp fried breadcrumbs. The other showcased grilled eggplant, cooked until soft and then roughly mashed rather than served in slices. The creamy eggplant paired beautifully with the smoky, nutty Romesco.

A slice of rustic bread was all that was needed to scoop up the vegetables and every last spoonful of the sauce.

And, of course, another drizzle of excellent extra virgin olive oil completed the dish.

Summer tomatoes and basil
SALSA ROMESCO (Romesco Sauce with Roasted Peppers, Tomatoes and Almonds)

Romesco is a rich, smoky sauce that pairs beautifully with grilled vegetables, seafood and meats. This version combines roasted peppers, tomatoes, garlic and almonds, resulting in a sauce that is full of flavour and wonderfully versatile.

Char-grill or barbecue the peppers whole until the skins are blackened. Peel away the skins, remove the seeds and tear the flesh into strips. If using fresh tomatoes, cut them into large pieces and grill them alongside the peppers. Roast or grill the garlic until soft.

Blend the roasted vegetables with the almonds and the remaining ingredients until you achieve the texture you prefer—either smooth or slightly coarse.

Romesco Sauce with Hazelnuts

Hazelnuts are a traditional alternative to almonds and give the sauce a richer, deeper flavour. In this version, all of the vegetables are roasted in the oven rather than grilled.

Use the same ingredients as the recipe above, substituting hazelnuts for the almonds.

Place the tomatoes, peppers and a whole head of garlic in a lightly oiled roasting tray and roast in a preheated 190°C oven. Remove each vegetable as it becomes tender: the tomatoes will take about 10 minutes, while the peppers and garlic will need approximately 30–40 minutes. Once cooled, peel the peppers and garlic, then blend with the remaining ingredients to your preferred consistency.

Sauces, see also:

SALSA ROMESCO (Romesco sauce, this recipe is made with roasted peppers, tomatoes and almonds)

SALAMURRIGGHIU – SALMORIGLIO (Dressing made with oil, lemon and oregano)

SAUCES for meat, fish and vegetables to brighten up your Christmas

SARSA DI CHIAPPAREDDI (King George Whiting presented with a sauce made with capers and anchovies)

Other recipes for grilled Peppers:

ROASTED CHARRED PEPPERS

PEPPERS WITH BREADCRUMBS- PIPI CA MUDDICA – PEPERONI CON LA MOLLICA

 

 

 

 

 

SALAMURRIGGHIU – SALMORIGLIO (Dressing made with oil, lemon and oregano)

Grilled vegies best

I cannot believe that although I have suggested salmoriglio as a dressing many times I have never provided a recipe for this very simple, Sicilian dressing which is excellent with grilled food……. fish, meat and all types of grilled vegetables – and perfect for the hot weather. In the photo above there are zucchini, eggplants and pumpkin. Peppers and mushrooms are also very good.

This is the most common of the Sicilian dressings. Salmoriglio is made with salt (sale), lemon (limone), oregano (origano), hence sal + mo + riglio. It is also called salmorigano. In Sicilian, there are many variations to the spelling of the sauce — sammurigghiu, sarmurigghiu, sarmuriggiu.

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The origins of salmoriglio are Greek and traditionally the cold dressing is poured over hot, grilled meat, fish or vegetables. The heat releases the aromas and stimulates the appetite. It is also a marinade, or a basting liquid for grilled meat or fish.

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INGREDIENTS

Oregano, fresh, 2 tablespoon cut finely or 1 teaspoon dry
salt and pepper or chilli flakes, to taste
extra virgin olive oil, 1 cup
lemons, juice of 2

PROCESSES: Use a fork to whip the above ingredients together in a glass or narrow jug.

VARIATIONS: Add a little hot water to the dressing. Heat in a bain marie for about 5 minutes The heating of the sauce accentuates the fragrances of the ingredients.

I have seen a recipe where fresh oregano (4 tablespoons) is pounded with salt (1 tablespoon) in a mortar and pestle. Add 2 tablespoons of lemon juice, 8 of oil and some black pepper.

My family has always added ½ cup of parsley and 1 clove of mashed garlic.