Puntarelle alla Romana and Cicoria Ripassata are two classic Roman dishes that celebrate Italy’s fondness for bitter greens. Both are types of chicory.
Puntarelle
Puntarelle are a distinctive type of Italian chicory (cicoria catalogna), especially associated with Rome and the Lazio region, where they appear in markets during the cooler months.
I have always loved Italy’s bitter greens — cicoria, radicchio, indivia, cime did rape, dandelion — flavours that many people initially find challenging, but which Italians value for their slight bitterness. Puntarelle belong firmly within this tradition.
The plant has long serrated leaves, but the prized part is the pale green central shoots that are tender, crunchy and slightly bitter.
Their texture and flavour make them especially refreshing when eaten raw.
Puntarelle, even more so than chicory, are not a common vegetable. I have only purchased Puntarelle twice in Australia, once from Carmel and Gus’s stall at the Queen Victoria Market and now I was delighted to find it at Daniel’s stall in the B Shed Shop 23-26. The stall is called Sophia’s.
The classic Roman preparation is Puntarelle alla Romana. The shoots are sliced finely into thin strips and soaked in iced water until they curl and become wonderfully crisp – a bit like curling celery.
They are then dressed simply with olive oil, garlic, anchovy and vinegar or lemon juice. The flavour is sharp, savoury and refreshing at the same time. Sometimes hard boiled eggs are added to the dressed salad and this makes this dish extra suitable as a starter.
Like many Italian vegetables, very little is wasted. The outer leaves are often boiled or sautéed with olive oil, garlic and chilli in the style of cicoria ripassata, much like other bitter greens prepared throughout Italy. I have added this recipe because I have mentioned that the course outer leaves are cooked and not wasted.
A mixture of leafy greens can be added with the outer leaves of the Punterelle as there are likely insufficient greens to cook in this manner.
I particularly appreciate puntarelle because they reflect something essential about Italian cooking: the ability to transform a simple seasonal vegetable into something elegant through restraint and balance rather than complexity.
For those who enjoy vegetables such as dandelion greens, chicory or radicchio, puntarelle offer a similar bitterness but with a particularly crisp texture and elegant appearance. They pair beautifully with anchovies, citrus, capers, olives and robust olive oil — flavours that appear frequently in Roman and southern Italian cooking.
ROME’S BITTER GREENS
Puntarelle alla Romana
This is one of Rome’s most characteristic salads — crisp, bitter and refreshing, with the salty sharpness of anchovy balancing the chicory beautifully.
Ingredients
- 1 bunch puntarelle (mine was one plant)
- 4 -8 anchovy fillets
- 1-2 garlic clove
- 2–3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
- 1-2 tablespoon white wine vinegar or lemon juice
- Freshly ground black pepper
Preparing the Puntarelle
Separate the pale inner shoots from the outer leaves. Save the small leaves to add to the salad.
Slice the shoots finely into thin strips. Traditionally they are cut very thinly so they curl easily.
Place the strips into a bowl of iced water for about 30 minutes. This helps them curl and become crisp.
Preparing the Dressing
Traditionally, anchovies and garlic are crushed together to form a paste. Add olive oil and vinegar or lemon juice and mix well.
Alternatively, the garlic can be crushed and placed in a jar with the oil and lemon juice. The anchovies are then cut into small pieces and mixed together just before dressing the salad. I prefer to do this as it allows for a more visual presentation.
Assembling the Salad
Drain the puntarelle thoroughly and dress just before serving.
Taste and adjust seasoning carefully — the anchovies are already salty.
The salad is excellent with grilled fish, roasted meats or simply with bread especially when there are boiled eggs in the salad.
We had it as an accompaniment to a seafood Paella.
Cicoria Ripassata
This is one of the simplest and most satisfying ways Italians cook bitter greens. The word ripassata refers to the greens being “passed again” through the pan after boiling.
Ingredients
- 1 large bunch cicoria or other bitter greens including the outer leaves of the Puntarelle
- 2–3 garlic cloves, sliced
- Chilli flakes or fresh chilli to taste
- Extra virgin olive oil
- Salt
Cooking the Greens
- Wash the greens thoroughly and trim any tough stems.
- Boil in salted water until tender — usually about 10–15 minutes depending on the maturity of the greens.
- Drain well and gently squeeze out excess water. Chop roughly if the leaves are large.
- Heat generous olive oil in a frying pan.
- Add the garlic and chilli and cook briefly until fragrant, but do not allow the garlic to burn.
- Add the greens and sauté for several minutes so they absorb the flavours of the oil.
- Taste for salt and serve warm or at room temperature.
In Rome this dish is often served alongside grilled sausages or roasted meats, especially pork – the bitterness counteracts the fatty nature of the meat.
CICORIA and Puntarelle (Chicory)