Tag: Garlic

EGG PAPPARDELLE WITH FRESH, BROWN MUSHROOMS

Egg pappardelle with fresh, brown mushrooms, garlic and aromatic herbs is a simple, satisfying pasta dish that I am always happy to eat.

The earthy flavour of mushrooms, enhanced by rosemary, thyme and a splash of white wine, makes a delicious sauce for the broad ribbons of egg pasta.

I am writing this post for two reasons. Firstly, after nearly six weeks of being unable to access my blog, All Things Sicilian and More, I am keen to discover whether everything is finally working as it should. What better way to test it than by publishing a new recipe?

Secondly, I recently prepared this dish in a holiday house in Victor Habor  (close to Adelaide), in someone else’s kitchen, with unfamiliar equipment and a frying pan that was considerably smaller than I would have liked.This was only because of the large amounts of mushrooms I insisted on.

Fortunately, a good pasta dish doesn’t require elaborate equipment, just excellent ingredients and a little ingenuity.

Beautiful, fresh, brown, large mushrooms were the inspiration for this pasta dish.
Excellent Quality Fresh Mushrooms Were the Inspiration

There were four of us for a quick Sunday lunch, but the large, brown mushrooms were so fresh, large and beautiful that I couldn’t resist buying well over a kilogram.

Mushrooms are particularly good with egg pasta. Their earthy, savoury flavour complements the richness of the eggs, while the broad ribbons of pappardelle provide plenty of surface area for the sauce to cling to.

I kept the other ingredients simple: garlic, a small onion, fresh rosemary and thyme, some parsley, a little dry white wine, salt, freshly ground black pepper and, of course, extra virgin olive oil.

I added a couple of tablespoons of butter towards the end of cooking, this enhanced the flavours of the mushrooms, herbs, wine and olive oil and made the sauce more viscous.

Cooking Plenty of Mushrooms in a Small Frying Pan

The greatest challenge was accommodating such a generous quantity of mushrooms in a frying pan that was clearly too small for the job. But there was a lid.

Mushrooms contain a considerable amount of water and reduce substantially in volume as they cook. The solution was to add them gradually, allowing each addition to soften and reduce before adding more. I used a lid at times to provide more steam and quicken the process.

More than a kilogram of mushrooms, sliced and ready for the frying pan. This can be viewed as being excessive for 4 people, however, I was excited by the quality of the mushrooms.

It required a little patience, but it worked beautifully.

The mushrooms released their juices, the garlic and herbs added fragrance, and the white wine reduction and addition of the butter brought everything together.

Once tossed with the freshly cooked egg pappardelle, the result was a delicious,  an uncomplicated pasta dish.

Sometimes the simplest meals, particularly those prepared without the comforts of your own kitchen, turn out to be among the most enjoyable.

RECIPE: Egg Pappardelle with Fresh Brown Mushrooms

Serves: 4
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 25–30 minutes

Ingredients
  • 400–500 g dried egg pappardelle, or approximately 600 g fresh egg pappardelle
  • 1–1.2 kg fresh brown mushrooms (or field mushrooms)
  • 1 small onion, finely chopped
  • 3–4 cloves garlic, finely chopped or sliced
  • 2–3 sprigs fresh thyme
  • 1 small sprig fresh rosemary, leaves finely chopped
  • 1/2 cup of chopped parsley (or more)
  • 100 ml dry white wine
  • 4–5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 tbs of butter
  • Salt, to taste
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • Reserved pasta cooking water, if needed (my sauce had enough moisture)
Method

1. Prepare the mushrooms

Gently brush or wipe the mushrooms to remove any soil. Trim the stems if necessary and slice the mushrooms fairly thickly. Larger mushrooms can be cut into generous pieces so they retain some texture during cooking.

2. Sauté the onion and garlic

Heat the extra virgin olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat.

Add the finely chopped onion and cook gently until softened and translucent.

Add the garlic, stirring for another minute until fragrant. Take care not to brown the garlic.

Adding the mushrooms gradually allowed me to cook a generous quantity in a surprisingly small frying pan.

3. Cook the mushrooms

Add the mushrooms gradually, beginning with a few generous handfuls.

Allow them to soften and reduce before adding more. Cover with a lid occasionally and add rosemary and thyme.  Stir now and then to encourage even cooking.

As the mushrooms release their moisture, they will shrink considerably, making room for the remaining mushrooms.

Continue cooking until all the mushrooms have been added and most of their liquid has evaporated.

4. Add the white wine

Pour in the white wine and allow it to simmer until the alcohol has evaporated and the liquid has reduced.

Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

 Add butter. The finished mushrooms should be moist and glossy, with a little concentrated cooking liquid remaining to coat the pasta.

5. Cook the pappardelle

Bring a large saucepan of generously salted water to the boil.

Add the egg pappardelle and cook until al dente, following the recommended cooking time for fresh or dried pasta. Our pasta was 7 mins.

Before draining, reserve a cup of the pasta cooking water just in case you need it. I didn’t

6. Combine the cooked pappardelle and mushrooms

Add the drained pappardelle to the mushrooms and toss gently.

If you need to do this Add a little reserved pasta cooking water, a tablespoon or two at a time, to loosen the sauce and help it coat the pasta.

Finish with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and some freshly ground black pepper.

Broad ribbons of egg pappardelle are ideal for carrying the rich, savoury mushroom sauce.

7. Serve immediately

Divide the pappardelle and mushrooms between four warm plates, ensuring everyone receives a generous portion of mushrooms.

This is a dish best enjoyed immediately, while the pasta is hot and the fragrance of the mushrooms and herbs is at its best.

Remove the stalks before mixing the mushrooms with the pasta.
A Few Cooking Notes

Choosing mushrooms: Brown mushrooms have a deeper, earthier flavour than ordinary white button mushrooms. Large, mature specimens are particularly suitable for this dish.

Avoiding overcrowding: Ideally, mushrooms are sautéed in a wide pan to encourage evaporation and browning. However, as my experience demonstrated, adding them gradually also works when equipment is limited. The mushrooms will initially steam in their own juices, but continued cooking will concentrate their flavour.

Using fresh herbs: Rosemary has a strong flavour, so use it sparingly. Thyme is particularly complementary to mushrooms. If I had sage, I would have added that as well.

Parmesan: A little freshly grated Parmigiano offered at the table,  can be a good idea, although  sometime I prefer to appreciate the flavour of the mushrooms and herbs without it.

Nutmeg? Nutmeg was unavailable in this holiday residence, which is understandable given its temporary nature. I would typically use it to enhance the dish.

Type of mushrooms? Any, or a mixture of mushrooms including dry porcini.

PASTA WITH MUSHROOMS; Pasta ai funghi

WILD MUSHROOMS; Saffron Coloured, Pine Mushrooms and Slippery Jacks

STUFFED MUSHROOMS with pine nuts and fresh breadcrumbs – Funghi ripieni

CAMPING and COOKING

When I go camping I enjoy cooking just as much as when I cook at home. I like to go camping as often as possible.

I particularly enjoy the challenge of undertaking of cooking with limited resources – few ingredients, simple cooking methods and equipment. Each meal is further restricted by what ingredients and produce has to be used first.

Camping meals also have to be easy, quick to cook and as flavoursome as I can make them. The basics are extra virgin olive oil, good quality wine vinegar or balsamic, anchovies, capers, mustard, fresh herbs from my garden, some spices and anything else that is in my home fridge and that I have room for in my camping fridge/ cooler box, for example any of the following: harissa, egg mayonnaise, tapenade,  preserved lemons, left-over cooked food and sauces…these will enrich the flavours of what I am to cook.

Above: kale sautéed with garlic, anchovies and chillies is accompanied with saganaki.  Like when cooking FORMAGGIO ALLA  ARGENTIERA I always add a sprinkling of  dried oregano while it is cooking.

Above: braised mushrooms will be used to dress pasta or  may accompany pork sausages or used to make a frittata.

Above: eggs poached in some tomato salsa and sprinkled with fresh basil leaves.

Above: braised red radicchio with pan-fried salamino (or chorizo).

Above: cauliflower cooked with rosemary and saffron and some creamed feta. This too could be used as a pasta sauce.

Above: pork sausages are pretty much staples for camping. They can be crumbled into dishes or cooked whole with tomatoes, sauerkraut, lentils or beans.

Above: pork sausages with lentils.

After 30 years of  using a blue gas stove I now have a yellow one.  This one lights more easily and generates more heat.

Sautéed  green leafy vegetables with chilli.

This is a common Italian method to cook any green leafy vegetables , such as : kale,  cavolo nero, spinach, chicory,  endives,  cime di rape, brassicas. Italians, like my mother would blanche or cook the leafy greens in boiling, salted water before sautéing , however because I prefer my vegetables not to be overcooked I omit the precooking.

I like to add a substantial amount of anchovies, but I am careful about adding salt to the greens when I sauté them in  extra virgin olive oil, garlic, and chilli.

Sauté the anchovies, The anchovies have to be cut finely and tossed about in some extra virgin olive oil to dissolve/ melt. This happens quickly.

Add some chopped garlic and chillies and toss for a couple of minutes before adding the washed greens and sauté until cooked to your liking.

Other posts about camping:

CAMPING, Pumpkin risotto

EATING WELL, Camping in Tasmania, BBQ chicken-Pollo alla Diavola

EATING AND DRINKING IN THE GOLDFIELDS in Victoria

PRODUCE IN GIPPSLAND ; Campside Eating

Below: The Otway National Park, Victoria, my last camping trip.

PEPPERS WITH BREADCRUMBS- PIPI CA MUDDICA – PEPERONI CON LA MOLLICA

This Sicilian recipe – Pipi ca Muddica – begins with roasted peppers.

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I made a large batch of these recently for a gathering (I used 4 k of peppers) but when I am busy I do not always have time to take photos. These are the leftovers so as you can see, they were popular.

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To roast peppers

Roasting peppers is easy and great for the hot weather as they can be roasted (or grilled) over an open flame on a barbecue. I have never used my oven to roast peppers, but some people do.

Select a variety of colours. Peppers should be, whole, firm and unbroken.

Place whole peppers on the hot metal grill over an open flame or coals. Turn them over a few times and the skin should soften and their skin will char after 15-20 minutes of cooking. and you get a nice smoky flavor.

Once you’ve roasted your peppers, you will need to complete the cooking and the softening of the peppers by steaming. This process will help you peel the tough skin. My mother used to place them in a heavy brown paper bag or a plastic bag and seal it. I place them into a casserole with a lid and leave them there for at least 30 minutes.

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Peel the peppers and seed them and tear them into strips. The roasted peppers are now ready to make into a salad. By far the most common Sicilian recipe for roasted peppers is to add a couple of red tomatoes that you have also charred on the open flame and use this to make the dressing.

Remove their skin, mash with a fork add slivers of garlic, extra virgin olive oil, fresh basil, salt, pepper and some lemon juice.  Dress the peppers, mix well and once dressed serve them within an hour.

I say ‘within and hour’ because roasted peppers if left to stand begin to weep their juices and you will find that the dressing has been diluted significantly. An alternative is to leave the peppers (can be stored in the fridge), drain them well and dress them just before serving.

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The recipe for Pipi ca Muddica – Peperoni con la mollica (Italian) uses some breadcrumbs and this is one way to absorb some of the juices that are released.

Breadcrumbs are very important in Sicilian Cuisine and there are many recipes that use either coarse, fried bread crumbs or fine and dry (for coating food to fry).

Use 1-3 day old white bread (crusty bread, sourdough or pasta dura).

Breadcrumbs (Coarse).

These are used as a topping for baked recipes and stuffings. Remove crust, break into pieces, place into a food processor and make into coarse crumbs. They can be grated or crumbled with fingertips.

Fried Breadcrumbs.

These provide greater flavour and texture and are usually sprinkled on cooked foods, for example: Pasta con Sarde or Caponata.Heat about ½ cup of extra virgin olive oil in a frying pan and add 1 cup of coarse breadcrumbs (see above). Stir continuously on low temperature until an even, golden brown.

Depending on in what I am using the bread crumbs, I may add all sorts of goodies to these, for example there may be: grated lemon peel, pine nuts, cinnamon, nutmeg, a little sugar.

 

Pipi ca Muddica – Peperoni con la mollica

There are a number of versions of this Sicilian recipe from different parts of the island and the most common are those versions that add fried onion or some raisins, or pine nuts. This version of  Pipi ca Muddica is from the area around Syracuse.

It can be an entrée (as a small course served before a larger one) or as a vegetable side dish.

1.5 k of roasted peppers torn into strips
1 cup of bread crumbs (Coarse, see above)
2-3 cloves of garlic
1/2 cup of capers
3-4 tablespoons wine vinegar
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
salt and black pepper

Lightly and gently sauté the chopped garlic in the oil, add the breadcrumbs and stir them around in the hot pan until golden. Add the roasted peppers, the capers and the wine vinegar. Add the seasoning and toss the contents around over moderate- to hot heat until the vinegar evaporates 5-10 mins. Some cooks add a little bit of sugar- the sweet and sour taste is very common in some Sicilian cuisine.

Place the contents into a dish and let cool – Pipi ca Muddica should be served cold. They can be placed in the refrigerator for about 1-2 days. Remove them from the refrigerator about half an hour before serving.

Basil leaves are not compulsory, but I do like this herb.

 

PISCI ALL’ AGGHIATA – PESCE ALL’AGLIATA (Soused fish with vinegar, garlic and bay)

In the period before Christmas my fishmonger at the Queen Victoria Market seemed to be stocking a large quantity of what I call festive fish – mainly lobsters (called crayfish incorrectly), bugs, prawns, scallops and sashimi grade tuna – not the type of fish that I am interested in purchasing.

He always seems to have sardines, and squid but there seem to be no room in his display cabinet or fridge for these. He had run out of the small supply of King George whiting and flathead so I walked away with Snapper. I felt uncomfortable with this choice because I knew that although the Department of Primary Industries in Victoria (Fisheries) lists snapper as a sustainable species, in Australia’s Sustainable Seafood Guide (AMCS) it is considered to be overfished and environmentally limited in VIC.And that is just the issue; it can be relatively difficult to find information about making ethical choices and to purchase sustainable seafood.

This being the first week in January I was even more disappointed to find large supplies of swordfish, marlin and shark (marketed as flake, particularly in Victoria). He also had blue grenadier, blue warehou, snapper again, all classified as not sustainable by AMCS.

However he did have trevally a relative cheaper and tasty fish that is also sustainable. It is a strong tasting fish and a very suitable choice for making Pisci All’ Agghiata – soused fish with complimentary strong flavours – vinegar, garlic and bay. Aglio is the Italian word for garlic (agghiu in Sicilian), so it is easy to guess what ingredient is the defined flavour.

I had some Cippolata (a thick sauce made with onions, sugar and vinegar) in my fridge that I had previously made for another dish and presenting this as an accompaniment seemed perfect.

PISCI ALL’ AGGHIATA
INGREDIENTS
fish, 1-3kg
garlic, cloves, 6-10, cut into halves
bay leaves,
white wine vinegar, ¾ cup
extra virgin olive oil, ¾ cup
flour to coat the fish (optional)
PROCESSES
Coat the fish lightly in flour with little salt (optional and traditional).
Fry the fish in hot extra virgin olive oil, until all the sides are golden. Remove the fish and set aside.  Use the same oil or replace it (if you have coated the fish with flour). Heat the oil.
Add the garlic and when it becomes golden add the vinegar and evaporate for a few minutes.
Place the fish in a bowl deep enough to hold the fish and vinegar marinade.
Intersperse the fish with fresh bay leaves.
Pour the marinade over the fish. Cool it, cover and let the fish rest for several hours before serving at room temperature (or store in the fridge until ready to serve, and remove it from the fridge about an hour beforehand).
 
The Australian Marine Conservation Society (AMCS) (read more)

Australia’s Sustainable Seafood Guide Online – the first online sustainability guide in Australia. Developed in response to growing public concerns about the state of our seas, it is designed to help you make informed seafood choices and play a part in swelling the tide for sustainable seafood. Visit http://www.sustainableseafood.org.au to learn more about sustainable seafood and buy your copy of the guide today.

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BAKED STUFFED TOMATOES – POMODORI RIPIENI (PUMARORI CHINI in Sicilian)

These stuffed tomatoes were cooked by my friends. They are hydroponic tomatoes and I was very surprised to find that they were very flavoursome – in fact, they tasted almost as good as real tomatoes. Of course, the stuffing helped.

I am even more surprised by the quality of the photo, which was taken with my friend’s mobile phone.

I usually never buy hydroponic tomatoes. As it happens, I used not to buy any tomatoes when they were out of season, until those growers in Murray Bridge (South Australia) and Mildura (Victoria) miraculously extended their growing season and arranged transportation to one particular stall in the Queen Victoria Market. We shall probably have to wait for the heirloom varieties and local tomatoes till late December.

Pomodoro is tomato in Italian. Interestingly, they were first called pomo d’oro (meaning golden apples) and apparently tomatoes were yellow when they were first introduced to Europe – it is said to have originated in Central America. Maybe the oro (gold) reflects its golden status in cuisine.

My friends used Yotam Ottolenghi’s recipe for stuffed tomatoes from Plenty, his latest book.

Ottolenghi has several take–home food shops in London. His cuisine reflects contemporary Middle Eastern and Mediterranean flavours; I had the pleasure of attending one of his sessions at The Sydney international Food Festival in October this year.

In his recipe he uses a mixture of breadcrumbs, onion, garlic, black olives, capers, oregano, parsley and mint. The tomatoes are baked in olive oil. He calls it a Provincial-style starter and suggests serving them with a little salad of seasonal leaves and a few broken pieces of robust goat’s cheese.

Stuffing tomatoes was one of my childhood tasks therefore Ottolenghi’s recipe bought back many memories. We ate them warm or cold as a contorno or as an antipasto.

Although adding black olives, garlic, grated cheese and anchovies and mint are common regional variations, but my family preferred to keep the flavours simple. Grated cheese, anchovies or black olives (and just one of these ingredients) were only added when the stuffed tomatoes were to accompany a dish of strong flavours for example, a heavily spiced fish stew or sardines, (hence Ottolenghi’s suggestion to present them with some robust goat’s cheese seems appropriate).

INGREDIENTS

tomatoes, firm and ripe, 6 (estimate 1 per person and depending on their size)
extra virgin olive oil, 1 cup
garlic, 3 cloves, chopped finely
bread crumbs,  1 cup made from fresh 1-3 day bread
parsley, ½  cup , cut finely or fresh basil
oregano, dried, ½ teaspoon, or 1 tablespoon cut finely if fresh
capers, ½ cup, rinsed and soaked, if salted
salt  and freshly ground black pepper

PROCESSES

Cut the tomatoes, into halves. Scoop out the seeds and leave them upside down to drain.
Preheat the oven to 180 C.
Sauté the garlic in a little of the oil. Let cool.
Add the sautéed garlic and herbs to the breadcrumbs and mix with some of the oil, seasoning and the capers.
Fill the tomatoes with the mixture but don’t press it down– it will expand as it cooks.
Arrange the stuffed tomatoes in an oiled baking pan and dribble a little olive oil over each.
Bake for about 30 mins, or until the tomatoes are soft and the breadcrumbs are golden.

 

CONIGLIO A PARTUISA (Braised rabbit as cooked in Ragusa)

Coniglio a Partuisa is a traditional braised rabbit dish from the province of Ragusa in southeast Sicily, and it reflects the rich culinary heritage of the region. This corner of Sicily is rooted in both ancient farming traditions and strong religious identity, particularly devotion to San Giorgio, the patron saint of the city.

For centuries, agricultural life, community celebrations, and regional cuisine have been linked to the feast days of local saints, when families would gather to prepare elaborate dishes such as this flavourful rabbit braise.

Ragusa Ibla, San Giorgio Church in the background

This celebrates my cousin Corrado and his wife Barbara who live in Ragusa.

Ragusa Ibla

My relative Corrado lives in Ragusa and tells me that the festivities in Ragusa Ibla are already in full swing for the feast of San Giorgio – the celebration always takes place on the last Sunday in May, filling the old city with colour, music, and deeply rooted tradition.

Corrado and Barbara will be taking advantage of the warm weather and riding their Vespa down to Ibla this evening:
“Oggi qui a Ibla c’è la festa di San Giorgio, e questa sera scenderò a ibla con la mia vespa e con Barbara. La serata è calda è quasi estate…”

Sicilian traditions from Ragusa

Ragusa’s cuisine blends rural, monastic and feasting traditions. Rabbit has long been a common protein in Sicilian country cooking, and in Ragusa it is often prepared slowly, braised with wine, herbs, garlic and subtle aromatics to create a rich, comforting dish. The name Partuisa is believed to refer to this slow method of stewing the meat until tender, a style deeply rooted in peasant cooking and seasonal home-grown ingredients.

Feasts dedicated to San Giorgio are some of Ragusa’s most celebrated dates, when processions, fireworks and community meals fill the streets. While dishes vary from household to household, rabbit, lamb and other rustic foods have traditionally been central to these communal tables, symbolising nourishment, gratitude and the agricultural foundations of the region.

INGREDIENTS

  • 1 rabbit, cut into small pieces
  • ½ cup green olives
  • ½ cup capers
  • 4 cloves garlic
  • A few sprigs of fresh mint leaves
  • 3 bay leaves

  • 1 glass red wine mixed with ½ cup red wine vinegar

  • 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • Extra mint for garnish

PROCESS

  1. In a large frying pan, heat the extra virgin olive oil and sauté the rabbit pieces until golden.
  2. Add olives, capers, garlic, mint, bay leaves, salt and pepper.
  3. Lower the heat and begin adding the mixture of wine and vinegar gradually as the rabbit cooks.
  4. If the rabbit is young and tender and the pieces small, it may be cooked by the time the liquid has evaporated.
  5. If it needs longer (as is often the case), add a little water, cover, and simmer gently until tender – continuing to add wine and vinegar as required.
  7. Remove the lid and allow the juices to reduce and caramelise. The rabbit should be a deep golden brown.
  8. Garnish with fresh mint and serve hot.
  9. Decorate with fresh mint (for appearance and taste).

A humble and deeply Sicilian meal that perfectly reflects Ragusan tradition.

Memories of Zia Niluzza’s Kitchen

The photo of this dish was taken in Zia Niluzza’s kitchen on my last visit to Sicily.

Unfortunately the photo does not do the flavour justice – the taste is exceptional. As you can see, it is cooked in a heavy frying pan, which helps the juices evaporate and caramelise, coating the meat in rich flavour.

If using wild rabbit, it is often soaked in water and vinegar for at least an hour beforehand. This helps remove any strong flavour and also lightens the flesh.

I also like to add a handful of fresh mint just before serving, a final fragrant touch that enhances both flavour and appearance.

In the spirit of Ragusa, it is best enjoyed slowly, at a shared table.

 

MAIALINO ARROSTO (Roast, suckling pig)

Maialino arrosto

Maialino Arrosto and Porchetta – Roast Suckling Pig

Maialino arrosto is simply roasted piglet, while porchetta refers to a particular Italian tradition of seasoning and roasting pork. The two are closely related, but they are not quite the same thing.

Maialino arrosto and porchetta – what is the difference?

Maialino di latte is a suckling piglet, still young enough to be feeding on its mother’s milk. Roasted whole, it becomes maialino arrosto, prized for its tender meat and crisp, golden skin.

Porchetta, on the other hand, is particularly associated with Lazio and the town of Ariccia, south of Rome. Traditionally, a young pig is carefully boned, generously seasoned inside with salt, garlic, rosemary and other herbs, then closed or rolled and slowly roasted. The result is succulent, highly seasoned pork encased in crisp skin.

Today, smaller versions of porchetta are commonly made from boned cuts of pork, rolled around their seasoning and roasted. These are much more practical for the domestic kitchen.

Porchetta and the tradition of Ariccia

Cooking a whole pig is associated with celebrations and festivals in many parts of Italy, but Ariccia is especially famous for its porchetta. There it has long been sold at markets, festivals and from street stalls, sliced generously and often eaten simply between pieces of bread.

The seasonings vary according to region and local tradition. Rosemary and garlic are strongly associated with Roman and Laziale versions, while wild fennel or fennel seeds are characteristic elsewhere.

Similar traditions are found throughout Italy. In Sardinia, for example, roast suckling pig is known as porceddu or porcheddu and may be flavoured with aromatic myrtle. Lemon zest, rosemary, garlic and fennel are other flavours that marry particularly well with pork.

A celebratory roast

The maialino di latte in these photographs—and another piglet—was cooked by a chef at Libertine, then a French restaurant in North Melbourne. It was one of the courses at a particularly festive farewell lunch for friends who were going overseas for six months. The occasion also marked their twentieth wedding anniversary.

A whole piglet requires a substantial oven. Traditionally, in some rural Italian communities, families could take large roasts to the local baker’s wood-fired oven, particularly on days when the oven was not being used for bread.

Some cooks bone the piglet before roasting, which makes it easier to stuff and later to carve. Stuffings can be elaborate, incorporating minced pork and sometimes offal, or very simple, consisting mainly of herbs, garlic and spices.

For the recipe below, the flavours traditionally associated with porchetta—rosemary, garlic and fennel—are rubbed inside the piglet and into the skin.

Preparing a whole suckling pig… if you are up to it.

Maialino arrosto is not something I cook, but it is a dish I know well. In Australia, whole roast pig or porchetta has also become part of the celebratory table for some Italian families, particularly for Christmas, New Year and other large family gatherings.

If you intend to cook a whole piglet in a domestic oven, there is one very practical consideration: measure your oven before you buy the piglet.

Begin preparations the day before cooking. Leaving the piglet with its aromatic seasoning overnight allows the flavours to penetrate the meat, while keeping the outer skin as dry as possible helps produce good crackling.

Cooking time will depend on the size of the piglet and your oven, so use the timing below as a guide rather than relying on it alone.

Ingredients
  • 1 small suckling pig, cleaned
  • Extra virgin olive oil, approximately 1 cup, for rubbing and basting
  • Dry white wine or water, approximately 2 cups
For the herb mixture
  • About 1 cup fresh rosemary leaves, finely chopped
  • 3–4 tablespoons fennel seeds, lightly crushed
  • 6–10 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
  • A generous amount of salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • ½ cup extra virgin olive oil
Method

Make sure the cavity of the piglet is thoroughly clean and that the organs have been removed.

Combine the rosemary, fennel seeds, garlic, salt, pepper and olive oil to make a fragrant paste.

Make several small slashes in the skin, including over the shoulders and hips. Rub some of the herb mixture into the slashes and spread the remainder generously around the inside cavity.

Place the piglet on a wire rack over a tray and refrigerate overnight, uncovered if practical or loosely covered without trapping moisture against the skin. The drier the skin, the better your chances of achieving crisp crackling.

The following day, remove the piglet from the refrigerator early enough to take some of the chill from it before roasting.

Preheat the oven to 220°C.

Place the piglet belly-down in a lightly oiled roasting pan, positioning the legs close to the body and securing them with kitchen string if necessary. Wrap the ears and tail loosely in foil to prevent them from burning.

Pour about a cup of white wine into the bottom of the roasting pan. Rub the skin with olive oil and season generously with salt.

Roast at 220°C for about 30 minutes, then reduce the oven to 200°C and continue roasting. As a broad guide, allow approximately one hour per kilogram, but the actual cooking time will depend on the size and shape of the piglet and the characteristics of your oven.

Turn the roasting pan every 30 minutes or so to encourage even cooking, but avoid turning the piglet itself. Baste lightly and replenish the wine or water in the bottom of the pan when necessary.

During the final 30 minutes, increase the temperature to 210–220°C to encourage crisp, golden skin. Remove the foil from the ears and tail towards the end so that they can brown without burning.

The pork should be thoroughly cooked and the juices should run clear. For greater certainty, especially with a large whole animal, check the thickest parts with a meat thermometer rather than relying on cooking time alone.

Remove the piglet from the oven and allow it to rest for 20–30 minutes before carving.

Meanwhile, deglaze the roasting pan with a little additional wine or water, scraping up the caramelised juices to make a simple sughetto.

Carve the maialino arrosto and serve with the sughetto.

 

See posts:

In Adelaide I attended a Tasting Australia event called Mondo Di Carne, held at Rosa Matto’s cooking school – Rosa has been the queen of Italian cooking in Adelaide for many years.

Vincenzo Garreffa is a famous butcher from Western Australia and Mondo Di Carne is the name of his business. Vincenzo boned it and stuffed it with three whole pork fillets (it had to be flesh as tender as the piglet), blanched almonds and a few slices of pork liver. Salt, pepper, extra virgin olive oil and rosemary are a must. We all squirmed but we all ate some and enjoyed it.

This is the post:

PORK SALUMI  (smallgoods). Tasting Australia 2010

Also, for a simple recipe:

NOT QUITE PORCHETTA – Rolled belly pork