Castagnaccio is made with chestnut flour. Castagna is the Italian word for chestnut.
Apart from chestnut flour, Castagnaccio, is made with raisins, grated lemon peel, fresh rosemary, extra virgin olive oil, a little sugar, pine nuts and walnuts, mixed with water and made into batter, then baked.
Chestnut flour
The recipe for making castagnaccio is on a blog post I wrote in May 2011 – as you can see I have been making it for a very long time.
I am now using Australian chestnut flour rather than the Italian imported variety and both are quality products.
Steak Tartare is one of those dishes that never completely disappears. Like burrata, bocconcini or sun-dried tomatoes, it falls in and out of fashion, only to return with renewed popularity and a fresh interpretation.
During recent travels through Paris, Venice, Cividale del Friuli, Copenhagen and Malmö, I found Steak Tartare on many menus. Every restaurant prepared it differently. Some versions were elaborate, others beautifully restrained, but each reflected local tastes and traditions.
Some were memorable. One, in particular, was exceptional.
My favourite Steak Tartare, enjoyed at Manfreds in Copenhagen with Danish rye bread and egg mayonnaise
My Father’s Version of Bistecca alla Tartara
Long before Steak Tartare became fashionable again, my father prepared his own bistecca alla tartara.
Rather than finely chopping the beef, he pounded thin slices until almost paper-thin, seasoned them simply with salt, freshly ground black pepper, good extra virgin olive oil and lemon juice, then left them to marinate briefly. The acidity of the lemon gently changed the colour of the meat, giving the appearance of being lightly “cooked”.
It was elegant, uncomplicated and completely delicious.
A Dish with a Colourful History
The origins of Steak Tartare have long been surrounded by stories and legend.
One of the best-known tales links the dish to the Tatars, the nomadic horsemen of Central Asia who travelled across Eastern Europe during the Middle Ages. According to popular tradition, they softened meat beneath their saddles while riding before eating it.
Although historians generally regard this story as folklore rather than documented fact, the association remains part of the mythology surrounding the dish and has helped shape its enduring name.
Today’s Steak Tartare evolved much later in European cuisine, particularly in France, where finely chopped raw beef became a classic bistro dish. It is either served with some condiments or the condiments are mixed with the meat before it is presented.
Fresh condiments served separately allow each diner to season the tartare to their own taste.
Endless Variations Across Europe
Fresh condiments served separately allow each diner to season the tartare to their own taste.
Every country—and often every chef—seems to have a different interpretation.
Popular condiments vary but the most common are finely chopped parsley and onion, capers, mustard, olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper and egg yolks.
The classic version usually consists of finely chopped beef mixed with or accompanied by combinations of:
egg yolk
Dijon mustard
capers
finely chopped onion or shallots
parsley
cornichons
Worcestershire sauce
Tabasco
anchovies
lemon juice
extra virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
The balance between these ingredients varies enormously.
Some chefs mix everything together before serving; others allow diners to season the meat themselves.
My Favourite Way
My preference remains the simplest.
Good quality beef needs very little embellishment.
I season it with:
extra virgin olive oil
freshly squeezed lemon juice
salt
black pepper
one egg yolk mixed through
Then I place another fresh egg yolk on top and serve a few condiments alongside so each person can add as much—or as little—as they like.
The flavour of excellent beef should always remain the star.
Choosing the Beef
Only the freshest, highest-quality beef should be used.
Eye fillet (beef tenderloin) is my preferred cut because it is lean, tender and beautifully flavoured.
Ask your butcher to cut it fresh on the day you intend to serve it.
Ingredients
Serves 4
500 g beef eye fillet (or other premium fillet)
2 fresh egg yolks
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
juice of ½ lemon
sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
Optional additions:
Dijon mustard
finely chopped anchovies
capers
chopped onion or shallots
chopped parsley
cornichons
Worcestershire sauce
Tabasco
To serve:
toasted rye bread
rye crispbread
French fries
warm crusty bread
Method
Remove every trace of fat and sinew from the beef.
Using a very sharp knife, slice the meat thinly with the grain. Cut the slices into fine strips, then cut across again until the beef reaches your preferred texture. Some people enjoy a very fine mince; others prefer slightly larger pieces.
Keep the meat refrigerated while preparing the dressing.
Whisk together one egg yolk, olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper.
Fold the dressing gently through the beef. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.
If using additional flavourings such as mustard, anchovies or capers, add them sparingly so they complement rather than overpower the beef.
Divide the mixture onto chilled plates, shaping it into neat rounds.
Make a small indentation in the centre of each and carefully place the remaining egg yolk on top.
Serve immediately with your preferred accompaniments.
Raw beef quickly loses its vibrant colour, so Steak Tartare is always at its best freshly prepared.
Steak Tartare Around Europe
One of the pleasures of travelling is seeing how the same dish changes from place to place.
In Paris, Steak Tartare arrived with crisp golden French fries.
In Venice, it was served with toasted croutons.
In Malmö, the dish was accompanied by sour cream.
In Malmö, the dish was accompanied by sour cream.In Cividale del Friuli it came with hot bread in a paper bag and curls of butter
In Cividale del Friuli, close to the Slovenian border, the tartare reflected local influences. It arrived with warm bread in a paper bag, curls of butter and a noticeable touch of chilli—prepared alla Slovena. It also included a mustard fruit (mostarda di frutta), very popular in Italy with boiled meats.
Sometimes simplicity really is perfection.
A Memorable Meal at Manfreds, Copenhagen
Among all the versions I tasted, the one served at Manfreds in Copenhagen stood out.
Manfreds focuses on everyday food, which is aided by modern techniques and raw materials of the highest quality.
The restaurant has built its reputation on exceptional seasonal produce and understated cooking. Biodynamic vegetables, carefully sourced meats and natural wines define its philosophy, allowing outstanding ingredients to speak for themselves.
That same respect for quality was evident in their Steak Tartare—simple, beautifully balanced and unforgettable.
At Manfreds the wine is natural wine, which has made the restaurant Copenhagen’s first natural wine bar.
Burrata, mozzarella and stracciatella are among Italy’s culinary pleasures. These fresh cheese are simple and beautifully made, proving that outstanding ingredients need very little to please.
Whenever I travel through Italy, I make the most of every opportunity to eat these fresh cheeses.
During a recent visit to Venice and Trieste I enjoyed as much mozzarella, burrata and stracciatella as I could, accompanied by magnificent summer tomatoes that were at their seasonal best.
Fortunately, we now have those fresh cheeses in Australia, but maybe some makers are not as good as they could be.
Three Fresh Cheeses, Three Different Experiences
Fresh mozzarella, whether made from cow’s milk (fior di latte) or buffalo milk (mozzarella di bufala), has become widely available outside Italy. Burrata, however, remained relatively unknown for many years, although it has now become one of the most sought-after cheeses on restaurant menus around the world.
The reason is easy to understand. Burrata offers the delicate freshness of mozzarella with an indulgent creamy centre that transforms even the simplest dish into something memorable.
What is Stracciatella?
Stracciatella is the luscious filling found inside traditional burrata. It is made by combining finely shredded strands of fresh mozzarella with rich cream, creating a soft, almost spoonable cheese.
Its name comes from the Italian verb stracciare, meaning “to tear” or “to shred,” referring to the torn strands of mozzarella curd that are folded through the cream.
It is delicious served on its own with crusty bread, but inside burrata it becomes something even more irresistible.
Burrata: Puglia’s Creamy TreaT
Burrata originates in Puglia, the region of southern Italy famous for its olive groves, beautiful coastline and handmade orecchiette pasta.
The outer shell is made from stretched mozzarella curd, while the centre is filled with creamy stracciatella. As soon as you cut through the delicate casing, the creamy filling gently spills onto the plate.
It is one of those foods that never fails to impress.
The name burrata comes from burro—the Italian word for butter—a reference to its rich, buttery texture. Traditionally, some versions were filled with fresh cream rather than stracciatella, making the connection even more obvious.
Freshness Matters
Like all fresh cheeses, burrata is best eaten as soon as possible after it is made—ideally within 24 hours.
It is usually sold immersed in lightly salted whey or water, which helps preserve its freshness and delicate texture. Unlike aged cheeses, burrata is all about freshness, softness and clean dairy flavours.
Two traditional styles of burrata—the classic round burrata and the hand-tied version, both filled with creamy stracciatella.
Burrata with knot on top
Both burrate delicious and both enveloping the creamy filling.
Burrata with a sealed sphereHeirloom tomatoesHeirloom tomatoes
Burrata and Tomato Salad
When beautiful tomatoes are in season, burrata needs almost nothing else.
Combine ripe heirloom tomatoes with sweet cherry tomatoes, fragrant basil leaves, a drizzle of exceptional extra virgin olive oil and perhaps a few slices of mild red onion. Finish with flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.
The combination is extraordinary: the sweetness and gentle acidity of the tomatoes, the perfume of basil, the richness of the creamy cheese and the peppery fruitiness of the olive oil create perfect balance.
An Italian Meal in Paris
I purchased ingredients and assembled this salad in Paris.
Burrata salad I made in Paris
The tomatoes, basil and red onion came from markets around the Mediterranean, while the burrata itself was Italian.
Italian Burrata bought in Paris
It was a reminder that wonderful cooking is often less about complicated recipes and more about choosing excellent ingredients and allowing each one to speak for itself.
Sometimes the simplest meals are the most memorable.
the friends made it for expressed that the mild acidity of tomatoes, basil, super-duper good quality extra virgin olive oil was ecstasy.
Out with the old marinade of vinegar, sunflower oil, tired sliced garlic and herbs.
And in with the new marinade – extra virgin olive oil, fresh parsley, garlic and a little dry oregano (optional).
Sounds better already. New life, fresh taste!
These are handy to have in the fridge to dip into at anytime, or to present as an antipasto on fresh bread or crostini , or inside a leaf from the centre of a small cos lettuce or radicchio or witlof – in fact any salad green that has cone shaped head and cup shaped leaves that can hold a few marinaded anchovies.
The pictures tell the story. Simple to make, good to eat.
Leave in marinade at least one day but as long as you keep them under oil they will last for a couple of weeks in the fridge.
I used :
500g of white marinaded anchovies ( alici fresche marinate are usually packed in Sicily or Liguria… and the Spaniards call them boquerones),
2-3 cloves of garlic ½ cup chopped parsley, both finely chopped.
extra virgin olive oil to cover – the amount will depend of the container you use. I always use glass.
Drain the anchovies and discard the old marinade and the solids.
Layer the anchovies with the herbs and the garlic and top with the oil.
Store in the fridge until ready to use. If you are taking some anchovies out, make sure to once again cover them with oil.
If you are presenting the anchovies inside leaves use a colander to drain the anchovies and then place 1-3 inside each leaf- this will depend on the size of the leaf and how much you (or your guests) like anchovies.
If you are presenting them on bread, there is no need to drain them with a colander – the oil tastes good too.
As you can see, finding small suitable leaves and keeping them whole can be time consuming.
They have remained as one of my favourite things to do for a large gathering. The recipe is also in my second book Small Fishy Bites as Zucchini and Mint Fritters with Marinaded Anchovies.
Mataroccu is made with ripe tomatoes, fresh basil, garlic, extra virgin olive oil and almonds.
At this time of year basil is plentiful and many of us enjoy pasta with pesto, so it is time to revisit a post I first wrote in February, 2009 about the Sicilian pesto called Mataroccu (and also Ammogghia in some parts of Sicily).
It is made with ripe tomatoes, fresh basil, garlic, extra virgin olive oil and almonds.
The name pesto comes from the word for pestle or to pound , emphasising the traditional method of pounding these ingredients together to create a sauce that’s rich and sweet; it eliminates the grassy flavours that often result from a food processor.T
While most people are familiar with the classic Ligurian pesto—made with Genoese basil, pine nuts, garlic, and a blend of Parmigiano and Pecorino Sardo or Toscano. Both of these regional cheeses are sweeter in taste than the other from different regions.
Pecorino is made from sheep’s’ milk – the word pecora is Italian for sheep.
Pecorino Sardo: Mild and nutty, semi-hard.
Pecorino Romano: Sharp and salty, hard; perfect for grating.
Pecorino Toscano: Creamy and slightly sweet, semi-soft to hard.
Pecorino Siciliano: Rich and robust, hard; great for grating and traditional dishes.
Ligurians are passionate about their pesto, insisting that only basil from their sun-drenched region will do.
In contrast, Sicily offers its own unique taste and locality highlighting the best of summer’s harvest, where both basil and tomatoes thrive. Almonds, also native to Sicily, add a distinctive touch to this sauce. Mataroccu can be enjoyed tossed with pasta or drizzled over grilled vegetables.
As expected there are some slight different regional versions and name of the same pistu – (Sicilian word for pesto).
Pesto Pantesco hails from the island of Pantelleria, just southwest of Sicily. This version may use capers and sun-dried tomatoes. The incorporation of local ingredients gives Pesto Pantesco a distinctive taste that reflects the island’s rich culinary heritage.
In Trapani, there’s an interesting twist: while Mataroccu typically uses almonds, some locals prefer pine nuts rather than almonds; the pine nuts impart a creamier consistency and a subtly more nutty taste, than almonds.
When it comes to making Mataroccu as in most Sicilian recipes, there’s no need for precision; I never weigh my ingredients. Instead, aim for a balanced sauce that lightly coats your high-quality durum wheat pasta, without overwhelming it. I prefer short pasta shapes for this dish.
As I may have written at other times, in Australia we tend to overdress our pasta – the pesto should coat the pasta, but not overpower the taste.
INGREDIENTS
almonds or pine nuts, 1 cup
garlic, 8-10 cloves,
ripe tomatoes, 400g, peeled, seeded, and chopped
basil, 1 ½ cups loose leaves
parsley ½ cup, cut finely (optional)
extra virgin olive oil (your most fragrant), about 1 cup or as much as the pesto absorbs
salt, and red pepper flakes to taste
PREPARATION
In a mortar, pound the garlic with a pinch of salt until it forms a paste (you want it smooth, yet with some texture).
Gradually add a portion of the tomatoes, herbs, and a splash of olive oil, continuing to pound until combined.
Slowly incorporate the remaining ingredients until you achieve a smooth, homogeneous sauce.
Pecorino Siciliano is a good addition at time of serving, but I really appreciate the fresh taste, and although I may add it to the table at the time of serving, I don’t add it. Ricotta can also be placed on the table in time of serving, but is not very common in Sicily.
For those who prefer modern convenience, a food processor works wonders. Simply grind the nuts first, then blend in the other ingredients gradually until creamy.
Just recently one of my Adelaide friends made a salsa verde to accompany some lightly roasted sirloin and roasted vegetables. Most enjoyable.
Making salsa verde was one of my tasks as a teenager in the family kitchen.
There always seemed to be some salsa verde in our fridge; it was used specifically as a condiment for our frequent serves of pesce lesso, (poached or steamed fish) and bollito (boiled meat). Broth (and hence boiled meat) was a weekly affair. Traditionally it was intended to accompany plain tasting, boiled food.
I was very surprised that I have not included a recipe for salsa verde on my blog as I make it often.
I have never measured or weighed ingredients when making sauces, but these estimations seem to produce what I am after. Allow this salsa to rest for at least an hour so that the flavours become better balanced.
Traditionally the consistency of the sauce is semi liquid, especially if you wish to pour it over fish or meat. However, by adding larger amounts of solid ingredients, this sauce can be presented as a large blob on the side of the meat or fish.
To serve the salsa verde with fish, I sometimes use lemon juice instead of vinegar. In latter years I also started to add grated lemon peel.
Recipes evolve and over time, especially in other parts of the world where salsa verde has been become popular and different herbs have been added. For example I have noticed that mint or tarragon or oregano or rocket have snuck in. These herbs are not common in the traditional Italian recipe that originated in the north of Italy but has spread all over Italy. In Sicilian it is called sarsa virdi .
Salsa verde can be used to jazz anything up – vegetables, roasts, cold meats, smoked fish, crayfish etc. I sometimes use it to stuff hard boiled eggs (remove the yolk, mix with salsa verde and return it to the egg).
I had someone ask me recently about using it with left over Christmas turkey. Why not?
INGREDIENTS
parsley, 1 cup cut finely,
wine vinegar, 1 ½ tablespoonful
anchovies, 3-4 cut finely
capers, ½ cup, if the salted variety, rinse, soak to remove salt
extra virgin olive oil, ¾ cup
freshbread, the white part of 1 slice
egg, 1, hard boiled, chopped finely
garlic, 2 cloves chopped
green olives, chopped, ½ cup
Soak the bread briefly in 1 tablespoon of the vinegar and squeeze dry.
Combine all of the ingredients and stir them gently together in a wide mouthed jar or jug.
The anchovies generally provide sufficient salt, but taste the sauce and season to taste.
Variations
When I lived in my parent’s house a little of the mixed garden pickles (called sotto aceti or giardiniera) was a must. Select a couple of small pieces of the white root (turnip) or green (small gherkins). Omit the ½ tablespoon of vinegar.
This is the type of sauce where you can vary the ingredients. Add different amounts of ingredients – more or less anchovies or capers.
Tomatoes usually fail to ripen at the end of the season (in autumn) and usually Southern Italians wait till then to preserve green tomatoes. However if you can spare a few, pick some unripe tomatoes (or buy them as I did at the Queen Victoria Market) and make this pickle.
It is very convenient to have this – to eat plain with bread or as an accompaniment to cold meats or cheese.
The photos tell the story.
You need green tomatoes.
Wash, dry and slice into thick slices.
Put them in a large colander, and sprinkle with salt….generous amounts.
Leave to drain for 24 hours.
Squeeze them and put them into a bowl and cover them with a mixture made of 1 part vinegar to 1 part water. Make sure that they are covered and put a weight on top. Leave at least 6- 8 hours.
Drain, and squeeze as dry as you can.
Place the tomatoes into sterilized jars and mix with olive oil (I use extra virgin olive oil), garlic slivers, dried fennel seeds and oregano (add chili flakes if you wish). Make sure they are well covered with oil and keep submerged – I save those plastic rings that keep pickles submerged that are often found in Italian pickles; there is one in the photo above.
Keep in fridge; they are ready to eat in a few days and will keep for months. Make sure that when you remove some of the pickle to eat, the remainder is always covered with oil.
They can be stored in a pantry, but omit the garlic if you do this, as it tends to go off.
Eggplants can be pickled by using the same process.
Castagnaccio is made with chestnut flour – an ingredient that is easily obtained from stores that sell a large range of Italian produce.
Castagnaccio is a rustic Tuscan dish – it is neither bread not cake and it is eaten as a snack at any time of day. I first ate castagnaccio many years ago when I ventured out of my base in Florence to nearby Pisa, Gubbio and Assissi. It was a particularly cold and wet time of year and in bars I visited in the three locations I consumed slices of panforte and castagnaccio – my excuse was that I was interested to compare how different these tasted in each bar. I remember that I accompanied these Tuscan specialities with cups of thick, hot chocolate and took the opportunity to sample the local amari (liquers- digestives) at the same time.
Chestnut flour is not uncommon; it has been/is still used to make bread and pasta in various parts of Italy, and in fact I ate some excellent bread made with chestnut flour last time I visited Calabria. In Adelaide and in Melbourne I have purchased chestnut flour that has been packed by different Italian companies – most have a recipe for castagnaccio on the packet and as we all know there can be many variations for the same recipe in all Italian cuisine .
The recipe is easy and is like making a pancake mixture – it should be as smooth and be as thick (raw mixture above). I do not always add sugar because the raisins and the flour provide some sweetness. Rather than soaking the raisins or good quality sultanas in water I soak them in marsala or port.
INGREDIENTS
chestnut flour, 250 g
water, 2 cups and perhaps a little more
sugar, 1-2 tbsp
pine nuts,100 g
raisins,100 g (pre-softened in a little water)
walnuts, 50 g
rosemary, fresh, sprigs
extra virgin olive oil, 2 tbs for the mixture and an extra tablespoon to sprinkle on top at the end of cooking on top
salt, a pinch
lemon peel, 2 tablespoons grated (optional)
cinnamon, 1 teaspoon (optional)
PROCESSES
Mix the chestnut flour with a little water. Add the salt and sugar and more water. Do this gradually to form a smooth paste (I begin with a spoon and continue with a whisk and a spoon).
Add 2 tbs olive oil. Mix until smooth.
Add to it the lemon peel, cinnamon and raisins and half of the pine nuts and walnuts.
Pour mixture into a large oven pan into which you have poured about 2 tbs of olive oil (the mixture should not be more than 2cm high). Spread it evenly.
Sprinkle with the rest of the pine nuts and walnuts and the rosemary leaves.
Sprinkle onto the top about 1 tablespoons of olive oil.
Place into a pre- warmed oven (180C). Cook until a thin crust forms on top and there are cracks throughout the surface (about 30-40 minutes). The inside should be soft and moist.
When I take the castagnaccio out of the oven, I like to sprinkle a few drops of sweet wine (late picked, dessert wine) on top – the crust will soften slightly , but the aroma and flavours will be worth it.
Eat warm. A bit of whipped cream on top does turn it into a very pleasant dessert.
There are other versions made with fresh chestnuts, but they have to be boiled first, removed from their shells, mashed and then combined with the ingredients in the recipe – I cannot see how it can taste the same.
ALL ABOUT CHESTNUT FLOUR
July 2012
Just recently I bought some chestnut flour made from 100% Australian chestnuts.
The local flour is a little darker, seems to absorb much more liquid and tastes sweeter than the imported flour.
It comes in 250gm packets, is freeze dried but is more than twice the price. The 500g packets of Italian imported flour does not contain information about how the flour is made.
Whatever flour you purchase, make a smooth and thick batter and you should be able to pour it into the baking tin.
Mercato in Campbelltown South Australia and Enoteca Sileno sell Cheznuts Australian Chestnut flour.
This flour is made from Australian grown organic chestnuts which have been dried in the traditional Italian way using very low heat over many days. Drying nuts in-shell imparts a nutty roasted chestnut flavour and makes the nuts sweet and delicious. The dried nuts are then peeled and milled to produce a fine flour that is full of flavour. Chestnut flour is gluten free.
I opened a small bottle of extra virgin olive oil, which I recently purchased, and it tasted very bitter – very disappointing. Nor can you tell from its colour (photo of three samples of extra virgin olive oils in my pantry), and this is the point, you can never ascertain how good it is going to be until you taste it.
I also find that there is confusion about types of olive oil. For example many of those people who buy ‘light’ oil think that this oil is lighter in calories – this is not the case.
Olive oil is essentially a fruit juice and like any good fruit juice, it tastes best when it’s fresh and the fruit is ripe and in good condition.
Unlike wine, olive oil doesn’t really mature or improve with age, although a couple of months after it’s been pressed and bottled, the oil may “open up”, drop its veil of sediment and become a little more aromatic.
The other important thing to remember about olive oil is that while it can be called a juice it is also a fat and will oxidise if it is exposed to too much heat, air and sunlight. Oxidised oil tastes rancid, so it is best to keep your oils in a cool, dark place.
Olive oils differ in quality, colour, flavour and aroma.I use olive oil for all my cooking and lots of it, but I don’t use expensive, high quality oil for frying or cooking, because the flavours of the ingredients would overpower the taste and fragrance of the oil. Rather I choose different oils for different purposes, saving my best oils to complement the flavours of ingredients, especially those I serve raw, so the taste of the oil can be appreciated.
In all my recipes I always use extra virgin olive oil.
Looking beyond the obvious sexual allusions, the description of an olive oil as “pure”, “virgin” and “extra virgin” really does raise the question about which oils are which?
In simple terms extra virgin olive oil is the finest and fruitiest of oils. In recent years the objective qualities for grading olive oil have been developed by the International Olive Oil Commission (IOOC)
According to the IOOC criteria, to be classified as extra virgin, an oil has to be free of impurities, with no flaws in flavour or aroma, and be produced at temperatures below 28 degrees Celsius. Extra virgin the oil must also have a free fatty acid content below 1 per cent.
Why are temperature and acidity important? Both are indicators of quality. A low percentage of free fatty acid is a sign that the oil comes from sound, fresh, ripe fruit. Extracting oil at higher temperatures, accelerates the breakdown of the beneficial anti-oxidant compounds in the oil, reducing the oils natural protection against oxidation. Higher temperatures also evaporate some of the more volatile aromatic flavours of the oil, robbing it of its more complex and subtle fragrances.
Virgin olive is next in the rankings. This oil must also be free of flaws in flavour and aroma, but has a higher free fatty acid content of between 1 and 2 percent.
Pure olive oil rates lowest, although it should still have an acceptable flavour and aroma without flaws and an oleic acidity below 3.3 percent.
But rather than being produced by a centrifuge or a pressing method, pure olive oil is more likely to have been produced by the treating the oil with solvents such as caustic soda through a process known as “”, which in effect turns the oil into soap before it is dissolved, distilled and re-constituted which involves extremely high temperatures.
These days, especially in Australia and increasingly in Europe, olive oil is being produced and marketed in accordance with standards set down by the IOOC.
The IOOC is also a vigorous advocate of truth in labelling.
Most virgin and extra virgin olive oils are also labelled on the bottle as “first, cold pressed”.
The way most oils, and that includes quality extra virgin oils, are produced these days, “first, cold pressed” is a meaningless marketing phrase, that harks back to another time when olives were crushed to a paste that was then spread on mats which were stacked in layers and pressed.
Under that system, after the pressing had produced as much oil as possible, the paste and mats were doused in hot water to release any oil still in the paste and extract the very last of the drops from a second or even a third pressing.
These days, such a method is too labour intensive and too slow for commercial olive oil production. Now producers tend to rely on continuous centrifugal extraction machines where the olives are poured in one end, milled to a paste, pressed under centrifugal force, and then separated into oil and water, leaving a dried pulp to be disposed of later.
The temperature of these continuous presses can be regulated easily and the best results are obtained at around 28 degrees celsius, a comfortable room temperature, that is anything but cold, but promotes oil flow and doesn’t evaporate the aromatic flavours of the oil.
My advice is to always put a new oil to the taste test. It should certainly not taste rancid, metallic or have a slack, fatty flavour. A good oil should be fruity and balanced, with a hint of peppery bite on the back of the throat.
The bulk of the oil I buy is in 3 or 4 litre tins and it is labelled Extra Virgin Olive Oil. I use this oil every day in all my cooking, to braise, bake, fry, marinate, and sauté; for preserving and pickling, and even to oil my baking tins. This is the oil I use when I don’t want the flavour to dominate the other ingredients.
I also buy a variety of qualityextra virgin olive oils that come in bottles. These oils are much more expensive than the oil I buy in bulk tins. A fine 375ml bottle may cost as much as or more than a 4 litre tin, because the flavour is stronger and fruitier and greater care may have been taken with picking and processing the fruit. These are my best oils. I save these for salads and other cold dishes or to trickle over bread or hot dishes just before serving so the rich flavour can be fully appreciated.
There is so much good olive oil now produced in Australia.
If you live in the Southern hemisphere (as I do in Melbourne, Australia,) you may have noticed small artichokes for sale. Carciofi is the word for the normal sized artichokes and carciofini are the small ones. Carciofini are also the baby artichokes that never develop to full size and grow at the end of the plant’s growing season (photo of carciofi spinosi taken at Palermo Market)
These small artichokes (that never develop to full size) are considered too small to cook and are customarily preserved in oil and eaten in the non-artichoke season. I realize that this may be difficult for some of us to imagine because we appear to be able to purchase artichokes, asparagus and tomatoes all year round in Australia, but being Italian and having been brought up with respecting and celebrating local, seasonal produce, I go without. (I ask myself how far away some of this produce is coming from and how long ago was it picked.)
The carciofini are first poached and then preserved under oil. Usually I only preserve very small quantities (they get eaten very quickly), but for each kilo of artichokes,
INGREDIENTS
small artichokes, 1 kilo
acidulated water – 2 lemons
For the poaching liquid
I use 4 cups of white wine vinegar, a cup of white wine and about one teaspoon of salt for the poaching liquid. They need to poach in sufficient liquid otherwise the bitter taste becomes concentrated and they could be unpleasant.
For the oil mixture:
Sufficient extra virgin oil to cover the artichokes and
1 tablespoon of whole black pepper corns, 5 bay leaves and about a tablespoon of dry oregano.
PROCESSES
Use artichokes that look closed and firm (when the leaves start to open, the choke has started to develop and this can happen even to small artichokes if they have been left on the plant too long).
Strip back the leaves (you just want the tender heart) and kept them whole. Soak them in the water and lemon to stop them from browning.
Drain the artichokes and leave them upside down while you make up the vinegar/wine mixture. Use a stainless steel saucepan with a lid (to cover the artichokes as they cook).
Place the artichokes in the boiling mixture, cover and poach them gently in the mixture until cooked but not soft – still firm in the centre, but the outer leaves should have softened. The time for cooking varies (my last batch took 12 minutes).
Drain them of as much vinegar as possible and when cool pack them carefully into sterilised glass jars, pressing them down gently and trying to prevent as many gaps as possible. (Rather than a large jar I use smaller sized jars so as to minimise possible spoilage once opened).
Add flavours and cover with oil. To allow any trapped air to escape leave them for about 3 hours before sealing. During the resting time the level of the oil may be reduced, top with more oil and ensure they are well covered (some use an inverted small saucer on top as a weight to help keep the artichokes submerged but make sure that you sterilise the saucer).
Seal the jars and allow them to steep in the oil for at least 10 days before you eat them. Because I make small quantities and live in an apartment with little storage space, I keep them in my fridge, but they can be stored in a cool, dark place for about 6 months.
I never add fresh herbs or garlic to any preserves, as these are likely to go off, release gas and spoil the whole preserve.
When ready to use, remove the quantity of artichokes from the jar, drain them of some of the oil, add garlic slices and finely chopped parsley and a dash of lemon juice.
After each jar is opened, it is best to use the artichokes quickly. Add extra oil to the remaining artichokes to keep the contents submerged.I always keep opened jars in the fridge.
