My partner who does the shopping came home with these artichokes from the Queen Victoria Market.
They were pretty big specimens and nearing the end of aritchoke growing season (when they turn woody and their fibrous chokes develop), but not having eaten artichokes for quite a while, I was excited about them.
They did prove to be quite fibrous – vecchi – Italians would say, but I did clean them as best I could, removing most of the outer leaves and really digging in to remove their chokes. I also cut more of the tops off than I usually do with younger artichokes. Although the stems were long, once I stripped off the outer fibre, I was only able to use very little of them.
Really, I should have taken off all the leaves and used only the base – fondi – Italians call them.
Artichokes can be cooked in many ways and you will find several recipes on my blog, but I particularly like them stuffed. The stuffing was easy – day old breadcrumbs, garlic, grated pecorino, parsley and a good amount of extra virgin olive oil.
Last of all, I added some toasted pinenuts and some grated lemon peel to the stuffing.
And then I stuffed the artichokes.
These are ready to cook. They are nearly submeged in stock, white wine, extra virgin olive oil and a little salt. I always add fresh bayleaves, but this time I also added thyme.
Cover and braise slowly.
And they did cook for much longer than I usually cook artichokes. After about 60 mins of cooking on a slow flame, I added chunks of potatoes and when the potatoes were nearly cooked (about 20 mins) , I added broadbeans and peas (Spring vegetables) and all cooked a further 10 – 15 minutes.
Like most Italians, I rarely do the cooking at the last minute. With braised dishes the flavours need to develop, and resting is a good thing. I cooked these in the afternoon, ready for the evening. This also gave me time to concentrate on accompanying food.
Where would we be without seasonal broadbeans!! My partner even double peeled them, something that I refuse to do.
In spite of all my fears, we chewed on the ends of the leaves and the bases (the fondi) just melted in our mouths…. They tasted pretty heavenly.
Melbourne residents who have been in COVID lockdowns are now able to catch up under limited circumstances with friends.
Restrictions have been lifted:
Social gatherings are permitted outdoors between two people from a maximum of two households. Up to five people can socialise outdoors (excluding dependants), from two households, if every person over 18 years is fully vaccinated.
So that is what 4 of us did!
It is spring, and although the weather has been unpredictable it was a sunny day.
We ate well. The two households shared different things – Vitello Tonnato, Fior Di Latte (fresh mozzarella), Jamón. fennel withTapenade, home baked bread, a green salad (nasturtium leaves, herbs, frisée lettuce and other green leaves) and a frittata with artichokes and asparagus.
I often make frittata for various occasions. Frittate (plural) are easy and laudable for all occasions – passed around at a celebration, breakfast, lunch , starter or dinner: they are extremely portable, excellent as a filling between bread or a picnic A frittata can be eaten hot, warm or cold. You can begin with raw or cooked ingredients and frittate are ideal for using cooked leftovers. I prefer frittate made of vegetables, but adding cooked meat or fish, smallgoods, cheese, cooked pasta or potatoes will make them more substantial.
On this occasion I wanted to celebrate spring produce and I used asparagus and artichokes.
I could have added other spring vegetables: new peas, broad beans, green beans, snow peas, zucchini and their flowers, but I did not. I kept it simple.
It is very common to add a little grated parmesan to a vegetable frittata, but one friend is allergic to diary produce so I did not use any on this occasion. This frittata minus a little cheese did not suffer and if anything, the individual tastes of the two vegetables was more distinct.
I sautéed my vegetables and cooked them separately. This makes the frittata tastier. The cooked, cooled ingredients are then added to the beaten eggs.
Ingredients: 8 eggs. 600g asparagus, 2 spring onions sliced thinly, 2 young artichokes, chopped parsley, salt and pepper, 1 clove of chopped garlic, extra virgin olive oil, white wine and a little stock. A bowl with water and the juice of 1-2 lemon is necessary to immerse the artichokes as you work to prevent the artichokes from discolouring.
Use the same frypan to sauté the vegetables and the frittata.
The artichokes will take the longest to prepare. For the artichokes:
Remove the stems, strip off the rough fibrous outer and immerse them to a bowl with water and lemon.
Remove the tough outer leaves until you reach the softer and paler heart of the artichokes. cut the tip off each of the artichokes (on the tip of each leaf there is a thorn). Some types of artichokes can have large thorns!
Cut the artichokes in half and remove the internal beard with the help of a knife or a spoon, (looks like fluff). Cut the artichokes into thin slices and immerse them in water and lemon.
Drain the artichokes well when you are ready to cook them.
Heat some extra virgin olive oil, add garlic and as soon as the garlic begins to fry, add the artichokes and sauté on high heat.
Add a splash of white wine and evaporate. Add the parsley and a splash of stock (or water), cover with a lid and allow to cook. Set aside to cool.
Asparagus come in various shapes, colours and sizes.
For the asparagus:
Remove the woody part of the stem and cut the bottom part of the asparagus into slices. Cut the top part into larger pieces – the top half of the asparagus is generally more tender. Sauté the spring onions in a little extra virgin olive oil, add the asparagus, a pinch of salt, toss them about in the hot pan, add 1-2 tablespoons of water and cook for a couple of minutes. Leave the asparagus slightly crunchy and set aside.
Place the eggs into a large bowl, add a pinch of salt and freshly ground pepper. Beat vigorously with a fork until the egg mixture is homogeneous.
Add the cooked artichokes and asparagus to the eggs and mix well.
Heat some extra virgin olive oil in the same frypan and when the oil is hot, pour the mixture into the frypan and cook over medium heat.
Use the spatula to press the frittata and to lift the edges so as to encourage even cooking.
Turn the frittata when it is ready to flip.
**For more detailed instructions and photos of how to handle cooking and flipping a frittata see:
I wrapped my frittata in some foil and then a tea towel . we did not travel far and we ate it warm. You can also transport it in the frypan. covered with foil.
‘Artichokes’ is the topic of Richard Cornish’s regular column. (September 21, Brain Food in The Age). His commentary has certainly provided me with an excess amount of food for thought – artichokes are one of my very favourite vegetables and I have written many recipes for artichokes on my blog.
Artichokes in Acireale Sicily
I have included some recipes in this post and more can be found on my blog.
In Italian artichokes are called carciofi, in Sicilian they are cacocciuli.
As Richard says, artichokes are thought to have originated from Sicily, and therefore Sicilians have had plenty of time to appreciate their versatility and have come up with some excellent recipes for artichokes cooked in many interesting ways.
This is not to say that the other regions of Italy don’t have their own local recipes for artichokes, but Sicilians seem to have the lot.
Versitility:
Artichokes in Italy are eaten as appetizers, contorni (sides), first and second courses, and stand-alone dishes.
Artichokes can be stuffed with a wide variety of fillings, fried whole or sliced, and crumbed before being fried, sautéed, boiled, baked, braised and stewed, roasted in ashes, used in frittate (plural of frittata), pasta and risotti (plural of risotto).
When they are young, they are sliced thinly and eaten raw in salads. They are canned commercially and, at the end of plant’s life, the last of the artichokes that will never mature, but will stay small and underdeveloped, are conserved, mostly in olive oil. When they are old, they are stripped of all the leaves and the bases are eaten.
You may be familiar with Cynar, one of the many Italian bitter, alcoholic drinks (of the Amaro variety) and made predominantly with artichokes. Below is some information.
It is spring in Australia now and the very best time to celebrate artichokes when they can be combined with other spring produce such as broad beans, peas, asparagus and potatoes.
A couple of recipes in my blog make a special feature of spring flavours:
In his Brain Food column about artichokes Richard says that artichokes contain a compound called cynarin which inhibits your tongue’s ability to detect sweetness. You don’t notice it until you have a bite or a drink of something else: the cynarin gets washed off the tongue, and suddenly, your brain tells you that what you have in your mouth is sweet, even when it is not!
Hence Cynar, one of the many Italian bitter alcoholic drinks (of the amaro variety) and made predominantly with artichokes. Cynar is classed as a digestive and it is said to have stomach-soothing qualities and cleansing and restorative properties for the liver. It can be drunk as an apéritif or after dinner drink.
Richard mentions how Richard Purdue, executive chef at Margaret in Sydney’s Double Bay, beams when the word artichoke is mentioned. ‘‘One of my favourite dishes is one I picked up in Sicily, where the artichokes are cooked in a kind of caponata – tomatoes, celery, pine nuts, currants, red wine and sugar.’’ So to finish off here is a recipe adapted from my book, Sicilian Seafood Cooking for a caponata made with artichokes.
In recipe in my book, Sicilian Seafood Cooking, I suggest using 9 -10 artichokes and it is intended for 6 -8 people.
Caponata di Carciofi (Artichoke Caponata) can only be made with young artichokes. It is also worth noting that you will need to remove the outer leaves and only use the tender centre, therefore reducing the amount of artichokes significantly.
CAPUNATA DI CARCIOFFULI – Caponata Di Carciofi (Artichoke caponata)
Sauté each of the vegetable ingredients separately as is the traditional method of making caponata (as in a well-made, French dish Ratatouille). Frying the vegetables together does save time, but the colours and the flavours will not be as distinct. However, I have provided this method as a variation (see bottom of this recipe).
Remove the outer, tougher leaves of the artichokes by bending them back and snapping them off the base until you come to the softer, paler leaves.
Prepare artichokes for sautéing. The artichokes need to be sliced thinly and vertically into bite size pieces. Keep them in acidulated water as you work. The cleaned stalk is one of my favourite parts of the artichoke and will add flavour to the caponata. Trim the stalk with a small sharp knife to pull away the tough, stringy outer skin (just like the strings of celery) and leave the stem attached to the artichoke. This will expose the light-coloured, centre portion, which is very flavourful and tender and much appreciated by Italians.
Drain the artichokes from the acidulated water and squeeze dry (I use a clean tea towel).
Select a large, shallow, saucepan to sauté the artichokes. They should not be crowded and if you do not have a large enough pan, sauté them in batches – you want to create as little liquid as possible.
Place some of the extra virgin olive oil in the pan and sauté the artichokes on low heat until they are tender. This may take up to 10 minutes or more depending on the freshness and age of the artichokes (add a little water or white wine if the ingredients are drying out).
Remove the artichokes and set aside.
Add a little more, extra virgin olive oil to the pan (and/or you may be able to drain some from the sautéed artichokes) and sauté the other vegetables in the same pan, separately. Proceed as follows:
Sauté the onion until it begins to colour, remove from the pan and add to the artichokes.
Add a little more extra virgin olive oil and sauté the celery.
Add the olives, capers, salt and tomatoes to the celery. Simmer gently for about 5-7 minutes. Add a little water if needed (this mixture should have the consistency of a thick sauce.)
Remove the mixture from the pan and add it to the sautéed artichokes and onions.
To make the agro dolce (sweet sour) sauce:
Add the sugar to the pan and caramelise the sugar by stirring it until it melts and begins to turn a honey colour.
Add the vinegar and swirl it around to collect the flavours of the sautéed vegetables and evaporate it (2-3 minutes).
Place all of the sautéed vegetables and artichokes into the pan with the agro dolce sauce and gently toss the ingredients, as you would do a salad.
Simmer on very gentle heat to amalgamate the flavours for about 3-5 minutes.
Placecaponata into a sealed container or jar and store in the fridge. Leave it to stand at least a day but preferably longer.
Now, for the easier cheat’s version:
To make caponata, where the ingredients are not fried separately, proceed as follows:
Prepare and sauté the artichokes as in the proceeding recipe.
Add a little more extra virgin olive oil and heat it. Add the onion and the celery and sauté until they begin to colour.
Add the olives, capers, sugar, salt, vinegar and tomatoes. Cover and simmer gently until tender (5-10 minutes or more depending on the freshness and age of the artichokes).
It is August and winter in Melbourne, and I am on the lookout for artichokes.
Fresh produce has always been essential to my cooking, and I am fortunate to live very close to Melbourne’s Queen Victoria Market, where seasonal ingredients are always within reach. Before the lockdown restrictions, I also shopped at various Farmers’ Markets, but for now, QVM is my main source of beautiful winter produce.
Last weekend I found these exceptionally green artichokes—local, in season, and noticeably different from the varieties available earlier in the year. Their freshness was unmistakable.
Fresh winter artichokes from the Queen Victoria Market, bright green and in season.
A few days later I purchased a handful of baby artichokes. These appear when the artichoke plant is nearing the end of its season. The plant no longer has the energy to produce full-sized globes, so it sends out smaller offshoots. They are often used for pickling. Unlike the bright-green mature artichokes, these babies are tinged with purple.
And what is the bunch of greens sitting beside them? Cime di rapa—a welcome surprise this late in the season, and still in excellent condition.
Baby artichokes and late-season cime di rapa
Stuffed Winter Artichokes
With the large artichokes, I made a classic stuffed version. I filled the centres with fresh breadcrumbs, grated Parmesan, garlic, parsley and extra virgin olive oil, then braised them in a mixture of white wine, stock and more olive oil.
Potatoes help keep the artichokes upright as they cook, and they absorb the braising liquid beautifully. The liquid should reach below the top of each artichoke. The potatoes are delicious as they soak up the flavours of the artichoke braising liquid.
Artichokes stuffed with breadcrumbs, Parmesan, herbs and garlic, ready to braise.
Artichokes should fit snugly in the pan. Sometimes the stems help keep them secure; other times I use potatoes to prop them up.
And what did I do with the baby artichokes?
Baby Artichokes in Risotto
The baby artichokes were braised in stock, white wine and extra virgin olive oil. Once cooked, I used their fragrant braising liquid as the base for a delicate risotto.
For the risotto:
Sauté garlic and onion in extra virgin olive oil.
Add the rice and stir until well coated.
Warm the artichoke braising liquid and add it gradually, as you would for a traditional risotto.
Stir through parsley halfway through cooking. Add the cooked baby artichokes and a small knob of butter during the final absorption of the stock.
The risotto should be served all’onda—soft, creamy and rippling like waves.
Finish with grated Parmesan, if you wish, though I often prefer tasting the natural sweetness of the artichokes without cheese.
Risotto made with baby artichokes and their aromatic braising liquid.
Carciofi and Carciofini
In Italian, carciofi are artichokes and carciofini are baby artichokes.
My blog contains many artichoke recipes; here are a few you might enjoy:
When cooking Carciofi alla romana , the globe artichokes are cooked upside down. Carciofi are arti
Whereas globe artichokes, if stuffed, are cooked upright.
STUFFED ARTICHOKES
I enjoy globe artichokes and typically prepare them by stuffing, braising and serving them hot or cold. If peas or broad beans are in season, they are also added to the braise. A mixture of fresh breadcrumbs, parsley, garlic and grated Parmesan or Pecorino cheese is my most frequent stuffing, but I have also used minced meat, black olives and anchovies, or ricotta and almond meal for a delicate variation. Each globe artichoke holds approximately half a cup of stuffing, with larger artichokes containing more.
Once stuffed, the globe artichokes are placed upright and packed tightly into a pan and braised in white wine and/or stock. Extra virgin olive oil is an essential ingredient and it is used liberally.
CARCIOFI ALLA ROMANA
Small artichokes are ideal to cook alla romana – as the Romans do.
The artichokes (carciofi) currently in season in Melbourne are the small, purple, spiny varieties.
The globe artichokes that were in season previously have nearly finished, but some of the smaller, undeveloped ones remain.
These baby artichokes are typically preserved in oil.
RECIPE FOR CARCIOFI ALLA ROMANA
For carciofi alla romana, use the smallest artichokes you can find, but the small, purple, spiny ones would be my preference. In this recipe, the artichokes are also stuffed, but lightly …about a teaspoon of stuffing for each.
Carciofi alla romana are braised, but they are placed upside down and I use greater amounts of oil in the braising liquid – a mixture of water and a little white wine, but the aim is to have very little, concentrated and flavourful liquid at the end of cooking, and this will be mostly oil.
The stuffing:
For the stuffing for the number of artichokes I had (9) I used 1 large clove of garlic, ½ cup fresh parsley finely chopped, ½ cup fresh mint finely chopped, salt and pepper and all mixed with a little extra, virgin olive oil.
Clean and prepare the artichokes as you would globe artichokes. Use acidulated water (1 lemon). Peel off the tough outer leaves until you reach the softer paler leaves. The stems of my artichokes were not worth peeling, but if they are, peel the outer layer of the stem and, as is usual with this recipe, keep the stems attached to the base. Cut approximately one-third of the top of the artichoke to remove the spiny leaves. Using your fingers, gently separate the leaves in the centre of each artichoke to create a space for the stuffing.
Mix the garlic, parsley, seasoning and mint with 1 tablespoon of oil. Stuff the artichokes with this mixture.
The stuffing of the artichokes process.
Place about 1 cm of olive oil in the bottom of a narrow pot and arrange the artichokes close together and side by side…. but upside down. Add a little white wine and enough water to reach about 1/3 from the top of the height of the artichoke. Add salt and pepper, cover and simmer over low heat until the artichokes are soft and can be easily pierced with a fork.
The artichokes are cooked upside down.
Check them occasionally and if they are too dry add a little water if necessary in small amounts.
The cooked Carciofi Alla Romana.
When the artichokes are cooked, remove the lid, turn up the heat and evaporate the liquid until you have mainly oil. Remove the artichokes from the pot, drizzle the liquid over them and serve them at room temperature.
There are a number of recipes on my blog about artichokes and accompanying photos. Artichokes are not difficult to prepare and cook, and they are delicious.
The taste and power of bitter greens and the bitter ingredients in Amari have been a significant part of my life.
CHAMOMILE
When I was a child and had a tummy ache my mother used to give me an infusion of chamomile – and I bet that many other Italian children experienced the same remedy. I was also given it when I could not sleep and she rinsed my hair with chamomile – it was supposed to keep it fair and make it shiny. Chamomile was a magic herb.
Lemons to make Canerino
CANERINO made with lemon peel
My father asserted that a canerino (canary) was better. It is made by boiling lemon peel in water. This concoction was another multi-purpose panacea used for tummy aches, nausea, insomnia, colds, coughs, sore throats and fevers when you felt cold and shivery.
Carob tree near Ragusa
HERBAL REMEDIES
My father also would share his Dutch salted liquorice with me – aniseed and fennel are renown for assisting digestion.
My father’s sister who lives in Sicily is a great advocate for the healing and nutritive properties of carob. She claims it cures respiratory tract infections and it treats diarrhoea.
Ingredients for a simple salad- red radicchio,frisée and chicory
I was told that the more bitter the green, the better it was for my liver; the stimulation of bile flow was important to break down fats.
Radicchio from Trieste
My family always ate large quantities of bitter greens – all the different types of radicchio (we lived in Trieste where it was plentiful). The photo above: radicchio Triestino – a very small leafed variety of radicchio.
TYPES OF Italian BITTER GREENS
There were different types of chicory, Belgium endives (whitlof), rocket, escarole, cardoons and globe artichokes. Vegetables that have strong sulphur smells like cime di rapa or cime di rape, Brussel sprouts and radishes were also favourites.
Marisa al mercato in Sicily buying bitter wild greens
When we visited Sicily, our relatives made sure to feed us edible weeds (erbe spontanie) – matalufo, agghiti (in Ragusa’s dialect), bitter chicory, different varieties of mustard greens and brassicas, wild rocket, puntarelle, wild fennel fronds and wild asparagus – the two types of wild asparagus are particularly bitter. Photos below and above: wild greens in Sicilian markets.
So, as you can see, because of my history and my Italian culture I had my digestive health covered.
As an adult, I had an inherent appreciation of bitter flavours and much appreciated an Amaro, not just because I liked the taste but because I believed that it aids digestion.
AMORO (AMARI plural) are bitter, alcoholic beverages
Amaro (Italian for “bitter”) is usually drunk as a digestive before a meal (an aperitivo) or after meals (a digestivo). There are many local and regional versions of these alcoholic beverages – examples of some well-known Amari are Aperol, Averna, Cynar and Fernet-Branca.
These bitter, alcoholic beverages are usually referred to as being herb based, but they are made of various and numerous vegetables, fruit, berries, bark, flowers, herbs, roots and spices macerated in alcohol diluted with water to obtain the desired gradation. They are also sweetened and range from bittersweet to intensely bitter.
The oldest recipes for herb-based beverages were usually formulated by pharmacists, botanists, and enthusiasts, many in monasteries and convents. The recipes have been developed over time by wine and spirit companies and the alcohol content of Amari varies between 11% and 40%.
Restaurants in Italy may offer a dozen selections of Amari, especially after a meal, but unfortunately, Amari are not beneficial aids to digestion – the beneficial properties of the herbs are reduced or eliminated and the higher the alcohol content, the slower the breakdown of food.
If you want to eat more, it makes sense to drink an Amaro as an aperitivo – the bitter flavours may stimulate the taste buds and increase the secretion of saliva and gastric juices.
Both contain bitter herbs that are good for digestion
SOME AMARI
Aperol has an alcohol content of 11%—less than half that of Campari. Averna is considered an excellent digestive liqueur, but the alcohol content is 29%, Ramazzotti is 30% and Fernet is 40%.
Wild fennel in Catania market
Aniseed liqueur is distilled from the fruit of the green aniseed plant along with other aromatic ingredients – but Sanbuca is 48% alcohol.
HOME MADE HERBAL INFUSIONS
If we really wish to help our digestion after a meal, we may be better off with the simple home-made infusions. Popular home-made infusions, apart from chamomile, often contain fennel seeds, peppermint, sage, ginger and rosemary.
Kale
I still enjoy my bitter greens and since living in Australia I have broadened the range of bitter greens that I am able to buy in Australia – watercress, dandelions, the wide range of Asian mustard greens and varieties of kale and frisée.
Frittedda: A Traditional Sicilian Sauté of Spring Vegetables
Frittedda is one of Sicily’s finest celebrations of spring. This traditional Sicilian dish combines the season’s first artichokes, broad beans and peas, gently sautéed so that each vegetable retains its own distinctive texture and flavour—the sweetness of the peas, the slight bitterness of the artichokes and the delicate, nutty taste of the broad beans. Rather than a heavily cooked vegetable stew, frittedda is closer to a warm salad that showcases the freshness of the ingredients.
The Tradition of Frittedda in Sicily
In Sicily, frittedda is traditionally prepared in early spring (primavera), particularly around the Feast of San Giuseppe (19 March), when peas and broad beans first come into season. Although the dish is most closely associated with the north-west of the island, especially Palermo and Trapani, variations are also found in the farming districts of Caltanissetta, Enna and Agrigento, each reflecting local ingredients and traditions.
My Version of Frittedda
Because frittedda celebrates the arrival of spring, I enjoy adding fresh asparagus, although this is not part of the traditional recipe. I also occasionally add a small amount of good broth to deepen the flavour. Sicilian cooks rarely use stock, preferring to let the quality of their sun-ripened vegetables speak for themselves.
I think frittedda is best served at room temperature, much like caponata, where the flavours have had time to develop. It makes a wonderful antipasto with crusty bread, but it is equally delicious spooned over pasta for a simple spring meal.
Broad beans and small purple artichokes
Frittedda
Regional Variations
Like many Sicilian dishes, frittedda changes from one province to another.
In Palermo, cooks often finish the dish with a light agrodolce of caramelised sugar and vinegar, like in the flavours of caponata.
In Enna, in the heart of Sicily, wild fennel is commonly added during cooking, giving the dish an aromatic flavour that reflects the island’s rural traditions.
White asparagus
Shelled fresh broad beans
FRITTEDDA
Ingredients
artichokes, about 3 young, tender
peas, 750g (250g, shelled weight)
broad beans, young, 1kg (these will result in about shelled 350g) The broad beans should be young and small — if they are not, (remove the outer peel of each bean)
asparagus (250g). Snap the bottoms from the asparagus and cut the spears into 2cm lengths
spring onions, 3-4, sliced thinly (including the green parts)
lemon, 1 for the acidulated water
extra virgin olive oil, about ½ cup
salt and pepper
white wine vinegar, ½ tablespoon or the juice of ½ lemon
sugar, about a teaspoon
fresh mint leaves, to sprinkle on top before serving
PROCESS
Prepare the artichokes by removing the tough outer leaves. Young artichokes can be difficult to find in Australia, so you may need to discard more leaves than you would in Sicily.
As you clean the artichokes, place them in acidulated water (the juice of 1 lemon added to water) to prevent discolouration.
Quarter each artichoke, then slice each quarter thinly. Don’t discard the stems—peel away the tough outer layer and slice the tender centres.
Heat a generous splash of extra virgin olive oil in a wide, heavy-based pan. Add the sliced artichokes and sauté gently for 5–7 minutes, tossing the pan rather than stirring to keep the slices intact.
Taste the artichokes. If they need further cooking, add about ½ cup of water, cover the pan and cook gently for another 10 minutes, or until they are just tender when tested with a fork.
Add a little more olive oil, then the spring onions, peas and broad beans. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Toss the vegetables gently so they cook evenly without breaking up. Cook for 5–7 minutes, adding a splash of water (or a little stock, if using) if the pan becomes too dry.
Add the asparagus and cook for another 2–3 minutes, just until tender but still bright green.
Transfer the frittedda to a serving bowl to prevent the vegetables from continuing to cook in the hot pan.
Season with the white wine vinegar or the juice of ½ lemon. The acidity balances the natural sweetness of the vegetables. If desired, add a small pinch of sugar to enhance the sweet-and-sour balance.
I sometimes grate in a little fresh nutmeg, which complements the sweetness of the peas and broad beans. Scatter fresh mint leaves over the frittedda just before serving, as mint discolours if added too early.
Serving suggestion: Frittedda is best served at room temperature, allowing the flavours to develop fully.
Variations
As with many traditional Sicilian dishes, frittedda varies from one part of the island to another.
In Palermo, cooks often finish the dish with a light agrodolce (sweet-and-sour) dressing made from caramelised sugar and vinegar, much like the seasoning used for caponata.
In Enna, in the heart of Sicily, wild fennel is added during cooking, giving the dish a distinctive aromatic flavour that reflects the island’s inland traditions.
It is spring in Melbourne, and artichokes (carciofi) and asparagus (asparagi) are at their seasonal best. This is the time of year when market stalls are filled with fresh, tender produce, making it the perfect opportunity to enjoy these two classic Mediterranean vegetables. Their delicate flavours capture the freshness of spring and feature prominently in many Italian, including Sicilian, kitchens.
Spring combination
While artichokes in large bunches with long stems are not as common in Australia, short stemmed artichokes have become more prevalent in larger Australian cities. I have even observed some in supermarkets, although they are not always fresh and crisp.
Artichokes in Siracusa Sicily
Last year I was able to buy artichokes from a grower in Werribee – not far from Melbourne. Produce bought from growers is always more fragrant and it lasts for a longer time in the fridge.
Artichokes in Werribee Victoria, so fresh and in various sizes
Asparagus is one of the highlights of spring in Melbourne. The slender green spears, traditionally sold in bunches, remain the most common, but the thicker varieties—sold by weight—have become increasingly popular. Available in both green and white, these robust spears are ideal for char-grilling, a cooking method that enhances their natural sweetness and has become a favourite in contemporary restaurants and home kitchens alike.
Bunches of wild artichokes purchased in Italy
In Australia—or at least in Melbourne—we have yet to embrace the wild asparagus tradition that is so deeply rooted in Italy (see photos above and below). Wild asparagus (asparagi di bosco), with its slender stems and distinctive, slightly bitter flavour, is highly prized throughout the country. Each spring, Italians head into the countryside to forage for it, and the seasonal harvest is eagerly anticipated. It is most often cooked simply in omelettes, risottos, pasta dishes or lightly dressed with olive oil and a squeeze of lemon juice, allowing its unique flavour to shine.
Wild asparagus sold loose
I frequently cook asparagus and artichokes together. For a gluten-free friend, I stuffed the artichokes with a paste of almond meal, parsley, garlic and one egg. I braised them in stock and white wine.
Artichokes ready for stuffing with almond meal instead of breadcrumbs for a gluten free friend
I used whole potatoes to support the artichokes in an upright position. I then added asparagus a few minutes before I was ready to present the artichokes.
Artichokes cooked upright with potatoes and these absorb the flavour of the artichoke and stock
Although artichokes can be cooked in various ways I mostly liked them stuffed. as well as using potatoes and asparagus, I also like to add broad beans or peas at times. at times I have also added cooked cannellini.
Artichokes stripped of their outer leaves and cooked with beans
Stripped of their tough outer leaves artichokes are perfect for eating with just a fork and a knife.
I have written many recipes for artichokes and asparagus on my blog… Use the search button and type in ‘artichokes’ if you wish to find how to clean artichokes and recipes. here are just a few:
Enjoy the fresh flavours of spring with this simple pasta dish that celebrates the season’s freshest vegetables: tender artichokes, crisp asparagus, and sweet peas – the colours and flavours as pleasing to the eye as it is to the palate. You can use broadbeans if you are fortunate in finding produce that has not been harvested when the pods are too mature. It the beans are too big, you will need to peel off the outer layer.
The pictures tell the story.
I use good quality pasta and sometimes interesting shapes. On this occasion I used Croxetti, the flat medallions from Liguria, and my guests enjoyed it; they are in the shape of flat medallions and usually stamped with a decorative design. And of course, any short pasta will do!
Use this sauce made with Spring vegetables as a dressing for the cooked pasta.
Begin by preparing your main ingredient: the artichokes. Strip away the tough outer leaves, then slice them vertically into thin slices. Rub the cut surfaces with lemon to keep them from browning. Don’t overlook the stalks; remove their fibrous skin and slice the tender heart into thin rounds.
Strip the fibrous covering off the artichoke stalks and slice the remaining centre of the stalk into thin slices. To do this, cut off the very end of the stem and then strip the covering or use a paring knife to cut off the covering – expect the covering to be thick.
Asparagus is a springtime staple, and once you’ve snapped off the tough ends, slice the remaining stalks thinly, allowing them to cook evenly.
Asparagus are prolific in Spring. Once the tough bottom end of each asparagus is snapped off and discarded, slice the remaining stalks thinly as they will need more cooking than the top end of the asparagus.
In a saucepan, heat a generous drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, then sauté the artichokes and stalks until they begin to soften. Add a splash of white wine and a bit of stock, cover, and let them braise until tender. Set aside.
Next, bring in the spring onions and sauté them in the same pan until fragrant. Toss in the asparagus and your choice of peas or broad beans, adding a pinch of salt, pepper, and a hint of sugar to enhance the sweetness. For best results, cook in batches to avoid overcrowding.
Once everything is just tender, return the artichokes to the pan, stirring in a dollop of butter and a dash of grated nutmeg. Finish with a sprinkle of fresh parsley or basil for a burst of extra colour, freshness, and flavour.
Dress the cooked pasta to the spring vegetable sauce. For a creamy touch, top it off with a generous dollop of ricotta or grated Parmesan.
Fennel can also be added – consider adding sautéed slices for an extra layer of taste, texture and fragrance.
Enjoy the flavours of spring!
Artichokes are called Carciofi in Italian and there are several recipes on my blog:
