Steak Tartare is one of those dishes that never completely disappears. Like burrata, bocconcini or sun-dried tomatoes, it falls in and out of fashion, only to return with renewed popularity and a fresh interpretation.
During recent travels through Paris, Venice, Cividale del Friuli, Copenhagen and Malmö, I found Steak Tartare on many menus. Every restaurant prepared it differently. Some versions were elaborate, others beautifully restrained, but each reflected local tastes and traditions.
Some were memorable. One, in particular, was exceptional.
My Father’s Version of Bistecca alla Tartara
Long before Steak Tartare became fashionable again, my father prepared his own bistecca alla tartara.
Rather than finely chopping the beef, he pounded thin slices until almost paper-thin, seasoned them simply with salt, freshly ground black pepper, good extra virgin olive oil and lemon juice, then left them to marinate briefly. The acidity of the lemon gently changed the colour of the meat, giving the appearance of being lightly “cooked”.
It was elegant, uncomplicated and completely delicious.
A Dish with a Colourful History
The origins of Steak Tartare have long been surrounded by stories and legend.
One of the best-known tales links the dish to the Tatars, the nomadic horsemen of Central Asia who travelled across Eastern Europe during the Middle Ages. According to popular tradition, they softened meat beneath their saddles while riding before eating it.
Although historians generally regard this story as folklore rather than documented fact, the association remains part of the mythology surrounding the dish and has helped shape its enduring name.
Today’s Steak Tartare evolved much later in European cuisine, particularly in France, where finely chopped raw beef became a classic bistro dish. It is either served with some condiments or the condiments are mixed with the meat before it is presented.
Endless Variations Across Europe
- Fresh condiments served separately allow each diner to season the tartare to their own taste.
Every country—and often every chef—seems to have a different interpretation.
Popular condiments vary but the most common are finely chopped parsley and onion, capers, mustard, olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper and egg yolks.
The classic version usually consists of finely chopped beef mixed with or accompanied by combinations of:
- egg yolk
- Dijon mustard
- capers
- finely chopped onion or shallots
- parsley
- cornichons
- Worcestershire sauce
- Tabasco
- anchovies
- lemon juice
- extra virgin olive oil
- salt and freshly ground black pepper
The balance between these ingredients varies enormously.
Some chefs mix everything together before serving; others allow diners to season the meat themselves.
My Favourite Way
My preference remains the simplest.
Good quality beef needs very little embellishment.
I season it with:
- extra virgin olive oil
- freshly squeezed lemon juice
- salt
- black pepper
- one egg yolk mixed through
Then I place another fresh egg yolk on top and serve a few condiments alongside so each person can add as much—or as little—as they like.
The flavour of excellent beef should always remain the star.
Choosing the Beef
Only the freshest, highest-quality beef should be used.
Eye fillet (beef tenderloin) is my preferred cut because it is lean, tender and beautifully flavoured.
Ask your butcher to cut it fresh on the day you intend to serve it.
Ingredients
Serves 4
- 500 g beef eye fillet (or other premium fillet)
- 2 fresh egg yolks
- 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
- juice of ½ lemon
- sea salt
- freshly ground black pepper
Optional additions:
- Dijon mustard
- finely chopped anchovies
- capers
- chopped onion or shallots
- chopped parsley
- cornichons
- Worcestershire sauce
- Tabasco
To serve:
- toasted rye bread
- rye crispbread
- French fries
- warm crusty bread
Method
Remove every trace of fat and sinew from the beef.
Using a very sharp knife, slice the meat thinly with the grain. Cut the slices into fine strips, then cut across again until the beef reaches your preferred texture. Some people enjoy a very fine mince; others prefer slightly larger pieces.
Keep the meat refrigerated while preparing the dressing.
Whisk together one egg yolk, olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper.
Fold the dressing gently through the beef. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.
If using additional flavourings such as mustard, anchovies or capers, add them sparingly so they complement rather than overpower the beef.
Divide the mixture onto chilled plates, shaping it into neat rounds.
Make a small indentation in the centre of each and carefully place the remaining egg yolk on top.
Serve immediately with your preferred accompaniments.
Raw beef quickly loses its vibrant colour, so Steak Tartare is always at its best freshly prepared.
Steak Tartare Around Europe
One of the pleasures of travelling is seeing how the same dish changes from place to place.
In Paris, Steak Tartare arrived with crisp golden French fries.
In Venice, it was served with toasted croutons.
In Malmö, the dish was accompanied by sour cream.
In Cividale del Friuli, close to the Slovenian border, the tartare reflected local influences. It arrived with warm bread in a paper bag, curls of butter and a noticeable touch of chilli—prepared alla Slovena. It also included a mustard fruit (mostarda di frutta), very popular in Italy with boiled meats.
Sometimes simplicity really is perfection.
A Memorable Meal at Manfreds, Copenhagen
Among all the versions I tasted, the one served at Manfreds in Copenhagen stood out.
Manfreds focuses on everyday food, which is aided by modern techniques and raw materials of the highest quality.
The restaurant has built its reputation on exceptional seasonal produce and understated cooking. Biodynamic vegetables, carefully sourced meats and natural wines define its philosophy, allowing outstanding ingredients to speak for themselves.
That same respect for quality was evident in their Steak Tartare—simple, beautifully balanced and unforgettable.
At Manfreds the wine is natural wine, which has made the restaurant Copenhagen’s first natural wine bar.
