Mataroccu is made with ripe tomatoes, fresh basil, garlic, extra virgin olive oil and almonds.
At this time of year basil is plentiful and many of us enjoy pasta with pesto, so it is time to revisit a post I first wrote in February, 2009 about the Sicilian pesto called Mataroccu (and also Ammogghia in some parts of Sicily).
It is made with ripe tomatoes, fresh basil, garlic, extra virgin olive oil and almonds.
The name pesto comes from the word for pestle or to pound , emphasising the traditional method of pounding these ingredients together to create a sauce that’s rich and sweet; it eliminates the grassy flavours that often result from a food processor.T
While most people are familiar with the classic Ligurian pesto—made with Genoese basil, pine nuts, garlic, and a blend of Parmigiano and Pecorino Sardo or Toscano. Both of these regional cheeses are sweeter in taste than the other from different regions.
Pecorino is made from sheep’s’ milk – the word pecora is Italian for sheep.
Pecorino Sardo: Mild and nutty, semi-hard.
Pecorino Romano: Sharp and salty, hard; perfect for grating.
Pecorino Toscano: Creamy and slightly sweet, semi-soft to hard.
Pecorino Siciliano: Rich and robust, hard; great for grating and traditional dishes.
Ligurians are passionate about their pesto, insisting that only basil from their sun-drenched region will do.
In contrast, Sicily offers its own unique taste and locality highlighting the best of summer’s harvest, where both basil and tomatoes thrive. Almonds, also native to Sicily, add a distinctive touch to this sauce. Mataroccu can be enjoyed tossed with pasta or drizzled over grilled vegetables.
As expected there are some slight different regional versions and name of the same pistu – (Sicilian word for pesto).
Pesto Pantesco hails from the island of Pantelleria, just southwest of Sicily. This version may use capers and sun-dried tomatoes. The incorporation of local ingredients gives Pesto Pantesco a distinctive taste that reflects the island’s rich culinary heritage.
In Trapani, there’s an interesting twist: while Mataroccu typically uses almonds, some locals prefer pine nuts rather than almonds; the pine nuts impart a creamier consistency and a subtly more nutty taste, than almonds.
When it comes to making Mataroccu as in most Sicilian recipes, there’s no need for precision; I never weigh my ingredients. Instead, aim for a balanced sauce that lightly coats your high-quality durum wheat pasta, without overwhelming it. I prefer short pasta shapes for this dish.
As I may have written at other times, in Australia we tend to overdress our pasta – the pesto should coat the pasta, but not overpower the taste.
INGREDIENTS
almonds or pine nuts, 1 cup
garlic, 8-10 cloves,
ripe tomatoes, 400g, peeled, seeded, and chopped
basil, 1 ½ cups loose leaves
parsley ½ cup, cut finely (optional)
extra virgin olive oil (your most fragrant), about 1 cup or as much as the pesto absorbs
salt, and red pepper flakes to taste
PREPARATION
In a mortar, pound the garlic with a pinch of salt until it forms a paste (you want it smooth, yet with some texture).
Gradually add a portion of the tomatoes, herbs, and a splash of olive oil, continuing to pound until combined.
Slowly incorporate the remaining ingredients until you achieve a smooth, homogeneous sauce.
Pecorino Siciliano is a good addition at time of serving, but I really appreciate the fresh taste, and although I may add it to the table at the time of serving, I don’t add it. Ricotta can also be placed on the table in time of serving, but is not very common in Sicily.
For those who prefer modern convenience, a food processor works wonders. Simply grind the nuts first, then blend in the other ingredients gradually until creamy.
Ot summer favourite:
This is a sensational pesto. Took your advice about use of a mortar and pestle as opposed to a food processor. I used almonds rather than pine nuts (little wonder as pine nuts are currently A$56 kilo) and pounded them in a mortar – creates a lovely moist crumb compared to the drier texture of nuts that have been blitzed in the food processor. The creamy pesto texture came together beautifully with the mortar and pestle. I particularly liked the earthier taste of the almonds compared to the richness of pine nuts. Served it with spaghetinni and some freshly grated grana padano. Delcious and very well received!
Hi Marisa, this is a pretty accurate receipe – well done!
However, in Marsala (which is my hometown) there is also a fantastic variation of it. The ingredients are similar:
– Chopped fresh tomatoes
– Garlic
– Olive Oil
– Salt
– Basil
– Few drops of lemon juice
– Water
It’s a very basic and old receipe. The variation here is that it is not used with past and watered. It is in fact a dip where sop up chopped home made bread. It was the typical breakfast for the grapepickers in Marsala’s vineyards during the harvest time.
We call it “Matarocco cu pane” (Matarocco and bread)
I was surprised that by surfing on internet I could not find such a great receipe. It’s not mentioned anywhere. Do you want to be the first one to do some more research on it and pubblish?
Ciao,
Gaspare
Gaspare, how interesting!! Many thanks. I love to receive information like this.
I have never heard about the lemon juice nor about it being a typical breakfast dish.
Your comment demonstrates just how diverse Sicilian recipes are – for every recipe there are local variations.
Marisa
And by the way Gaspare, what a lovely name you have been given.
Loved your information and a mortar and pestle is a must. We do add a bit of lemon to our pesto — we like the tang. It’s winter here and we miss our fresh basil. Well, spring is just around the corner. Buona serata
Hi M, interesting that you add lemon!! For pasta? We do fiddle with recipes, and isn’t that good!
I like the look of this one with the addition of tomatoes and pepper, though I never use parsley in a pesto – is this a Sicilian thing? Yes, making it in a mortar and pestle is always much better. ( As with salsa Verde- its cousin)
I have never used a mortar and pestle for salsa verde – I always chop ingredients by hand.
And also… It is just that the Ligurian pesto is so commonly known that we associate only basil to be part of a pesto. Pesto means pounded – so anything that is made with a mortar and pestle is a pesto.When I make a Ligurian pesto I do not use parsley either.