My relatives in Ragusa, Sicily, often visit their favourite massaro—a farmer who raises cows and makes cheese. They buy fresh farm produce: ricotta, provola, Ragusano, and caciocavallo.
Sicilians have a deep appreciation for locally made cheeses, and in Ragusa, unlike many other parts of Sicily, there are more cows, rather than sheep.
Ricotta, a staple in Sicilian kitchens, is prized for its freshness and versatility. It’s enjoyed on its own or used in various savoury and sweet dishes. Sheep’s milk ricotta is especially sweet and preferred for pastries. Where would the cannoli and cassata be without it!
Zia Niluzza and the Massaro
My aunt, Zia Niluzza, lives in Ragusa and regularly has her ricotta, provola, and caciocavallo delivered by a local farmer she called a massaro. She also enjoys visiting him, especially when she has guests. She makes it a must when I’m visiting from abroad.
For many years, cheese and ricotta were delivered by a man named Ciccio, who operated a small-scale dairy on his masseria (farm) just outside Marina di Ragusa. My aunt always referred to him as a massaro and he had only three cows. Those with more cows might be called a vaccaro (a farmer who had a herd), but to be considered a casaro (professional cheesemaker), cheese would need to be produced on a much larger scale.
Ciccio used to make Ragusano cheese, one of Sicily’s oldest and most distinctive cheeses. If you’ve watched Inspector Montalbano, you’ve likely seen the landscapes around Ragusa where this cheese is traditionally made. Ragusano is similar to provola in that it uses a pasta filata (stretched curd) technique, but it’s shaped in large rectangular blocks. It weighs up to 16 kilograms, and is aged for many months. It’s rubbed with oil and vinegar during aging, giving it its characteristic golden-yellow rind. The cheese has Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status, which limits its name and method of production to this specific region.
Sadly, Ciccio ceased producing Ragusano when it gained PDO status. Upgrading his operation to meet PDO regulations proved too expensive, a common fate for many massari.
My First Visit – 1977
I first visited Ciccio’s masseria in 1977. I wanted to go and was fascinated by my aunt’s description of the process of making cheeses on such a small home farm..
We arrived unannounced and found the family in a two-room barn with packed earth floors and thick stone walls that naturally regulated the temperature. It was smoky inside. Ciccio had just made what would become Ragusano and at that point, there were still curds submerged in a tub of whey.
In another room, we saw pear-shaped provole, large yellow Ragusano cheeses resting on rafters, and pairs of caciocavallo hanging over wooden beams like saddlebags (“cacio a cavallo” literally means “cheese on horseback”).
Some cheeses were draining in reed baskets; others were maturing on racks. The smell was potent: smoke, sour milk, and the pungent vinegar and oil that is rubbed onto the Ragusano rind to make it the dark golden coloured cheese that it becomes.
This was a family event. Ciccio’s teenage son was stirring a large cauldron over a wood fire to make ricotta from the whey left over from caciocavallo. We watched in silence as the liquid separated into curds. His wife quietly brought us terracotta bowls with torn bread at the bottom. Each of us received a ladle of hot curds and whey – ricotta in its freshest form.
I asked for less whey. and bread.
The scene felt ceremonial: the smoke, the silence, the secret language (Sicilian rather than Italian was spoken almost throughout), the transformation of liquid into food, and the communal sharing. I made this comment aloud, but it didn’t go over well. Most Sicilians, including my aunt are very religious.
This ricotta was made with cow’s milk.They were delighted to see me taste the hot ricotta for the first time. I hadn’t known that freshly made ricotta was such a treat and that it was still produced in such humble, traditional ways.
The Sicilians in Ragusa seem very fond of eating warm ricotta. I liked the solid part but did not enjoy the bread in the whey. I did not dare complain.
We returned to Ragusa with a load: Ragusano, fresh provola, ricotta salata (salted, dried ricotta), and fresh ricotta draining in a reed basket.
Cheese Quick Guide
| Cheese |
Milk |
Texture |
Shape |
Aging |
Flavor Notes |
| Provola |
Cow (sometimes mixed) |
Semi-soft to firm |
Pear/teardrop |
Short to medium |
Buttery, mild to tangy |
| Caciocavallo |
Cow (or sheep/goat) |
Semi-hard to hard |
Gourd/teardrop |
Months to 1+ year |
Nutty, spicy when aged |
| Ragusano |
Raw cow (Modicana) |
Hard |
Rectangular block |
3+ months |
Aromatic, sharp, savory |
Not every one likes eating warm ricotta
Shortly after, my brother and sister-in-law visited Sicily. Excited by my experience, Zia Niluzza took them to Ciccio’s farm. But it was a hot day, and my sister-in-law—who isn’t fond of milk—couldn’t stomach the strong smells and warm curds. Zia was embarrassed by her refusal, and apparently the cheesemakers were a little surprised.
But I sympathize. The combination of smoke, sour milk, fermenting cheese, and heat can be overwhelming. Zia had planned the visit without thinking that not everyone finds warm curds in whey appealing.
The Tradition Lives On
Ciccio no longer makes cheese; he sold the farm due to changing economic and environmental conditions. Zia Niluzza now visits a different massaro. When I last visited, she was planning an outing with women from her church to enjoy fresh ricotta and although they are locals, it remains a popular local activity now open to both locals and tourists. I declined. I didn’t want to dilute my memory of that first visit.
Many of these masserie (farms) have converted rooms into spaces large enough to be eateries. My aunt has often booked these places for family occasions. When I go to Ragusa, she rounds up all the relatives so that we can be together and have feasts— everything that is presented is traditional local food, all made with the cheese they produce.
From My Kitchen: Sicilian Cheese Dishes
Formaggio all’Argentiera (Fried Cheese with Garlic, Vinegar, and Oregano)
Formaggio all’Argentiera is also a favourite in my kitchen, especially as an antipasto. It is very easy to prepare, and I have never had complaints from guests.
Argento is the word for silver, and silversmiths could eat cheese cooked in this manner and the method of cooking it is the same as the method that could be used to cook meat. The poor could not afford to eat meat (the silversmiths could), but the poor could cook cheese and give the impression of being well off (to any one who was walking past their house while they were cooking the cheese).
It is a rustic, traditional dish and can be made with fresh cheese – formaggio fresco, provola or caciocavallo.
Ingredients
For 2-4 slices of cheese, some extra virgin olive oil, garlic clove, sliced, dried oregano, freshly ground black pepper, a splash of white or red wine vinegar, pinch of sugar.
Instructions:
Heat olive oil in a non-stick pan over medium heat.
Add garlic and cheese slices. Sprinkle with oregano and pepper.
Cook for 1 minute or until golden, then flip. Sprinkle the other side.
Remove cheese and place on a serving dish.
Deglaze the pan with vinegar and sugar, reducing slightly.
Pour over the cheese and serve hot.
Tip: If your cheese doesn’t melt easily, you can leave it in the pan while deglazing. Not all cheese has the same melting point.
RICOTTA FRISCA ‘NFURNATA – RICOTTA FRESCA INFORNATA (Baked, fresh ricotta)
