CHICKPEAS and simple food

Let’s make the most of simple, healthy food — chickpeas.

We do not need perfectly stocked pantries to cook satisfying meals. Some of the best dishes come from using what we already have on hand and allowing simple ingredients to shine.

I always keep chickpeas and other pulses in my pantry and freezer. I soak dried pulses overnight, change the water, add bay leaves, or rosemary, or sage, or thyme and then cook them slowly over low heat.THe different herbs will impart a different taste.

Once cooked, I transfer the surplus into glass jars, cover them with their cooking liquid and store them in the freezer. They are nutritious, economical and always ready to use.

Chickpeas have long been central to Mediterranean cooking, especially in Italy, where they appear in soups, pasta dishes and rustic contorni. They are humble ingredients, but deeply satisfying.

Here are  some very different dishes using chickpeas — both simple, improvised and full of flavour.

Would these dishes belong to particular Italian regions? Perhaps not directly. But the ingredients and cooking methods certainly sit comfortably within Italian and Mediterranean traditions. The cauliflower pasta especially feels connected to the type of food my mother would have cooked — practical, seasonal and deeply nourishing.

Pasta with Cauliflower and Chickpeas

This pasta dish came together with ingredients I already had at home: chickpeas, cauliflower, passata, herbs and chilli.

The herb I used was nepitella, which grows abundantly on my balcony at this time of year. Oregano, basil, thyme, marjoram or parsley would all work beautifully.

The cauliflower was the common white variety — inexpensive, easy to find and a vegetable that keeps well in the fridge. I prefer spring onions to regular onions for their gentler flavour, but either can be used. There was also garlic and homemade stock involved, because there are always jars of broth in my freezer.

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The method was straightforward and very Italian in spirit. I began with extra virgin olive oil, garlic and spring onion gently sautéed. The cauliflower followed, then stock, herbs, seasoning and just enough passata to lightly colour the dish. Everything simmered slowly until tender and fragrant.

I cooked the short pasta separately, though I could easily have added extra stock and cooked the pasta directly in the sauce. I wanted this to be a softer, slightly brothy pasta dish — comforting and rustic.

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Chickpeas with pasta.

Chickpeas with Saffron, Mushrooms and Eggplant

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Chickpeas, saffron, mushrooms and eggplants.

The second dish was more improvised.There is no traditional name because it simply evolved from what I had in the fridge at the time. That is often how good home cooking begins.

I sautéed spring onion in olive oil, added whole mushrooms, then chickpeas and strips of eggplant. Saffron went in for warmth and colour, along with marjoram from the balcony garden. The liquid was the chickpea cooking broth itself — rich, earthy and too good to waste.

Before serving, I added fresh mint for brightness.

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Cooking with What We Have

Being creative in my kitchen gives me much pleasure. One of the reasons I enjoy camping or cooking in Airbnbs while travelling is that I cannot rely on having every ingredient or every kitchen tool available. There is creativity in limitation.

You adapt. You improvise. You cook with what is there.

And often those meals become the most memorable.

I MUST LIKE CHICKPEAS – RECIPES:

CECI (CHICKPEAS) IN SICILIA: Cucina Povera

PASTA con cavolofiore, salsicce di maiale e ceci (pasta with cauliflower, pork sausages and chickpeas)

MUSSELS WITH CHICKPEAS

VESPERS and a celebration of chickpeas in BACCALÀ CON CECI alla fiorentina (Salt Cod with Chickpeas as cooked in Florence)

CHICKPEAS SOUP WITH WILD FENNEL (Minestra di ceci con finocchio, erba selvatica)

CEDRO o LIMONE? Insalata di limone. Sicilian Lemon salad.

Cedro o Limone? Insalata di Simone — my Sicilian lemon salad — came immediately to mind when I spotted these extraordinary lemons at the Alphington Melbourne Farmers’ Market.

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Mature lemons from Alphington Farmers’ Market.

Was I excited? Absolutely.

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At the Sennsational Berries stall, I found a small basket of mature, thick-skinned lemons—the kind you rarely see unless you’re in Sicily or have an old tree in your garden. For a moment I wondered whether they were cedri (citron), but I was assured they were lemons. One taste confirmed it: fragrant, juicy, and perfect for the simple salad my father used to make in Ragusa before he moved to Trieste.

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Thick-skinned lemon peeled and ready for Sicilian lemon salad.

I peeled the lemon, cut away the pith, and squeezed out just enough juice to keep the flavour balanced but not overly sharp—this salad should be refreshing, not acidic.

Fresh garlic is essential. I still had some cloves from the previous week’s market visit, but this time I also bought tender garlic shoots. I sliced them finely and added fresh mint, a little parsley, and a handful of oregano picked from my balcony plant—originally taken from my father’s garden in Adelaide. He died years ago, and using his oregano still feels like a small act of keeping him close.

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Fresh garlic shoots

The last time I bought garlic shoots was earlier this year when I was in the Maremma, Tuscany. Earlier this year in the Maremma, in our Airbnb in Castiglione della Pescaia, I cooked them with zucchini and zucchini flowers to make a dressing for pici, the local pasta. Simple ingredients, unforgettable flavours.

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Sicilian lemon salad with herbs and extra virgin olive oil.

Below, the pasta dish I cooked with the produce I purchased in Tuscany:

 

But back to the lemon salad in Melbourne.

To finish, all it needs is good extra virgin olive oil and a sprinkle of salt—the salt draws out the natural sweetness of the lemon. It’s a perfect summer dish. Think of it alongside seafood (BBQ fish is wonderful) or served with a simple roast chicken, as I did when I took the salad to a friend’s home.

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Sicilian lemon salad served alongside roast chicken.

I shared this recipe with the stallholders at the market, and they were just as excited as I was.

A simple lemon, but what a story it carries.

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I have written about lemon salad before. That post also explains what is a cedro and has a photo of a cedro from a Sicilian market.

LEMON and CEDRO – SICILIAN LEMON SALAD

I shared my recipe with the stall owners. They were excited too.

Alphington Farmers’Market:  ttps://melbourne-farmers-markets-mfm.myshopify.com/pages/alphington-farmers-market

 

SAUERKRAUT with Dried Mushrooms and golden CHICKEN BROTH, Polish secrets

SAUERKRAUT with dried mushrooms and golden CHICKEN BROTH are traditional Polish dishes, so it is beneficial to have a Polish friend.

Recently, I stayed with my Polish friend in Adelaide. During my return to Melbourne, I have already prepared two Polish-inspired dishes.

Additionally, I returned home with a large quantity of sorrel from her garden, which I used to make an omelette. When I have access to sorrel, I typically braise it with potatoes, prepare a green borscht or incorporate it into a meat braise.

Sorrel on right hand side

My friend celebrates Christmas eve with some of the traditional Polish  foods that her parents used to enjoy. She and her two sisters get together and make Pierogi stuffed with sauerkraut and dried porcini mushrooms.

She knows how much I like sauerkraut and if I am visiting her after Christmas I know that she would have saved some Pierogi for me in her freezer.

Sauerkraut as cooked by my Polish friend

For this October meal, she prepared sauerkraut and dried porcini mushrooms as a side dish for duck breasts, a green salad and steamed herbed potatoes. The dried mushrooms impart a darker colour to the sauerkraut and, of course, potatoes and beetroot are staples in Polish cuisine.

Sauerkraut and dried porcini mushrooms as a side dish for duck breasts, a green salad , steamed herbed potatoes and beetroot

Having lived in Trieste, I am well-acquainted with preparing and consuming sauerkraut, which is one of my favourite ingredients. However, I generally do not add dried mushrooms nor cook sauerkraut as long as she does.

As with many long-time cooks, she does not measure quantities.

RECIPE: SAUERKRAUT COOKED WITH PORCINI MUSHROOMS

Vary the amounts of mushrooms, sauerkraut and cooking times as you wish.

INGREDIENTS

1/4- 1/2 cups dried Porcini mushrooms soaked in water to cover
splash of olive oil
1 onion, chopped
1k-900g sauerkraut, jars are usually 900g – drained, rinsed and squeezed
salt and ground black pepper to taste.

PROCESS

Leave mushrooms too soak at least for a couple of hours or combine water and dried mushrooms in a saucepan over low heat, simmer,and cook until tender – about 10 minutes. Drain mushrooms, reserving cooking water. Slice the mushrooms into smaller pieces if necessary.

Heat olive oil in a saucepan and over medium heat sauté onion until soft. Add mushrooms and drained sauerkraut and mix well. Add salt and pepper.

Add mushroom water, cover, and simmer until sauerkraut is soft. Add more water as it cooks if necessary. My friend cooks it for over an hour.

Draining the chicken broth

RECIPE: CHICKEN BROTH Cooked with Beetroot to provide a golden colour

The second Polish culinary addition I made in the last two days was to incorporate beetroot into the chicken broth I prepared. This technique, which I have used previously, imparts a rich golden colour to the broth, as illustrated in the photograph above.

Adding beetroot to the broth to add a rich colour

I make chicken broth the Italian way, adding a whole onion, celery sticks, carrots, whole peppercorns and salt.

My mother also added a little tomato, and perhaps this was done to colour, but I only do this when tomatoes are in season.

Italian ingredients for broth

I use a whole, free-range chicken and always enjoy eating the meat, especially with some Salsa Verde.

BRODO DI GALLINA (Chicken Broth)

Follow the above recipe, just add a whole beetroot (unpeeled).

You could also add dried porcini to this recipe:

CHICKEN WITH SAUERKRAUT, from the Carso, in north eastern Italy, near Trieste

SALSA VERDE; ITALIAN GREEN SAUCE

STUFFED BAKED MUSHROOMS with Nepitella

On this occasion, I prepared stuffed, baked mushrooms (funghi ripieni or funghi farciti in Italian) with the herb called Nepitella.

Nepitella (calamint) is not very well known in Australia, but this aromatic herb is used in the regions of Tuscany and Lazio especially for the cooking of artichokes and mushrooms and other vegetable, but also eggs (surprising!).

This version of stuffed mushrooms was prepared for a gluten and dairy-free friend and I used crumbed gluten-free crackers. When not cooking for a gluten and dairy-free friend, I use breadcrumbs (any grain) and add grated Parmesan cheese to the stuffing mixture.

Apart from the crumbed cracker biscuits, these mushrooms are stuffed with the mushroom stalks, silver beet (or spinach), parsley, garlic, nutmeg, extra virgin olive oil and the herb Nepitella that I am growing on my balcony.

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I have used Nepitella to stuff  delicate tasting fish and I also like it with pork. A couple of months ago I was in Tuscany and I enjoyed collecting Nepitella (it grows wild).  

Marjoram or thyme also go well with mushrooms. The larger leaves in the photo below are young plants of Warrigal Greens.

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Nepitella -the small round leaves.

No need for quantities in this recipe…once again, you can estimate how much of each amount you wish to use for the stuffing.

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stuffing – cracker biscuits, parsley, walnuts, garlic, nutmeg grinder.

PROCEDURE

Preheat oven at 180˚C

Wipe the mushrooms clean. Remove the stalks and finely chop them. Slice and chop the silver beet or spinach leaves. Crumb the cracker biscuits (or use breadcrumbs). .

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Heat the oil in a pan add the chopped mushroom stalks and garlic. Cook for about 2 minutes until soft and golden. Remove from the stove.

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Mix in in the silver beet or spinach, walnuts, biscuit (or bread) crumbs, a dash of extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper, herbs and nutmeg. Spoon the mixture onto the mushrooms.

Bake them until cooked throughout and browned on top. Mine were large mushrooms and I baked them for 15–20 minutes, I used baking paper with a little extra virgin olive oil.

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HERB-STUFFED MUSHROOMS: A CULINARY EXPERIMENT

STUFFED MUSHROOMS with pine nuts and fresh breadcrumbs – Funghi ripieni

FUNGHI AL FUNGHETTO (Braised mushrooms)

ITALIAN RUSSIAN SALAD, no beetroot

I was in Russia recently and I came back to Australia with a yearning to make  Italian Russian Salad. I ordered it in a restaurant in Saint Petersburg and in one in Moscow and in both cities it contained beetroot.

Italian Russian Salad has no beetroot.

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Italian Russian salad.

My mother’s Russian salad was simple and contains potatoes, carrots, french beans, peas, giardiniera or citriolini (pickled vegetables and cornichons), hard boiled eggs and egg mayonnaise.

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Vegetables for Russian salad

When my mother was still alive and still capable of cooking Russian Salad , it was something that she made often as an antipasto.

Russian Salad and Zuppa Inglese (dessert) were two dishes that were particularly popular in restaurants when we left Trieste before we came to Australia. Both continued to be presented frequently in Adelaide where we lived on special occasions or for birthdays and when we invited guests for Sunday lunch – the preferred time to have a long lunch followed by a game of cards while the house trembled to the sound of opera.

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ingredients for Russian salad.

Interestingly, not all my recipe sources include beetroot as an ingredient for Russian salad as made in many parts of the world including Russia.

The majority of the Russian recipes prefer French dressing rather than mayonnaise and some recipes contain turnip; this makes sense as root vegetables are common in Russia.

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Egg mayonnaise to dress and coat the top of Russian salad.

Variations of one particular recipe as served by the Russian nobility (probably those who spent time in France) contains a melange of flavours, either or a combination of ox tongue, lobster, ham. Truffles or cooked mushrooms also feature. Some of the French like chicken meat. Capers and anchovies in some.

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Egg Mayonnaise is the wow factor!

The Belle Époque is over: I think that keep it simple is my motto, and egg mayonnaise is the wow factor.

For recipes and more information of  INSALATA RUSSA,  MAIONAISE (mayonnaise in Italian) and other recipes with egg mayonnaise:

INSALATA RUSSA (Party time – Russian salad)

PESCE IN BIANCO (Plain fish). MAIONESE (Mayonnaise)

YEARNING FOR VITELLO TONNATO

VITELLO TONNATO

CHICKEN LAYERED WITH A TUNA AND EGG MAYONNAISE – A cold Chicken dish

POLLO ALLA MESSINESE (A cold chicken dish similar to Vitello Tonnato from Messina)

 

 

 

 

MELANZANE – eggplants – AL FUNGHETTO or TRIFOLATE

Sometimes, some recipes are just so simple that I do not bother writing about them, but then I buy a new cookbook and notice that simple recipes are what we like and want…and besides, not everybody grew up in an Italian household and they may not be familiar with this style of cooking.

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One simple way of cooking some vegetables, for example eggplants, zucchini or mushrooms is a funghetto in bianco or trifolate.

A funghetto, translates as mushroom, i.e. in the style or method of how you would cook mushrooms – simply sautéed in extra virgin olive oil with garlic and parsley.

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In bianco translates as in white, i.e. without tomatoes. Photo above is of king mushrooms cooked a funghetto.

This style of cooking is a common way to cook either of these three vegetables throughout Italy, but it is typical of the Veneto. I grew up in Trieste, so I identify with this style of cooking very much.

Once again, I will write this recipe as an Italian – no measurements. The recipe is so simple, and the photos tell the story so who needs measurements!

C8EC1013-26A8-4459-9BCD-E8C05CD26471eggplants/aubergines, cut into cubes

extra virgin olive oil, 

cloves of garlic, chopped (to taste)

chopped parsley

pepper and salt

extra virgin olive oil

Use gentle to medium heat throughout the cooking – the ingredients are not fried, they are sautéed till softened.

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Heat a splash of oil in a frypan (I like to use a frypan with a heavy base). Add the garlic and stir it around for a very short time so that it begins to soften.

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Add the eggplants and stir often until they have softened and have coloured. Add pepper and salt.

Add the chopped parsley and keep on stirring through for about 30 seconds…and I hate to say it…until it has softened.

Eat hot or cold – fabulous as a starter, side dish….as a dressing for pasta?

 

 

 

CAPONATA FROM PALERMO (made with eggplants)

You can see from the photos how simple it is to make Caponata Palermitana. Unlike its counterpart as made in Catania, this version has no peppers, but the rest of the ingredients and the preparation process for making any caponata remains largely the same.

No need for exact quantities—just like a true Italian!

For my version, I used 2 eggplants, cooking each one separately to avoid overcrowding in the frying pan. I believe in adding salt during the cooking process rather than at the end, which helps to enhance the flavors. And of course, I always opt for extra virgin olive oil to bring out the best in each ingredient. The beauty of caponata is in its flexibility, so feel free to adjust as you go!

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A good heavy saucepan is good to use.

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After the eggplants, sauté the onions and the celery (either separately or to save time sauté   them together). I used 1 large onion, 2 sticks of celery (from the centre) and some of the tender leaves. Add some salt.

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When the onions and celery have softened to your liking, add green olives and capers.

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Make a space in the centre of the saucepan, add a couple of teaspoons of sugar. Melt it and add about a quarter of a cup of red vinegar. Evaporate it.

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Make another space in the centre and add about 1/3 cup of passata.

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Mix it and cook a little . You can see that there is very little liquid left.

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Time to add the eggplants and combine all the ingredients.

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This time I will decorate the caponata with fried breadcrumbs (day old bread – mollica) toasted in a frypan with a little olive oil.

I usually decorate the caponata with toasted pine nuts or chopped blanched almonds for added texture! However, I find that serving it with toasted bread crumbs brings a pleasurable crunch without overshadowing the eggplants’ rich flavor.

The eggplants are particularly fresh and of excellent quality in summer and autumn, making them perfect for this dish.

I opted for mint instead of basil this time, bringing a refreshing taste that really complements the other flavors but at the same time letting the richness of the eggplants shine through.

I also decided to go with mint instead of basil for a refreshing twist that complements the other flavors beautifully. It’s all about finding that balance, and these choices add a lovely nuance to the caponata!

There are numerous recipes for caponate (plural of caponata). Use the search button on my blog.

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SICILIAN CAPONATA DI MELANZANE as made in Palermo (Eggplant caponata and Eggplant caponata with chocolate)

CAPONATA Catanese (from Catania) made easy with photos

CAPONATA SICILIANA (CATANESE; Caponata as made in Catania)

CAPONATA Catanese (from Catania) made easy with photos

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In my first book, Sicilian Seafood Cooking, I explore the rich flavors of Sicilian caponate (plural of caponata), dedicating an entire chapter to this iconic, Sicilian tradtional dish. One of the highlights is the Caponata Catanese that features the combination of eggplants and peppers. But the beauty of caponata lies in its versatility: you can find variations that include pumpkin, potato, artichokes and even celery (known as Caponata di Natale, a winter Christmas caponata) and a fennel caponata for those looking to try something different. Caponata from Palermo uses eggplants and no peppers and there is also a version that adds chocolate.

For the best results, remember to make your caponata at least a day ahead of time. This allows the flavors to develop and deepen.

I am writing this post for a friend to demonstrate that making caponata is not difficult and I have therefore included many photos to illustrate the process.

Caponata Catanese is made with a colourful mix of eggplants, peppers, celery, onions, chopped green olives, and capers. To make its signature agro-dolce sauce, you’ll combine a little sugar, vinegar, and a splash of passata. For an extra layer of flavor and texture, consider garnishing with toasted pine nuts (or blanched almonds) and fresh basil. Pan toasted breadcrumbs (pangrattato) tossed in a hot pan in a little olive oil is also a favourite. Sometimes I also add grated lemon peel, a little cinnamon and a pinch of sugar while the crumbs are toasting.

The quantities: I typically use about 1 kilo each of eggplants and peppers, along with 3 sticks of pale green celery, and 1 onion. You’ll also need roughly 125 grams each of capers and chopped green olives. Most Italians and true Sicilians rarely weigh their ingredients— adjust the ratios to your taste!

It is important to consider that while this recipe provides a guideline, the beauty of making caponata lies in its adaptability!

Always use high-quality extra virgin olive oil to sauté the vegetables, adding enough to prevent sticking. It is also used to preserve the caponata. The flavorful oil pairs beautifully with bread, making it a perfect accompaniment to all caponate. Any excess oil can be drained off later, but  this flavourful oil can be added when cooking other dishes – fish, meat, eggs or vegetables.

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The vegetables have different rates of cooking and you want to preserve the individual flavours as much as possible. Each vegetable is fried separately, but I sometimes I combine the celery and the onion at the same time.

A frypan with a heavy base is good to use. I am making large quantities this time to take to a family gathering, so I am using my heavy wok (Le Creuset).

You may wish to soak the cubed eggplants in some water with a little salt – this stops them from discolouring while you are cooking and especially if you are frying vegetables in batches to avoid crowding. Drain the eggplants and blot extra water: I use a tea towel.

Fry the eggplants in some extra olive oil. Drain the eggplant in a colander with a container underneath to collect any oil. In the same pan add some new oil and the oil that you have drained from the eggplants.

Fry the peppers and add a little salt. Drain them as you did the eggplants, collect the oil and add this to some new oil in the same pan.

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Fry the celery and the onion.

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When they have softened (but the celery still has some crunch) add the  green olives and capers. Salt may not be necessary for this component of the dish.

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Make a small depression in the centre of the vegetables and add about a flat tablespoon of sugar – this varies, some add more, some add less. Melt the sugar (caramelise it) and then add about 3 tablespoons of wine vinegar. Evaporate on high heat.

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Add a splash of passata. Mix through the ingredients in the pan and cook it for a few minutes.

Incorporate all of the ingredients .

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The caponata is now cooked. It needs to be placed in the fridge in a sealed container till you are ready to eat it and it will not suffer if it is made 5-7 days beforehand.

The easiest option for a topping is to decorate it with toasted pine nuts and fresh basil leaves when you are ready to present it.

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There are other recipes on my blog for caponate made with different vegetables.

PUMPKIN – Zucca (gialla) – and two Sicilian ways to cook it

CAPONATA DI NATALE (Christmas, winter caponata made with celery, almonds and sultanas)

SICILIAN CAPONATA DI MELANZANE as made in Palermo (Eggplant caponata and Eggplant caponata with chocolate)

A MOUNTAIN OF CAPONATA – two days before Christmas

FENNEL CAPONATA (Sicilian sweet and sour method for preparing certain vegetables).

CAPONATA SICILIANA (CATANESE – Caponata as made in Catania)

PUMPKIN – Zucca (gialla) – and two Sicilian ways to cook it

In Italian, the word “zucca” can refer to both an overgrown zucchini, a marrow and a pumpkin, but to avoid confusion, we call a pumpkin “zucca gialla,” (yellow pumpkin).

When it comes to Sicilian caponata, the delightful dish is commonly made with eggplants (Caponata Palermitana), and eggplant and peppers (Caponata Catanese). But the creativity doesn’t stop there! You can find variations featuring celery, fennel, and even potatoes. One other standout is the Caponata di zucca gialla, which showcases the sweet, earthy flavors of pumpkin as the star ingredient. Each version of caponata offers a unique twist on this iconic classic, highlighting the versatility of Sicilian cuisine.

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The principle for making any Sicilian caponata is the same: onion, celery, the key ingredient (eggplant or eggplant and peppers, fennel, potato etc.), capers, green olives, sometimes a splash of tomato puree, toasted pine nuts, or almonds and agro-dolce sauce –  caramelised sugar and vinegar.

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The ingredients a fried separately. Pumpkin first – sauté and then set aside.

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Sauté onion and celery. Add olives and capers.

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Add sugar, then vinegar and salt to taste. Add the fried pumpkin and toasted almonds (or pine nuts). Let rest overnight or for at least half a day.

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The other popular Sicilian way to cook pumpkin is also in an agro-dolce sauce.

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For this recipe, slices of pumpkin are also fried. I bake mine but it is not the traditional way of cooking it. The recipe is one of a number of Sicilian caponate in my book Sicilian Seafood Cooking (now out of print).

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The recipe is called Fegato con sette cannoli. To see the recipe and find out why this recipe is called Liver with seven reeds: 

Sicilian Pumpkin with vinegar, mint, sugar and cinnamon 

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CAPONATA DI NATALE (Christmas, winter caponata made with celery, almonds and sultanas)

FENNEL CAPONATA (Sicilian sweet and sour method for vegetables)

CAPONATA of Potatoes(General information and recipe for Caponata di patate)

LEMON and CEDRO – SICILIAN LEMON SALAD

While Sicilian lemon and cedro salads may seem unusual, they are popular as accompaniments, especially with grilled fish or meat in Sicily .

Citrus fruit is central to Sicilian cuisine.  This is most evident in the island’s remarkable variety of citrus, including oranges, tangerines, mandarins, lemons, cedri and limette.

Sicily’s landscape is dotted with citrus groves, especially around Syracuse, the Plain of Catania and the Conca d’Oro near Palermo.

Sicily is one of the world’s largest producers and exporters of citrus, particularly lemons. The island’s climate allows for a long growing season and ensures that different varieties of lemons can be harvested over three distinct periods each year. It’s no surprise that lemons appear everywhere in Sicilian cooking.

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Market in Syracuse

Fresh lemon juice and grated rind are used to brighten savoury dishes, enrich sweets and balance the deep flavours of Sicilian cuisine. Even the leaves are used: threaded between skewers of meat or fish, they lend a gentle, perfumed aroma.

Lemon juice is indispensable in marinades and essential for preventing discolouration in fresh produce — whether tossed through fruit salads or rubbed on artichokes as they’re cleaned.

Sicilians also use lemons generously for drinks, liqueurs, essences, jams and marmalades. Candied or preserved peel is a key ingredient in the island’s pastries and confectionary — think cassata, cannoli and festive sweet breads.

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Alongside lemons, cedro (citron) has a starring role in Sicilian patisserie. Cedri grow in Sicily and Calabria and are easily recognised: large, spherical fruit with a thick, wrinkled rind that turns from green to yellow when ripe. Their fragrance is even more intense than that of lemons. The thick peel is often candied, and both the fruit and rind are used to make a sweet paste essential in traditional pastries.

Sicily benefits enormously from lemon production, not only in cuisine but also in medicine, aromatherapy, perfumery and cleaning products. Lemon oil is prized for its antiseptic and antibacterial qualities, and citric acid remains essential in food preservation.

The flowers and leaves have ornamental value as well—the white and pale-violet blossoms are beautifully scented and remain traditional in bridal bouquets  and  inserted in button holes in men’s jackets at weddings. 

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Large citron fruit with thick rind used in Sicilian desserts

When Sicilians and other southern Italians migrated to Australia, one of the first things they planted was a lemon tree, often grafted to produce several citrus varieties on one rootstock. That instinct to plant citrus travelled with them.

While many people are familiar with Sicilian orange salads (especially those made with blood oranges, usually with fennel), fewer think to make a Sicilian lemon salad. It’s one of my favourites, particularly with grilled fish such as sardines.

The last time I made it, I served it with a pork terrine — and it was a perfect match.

Sicilian Lemon Salad Recipe

Use large, mature lemons — the rounder and more substantial the better. The generous pith is key to this salad’s unique sweetness. Salt brings out that natural sweetness, just as balsamic vinegar enhances strawberries.

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A lemon salad.

Ingredients & Method

  • Peel the lemons using a potato peeler, leaving as much pith as possible.
  • Halve the lemons and squeeze out a little juice to avoid excessive acidity.
  • Cut into quarters, then into slices or bite-sized pieces. Remove any pips.
  • Add finely chopped parsley or mint.
  • Dress with extra virgin olive oil, freshly ground pepper and salt.

Simple, refreshing and unmistakably Sicilian.

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Large lemons

LEMON MARMALADE TO USE IN SICILIAN PASTRIES. Conserva/ Marmellata di Limone (o di Cedro)