CEDRO o LIMONE? Insalata di limone. Sicilian Lemon salad.

Cedro o Limone? Insalata di Simone — my Sicilian lemon salad — came immediately to mind when I spotted these extraordinary lemons at the Alphington Melbourne Farmers’ Market.

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Mature lemons from Alphington Farmers’ Market.

Was I excited? Absolutely.

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At the Sennsational Berries stall, I found a small basket of mature, thick-skinned lemons—the kind you rarely see unless you’re in Sicily or have an old tree in your garden. For a moment I wondered whether they were cedri (citron), but I was assured they were lemons. One taste confirmed it: fragrant, juicy, and perfect for the simple salad my father used to make in Ragusa before he moved to Trieste.

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Thick-skinned lemon peeled and ready for Sicilian lemon salad.

I peeled the lemon, cut away the pith, and squeezed out just enough juice to keep the flavour balanced but not overly sharp—this salad should be refreshing, not acidic.

Fresh garlic is essential. I still had some cloves from the previous week’s market visit, but this time I also bought tender garlic shoots. I sliced them finely and added fresh mint, a little parsley, and a handful of oregano picked from my balcony plant—originally taken from my father’s garden in Adelaide. He died years ago, and using his oregano still feels like a small act of keeping him close.

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Fresh garlic shoots

The last time I bought garlic shoots was earlier this year when I was in the Maremma, Tuscany. Earlier this year in the Maremma, in our Airbnb in Castiglione della Pescaia, I cooked them with zucchini and zucchini flowers to make a dressing for pici, the local pasta. Simple ingredients, unforgettable flavours.

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Sicilian lemon salad with herbs and extra virgin olive oil.

Below, the pasta dish I cooked with the produce I purchased in Tuscany:

 

But back to the lemon salad in Melbourne.

To finish, all it needs is good extra virgin olive oil and a sprinkle of salt—the salt draws out the natural sweetness of the lemon. It’s a perfect summer dish. Think of it alongside seafood (BBQ fish is wonderful) or served with a simple roast chicken, as I did when I took the salad to a friend’s home.

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Sicilian lemon salad served alongside roast chicken.

I shared this recipe with the stallholders at the market, and they were just as excited as I was.

A simple lemon, but what a story it carries.

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I have written about lemon salad before. That post also explains what is a cedro and has a photo of a cedro from a Sicilian market.

LEMON and CEDRO – SICILIAN LEMON SALAD

I shared my recipe with the stall owners. They were excited too.

Alphington Farmers’Market:  ttps://melbourne-farmers-markets-mfm.myshopify.com/pages/alphington-farmers-market

 

LEMON MARMALADE TO USE IN SICILIAN PASTRIES. Conserva/ Marmellata di Limone (o di Cedro).

Lemon marmalade for Sicilian pastries is an essential ingredient in many traditional sweets. This lemon marmalade—known in Sicily as conserva or marmellata di limone (or made with cedro) adds the intense, aromatic citrus flavour typical of the island’s baking.

Sicily produces an impressive variety of citrus fruit, including the thick-skinned cedro (citron).

Cedri in Syracuse Market

Cedri, which resemble very large lemons, are eaten fresh in salads, but are most prized for being candied and used in cassate. Cedri are also  transformed into sweet conserve  and used in almond pastries and other desserts.

Candied/ glacé cedri

Sicilian pastries are often partly filled with lemon marmalade – Conserva or Marmellata di Limone o di Cedro (Citron).

In this blog post I have provided a recipe for making lemon Marmalade and one for Bocconotti, –  small tarts with lemon marmalade.

Recently I have fallen in love again with the pastries from Dolcetti (223 Victoria St, West Melbourne) made by Marianna Di Bartolo.

These exquisite dolcetti rekindled my desire for that strong, distinctive citrus taste found in so many Sicilian sweets.

MY RESEARCH and Sicilian Recipe Books

Researching the recipe was a process in itself. I rarely follow a single recipe strictly and usually compare multiple sources, drawing on what I know from years of reading Italian and Sicilian cookbooks. Each of the numerous times I have visited Sicily (and Italy), I have bought cookery books – not only by the greats of Sicilian cuisine and highly recognized writers and publications (Coria, Correnti, Taylor Simeti, Tasca Lanza (and more) but also by the less known ones (Maria Consoli Sardo, Di Leo, D’Alba, and many more.

The variations in recipes for this preserve, including quantities and methods, were numerous across different publications. Some directed peeling the fruit first, others boiled the peel multiple times and discarded the water, while some added sugar after boiling the pulp. The number of variations for making marmalade was comparable to those found in older Australian publications.

Among the many variations, the recipes I found most compelling were Marmellata di Limone (Maria Grammatico & Mary Taylor Simeti) and Conserva di Citru (Giuseppe Coria).

Grammatico/Taylor Simeti soak pricked lemons in water for five days, changing the water daily. Coria soaks un-pricked lemons for 24 hours and includes a cinnamon stick—something I also noticed in several older Sicilian texts.

Grammatico and Taylor Simeti recommended weighing the pulp and using 1¼ times its weight in sugar.

Coria suggested adding 2 kg of sugar for every 3 kg of pulp and 1 cup of water. I particularly liked his recipe for the addition of a cinnamon stick, which was also mentioned in many of my older Italian publications.

What I did, RECIPE

Inspired, I decided to make a homemade conserva using large, thick-pith lemons—each weighing around 700g—treating them much like cedri.

Pricked the lemons (weight 2.1kg ) and soaked them for 3 days, changing the water every day to soften the skins.

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Sliced them into medium julienne with a mandoline for texture.

Used 1 kg sugar to 2 kg pulp, added 3 cinnamon sticks, and no water.

Cooked until set (about 40 minutes), using the traditional saucer test – You know the old trick about testing jam/ marmalade by placing a little on a cold saucer, cooling it, and if adequately set it should wrinkle and feel firm.

Packed the hot conserve into sterilised jars.

Lemon and Cinnamon Marmalade

The result is an intensely flavoured, deeply lemony conserve—perfect for filling Sicilian pastries or adding bright citrus notes to desserts.

Cedro is used in Cassata and Panforte (not Sicilian).

PANFORTE again and again

PANETTONE AND PANFORTE for an ITALIAN CHRISTMAS

SICILIAN CASSATA and some background (perfect for an Australian Christmas)

SICILIAN CASSATA and MARZIPAN AT EASTER (Food and Culture in Sicily, La Trobe University)

CASSATA DECONSTRUCTED – a postmodernist take on Sicilian Cassata

 Recipe: BOCCONOTTI

Italian bocconotti are small, buttery pastries filled with jam. In Sicily they are filled with citron (cedro) marmalade.

The tarts can be left open-faced or covered with slightly smaller pastry circles to create small lids, placed in the centre, but leaving a gap and not reaching the edges.

Ingredients
  • 500 g plain flour
  • 250 g sugar
  • 150 g unsalted butter (traditional is lard for pastries)
  • 2 eggs + 1 yolk
  • Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
  • 1 tsp vanilla extract or seeds of ½ vanilla bean
  • 2–3 tbsp white wine (dry)
  • 400 g marmellata – use the lemon marmalade
  • Method
Make the pastry (pasta frolla)
  • In a large bowl, mix the flour and sugar.
  • Rub in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Don’t overwork the pastry.
  • Add the eggs, yolk, lemon zest, vanilla, and 2 tablespoons of white wine.
  • Work the dough quickly until it comes together—add the extra tablespoon of wine only if needed.
  • Shape into a ball, flatten slightly, wrap, and refrigerate for 1 hour.
  • Use small tartlet tins or mini-muffin tins. Grease lightly with butter.
  • Roll the pastry to about 3–4 mm thickness. Cut circles large enough to line the moulds.
  • Press the dough gently into each mould. and fill generously with the marmalade but leave some space at the top
  • Preheat the oven to 180°C (fan 170°C). Bake for 20–25 minutes, until pale golden.
  • Cool in the tins for 10 minutes, then transfer to a rack.