ST JOSEPH’S DAY IN SICILY: SFINCI AND CRISPEDDI DI RISU

Saint Joseph’s Day in Sicily (Festa di San Giuseppe) is celebrated on 19 March with religious traditions, elaborate displays of food and an abundance of sweets, particularly sfinci and crispeddi di risu (Sicilian rice fritters).

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A statue of Saint Joseph, a common sight in Churches

Throughout Italy, the feast also coincides with Father’s Day (La Festa del Papà), honouring Saint Joseph as the father figure of the Holy Family.

In southern Italy, saints’ name days have traditionally held particular significance. My father, who was born in Ragusa but lived in Trieste, always received telephone calls from his relatives in Sicily wishing him auguri on 19 March.

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Saint Joseph, Spring and Sicilian Food Traditions

Saint Joseph, traditionally regarded as a humble carpenter who cared for Mary and Jesus, is the patron saint of fathers, workers, carpenters and the poor. Interestingly, he is also associated with pastry cooks.

The connection becomes clearer when we consider the food traditions surrounding his feast day in Sicily.

Although Saint Joseph’s Day falls during Lent, traditionally a period of fasting and abstinence, it also coincides with the approach of spring and the renewal of agricultural life.

Long before Christianity, Mediterranean communities celebrated the changing seasons with rituals associated with fertility, regeneration and abundance.

Grains, seeds and legumes symbolised new life, and these ancient associations remain evident in Sicilian celebrations.

La Tavola di San Giuseppe: Saint Joseph’s Table

In many Sicilian communities, elaborate food displays known as La Tavola di San Giuseppe (Saint Joseph’s Table) are prepared to celebrate the feast.

Festive breads in a La Tavola di San Giuseppe in southern Sicily

Wheat (grains, seeds and legumes) were considered the metaphorical seeds of life and through germination and regeneration they invoke the powers of fertility. Decorative breads, often shaped into symbolic forms are sprinkled with seeds and occupy a prominent position alongside vegetables, legumes and traditional sweets.

Historically, these tables expressed gratitude for the harvest and provided food for the poor. Today, they continue to represent generosity, hospitality and community.

Sfinci and Crispeddi di Risu: Traditional Sicilian Sweets

Fried sweets are an essential part of Saint Joseph’s Day celebrations in Sicily.

Two particularly popular varieties are sfinci, made primarily with flour, and crispeddi di risu, prepared with cooked rice.

As with so many Sicilian dishes, recipes vary considerably between regions, towns and families.

Sfinci di San Giuseppe are especially associated with western Sicily, particularly Palermo, where they are often filled or topped with sweetened ricotta cream.

Simpler versions of sfinci are also prepared elsewhere on the island, sometimes with custard or without any filling.

Crispeddi di risu, also known as zeppole di riso, are particularly popular in eastern Sicily, including Messina, Catania and Syracuse.

These golden rice fritters are traditionally flavoured with citrus zest and finished with honey or sugar and cinnamon.

Two Traditional Sicilian Rice Fritter Recipes

I have selected two recipes from respected Sicilian cookbooks.

The first comes from Maria Consoli Sardo’s Cucina Nostra (1978), a book I particularly appreciate for its uncomplicated, traditional recipes.

Her preparations often reflect cucina povera, the resourceful cooking associated with rural Sicilian households, where inexpensive ingredients were transformed into satisfying dishes.

The second recipe is adapted from Giuseppe Coria’s Profumi di Sicilia: Il Libro della Cucina Siciliana.

Both recipes use rice, milk and flour, but their methods differ. The first contains no yeast, while the second relies on yeast to produce a lighter fritter.

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The Crispeddi di risu, traditional Sicilian rice fritters I made
Recipe 1: Sfinci di Risu – Traditional Sicilian Rice Fritters

Adapted from Maria Consoli Sardo, Cucina Nostra (1978)

This is a particularly simple preparation, requiring only a few ingredients. The cooked rice rests overnight before being combined with flour, shaped into batons and fried.

Ingredients

  • 200 g Arborio rice
  • 500 ml water
  • 500 ml milk
  • 200 g plain flour
  • A pinch of salt
  • Lard or extra virgin olive oil for frying
  • Sugar and ground cinnamon for serving

My variation: Chestnut honey and cinnamon instead of sugar.

Method

  1. Bring the water to the boil, add a pinch of salt and the rice.
  2. Cook until the rice is approximately halfway done, then add the milk.
  3. Continue cooking gently, stirring occasionally, until the rice is tender and has absorbed most of the liquid. The consistency should resemble a thick risotto.
  4. Transfer the cooked rice to a bowl, allow it to cool and refrigerate for approximately 24 hours.
  5. Add the flour and mix thoroughly to form a firm mixture.
  6. Spread the mixture onto a lightly floured work surface and leave it to rest for approximately two hours.
  7. Cut into short batons.
  8. Heat the frying fat in a deep pan and fry the batons in batches until golden and crisp.
  9. Drain on absorbent paper.
  10. Sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon while still warm.

My Variation: Honey and Cinnamon

I fried my sfinci di risu in extra virgin olive oil rather than lard.

Instead of the traditional sugar coating, I drizzled them with chestnut honey and sprinkled them with cinnamon.

I usually have Sicilian orange blossom honey in my pantry, but I had run out. The chestnut honey, with its distinctive, slightly bitter flavour, proved an excellent alternative.

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My jar of Chestnut Honey
Recipe 2: Crispeddi di Risu – Sicilian Rice Fritters with Yeast

Adapted from Giuseppe Coria, Profumi di Sicilia: Il Libro della Cucina Siciliana

Giuseppe Coria’s recipe includes yeast and grated citrus zest, producing fragrant rice fritters with a different texture from the previous version.

Judging by the quantities, Signor Coria must have been accustomed to cooking for large numbers!

The original recipe makes a substantial batch, so reduce the quantities if necessary.

Ingredients

  • 1 kg rice
  • 1 litre milk
  • 1 litre boiling water
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • 2 tablespoons sugar
  • 500 g plain flour
  • 150 g fresh yeast, dissolved in ½ cup lukewarm water (see note)
  • Finely grated zest of 2 oranges
  • Finely grated zest of 2 lemons
  • Oil for deep-frying
  • Honey and ground cinnamon for serving

Note: The quantity of fresh yeast is unusually high by modern standards. It is reproduced from the original recipe and is worth checking before preparation. If using dried yeast, adjust the quantity appropriately rather than substituting it directly.

Method

  1. Combine the milk and water in a large saucepan. Add the salt, sugar and rice.
  2. Bring to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer gently, stirring occasionally.
  3. Continue cooking until the rice is tender and has absorbed the liquid, resembling a thick risotto.
  4. Allow the mixture to cool until lukewarm.
  5. Stir in the flour, dissolved yeast and grated citrus zest.
  6. Mix thoroughly, cover and leave to rise for approximately 2–4 hours.
  7. Heat the oil in a deep frying pan.
  8. Using a spoon, shape portions of the rice mixture and carefully slide them into the hot oil.
  9. Fry in batches until golden.
  10. Drain briefly on absorbent paper.
  11. Drizzle with honey and sprinkle with cinnamon.

Serve warm.

A Sicilian Tradition Worth Preserving

Saint Joseph’s Day is another example of how Sicilian food traditions connect religious celebrations with much older agricultural customs.

The decorative breads, communal tables and simple fried sweets express generosity, renewal and the importance of sharing food.

Whether called sfinci di risu, crispeddi or zeppole di riso, these traditional fritters demonstrate the ingenuity of Sicilian cooking: a handful of everyday ingredients transformed into something special.

Italy double dips and combines this ancient and religious tradition of Saint Joseph (19 March) with Father’s Day – La Festa del Papà – the feast (celebration) for father, the event imported from America in the early 20th century. In the USA it is held on the third Sunday of June.

FESTA DI SAN GIUSEPPE (SAINT JOSEPH) and sweets called Sfinci di San Giuseppe

SAINT JOSEPH’S FEAST DAY (La Festa di San Giuseppe) 19 March

ZEPPOLE, FRIED SWEETS

What is it about zeppole that has everybody drooling?

Lidia, Marianna’s mother from Dolcetti, had customers lining up for hers at the Sweets Festival held recently at the Immigration Museum.

She began mixing her first batch of dough with ricotta – this is very traditional when making the sweet version of zeppole. The next batch had fennel seeds and a pinch of chilli; what was interesting about hers is that even this batch was rolled in caster sugar – I love that mix of savoury with the sweet that Sicilians are particularly proud of. By the end of the day someone was sent out to buy more flour and the zeppole were just plain dough rolled in castor sugar infused with vanilla bean and still the customers lined up and were prepared to wait for their order.

Dolcetti stall – frying zeppole at Immigration Museum Sweets Festival

Now the funny thing about zeppole is that they are called by different names in various parts of Sicily – sfinci, sfinci di San Giuseppe, sfingi, crispeddi, sfincia: Whatever they are called, they are traditionally eaten at the feast of Saint Joseph – who looks after the poor, and San Martino – he looks after wine. Some Sicilian variations include a ricotta filling (rather than in the mixture).

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Different versions of these fritters are found all over Italy. In Trieste and Venice they are called frittole – this version has sultanas (soaked in rum beforehand) and rolled in cinnamon in the castor sugar. When the Triestini side of my family made them, they also added lemon or orange peel to the mixture – these are traditional at the time of Carnevale. In Naples they call theirs graffe. Older people living in Adelaide may remember Asio from Asio’s Restaurant. He was from Tuscany and he called his frati. I knew Asio when I was a child and he used to make these for my family.

The traditional dough is basically a sloppy bread dough made with yeast and warm water with a little sugar and a little salt.

*You could cheat and use self raising flour and no yeast. They taste pretty good but remember that although you are making the easy version, they will not be traditional.

INGREDIENTS
plain flour, 3 cups
warm water, 2 cups (or more- the dough should be soft)
eggs, 3
yeast, 2 g active dry yeast,3 g compressed fresh yeast
salt , ½  teaspoon
sugar, 1 tablespoon
extra virgin olive oil, 1-2 tablespoons added to the dough
oil for frying – enough so that the zeppole to float (I always use olive, some use vegetable oil)
salted anchovies to taste ( 5-10, chopped)
fennel seeds, 1 teaspoon
salt and pepper – sprinkled on top at the end.
PROCESSES
Mix 1 cup of flour with ½ -¾ cup of warm water, sugar and the yeast. Add more water if necessary to make a sloppy dough.
Cover it and leave to rise in a warm place for about 45- 90 mins – the dough should be spongy and double in size. Add the rest of the ingredients except for the anchovies and the fennel seeds. Mix well; the mixture should be soft and pliable. Add the anchovies and the fennel seeds and gently mix through.
Heat frying oil, drop into the oil one tablespoon full of dough (cook only a few per time – do not over crowd the pan). To see if the oil is hot enough, test it by dropping small bits of dough into it – the dough should begin to cook and begin to gently bounce around. Turn the zeppole once to fry on both sides – they should be golden brown when cooked.
Sprinkle with a little pepper and salt.

 

Zeppole di san Giuseppe:

 

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