FISH STUDDED WITH FLAVOURS

Fish cutlets (or portions) studded with flavours (herbs and spices) is something that I make quite often and is a versatile dish that keeps on evolving. I began this recipe by inserting Sicilian flavours – cinnamon, cloves, lemon peel, garlic, fennel, oregano, parsley, and degalzing the fish with dry Marsala and then the recipe evolved from there.

The beauty of this dish is its adaptability—I can’t recall ever making it the same way twice! Each time I prepare it, I change the flavours I use to insert into the fish and it becomes a new taste sensation each time. Whether it’s herbs, different spices, or different types of liquids to deglaze, the possibilities are endless.

For instance, I love using herbs, which vary depending on the season. And when it comes to deglazing the pan, I  use anything from a splash of wine (or other alcohol), to stock . And the result is a dish that feels new with every iteration.

There is a recipe for this style of cooking in my book Sicilian Seafood Cooking –  Tunnu Ammuttunatu (Sicilian) or Pesce Staccato e con Marsala (Italian) and in English, it translates to Tuna Studded with Flavours and Braised in Marsala.

Over the years, I’ve made subtle adjustments to the recipe, fine-tuning it to match my evolving tastes, the people I am feeding and the ingredients available.

I also have another related recipe in this blog where I used Trevally as the fish: it is a perfect example of how adaptable this method can be.

Recently, I experimented with mackerel, adding capers to deglaze the pan (some of my guests do not drink alcohol), but the capers added an extra layer of briny taste. Pretty good and different again.

Here’s the original recipe from my book, Sicilian Seafood Cooking:

Tunnu ammuttunatu
Pesce steccato e con marsala
Fish, studded with flavours and braised in marsala

I like to use a whole fillet of fish, which I estimate will feed no more than
four people when cut into portions. For more people, I buy two fillets.

I like to serve this very pink in the centre, but it will not suffer if it is cooked longer, as done in Sicily. Long whole fillets will not cook evenly and can be adventageous as it provides well cooked and rare tuna eaters a choice.

Individual portions of large fish or tuna can also be studded and cooked in this manner.

Stud the flesh with one or more flavours – garlic (halved), cloves, a
cinnamon stick (broken into small pieces) – and a herb, (mint, rosemary
or oregano).

Below, various cuts of tuna in an open Sicilian market in Acireale, north of Catania.

Ingredients

1-1.2kg tuna fillet
1 cup dry marsala

flavourings (see intro)
1/2 to1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
3 fresh bay leaves
mint leaves for serving

Processes

Use a knife with a long thin blade and make a number of deep, regularly
spaced slits in the fillet. Insert flavourings (see above) into each slit. When
you cut the fillet into portions, each portion should have four slits.

Heat oil in a pan and seal the fish on all sides. Add marsala and bay
leaves and reduce slightly, cover and braise over low heat. Add more
marsala (or water) if the dish is drying out.

A fillet of four portions cooks in about 15–20 minutes. To test, insert a metal skewer into the centre – if it is done the skewer will be just warm to the touch. If it feels cool, cook
for a little longer.

Place the fish on a large platter, pour over the sauce and scatter with mint.

And if you’re interested in exploring the Trevally version, here’s the link to the full recipe on my blog:

FISH STUDDED WITH SICILIAN FLAVOURS

FISH STUDDED WITH SICILIAN FLAVOURS

The fish steak, sliced vertically from a whole Trevally, offers a perfect opportunity to infuse distinct, aromatic flavours into each of the four sections of the cutlet. On this occasion, I’ve chosen fennel, cloves, garlic, and mint, but the strength of this recipe lies in its flexibility.

I like to mix and match herbs and spices—rosemary, cinnamon, thyme, parsley or sage or even a touch of lemon peel can change the entire vibe.

I was pleasantly surprised to find the Trevally cut into steaks, as it’s usually available whole or as fillets. This growing trend of partitioning fish into different cuts, just like meat, is exciting and lends itself to a broader range of cooking styles. Silver Trevally, also known as White Trevally, has a firm, dense texture when cooked, making it ideal for this preparation. It does need a little care, as it can dry out if overcooked. The addition of a small amount of liquid, like a splash of white wine or Sicilian Marsala Fine (semisecco/semi dry), is key to keeping it moist and succulent.

In other variations, I’ve swapped the Marsala for some freshly squeezed orange juice with a hint of zest, or dry vermouth and when I’m feeling adventurous and pairing it with tarragon – dragoncello – little dragon —a herb not typically found in Southern Italy but often used up North. 

For a more Sicilian touch, sage (salvia) adds an earthy note, though it’s not as widely used in the region’s cuisine especially with fish. (In fact, it is rarely used with fish in other cuisines and I can only think of sage being used with pan fried trout – French)

Trevally is caught in the estuaries and coastal waters of southern Australia, with the majority of the commercial catch coming from New South Wales and eastern Victoria. It’s a wonderfully versatile fish, and I’ve also tried this technique with wild-caught Barramundi shoulders, which gives a slightly richer flavour profile.

And with a tuna fillet, in this case from Albacore Tuna:

Not much detail is needed in this recipe – the photos tell the story.

Recipe:

Prepare the Fish: Using a thin, sharp knife, make four evenly spaced slits along the length of each fish steak. You’re aiming for deep pockets, not cuts all the way through.

Stuff the Fish: Into each slit, insert a clove of garlic and three complementary flavourings. Choose from fennel, cloves, mint, rosemary, a small piece of cinnamon stick, or lemon peel. The key is variety—each section should bring something different to the table.

Sear the Fish: Heat a generous amount of extra virgin olive oil in a large frying pan that can fit the fish in a single layer. Season the fish with salt and pepper on both sides, then place it in the pan. Sauté until the fish is golden on one side, then turn and cook the other side.

Deglaze and Finish: Add about half a cup of white wine or Sicilian Marsala Fine (or any other liquid of your choice), allowing the liquid to evaporate and leave the fish sizzling in the pan. The Marsala will enrich the sauce, while the wine adds a light, crisp finish. I sometimes add Ricard or Pernod with a bit of water to add a fennel taste.

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Above  – One Fish, One Chef, presentation by Josh Niland, and part of Melbourne Good Food Month. Josh butchered a large fish, head to tail  – that is correct, almost every part of the fish, innards as well are edible. (Mr Niland, Fish Butchery) 
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A bit of fish butchery at a fish market in Sicily where butchery has been going on for  centuries.
Swordfish display in LxRm5