I use the tender hearts of Italian bitter greens — radicchio, chicory (cicoria), and curly endive (indivia riccia) to make a leaf salad that’s cleansing, refreshing, and slightly peppery.
While these vegetables are at their peak in winter, I am using them well into spring.
Bitter greens are a broad, diverse family of dark, leafy vegetables and cruciferous plants known for their assertive flavour. As well as the vegetables mentioned above, think cime di rapa, rocket (arugula), kale, cavolo nero, mustard greens, and watercress. Each has its own flavour and character.
In Italy, bitterness is appreciated and celebrated. Italians have a profound appreciation for sharp, bracing flavours – from consuming artichokes and the extensive range of bitter-leaf-based contorni (side dishes) and primi (pasta, risotto and soups) that showcase the depth of this taste in their cuisine. There is the enjoyment of downing espresso coffee and savouring the complex herbal flavours of amari (the iconic range of bitter-sweet aperitivi and digestivi).
“L’amaro è un gusto da apprezzare.” (Bitterness is a taste to be appreciated.)
Bitter greens do more than add flavour and have long been prized for their medicinal qualities. They stimulate the digestive system, activating enzymes and encouraging bile production – the age-old remedy for sluggish digestion. But beyond their health benefits, bitterness plays an important culinary role: it cuts through richness, brings balance to a dish, and pairs beautifully with bold or fatty ingredients.
When preparing these greens, I usually set aside the tougher outer leaves for cooking and reserve only the pale, tender, subtly bitter leaves from the inner hearts for raw salads.
The tougher outer leaves go well cooked: sautéed with olive oil and garlic, stirred into brothy soups, or wilted gently with legumes, they lend a slightly bitter edge that deepens the flavour of everything around them. Chicory or curly endive, either on their own or mixed, are excellent paired with beans – cannellini, borlotti, or even lentils. I pan-fry the greens in olive oil, flavour them with garlic and often add a couple of chili peppers or a few anchovy fillets for depth of flavour. The result is a rustic, homely and satisfying dish that makes a good entrée, contorno (side) or a simple main. It is also good when folded into a bowl of soup.
The inner, pale, tender leaves have visually attractive vibrant leaves. They offer crunch without overpowering intensity.
Use inner leaves from:
1 small head of radicchio, 1 small bunch of cicoria and 1 small head of curly endive (indivia riccia).
I have at times replaced one of the vegetables with witlof , rocket or watercress. I like frilly endive, dandelion leaves also, and puntarelle… when I can get them.
Preparing Bitter Greens for Salad
- Trim & Clean
Remove any tough or damaged outer leaves—save these for cooking. Trim the stem end just enough to loosen the head without it falling apart. - Separate Tender Leaves
Gently pull apart the pale, inner leaves—these are the most delicate and best for salad. - Soak & Rinse
Soak the leaves in cold water for 5–10 minutes to remove grit and revive their crispness. Rinse well. - Dry Thoroughly
Use a salad spinner or clean towel to dry leaves hold dressing better and keep the salad vibrant. - Optional: store in the fridge
For extra crunch leave the washed leaves in the fridge for at least 30 minutes.
I play around with salads. Here are some Optional Additions that works well with these bitter greens:
- Fresh Fruit: Orange segments, firm persimmon (vanilla type), pear, or apple slices. These add sweetness to balance the bitterness.
- Nuts: Toasted walnuts or pine nuts bring crunch and a rich, nutty depth.
- Cheese: Shavings of Parmesan or crumbled Gorgonzola add creaminess and umami.
- Protein: A few good quality anchovy fillets, soft-boiled or hard boiled eggs, grilled chicken, or white beans make it more substantial.
- Extra Colour and Flavour: Thinly sliced fennel, roasted beetroot, or edible flowers like nasturtiums elevate both presentation and taste.
I use a simple dressing – extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice or /and good quality wine or sherry vinegar, sea salt, cracked pepper.
Other recipes and information:
BITTER GREENS and AMARI (Aperitivi and Digestivi)
CICORIA: Chicory; Bitter Green
CICORIA and Puntarelle (Chicory)
