Tag: Braised Italian green vegetables

ITALIAN BITTER LEAF SALAD

I use the tender hearts of Italian bitter greens — radicchio, chicory (cicoria), and curly endive (indivia riccia) to make a leaf salad that’s cleansing, refreshing, and slightly peppery.

While these vegetables are at their peak in winter, I am using them well into spring.

Bitter greens are a broad, diverse family of dark, leafy vegetables and cruciferous plants known for their assertive flavour. As well as the vegetables mentioned above, think cime di rapa, rocket (arugula), kale, cavolo nero, mustard greens, and watercress. Each has its own flavour and character.

In Italy, bitterness is appreciated and celebrated. Italians have a profound appreciation for sharp, bracing flavours – from consuming artichokes  and the extensive range of bitter-leaf-based contorni (side dishes) and primi (pasta, risotto and soups) that showcase the depth of this taste in their cuisine. There is the enjoyment of downing espresso coffee and savouring the complex herbal flavours of amari (the iconic range of bitter-sweet aperitivi and digestivi).

“L’amaro è un gusto da apprezzare.” (Bitterness is a taste to be appreciated.)

Bitter greens do more than add flavour and have long been prized for their medicinal qualities. They stimulate the digestive system, activating enzymes and encouraging bile production – the age-old remedy for sluggish digestion. But beyond their health benefits, bitterness plays an important culinary role: it cuts through richness, brings balance to a dish, and pairs beautifully with bold or fatty ingredients.

When preparing these greens, I usually set aside the tougher outer leaves for cooking and reserve only the pale, tender, subtly bitter leaves from the inner hearts for raw salads.

The tougher outer leaves go well cooked: sautéed with olive oil and garlic, stirred into brothy soups, or wilted gently with legumes, they lend a slightly bitter edge that deepens the flavour of everything around them. Chicory or curly endive, either on their own or mixed, are excellent paired with beans  – cannellini, borlotti, or even lentils. I pan-fry the greens in olive oil, flavour them with garlic and often add a couple of chili peppers or a few anchovy fillets for depth of flavour. The result is a rustic, homely and satisfying dish that makes a good entrée, contorno (side) or a simple main. It is also good when folded into a bowl of soup.

The inner, pale, tender leaves have visually attractive vibrant leaves. They offer crunch without overpowering intensity.

Use inner leaves from:

1 small head of radicchio, 1 small bunch of cicoria and 1 small head of curly endive (indivia riccia).

I have at times replaced one of the vegetables with witlof , rocket or watercress. I like frilly endive, dandelion leaves also, and puntarelle… when I can get them.

Preparing Bitter Greens for Salad

  • Trim & Clean
    Remove any tough or damaged outer leaves—save these for cooking. Trim the stem end just enough to loosen the head without it falling apart.
  • Separate Tender Leaves
    Gently pull apart the pale, inner leaves—these are the most delicate and best for salad.
  • Soak & Rinse
    Soak the leaves in cold water for 5–10 minutes to remove grit and revive their crispness. Rinse well.
  • Dry Thoroughly
    Use a salad spinner or clean towel to dry leaves hold dressing better and keep the salad vibrant.
  • Optional: store in the fridge
    For extra crunch leave the washed leaves in the fridge for at least 30 minutes.

I play around with salads. Here are some Optional Additions that works well with these bitter greens:

  • Fresh Fruit: Orange segments, firm persimmon (vanilla type), pear, or apple slices. These add sweetness to balance the bitterness.
  • Nuts: Toasted walnuts or pine nuts bring crunch and a rich, nutty depth.
  • Cheese: Shavings of Parmesan or crumbled Gorgonzola add creaminess and umami.
  • Protein: A few good quality anchovy fillets, soft-boiled  or hard boiled eggs, grilled chicken, or white beans make it more substantial.
  • Extra Colour and Flavour: Thinly sliced fennel, roasted beetroot, or edible flowers like nasturtiums elevate both presentation and taste.

I use a simple dressing – extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice or /and good quality wine or sherry vinegar, sea salt, cracked pepper.

Other recipes and information:

BITTER GREENS and AMARI (Aperitivi and Digestivi)

CICORIA: Chicory; Bitter Green

CICORIA and Puntarelle (Chicory)

 

N’ZALATA VIRDI in Sicilian – INSALATA VERDE in Italian (Green leaf salad)

In my fridge you will always find some green vegetables that can be used in salads. I grow herbs on my balcony but regretfully do not have room for salad greens. My history of eating salads goes back a long way.

salad different lettucesDSC_0084_2

The best salads that I ate as a child in Italy were made from green leaves. In Trieste, it was made with very young leaves of different types of radicchi (plural of radicchio) especially the radicchio biondo triestino, together with mataviltz (the lamb’s lettuce) and rucola (aurugola/rocket/roquette). These were sold by the handful in the Trieste market and wrapped in cones of brown paper.

My father grew these greens in Australia, a friend having smuggled seeds inside of his coat lining on one of his trips back from Trieste. You will be pleased to know that these seeds are now widely available in Australia.

When I used to visit Sicily as a child we talked about the different green leaves we ate in Trieste, but the relatives were not familiar with these.

They ate salads made from young, wild cicoria (chicory) or cicorino (the ino signifying small) and indivia (escarole/endives), Roman Batavia, curly endive and frisee lettuces were also popular – these lettuces are available in Australia. Roman Batavia has frilly leaves – it is crunchy and maintains its crispness. I have also seen it labelled as Roman lettuce, and this is confusing because cos is often called by this name. Frisee has a spiky and firm leaf, which is mildly bitter – it is a form of chicory.

In Ragusa where my father’s family come from, the inside leaves of green cabbage are torn into bite-sized pieces and dressed with oil, salt, pepper and lemon. I did not experience this elsewhere in Sicily.

I making the most of the wonderful winter greens and use their centre in salads and braise their outer leaves (first wilted/ steamed in a little water then tossed in extra virgin olive oil, garlic, salt and chilli).

Photographer Graeme Gillies, food stylist Fiona Rigg. Both worked on my book, Sicilian Seafood Cooking

INGREDIENTS and PROCESSES

Select a variety of greens. Combine sweet, subtle, or bitter flavours, and different textures – the tender light green leaves found in the centre of chicory, or endives and escarole, different types of lettuces, the young, pale-green stalks found in the centre of celery. I do use fennel as well.

I like to include young Nasturtium leaves and flowers, (which are around at this time of year) or watercress (crescione d’acqua), but once again, this is not traditional, although my father told me that the women in Sicily who took their washing to the river ate watercress – this is another instance of Sicilians enjoying and using what the land provides.

A single leaf salad made with chicory (slightly bitter taste) and slices of sweet oranges are a good alliance and an acceptable modern Sicilian combination.

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DRESSING, VINAIGRETTE

Toss the salad when ready to serve with a dressing made of quality extra virgin olive oil, wine vinegar, salt and pepper (one-third vinegar, two-thirds oil).

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